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There is no shortage of churches in Cusco.
In fact, with so many in such close proximity, it is possible to fill your day with a self-guided walking tour, hitting on some of the major temples, beginning with Iglesia de Santo Domingo on Calle Santo Domingo, heading to Plaza de Armas to visit Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus, Iglesia del Triunfo, La Catedral, Iglesia de Jesus Maria, on to Iglesia de Santa Teresa and Iglesia de la Merced, a block away, and then Iglesia de San Francisco, Iglesia de Santa Clara and Iglesia de San Pedro a short stroll from the plaza.
These churches, some dating back to the mid 1500’s, offer spectacular insight on both the Inca and Spanish colonial cultures.
The Cathedral of Cusco (Basilica Cathedral of the Virgin of Asuncion), dominates the Plaza de Armas and I was anxious to visit this massive structure. Finding that a ticket (the Boleto Religioso) could be purchased that offers admission to not only the cathedral, but to two other churches, Templo San Blas and the Church of San Cristobal and the Museum of Religious Art, I decided that this would be a great way to not only see some of the amazing religious sites of Cusco, but some of the parts of the city in between.
Long before the Cathedral stood on its present location, the Kiswarkancha stood in the main square. Built by the Incas, the Kiswarkancha was the palace of Viracocha, the ruler of the Kingdom of Cusco. As the Spanish conquistadors arrived, however, they made the decision to demolish the palace and build a cathedral on the site, in order to wipe out the Inca religion and promote the spread of Christianity.
Lasting for almost a century, construction began in 1559 and was completed by utilizing an involuntary Incan workforce. Most of the stones used in the construction was taken from Sacsayhuaman, again with the idea of desecrating another of the Inca’s religious sites. Once the Spaniards learned that the sand located on the building site was also considered holy, they demanded that it be used in the mortar.
Standing before this mighty structure, flanked by its two solid towers and sidled by the Iglesia del Triunfo and Church of Jesus, Mary and Joseph, it’s easy to forget its sordid beginnings.
As we entered and paid our admission, once again, I noticed that photography was not allowed. No…not even without a flash.
After we began our self-guided tour and began to see the unimaginable beauty presented in this “Mother Church”, I was even more disappointed about the No Photography rule.
The sprawling cathedral has eleven chapels, one vestry, one chapter house, seven altarpieces, one choir, over three hundred paintings, various carvings and sculptures. Offering characteristics of Gothic, Renaissance, Mannerist and Baroque architecture, from start to finish, the artistic detail offered in every nook and cranny is a feast for the eye. Baroque, Neoclassical and Renaissance details are displayed on the two altars and magnificent woodworking is displayed on the pulpits and choir stalls. Of the two altars, the original lambran (alder-tree) is located at the back and the neoclassical embossed silver altar in front, which is currently used.
The sacristy, one of the most decorated parts of the cathedral, displays a large collection of 18th paintings by Marcos Zapata, including his version of the Last Supper which presents the main dish of roast guinea pig, and portraits of Cusco’s bishops, beginning with Vicente de Valverde, the first resident bishop of Cusco who accompanied Francisco Pizarro on his conquests. A large, dark painting of the crucifixion, is also presented here, thought to be painted by either Dutch artist, Anthony van Dyck or Spanish artist Alonso Cano. Other important paintings by Basilio Santa Cruz Pumacallo and Basilio Pacheco can also be seen in the cathedral as well as the oldest surviving painting in Cusco, depicting the the ancient city during the 1650 earthquake where the townspeople are seen carrying a crucifix in the Plaza de Armas, praying for the natural disaster to end. Diego Quispe Tito’s Christ’s 12 Parables is particularly noteworthy as this incomplete collection depicts the twelve months and zodiac symbols of the year, incorporating the parables of Jesus into the pictures.
A most intriguing relic is the wooden crucifix, the Black Christ, discolored from centuries of smoke and dust emitted from burning candles. When the cathedral was restored in the 1990s, the crucifix was not cleaned. Every year, during the Lord of Miracles Procession during Holy Week, the crucifix is taken outdoors to commemorate the earthquake of 1650.
Another spectacular piece, which can be spied from the outside, in the north tower, is the famous Maria Angola bell. Weighing over 13,000 pounds and standing just over seven feet, the bell, cast in 1659 was named, according to local tradition, after an Angolan slave who threw gold into the crucible where the bell was being made. Now cracked, it is only rung on special occasions and can be heard reportedly from more than 20 miles away.
The cathedral attracts thousands of visitors each year and includes a visit to the adjoining Church of Triumph (Iglesia del Triunfo) which was built in 1538, three years after the conquistadors settled in Cusco. The statue of St. James, slaying an Inca, sits atop the church as a tribute to the belief that this patron saint of Spain played a major role in the Spanish miraculously driving back the Incas during a siege from 1533 and 1536.
Also attached to the church, and included in the visit to the cathedral, is the Church of Jesus, Mary and Joseph, a great place to see the art work of colonial Peruvian Inca artists.
Walking slowly throughout the premises, we attempted to soak in as much of the amazing craftsmanship as we could while I took an occasional photo on the sly. Be wary, however, there are cameras located throughout the church and workers who are not easily identifiable will ask you to put away your phone or camera. Though I was only caught once, I can not say for sure whether or not a guest would be asked to leave for continuing to disobey the rule.
Whether or not churches are of interest to you, make sure to put the Cathedral on your agenda during your visit to Cusco, as well as the other churches and museum included with the combination ticket. With a museum-like quality, you will surely be fascinated by not only its history, but by the intriguing architecture, craftsmanship and artwork on display here.
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Cathedral of Cusco (Basilica Cathedral of the Virgin of Asuncion)
- Address: Plaza de Armas
- Hours: 1000 to 1800, daily.
- Admission: Adult, S /. 25.00 (about $7.38 US). Student: S /. 12.50 (about $3.70 US). Admission also with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).
Museum of Religious Art
- Address: Located on the corner of Hatunrumiyoq Street and Herrajes street.
- Hours: 0800-1800, daily.
- Admission: Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US). Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US). Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating three other churches ), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US). Also included with the Cusco Tourist Ticket.
Templo San Blas
- Address: Plazoleta de San Blas, Cusco
- Hours: 1000-1800, daily
- Admission: Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US). Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US). Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).
Church of San Cristobal
- Address: Avenue Don Bosco
- Hours: 1000-1800, daily
- Admission: Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US). Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US). Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).