Training Days

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There are three ways to get to Machu Picchu.

Hiking the Inca Trail.

By private van or bus to the town of Hydroelectrico and hike three hours.

By train.

Perusing the different options, we immediately knew that on our vacation, we didn’t want to do any major hiking, not knowing how we would react to the altitude.  So, train it was!

Having opted to catch the train from the nearby Poroy Station, we set out early in the morning by taxi.  As we neared the station, our cab driver attempted to communicate with us and with his limited Spanish, we were concerned that he was lost.  Finally, as we pulled into the station parking lot, we learned that he wanted to know our return time the next night so he could pick us up.  As I negotiated the price, I felt some relief knowing that upon our arrival, we would not have to hope for transportation back to our hotel.

With plenty of time to spare, we bought waters and made ourselves as comfortable as possible, watching the boarding process for the Explorer train, leaving a bit earlier than ours.  We had packed light, discovering that Peru Rail, prefers smaller bags and left the our larger bags checked at our hotel, which we would return to the next night, yet it was interesting to see others with larger suitcases.  Maybe they were staying in Aguas Calientes for a longer period of time.  Maybe they don’t know how to pack light.  Still, it was freeing to be traveling with only a backpack.   Eventually, our departure time neared and we took our place in line, eager to see what the Vistadome train offered.

Having assigned seating provided no stress about finding seats together and we were excited to see the seats across the table unoccupied.  As the train pulled out from the station, we were tired from our long day in the Sacred Valley, our short night and were eager to get more sleep.  We soon found our curiosity about the surrounding countryside superseded the need to doze.

The train was extremely comfortable with large, leather seats, lots of leg room and huge windows, offering spectacular views of the passing scenery.  Not long after our departure, the crew came into the aisle, giving me momentary pause, reminding me of my own job.  Snacks and beverages were offered and were quite delicious.

After everything was cleared away, I marveled at the towns we glided by and the people going about their daily routines…traditionally dressed women, children walking to school, villagers working in the fields and hikers and sherpas and hikers setting out on the Inca trail.

Soon, we neared Ollantaytambo and the train slowed, pulling into the station.  Though we had been able to enjoy our table alone for the first part of the journey, we were soon joined by a couple from Spain.  Though pleasantries were exchanged at their arrival, it was evident that their English was not good enough to maintain a conversation, so I occupied myself with trying to capture what I was seeing on my camera.

Almost four hours from the start of our journey in Poroy, we felt the train slowing once again as we pulled into the station at Aguas Calientes, Machu Picchy Station.  So excited to begin our exploration of a new part of Peru, we grabbed our bags and headed out, eager to see what this small town had to offer.

Flash forward…after exploring Aguas Calientes and Machu Picchu, we returned to the Machu Picchu station for our return to Cusco.

The train station was quite busy and a little confusing.  My husband and I were not sure if we were in the correct boarding spot and had to verify with station personnel.

Finally, we boarded and made ourselves comfortable in our seats at the middle of the train.  The other couple sharing our table was from England, most interesting to chat with and we were able to compare stories of our time at Machu Picchu.

As with our trip to Aguas Calientes, complimentary sandwiches and beverages were offered and later, alcoholic beverages and snacks were available for purchase.

Once the trolleys were put away, we were informed that we would be treated to a fashion show.  Our attendants came through the aisles, one at a time, wearing alpaca sweaters, shawls, capes and scarves.  They demonstrated the flexibility of each piece, which were also available for sale.

Deciphering an announcement made over the P.A., I understood something about a demon.  A little confused, I looked at my husband, and told him that I must have misunderstood what I was hearing.  Music began to play and a brightly garbed character wearing a demonic mask with long, blonde hair came running from the galley, dancing and leaping through the aisle.

What we learned from this amusing spectacle is that it is called, The Diablada or Danza de los Diablos (Dance of the Demons), an original dance from Peru and Bolivia which is characterized by the mask and devil suit worn by the performer.  It is a religious, theatrical dance honoring spirits and used as a symbol for the country’s indigenous cultural identity.

Since it had grown darker outside and we were unable to see the beautiful scenery, it was a welcome distraction.  We clapped and laughed at the demon’s antics and enjoyed his dances with various patrons.

Finally, the train slowed and we were arriving in Cusco.

Our driver was waiting with our name on a sign and as exhausted as we were from our extended day, we were glad that we had arranged to have him there to greet us.

Many people want the entire experience of hiking to Machu Picchu, although this is not for everyone, especially those with mobility issues.  Though I think it would have been a unique adventure, I am not sure I would have enjoyed the hiking portion, probably arriving at Machu Picchu much too exhausted to actually enjoy it.

Anyone who wants to visit Machu Picchu should consider the one of the train lines for at least half of the trip, very efficient and comfortable, it was absolutely worth the price of a ticket!

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Peru Rail

Inca Rail

 

 

 

 

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