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Sometimes you feel as if you have seen all there is to see in a city, even though you haven’t.
Take the time to move on for a while and come back later.
Maybe because I always seem to be in Zurich on Sundays, when everything is closed, is why I always feel as if there is nothing to do. So, sometimes, I dread my trips to the Swiss city if I will be there on the seventh day of the week. Not to say that there isn’t more to see, I just never seem to be there when it is available.
Having explored much of the city near the lake and the Old Town, I had grown a little tire of that area (Gasp…yes, I said that!) and was interested in finding another part of the city (or even country) to investigate.
Since I was going to have some time in Zurich during the beautiful crisp days of Fall, I decided that I was going to venture out of the city to see what I could find.
A friend of mine from Schaffhausen suggested that I take the train to the Rhine Falls if the weather was nice.
Arriving to bright sunshine, I decided to forego my nap, head to the train station and find my way to what is described as the largest waterfall in not only Switzerland, but Europe!
Located on the High Rhine, the falls are 492 feet wide, 75 meters high and were formed approximately 14,000 to 17,000 years ago by erosion-resistant rocks narrowing the riverbed.
Deciding to make a connection in Wintertur in order to keep the ticket price a bit lower, I boarded the train and watched the rolling hills fly by until I arrived in my connecting station. As luck would have it, my connecting train was on the next track and I was quickly on my way to my final station.
About an hour after I departed, I was arriving in Schloss Laufen am Rheinfall.
Since I had arrived on the southern bank (the paid side), I purchased my ticket using the automated machine and passed through the turnstile making my way down the shady path. The sound of the water guided me along the trails and at each viewing platform, I relished the beautiful views, each one surpassing the previous.
As I made my way toward the falls, I was thrilled to discover an opening in the rocks, leading to a cave opening up directly to the falling water…the air moist and the roar of rushing water deafening in the small space! Despite the low lighting, it was an amazing photo opportunity and a unique perspective of the natural phenomenon.
Following the winding path back toward the way I had come, I continued onward until reaching the boat dock. Here I analyzed the different boat tours offered. The first option a 15 minute ride would bring me right in front of the falls (7.00 CHF) and the second, a 30 minute minute ride provided a stop at the tall rock in the center of the falls with a viewing platform at the top (20.00 CHF). Since I was toting my expensive camera and didn’t want to get wet on the cool afternoon, I opted for the short tour.
Boarding a boat (included in tour price), I crossed the Rhine and disembarked on the other side, moving to the boarding area for Tour 4, with the boat captain calling for boarding a few minutes later.
Pulling away from the dock, we sailed away into the river, along north bank and passed so near the falls that the mist descended upon us quickly. Despite getting a little wet, however, the views from this vantage point were remarkable, exhibiting the magnificent power of the raging waters.
During my fifteen minute expedition, we cruised back and forth in front of the falls allowing me to get some amazing photos and also see what I missed by not venturing to the top of the rock in the middle of the river. Everyone at the top of the rock was wearing ponchos and their hair was quite damp! It made me (and my camera) glad that I chose the shorter (and cheaper) boat tour.
As the boat deposited me back at the dock, I decided to walk along the shore and see what else was offered.
There were food trucks and restaurants offering a vast array of food and drink and a beautiful path along the waterway. Meandering slowly so that I could enjoy the views and the sunshine, I soon shed my coat and took a seat on one many benches placed strategically so that visitors could relax and enjoy the spectacle that the falls offer.
Continuing on my way, I came to the 17th century mill, which once contained a blast furnace for smelting iron ore in the limestone. In operation until the first half of the 19th century, it now offers beautiful photo opportunities though nothing more.
Once again, on my way, I discovered pathways leading both into the town of Schaffhausen and up the steep embankments toward the railway bridge leading back to the Schloss Laufen. Since I wasn’t sure how to retrace my steps back to Zurich from the Schaffhausen train station, nor whether my ticket would be valid, I headed toward the bridge, positive that it would take me back to the station in which I had arrived.
The pathways were shady and well kept with many overlooks offering outstanding views of the falls from different perspectives and I took my time to enjoy them all. Finally, I arrived at the railway bridge and happily found a pedestrian walkway leading toward Schloss Laufen.
The castle, a seat of the barons of Laufen has a rich history including the ownership by grand nobility. Once operating as a wine tavern, the castle has also offered rooms as a youth hostel since 1946. Though I didn’t venture inside, I did walk the grounds of the castle, the cemetery and the nearby church, even poking my head in for a quick prayer for a safe trip back to Zurich.
Heading back to the platform, it was time to make the hour’s journey back to Old Town and a warm dinner, despite the exhaustion I was starting to feel due to lack of sleep.
So…was heading out of the city to the Rhine Falls worth the hour’s journey?
Absolutely!
Witnessing nature’s beauty first hand…so worth the lack of sleep!
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Rhine Falls
- https://rheinfall.ch/en/
- Address: Rheinfallquai 32, 8212 Neuhausen am Rheinfall
- Hours: Northern banks, Neuhausen am Rheinfall/Schaffhausen, free access 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. Southern banks with Schloss Laufen, Dachsen/Zurich, viewing platform access open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Souvenir Shop/Ticketing/Historama, June, July and August, 0800-1900. September, October, April and May, 0900-1800. November, February and March, 0900-1700. December and January, 1000-1600.
- Admission: Northern banks with Schlössli Wörth, Neuhausen am Rheinfall/Schaffhausen, free admission. Southern banks with Schloss Laufen am Rheinfall, Dachsen/Zurich, 5.00 CHF per person. Included in the ticket price, access to the Historama and the viewing platforms. Children, ages 6-15 years, 3.00 CHF. Groups, 15-29 persons, 3.00 CHF per person. Groups, more than 30 persons, 2.00 CHF. Prices, 1 CHF is equal to 1 USD.
- Boat Tours: Short Tour, 15 minutes, Adults, 7.00 CHF, Children, ages 6-16, 4.00 CHF. Long Tour with stop at the rock, 30 minutes , Adults, 20.00 CHF, Children, ages 6-16, 15.00 CHF. Audioguide Tour, 30 minutes, Adults, 10.00 CHF, Children, ages 6-16, 7.00 CHF
- Getting There: Direct trains are available from Zurich HB to Schloss am Laufen and Schaffhausen. Connections can also be made in Wintertur (prices lower with connection). When arriving in Schaffhausen, the Rhyfall Express train runs between the historic old town and the falls and takes approximately 20 minutes.
Schloss Laufen