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Being a Louisiana native, experiencing Mardi Gras is something that I was able to check off of my bucket list many times over the years.
If attending Mardi Gras was number one on my list of all-time greatest parties, then experiencing Rio’s Carnivale was a close second.
The thought of attending Carnivale in Rio was something that had intrigued me for many years. I had been to Rio before and although I had navigated the city without incident, I must admit, I understood that it wasn’t the safest of places, so trying to find a hotel room and trying to figure out how the parades worked scared me off.
Luckily, I found myself in the position to be able to travel to Rio for work during Carnivale and actually be there for a whole forty-eight hours! The hotel room was secured, but I still had a lot of work to do to figure out how to go to the parades and festivities. And where were they by the way?
After phone calls to a friend with contacts in the city and a lot of googling, I learned a lot. Mainly that Carnival’s festivities differ a bit from Mardi Gras.
A friend explained that she had visited before and took part in the street parties that navigated the roadways in many of the neighborhoods. She described the costumes that the participants wore (a lot of tu-tus and bikini tops) and how crowded the areas could become thus necessitating many security measures. It was definitely something I probably would not want to do alone. She had never, however, gone to the Sambadrome to see the parades that roll through nightly.
Hmmm. Costumes needed to be packed and I was informed that the hotel would probably have a schedule for the street parties. But…this was not what I envisioned.
The Sambadrome…this was what I wanted to do! How could I say I had been to Rio’s Carnivale and not get to truly experience it in the Sambadrome? It did not take long to find a few websites advertising tickets for the parades. And yes…we were arriving Saturday morning and there were still tickets for that night’s festivities in the Sambadrome! Now, I just had to find friends to join me or would I be comfortable going by myself?
Reaching out to my coworkers, I found that a couple were excited to accompany me. We purchased tickets for Saturday night and everything was in place for a fun time.
And then I got the text.
Another of my coworkers, who originally hails from Rio, received a call from a friend. Did she or anyone else want to be a part of the Santa Cruz Samba school in the parade Saturday night?
Even though we had just purchased our tickets to watch the parade, we decided that this was an opportunity that we could not pass up! We could actually be IN the parade! This was truly the opportunity of a lifetime!
Quickly forwarding our costume sizes, we then found that we had to learn a song for our debut in the Sambadrome!
In Portuguese!
The day before the parade!
We embraced the challenge and wrote the song out phonetically…a bit of nonsensical jargon that only we could understand and any Brazilian would laugh at! Practicing all night, on our flight to Rio…it was quite comical!
Upon our arrival in Rio de Janeiro, we were quite exhausted but nevertheless excited. After finding a way to get our costumes, which were located an hour away, my Brazilian friend called us down into the lobby of the hotel to give us the huge bags with what we would be wearing that night.
Next on the list…finding the hotel where our tickets were to be picked up. We had ordered through a company called Bookers International. The website was easy to use and their representatives were extremely friendly and helpful when I reached out with the many questions that I had. Their setup at the Atlantic Hotel Copacabana was in a meeting room adjacent to the lobby and after a short wait outside, we were ushered in and our ticket packet was handed over to us.
Now, we only had a short time to get money (not easy when many of the ATMs were boarded up) and have dinner!
Getting dressed was thrilling! This was really happening and when we arrived in the lobby, all eyes were on us! There were many people who wanted to take pictures with us! Later, I would think back on this time and our costumes. They were interesting, but quite bulky…in fact, I think we looked a bit like green and white power rangers! When I finally saw some of the other costumes in the Sambadrome, I realized how much better they could have been!
Getting to the Sambadrome was not an easy feat. After investigating shuttle options, my friend decided that we would take Uber. Only because she was a native speaker was the reason that I agreed, as I had read that private cars were not allowed on the roadways near the Sambadrome. She was convinced, however, that we could get close enough.
The traffic was heavy and we barely fit inside the car with our unwieldy outfits. True to what I had learned, traffic was detoured a few blocks from the venue. Pulling over to the curb, we gathered our headdresses and made our way down the road, eyeing the lighted stadium in the distance.
The streets were wet from an earlier rainfall and the cheap shoes given to us made it hard to walk comfortably, each step causing distress on our soles. Finally, however, the roar of the crowd became deafening and we made our way into the ring. Walking along the outer reaches, we found the area where the many samba schools and floats were lined up.
Weaving our way around elegantly bedecked participants and huge, colorful floats, we walked for what seemed like miles. Even though we were running late, it was too hard not to lag behind and take these one-of-a-kind photos of the calm before the storm. Realizing that we had gone the wrong way, we finally turned in the opposite direction before finally spotting others dressed like us! The Santa Cruz Samba School!
