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Mayan ruins dot the landscape throughout Mexico.
On Cozumel, two archaelogical sites are easily accessible to tourists…
San Gervasio is the largest and located in the central part of Cozumel.
The smallest, but oldest, El Cedral, is located near the south coast.
Having never heard of El Cedral, we were anxious to check out this small fertility temple, dating back to 800 AD. Once functioning as a jail in the 19th century, it is located in a small village and is thought to have been an important ceremonial site.
As we drove through the arched entrance, it was late afternoon and we wondered if our arrival might be too late. Passing through a gate, we traveled down a long rural road before arriving at the front of the village.
A central plaza spread before us with a large, covered pavilion, lined with brightly covered flags. A nearby covered structure contained a large number of inscribed benches and there were a few vendor’s storefronts as well as the Hacienda Tequila Museum, which offers tequila tastings.
Not seeing a ruin or signs directing us to one, we turned left and drove around the village. What a treat! Brightly colored houses, with festive crosses and art displays greeted us at every corner.
As we made the full circle, back to the front of the village, a kindly villager stopped our car to direct us to the location of the ruin and showed us a parking location.
Festive statues greeted us at the front of the pavilion and after walking through the pavilion, we found the temple located at the far, left end. Not very impressive and having no ornamentation, the ruin sits next to the highlight of the village, a small stucco church, which is known to be the first church on the island, the Church of El Cedral.
The church, rather small and simple, is light and airy although its seating does not appear to be very comfortable. On the altar were three small garments that appeared to be draped over three crucifixes. I was quite curious about these, but with no one nearby, I was unable to find out more.
Knowing that the large pavilion in the center of town houses a five-day festival, Féria El Cedral, which brings people from all over Mexico at the end of April or early May, to enjoy the festivities, I had no idea that these crosses had anything to do with it.
Once we had walked around the church, we returned to visit one of the the souvenir shops. Here, I found out more.
Legend has it that 150 years ago, a young man by the name of Casimiro Cárdenas was attacked during the Caste War in the town of Saban. Though the enemies killed his companions, Cárdenas survived the massacre by hiding under other bodies, while clutching a cross, an event which came to be known as the Miricle of Saban. So strongly that Cárdenas believed that the cross was the reason he survived that he vowed to honor the cross even as he later settled in El Cedral. Soon after arriving in the town, he and the other immigrants celebrated the first services to honor the holy cross in which after praying, they received the toche (blessing with the cross). Invitations were also extended to the residents of the main town of Cozumel, a tradition that still continues.
The pavilion is where the traditional and folkloric events are performed and many other events are held in conjunction with the festival…horse racing, rooster fights, rodeo, concerts and bullfighting. Large quantities of food are prepared and consumed and commemorative merchandise is sold throughout the event. The Pigs Head dance, in which dancers carry a decorated pig’s head, is one of the culminating events of the festivities.
After the death of Casimiro Cárdenas, his wife continued the festivities and today, his descendants are the keepers of the holy cross of Sabán. The festival is held between April 23 with prayers commencing at dawn and end on May 3rd with a traditional dance “Cabeza de Cerdo”, symbolizing Jesus Christ’s sacrifice.
While making the drive around Cozumel, take a half hour out of your day to visit El Cedral, a town steeped in tradition and history. Very easy to find, it is located 3 km west of Carretera Costera Sur. The turnoff is near Km 17, across from the Alberto’s Restaurant sign. And, if you are on the island during festival season, be sure and visit…and tell us about it!
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El Cedral Village, Church and Archaeological Ruins
- Hours: Open daily
- Admission: free
- How to Get There: Located 3 km west of Carretera Costera Sur. The turnoff is near Km 17, across from the Alberto’s Restaurant sign.