Eyes open early…it’s the first day of Spanish school in Antigua, Guatemala!
It has been many years since I have had a first day of school!
As I took to the streets, headed towards my first day of classes, it dawned on me that I had not had a proper breakfast. The little convenience store next to my hotel wasn’t open (or bored, see Day 1) until eight, so I figured I would just have to tough it out until lunchtime.
Walking along 5a Avenida Norte, I passed under the beautiful Santa Catalina Arch (I couldn’t help myself for taking this route) and cut through the park at Iglesia de La Merced. Glancing at my watch, I realized that I had more than a few minutes to spare and lo and behold, there was a little bakery just across the street from my school.
Two delicious mini ham and cheese croissants and a Diet Coke filled the void but I realized with all these tortillas and pan readily available, I might have to seriously exercise in the afternoons!
A few minutes prior to eight (I definitely did not want to be late on my first day), I quickly snapped a photo at the entrance…why did I feel like my children when I used to make them do their obligatory first day photo on our front porch? Should I have brought a sign for the occasion? First Day, Spanish School, Antigua, Guatemala, June 2021. The locals would surely have thought I was a bit loco!
It was time for my day to begin.
Greeted by the owner of the school, business was on the forefront, having to settle up for this week’s lessons and my transportation to Antigua. A short dark-haired woman in her thirties then appeared.
Heydi, my teacher.
Mi maestra.
The person who was going to help me gain fluency in Spanish and not make fun of me when I mispronounced words and phrases.
The Holy Grail!
Taking a seat at a table in the courtyard, I glanced around. This was definitely not what I had pictured for a classroom. It was very rustic…plastic tables and chairs, birds flying around and a motorcycle parked inside! Well, I wasn’t here for a spa day! All we needed was a place to learn and I could hear two other students and their instructors just around the corner.
Mucho gusto! De donde eres?
And that’s how it began. Heidy spoke slowly and clearly and I actually realized how much I already knew from my past year’s studies. I understood almost everything she asked me and was able to respond, with the occasional stumble, of course. Before I realized, it was time for our half hour break.
The beauty of Antigua is that there are countless churches, convents, monasteries and ruins throughout the city. While I had planned to visit a different place each afternoon, it dawned on me that I was just next door to the magnificent La Merced. If I wanted, I could wander over during my break and talk to God (and perhaps pray for fluency). Today, I just made it as far as the steps. I talked to my friend, Kathie, on the phone instead.
The last hour and a half passed quickly and I was bidding Heydi, “Hasta Manana”. This phrase that English speakers casually use takes on a whole new meaning when you really have to see the person the next morning. I was now committed!
After returning to my hotel, gathering my belongings and checking out, I headed back in the direction of La Merced, this time to check into my Airbnb. While walking along the streets of Antigua, the sidewalks are lined with colorful walls, marked with the occasional window, heavy wooden door, shop and restaurant.
I am always intrigued by what lies behind these walls…usually quaint courtyards and immaculate homes. After being greeted by Esperanza, the caretaker, what I was expecting was exactly what I found. A stone corridor, decorated with seating and Guatemalan artwork led to a small, grassy, art-filled courtyard. My unit was the first one we came to and as I walked in, I realized it was exactly as I had seen it pictured. An airy kitchen was on the first floor and a spiral staircase on the right, led me upstairs to my bedroom and sitting area.
While I was intrigued with the spiral staircase, it dawned on me that getting my suitcases up to the bedroom was going be a bit of a challenge! Definitely one step at a time!
It didn’t take long to unpack and make a quick grocery list.
Heading out, I realized that I my route was going to take me next to the ruins of San Jeronimo church. While planning my trip, I had decided early on that my afternoons would be spent in the city seeing the many sights. Why not begin today? The groceries could wait while I indulged in Guatemalan culture.
The site of San Jeronimo is not a large one, but one I had remembered fondly from my first visit. I wandered through each room and the courtyard, reveling in the knowledge that I did not have to rush. I could take my time and see and photograph things here and each afternoon, making the most of my time. Heck, I could even come back…what a novel idea!
Finally, I walked up the tree lined street toward La Bodegona, the supermarket. Paper towels, toilet paper, water, beer, diet cola…these were easy. But what could I buy for lunch or the occasional dinner? Trying to make these decisions was a bit tough when you are not familiar with some of the products. Eventually, I settled on eggs, tortillas, cheese, tomatoes and chips. Basic. Breakfast and lunch I could handle, dinner would be at one of the countless restaurants in the city! Finally home and exhausted, I put my goods away and plopped down on the couch. Yes, it was going to be a Netflix and pizza kind of night!
What I learned: My waist is going to expand with all of these croissants and tortillas!
Photo of the day: Lilies of San Jeronimo
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San Jeronimo Church
Address: Corner of 1a Calle Poniente and Alameda de Santa Lucia, Antigua, Guatemala
When the opportunity presented itself to spend a little time in Los Cabos, my first, I decided that it would be nice see the differences between these Mexican cities.
During our long drive to the hotel, I noticed that the scenery was certainly different. Dry and arid, the landscape offered little in the way of buildings or any other sights until we passed through the town of San Jose del Cabo, filled with colorful homes and businesses.
Crossing the bridge over the estuary, we began to spy larger properties lining the coast and more greenery. Our hotel, the J.W. Marriott, was one of the nicest I have ever stayed in. The rooms were beautiful and the grounds, impeccable. During our first afternoon, we spent time hanging in the countless pools that cascaded down the hillside, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. As we swam and waded near the pool bar, we enjoyed our drinks, the music and the occasional crash of the giant waves below.
A little dismayed that we were not walking distance to shopping or restaurants, we were able to secure a short Uber ride into nearby San Jose del Cabo, the town we had passed through on our way to the hotel. Dropped off in the center, near the town square, we marveled at the well-lit streets filled with galleries, shops, restaurants and colonial architecture. It truly was one of the most charming Mexican towns I had ever been to!
Colorful flags fluttered overhead as we approached Plaza Mijares. Here the town’s residents gathered on the Saturday night to visit near the gazebo and listen to music being performed on the stage. It was a lively affair, but the thing that caught my attention was Mission San Jose del Cabo Anuiti, the Catholic church keeping watch over the festivities from its perch on the high steps. With its origins dating back to 1730, the church is dedicated to St. Joseph and is the center of the community.
After a few quick photos with the San Jose del Cabo sign in front of the church, we decided to take a quick look inside. The church was bright and airy, narrow with high ceilings, but sadly in need of some repair. Not wanting to interrupt the parishioners in prayer, we stood at the rear and snapped a couple of quick photos.
Since we were in search of our dinner we continued on, occasionally ducking into the one of the countless galleries and courtyards filled with sculpture and cute shops stocked with intricately crafted souvenirs. Venturing away from the busier food joints, we finally found a quaint eatery filled with locals. I always say, “eat where the locals eat” and I can assert that we were not disappointed! After some amazing tacos, we decided to call it a night and head back to our home away from home.
The next morning, I awoke early and decided to spend a bit of time exploring the grounds of our wondrous hotel. Courtyards boasted sculpture and indigenous flowers and plants. The walkways were lined with color, the blossoms still wet with the morning’s dew. As I made my way back down to the lowest level, where we had spent time the day before, I skirted the chairs and umbrellas which awaited the sun-seeking guests and headed down the wooden staircase to the beach. Enjoying the warm sands between my toes, I made my way southward. The roar of the crashing waves that we heard the day before, was more intimidating in person and I noted that there were no beach chairs here. I wondered if that was due to Covid or just as a deterrent by the hotel to keep people off of the beach and out of the powerful current.
I pondered this as I continued my stroll skirting the rocks and tide pools. Why would someone travel all this way to stay at a beach resort where they could not use the beach? The ocean was beautiful to look out upon and the hotel’s cascading infinity pools were spectacular and refreshing, but couldn’t you enjoy an amazing pool elsewhere? Like, say Vegas? As a beach lover, I was a little perplexed and as I gazed up and down the beach, I rarely saw a soul.