Our entrance into the Sambadrome had been scheduled for eleven o’clock, however, the early rainstorms that had plagued the city had caused some major delays. We had a couple of drinks. We waited in line for the bathroom. We sat on the curb. We took a walk. We made friends. That eleven o’clock march into the Sambadrome finally turned into one o’clock in the morning. And by this time, the rain had returned.
Excitement was high as we linked arms with those marching beside us. Lining up in rows of twelve, we finally moved forward entering the amazing Sambadrome.
The crowds roared and our song played.
Santa Cruz de Barbalha-Um Conto Popular No Cariri Cearense
Saudade tenho do meu Cariri
Minha terra onde nasci
E deixei meu coração
O verde admirava da varanda
Era doce minha lida
O suor do meu sertão
Êh muié guerreira
Batiza o meu lugar
A bênção a Padim Padi Ciço
Vi capitão Virgulino
Que se chamou Lampião
Maria Bunita da saia rendada
Me ensina menina prendada
A cantar como o Rei do Baião
Oh moça solteira
Oh pau da bandeira iaiá
Oh moça solteira
Pede ao santo padroeiro
Um sinhô pra ser seu par
Onde versa o trovador
Nasce a fé e alegria
No Araripe o soldadinho
Anuncia um novo dia
Nos altares eu pedi ao pai
E na fonte agradeci em paz
Lava a minha alma e cura minha dor
No peito a Santa Cruz do amor
Vou voltar
Santo Antônio de Barbalha
Ilumine essa batalha
Minha gente pede ao céu
Vou voltar
Santo Antônio de Barbalha
Ceará tem paraíso em forma de cordel
Onde plantei o meu valor
Colhi meus ideais
Vai ressoar o meu tambor
A voz que ecoa dos canaviais
Having been told that we were under the scrutiny of the judges, stationed along the length of the venue, we needed to dance, sing and smile for the entire duration. We started out strong and it was quite overwhelming to see the bystanders lining the route. They were all having a great time drinking, dancing and taking our photos!
As thrilling as it was, it was quite exhausting! Singing the same song over and over and continually dancing…in the light rain…with shoes that were falling apart…halfway through, I wondered if anyone would notice if I jumped the barrier and joined the revelers! Continual movement for over an hour and for almost half a mile, for each school to complete their performance is a LONG time!
Finally, reaching the end of the route, we mingled with the other participants in the Praça da Apoteose (Apotheosis Square), each removing as much of our costumes as we could and graciously accepting water from the volunteers assigned to make sure that we were all hydrated.
Following my friend, we made our way to our assigned seats, grabbing a beer and some snacks along the way. Watching the parade from this viewpoint gave us a whole different perspective and as I watched each of the remaining schools, I learned that there were many aspects that each school was being judged on.
First and foremost, each school had between sixty-five and seventy-five minutes to make their way through the Sambadrome. No more, no less or points would be deducted. Each school had a theme and a song written specifically for that school and their theme. Most of the wealthier schools had fireworks ignited for their introduction and as we watched I began to notice similarities. Each school began their march with a dancing duo followed by percussionists, spinning ladies in their large ballgowns, the marching groups, the floats and the groups of dancers all spectacularly adorned. Be warned, however, though the costumes are elaborate, there is lots of skin being shown off!
As tired as were were, I was glad that we stayed through the night watching one of the greatest shows on earth!
Having had the experience of being in the parade and watching from above, I think next time, we all agreed that it would be nice to purchase tickets to watch from the ground level in the Camarotes (VIP boxes) where some of our friends had spent the evening. Making our way back to the hotel, we realized that we had lots of time to make a plan for the next year. The sun was rising, our beds were calling and we had the rest of the day to enjoy the beach in one of the most breathtaking cities in South America!
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Note: All photos were taken with an Iphone, due to the security aspect and because I could not carry my Canon in the parade. Therefore, pictures taken from the grandstands are not as clear as if I had taken them with the Canon due to the distance factor.
Rio Carnivale
After purchasing my ticket, I took my place in line hoping to get a good spot in the teleférico. Luckily, I was one of the first in and snagged a position in the front of the car, heading to the top of Urca Hill, 220 meters above sea level. This part of the ride offered me my first aerial views of Copacabana and Ilha Cortunduba just off the coast. After I disembarked, I walked around for a few minutes, inspecting the two cable cars displayed here…the first cable car from 1912 and a more modern version. There are a number of trails that run through the thick vegetation, however, I decided continue my journey upward after getting my first views of Niteroi Bridge and Guanabara Bay and my second viewing of the Christ statue standing proud on its peak.
