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São Paulo can be a daunting city.
Roads are congested with traffic and the city is somewhat spread out, necessitating the use of the metro or bus system if you want to get around without the use of an automobile.
Unless I am traveling to a far part of the city, I do enjoy walking, especially in the neighborhoods south of Paulista Avenue. One of my favorite areas is that of Cerqueira César with its beautiful old trees and rolling streets (though it can be hard on your feet). I love the many eating establishments and boutiques, leading down to Rua Oscar Freire, the king of shopping areas, with its well-known (and expensive) stores offering up clothing, shoes and jewelry. Another nearby area, Pinheiros has more of a funky vibe and many cool cafes and bars.
Walking through these two areas brings me to my favorite place in São Paulo…no…not the Havaiana’s store. It is one that I think of when I picture the artistic side of the city…the neighborhood of Jardim de Bandeiras. A bit more rustic, the area has many car repair shops, seedy bars and art galleries and sits right behind the Cemitério São Paulo Cardeal. Doesn’t sound appealing? What’s located there is, though…I promise!
It is here that my favorite attraction in São Paulo can be found…Batman Alley.
In 1980, a picture of DC Comic hero, Batman was painted on one of the walls in the alley. Shortly thereafter, local art students began filling the adjacent walls with psychedelic and cubist influenced designs, a tradition that has continued throughout the years, though seemingly gaining more notoriety, most recently.
As you walk around and past the cemetery, a great deal of graffiti can be spotted on doorways and walls of the buildings and cemetery…some good and some…not so good. But, as you near Batman Alley, the concentration becomes denser and more sophisticated.
The phenomenal thing about Batman Alley is that you can visit each time you are in São Paulo and when you turn the corner into the alley, you never know what you may find. The art is continually renovated and looked after by the community and is always breathtaking. Even though it is ever changing, you can still find Batman, so be sure to search for him.
From my first visit to this unique area, I have noticed a huge increase in visitors. I’m not sure how I found this area, because years ago, it was not very well known to tourists and of course, takes a bit of doing to get there. Today, I observed more foot traffic as well as Uber depositing those too time-pressed to walk. There are many more cafes lining the streets adjacent to the alley and college-aged students and young professionals enjoying the sunshine and a beer or two.
The biggest difference, however, is in the alley itself. In addition to the hordes of people attempting to photograph the exclusive artwork, there are the young girls attempting to get the most awe-inspiring pictures for their Facebook profile or for Instagram. There are wanna-be photographers (some possibly real) and their wanna-be models complete with wardrobe changes and props, hoping that the exclusive location (if not the outcome of their work) will give both of their portfolios a leg-up. So unique is the area that I even observed a couple taking their engagement photos here!
Every wall is filled with amazing portraits, depictions and different styles of graffiti. If you are lucky, you might even catch an artist (or two) at work. Take your time, dodge the masses and be patient with the photo-shoots…Batman Alley is a place to relish…not rush, and, when you have finished walking through the alley, spend a little time walking the neighboring streets…many more interesting forms of artwork can be found, making the long walk to get there absolutely worth the blisters!
There are those who do not care for graffiti as much as others, however, keep this one thing in mind…Batman Alley is more than graffiti…it is an experience!
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Beco do Batman
- Address: R. Gonçalo Afonso – Vila Madalena, São Paulo – SP, 03178-200, Brazil
- Hours: Never closes
- Admission: free
- Getting There: Closest metros, Fradique Coutinho and Sumaré. About a forty minute walk from Oscar Freire.
In the 17th century, the 135-step staircase was designed by little-known architect and sculptor, Francesco de Sanctis. The steps, built during a two year span, from 1723 to 1725, were intended to connect the newly built Trinita dei Monti church, owned by the French, and the Piazza di Spagna, home of the Spanish Embassy, signifying the newly-established peace between France and Spain.
After leaving the church, I was determined to head toward the recently refurbished Fontana di Trevi (Trevi Fountain), but there was a brief detour that I was determined to make.
Making my way down Via Gregoriana, I finally headed to the Trevi Fountain to see it once again devoid of the scaffolding that had marred its beautiful veneer the last time I had walked past.
Like the Spanish Steps, the well-known Trevi Fountain has become a place where tourists and locals meet and hang out, grabbing a nearby gelato while admiring the roaring water cascading from the monument.
And, while you are at it, make sure to throw a coin from your right hand over your left shoulder and make a wish! It will ensure that you will return to Rome one day!
After renting a Jeep Patriot (great for driving through floodwaters) we headed out. Navigating the narrow streets, we drove slowly, through the pouring rain until we reached the main highway that cuts through the middle of the island (Transversal de Cozumel). The rain had slowed and we were soon arriving at San Gervasio archaeological site. Thankfully, the rain soon tapered off and we were able to spend some time investigating these interesting ruins.