Finishing my waterfront walk, I headed back up the hillside to the hotel grounds. It was getting close to the time to pack up and prepare to make my way back to the airport for my flight.
As I spoke to a fellow passenger on my flight, I was asked how I had enjoyed my trip to Los Cabos. Would I go back for a longer stay?
While I had enjoyed my visit, my answer was a convoluted one. Personally, I would love to go back to see more of San Jose del Cabo and maybe stay in one of the hotels in the nearby hotel zone…if and only if…I learned that the beaches were usable. My hotel was beautiful but left me wanting more. I think that those desiring privacy and luxury would love the J.W. Marriott, but I don’t think it would be my choice for more than a couple of nights.
How did Los Cabos compare to other Mexican cities that I visited in the past? It was a lovely place that I think that I would return to one day, however, the turquoise waters of Cancun and Cozumel are more of a draw for the things I enjoy.
With over two million visitors per year, Los Cabos is attractive to many and worth a look whether it be a short stay or long. I think the strength of the attraction is what someone is searching for…be it privacy, partying, sightseeing, golf or deep-sea fishing…definitely its allure is in the eye of the beholder.
I guess I was eyeing something not necessarily better, just a little bit different.
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When I am traveling, if there is a religious shrine, graveyard or church, I will find it.
It’s even easier if it’s across the street from my hotel!
When I arrived in St. Augustine, the weather was less than optimum. Foggy and rainy, it just wasn’t the way I wanted to start my trip. As the day wore on, however, there was some improvement.
As I walked out of my hotel, I could see the top of an extremely large cross amidst the fog in the distance; the Mission Nombre de Dios (Name of God) and the Shrine of Our Lady de La Leche. Though I really wanted to start my explorations of this historic mission, I decided to temporarily put it on hold, praying for a nicer day.
The next morning, it was still a bit foggy but much better than the previous day. Crossing San Marco Avenue, I entered the gates and headed to the far end of the property to where the immense cross soars over the waters of the Matanzas River. The Great Cross, a 208-foot-high structure constructed of stainless steel, was built in 1965 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the first parish Catholic Mass and is fronted by an 11-foot statue which depicts Father Francisco Lopez de Mendoza, the first parish priest of St. Augustine.
In 1565, General Don Pedro Menendez de Aviles was sent by Spain to drive out the French Huguenots and establish the oldest permanent European settlement in what is now the United States. Father Mendoza, the chaplain of Menendez’ ship, offered a Mass of Thanksgiving on September 8, 1565, the day the Spanish arrived, with a roughly constructed altar and observed by the native Timucuans. Following mass, Pedro Menendez hosted a feast for his companions and the natives, an act that many describe as being the first Thanksgiving, contrary to what we have been taught. Today, on the site of the original altar, you will spot a newer recreation.
Dating back to the establishment of our great nation, these grounds are often described as America’s Most Sacred Acre. The Shrine is the oldest Marian Shrine in the United States and was recently elevated to a National Shrine by the U.S. Conference of Catholic Bishops.
I moved slowly, relishing in the serenity of the area and walked the well-maintained paths and walkways of the mission grounds. Passing the modest cemetery, I made my way to the small chapel. A beautiful vine-covered, stone and masonry sanctuary, it was built in 1967 by St. Augustine Governor Hita Y Salazar and housed an exquisitely detailed carved statue of Mary nursing the baby Jesus. It was the first devotion to Mary in the United States and was brought from Spain in the early 1600s. This chapel was bombed by the Spanish troops in 1728, during a battle with British soldiers who were attempting the seizure of St. Augustine, rebuilt in 1875 and restored after an especially turbulent storm season in 1914.
Other items of interest are the gravesites of six of the Sisters of St. Joseph who came to St. Augustine to teach the liberated slaves, the Stations of the Cross, an unknown formation (most likely the base for a religious monument), a bell tower, and statues of St. Francis of Assisi and St. Joseph.
After my exploration of the grounds was complete, I headed across the bridge to the front of the property. Finding the museum still closed, I ventured into the larger shrine church. Housing a replica of the original statue, I found the church to be quaint, yet modern, with its interestingly arranged colorful stained-glass windows. In the front of the church, a small room, devoted to Our Lady of Fatima, offers a modest place of prayer.
Finally, I made my way back to the now open Gift Shop/Museum and began making my way through the museum. The woman working behind the desk came and joined me and gave me a brief overview of the items in the small gallery.
Items of interest include an interesting diorama of the celebration of the first mass, important documents including a letter written by Pedro Menendez de Aviles, dated October 15, 1565, liturgical vestments and a statue of St. Francis Borgia. The most important artifact, however, is the original outer coffin in which Pedro Menedez de Aviles was buried. The coffin, encased and protected by glass, was presented to the Mission by the city of Aviles, where the remains of Menendez are still interred.
If I had had more time, I would have liked to have returned for mass at noon, however, since there were so many other places to visit within the city, I had to be content to offer up some early prayers and continue on my way. Stepping out of the museum, I realized that the fog had burned off and the sun was now shining brightly. Yes, there were other things I needed to see that day, however, I took one last stroll across the mission’s lake for another glimpse at Father Mendoza and the Great Cross.
Truly one of the most historic and meaningful temples that I have ever visited in the United States and possibly the world, it is recommended that all visitors to St. Augustine take some time to visit this holy site.
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Shrine of Our Lady of La Leche and Mission Nombre de Dios
Across the James River, less than half a mile from the Belmead mansion, lies St. Francis de Sales.
Sad, neglected and slowly succumbing to the passage of time.
Built by enslaved people in the 1800s, the Belmead plantation was eventually converted to both a school for boys, St. Emma Military Academy, housed in the Belmead mansion and St. Francis de Sales School for Girls which offered educations for Native and African American students. These schools were established by Mother Katherine Drexel, a former heiress and socialite who devoted her life to the church and later went on to become one of only two American Roman Catholic saints. The girl’s school was named for Drexel’s father, Francis, and often referred to as Castle Rock…a castle to the girls that resided there and a foundation (rock) for their futures.
Both schools were closed in 1970 and since this time, the buildings have fallen into disrepair.
Visiting with a tour organized by local photographer John Plaschal, I had already done a full exploration of the Belmead mansion and its surrounding property. I headed to St. Francis de Sales, having to take the long way around with the James River bridge outage. Parking in the lot adjacent to the former school, I made my way through the opening in the gate, heading to the front of the building. The back was a bit lackluster, but it was the Gothic facade was what I wanted most to see.
Part of the front of the building had collapsed in the past few years and this made for some interesting photography, but the part I was most excited about was the church. With its arched doorway, capped with a splendid stained glass window and statue of its namesake, St. Francis de Sales, it was breathtaking. Creeping vines covered the façade, some still in bloom, and an occasional window was shattered, allowing the outside to venture in.
Waiting my turn, I finally entered the doorway. The narthex was enclosed by a low barrier and I had to be content to view the entire church from this viewpoint. It was obvious that mass had not been celebrated here in some time. There were two pews in front of the altar which appeared to be waiting for the worshipers of the past. The vaulted ceiling rose above and it looked as if great portions of it had fallen, leaving only the beams visible. What I loved most, however, were the colorful stained glass windows, visible on the left side of the church.
An agreement had been made with the current owner to allow visitors to venture no further than this point, due to the current state of the property. It was sad, as I would have liked to inspect each part of the church more intimately and especially to look back towards the choir to see the light filtering through the stained glass window above the doorway.
Walking completely around the building, I paid attention to the numerous architectural details while making my way toward the former art studio. The doorway was open and I spied blank chalkboards, empty shelves and tables and chairs covered in the crumbling debris from the aged ceiling.
The back of the building was in especially atrocious shape with the right side collapsing from the main structure. I was able to make my way closer, however, to see the balconied areas and vine-covered entrance. The rusty fire escapes still clung to the back of the building and I could only imagine the occasional student’s attempts to venture out using these dilapidated steps when curfew was upon them.
Following the path behind the school, I inspected the tall chimney and an abandoned building. An old gas pump stood neglected in the weeds nearby and I wondered if equipment used at the school was stored there at one time.
