Carnivale Time!

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Being a Louisiana native, experiencing Mardi Gras is something that I was able to check off of my bucket list many times over the years.

If attending Mardi Gras was number one on my list of all-time greatest parties, then experiencing Rio’s Carnivale was a close second.

The thought of attending Carnivale in Rio was something that had intrigued me for many years. I had been to Rio before and although I had navigated the city without incident, I must admit, I understood that it wasn’t the safest of places, so trying to find a hotel room and trying to figure out how the parades worked scared me off.

Luckily, I found myself in the position to be able to travel to Rio for work during Carnivale and actually be there for a whole forty-eight hours! The hotel room was secured, but I still had a lot of work to do to figure out how to go to the parades and festivities. And where were they by the way?

After phone calls to a friend with contacts in the city and a lot of googling, I learned a lot. Mainly that Carnival’s festivities differ a bit from Mardi Gras.

A friend explained that she had visited before and took part in the street parties that navigated the roadways in many of the neighborhoods. She described the costumes that the participants wore (a lot of tu-tus and bikini tops) and how crowded the areas could become thus necessitating many security measures. It was definitely something I probably would not want to do alone. She had never, however, gone to the Sambadrome to see the parades that roll through nightly.

Hmmm. Costumes needed to be packed and I was informed that the hotel would probably have a schedule for the street parties. But…this was not what I envisioned.

The Sambadrome…this was what I wanted to do! How could I say I had been to Rio’s Carnivale and not get to truly experience it in the Sambadrome? It did not take long to find a few websites advertising tickets for the parades. And yes…we were arriving Saturday morning and there were still tickets for that night’s festivities in the Sambadrome! Now, I just had to find friends to join me or would I be comfortable going by myself?

Reaching out to my coworkers, I found that a couple were excited to accompany me. We purchased tickets for Saturday night and everything was in place for a fun time.

And then I got the text.

Another of my coworkers, who originally hails from Rio, received a call from a friend. Did she or anyone else want to be a part of the Santa Cruz Samba school in the parade Saturday night?

Even though we had just purchased our tickets to watch the parade, we decided that this was an opportunity that we could not pass up! We could actually be IN the parade! This was truly the opportunity of a lifetime!

Quickly forwarding our costume sizes, we then found that we had to learn a song for our debut in the Sambadrome!

In Portuguese!

The day before the parade!

We embraced the challenge and wrote the song out phonetically…a bit of nonsensical jargon that only we could understand and any Brazilian would laugh at! Practicing all night, on our flight to Rio…it was quite comical!

Upon our arrival in Rio de Janeiro, we were quite exhausted but nevertheless excited. After finding a way to get our costumes, which were located an hour away, my Brazilian friend called us down into the lobby of the hotel to give us the huge bags with what we would be wearing that night.

Next on the list…finding the hotel where our tickets were to be picked up. We had ordered through a company called Bookers International. The website was easy to use and their representatives were extremely friendly and helpful when I reached out with the many questions that I had. Their setup at the Atlantic Hotel Copacabana was in a meeting room adjacent to the lobby and after a short wait outside, we were ushered in and our ticket packet was handed over to us.

Now, we only had a short time to get money (not easy when many of the ATMs were boarded up) and have dinner!

Getting dressed was thrilling! This was really happening and when we arrived in the lobby, all eyes were on us! There were many people who wanted to take pictures with us! Later, I would think back on this time and our costumes. They were interesting, but quite bulky…in fact, I think we looked a bit like green and white power rangers! When I finally saw some of the other costumes in the Sambadrome, I realized how much better they could have been!

Getting to the Sambadrome was not an easy feat. After investigating shuttle options, my friend decided that we would take Uber. Only because she was a native speaker was the reason that I agreed, as I had read that private cars were not allowed on the roadways near the Sambadrome. She was convinced, however, that we could get close enough.

