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There’s a saying about one our most western states, “If you don’t like the weather in California, wait five minutes.”
While we were not in California or the United States for that matter, the morning’s drizzle gave us pause. Knowing, however, how rain showers come and go on Aruba, we waited five minutes for it to pass and decided to press on and go to the “California” in Aruba…the California lighthouse.
A short drive from our hotel, following a line of ATV Quads the entire way, we found the California Lighthouse in the area known as “Hudishibana,” near the island’s northwestern tip. While keeping watch and guiding sailors away from the rocky coastline, it also draws thousands of tourists each year, many part of ATV adventures that start at the lighthouse and then head on over to the nearby Arashi Dunes.
Since we were in charge of our own tour, we found a parking spot in the lot adjacent to the lighthouse and paid our admission to the attendant at the door, readying ourselves to begin the long, spiraling climb to the top.
One hundred steps later, we had spectacular 360 degree views of the island.
Named after the steamship California, which was wrecked nearby on September 23, 1891, the lighthouse was built in 1916 and stands 98 feet tall. It became automated in 1970 and was restored in 2106; its one hundredth anniversary. While visitors come throughout the day, many flock to the area at sunset, to watch the the sun hit the horizon and hope to catch a glimpse of the legendary green flash.
After our tour of the lighthouse was complete, we headed to Arikok National Park, which comprises almost twenty percent of the island. Approaching from the Vader Piet entrance, we first encountered the Vader Piet Wind Farm. These giant wind turbines comprise one of the best performing wind farms in the world, due to the northeast winds that consistently blow in the area.
Passing the Huliba Cave (which was closed as we were informed by the gate attendant), we continued on through the rugged terrain, admiring the desert-like hills, tall cacti and breathtaking coastline. Taking the next turnoff, we found ourselves at the Quadirikiri Cave.
The Quadirikiri Caves are a system of three caves that are open for exploration. Located at the base of a limestone cliff, we found the entrance and followed the pathway which penetrated the dark recesses of the cave, spotting Amerindian petroglyphs, stalactites and stalagmites along the way.
Continuing onward through the park, we drove the dusty roads, eyeing wild goats and donkeys in the barren fields before we found the entrance to the next cave system.
Fontein Cave is more developed for tourists than Quadirikiri and offers rustic, stone picnic tables outside the entrance. We were greeted by a park ranger who directed us to follow the stone-lined pathway and pointed out more petroglyphs on the cave’s ceiling. It was dark at the rear of the cavern and occasionally a bat or two flew past our heads toward the opening.
Next, we made pit stops at Boca Prins and Dos Playa, two stunning beaches along the northeast coast. Although both were extremely picturesque and inviting and we were tempted with the lure of a refreshing swim, signs warned visitors of very strong undertows. Instead, we decided to capture their beauty photographically and my son took a long walk to the cliff jutting out over the strong waves so that he could see the surfers enjoying the afternoon swell.
Tiring of the dodging potholes and large rocks, I was quite please to see paved roads ahead as we exited the national park.
Next stop on the agenda was one of my favorites of the entire trip; the Donkey Sanctuary.
Five hundred years ago, donkeys were bought to the island to act as a mode of transportation. When cars were introduced, donkeys were no longer needed and many were released into the wild. In the 1970’s an illness decimated the population leaving only about twenty donkeys.
In 1997, the Donkey Sanctuary was founded with a clear purpose to save the donkeys that populate the island. Today approximately 130 donkeys live at the sanctuary and visitors are invited to interact, feed and pet them. The donkeys, who have names such as 7UP, Annie, Big Momma and Cinnamon, are extremely friendly and like to walk up and nuzzle you, hoping for some affection and of course, food!
While we had never really spent any time near donkeys, we found them to be extremely sweet and each exhibited unique personalities, distinguishing themselves from the others. As we made our way through the enclosure, some greeted us with loud braying and followed us to the enclosed porch. While we learned from a sign that they enjoy being treated to apples and carrots, we hadn’t brought any with us, so we purchased a large container of donkey feed and spent a bit of time nourishing them and laughing at their antics.
The Donkey Sanctuary does not charge admission, but welcomes donations and earns money through the sale of donkey feed and from exclusive items in their gift shop.
Traveling along the southeast coast of Aruba, we headed to the far southern end of the island to finally spend some time in the sun and sand! Our destination was Baby Beach in San Nicolas, a curved strip of white sand with turquoise water. Aptly named because its calm, warm, shallow waters are perfect for young swimmers, we found it to be a bit crowded, obviously a popular spot for both locals and tourists. After finding a parking spot, we hit the beach and rented chairs from Big Mama Grill, a bit of an expensive venture for the two hours that we were going to be there. But, tired of driving and ready to cool off in the ocean, we paid the fee and took a much needed break, enjoying the beautiful view and the warm rays.
As the sun was beginning to dip, we decided to make one last stop before heading back to our hotel; the Seroe Colorado Lighthouse. While we expected a structure much like what we had seen earlier in the day, we were disappointed to find only a rusted metal cage at the peak of the beach area, which houses the light. Not an architectural highlight, but the views from this area were stunning and the cactus growing in the area made for some interesting photos.
So, as we finally made the long drive back to the northwest side of the island, we talked about all that we had done and seen on this first full day in Aruba. We had started with a lighthouse and we ended the day with one as well, filling the middle with caves, bats, beaches and donkeys.
Aruba is full of great things!
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California Lighthouse
- http://www.arubalighthouse.com
- Address: Arashi Beach, Aruba
- Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0900-1900, Sunday, 0900-1800
- Admission: $5.00 USD
Arikok National Park
- https://www.arubanationalpark.org/main/
- Address: San Fuego 70, Santa Cruz, AW
- Hours: San Fuego entrance, 0800-1600. Vader Piet entrance, 0800-1530. Visitor center closes at 1530. Closed January 1.
- Admission: Adults (non residents, ages 18+), $15.00 USD, Children (under age 18), free. Adults (residents, ages 18+), AWG5 (about $2.77 USD), Children (under age 18), free.
Aruba Donkey Sanctuary
- http://main.arubandonkey.org/portal/
- Address: Bringamosa 2-Z, Santa Cruz, Aruba
- Hours: 0900-1600, daily
- Admission: free, donations accepted
Baby Beach
- https://www.visitaruba.com/things-to-do/aruba-beaches/baby-beach/
- Address: San Nicolas, Aruba
- Hours: Unknown
- Admission: free. Parking, free. Beach chairs, umbrellas and cabanas available for rent.
Seroe Colorado Lighthouse
- Address: C49J+99C, San Nicolas, Aruba
- Hours: 24 hours
- Admission: free