Where the Deer and the Tourists Play

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The Acropolis…check.

Tulum…check.

Ta Prohm…check.

The Coliseum…check.

Petra…check.

Over the years, my eyes have gazed upon some pretty impressive ruins.  Withstanding the test of time (well almost) these magnificent and sometimes mysterious remains mesmerize and captivate.

Honestly, I can’t resist visiting any ruin…big or small…ancient or not so old.  The lure of its history and remaining architecture always draws me in, so when I noticed the words “ruin” on my map of St. John, I knew that I had to find time to see what was there.

Cinnamon Bay Plantation ruins lie just across North Shore Road, directly opposite the appropriately named Cinnamon Bay.  Parking in the Cinnamon Bay Beach parking lot, cross the road to the beginning of the Cinnamon Bay loop trail and begin your exploration of the historic plantation’s sugar factory’s remains.

An important part of St. John’s history dates back to 1717, when the Danes settled on the island.  Founded by Daniel Jensen, the plantation processed sugar cane from the fields into sugar, molasses and rum.  While wandering through the Bay, Calabash and Genip trees, you can observe the horse mill where the juice was extracted from the cut cane stalks, the boiling house, where rows of copper kettles continually condensed the syrup to crystal form and the store rooms or “bagasse sheds” where fresh sugar was dried.  One of the most impressive structures on the premises is the towering chimney…the rum still.

Further along the Loop Trail lay the crypts of a Danish family that perished on the island as well as the remains of the Great House.

The trail is well laid out, evenly leveled, well maintained and a welcomed respite from the hot, Caribbean sun, with its dense tree covering providing maximum shade.  Take some time to wander throughout the interior of the buildings and be on the lookout for the curious deer that meander through the property.

After you are done, cross the road and check out Cinnamon Bay Beach, Resort and Campground where you can rent a cottage, an eco-tent, campsite, kayak, paddleboard or just have a snack or cold beverage at Raintree Cafe.  You can also visit the souvenir shop for a special memento of your visit…but alas…no 1717 rum!

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Cinnamon Bay Plantation Ruins 

Cinnamon Bay Beach and Resort

 

 

 

 

Two To Sea

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Unspoiled beauty?  GO find it in St. John.

The smallest of the three U.S. Virgin Islands, St. John is probably one of the most relaxing and pristine places I have ever been.  Though I have never stayed on the island, I have made a few day trips, exploring its beautiful beaches.

Originally, settled by the Arawak and Carib Indians, the United States purchased St. John from the Danish West India and Guinea Company in 1917.  In 1956, over 5,000 acres of land was donated to the National Park Service by Laurance Rockefeller, assuring it natural preservation.

There are many magnificent beaches that lie within the National Park, some more easily accessible than others.  After our arrival on the car ferry, we decided to drive down Route 20 and start with Trunk Bay, one of the most beloved of St. John’s coves.

Trunk Bay, the most famous of St. John’s beaches is also the most photographed with is perfect crescent shape, towering coconut palms, white sands and small island, Trunk Cay that lies just 30 yards offshore.  It attracts large amounts of visitors each day and can get crowded.  Trunk Bay also is known for its underwater nature trail which offers snorkelers a self-guided path to follow around Trunk Cay.  This is one of my favorite things to do in Trunk Bay…the underwater trail is great not only for children and beginning snorkelers, but for all experience levels.  Following the trail is fun, but I always seems to get a bit distracted by the abundance of fish and even what’s going on above the ocean.  Trunk Cay attracts many brown pelicans and if you pop your head up, you’ll be greeted by a wave of their wings as they watch you glide by.  Make sure to continue snorkeling, watching for squid and indigo blue turnicates that seem to thrive here, well past the nature trail and to the far point of the cay.  If you feel comfortable and the water is relatively calm, try snorkeling around the entire cay, although not much coral life is present on the eastern side.

