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When walking along the river Spree, there is one building that dominates the skyline.
The Berlin Cathedral.
Though this amazing structure is commonly known as a cathedral, it actually only holds the status of a parish church for the Protestant community. Its beauty truly surpasses others within the once-walled city, but it is its history that really sets it apart.
Once the court church to the Hohenzollen dynasty, the rulers of Prussia and later, the German Emperors, this fifteenth century church had its humble beginnings as the chapel of the new royal city palace. As time progressed, it was deemed a collegiate church…a Domkirche (cathedral church). Though it was not the seat of the bishop or the central church of a diocese, it continued to be known as the Dom Cathedral.
From the early nineteenth century, the church was transformed from a court church into a neo-classical building by architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel. As time progressed and monarchy changed, several designs were proposed for a new church. By 1888, Emperor Friedrich Wilhelm II, finding the church too modest, insisted on a new design which would reflect on the monarchy’s power and prestige. After many designs were presented and rejected, it was architect Julius Carl Raschdorff’s palatial conception that was selected to compete with St. Peter’s in Rome and St. Paul’s in London.
The church’s construction began in 1894 and a short eleven years later, the new church was consecrated.
The Second World War was detrimental to the church with it sustaining much damage. After years of neglect, restoration work began in 1975 with a full-fledged rehabilitation beginning in 1993 after the fall of the Berlin Wall, which had divided the city since the war.
Churches are my passion and I have seen many during my travels. I have to admit, however, as you walk up to this one, it is one of the most impressive with its massive center dome and the smaller two flanking it. With its new golden cross (2008) glittering in the sun, the Lustgarten Park situated in the front, filled with tourists lounging in the sun and the fountain reflecting multicolored hues…it is certainly a place that would lure anyone of any faith.
After paying my admission, I donned my audio guide earphones and entered the the first stop on the tour, the Sermon church.
Wow.
There is not much more that I can say that can adequately describe the interior of the Sermon church. Filled with bright light emanating from the large windows and reflecting from the gilded adornments, the church is a sight to behold. My reaction was to turn three hundred sixty degrees in order to take in everything, from the sandstone pillars and figures of the four great reformers, Luther, Melanchthon, Zwingli and Calvin to the reliefs depicting the lives of the Apostles that decorate the walls above the statues. The mosaics with beautiful portraits of the evangelists were especially breathtaking.
The chancel takes center stage and my eye was initially drawn to it as it sits high above the congregation and is surrounded by glass paintings representing the Nativity, the Crucifixion and the Resurrection. The altar, made of white marble and onyx presides before the gilded Apostles’ Screen designed by Friedrich Schinkel. The beautifully carved pulpit to the left of the chancel is also particularly noteworthy.
Turning to the left side of the church, the great Sauer organ was galvanizing with its massive size and artistry. Installed during the building’s construction, it is the largest preserved organ in its original state and is considered to be the largest in Germany with 7269 pipes and 113 registers.
The main focus, however, was the gilded cupola with its large windows and colorful mosaics near the apex. The second dome on the site, after Emperor William II deemed the first too small, is the highlight of the Sermon Church with a height of 225 feet and a diameter of 100 feet. Standing in the center of the church I admired the best view of the dome…absolutely mesmerizing!
Venturing outside of the Sermon church’s main area, I took notice of the crypts located under the organ gallery. Though there are many others within the cathedral, these are the burial sites of Kurfürster Friedrich Wilhelm, Elector of Brandenburg, his wife Kurfürstin Dorothea, German Emperor, Friedrich III and Kurfürster Johann Cicero, Elector of Brandenburg.
Opposite the organ gallery, I ventured into the Baptismal and Matrimonial Church. The entrance, flanked by ornate sarcophagi and created by sculptor Andreas Schlüter, led to a barrel vaulted church. This more intimate space, was adorned by an altarpiece, The Outpouring Of The Holy Spirit, considered to be one of the most significant pieces of artwork in the cathedral and an organ built by the Potsdam company Alexander Schuke, the first to be built after the Second World War.
Heading upward on the Imperial Staircase, I walked slowly, inspecting the multicolored marble and the stone from the Lahn region used in construction as well as the unique candelabra and ceiling crowns. Adorning the ceilings and wall spaces are paintings displaying stories from the life of Jesus Christ and parables. Take note of the “Nazareth” painting hanging opposite the staircase. The original, by Albert Hertel, was lost during the war, however, this reconstruction was painted by Brandenburg restorer and painter Ekkehard Koch.
On the upper level, there is a museum which offers an architectural history on the cathedral with large scale models of wood and plaster. Many of these show some of the original designs by Friedrich Stüler, which were never realized.
Heading higher…270 steps…I was able to lay my eyes on some of the best views of Berlin from the dome. Fascinating statues lined the wide balustrade and I could see famous landmarks such as City Hall, the Humboldt Forum, Museum Island and the television tower.
My final stop was on the lower level of the cathedral, which is the burial place of the Hohenzollern dynasty who ruled Prussian since the Middle Ages and the German Empire from 1871 until 1918. Though the most important kings and emperors are buried near their favorite castles in Berlin, the immense space is lined with beautifully carved tombs and statues from the influential family.
My visit completed, I made my way from the cathedral back into Lustgarten Park. Facing the building, I stopped and gazed up at the domes, my eyes drawn to the spot where I had stood just before. Equally impressive from the outside and the inside, the Berliner Dom is one of the most stunning churches I have visited. An amazing place of history and architecture, it ranks high on the lists of attractions in the once divided city. It now acts as a place which brings people together…a place of worship and a place of tourism.
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Berlin Cathedral (Berliner Dom)
- https://www.berlinerdom.de/en/
- Address: Oberpfarr- und Domkirche zu Berlin, Am Lustgarten, 10178 Berlin
- Hours: Monday through Friday, 0900-2000, Saturday, 0900-1700, Sunday, 0900-1200
- Services: Sundays and public holidays, 1000, Communion Service and Children’s Service, Sundays and public holidays, 1800, Service with Sermon and Hymns, Saturdays, 1800, Vespers, Monday through Saturday, 1200, Midday Worship, Monday through Friday, 1800, Evening Worship (Thursdays as Evensong in English and German)
- Admission: Adults, €7.00, Children, €5.00