Continuing on the path through the woods, I admired the changing leaves and tall trees that lined the path. Eventually, I encountered a low wall, a landmark that I had been instructed to look for. Just beyond, I found the small, humpback bridge that crossed the small creek. I photographed every angle, even stepping down into the creek bed to see it from below, while the water coursed past my feet.
My journey back to the main building seemed much quicker and I sought out some of the other buildings on the property. Finally, eyeing the darkening sky, I jumped into my car and made my way to the main road. There was, however, a stop I had to make along the way.
The nun’s cemetery.
John, aware of my love of cemeteries, insisted that I visit on my way out and described the landmarks that I needed to navigate the area successfully. Pulling my car over to the shoulder, I headed into the darkening forest.
Now, I have watched enough scary movies to ask myself, “Why are you going into the forest…at dusk…by yourself…looking for a cemetery?”
Still, I ventured on, finding what then made sense as I saw it…a tree tunnel. Well, it was more like evergreen bushes trained to grow into a shape that resembled a tunnel, but instead of walking around it, I heeded my instructions and overcame my fear of the creepy crawlies that probably resided there. Moving quickly through it, I continually eyed the light at the end. “Come to the light,” it called, evoking memories of supernatural movies where the dead passed on, heading towards a bright aurora. That thought was applicable, as when I stepped out, it was there that I found the nun’s cemetery.
About eleven small headstones, marking the final resting place of the nuns that resided there, were scattered around the overgrown graveyard. In the moment, I was more concerned with snakes, than ghosts, so I headed back to the path.
Continuing on into the ever-growing gloom, I passed through a gate and found the children’s cemetery. Now, if dead nuns don’t make you scared, dead children might…especially in the dark.
I made quick work of photographing the small burial ground and finally, returned as quickly as I had come…maybe quicker!
A successful day of photography, both the Belmead and St. Francis de Sales, although, shadows of their former selves, make for stunning architectural subjects. It is good to know, however, that both buildings have been recently purchased by a new owner and a foundation has been established in an effort to restore and reuse the buildings.
Possibly one day, after renovations, everyone may have the opportunity to see these stunning pieces, reminders of time gone by.
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St. Francis de Sales
Address: 3500 St. Emma Drive, Powhatan, Virginia 23139
As a Catholic school girl, it was de rigueur to learn about the many saints of my religion.
There are over 10,000 named saints and blessed people. Christians began honoring other Christians around 100 A.D. with many of the first saints being martyrs who had given up their lives during the persecution for their faith, a custom that was appropriated from the Jewish faith in which prophets and holy people were revered and honored with shrines.
While a schoolgirl, the most beloved saints, and the ones I remembered most, hailed from other countries; Saint Francis of Assisi (Italy), Saint Patrick (Ireland), Saint Anthony of Padua (Italy), Saint Christopher (Canaan), Saint Patrick (Ireland), Saint Theresa of Avila (Spain), Saint Bernadette (France). In 1975, just after I began third grade, I remember my teacher, Sister Mary Cecilia, giving us some important information. The first American-born saint had been canonized…Saint Elizabeth Seton.
I don’t remember learning much more about her at the time…learning to duplicate Sister Cecilia’s neat cursive handwriting seemed much more crucial.
Years later, during a visit to Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, a familiar name popped up on the map in the nearby town of Emmitsburg, Maryland…that of Elizabeth Seton.
The fact that a shrine to this American saint was located in a very small town in Maryland was quite puzzling as I knew that she was a New York native. Gettysburg had been my main destination on this trip, but once I learned of this shrine, it was a place that I simply had to visit and the mystery as to how St. Elizabeth Seton ended up here would be solved.
An arresting film in the museum presented St. Elizabeth Seton’s life in a brief twelve minutes.
Elizabeth Ann Bayley was born in New York City on August 28, 1774 in the Episcopal faith. Married at the age of nineteen to William Magee Seton, she had five children. During a trip to Italy with her husband, she was moved by the deep faith of those who practiced Catholicism. Before their return home, however, William passed away from tuberculosis, leaving her a widow. Seeking consolation and the desire to experience the deep faith that she had witnessed in Italy, Elizabeth decided to convert to Catholicism two years later, despite criticism from friends and family,
Portraits of the Seton Family, Mother Seton, top right
Working as a teacher for a short time, in order to support herself and her children, she was approached by a visiting priest, the Abbe Louis William Valentine Dubourg, a member of the French émigré community of Sulpician Fathers and then president of St. Mary’s College of Baltimore Maryland. Abbe Dubourg extended an invitation for Elizabeth to move to Emmitsburg and establish the Saint Joseph’s Academy and Free School, dedicated to the education of Catholic girls on land bestowed by Samuel Sutherland Cooper, a wealthy convert and seminarian at the newly established Mount Saint Mary’s University.
On July 31, 1809, Elizabeth Seton established the first congregation of religious sisters to be founded in the United States, which was dedicated to the care of the children of the poor. With the initiation of Sisters of Charity of St. Joseph’s, Elizabeth adopted the title of “Mother Seton”. Mother Seton, along with the sisters, worked tirelessly until her death on January 4, 1821, at the age of 46.
Touring the museum, I learned a great deal about Elizabeth Seton’s remarkable life from illustrations, anecdotes, 19th century artifacts and letters written by the saint. The 40 Years A Saint exhibit detailed how she became a saint and highlighted the event on September 14, 1975, when Pope Paul VI proclaimed her a saint.
“Elizabeth Ann Seton is a saint. St. Elizabeth Ann Seton is an American. All of us say this with special joy, and with the intention of honoring the land and the nation from which she sprang forth as the first flower in the calendar of the saints. Elizabeth Ann Seton was wholly American! Rejoice for your glorious daughter. Be proud of her. And know how to preserve her fruitful heritage.” –Pope Paul VI
This exhibit’s focal point is the actual banner which hung in St. Peter’s Square on the day of her canonization.
Moving on to the basilica located upstairs from the museum, I was extremely moved by the the artistic beauty of the building. Originally designed as a chapel for the sisters of the Daughters of Charity, upon her beatification it was decided that it would serve as her National Shrine. Completed in 1965, the main feature is the altar for Saint Elizabeth. Here, in the Altar of Relics, is where Saint Elizabeth Seton’s remains are entombed in a copper casket enclosed in marble and topped with a statue of the saint, sculpted in Italy and depicting Mother Seton dressed in the habit that she and the Sisters of Charity wore beginning in 1809.
Altar of Relics
Stepping out of the basilica into the beautiful sunny afternoon, a day fit for visiting a saint, I ventured through the well manicured lawn to the Stone House, one of the first homes that Elizabeth Seton lived in when she first arrived in Emmitsburg. The home, which had been expanded over the years to accommodate the growing number of sisters, is usually available for self-guided tours. Due to the Covid restrictions, however, this and none of the other buildings throughout the premises were open. There was an audio recording that I was able to play and listen to while I peered into the windows at the period furnishings that still decorate the structure.
Moving through the gardens, I made my way over to the White House, the first house of the Sisters of Charity. Originally called “St. Joseph’s House” for Elizabeth Seton’s high regard of the saint, it is fully furnished with items that include those in existence for nearly 200 years and includes a schoolroom, much like the one Saint Elizabeth taught in, and a small chapel. Again, the interior was not open to visitors, but a recording was available at the back door.
The cemetery was a short walk away. As Mother Seton, her sister-in-law, Harriet, and other sisters walked through the woods searching for a cemetery site, the story has been passed on that Harriet threw an apple core against an old oak and declared it to be her final resting spot. Sadly, it was where they laid Harriet to rest only four months later.
Surrounded by a high wall set with bronze stations of the cross, the cemetery is the final resting place of many graves of Sisters and Daughters of Charity. As I walked toward the center, I discovered the Mortuary Chapel. Built by Elizabeth’s son, William to honor his mother, her remains laid in rest here for only a short while. In 1846, they were transferred to the chapel’s vault and later exhumed for her beatification. As I saw earlier, they rest in the basilica.
