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The early bird catches the worm.
So they say.
We caught some breakfast and a rain shower, but we were anxious to begin our drive around the island of San Miguel.
Armed with a map, snagged from a travel agent in Ponta Delgada, we had a plan and a full tank of gas. It was time to travel outside the city limits. Deciding to begin our exploration on the western side of the island, we passed the airport and headed out through many small towns driving down empty country lanes lined with beautiful flowers and overlooked by sturdy-looking cows.
As concerned as I was about the cows (I was warned that they tend to jump in front of cars! Hmm…yes, that was what I was told…), I was far more interested in the amazing scenic overlooks every few miles and the beautiful hydrangeas that lined the roadways.
Having heard about the hydrangeas from friends, it was another thing to actually see them in person. These are not the small bushes you normally see in your neighbor’s garden. Looking more like the size of trees, these amazing flowers appeared in countless colors, shapes and sizes, are the most recognized symbol of the region and are maintained by the towns in which they are located. As beautiful and enticing as they are, only stop to smell the flowers…it is illegal to pick them.
Continuing onward, we soon found ourselves at the Miradouro da Vista do Rei, an overlook with views of Sete Cidades, the three mile wide caldera and its green and blue-hued lakes. According to legend, these lakes were formed from the tears of a shepherd and a princess who shared a forbidden love.
There is a parking area at the fork in the road with many trails leading into the crater. There is also an intriguing abandoned hotel located here which reminded me of a setting from a horror movie. Though it is now enclosed by a wall to keep intruders out, the wall is not high enough if you are really determined to see the rotting remains up close.
Driving down into the crater, we crossed the lake, stopping on the banks to take in the sights from a lower angle. The charming town was filled with typical Portuguese architecture…homes, businesses and a church…of course!
The Igreja de São Nicolau is a quaint little church which is preceded by a tree-lined path. The single-nave neo-gothic church building has a central bell tower with some nice statues located on the lawn. Though not as grand as the churches I visited in Ponta Delgada, it was still nice to see the simplicity of the structure.
Continuing our journey, we soon found ourselves in Mosteiros, a seaside town on the northwest coast of San Miguel. Looking more like a Hawaiian postcard, this area boasts cliffs, rock formations, a black sand beach and blue water and is a great place to relax for a while. The waters are quite rough and more conducive to surfing than swimming but lifeguards were there to kee watch.
Rounding the northwest corner of the island, we drove through Bretanha, Remédios, Santa Bárbara, Santo António and Capelas, stopping to admire each overlook and the occasional church.
After a quick lunch in Ribeira Grande, we headed south. Our destination was Lagoa de Fogo, yet, we somehow ended up in Furnas. Furnas was on our itinerary for the next day, but we decided to alter our plans and take a look around a bit early.
The village of Furnas is the situated on the easternmost of the three caldera lakes located on San Miguel and boasts the charm of many of the other locales in the Azores.
Famous for its hot springs and the Terra Nostra gardens, it attracts a large number of visitors each day. Since it was later in the day, due to our driving misstep, we decided to skip the natural pools and the gardens and instead drive to the Chapel of Our Lady of Victories, a small funerary chapel located on the southwestern corner of the lake.
Completed in 1886, the chapel was built by José do Canto, a gentleman-farmer, following the death of his wife, Maria Guilhermina Taveira Brum do Canto, from a terminal illness. Located near his summer home on the lake, the chapel was built on an elevation on the embankment and caused quite the stir upon its completion with its high ceilings, pyramid-like spire and stained glass windows.
Upon Canto’s death, he was laid to rest here beside his wife.
The chapel can be viewed from the path alongside the lake but you can also pay 3 euro to enter the José do Canto Forest Garden where you can inspect the chapel up close. The garden has nice trails, one of which leads to a high, narrow waterfall and many of the trees from around the world are labeled and includes a giant sequoia.
Upon your entry from the parking lot, make sure to pay attention to the Garden of Lagoa das Furnas on your left for the figures carved into the trees…it is also a great spot to have a picnic.
After leaving the garden and lake area, we headed over to the Fumarolas da Lagoa das Furnas…the caldeiras on the northern side of the lake. Though there are areas for bathing, we decided to walk around the area. The ground was steaming and there were holes with boiling water beside the raised wooden walkways.
