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Dozing on the way to my hotel, I suddenly sat up, aware that the bus was making a series of turns. My inner navigation, sensing that we were almost to my hotel, had alerted me to the area, that no matter how many times I visit, I never tire of seeing on my arrival into Rome.
Passing by the Vatican’s towering walls and the line snaking around its perimeter, our bus made its way through the busy streets, finally taking a final turn. I eyed the vendors displaying their wares on the street corners, the summer sale signs in the clothing stores, the gelato shops…and then, I noticed something I had never noticed before.
A fountain.
Not so unusual, you say? If you’ve been to Rome before, you would be aware that fountains are a dime a dozen, existing in the city for over two-thousand years. They decorate street corners, piazzas and buildings. Originally fed by nine aqueducts to provide drinking water and enhancement, they are part of the overall Italian art and architectural experience.
But this one…just down the street from my hotel….looked a little lonely and a little bit dilapidated, with no running water. Yet, there was something about it that was extremely intriguing, but we drove by a little too quickly. Since it wasn’t far, I decided that I would walk that way later in the afternoon and take a closer look.
In the circular Piazza dei Quiriti, the fountain that I had spied…was still there…and waiting for me…but now I knew a little bit more about its history.
Before I had taken my nap, I had learned (thanks to Google!) that this small fountain was one of five erected in Rome during the 1920s to embellish the city. A competition was held by the municipality and the winner, Attilio Selva, gave them not only what they wanted but also a bit of controversy.
Severely criticized not only for its naked female figures and the positions in which they were situated, but also because it sat in the shadow of the church of San Gioacchino in Prati. Because of the controversy it aroused, the inauguration was postponed for over a year. During that time, however, the new Fascist government, preferring the exhibition of naked bodies, as evidenced by the adornment of au natural images on various buildings, caused the disputation to be soon forgotten.
Except to those enroute to San Gioacchino in Prati and of course, the curiosity seekers.
And me.
The curiosity seeker, enroute to San Gioacchino.
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Fontana Delle Cariatidi
- Address: Piazza dei Quiriti, 00192 Roma, RM Italy
- Hours: 24 hours, daily
- Admission: free
- Getting There: Bus, 180F, 30, 32, 70, 81. Train, FC3, FL3, FL5. Metro, Line A.