Mortuary ChapelFormer Resting Spot of Mother SetonStations of the Cross
My visit to the National Shrine of Saint Elizabeth Seton had come to an end. So much information was imparted on me that I felt like once again, I was at St. Joseph’s School in Sister Cecelia’s religion class. Thinking that I was going to only learn about Gettysburg and the ghosts of Civil War past, I discovered so much more about the first American saint.
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Address: 339 South Seton Avenue, Emmitsburg, Maryland 21727-9297
Hours: Visitor’s Center, Museum, Gift Shop, Monday-Saturday, 1000-1700 and Sunday, 1200-1700. Basilica, Monday-Sunday, 1000-1700.
Mass Schedule: Sunday-Friday, 1330. Confession and Adoration, Monday-Friday, prior to Mass from 1215-1315.
Admission: free
Getting There: The shrine is located along US 15, about 10 miles south of Gettysburg and within a one to two-hour drive of major metropolitan areas, like Frederick and Baltimore, MD, Washington, DC, and Harrisburg, PA.
The early bird gets the worm…or a great breakfast!
Although I had checked many things off of my list of things to do in Havana, there was still a great deal more to see! As I sat in the dining room, enjoying my eggs, fruit and toast, I checked my map and thought more about the some of the things that were suggested by my seatmate on the flight to Havana.
Deciding to start at the Basilica and Convent of San Francis of Assisi, I thought that I would finally see more of the religious institutions that dot the predominately Catholic country.
Getting anywhere was slow going as I was continually distracted by the unique architecture that existed on each block. Passing the Museo Casa de Mexico Benito Juarez, I made a note to return later if there was time and then made a quick stop to admire the statue of Simon Bolivar, the Venezuelan military and political leader who led Venezuela, Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru and Panama to independence from the Spanish Empire.
Casa de Benito Juarezand Simon Bolivar Statue
Finally arriving in the Plaza de San Francisco de Asis, I first sought out two significant statues. The monument to the Polish composer, Frederic Chopin, sits on a bench, beckoning visitors to take a seat next to him and El Caballero, the bronze likeness of José María López Lledín, a man which much speculation once surrounded. An interesting story surrounds the latter. Originally from Spain, he was was said to have lost his family, arrested for a crime he did not commit and wandered the streets of Havana during the 1950s. He always carried a portfolio with his treasured pens, gifts and colored pieces of cards, which he bestowed on passersby. Over time, he became well known throughout the city and would often entertain with poetry recitals and storytelling. He died in 1985 and was buried in the Cemetery of Santiago de las Vegas. After the restoration of the plaza in the late 1990s, his remains were exhumed and placed in the Basilica Menor de San Francisco de Asis. His statue was erected in 2001 and was designed by sculptor José Villa Soberón, who also sculpted the John Lennon sculpture which can be found in the Parque Lennon in Vedado. His beard has been rubbed shiny and it is said that doing so gives good luck!
After a beard rubbing, I admired the lovely, wide open plaza and the beautiful buildings surrounding it, as well as the statue of Fray Junípero Serro with a Juaneño Indian boy, before entering the Basilica.
The original church that stood on this site was built by the Franciscans in 1591 but was damaged by severe storms in 1680 and 1692. A hurricane toppled its tower in 1694. Eventually, construction resulted in the church’s present Baroque stature in 1739, was named a basilica by the Pope and became the city’s premier house of worship. It eventually adjoined the adjacent Franciscan convent.
As I ventured inside, again I was a bit underwhelmed, as I had been with the Havana Cathedral. Its interior is in the shape of a Latin cross with domed ceilings, however, it lacked the grandeur that I thought would exist here. As I later learned, however, from 1762, the church no longer served the Catholic religion. From this time, the British had control over Havana and commandeered the basilica for Anglican services. Considered desecrated by the Protestants, Catholicism never existed within its walls again. Although the monks continued to occupy the convent, Queen Maria Cristina of Spain closed the building and transferred the members of the religious order. In 1907, the property was purchased by the government and sadly, became a warehouse.
Today, the church acts as one of Havana’s most outstanding concert halls and is home to the acclaimed all-female chamber orchestra, Camerata Romeu. As I wandered through the church, I was privy to some of the members performing during a rehearsal session.
Inside the crypt, the remains of many 17th and 18th century aristocrats can be found. The nave and the attached cloister also houses the Museum of Sacred Art which exhibits paintings by José Nicolás de la Escalera and Vicente Escobar, wooden images, early marriage registries and the armchairs and lectern used by Fidel Castro and Pope John Paul II during his 1998 visit. Though I enjoyed wandering through the church’s interior, it was the cloister with its fern-filled courtyards and countless rooms filled with religious artifacts that was most captivating.
The former church’s one hundred and thirty-seven foot tower, once the tallest in Havana (second tallest in Cuba), was previously crowned by a statue of St. Francis of Assisi, whose head was severed during a hurricane in 1846. Though the tower can be accessed by a somewhat rickety staircase (which I had planned to tackle for the beautiful views of the city), it was sadly not meant to be…the spire was closed due to maintenance.
Making my departure, I headed south on Oficios and immediately found myself staring at a train’s coach car, El Coche Mambi. Entering the car, I was greeted by an elderly woman, who explained (in Spanish) that visiting was by tour only. After paying her, she then led me through the car which was used by the Presidents on their tours of the country. Last used by Fidel Castro Ruz, the coach has been converted into a museum and preserved the same as when it was in use. Though my Spanish is basic, I mostly understood the history and what I was seeing as she led me through the coach and explained its contents. The president’s bedroom, the president’s wife’s bedroom, the kitchen, dining room and the president’s desk were quite interesting and beautifully displayed.
As I thanked the gracious senora for the short, yet insightful stopover, I ventured out, making my way to the waterside.
Headed toward the ferry terminal, I first encountered Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral. Since I had deemed the day, “a church day”, I decided that my ferry to Regla could wait while I find if it was possible to see the church’s interior. Discovering unlocked doors, I peered inside, spying a woman performing some tasks. She did not seem disturbed by my presence, so I quietly entered and moved throughout the space, discovering each of the elements that make an orthodox church unique.
The church’s construction dates back to 2004 when Cuban leader Fidel Castro offered to build the cathedral as a monument to Russian and Cuban good-will. The cathedral was built in the Byzantine style with a central golden cupola surrounded by four smaller copper-colored ones. The pieces of the cupolas, as well as elements of decoration, including the floor covering and the church plate, were brought from Moscow and the interior has space for 500 congregants.
After my walk-thru was complete, I ventured back out into the sunshine, finally heading to the ferry terminal. My destination was the small town across the bay where the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Regla is located. Though I probably would have not done this without some coaxing, it was highly recommended by the tour guide that I sat beside on the airplane. After hearing how much I love visiting churches, he insisted that I take the ferry to see this church, which houses the black Madonna, a highly venerated statue of the Virgin Mary.
I was a bit nervous as I entered the ferry terminal. After having my bag searched, I unsuccessfully searched for a ticket counter. There were many people waiting and as a boat approached from the south, I assumed that this was the correct vessel. Lining up with both locals and tourists, I asked a gentleman if this was the boat to Regla and was told yes, only to glance up and discover that another boat had pulled up to the dock. Hmmm. I decided that I would go with my gut!
As I approached the lanchita on the right, I saw people paying the crew as they boarded. Thankfully, I had smaller change, even though I overpaid a bit…ticket price was only 10 centavos! Making my way across the boat to the open doorways, so that I could get some air while fighting for space among the masses, I again asked someone (who appeared to be a local) if I was on the boat to Regla. “Si Señora”, he replied and I breathed a sigh of relief.
As we pulled away from the dock, I realized that if I indeed was on the wrong boat, the other ferry crossed the bay to the Christ statue and that wouldn’t be such a bad thing. Our ferry motored off, getting further from the city and I spied the golden cupola of Our Lady of Kazan in the distance, reflecting the brilliant glow of the day. And…it looked like we were headed in the right direction!