What is most significant about this area is that chefs from several Furnas restaurants prepare a special local meal here at the site. Cozido, a stew that is prepared by being placed inside the caldera, harnesses the heat from the earth and cooks inside the ground. Though we did not get to try the stew, I was told that it tends to smell like sulfur but is quite unique.
As the day was drawing to a close, we made our way back to Ponta Delgado to rest our weary bodies and make our plan for the next day. So much more to see and do!
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Chapel of Our Lady of Victories and José do Canto Forest Garden
- Address: Lagoa das São Miguel, Furnas, Portugal
- Hours: October through March, 0900-1700, April through September, 0900-1900, daily. Closed January 1 and December 25.
- Admission: 3€
Despite my usual attention to detail, I found myself a bit unprepared for this trip, driving out of the airport rental car lot with only a vague map snagged from the rental car company.
Our hotel was easy to find on the harbor in Ponta Delgada, however, our room would not be ready until later that morning. Driving past, we headed east, following the rugged coastline, interspersed with black sand beaches and sapphire waters. Finding ourselves in Lagoa, we marveled at the colorful homes and businesses lining the narrow cobblestone streets and the white stone churches that seemed to be everywhere! It truly seemed that we were in Italy, not Portugal!
Driving through Saõ Roque I spied a beautiful church along the coast. Igreja de Saõ Roque is the main parochial church of the area and includes the Chapel of the Holies, an altar of immense value and decorated in hand-painted azulejo tile. It is also known as the burial place for the grandmother of the Marquês e Pombal.
Re-mastering my little stick-shift (which I had not driven in about 25 years), we cruised along the narrow lanes and sometimes highways, heading wherever…we had no plan in that moment.
Finally, heading back into Ponta Delgada, it was time for check-in and a much needed shower and nap.
Strolling along the main street, we dodged the occasional rain shower, peering into the shops and restaurants and hoping that the dark skies would not open up. Our destination, Fort de Saõ Bras de Ponta Delgada, was situated on the outskirts of the city and I was anxious to spend some time walking along the ramparts and admiring the harbor views.
Constructed in the 17th century, the Renaissance fort’s purpose was to defend the area against pirate raids as well as the Spaniards and the French. During both World Wars, the fort secured the safety of Allied shipping and today acts as a base for the Portuguese navy as well as housing a military museum.
Across the main road, we found the church of Saõ José. Looking like a typical Portuguese church from the outside, it offers a feast for the eyes on the interior. In the early 1500’s the Franciscan Friars built a convent in the location. Construction of the church was began in 1709 and showcases three naves and three chapels, including the Chapels of the Lord of the Thirds and Our Lady of Sorrows. Decorated with rich gilded woodwork, it also features important 18th century blue and white tiles and jacaranda appointments.
Another church, in the adjacent square is Igreja do Santo Cristo. Also exhibiting a beautifully gilded interior, this one threw me for a loop. As I positioned myself discreetly to photograph the altar, I noticed the door opening and a gentleman crawling on hand and knee into the church. Making his way to the rear of the building, he remained prostrate before a gated area. Many after him, came to the gated area and knelt for extended periods of time. Waiting patiently for a spot to open on one of the benches facing the bars, I finally made my way there and took a seat.
I was intrigued…what significance did this church have? After doing a bit of research later that evening, I learned that this chapel houses Senhor Santo Cristo dos Milagres, the wooden image of Christ which represents the Jesus of Nazareth as he was presented to the crowd wearing a crown of thorns on his head and with his bruised, beaten, whipped torso exposed. Created by an unknown artist, the statue is on display here in the church and is used to lead a procession through the city during the city for the festival honoring the Lord Holy Christ of the Miracles on the fifth Sunday after Easter and lasting until Thursday of the Ascension.
The interior was lavishly decorated with carved cedar and other exotic woods and the opulently carved altar and choir stalls guided me around the structure. As I made my way around the church, I was drawn to the age-old paintings from the 17th and 18th centuries, the elegant jacaranda furniture, the glazed tiles and the colorful images of the saints etched onto the windows. In the sacristy, an immensely valuable collection of gold-embroidered liturgical vestments can viewed.
Continuing on, we made our way through the cobblestone streets made of volcanic rock, admiring the beautiful patterns that led the way. So many things diverted our attention…musicians, shops displaying Azorian wares, people spread out in the promenades enjoying the lovely afternoon.
A good night’s rest was definitely needed…tomorrow was to be a day filled with more exploration of this unique and beautiful island.