The traffic was heavy and we barely fit inside the car with our unwieldy outfits. True to what I had learned, traffic was detoured a few blocks from the venue. Pulling over to the curb, we gathered our headdresses and made our way down the road, eyeing the lighted stadium in the distance.

The streets were wet from an earlier rainfall and the cheap shoes given to us made it hard to walk comfortably, each step causing distress on our soles. Finally, however, the roar of the crowd became deafening and we made our way into the ring. Walking along the outer reaches, we found the area where the many samba schools and floats were lined up.

Weaving our way around elegantly bedecked participants and huge, colorful floats, we walked for what seemed like miles. Even though we were running late, it was too hard not to lag behind and take these one-of-a-kind photos of the calm before the storm. Realizing that we had gone the wrong way, we finally turned in the opposite direction before finally spotting others dressed like us! The Santa Cruz Samba School!

Our entrance into the Sambadrome had been scheduled for eleven o’clock, however, the early rainstorms that had plagued the city had caused some major delays. We had a couple of drinks. We waited in line for the bathroom. We sat on the curb. We took a walk. We made friends. That eleven o’clock march into the Sambadrome finally turned into one o’clock in the morning. And by this time, the rain had returned.

Free seats for observers who want to watch the line-ups or for those unable to purchase seats in the Sambadrome

Excitement was high as we linked arms with those marching beside us. Lining up in rows of twelve, we finally moved forward entering the amazing Sambadrome.

The crowds roared and our song played.

Santa Cruz de Barbalha-Um Conto Popular No Cariri Cearense

Saudade tenho do meu Cariri
Minha terra onde nasci
E deixei meu coração
O verde admirava da varanda
Era doce minha lida
O suor do meu sertão

Êh muié guerreira
Batiza o meu lugar
A bênção a Padim Padi Ciço
Vi capitão Virgulino
Que se chamou Lampião
Maria Bunita da saia rendada
Me ensina menina prendada
A cantar como o Rei do Baião

Oh moça solteira
Oh pau da bandeira iaiá
Oh moça solteira
Pede ao santo padroeiro
Um sinhô pra ser seu par

Onde versa o trovador
Nasce a fé e alegria
No Araripe o soldadinho
Anuncia um novo dia
Nos altares eu pedi ao pai
E na fonte agradeci em paz

Lava a minha alma e cura minha dor
No peito a Santa Cruz do amor

Vou voltar
Santo Antônio de Barbalha
Ilumine essa batalha
Minha gente pede ao céu
Vou voltar
Santo Antônio de Barbalha
Ceará tem paraíso em forma de cordel

Onde plantei o meu valor
Colhi meus ideais
Vai ressoar o meu tambor
A voz que ecoa dos canaviais

Having been told that we were under the scrutiny of the judges, stationed along the length of the venue, we needed to dance, sing and smile for the entire duration. We started out strong and it was quite overwhelming to see the bystanders lining the route. They were all having a great time drinking, dancing and taking our photos!

As thrilling as it was, it was quite exhausting! Singing the same song over and over and continually dancing…in the light rain…with shoes that were falling apart…halfway through, I wondered if anyone would notice if I jumped the barrier and joined the revelers! Continual movement for over an hour and for almost half a mile, for each school to complete their performance is a LONG time!

Finally, reaching the end of the route, we mingled with the other participants in the Praça da Apoteose (Apotheosis Square), each removing as much of our costumes as we could and graciously accepting water from the volunteers assigned to make sure that we were all hydrated.

Completion of parades at Praça da Apoteose

Following my friend, we made our way to our assigned seats, grabbing a beer and some snacks along the way. Watching the parade from this viewpoint gave us a whole different perspective and as I watched each of the remaining schools, I learned that there were many aspects that each school was being judged on.

First and foremost, each school had between sixty-five and seventy-five minutes to make their way through the Sambadrome. No more, no less or points would be deducted. Each school had a theme and a song written specifically for that school and their theme. Most of the wealthier schools had fireworks ignited for their introduction and as we watched I began to notice similarities. Each school began their march with a dancing duo followed by percussionists, spinning ladies in their large ballgowns, the marching groups, the floats and the groups of dancers all spectacularly adorned. Be warned, however, though the costumes are elaborate, there is lots of skin being shown off!