It is easy to spend the entire day at Trunk Bay for the relaxation it provides.  Walk down the beach, towards the far ends, away from the other visitors, and secure a spot among the trees to get some shade as you may need it…it gets hot!  Trunk Bay, unique from the other beach areas in St. John, boasts a Snack Bar, where you can buy lunch, otherwise, make sure to bring a cooler.  Because it is located within the National Park, there are no eateries close by.  On the premises, there is also a souvenir shop, shower and restroom facilities, public telephones and lifeguards.  Beach chairs and snorkeling gear can be rented. It should also be noted that Trunk Bay is the only beach on St. John that charges an entrance fee.

If you are driving your own car, try to head to Trunk Bay earlier in the day.  Parking is limited and fills up quickly.  Taxis head out to all the beaches in St. John, stopping when requested.  Fare are about $6 per person, each way.

After lunch, we decided to drive further into the National Park to see what other beaches we could sink our toes into.  The drive, although winding and narrow at times, offers many scenic overlooks.

There were a few beaches that we drove by, Cinnamon Bay, Jumbie Bay, Maho Bay, some with no parking available, so we continued on until we reached Francis Bay.  A little remote, Francis Bay wasn’t as crowded as some of the other beaches.  We walked a bit to the right and were greeted by a family who offered to give us their spot with a picnic table.  Setting our chairs among the trees for the shade they provided, we soon realized that the cool breezes that we experienced at Trunk Bay were not present.  We also discovered that while trying to seek cooler temperatures among the trees, there were thousands of tiny bugs eager to feast on our skin!  Yikes!  Staying in the water was a must!

Francis Bay is a long, wide beach with white sands and calm green water.  It is also a popular mooring for many sailboats each night.  If you like snorkeling, however, this is another of our favorite spots.

The center of the bay is mostly sea-grass, but you are apt to see sea turtles and stingrays gliding by.  Beginning snorkelers may find it easier to swim at the western end towards Maho Bay, where you’ll find snapper, barracuda, eels, and conch, but more experienced snorkelers may enjoy the rocky, eastern shore.

After my husband and one of my sons headed this way, we couldn’t imagine why they were gone for so long.  Eventually, my son returned insisting that we grab out snorkels and fins and join them.  Never, ever have I experienced something like this!  From afar, the water appears to be black, so the assumption is made that there is nothing but sea-grass.  When you dive into this area, you realize that it is something extremely different.  Billions of silverside fish swim together blocking out the ocean floor and engulfing the waters around you.   It is truly mind boggling as to how many tiny fish you are looking upon!  The best part, however, is when you see the fish part, making way for the huge, 6 foot tarpon the patrol the area.  These enormous fish, swim near you, unafraid, and provide for amazing underwater photography if you’ve brought your camera.  Sadly, we did not, but we left excited for the memory, knowing that one day, we will return to see this spectacle once again.

After returning to our picnic table to refresh with some ice cold water, we decided that we were hot, tired and over bitten and it was time to call it a day!

With so many amazing beaches on St. John, it would be hard to catch them all unless staying on the island.  We got to visit two!  I’d say we had a pretty good day!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Trunk Bay

  • http://stjohn-beachguide.com/trunk-bay/
  • Hours:  Facilities open 0800-1630, Lifeguards on duty, 0900-1630, Snack bar/souvenir shop, 0900-1530.
  • Admission:  Individual Day Pass, $5, Children 16 and under, free, Individual Annual Pass, $20, Family Pass, $30
  • Getting There:  From Cruz Bay, take Route 20 (North Shore Road) approximately 2.5 miles until you see the signs for Trunk Bay parking.

Francis Bay

  • http://stjohn-beachguide.com/francis-bay-2/
  • Admission:  free
  • Getting There:  Take Route 20 (North Shore Road past Maho Bay Beach.  The road divides just beyond the end of the beach.  Follow the road until you read a “Y”.  Keep left to Leinster/Waterlemon.  Continue about 1/4 mile down the road where you will see the entrance on the right.

 

 

Island to Island…By Car

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Going to St. John while on St. Thomas is an absolute must!

But, how do you get there?

