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Historic homes in Key West are plentiful.
Cats, too.
One of the most famous and most visited landmarks of Key West is the former home of writer Ernest Hemingway.
Hemingway and his second wife, journalist Pauline Pfeiffer, made Key West their home after leaving Paris and returning to the United States in 1928. Enchanted by the island at the southern end of the Florida Keys, they purchased a home on one of the largest private lots in the city and settled into to the laid back and permissive lifestyle that the remote U.S. city offered.
The home, which stood on one of the most elevated spots on the island, was well constructed to endure the ferocity of the Caribbean hurricane seasons. It was lovingly restored and filled with European antiques that Hemingway purchased on his frequent trips abroad.
As we waited in the oppressive heat for our tour to start and were admiring the home’s stunning Spanish Colonial exterior, a cat or two wove their way around our feet. Figuring they were strays that had made their way onto the property, we followed our tour guide into the home and listened as he regaled us with tales of Hemingway’s colorful life.
Making our way through the living spaces that the writer shared with his wife and noting his cherished keepsakes, we also noted a cat or two…or three. Now, seeing cats outside was one thing, but there was a cat sleeping near the floor-to-ceiling window, one stretched out on the dining room table and another lounging on the bathroom window sill. An avid fan of architecture, I am usually engrossed in the details of historic homes and their furnishings, however, instead of appreciating the beautiful yellow patterned tile in the bathroom and Hemingway’s hunting trophies, I was playing spot the cat!
The guide led us up to the top floor’s rooms including the bedroom and there…on the bed…another cat!
We moved out to the gallery, admiring the nearby Key West Light House, and finally learned the story of the Hemingway cats.
As the story goes, Hemingway was given Snow White, a white six-toed cat, as a gift by a sea captain…a very auspicious gift, as polydactyl cats are thought by sailors to bring good luck. The cats on the property, between fifty and sixty, are descendants of Snow White. The cats bear the names of celebrities such as Marilyn Monroe and Humphrey Bogart and live a fat and happy life within the home and on the premises.
Making our way down the back stairs and into the back garden, we spied more of Snowball’s descendants sprawled out in the shade taking afternoon siestas. As we headed back upstairs to take a look inside the carriage house where Hemingway’s office was located and where he penned “The Snows of Kilimanjaro” and “For Whom the Bell Tolls”, there was another cat, no doubt dreaming about the inspiration that once occurred here.
Finally, we made our way to the rear of the property to lay our eyes on the inviting swimming pool, the first of the Florida Keys, that was installed by Pauline Pfeiffer as a surprise for her husband. Not something that he would have spent his hard-earned money on, he angrily (and a bit melodramatically) threw a penny into the pool, indicating that she had spent his last hard cent, despite the fact that it was paid for with her money. Pauline kept the penny and had it embedded in the concrete near the pool. Though he was not initially impressed with the addition to his home, it grew on him and he eventually had a six foot wall erected around the property so that he could swim nude, privy to only his wife’s and cat’s eyes.
Stopping to inspect the penny, which is still present, we also ducked into the gift shop which displayed books and gifts for sale and yes…a cat…sleeping high on one of the shelves!
As we made our way to the exit gates, we took note of the small houses erected for the cats tucked between the lush growth of the property. We also stopped by the Cat Cemetery and discovered the graves, etched with the deceased cats famous names. We paid our respects to Kim Novak, Willard Scott, Collette Colbert, Liz Taylor and all of the others who came before them.
What I though the most interesting was there was a cat named Pauline Pfeiffer! I wonder if she liked swimming in the beautiful pool?
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The Ernest Hemingway House and Museum
- https://www.hemingwayhome.com/
- Address: 907 Whitehead Street, Key West, Florida 33040
- Hours: 0900-1700, daily
- Admission: Adults, $16.00, Child, (6-12 years), $6.00, Children (5 years and under), free. Rates include 30 minute guided tour.
What I did find, however, is that the Katten Kabinet offers a look at the role of the cat in art and culture throughout the centuries, displaying hosts of art in the forms of posters, original paintings and sculptures paying homage to cats. The most interesting display, however, was a host of letters written to the museum and its cats from other cat lovers expressing their love of felines!
Founded in 1990, by William Meijer, a wealthy Dutchman, the museum pays homage to his feline companion, John Pierpont Morgan (1966-1983) and is housed in a structure that commands more attention than the collection displayed in it. Built in 1667, for William and Adrian Van Loon, the museum faces the historical Museum Van Loon, an identical floorplan, just across the canal. After a draw, which decided which of the brothers were to receive either of the homes, it was William who acquired the property at 497 Herengracht. Throughout its history, the house has hosted several famous people, such as the Mayor of Amsterdam, Jan Calkoen and former American president, John Adams. It has been rebuilt and redecorated several times, though most of its current state represents the 19th century.
After walking through a couple of the rooms in the museum, I finally did encounter two of the five cats that are reported to live on the premises. Stretched out on a window sill, a black and white feline stared impassively at the visitors wandering through its home. A short while later, another mostly white cat paced back and forth behind a glass-pane doorway, obviously hoping to be released from its confines by the owner who currently resides on the top floor.