As tired as were were, I was glad that we stayed through the night watching one of the greatest shows on earth!

Having had the experience of being in the parade and watching from above, I think next time, we all agreed that it would be nice to purchase tickets to watch from the ground level in the Camarotes (VIP boxes) where some of our friends had spent the evening. Making our way back to the hotel, we realized that we had lots of time to make a plan for the next year. The sun was rising, our beds were calling and we had the rest of the day to enjoy the beach in one of the most breathtaking cities in South America!

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Note: All photos were taken with an Iphone, due to the security aspect and because I could not carry my Canon in the parade. Therefore, pictures taken from the grandstands are not as clear as if I had taken them with the Canon due to the distance factor.

Rio Carnivale

No Sugar Tonight

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Sugarloaf Mountain.

Honestly, I have to admit, I had never heard of it.  I have seen pictures of the beautifully shaped, towering mountain, but I guess I never realized what a popular attraction it was in Rio de Janeiro.  Maybe had I watched the Simpsons episode (Blame It On Lisa) where Lisa’s kidnappers met with the family for an exchange between two cable cars, I might have had it all figured out!

On my second morning in Rio, I was up early and Ubering to the cable car station at Praia Vermelha, ready to see what this place was all about.

Sugarloaf Mountain is actually one of several monolithic granite and quartz mountains rising straight from the water’s edge around Rio de Janeiro.  Declared a World Heritage Site in 2012, the peaks of Sugarloaf…Morro da Urca and Pão de Açúcar…are reached by glass-walled cable cars (teleféricos) and are visited by thousands of visitors every day there to take advantage of the incredible hiking trails and unparalleled views.

After purchasing my ticket, I took my place in line hoping to get a good spot in the teleférico.  Luckily, I was one of the first in and snagged a position in the front of the car, heading to the top of Urca Hill, 220 meters above sea level.  This part of the ride offered me my first aerial views of Copacabana and Ilha Cortunduba just off the coast.  After I disembarked, I walked around for a few minutes, inspecting the two cable cars displayed here…the first cable car from 1912 and a more modern version.  There are a number of trails that run through the thick vegetation, however, I decided continue my journey upward after getting my first views of Niteroi Bridge and Guanabara Bay and my second viewing of the Christ statue standing proud on its peak.

Boarding the next, larger teleferico on Urca, I was once again lucky enough to have a good position in the cabin for the three minute ride.  Upon my exit, the view from the top of Sugarloaf was incomparable to any other I had ever seen.  With a 360 degree view of the area, I gazed upon the whole of Rio, Niteroi and the blue waters of the Atlantic and Guanabara Bay and inland to the tropical forested mountains, including the peak, Dedo de Deus (God’s Finger), located 50 miles from Rio.  Spying a low-flying airplane, I followed its descent until I located the Santos Dumont Airport in the north.

Deciding to have lunch at the restaurant overlooking the ocean, I took a seat and prepared to order.  After waiting a while, I noticed that the staff was a extremely busy and no one had yet to take my order, wasting precious time.  Yet, all was not lost…having come down to this area, I discovered a trail.  Walking among the beautiful trees and tropical growth on the well-paved path, I noticed that I was being followed.  A marmoset was running on the handrail next to me!  As I stopped to watch, two more joined him.  An amazing spectacle, they preened and posed and then I was fortunate to hear them call to each other.  Truly priceless!

After making a few souvenir purchases in the gift shop, it was time to make the journey down again.

Although my time in Rio was brief, there are many things to see and do and finding time to squeeze them all in was paramount.  Without having prior knowledge of Sugarloaf, I may have timed my visit a little differently.   Though I thoroughly enjoyed the jaw dropping views during the clear morning, I understand that evening is the prime time to visit for viewing the colorful sunsets.