Yes, there is a passenger ferry that operates from St. Thomas’ Red Hook Harbor every hour.  This entailed parking our car and paying the daily parking rate of $5 as well as the ferry fare for the four of us…$6.00 per person, each way, plus a luggage surcharge for carrying our cooler and beach chairs.

St. Thomas passenger ferry and terminal

After our arrival in St. John, the question remained…how would we get around?

We could walk from Cruz Bay to the nearest trail and then hike to the nearest beaches, Solomon or Honeymoon.  If we chose this option, however, it would mean only bringing snorkel equipment and a towel.  No cooler…no chairs.

We could rent a car…approximately $80-$100 for the day.

Or…we could hire a taxi.  We knew we wanted to visit Trunk Bay, which would cost $6.00 per person, each way.  We also wanted to visit other beaches, adding to the overall cost and eliminating spontaneity.

So…the grand total for taking the passenger ferry for the day would be well over $100-$150, depending on the method of transportation and number of destinations.

There had to be a better way.

We already had a car on St. Thomas…was there a way to take it to St. John?

Love City Car Ferries to the rescue!

Thankfully, we investigated this option early on in our trip.  Love City Car Ferries, takes reservations for cars and trucks up to three tons and must be booked three days before your trip.  The total cost for the car, its occupants and luggage is $50, plus a $3 port fee.  That’s it…we drive on…we drive off.

The day of our trip, we were up early and arriving in Red Hook Harbor, following the signs to the car ferry loading apron.  Directed to back into lines for organized loading onto the ferry, we realized that we were actually a bit early.  After asking the attendant if the ferry we were about to back onto was Love City’s 9:00 am ferry (it was currently 8:15), we were informed that we needed to move to another line.  The ferry we were in line to board was Boyson’s Inc.’s Mister B.

Moving to the first line, we watched cars, delivery vehicles and even a dump truck back onto Mister B.  We definitely learned what to do and what not to do!

Loading of Boyson’s Ferry

Finally, Mister B departed and Love City’s Captain Vic pulled up to the loading apron.  Being the first to back onto the ferry was a plus as we only had to watch out not to back into the ferry, not other cars.  Slowly, other vehicles filled the ferry and it was time to depart.

Mister B’s Ferry, unloading before we backed on
First car on the ferry

Though my husband and children opted to stay in the car for the ride over, I climbed to the top of the wheelhouse and watched Red Hook Harbor grow smaller and the neighboring islands pass by…Great St. James, Little St. James, Dog Island and finally Steven Cay as we pulled up to the Car Ferry Dock at Enighed Pond.  The trip was a mere twenty minutes.

Top of the wheel house
Arriving into St. John’s Enighed Pond

Departing the barge was a less complicated affair since all we had to do was drive forward off of the boat and make our way onto the island.

When we booked our trip, we had elected to return on a 7:00 pm ferry.  Around 3:00 pm, we were getting tired from being in the sun all day and checked the ferry schedule.  It appeared that there was a 4:00 pm and then a 6:15 pm departure time.  Not seeing the 7:00 departure that we had booked (and was on our reservation), we were a little nervous about waiting and not making it off of the island.  We all agreed that we would make our way quickly back to the car ferry dock and inquire as to whether or not we could take the early boat.

Thankfully, we did not wait until 7:00.  Apparently, Love City has an agreement with Global Marine ferries and travel with the two companies is interchangeable.  On this day, however, Global Marine was not operating.  So, our only two options were 4:00 pm and 6:15 pm and there was no problem with our taking the early ferry.

Once again, we lined up and backed our car on to the ferry…my husband was becoming quite proficient!  This time, we all stayed put inside the car and luckily for us we did…it started to rain!

A short time later, we were back in Red Hook Harbor and ready for dinner!

Although it was quite difficult to figure out the ferry situation in St. John, we are glad that this is the way we approached it.  Though we were only able to contact and book with Love City Ferries, it appears that Boyson was operating regularly at the time.  After numerous unsuccessful attempts to reach Boyson for their schedule and procedure to book, we decided on Love City.  A bit confusing, it seems that Love City has been the only operator that has offered reliable service over the past few years.

