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Ruins, churches and bones.
There are a lot of these in Cusco.
After our return from Machu Picchu, we were determined to discover everything there was in Cusco. We had explored the ruins, now it was time for the churches and bones.
On the first day of our arrival, we had walked through the Plaza San Francisco. Intrigued by the church there, I had walked over and tried the door. It was locked, so I figured we would return on another day.
After perusing maps and information on things to do in the city, I discovered that the church was connected to a monastery and convent and was open to the public for guided tours. This was something I wanted to see…and see how it compared to the San Francisco Monastery in Lima.
As we walked down the hill from our hotel, we entered the plaza and made our way to the museum’s entrance. Paying our entrance fee, we waited patiently for the guide to take us through the property.
After a brief introduction, he uttered those words I hate…”pictures are not allowed”.
Nooooooooooooooooooooooo!
Built in 1572 by the order of Viceroy Francisco de Toledo, the monastery was used until 1650, when an earthquake damaged the property. Restoration put it back into operation until the present, however, where there were once 180 Franciscan monks living on the premises, only three remain.
We were guided through the two-storied property which includes cloisters, a choir, library, refectory, chapels and the church. Many of the paintings are in need of restoration but one of the highlights is the monumental canvas measuring 12 x 9 which depicts the genealogy of the Franciscan family by Juan Espinoza de los Monteros. Allegedly, this painting is the largest in Latin America!
Original carvings and religious artwork, chests, manuscripts and books fill the rooms and I was both mesmerized by what I was seeing, but also disappointed that I could not capture most of it, but for the occasional stolen photo when our guide was not looking.
As we stood in the choir loft of the church, carved of cedar by local Franciscan Friar Luis Montes, Isisdro Fernandez Inka and Antonio Paz, we admired what we could see below in the dimly lit space…the Latin cross plan with three naves and topped with a high square tower. Inquiring of the opening hours so that I might return, we were told that although hours were posted, they are not always reliable.
Continuing on, our guide brought us to the library, filled with massive texts, many of which are extremely valuable. A vast number of books are also housed elsewhere and the space is lit by natural lighting entering from the large, floor-to-ceiling windows.
Finally, we were led to the catacombs which contain the remains of several unknown locals from ancient periods. The first cemetery built in the city, the bones are lined on each side of the hallways located beneath the church. We were led down a stairway in one of the rooms to a cave-like space. Also filled with bones, they were arranged, though not as beautifully as others I have seen, such as in the Capuchin Crypt in Rome and San Bernardino alle Ossa in Milan. An altar honoring Saint Francis of Assisi was also present here and shockingly, I was allowed to take pictures.
Eventually, we were deposited back in the cloisters and left to explore the gardens. Pictures were also allowed, so we snapped a few selfies, to placate my need to capture the moment.
Though many only use Cusco as a stepping stone for their visit to Machu Picchu, there is much to explore in the once historic capital of the Inca Empire. The monastery is centrally located and requires only a short amount of time…take advantage of it!
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San Francisco de Asís Monastery
- Address: Jirón Lampa, Distrito de Lima, Peru, Cusco. Located in the Plaza San Francisco, near the National School of Sciences.
- Hours: Museum, Monday to Friday, 0900-1200 and 1500-1745. Saturday, 0900-1200. Closed Sunday and holidays. Church, Monday to Saturday, 0630 to 2000. Sunday, 0630-1200 and 1700-2000.
- Admission: Museum, General, S / 15.00, National Student, S / 3.00. Church, free admission