Seven minutes later, we were pulling up to the dock in Regla and I decided to follow those who appeared to be tourists. From the looks of the area, it seemed like the church was the tourist destination of choice…maybe the only choice.
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Regla was a short walk and I was met by many vendors sitting on the stone gates which surrounded the church, hoping to sell me a candle or an offering to the Virgin. The church, with its long colorful history, is extremely important to the believers of the Virgin. The statue, which was believed to have been carved by St. Augustine “the African” in the 5th century, was brought from Spain in 453. After surviving a storm in the Strait of Gibraltar, it became known as the patron of sailors.
A small hut was built on the site, to house a copy of the image in 1687 by a pilgrim named Manuel Antonio, but was destroyed by a hurricane only five years later. A more durable chapel was built a few years later and in 1714, Nuestra Señora de Regla was proclaimed patron of the Bahía de la Habana. In 1957, the image was crowned by the Cuban Cardinal in the Havana Cathedral. On September 7, the saint is celebrated when thousands of pilgrims descend on Regla and the image is paraded through the streets.
The church’s vaulted ceiling makes a grand statement above the lightness of the church’s color scheme which is trimmed in blue, a salute to its association with the sea. There are beautiful paintings which depict life on the ocean, carved stations of the cross, saint’s statues and a golden side altar. As you enter the church, however, it is the altar, directly in your line of vision, that houses La Santísima Virgen de Regla. Though I had to wait a short time, I was finally able to approach the altar and take pictures of the Black Madonna…truly awe inspiring.
The ferry ride back to Old Havana was a quick affair and I toyed with the idea of immediately jumping on the other ferry. I wanted to revisit the Christ Statue and Castillo Des Los Tres Reyes Del Morro and I also wanted to tour La Cabana. There were other things in Old Havana that I wanted to discover first, however, so off I went by land, towards the Almacenes San José Artisan’s Market.
Since I had done a bit of browsing on Obispo street, but not yet made any significant purchases, I was eager to see what I might find in this highly recommended establishment. Built in 1885, the Havana’s oldest depository is the home to the largest artisan’s market in the city. A short walk from the harbor, it is easily accessible to cruise ship arrivals and offers everything from clothes to paintings to toys and tobacco accessories. The sheer size of it was quite overwhelming and I was not sure where to turn. As everyone tried to garner my attention, I decided that I would try to find shirts for my sons and a nativity set for my collection. In a predominately Catholic country, it would seem that finding a nativity set would be an easy feat, however, it took at least a half an hour of talking to people, who then went to talk to people, in order to find one! And since I was pretty particular about the type of t-shirts that I was searching for, it was a similar procedure. It was quite exhausting, but I met some interesting people, learned some interesting local news and walked away with the purchases I had planned and then a couple of unplanned ones too!
With my heavy package, I decided that I would begin heading back to my Airbnb to drop them and have a quick bite to eat. Crossing the street, however, I spotted the Church of St. Francisco of Paula. What caught my attention was the tall trio of stained glass windows on the rear of the church. I decided that I should take a quick look from the inside to see their sunlit beauty.
What originally served as an important hospital for women and children during the end of the 17th century, was built with an adjoining church devoted to St. Francis of Paola, one of the founders of the Roman Catholic Order of the Minims. The buildings were destroyed by a hurricane in 1730, but rebuilt in the Baroque style that is seen today. When the Havana Central Railroad attempts to demolish the church was met by opposition, work was completed to have it listed as a National Monument in 1944. Sadly, however, the railroad was able to destroy the hospital.
The church that can be visited today is similar in style to other Havana churches, those of Santo Domingo, Guanabacoa and San Francisco de Asis and has been extensively restored. The stained glass windows, that lured me inside, act as the altarpiece and this church has the only organ that has been preserved in Cuba with its original pipes and machinery. The ashes of the great Cuban violinist Claudio José Brindis de Salas (1852-1911), considered one of the best violinists of his time, are preserved in the church and although the the belfry still exists, its original three bells, destroyed during the hurricane of 1730, were never restored.
My stomach was starting to rumble and my feet were starting to ache, but there was one more church I wanted to see before I shifted gears. A couple of blocks from St. Francis of Paola church was the Iglesia y Convento de la Merced.
Having seen a few churches in the city, I had been a bit underwhelmed. This one, however, did not disappoint. One of the most beautiful churches in Havana, it was built between 1865 and 1867 in the Baroque style and is the type to make you gasp as you lay your eyes on the interior. Decorated by Cuban artists, it contains murals and frescoes throughout with highlights of light blue on the ceiling and an elegant black and white marble floor. Beautiful statuary and intricately carved stations of the cross grace its heart and it was hard not to take a seat on the old carved pews to rest and pray for a few moments. The most intriguing part of the church, however, was the chapel on the left side of the church with a full grotto installed behind the altar. Though the church is suffering from exposure to the damp air and is in need of restoration, it is truly one that I was glad that I did not miss.
Finally, it was time to continue my journey back to my temporary home. It had been a busy morning and I needed to refresh and refuel. After my lunch, it would be time to change channels from churches to the forts that lay across the channel.
From prayers to protection…all in a day in Havana!
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Casa Benito Juarez
Address: 116, Obrapia, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: Sunday and Tuesday only, 0930-1430.
Admission: Unknown
Statue of Simon Bolivar
Address: Mercaderes, Obrapia, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Convento and Basilica Menor of San Francis of Assisi
Address: Plaza de San Francisco La Habana Vieja, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0930-1800, daily
Admission: Church and Museum, $2 CUC (about $2 US), Tower $1 CUC (about $1 US), Children under 12 years, free
El Coche Mambi
Address: Oficios y Churruca, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 0930-1600. Closed Sunday.
Admission: By tour only, $2 CUC (about $2 US)
Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral
Address: Avenida del Puerto Esquina Calles Sol y Santa Clara – La Habana Vieja, Havana 10100 Cuba
Hours: No posted opening times
Admission: free
Terminal de Ferris (Ferry Terminal)
Address: Avenue Del Puerto, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: 0400-midnight, daily.
Admission: 10 centavos (about 10 cents US)
Capacity is 90 persons and boats depart every 15 minutes
Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Regla
Address: Avenue Marti, Regla, Cuba
Hours: 0800-1700, daily
Admission: free, donations accepted
Almacenes San José Artisan’s Market
Address: Avenida del Puerto corner of Calle Cuba
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 1000-1800. Closed on Monday.
Admission: free
St. Francis of Paola
Address: 110 Leonor Pérez, Havana, Cuba
Hours: No posted opening times
Admission: free
Iglesia Y Convento de la Merced
Address: Calle de Cuba 806, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Hours listed are 0800-1200 and 1500-1700, Monday-Saturday and 0900-1300, Sunday, however, I ventured in after the noon hour, so church may or may not be closed. Mass times are 0900, Monday-Saturday and noon, Sunday
There was still plenty of daylight and most attractions in Cuba did not close for a little while. I needed a plan of action that might include a frosty beverage!
Grabbing a seat on a rustic bench, I took a second to regroup.
Iglesia del Santo Angel Custodio near the Revolution Museum caught my eye. I had just been near there and it meant a little backtracking, but there were many restaurants just around the corner and it would be nice to have a seat and something to drink.
Though the church was not open, I discovered that it sat on a pretty, yet tiny, colonial square, Plazuela de Santo Ángel. A lovely bronze statue of a woman holding court in front of the church captured my attention. She was dressed in vintage attire, holding a fan and appeared to have just left the church and was going to do her business in Old Havana.
Although there is a placard on the church wall which tells visitors about this woman, Cecilia Valdes, I had to wait until later to decipher who she was as it was written in Spanish. What I later learned was that this woman is the title heroine of a popular 19th century book which had a scene set at this location. The book has inspired operas, literary reiterations and a feature film and has been considered one of the most important novels detailing life in 19th century Cuba. You can also take note of the bust on the nearby wall of Cirilo Villaverde, the Cuban poet, novelist, journalist and freedom fighter. He is known especially for one great literary piece of work. Yes…the novel, Cecilia Valdes!