If you decide to utilize the car barge for a trip to St. John, I would suggest taking a trip to the ferry pier prior to your trip to inquire as to the ferry schedules and operators.  I understand the Boyson may be a bit cheaper, but whichever company you decide to use, be sure to ask the attendant for scheduled departure times for your return trip later in the day.

Have a great time!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

St. Thomas to St. John Passenger Ferry

Love City Car Ferries

Boyson Inc.

  • http://boysoninc.com/
  • Departure point:  Red Hook Harbor, $50 per vehicle, plus $3.00 port fee.
  • Schedule:  Enighed Pond, St. John, Mondays-Sundays 0600, 0730, 0930, 1130, 1230, 1430, 1630
    Enighed Pond, St. John

    6:00am
    7:30am
    9:30am
    11:30am
    12:30pm
    2:30pm
    4:30pm
    6:00pm

    Red Hook, St. Thomas

    6:30 am
    8:30am
    10:30am
    12:05pm
    1:30pm
    3:30pm
    5:30pm
    6:30pm

    SUNDAYS

    Enighed Pond, St. John

    7:30am
    9:30am
    11:30am
    1:30pm
    3:30pm
    5:05pm
    6:00pm

    Red Hook, St. Thomas

    8:30 am
    10:30am
    12:30pm
    2:30pm
    4:30pm
    5:30pm
    6:30pm

The Danish Fort

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Antsy…

That’s me.  I used to be the person who loved lying in the sun all day.  Now, I still do, but I get these nagging thoughts that I should also being doing something a little more culturally stimulating.

While in St. Thomas, there were so many beaches and islands that we wanted to check out, but I knew that there were some interesting landmarks that I wanted to visit as well.

As we drove through Charlotte Amalie, after our arrival, we passed by Fort Christian.  A lovely, dark red building, the fantastic clock tower caught my attention.  I knew that we needed to come on another day to explore!

‘After a few rain showers blew through and the skies decided to remain cloudy, I persuaded my family that we should drive into town to see the fort…the fact that there is a souvenir market next door and the promise of some cool t-shirts cemented the deal.

Fort Christian, named for the Danish King Christian V, originated with Governor Jorgen Iversen, after his arrival on May 25, 1672.  Four years later, the outer walls and a three story oval tower, Trygborg, had been completed.  The fort served its purpose over the years, successfully defending St. Thomas from the French among others, however, it was demilitarized during the 1870s.  Undergoing enlargement and repair, it later served as the police headquarters of the Virgin Islands, as well as a town center, a government building and a jail.

A basic square structure with stone curtain walls and diamond-shaped stone bastions at the corners, the Tyygborg tower and north curtain were eventually demolished as well as other parts of the fort.  The current Gothic Revival structure, with its Victorian clock tower, which serves as an entrance, was eventually built to replace the north curtain in the 18th century. Today, the bastions and the rooftop can be accessed as well as the living quarters that were later added.

We enjoyed visiting the lower level which houses former cells, displays detailing the fort’s history, chapel and the living quarters.  These areas are filled with antiques and gives an idea of the living standards at the time.  We did not have a tour guide as we arrived just before three o’clock (last admitting time) however, having an escort would have been a benefit in learning more about the history of the structure and the role it played in protecting the island’s harbor.

Enjoy a visit to Fort Christian…take the time to make your way up top and look out toward the water, the cruise ships and the mountains….you might even spot the Governor’s house!  The views are truly fantastic!  And when you are done…grab an ice cream or snow-cone to beat the heat and maybe even a souvenir t-shirt!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Fort Christian

  • https://www.nps.gov/nr/travel/prvi/pr29.htm
  • Address:  Forte Strade, Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas 00801, USVI
  • Hours:  Monday-Friday, 0830-1600.  Last admittance, 1500.
  • Admission:  Non-local Adult, $!0, Children, ages 5-12, $7.  Local (with ID), $5.  Students (school-aged in uniform and/or with ID), $3.  Children (4 years and under): free.

 

Sandy, Sunny Spots…and a Seagull or Two

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The Virgin Islands…a haven for sun lovers and beach enthusiasts!