Ah yes.  Sunsets on Sugarloaf.  That will have to wait for another time.  But for this night…in the words of the song by the band, The Guess Who, there was No Sugar Tonight.

Next visit.

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Sugarloaf Mountain

  • http://www.bondinho.com.br/en/informacoes-gerais/
  • Address:  Avenida Pasteur, 520 – Botafogo, Rio de Janeiro – RJ  22290-240
  • Hours:  0800-1950, daily
  • Admission:  R$80 (about $21.50 US), Ages 6-21 R$40 (about $10.75), Children under 6 years, free.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Checking Out Rio

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Bucket Lists?

Doesn’t everyone have one?

I do.  Mine is pretty lengthy and covers things all over the world.  Steadily marking things off, I always hope to make some headway but I guess I need to quit adding to the list.

Recently, I found myself heading down to Rio, a first for me.  Immediately, I realized that there was something on my bucket list that I could accomplish.

Christ the Redeemer Statue.  Cristo Redentor.

The immense art deco statue, made of concrete and soapstone and measuring 98 feet high (with a 26 foot pedestal), was created by French sculptor Paul Landowski and completed in 1931.  Weighing a massive 635 metric tons it is located at the peak of Corcovado mountain in the Tijuca Forest National Park.  Listed as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, it is a symbol of Christianity across the world, a cultural icon of both Rio de Janeiro and Brazil and the most visited landmark in the country.

After arriving and discovering a beautiful day awaited me, a quick shower gave me the wake-up call I needed and I was off to Praça do Lido to purchase my ticket and take the provided transportation up to the summit.

Driving through the city was fascinating…the architecture and busy streets held my attention until I realized we were climbing.  After a while, we pulled into the National Park area and the Cosme Velho station.  Here, we were transferred to another van which would take us the remainder of the way to the statue.

It is important to note that there are a couple of other ways to make your way to the station.  A cab can be taken to the Cosme Velho station, just be aware that there are no set rates and the meter should be turned on.  From, here you can arrange to take one of the vans or the Cog train to the top of the mountain.  If you are the adventuresome type and trying to work off the many pastels you ate for dinner the night before, you might consider hiking the remainder of the way.

After the short ride to the top, I disembarked and ascended the steep stairs, passing amazing overlooks, restaurants and gift shops hawking rosaries and replicas of the statue.  My first glimpse of the formidable statue was from the rear, but even at this angle, I must say, it took my breath away.

A few more steps and there I was.  Looking into Cristo Rendtor’s face.

Check.

Looking up at the statue in the afternoon light was more than I could ever imagine.  Tall and imposing, the statue towers over the mountain and keeps watch over the surrounding city…which by the way, offers unobstructed views of Copacabana Beach, Ipanema Beach, Sugarloaf Mountain and the neighboring mountains.  I couldn’t have asked for more, however, if I ever returned, I think that it would be in the morning to have the brilliant sunlight on the statue’s front side.

Be sure to check out the busts at the rear of the statue depicting the engineer and Archbishop who were instrumental in the building of the statue as well as the small chapel.

Though relatively crowded, your admission ticket does not dictate how much time you can spend at the statue and believe me, take your time.  Relish it!  Enjoy it!

Whip out that notebook and pencil and make that big check mark!

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Santuario Cristo Redentor

  • https://cristoredentoroficial.com.br/
  • Address:  Parque Nacional da Tijuca – Alto da Boa Vista, Rio de Janeiro – RJ, Brazil
  • Hours:  0800-1900, daily
  • Admission:  Adults, R$43 (about $11.50 US), Children R$21.50 (about $5.75 US), Children under 6, free.
  • Getting There:  By Van from Largo do Machado and Praça do Lido.
    R$ 74 (high season/ weekends and holidays) and R$ 61 (low season / week days) – Children from 5 to 11 years old, R$ 48. Children under 5, free. Seniors over 60 years, Brazilians and foreigners residing in Brazil, R$ 40,50.  Transportation and admission included in price.
    Business hours: Daily, 8am-4pm (Praça do Lido) and 8am-5pm (Largo do Machado).