As I made my way away from the square, I was intrigued with the area. There were captivating outdoor cafes, fun souvenir shops and colorful fans hanging above the street. It was a beautiful afternoon and it was nice to take a seat under one of the large umbrellas and enjoy a refreshing cerveza!
Once again, I continued my explorations and there was a great detail to take in; small, beautifully crafted tiles on buildings, artists putting the finishing touches on their masterpieces, bits of grafitti, a statue of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes and city wall ruins in the Parque Cespedes La Maestranza and the Police Headquarters situated in a old fortress, were just a few of the treasures that I encountered along the way.
Music playing in the distance caught my ear and I followed the tune. Finding myself in the Plaza de la Catedral, a known locale of countless street performers, I stared up at the profound Havana Cathedral, also known as the Catedral de San Cristobal. One of the eleven cathedrals on the island, it serves as the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese. Built between 1748 and 1777, it was consecrated in 1782.
The Baroque architectural style is quite commanding as you stand before the cathedral in the plaza and if your eye is quite discerning, you may notice that the two bell towers are of unequal size and height. Approaching the facade, I noticed that there were fossilized marine fauna and flora in the stone, quickly realizing that the Cathedral is constructed from coral. It is quite beautiful and I could not wait to see what its interior held, especially knowing that it was designed by Italian architect Francesco Borromini.
The interior is decorated in the neoclassical style and has a central nave, two side aisles, eight side chapels and is in the form of a Latin cross. Though my initial impression of the interior was that it was stunning, with its palatial columns and soaring vaulted ceilings, I realized that it was more of an understated beauty. I have seen my share of opulent religious building throughout the world and this one was not of that class. It was, however, welcoming and offered many sculptures, paintings and frescoes throughout its interior. Some of these paintings and frescoes are by masters Peter Paul Rubens and Bartolome Esteban Murillo. Other standouts are a statue of Apolinar Serrano, Spanish bishop of Havana, who is buried in the Cathedral, a sculpture of Saint Christopher, the Patron Saint of Havana, three fading frescoes by Giuseppe Perovani above the altar, a canvas of the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception, Patroness of the Cathedral, and on the altar, sculptures and goldsmith works made in Rome during the first half of the 19th century.
The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Christopher and between 1796 and 1898, the remains of Christopher Columbus were kept in the Altar of the Gospel before being taken to the Seville Cathedral in Spain after the Cuban War of Independence.
Finding the side door open, I ventured out and discovered access to the right belltower. I suspected that someone is usually stationed at the entrance to collect an admittance fee, however, no one was present. Making my way up each level of the campanile, I had bird’s eye views of each of the mighty carillons as well as panoramas of the plaza below and even a view across the river of the Christ of Havana. A small gate was unlocked and I discovered that it led onto a portion of the roof. Since there was no one to tell me that I was not allowed and no signs, I ventured to the area and was rewarded with close glimpses of the tiled roof and the spectacular flying buttresses.
After my visit to the Cathedral was complete, I headed back out into the Plaza de la Catedral. Musicians were performing at the El Patio restaurant and locals and visitors were dancing in the square. There were gaily dressed Cuban women, seated at tables and telling fortunes and a general sense of celebration. Walking down the Empedrado, I witnessed many artists along the thoroughfare and older women holding tight between their teeth, one of the things Cuba is known for. It seems that they have learned that tourists love the photo opportunity to pose with a cigar smoking old lady! Here, I also found La Bodeguita del Medio, the famous bar which lays claim to being the birthplace of the Mojito cocktail, prepared in the establishment since its opening in 1942. Though I would have loved to go inside, the line was fairly long and I really would have preferred to come back in the evening for a proper drink.
Cutting back across the Plaza de la Catedral, my next destination was the Plaza de Armas, Havana’s oldest square. Originally known as Plaza de Iglesia for a church that stood on the site, it was developed in the 1520s. Its current name was adopted in the late 16th century, when the governor used the site to conduct military exercises.
Today, the square is centered with a marble statue of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes and bounded by some important buildings which include the 18th century Palacio de Los Condes de Santovenia (now known as the Hotel Santa Isabel), El Templete, the Public Library, the Museum of Natural History, the Palacio del Segundo Cabo, the Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales and the Castillo de la Real Fuerza.
Museum of Natural History
Hoping to be able to visit the Castillo de la Real Fuerza before closing time, I raced around the property to find the entrance. Luckily, I was allowed inside and began my exploration of the oldest Spanish stone fortress in the Western Hemisphere.
Castillo de la Real Fuerza
Constructed between 1555 and 1577, to safeguard against pirate attacks, it later became the official residence of the Governor of Havana and served as Cuba’s National Archive and National Library. After the Revolution, it housed government offices and a museum of arms. Today, the Castillo de la Real Fuerza, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982, serves as a Museum of Ceramics and a Maritime Museum.
After making my way through the lower level and discovering the maritime artifacts located there, I ventured to the second level which houses the bulk of the Maritime Museum and includes the Naval Model-Making Salon and the Underwater Archeology Warehouse. The most spectacular part of the second level, however, is the watchtower which was added in 1634 and is now a symbol of the city. This watchtower is adorned with a bronze statuette, a replica of La Giraldilla of the Seville Cathedral and is used as a weather vane. Though I originally had no knowledge of this watchtower, it was the ladies keeping watch over the museum salons who wanted me to see what made the castle special, that unlocked the door and let me out on the balcony to see it up close!
Upon my departure from the castle, I headed back to the Plaza de Armas. As I entered the gates of El Templete, I was taken aback by the neoclassical architecture, not very common in Havana. The small Greco-Roman temple with Doric columns, dates back to 1827, and was erected in the place where it was believed that the Villa de San Cristobal de la Habana was founded in 1519. Though the workers were in the process of closing the premises for the day, they allowed me to take a quick peek to see the three valuable paintings by French painter Juan Bautista Vermey, which depict the first mass, the first council and the blessing of the Templete on its inauguration.
El Templete
Inside the courtyard, you can spy the Column of Cajigal which honors the Spanish governor in charge of its construction, an image of the Virgin of Pilar, patroness of Spanish sailors (atop the column), and a marble bust of Governor Don Hernando de Soto, the first governor of the town of San Cristobal de La Habana. The ceiba tree, a sacred symbol in various religions, is one of many that has stood on the site. The latest has existed since 1960 and on November 16, residents come to the tree after midnight, circle it three times and throw a coin to its roots and make a wish.
El Templete
Crossing the plaza, I stepped into the courtyard of the Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales, the former offical residence of the governors of Havana. Dating back to the late 1700’s, it is home to the Museum of the City of Havana and houses exhibitions of art and historical artifacts. Though I would have loved to see the interior and its original colonial decor, the palace was closing for the day.
Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales
Though I was disappointed in not having had the opportunity to visit the palace, I stepped back into the street, which I discovered was paved with wooden blocks. This was the first time I had ever seen this and believe me, it was pretty cool!
Walking past the plaza, I made my way past the Mezquita Addallah and Parque Guayasamin toward the beautiful Old Town Square. Though there are many squares and plazas throughout the city, this one was my favorite. Laid out in 1559, this square offers buildings in many different architectural styles, as well as a fountain and unique sculpture. It was here that I finally encountered the Town Dogs.
Addallah MosqueParque Guayasamin
I learned about the Town Dogs during my tour that morning but even though I had kept a keen eye out, I had not encountered any of them. The Town Dogs are designated as such by the mayor, protected and cared for by the city, each being vaccinated and sterilized. They wear a tag bearing their names and addresses and are free to roam on their own. Lounging on the steps of the Camera Obscura, I found Nina and P. Oblivious to the fact that I was excited to see them, neither were extremely cooperative about giving me a photogenic look…probably because they also had had a long day and were as tired as I was!
Old Town Square
Spying a restaurant balcony with seating across the square, I made a beeline in that general direction. The Don Eduardo Alegre Bar and Restaurant was the perfect way to relax and enjoy the amazing view below, the perfect place to enjoy a cold beer and the perfect way to end my day!