About 24 years had passed since we first visited the Virgin Islands…it was high time that we went back, especially since our children had yet to experience its magnificence.

Deciding that it was best to stay on St. Thomas for a wider array of things to do, we left bright and early and arrived to beautiful, blue skies and warm temperatures.

Though our condominium was located on stunning Sapphire Beach, known for its snorkeling,  it was advantageous to have a car in order to experience some of the other beaches located throughout the island.

It is helpful to know that all of St. Thomas’ beaches are public and accessible to anyone, however, visitors should avoid using hotel or condo chairs and other equipment reserved for those staying in these properties.

We tried out three other beaches while visiting St. Thomas…Magen’s Bay, Secret Harbor and Coki Beach.

Magen’s Bay is truly one of the most stunning beaches I have ever visited.  Such an impression it made on us all those years ago, we knew we had to make it a priority on this trip.

The drive to Magen’s Bay from the part of the island on which we were staying is a bit harrowing with hairpin turns, narrow lanes and a lack of shoulders, but if you’ve got the guts, you’ll pass some stunning overlooks along the way and be rewarded on your arrival.

After paying our entrance and parking fees, we secured a convenient parking spot and grabbed a picnic table under the shelter of a large, shady tree.  Since we had our own beach chairs (courtesy of our condominium) we spread out in the white sand, lathered up and admired the azure waters of Magen’s Bay.

Magen’s Bay public park was donated to the people of the Virgin Islands by Arthur Fairchild and consists of a one mile of white sand beach, a six-acre arboretum with trees from four tropical continents, a two-acre camping ground, five acres of coconut groves and fifteen acres of mangroves and wetlands.   It is the only beach on St. Thomas that charges an admission fee which is used to maintain the facilities and the beach.

After relaxing for a while, we then grabbed our snorkels and dove in, eager to see what was below the water’s surface.  While our waters at Sapphire Beach offered an amazing amount of coral and marine life, sadly, Magen’s Bay did not.  A bit more coral borders the rocky outcropping at each end of the beach, but the most impressive thing we encountered was the large, shoaling silver-side fish whose location was apparent by the diving seagulls.

A perfect day for visiting with no cruise ship in port, the beach was uncrowded even with a group of summer camp-goers learning to paddle board.  Though more visitors tend to congregate nearer to the concession stand area, if you desire more privacy, a short walk to either end of the beach will offer more space.  We loved swimming in the calm, crystal clear waters and picnicking under the large shady trees.  It is advisable to bring a cooler if you have one available.  Although there is a concession stand, drinks and food are on the pricey side. Drinks and lunch for a family of four could potentially run over fifty dollars.

Make sure to to wade through the shallow waters to the boulders, on the right side of Magen’s Bay, to experience some rock climbing and amazing photo opportunities.

After Magen’s Bay, trying to decide on another beach was tough.  Would any other measure up?

Our next trip was nearer to our end of the island.  On our first visit to St. Thomas, many years ago, we stayed in a private home near Secret Harbour.  Unspoiled, it was actually a little primitive and unkempt.  After a quick walk to check it out, we spent most of our vacation time on St. John since we were so close to the ferry in Red Hook Harbor.

After reading that Secret Harbour beach was considered one of the best beaches on the east end of St. Thomas and we were only a couple of minutes drive from it, we decided to spend the morning there.  Parking in front of  Secret Harbour Beach Resort, we made our way down the right side of the resort to the dive shop.  After inquiring about the best area to snorkel and which part of the beach was best for non-residents, we set up camp on the right side of the beach.

The beach area is not as large as Magen’s Bay but offers many shaded areas due to the large number of palm trees that line the coast.  Most of the beach is clean and sandy with the surface becoming a bit more rocky to the right.   A swimming raft is located just offshore and a few of the dive operator’s boats are moored in the bay on the right side of the bay.

My husband and sons did a bit of snorkeling along the rocky areas on the right side of the bay which extends quite a ways out.  Lots of coral was present as well as a great bit of marine life.  The water was calm and perfect for swimming, however, they admitted that at times the water was not as clear as Sapphire Beach or Magen’s Bay.