Boarding the next, larger teleferico on Urca, I was once again lucky enough to have a good position in the cabin for the three minute ride. Upon my exit, the view from the top of Sugarloaf was incomparable to any other I had ever seen. With a 360 degree view of the area, I gazed upon the whole of Rio, Niteroi and the blue waters of the Atlantic and Guanabara Bay and inland to the tropical forested mountains, including the peak, Dedo de Deus (God’s Finger), located 50 miles from Rio. Spying a low-flying airplane, I followed its descent until I located the Santos Dumont Airport in the north.
Deciding to have lunch at the restaurant overlooking the ocean, I took a seat and prepared to order. After waiting a while, I noticed that the staff was a extremely busy and no one had yet to take my order, wasting precious time. Yet, all was not lost…having come down to this area, I discovered a trail. Walking among the beautiful trees and tropical growth on the well-paved path, I noticed that I was being followed. A marmoset was running on the handrail next to me! As I stopped to watch, two more joined him. An amazing spectacle, they preened and posed and then I was fortunate to hear them call to each other. Truly priceless!
Christ the Redeemer Statue. Cristo Redentor.
Driving through the city was fascinating…the architecture and busy streets held my attention until I realized we were climbing. After a while, we pulled into the National Park area and the Cosme Velho station. Here, we were transferred to another van which would take us the remainder of the way to the statue.
A beautiful day in the city, it was a nice walk to the Pacaembu Stadium where I found the grounds filled with young kids practicing to the sounds of Brazilian music. Paying my admission, I first entered the stadium, gazing up at the stands and down at the rich, green turf that has withstood the trampling of the Big 4 football clubs of the State of São Paulo…Corinthians, Palmeiras, São Paulo and Santos.
Before making your way through the museum, be aware of one thing…everything is written in Portuguese. There is, however, a helpful app which guides you through each of the areas of the museum.
Many areas of the museum contain interactive exhibits that you can access and participate in. After encountering the most famous football players in history, you will be able to listen to the Radio broadcasts by Ary Barroso from the 1940’s and Osmar Santos, four decades later. Here, you can choose your favorite announcer by name or by year when the goal took place. You can also choose your favorite historic goal and later on, practice your own goal kicks.
There are countless photographs, team flags and old uniform pieces…even old cleats. You can even challenge your friends to a game…of foosball,…the tabletop version of the game.
My favorite part of the museum, however, was the Room of Celebration. Dedicated to the fans of the sport, it reminds us how the sport unites. Sound bytes of cheering fans echo under the stadium and videos are broadcast on the supporting pillars…those firmly planted in the ground when the stadium was built and those that support the bleachers on which the fans congregate. It is very loud in this area…however, I am sure it is nothing compared to what is the reality during an exciting game!
The Futbol Museum is very interesting for all visitors, especially younger ones who may not understand what part Brazil played in escalating the sport. For the older visitors, it is a walk through the past. And for the price (less than $4), it is something truly worth experiencing in São Paulo!
The phenomenal thing about Batman Alley is that you can visit each time you are in São Paulo and when you turn the corner into the alley, you never know what you may find. The art is continually renovated and looked after by the community and is always breathtaking. Even though it is ever changing, you can still find Batman, so be sure to search for him.
From my first visit to this unique area, I have noticed a huge increase in visitors. I’m not sure how I found this area, because years ago, it was not very well known to tourists and of course, takes a bit of doing to get there. Today, I observed more foot traffic as well as Uber depositing those too time-pressed to walk. There are many more cafes lining the streets adjacent to the alley and college-aged students and young professionals enjoying the sunshine and a beer or two.
The biggest difference, however, is in the alley itself. In addition to the hordes of people attempting to photograph the exclusive artwork, there are the young girls attempting to get the most awe-inspiring pictures for their Facebook profile or for Instagram. There are wanna-be photographers (some possibly real) and their wanna-be models complete with wardrobe changes and props, hoping that the exclusive location (if not the outcome of their work) will give both of their portfolios a leg-up. So unique is the area that I even observed a couple taking their engagement photos here!
Every wall is filled with amazing portraits, depictions and different styles of graffiti. If you are lucky, you might even catch an artist (or two) at work. Take your time, dodge the masses and be patient with the photo-shoots…Batman Alley is a place to relish…not rush, and, when you have finished walking through the alley, spend a little time walking the neighboring streets…many more interesting forms of artwork can be found, making the long walk to get there absolutely worth the blisters!
