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Amsterdam layovers with more than twenty-four hours, usually involve trains to other parts of the country.
This time it involved a movie theater.
Learning of the Pathé Tuschinski, I was intrigued by the pictures of its grand art deco and gothic exterior with its two towers flanking the entrance. Making my way through the city, I soon found myself at the Rembrantplein and following the tram tracks down Reguliersbreestraat, I was standing before a most magnificent piece of architecture.
Having heard about the theater’s self-guided audio tour, I paid for my ticket, donned my headphones and went back in time to 1921.
In the early 1900s, Polish jeweler, Abraham Icek Tuschinski, on his way to America was sidelined in Rotterdam. After successfully opening four theaters there, he was determined to build his crowning masterpiece in Amsterdam.
The Tuschinski theater, based on designs by architect H.L. Dejong, opened its doors on October 28, 1921. Although the interior was designed by Pieter den Besten and Jaap Gidding, Tuschinski was involved in all aspects of the theater’s design and construction and was inspired to bring a place of luxury and comfort to his patrons. The theater, a mix of many styles including Amsterdam School, Art Nouveau and Art Deco was built to a staggering sum of four million guilders.
Beginning with the lobby, I marveled at the domed ceiling with its eddy of ever-changing color as I was informed by my audio guide to search through the reds and golds of the lobby’s rich wall-coverings to find the paradise birds and peacocks, relish the richness of the Moroccan handwoven carpet and to venerate the lavish bar of bronze and marble.
The audio guide led me up the stairs and to the various parts of the theater, including the VIP room, the secret, almost-hidden Moroccan room and the main theater, the Grote Zaal.
The theater had an original seating capacity of 2,000, an orchestra, balcony and upper circle levels. With not just a film screen but a stage for live performances, an elegant Wurlitzer organ had a place of honor on the left side of the stage. As I stood on the balcony, amazed at the richness of the beautiful theater, I listened in wonder at the organist practicing his music.
The beautiful details throughout the building…the light fixtures, the stained glass, the woodwork…all lend to the opinion of it being considered one of the most beautiful cinemas in the world. However, not just a place of beauty, the theater in its time was considered to be revolutionary with its unique heating and ventilation system which kept an even temperature throughout the building and the state of the art Wurlitzer organ with 850 pipes that could make just about any sound, including voice.
Over time, the theater underwent many changes including one to its name when it was retitled “Tivoli” during the Second World War and began screening German made Nazi anti-semitic films. Sadly during this time, Abraham Tuschinski and most of his family were deported to Auschwitz, never to return. The theater name was changed back to Tuschinski in 1945 and used for many concerts starring big names of the day such as Judy Garland, Marlene Dietrich, Dizzy Gillespie and Fats Domino. More changes came in more recent years when the theater was renovated to its original style between 1998 and 2002 and expanded to add more auditoriums. Today, the theater goes by the name Pathé Tuschinski and the Grote Zaal has a capacity of only 784, however, five additional screens can accommodate 105 to 191 more patrons each.
As I walked through this incredible, historic theater, I was moved at how much attention to detail and thought could be put into a place of business and I imagined that I would see movies more often if I could come to a place so extraordinary.
As I returned my audio guide and collected my complimentary cup of tea, I checked the time schedule and discovered that “The Greatest Showman” was playing later in the day.
Yes! I would return and make my visit complete.
Arriving just before showtime, I purchased my ticket at the booth in front of the building, opting to be seated in the balcony, which included free popcorn and a drink of choice (soda, wine and beer included). Before the presentation began, I was giddy with excitement, especially when I found that this particular movie was a musical. Usually not a fan of this type of genre, I could hardly envision any other type of movie to be the first that I would enjoy in this majestic theater.
And I was right. I was mesmerized as I sat in the balcony viewing the large screen and enjoying the wondrous story line, feeling almost as if I was at a Broadway production, not a movie! At the end of the feature, I was saddened that my time at the theater was over.
Since my visit, I have been to Amsterdam an additional time and the first thing I have done is to check the movie listings at Pathé Tuschinski. Though nothing on the schedule interested me, I do know that I have discovered something to do there in the future, unlike anywhere else!
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Pathé Tuschinski
- https://www.pathe.nl/bioscoop/tuschinski
- Address: Reguliersbreestraat 26-34, 1017 CN Amsterdam, Netherlands
- Hours: Varies according to movies shown
- Admission: Varies according to seat location
- Self-guided Audio Tour: Daily between 0930 and 1130, 10€ per person, including tea or coffee. Offered in Dutch and English.