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Iglesia del Santo Angel Custodio
Address: Calle Compostela y Cuarteles Loma del Ángel, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0700-1900, daily
Admission: free
Catedral de San Cristobal
Address: Calle Empedrado 156 , La Habana Vieja, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0930-1700, Sunday 1030-1200, Sunday Mass at 0900.
Admission: free. Tower access, $1 CUC ($1 US)
Castello de la Real Fuerza
Address: Plaza de Armas e/Calle O’Reilly y Av. del Puerto Calle Desamparado/San Pedro, Havana Cuba
As I sat in the sanwicheria, eating my chicken and cheese sandwich, I contemplated how to tackle parts of the city which I had not seen that day or on my previous day’s ventures.
Should I make my way to the waterside area bordering Avenue del Puerto for its many museums and churches, venture out to the Malecon’s architectural wonders and take in the fresh sea air or head south to the Almacenes San Jose Artisans’ Market to seek out some exclusive treasures?
Finally deciding to head north, I made my way along the narrow, dusty streets stopping to capture the captivating architecture and scenes of daily life on my camera. What fascinated me most, however, were the small markets and the carnicerias…not for what they offered or for their appearances, but how locals were required to stand outside in long lines to purchase products. I was a bit confused with the markets, especially, as people stood with their noses pressed against the windows while shopkeepers unlocked the door and allowed one person inside at irregular intervals. After speaking with my host, I learned that purchases are regulated by the government and it is sometimes difficult for locals to obtain necessities. Thankfully, drinks (beer, water and soda) and food were provided by my host and charged to my account, so I never had to figure out how to gain admission into these exchanges.
Continuing on, I decided to conquer the northern part of the city, starting with the Museum of the Revolution. After paying my admission and checking my backpack in the baggage room, I made my through the former Presidential Palace, which dates back to the initiation of its construction in 1913. The awe-inspiring building was decorated by Tiffany’s of New York, contains a jaw-dropping double staircase and many exquisite rooms including the Salón de los Espejos (Hall of Mirrors), which resembles the room in the Palace of Versailles, the Salón Dorado, used for banquets and decorated in Louis XVI style, the Despacho Presidencial, the President’s office where Fidel Castro was sworn in in 1959 and the chapel with its Tiffany chandelier.
Museum of the RevolutionSalón de los Espejos (Hall of Mirrors)Salón DoradoDespacho Presidencial
Though I was originally unaware of Cuba’s history, especially during the revolutionary period, the displays, though mostly captioned in Spanish, contain much documentation and photographic evidence of Batista’s overthrow and a somewhat skewed view of Castro’s seizure of power. There is a large array of artifacts, clothing (including blood-stained and bullet riddled uniforms), letters, documents, weapons and newspapers. If you look carefully or have a guide point it out to you, you can spy the bullet holes in the walls, near the staircase, from the students’ attempt at overthrowing the government in 1957.
In the rear of the building you can find the Granma, the vessel that brought Castro, Guevara and eighty-two others to Cuba in 1956 with the purpose of overthrowing the regime of Fulgencio Batista. Due to preservation purposes, be warned, the ship is partly obscured by the surrounding glass and continuously guarded. There are other vehicles associated with the revolution surrounding the pavilion, including planes, rockets and an old postal van that was used as a getaway car during the 1957 attack. In the courtyard and throughout the museum, there were many art pieces by Kamyl Bullaudy Rodriguez.
The GranmaCourtyardSculpture by Kamyl Bullaudy Rodriguez.
In addition to seeing many other tourists within the museum, I was a bit taken aback to find many locals as well. I later learned, however, the museum was designed primarily to help Cubans understand their own history.
Exiting the museum, I stopped to take a look at the fragment of the former city wall and the SAU-100 tank used by Castro during the 1961 Bay of Pigs battle. Just beyond these landmarks, I made my way through the Plaza Trece de Marzo, passing the statue of patriot José Marti on horseback, a gift from U.S. donors through a fund initiated by the Bronx Museum of the Arts. The original bronze statue of Marti on horseback, by equine sculptor Anna Hyatt Huntington (from which this was modeled) can be seen in New York’s Central Park.
City Wall FragmentSAU-100 tank used by Castro during the 1961 Bay of PigsPlaza Trece de Marzo
Walking a ways on the Paseo de Marti, again, I was in awe of the architectural gems. Although some were a shadow of their former selves, you could see the artistry that still prevails. This must have been a beautiful place to walk in its heyday and today is still a nice place to stroll with its colorfully, tiled walkways, large shade trees and dedicated effigies.
Crossing the traffic circle near the Spanish embassy, I walked up to the monument that we had passed earlier in the day during my tour…that of General Maximo Gomez, a commander in the wars for independence. The statue is well maintained and frequented by youngsters who used the wide open area to skate.
As the breeze from the Bay of Havana beckoned me toward the water, I found myself at the Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta, one of the four historic forts that defended Port Havana. Built more than 400 years ago, San Salvador de la Punta Castle is also one of the three fortresses that appear on the Cuban coat of arms.
Castle La Punta and Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro, the fort I had visited on my tour earlier during the day, were both built on either sides of the channel’s entry. For centuries, a chain barrier was stretched across the canal to prevent access into the port. If this did not deter marauders, pirates and anyone else with ill-intent, there were many large cannons pointed toward the water.
Today, the castle’s moat is no longer functional and the castle no longer serves in its original capacity. Renovated in 2002, to restore it to its original historic appearance, its interior houses the Castle Museum. There are several rooms that inform about the castle’s history and construction, displays of naval models, various objects from sunken Spanish fleets and information about underwater archeology and the slave trade. Intricate models of other castles in Spain, Italy and Cuba can be found on the lower level and many cannons and artillery can be found on the upper level. Don’t plan on asking for any assistance, the staff has other things to do during the mid-day hours! Can anyone say siesta?
After taking in the castle’s interior, make sure to walk around the promenade that surrounds the castle. Here, you can check out dedications to other castles, statues, cannons and fantastic views of the channel, Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro, La Cabana and the Malecón. Take a moment to cross back over the roadway to check out the Monument to the Eight Medical Students, a Greek-style temple, built in 1890, in memory of the students executed in the city in 1871, who were accused of violating the grave of a Spanish journalist and the Real Carcel de La Habana, the remains of a 19th century jail where political figures were incarcerated.
Monument to the Eight Medical StudentsReal Carcel de La Habana
At the beginning of my afternoon, one of the options I considered was making my way along the waterway on the Avenue Del Puerto. I had already seen so much of Havana and there was still so much on my agenda, especially in this area. It was hard to believe I had already seen so many interesting places.
With the walkway bordering the channel nearby, I decided that that would be my general direction. Sunset was many hours away, leaving me with ample time to continue my explorations…what else would I find in this beautiful, old city?
To be continued…
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Museo de Revolucion
Address: Calle Refugio 1 entre Monserrate y Zulueta, Havana 10600 Cuba
Hours: 0930-1600, daily
Admission: Adult Nationals, $8 CUC ($8 US), Under 12 years, free. Adults, International, $10 CUC ($10 US) Guided tours, $2 ($2 US), only available in Spanish. Ticket office open from 0930-1600.
Plaza 13 de Marzo and Statue of José Marti
Address: Agramonte (y Genios), Havana, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Monument to General Maximo Gomez
Address: Av. del Puerto Calle Desamparado/San Pedro, Havana Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta
Address: Paseo de Marti Prado y Av. del Puerto, Havana Cuba
Stepping onto Obrapia Street, I first looked left and then right.
First instincts were to gauge how safe I felt in this new city. Heading back one block, I decided to walk along Obispo Street, which is only open to foot traffic. Walking along this pedestrian friendly thoroughfare, I noticed that it was very well kept and there were many shops, banks, parks, restaurants and a few museums.
Obispo Street
Ducking into an artisan market, I browsed the unique souvenirs available and then made my way across the street to inspect a statue of Don Quixote by Leo D’Lazaro (1989), in the Parque de Obispo. There were many locals relaxing in the shade of the large, old trees and the smell of Cuban cuisine filled the air.
