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“I am a sucker for a beautiful church.”
Anyone who has read through my blog, knows this statement to be entirely true. Actually, I love all religious institutions, for their differences in ornamentation, their unique history and for the many beliefs and people that they represent. I love basilicas, chapels, cathedrals, synagogues, temples, mosques and pagodas. When I see a church, I want to see the interior…what makes it different from others that I have visited? Does it have a saint interred there? Relics on display? Beautiful stained glass? Paintings by a famed artist? Maybe this has a lot to do with the fact that I studied architecture in college…or maybe it has to do with my love of photography and all of the beautiful photographic opportunities each building offers…maybe it has to do with the fact that entry into most institutions is free and therefore, easy on the touristy pocketbook!
The Church of St. Nicholas, the most famous Baroque church in Prague, is located in the center of the Lesser Town Square. Not to be confused with the other two St. Nicholas churches in Prague, one of which is located in Old Town Square, it is a most prominent and distinctive landmark with it’s green dome is visible from all over the city. I have walked by it countless times, but usually in transit to another destination with no extra time to stop and visit.
Upon entering the Church of St. Nicholas, we found that this particular institution does charge an admission fee for entry, unlike many others, however, at a cost of 70 CZK (about $3.00 U.S.) it’s not an extremely hefty one. Still, I do not agree with paying to see the inside of a church that has an active congregation. Paying a few dollars to see the inside of a well renowned landmark will not kill me, but hey, free is free!
After stepping away from the ticket counter and preparing my camera, we began making our way into the church. I think I held my breath a little in anticipation of what we would find as we stepped inside. And there it was! Worth the 70 CZK admission? You bet!
The construction of the Church of St. Nicholas began in 1703, lasted approximately one hundred years and employed three generations of great Baroque architects…father, son and son-in-law…Kryštof Dientzenhofer, Kilián Ignác Dientzenhofer and Anselmo Lurago. It was used by the Russian orthodox congregation from 1870-1914, used as a warehouse and housed a garrison at one time.
When entering, your eyes venture upward toward the ceiling and the 70 meter high dome which is decorated with a magnificent fresco of the Celebration of the Holy Trinity by Franz Palko. Other frescos by Jan Lukas Kracker are also worth closer inspection. After heading upstairs, you have a closer view of the grand ceiling fresco and the nave from the viewing gallery that runs along the left side of the church.
The interior is richly decorated with sculptures by František Ignác Platzer, many paintings and the side chapels abundantly adorned in gold.
The main organ, with a beautiful fresco of St. Cecilia, patron saint of music, above it, was built from 1745-1747. It has over 4,000 pipes up to six meters in length and was most famously played by Mozart during his stay in Prague in 1787.
The belfry was the last part of St. Nicholas to be built and was constructed by Anselmo Lurago from 1751-1756, though designed by his father in law. As high as the church’s adjacent dome, it does not actually belong to the church but rather the Lesser Town. Interestingly, the tower was used during the 1960’s by the state police to spy on the western countries embassies nearby. This I learned, was something interesting to see, despite the additional climb, but it wasn’t until after our visit that we learned that it was included in our admission. (Nor did we ever see the entrance) Reading up on the church’s history after our trip, I discovered that visitors are allowed to ascend the tower’s 215 steps, during the day, to experience the splendid views over Malá Strana and across the Vltava River to the Old Town.
The Church of St. Nicholas is not to be missed in Prague, the Czech Republic or even Europe. One to rival anything that I have visited previously, it is worth the price of admission..maybe even a bit more. Allow plenty of time to explore the church in it’s entirety…just don’t miss the tower! I’ve already put aside my 70 CZK so that I can stop in and check it out on my next visit!
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St. Nicholas Church
- http://www.stnicholas.cz/
- Address: St. Nicholas Church Lesser Town Square, Lesser Town Square, Lesser Town, Prague 1, Czech Republic
- Hours: March-October, 0900-1700, daily, November-February, 0900-1600, daily
- Admission: Adults, 70 CZK, Students (10-26 years), 50 CZK, Children (under 10), free
- How To Get There: Tram stop, Malostranske namesti (trams 12, 20, 22)