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You know the saying…”the glass is half full”?
My husband is that kind of guy…always sees the bright spot!
While my husband could have been upset that I only allotted a condensed visit to Murano during our day, he was elated that he would have any time there at all. My birthday, my decision…he had agreed to this plan! So…glass half full!
Revisiting Murano was not high on my list. Twice before, I had called upon the island, most recently, the week before. Both times, I had been part of a tour and was taken immediately to one of the glass blowing demonstrations in one of the workshops on the Grand Canal of Murano. With limited time, because of the presentation, my impression of Murano was not optimum. Not having time to do much exploration, the only thing I could associate with it was a dark, cramped (and hot) workspace, filled with other tourists, holding up their iPhone (me included), trying to document a master glassblower manipulate molten glass into a small pony. Then, being ushered into the crowded giftshop so that I could buy a replica of that breakable steed.
Arriving from Burano, we disembarked onto the Murano Faro dock and had a wonderful view of the tall, elegant lighthouse that was built in 1934. Walking down Calle Bressagio, we passed the Oratorio Ex ospizio Briati, a chapel which was the former Carmelite convent and followed the street until we reached the canal along Fondamenta Manin, where we browsed the many souvenir shops that line the waterway.
A building across the canal caught my eye and I quickly ushered my husband across the bridge….the Church of Saint Peter Martyr. This ancient church was originally built in 1348 with a Dominican convent and was dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. After a fire in 1474, it was rebuilt to its current state and was one of the two main parish churches on the island of Murano that I planned to visit.
Church of Saint Peter Martyr
The church contains some important works by Tintoretto (Baptism of Christ), Giovanni Bellini (Assumption with Saints and Barbarigo Altarpiece), Giovane (San Nicolo, Santa Lucia, San Carlo Borromeo), Paolo Veronese (Saint Jerome in the Desert), Giovanni Agostino da Lodi (Barcaioli Altarpiece) and Guisseppe Porta (Deposition from the Cross). In the right wing is the Ballarin Chapel, built in 1506 and named after the famous glassmaker from Murano. It is a humble church, but warm and welcoming.
Continuing our explorations, strangely enough, we found ourselves at the Guarnieri Glass Factory. It wasn’t one of the factories that I had visited previously, but it also wasn’t something that I had really desired to experience again. As we approached the arched entrance, decorated with beautiful glass roses, a gentleman greeted us warmly. The factory was about to close, but he agreed to ask the master craftsman if he would do one more demonstration for us. Although this man seemed reluctant, no doubt ready to retreat to his air conditioned home for a nice dinner, he agreed after another couple approached.
Sweating profusely in the intense heat, he shaped a beautiful stallion, much more elegant that the ones I had witnessed being sculpted at the other demonstrations. For his final act, a glass bubble was blown and popped, signaling his departure!
I must admit, while it was not something I had wished to do again, it was quite nice to be one of only two couples in attendance and I later learned that this is one of the best places to seek out this experience. The outstanding thing about it, however, was that before leaving, I ended up with a beautiful necklace from the gift shop! A splendid birthday gift!
Murano boasted an impressive landscape along its hidden streets and central canals…stunning Italian architecture, cobblestone streets and occasional handblown glass exhibits randomly placed in courtyards throughout. While we never did make it to the other church that I so desired to see, Duomo Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato, we enjoyed the impressive scenery that we encountered.
It was getting late in the afternoon at this point and the sun’s slanted rays led to an ambiance that I had never experienced in Murano having visited earlier in the day. Entranced with the deepening of the colors along the canals, I actually hated to leave. Indubitably a much different Murano, one I would choose to return to again.
As we boarded the water taxi for our return to Venice, we found the ride to be much more enjoyable with the heat of the day diminishing. In fact, a cool breeze made our ride quite refreshing especially since we were able to snag a spot on the outside deck. Cruising between the islands, the sunlight glittered on the waters as we passed Cimitero di San Michele, the 10th century cemetery christened after the resident Church of Saint Michael. Entering the canals of Venice, we passed elegant bridges spanning its width, and spied architecture, palpable in late afternoon sunshine, while tourists strolled the banks searching for their dinner destination.
These tourists would be us later, celebrating my birthday and the glass would definitely be full…of my favorite Italian beer!
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Church of Saint Peter Martyr
- Address: Fondamenta dei Vetrai, 30141 Venezia VE, Italy
- Hours: Unknown
- Admission: free
Guarnieri Vetreria Artistica
- Address: Fondamenta Serenella, 11, 30141 Venezia VE, Italy
- Hours: Monday to Friday, 0900-1800, Saturday, 0900-1645, Sunday, Closed
- Admission: free