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Although most people aspire to visit Machu Picchu when heading down to Cusco, many do not realize that there are other archaeological sites near Cusco that are equally as important.
Q’enqo.
Puka Pukara.
Tambomachay.
Sexy Woman.
Wait, what?
Ok…Sacsayhuamán.
Comprised of the words Saqsay, meaning satiated or filled and waman, meaning hawk, Sacsayhuaman is a mouthful, but much easier to pronounce if you say it like “Sexy Woman”!
After our exhausting trip to Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu, we decided to sleep in the next morning and spend the day seeing some sights in Cusco. But, after the early wake-up calls the last few mornings, sleeping in meant, 9:00 a.m. Our bodies, so used to rising early, wanted no part of a late morning.
Deciding to check out the archaeological ruins in Cusco, we were not really sure if we could purchase the ticket which incorporated the four sites at Sacsayhuamán’s ticket office, so we headed into town to the Tourist Gallery, to purchase the tickets before grabbing a cab to the citadel.
A friend had recommended securing a guide at Sacsayhuamán and we did just that once we arrived. Edmundo was extremely friendly and most informative, guiding us through the UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Building of the citadel began around 1100 after the Killke culture had occupied the area for 200 years. Expanded by the Inca from the 13th century, huge, dry stone walls were constructed with boulders cut so precisely that they were fitted together with no mortar.
With its location so high above Cusco, the fortress was well protected and was extremely important to the area’s militia.
As we walked through the large plaza area, Edmundo explained that it was capable of holding thousands of people and was designed for ceremonial activities. The massive terrace walls were the main attraction here, however. The stones used in the wall’s constructions are among the largest used in any building in pre-Hispanic American and so precisely cut and fitted that not even a piece of paper can be inserted between them. The longest wall is approximately 400 meters long and 6 meters tall and appears to be a sort of three dimensional jigsaw puzzle with its largest stone weighing more than 360 tons and 29 feet high. Edmundo pointed out many stones that were cut and placed, forming shapes…a puma’s paw, a llama, a snake, a guinea pig and a bird…shapes we would never have seen had we not had a guide.
As we were guided through the Terrace Gateway, we walked up the stairways to the upper terraces. The views of Cusco from this area were spectacular and we admired the city below noting major landmarks, Plaza de Armas, La Catedral, Iglesia de La Compaña de Jesús. It was explained to us that Cusco was laid out in the shape of a puma and Sacsayhuamán makes up the head with its jagged walls representing its teeth.
As we stood high over the city, the sky darkened and lightening began to flash. So exposed to the elements, we were a bit nervous, however, as accustomed to the ever-changing weather, Edmundo continued his monologue, guiding us through the site, informing us that Sacsayhuamán once had three towers and a labyrinth of rooms large enough to accommodate 5,000 Inca soldiers.
Making our way back down to the parade ground, where the Inti Raymi winter solstice festival is held every June and attended by tens of thousand of spectators, we crossed the massive area over to the Rodadero which was believed to be the religious and ceremonial section. Most of the structures once at the Rodadero were torn down by the Spaniards and later inhabitants of Cusco. We were led down below ground through a passage, ducking our heads to make our way through and emerging above ground in another area. Fun as that was, the best part was coming across the high, smooth rocks that descended in a wavy pattern. Edmundo led me carefully uphill and had me sit. Scooting forward, I began to slide down, faster and faster until I reached the bottom! Yes, the Incas surely must have had fun on this!
Finally, our tour came to an end and Edmundo directed us out of the back of the property to the road leading to Q’enqo and the path to The Christ Statue, our next two stops. Pointing out some restaurants that we could grab a bit to eat, he bid us goodbye.
Though Machu Picchu’s and Pisac’s breathtaking locales lend to their attraction, we really enjoyed visiting Sacsayhuamán, for the preciseness and original Inca architecture. We learned a great deal from Edmundo and I recommend a guide so as not to miss some of the most impressive features of this amazing site. Remember…much of Machu Picchu has been rebuilt, but the massive original stones of Sacsayhuamán, have withstood the test of time.
Stones, stones and more stones, but we may have seen a sexy woman or two…
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Partial Tour Tickets-Sacsayhuaman, Q’enqo, Puka Pukara, Tambomachay
- http://www.cosituc.gob.pe
- Ticket Office Address: Av El Sol 103, Tourist Galleries, Of. 101, Cusco, Peru
- Hours: Monday to Saturday, 0800-1800, Sundays and holidays, 0800-1300
- Ticket prices: Circuit I, Sacsayhuaman, Q’enqo, Puka Pukara, Tambomachay, S/. 70, General, (about $21 US), S/. 40, Students, (about $12 US). Circuit II, Regional Historical Museum, Museum of Contemporary Art, Folk Art Museum, Koricancha Site Museum, Native Art Center Qosqo, Monument to the Inca Pachacutec, S/. 70, General, (about $21 US), S/. 40, Students, (about $12 US). Circuit III, Sacred Valley of the Incas sites, Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Chinchero, Moray, S/. 70, General, (about $21 US), S/. 40, Students, (about $12 US). Cusco Touristic Ticket, allows admission to 16 sites in Cusco, the nearby Sacred Valley and the South Valley, Cusco Tourist Ticket Integral – BTCL, S/. 130 (about $39 US). Cusco Tourist Ticket Integral for students-BEE, S/. 70 (about $21 US).
- Getting There: On foot, you can walk to Sacsayhuaman (and the adjacent Christ Statue) from Cusco, about 30-40 minutes, uphill. Walk from Plaza de Armas to the first ruin, Sacsayhuamán, by taking the road that runs along the right side of the Cathedral, and then turning left on Choqechaka road. Walk along the road and then take a right on the Atoc’sekuchi staircase. Climb the staircase until you reach a main road, where you will turn left. Walk along the road for a few minutes, and you’ll see the Cristo Rey statue. Turn left on the gravel road just past it and continue along it through a field to the entrance to Sacsayhuamán. By cab (recommended), S/. 10 (about $3 US). You also can negotiate with a driver who can wait and drive you to each of the other sites. After walking to the Christ Statue, I negotiated a rate of S/. 50 soles for the driver to take us to Q’enqo, Puka Pukara, Tambomachay and back to Plaza de Armas. We negotiated that the driver wait at each site for 20 minutes. However, with cabs being plentiful, you can use separate taxis as all of the ruins are situated along the main highway to Pisac. Taxi from Sacsayhuamán to Q’enqo, about S/. 5 (about $1.50 US). Taxi from Q’enqu to Puka Pukara, about S/. 8 (about $2.25 US). You can walk from Puka Pukara to Tambomachay. In addition to taxi to return to town, you can also flag down the next bus passing Tambomachay for S/. 1 (about $.30 US).