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A room with a view? Yes, please!
Hue’s Orchid Hotel’s staff was extremely welcoming and within a few minutes, had me checked into my room and booked on a tour to the Royal Tombs for the next day. Delighted to find not only a beautiful basket of fruit in my room and a desktop computer for my use, I was ecstatic to find an actual window! Don’t laugh! Many hotels in Vietnam are built so close together, only the front and sometimes the back facing rooms boast windows, usually offered at a premium.
Looking out at the grey, dreary day, I slowly unpacked my suitcase, silently chanting “Rain, rain, go away”. Hoping that the longer I took, maybe the rain would stop…no such luck. I finally grabbed my umbrella and rain poncho and stepped out into the early afternoon.
Walking along the main road, many xe oms (motorbike taxis) slowed to ask if I needed a ride to the Citadel. Politely declining all, I finally agreed to one who also offered to take me to the Thien Mu Pagoda, wait for me and then deposit me at the front gates of the Citadel. We set off and after a short ride were parking near the souvenir stands lining the road near the pagoda.
Thien Mu Pagoda, sits on Hà Khê hill, about two miles from the Citadel on the Perfume River. Construction began in 1601 and it was later expanded and refurbished. The historic tower facing the river, known as Phước Duyên tower, has seven stories, each dedicated to a different Buddha, is the tallest religious building in Vietnam and sometimes recognized as the unofficial symbol of the city.
A slight drizzle continued, but didn’t deter me from seeing the tower, the temple and gardens behind it and the large marble turtle, a symbol of longevity. Keeping a close eye on the clock, I walked throughout the premises, enjoying the pavilions with the large Buddhist guardians and the colossal bell, that locals claim can be heard from six miles away.
Anxious to get to the Citadel, I made my way to the front of the property to meet with my driver, after a half hour, at our agreed upon time. As I descended the steps, it suddenly dawned on me…was this pagoda on the tour that I had booked for the next day? Checking my tour receipt, I discovered it was! Extremely frustrated, I was also a little angry with myself for not being more aware of what was on my agenda for the next day and that I had spent more money than necessary to reach the pagoda. I was also annoyed that I had taken time away from seeing the Citadel, the thing that I had most wanted to experience that day.
Returning to my perch behind the driver, we sped along the river, donned in our rain gear and arrived at the old gates of the Citadel. After purchasing a ticket and taking the requisite selfies, I was soon walking through the main gate into the Citadel.
A light rain continued, but I was determined to see everything that I could. Ducking into a building to escape the increasing downpour, I discovered that for about five dollars, you could dress up in Royal outfits and have pictures taken of you on the throne. A little corny, but it was fun!
This sprawling complex in Hue was where the Emperors of old would have lived and conducted all their business. There was even a part of the citadel known as “The Forbidden Purple City,” which, much like China’s Forbidden City, was reserved for only the most important people in Vietnam.
After changing back to my non-royal clothing, I was happy to discover that the rain had slowed and I was able to venture out onto the ancient grounds. As I walked along the long, red hallways, I imagined the Vietnamese royalty that once traversed the corridors. Many buildings are slowly being restored after being damaged and destroyed during the Vietnam-American War; however, many are in first-rate condition.
Making my way to the Forbidden Purple City in the center of the Imperial Enclosure, I was saddened to see that almost nothing remained. Almost entirely destroyed by the war, a few walls and crumbled remains lay on the site. Once a glorious institution, Vietnam’s Forbidden Purple City rivaled and was designed to resemble China’s Forbidden City. This citadel-within-a-citadel-within-a-citadel was reserved for the personal use of the emperor and only his servants were allowed on the premises with the next outer section reserved for important ceremonies and the outermost for non-royal commoners.
It was quite disheartening to look around at the existing structures that surround the Forbidden Purple City area and only have my imagination to fill in the blanks for what once existed here.
Continuing on, however, there were other buildings that remained in tact and were open to tourists.
Walking back toward the front of the premises, I soon found myself near the main gate. Deciding to walk to the west, along one of the inner walls, I was surprised to find a whole other part of the citadel. There were many different compounds, each within their own walls with small lanes between them. Once again, I made my way toward the rear of the property, through each of them, enjoying the different pavilions and temples within.
This is what I had come to see…the peeling paint, intricate tile work, ancient paintings, old gardens and temples. As I wandered down each lane and walked through each ancient gate, I could imagine what it was like to be here when it was at its prime.
Wishing I had started my journey here, earlier in the day, it suddenly dawned on me to check the time. I could see the shadows growing long and I was not sure of the closing time. Spying two workers on one of the lanes, I stopped them to inquire as to how much time I had left. Confirming what I had just found on the website, closing time on that day was six o’clock, so I still had the better part of an hour and a half. I continued on my journey…making sure I missed nothing.
At the rear of the property, there was a lake and a bridge leading to another entrance gate (one of ten). Making my way along the lake I walked to the eastern part of the complex, again making my way forward.
After some time, the light was starting to wane and I was aware that closing time was approaching. Passing a side gate, I continued walking to the front main gate so that I could exit the property. Dodging an agitated dog, I soon crossed paths with another tourist. Warning her about the dog, she asked if I knew where the side gate was. Pointing her in the right direction, she then asked me if I knew that the front gate was closed. Deciding to walk with her so that I could also exit from the side gate, we struck up a conversation. Discovering that she was from the Netherlands, I was surprised to find that she hailed from a city that I not only knew, but had visited on a few occasions, Utrecht!
As we made our way out of the Citadel and towards the river, conversation flowed easily and we decided to walk through Hue’s night market together. Discovering that our hotels were quite close to each other, we then resolved to have dinner together, a nice close to an adventurous day…a day that started early in one city and covered so many things…mountains, cloudy passes, beaches, an Imperial City and another new friend.
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Citadel
- https://www.vietnamonline.com/attraction/hue-imperial-citadel.html
- Address: Thuận Thành, Huế, Thua Thien Hue, Vietnam
- Hours: 0800-1800, daily
- Admission: 50,000 Vietnamese Dong (about US $2.21)
Thien Mu Pagoda
- http://www.hynostravel.com/attractions/thien-mu-pagoda-hue-vietnam/
- Address: Kim Long, Hương Long, tp. Huế, Thừa Thiên Huế, Vietnam
- Hours: Open 24 hours
- Admission: free