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Edinburgh Castle…”the most besieged place in Great Britain and one of the most attacked in the world”.
Although the castle’s origins as a residence date back to the 12th century, with the reign of David I, Edinburgh Castle only retained a residential role until the 15th century, later transitioning into military barracks and garrison. It was considered one of the most important strongholds in the Kingdom of Scotland and was involved in many historical conflicts. Recent research identified 26 sieges in the castle’s 1100 year old history.
Today, the castle proudly hosts dozens of tourists each day, each lining up to enter the well preserved fortress. Years ago, during my first visit to Edinburgh, I spent time exploring the castle’s grounds. Back in Edinburgh after many years, I decided that I would visit again. During this winter afternoon, with the sun low in the sky, I didn’t realize that I would be back again in a few weeks!
For my afternoon visit, I arrived around three o’clock, and walked under the entrance gate to the ticket counter. There were no lines and I was quickly rediscovering the castle grounds and buildings.
A few weeks later, taking my son to Scotland for his birthday, I absolutely knew that even though I had just visited, it was something that he would undoubtedly enjoy.
On our second day, we arrived at the castle for its opening. The sun, just coming up over the horizon, gave us spectacular views of the city. We secured our position in the queue lined up on the castle esplanade and proceeded to the ticket counter when the gate was opened.
The castle offers many different buildings, museums and vantage points. We began our exploration by climbing the Lang Stairs to the Argyle Tower. Not much to see within the tower, we moved on to Mon’s Meg, the Dog Cemetery and St. Margaret’s Cathedral.
We first observed the Cemetery for Soldier’s Dogs, the final resting place for the honored canine companions of the regimental officers. Dating back to 1840, the grassy area is protected and only viewed from above.
Adjacent to the cemetery overlook is Mon’s Meg, a medieval bombard and one of the largest cannons in the world (by caliber). This cannon was built in 1449 as a gift to James II, King of Scots from Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy. It was used in many sieges until the 16th century and spent some time in the Tower of London until it was returned in 1829.
Moving into St. Margaret’s Chapel, we found it blissfully empty. With a surface area of only 160 square feet, it was nice not having to jockey for position with other tourists to capture nice photos and enjoy the beauty of the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh. The 12th century chapel, was spared the wrath of Robert the Bruce when the castle was captured on March 14, 1314 and all buildings in the castle were destroyed. The chapel, restored and now cared for by the St. Margaret’s Chapel Guild is well worth a short visit, especially for the five stained glass windows of St. Margaret of Scotland, St. Andrew, St. Columbia, St. Ninian and William Wallace, all designed by Douglas Strachan in 1922.
Moving on, we checked out the Fore Well and the Half Moon Battery before moving past David’s Tower into Crown Square. The buildings surrounding Crown Square consist of the Royal Palace, housing the Crown Jewels, the Great Hall, the Prisons of War Exhibition (access from the rear, outside of the square) and the Scottish National War Memorial.
The Royal Palace, built during the mid 15th century, comprises the former royal apartments though void of furniture as other palaces are sometimes exhibited. The most notable room is the small Birth Chamber or Mary Room, where James VI was born to Mary, Queen of Scots in June 1566. The first floor is comprised of the Crown Room, built in 1615, to showcase the Honors of Scotland; the crown, scepter and the sword of state. There are many pictures and displays detailing the history of Scotland’s monarchy, which eventually lead you to the area containing the protected room, which also contains the Stone of Scone, upon which the monarchs of Scotland were traditionally crowned. No pictures are allowed in this building.
To the north of the Royal Palace lies the Great Hall. Thought to have been completed in the 16th century, the lengthy expanse, measuring 95 feet by 41 feet, was the chief place of state assembly in the castle. Occasionally still used for ceremonial occasions, the room is lacking furniture but its walls are lined with impressive antique swords and suits of armor.
To the Great Hall’s south, is the Scottish National War Memorial, which occupies a converted barrack block and stands on the site of the Medieval St. Mary’s Church. When entering the building, pay note to the gargoyles and sculpture that decorate the exterior. The interior is a long massive space, with a high vaulted ceiling, stained glass windows (designed by Douglas Strachan) and monuments commemorating Scottish soldiers; those who served with the Scottish regiments and those who died in the two world wars and in recent conflicts. On an altar within the Shrine (placed on the highest point of the Castle Rock) rests a sealed casket containing Rolls of Honour which list over 147,000 names of those soldiers killed in the First World War. Another 50,000 names were inscribed on Rolls of Honour and line the walls of the main hall. No pictures are allowed within the building.
