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Earlier this summer I visited Portugal for the first time.
Lisbon on two separate occasions was enlightening and refreshing, but, I was aware that there were so many other parts that I wanted to visit…what an understatement! I was thinking Porto…Faro. Then, I heard about the Azores.
Now, I am a person who prides herself on geography knowledge, but I have to admit, I had no idea where the Azores were located and was amazed to find that it was part of Portugal! I decided I had to take a quick trip to check out this archipelago.
After a quick flight from New York, we were touching down in the light of the early morning hour, ready to discover everything available to us.
Despite my usual attention to detail, I found myself a bit unprepared for this trip, driving out of the airport rental car lot with only a vague map snagged from the rental car company.
Our hotel was easy to find on the harbor in Ponta Delgada, however, our room would not be ready until later that morning. Driving past, we headed east, following the rugged coastline, interspersed with black sand beaches and sapphire waters. Finding ourselves in Lagoa, we marveled at the colorful homes and businesses lining the narrow cobblestone streets and the white stone churches that seemed to be everywhere! It truly seemed that we were in Italy, not Portugal!
Driving through Saõ Roque I spied a beautiful church along the coast. Igreja de Saõ Roque is the main parochial church of the area and includes the Chapel of the Holies, an altar of immense value and decorated in hand-painted azulejo tile. It is also known as the burial place for the grandmother of the Marquês e Pombal.
Re-mastering my little stick-shift (which I had not driven in about 25 years), we cruised along the narrow lanes and sometimes highways, heading wherever…we had no plan in that moment.
Finding outselves at the Miradouro do Ilhéu de Rosto de Cão, we parked the car and ventured over to check out the interesting rock formation jutting out from the ocean from one of the many overlooks dotting the islands’ landscape. We also found here Forno Da Cal, a rocky fortress-like structure which was transformed from a site used for the production of lime to one used for tourism. Resembling a small fort, its higher vantage point give visitors an amazing view over Ponta Delgada, São Roque, the hills and the Atlantic Ocean.
Finally, heading back into Ponta Delgada, it was time for check-in and a much needed shower and nap.
After our refreshing siesta, we headed out on foot, eager to explore the town laid out before us.
I must admit, I wasn’t sure what to expect from the Azores and was surprised to find it a blend of many architectural styles and exuding the characteristics of many other countries. In the square, housing the 18th century City Gate, some of the buildings reminded me of those I encounter in Switzerland and Germany. And, as I mentioned before, I got the sense of Italy along the coastline in the small villages dotting the landscape. As we headed through the countryside, I felt as though I was glimpsing Ireland and Scotland, with the low, stone walls separating the green, rolling hills. The Azores was truly a revelation!
Strolling along the main street, we dodged the occasional rain shower, peering into the shops and restaurants and hoping that the dark skies would not open up. Our destination, Fort de Saõ Bras de Ponta Delgada, was situated on the outskirts of the city and I was anxious to spend some time walking along the ramparts and admiring the harbor views.
Paying our entrance fee, we entered the active military installation and set out to see what this place was all about.
Constructed in the 17th century, the Renaissance fort’s purpose was to defend the area against pirate raids as well as the Spaniards and the French. During both World Wars, the fort secured the safety of Allied shipping and today acts as a base for the Portuguese navy as well as housing a military museum.
Across the main road, we found the church of Saõ José. Looking like a typical Portuguese church from the outside, it offers a feast for the eyes on the interior. In the early 1500’s the Franciscan Friars built a convent in the location. Construction of the church was began in 1709 and showcases three naves and three chapels, including the Chapels of the Lord of the Thirds and Our Lady of Sorrows. Decorated with rich gilded woodwork, it also features important 18th century blue and white tiles and jacaranda appointments.