Are You Ready For Some Futbol?

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Sports.

Living in a house full of men, I have learned that they truly believe the only channels available on our cable network are ESPN1, ESPN2, MLB Channel, NFL Network, NHL Network, Sportsman Channel and ESPN News.

In high school, I was a basketball cheerleader and I have sat patiently through hours of my children’s soccer, basketball, baseball and rugby games.  I like sports but love them?  Maybe some more than others.

Soccer?  It’s not so big in the United States…football takes that award.  Though I admire the dexterity that soccer players have, I admit…I do have a hard time understanding the rules.  But, soccer is huge in Brazil!  And in this country, it is called football…or futbol.  The greatest footballer in history, Pelé, hails from Brazil.  So, when I found that there was a Futbol Museum housed in the nearby stadium, I decided that I had to go…surely, the Brazilians must do it up well!

A beautiful day in the city, it was a nice walk to the Pacaembu Stadium where I found the grounds filled with young kids practicing to the sounds of Brazilian music.  Paying my admission, I first entered the stadium, gazing up at the stands and down at the rich, green turf that has withstood the trampling of the Big 4 football clubs of the State of São Paulo…Corinthians, Palmeiras, São Paulo and Santos.

The stadium, inaugurated on April 27, 1940, has a capacity of 40,199 and was named after Paulo Machado de Carvalho, the 1958 FIFA World Cup Brazilian delegation chief and founder of Rede Record (largest television networks in Brazil).  Just beyond the stadium, the beautiful skyline of São Paulo is visible, reminding visitors that it is just a stone’s throw from the hustle and bustle of busy Paulista Avenue.  Many famous non-sports related performers have also graced its field including Paul McCartney, The Rolling Stones, The Red Hot Chili Peppers, Avril Lavigne, Eric Clapton and Iron Maiden.

The museum is located under the stadium on the northwest side.  After entering, you will be greeted with a two story atrium filled with framed posters and  keepsakes reminding us of the impact futbol has made on the world.   After heading up the escalator you will be greeted by a video of Pelé, broadcast on a screen at the top of the escalators, welcoming visitors to the museum.

Before making your way through the museum, be aware of one thing…everything is written in Portuguese.  There is, however, a helpful app which guides you through each of the areas of the museum.

The museum is a modern affair, complete with videos, holograms, recordings and memorabilia.  It explains how football came to Brazil at the end of the 19th century and how it became a groundbreaking affair with black and mixed race athletes being accepted in the 1930s.

Many areas of the museum contain interactive exhibits that you can access and participate in.  After encountering the most famous football players in history, you will be able to listen to the Radio broadcasts by Ary Barroso from the 1940’s and Osmar Santos, four decades later.  Here, you can choose your favorite announcer by name or by year when the goal took place.  You can also choose your favorite historic goal and later on, practice your own goal kicks.

There are countless photographs, team flags and old uniform pieces…even old cleats.  You can even challenge your friends to a game…of foosball,…the tabletop version of the game.

My favorite part of the museum, however, was the Room of Celebration.  Dedicated to the fans of the sport, it reminds us how the sport unites.  Sound bytes of cheering fans echo under the stadium and videos are broadcast on the supporting pillars…those firmly planted in the ground when the stadium was built and those that support the bleachers on which the fans congregate.  It is very loud in this area…however, I am sure it is nothing compared to what is the reality during an exciting game!

The Futbol Museum is very interesting for all visitors, especially younger ones who may not understand what part Brazil played in escalating the sport.  For the older visitors, it is a walk through the past.  And for the price (less than $4), it is something truly worth experiencing in São Paulo!