Exiting Crown Square, we made our way to the Prisons of War Exhibition. This exhibition displays some interesting pieces of history, including doors inscribed with the names of past prisoners as well as a walk-thru mock-up of prison quarters.
Across from the Prisons of War Exhibition is the Military Prison. Reconstructed cells give us the impression of the conditions prisoners dealt with daily. The upgraded conditions display what was at the time an example of enlightened prison reform.
Two adjacent museums, the Royal Scots Regimental Museum and the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards Regimental Museum are open daily and included with your admission to the castle. Both are interesting if you are into military history and worth a quick look around even if you are not.
The Royal Scots Regimental Museum offers over 300 years of history of the only Scottish cavalry regiment in the British regular Army. It showcases a large medal display (so large that only a selection is on view), collections of silver, sets of drums, descriptions of contemporary life in the Army and significant national and world events of the relevant period.
The Royal Scots Dragoon Guards Regimental Museum features a large offering of weapons, uniforms, medals and paintings which portray the story of the past regiments that formed or were associated with the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards, including 3rd Dragoons Guards (Prince of Wale’s Own), 6th Dragoon Guards (The Carabiniers), 3rd Carabiniers (Prince of Wale’s Dragoon Guards), the Royal Scots Greys (2nd Dragoons) and 25th Dragoons.
After leaving these two museums, we walked past the Governor’s House and turned left to the entrance of National War Museum. The story of Scotland at war is told here along with the story of the battles that were lost and won. Many military artifacts and personal treasures are on display. Again, this museum is free with your entrance ticket to the castle and is worth a look around. By this point in the day, however, we were getting a bit tired of the museum setting and hungry, so we made it a quick visit.
Our last visit was one that we would be able to not only see, but hear…the One O’clock Gun. The origins of the firing of the gun stem from the days before accurate timepieces were available. Ships sailing in the Firth of Forth were able to check and reset their chronometers by the firing of a gun at one o’clock each day. The gun could easily be heard in the harbor, two miles away. Today, the gun is not longer required for its original purpose but it has become a popular tourist attraction at the north face of the castle. We stopped for a quick peek at the 25 pound Howitzer, however, unfortunately, we were not on the premises during the firing. We left the castle not long after taking in the views from the Argyle Battery. As we were finishing our lunch, we heard the One O’clock Gun being fired in the distance.
Our trip to the Edinburgh Castle was a wonderful way to learn the history of the city. The most famous icon of Scotland is not the most besieged place in Great Britain or the most attacked place in the world any longer. It is Scotland’s number one paid-for tourist attraction and should be the first stop for any visitor to the Scottish city.
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Edinburgh Castle
- http://www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk/
- Address: The Castle, Edinburgh EH1 2YT
- Hours: 0930-1800, April 1 thru September 30, 0930-1700, October 1 thru March 31, Closed December 25 and 26, 1100-1700, January 1
- Admission: Adults, £16.50, Children 0-15, £9.50, Concessions (60+ and unemployed), £13.50
Royal Scots Dragoon Guard Regimental Museum
- https://www.scotsdgmuseum.com/
- Address: The Castle, Edinburgh EH1 2YT
- Hours: 0930-1615, October 1 thru Easter, 0930-1715, Easter thru September 30
Royal Scots Regimental Museum
- http://www.theroyalscots.co.uk/museum/
- Address: Edinburgh Castle, Castle Hill, Castlehill Edinburgh Eh12Ng, Edinburgh EH2NG
- Hours: 0930-1700, Monday thru Friday (summer), 0930-1730, Saturday and Sunday (summer), 0930-1600, Monday thru Friday (winter), 0930-1630, Saturday and Sunday (winter)
National War Museum
- http://www.nms.ac.uk/national-war-museum/
- Address: Edinburgh Castle, Edinburgh EH1 2NG
- Hours: 0945-1745, April 1 thru September 30, 0945-1645, 0ctober 1 thru March 31, Closed December 25 and 26, 1100-1700, January 1