Two sit-down restaurants are located along the beach area, however, again, it would be advisable to bring a cooler if you don’t plan to have a more formal meal.

After an enjoyable morning at Secret Harbour, it was time to try another nearby strand…Coki Point Beach.

Our final visit, was located on the North East side of the island adjacent to the Coral World Ocean Park.  Greeted by a local upon pulling into the parking area, we were charged five dollars to park.  Though it is stated that there are no fees to use any of the beaches besides Magen’s Bay, I was a bit skeptical as to whether the locals charge this fee unofficially.

As we made our way to the beach area, we were immediately greeted by a woman offering to get us what we needed…chairs (we had them), food (burgers, chicken and seafood all smelled great), drinks (she actually peeked into our cooler and told me that we need something stronger than water and soda).

The water was clear and calm and deepens gradually, however, the beach was teeming with local families out to enjoy the Friday afternoon and was a bit on the crowded side.  Surprisingly, there were large piles of seaweed all along the shore, something I would have thought would have been cleaned up by the many locals in this area, especially those benefiting from the parking fees!

My husband and sons, once again, went out to check out the snorkeling and thought it very similar to Sapphire Beach.  The waters were teeming with many species of fish due to the fact that some of the vendors sell food so that snorkelers can attract them for photo opportunities.

Coki Point Beach was a great place to spend a few hours, however, when cruise ships are in port, I have been told that the beach can be quite crowded.  The beach has a reputation for locals harassing visitors with offers of hair braiding and souvenirs, although we encountered none of that.  There was the distinct odor of marijuana smoke every now and then, although we didn’t actually see anyone partaking.

If you get tired of the atmosphere here, you can wander next door to Coral World where you can come face-to-face with sharks and other underwater creatures.  Swimming with sea lions or touching turtles…there’s much to learn about the underwater life that inhabits the waters around St. Thomas.  Descend fifteen feet in the undersea observatory tower to marvel at the coral reef, schools of silversides and other fish or take an hour-long cruise on the park’s semi-submarine.

There are many different beaches throughout the island of St. Thomas.  Wherever your interest lie, you are sure to find one that fits your needs.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

 

Magen’s Bay

  • http://www.magensbayauthority.com/rates.html
  • Address:
  • Hours:  Daily, 0800-1700
  • Admission:  Local Residents:  Adults, $2.00, Children under 12 years, Free, Children 13 years and over $2.00.  Non-residents and guests:  Adult, $5.00, Children under 12 years, Free, Children 13 years and over $5.00.  Vehicle parking, $2.00
  • Concessions:  Snack Bar, Bar and Boutique.  Beach chairs ($8.00), floats, snorkeling sets, paddle boats, kayaks, and sunfish are available for rent.
  • Public bathrooms and changing rooms available.
  • Lifeguards on duty every day.  No driving on beach.  No bottles.  No pets.  No jet skis.  No nudity.

Secret Harbour

  • http://www.secretharbourvi.com/
  • Address:  6280 Estate Nazareth, St Thomas 00802, USVI
  • Hours:  Daily, unlimited
  • Admission:  free
  • Restaurant: Sunset Grille (1730-1000, daily) and Cruzan Beach Club Bar (0800-1000 Sunday-Thursday, 0800-1100, Friday and Saturday)

Coki Beach

Coral World

  • https://coralworldvi.com/conservation/
  • Address:  6450 Coki Point, St. Thomas, USVI 00802
  • Hours:  Sunday-Thursday, 0900-1600, closed Friday and Saturday until November 1, 2017.  Ticket booth closes at 1500.
  • Admission:  Adults, $20, Children ages 3-12, $11, Children under 3, free.  Family Day Pass (2 adults, 4 children, ages 3-21), $65. Local family day pass (2 adults, 4 children), $33.  Sea Lion swim, Adults, $127, Children under 13 (over 50 pounds), $118, includes admission.  Turtle or Shark Encounter, Adults, $60, Children, ages 3-12, $51, includes admission.