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Museu do Futebol

  • http://museudofutebol.org.br/
  • Address:  Praça Charles Miller, s/n – Pacaembu, São Paulo – SP, 01234-010, Brazil
  • Hours:  Tuesday through Friday, 0900-1700, Saturday and Sunday, 0900-1800, Closed Mondays, January 1, Ash Wednesday, December 24, 25 and 31.
  • Admission:  R$12 (about $3.68 U.S.), free to children under 7 years
  • Getting There:  Closest Metro stops, Clinicas, Estação Paulista do Metro, Higienópolis-Mackenzie

 

 

Batman Alley

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

São Paulo can be a daunting city.

Roads are congested with traffic and the city is somewhat spread out, necessitating the use of the metro or bus system if you want to get around without the use of an automobile.

Unless I am traveling to a far part of the city, I do enjoy walking, especially in the neighborhoods south of Paulista Avenue.  One of my favorite areas is that of Cerqueira César with its beautiful old trees and rolling streets (though it can be hard on your feet).  I love the many eating establishments and boutiques, leading down to Rua Oscar Freire, the king of shopping areas, with its well-known (and expensive) stores offering up clothing, shoes and jewelry.  Another nearby area, Pinheiros has more of a funky vibe and many cool cafes and bars.

Walking through these two areas  brings me to my favorite place in São Paulo…no…not the Havaiana’s store. It is one that I think of when I picture the artistic side of the city…the neighborhood of Jardim de Bandeiras.  A bit more rustic, the area has many car repair shops, seedy bars and art galleries and sits right behind the Cemitério São Paulo Cardeal.  Doesn’t sound appealing?  What’s located there is, though…I promise!

It is here that my favorite attraction in São Paulo can be found…Batman Alley.

In 1980, a picture of DC Comic hero, Batman was painted on one of the walls in the alley.   Shortly thereafter, local art students began filling the adjacent walls with psychedelic and cubist influenced designs, a tradition that has continued throughout the years, though seemingly gaining more notoriety, most recently.

As you walk around and past the cemetery, a great deal of graffiti can be spotted on doorways and walls of the buildings and cemetery…some good and some…not so good.  But, as you near Batman Alley, the concentration becomes denser and more sophisticated.

The phenomenal thing about Batman Alley is that you can visit each time you are in São Paulo and when you turn the corner into the alley, you never know what you may find.  The art is continually renovated and looked after by the community and is always breathtaking.  Even though it is ever changing, you can still find Batman, so be sure to search for him.

From my first visit to this unique area, I have noticed a huge increase in visitors.  I’m not sure how I found this area, because years ago, it was not very well known to tourists and of course, takes a bit of doing to get there.  Today, I observed more foot traffic as well as Uber depositing those too time-pressed to walk.  There are many more cafes lining the streets adjacent to the alley and college-aged students and young professionals enjoying the sunshine and a beer or two.

The biggest difference, however, is in the alley itself.  In addition to the hordes of people attempting to photograph the exclusive artwork, there are the young girls attempting to get the most awe-inspiring pictures for their Facebook profile or for Instagram.  There are wanna-be photographers (some possibly real) and their wanna-be models complete with wardrobe changes and props, hoping that the exclusive location (if not the outcome of their work) will give both of their portfolios a leg-up.  So unique is the area that  I even observed a couple taking their engagement photos here!

Every wall is filled with amazing portraits, depictions and different styles of graffiti.  If you are lucky, you might even catch an artist (or two) at work.  Take your time, dodge the masses and be patient with the photo-shoots…Batman Alley is a place to relish…not rush, and, when you have finished walking through the alley, spend a little time walking the neighboring streets…many more interesting forms of artwork can be found, making the long walk to get there absolutely worth the blisters!

There are those who do not care for graffiti as much as others, however, keep this one thing in mind…Batman Alley is more than graffiti…it is an experience!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Beco do Batman

  •  Address:  R. Gonçalo Afonso – Vila Madalena, São Paulo – SP, 03178-200, Brazil
  • Hours:  Never closes
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  Closest metros, Fradique Coutinho and Sumaré.  About a forty minute walk from Oscar Freire.