Another church, in the adjacent square is Igreja do Santo Cristo. Also exhibiting a beautifully gilded interior, this one threw me for a loop. As I positioned myself discreetly to photograph the altar, I noticed the door opening and a gentleman crawling on hand and knee into the church. Making his way to the rear of the building, he remained prostrate before a gated area. Many after him, came to the gated area and knelt for extended periods of time. Waiting patiently for a spot to open on one of the benches facing the bars, I finally made my way there and took a seat.
I was intrigued…what significance did this church have? After doing a bit of research later that evening, I learned that this chapel houses Senhor Santo Cristo dos Milagres, the wooden image of Christ which represents the Jesus of Nazareth as he was presented to the crowd wearing a crown of thorns on his head and with his bruised, beaten, whipped torso exposed. Created by an unknown artist, the statue is on display here in the church and is used to lead a procession through the city during the city for the festival honoring the Lord Holy Christ of the Miracles on the fifth Sunday after Easter and lasting until Thursday of the Ascension.
This is truly a place of pilgrimage, spirituality and extreme faith.
So moving and so touched was I by those coming to pay their respects and seek favor, I did not take any pictures of the statue. Anyone visiting Ponta Delgada should come and see Senhor Santo Cristo dos Milagres for themselves.
Having seen three churches on this day so far, anyone would think that I would have had enough, however, there was one more that had captured my attention as we walked near the main square earlier, Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião (The Church of Saint Sebastian).
This church’s bell tower, the only one in the city, snagged my attention as I had walked nearby earlier during the afternoon. Built between the years of 1531 and 1547, the Azotian church’s exterior is quite similar to the the previous ones I had visited earlier in the day. Often referred to as the “Matriz”, this church was built on the site of a small chapel dedicated to the first patron saint of the island.
The interior was lavishly decorated with carved cedar and other exotic woods and the opulently carved altar and choir stalls guided me around the structure. As I made my way around the church, I was drawn to the age-old paintings from the 17th and 18th centuries, the elegant jacaranda furniture, the glazed tiles and the colorful images of the saints etched onto the windows. In the sacristy, an immensely valuable collection of gold-embroidered liturgical vestments can viewed.
Snapping away with my camera at the beauty that was displayed here, I was suddenly aware of a gentleman staring at me as I walked around. As I glanced around, it became apparent that no other visitors were taking pictures and I had probably disturbed the man with the continual clicking of my shutter. Indeed, as I exited the church, I noticed the sign that I had missed upon my entry…no photography was allowed. Though I had not purposely ignored the instructions, I did feel terrible for my mistake.
Continuing on, we made our way through the cobblestone streets made of volcanic rock, admiring the beautiful patterns that led the way. So many things diverted our attention…musicians, shops displaying Azorian wares, people spread out in the promenades enjoying the lovely afternoon.
A good night’s rest was definitely needed…tomorrow was to be a day filled with more exploration of this unique and beautiful island.
Itt6xx[;-0p0-[greja de Saõ Roque
- Address: R. Direita da Igreja, São Roque, Portugal
- Hours: Unknown
- Admission: free
Fort de Saõ Bras de Ponta Delgada
- Address: R. Eng. Abel Ferin Coutinho 10, 9500-768 Ponta Delgada, Portugal
- Hours: Monday through Friday, 1000-1800, Saturday and Sunday, 1000-1330 and 1430-1700.
- Admission: €3.00
Igreja de Saõ José
- http://saojoseparoquiapdl.wixsite.com/paroquia
- Address: Campo de São Francisco 11A, 9500-153 Ponta Delgada, Portugal
- Hours: 0800-1230 and 1400-1700, daily
- Admission: free
Igreja do Santo Cristo dos Milagres
- Address: Avenida Roberto Ivens Ponta Delgada, 9500-239 Ponta Delgada, Portugal
- Hours: Unknown, however, may be similar to the neighboring Igreja de Saõ José
- Admission: free
Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião
- Address:
- Hours: Monday through Saturday, 0730-1900. Sunday, 0730 to 1300 and 1600-1800.
- Admission: free