Taking a seat on one of the benches, I observed the passersby. Everyone was going about their business and there appeared to be many tourists in the area, making me feel more comfortable. I felt good about venturing further.
After taking a look at my map, I decided to walk westward toward the famous El Floridita bar, located at the Parque Francisco de Albear y Lara. Floridita is a historic fish restaurant and cocktail bar located across from the National Museum of Fine Arts of Havana. It is a hot tourist spot, perfect for people watching and known for having been one of the favorite hangouts of Ernest Hemingway. Though I never made it inside, I was told that there is a life size bronze statue of the writer and excellent daiquiris!
Parque Francisco de Albear y LaraParque Francisco de Albear y LaraParque Francisco de Albear y Lara
Interesting little tuk-tuks were parked all along the square, waiting for someone to hire them, and along with horse-drawn carriages, there were countless classic beauties driving through and parked inside the square. It was evident that the owners were quite proud of their vehicles and most posed alongside waiting for someone to hire them or just engage them in conversation. I watched as many a gentleman popped the hood, eager to share the immaculate condition of their automobiles.
Continuing on, I walked through the Parque Central among the tall, elegant palm trees lining the square and admired the statue of Jose Marti, poet, essayist, patriot and martyr, who became the symbol of Cuba’s struggle for independence from Spain.
Parque Central and Jose Marti Monument
Next on my walking tour was the Boulevard de San Rafael where I spotted the London Bar, Hotel Inglaterra and many old but intriguing buildings. Back to the corner of the boulevard and the Paseo di Marti, I stood in awe of the National Theater. True elegance reigned here, both on the exterior and the interior, as it is the home of the Cuban National Ballet. The Baroque exterior boasts some amazing white marble sculptures which are part of a group of ninety-seven by Giuseppe Moretti and Geneva Mercer and represent charity, education, music and theater. There were posters advertising upcoming performances and I wondered if I could somehow procure tickets for a memorable evening!
San Rafael Street
San Rafael Street
San Rafael StreetSan Rafael StreetNational TheaterNational Theater
What I had spied from my balcony now stood before me…the National Capitol Building or El Capitolio. One of the most visited sites in Havana, the building dates back to the initiation of its construction in 1926 and is located in the exact center of Havana. Prior to the Cuban Revolution of 1959, Congress was housed in the building until it was abolished and disbanded. The building fell into disrepair and since 2013, the government of Cuba has undertaken a restoration project hoping to use the building once again for Cuba’s National Assembly.
National Capitol Building or El Capitolio
Although its design looks much like the United States Capitol, it is a meter higher, a meter wider, a meter longer and much richer in detail. Until the 1950’s, it was the tallest building in the city and houses the world’s third largest indoor statue, located in the apse. La Republica or the Statue of the Republic stands at almost 92 meters high. There are also statues at the main entrance, flanking the fifty-two steps, by Angelo Zanelli, twelve ionic granite columns measuring forty-six feet tall and three large bronze doors with bas-reliefs also by Zanelli which allow access to the main hall. Though I would have loved to have toured the building, it was later in the day and I wasn’t sure it was open. There were other things that I wanted to see, so I hoped that I could squeeze the Capitol into one of my other activity-packed days.
Leisurely strolling along the Paseo di Marti, I admired the unique lamp posts, colorful buildings and the occasional classic car that drove by. Crossing the street near the Capitol, I entered the Parque de la Fraternidad or Fraternity Park with its multitude of busts of Latin and North American leaders. Once known as the Square of Mars and the site of military exercises, the park is now a busy meeting place and centered with a massive ceilba tree.
Parque Fraternidad
Parque Fraternidad
Parque Fraternidad
After making my way around the park I casually glanced down the street and noticed something that I was not expecting to see. A Chinese gate!
Yes, Havana has a Chinatown!
Though not very ornate in nature, it was surprising and probably one of the only places in the world that you will spot antique Fords and Chevrolets driving though its arch. Making my way only a short distance past the gate, I learned from my tour guide the next day, that there are actually some pretty good Chinese restaurants in this area.
Buildings near Chinatown
There were many buildings in various states of repair or disrepair. As I walked along Cienfuegos Street, one of the most photographed areas in the city and known for its unique architectural elements, I remember thinking that some might think it is not a beautiful part of the city because not everything was new and shiny. I, however, thought the opposite. I loved every bit of peeling paint, every cracked pane of glass, trees growing off of the roofs, every colorful, but dirt-covered tile and every rusty piece of ironwork. This was a city with character.
Cienfuegos StreetCienfuegos StreetCienfuegos Street
Cienfuegos Street
Cienfuegos StreetCienfuegos Street
Realizing that it was the beginning of the end of the day (a very long one, I might add), I decided to make my way back towards my hotel with the hopes of finding a nice little outdoor restaurant where I could have a nice cold beer and watch the world go by!
But first, as I made my way through Parque Cristo, admiring the monument in the center, I noticed something that I could not resist…a church, Iglesia Del Santo Cristo Del Buen Viaje. Since this was my first visit to a church in Havana, I wasn’t sure of the protocol for visitors, especially since this seemed like more of a neighborhood church. The woman at the door, however, greeted me warmly and allowed me to walk through freely and take photos. There were many beautiful stained glass windows and interesting statues but the ceiling was what gave this church its singularity. I learned that this church is one of the oldest in Havana, dating back to 1755 and once acted as the Cathedral of Havana…I picked a good one for my first!
Parque Cristo
Iglesia Del Santo Cristo Del Buen ViajeIglesia Del Santo Cristo Del Buen ViajeIglesia Del Santo Cristo Del Buen ViajeIglesia Del Santo Cristo Del Buen Viaje
Winding my way back to Obispo Street, I walked along with the crowds, admiring the architecture and every little thing that I could take in. Finally, locating a restaurant with outdoor seating, I grabbed a seat, ordered some food and ordered the beer that I had been thirsting for during my wanderings under the blazing Cuban sun. All the while, I relaxed and enjoyed the Cuban musical stylings of local musicians.
As I wandered back to my Airbnb, it was growing dark.
But, you know what? I never once glanced over my shoulder. I never worried about anyone hiding in some dark corner. In fact, I was awed by the gentlemen who stepped off the sidewalk to allow me to pass. I was awed by the hospitality of everyone I met and the pleasant greetings extended to me when they found out I was an American.
Now, why was I nervous about coming?
Sitting on my balcony that night, I watched the children play in the street below and the neighbors sitting on their stoops listening to music and talking until late. Though I could still hear the goings-on through my closed balcony door, once I crawled into bed, it really didn’t bother me.
It was Havana!
Hello Havana!
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Address: Obispo 557 Esquina a Monserrate esq. a Monserrate, Havana Vieja, Havana, 10100 Cuba
Hours: 1100-2400, daily
National Theater
Address: Plaza de la Revolucion Havana, Cuba
The theater has 4 ticket offices located on the south side (Avenida Paseo) of the facility. Their hours of operation are Monday through Friday from 1000-1200 and 1300-1400. When the shows take place on Saturdays, Sundays, Mondays or holidays, the ticket offices open from 1000 until just 30 minutes after the start of the presentation.
El Capitolio
Address: Paseo de Marti, Havana 10200
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 1030-2200 and Sunday 1030-1300
Iglesia Del Santo Cristo Del Buen Viaje
Address: Plaza del Cristo, La Habana Vieja, Havana, Cuba
Most people of faith pray every day and most seek out the comfort of participating in a church service at least once a week, even when on vacation!
Just two doors down from my friend’s island home, is the Cuttyhunk Church. A small, simple structure, it always captured my attention when I walked by in the direction of the dock, the post office, the beach or where ever I was headed.
Never had I seen the door open and I wasn’t sure if visitors were welcomed outside of worship hours.
One day, after a trek to the west end of the island, my friend and I were returning home. Kathie, knowing my love of churches, glanced over at the now open door and suggested we take a look inside.
Built in 1881, the church is known as the United Methodist Church of Cuttyhunk. The church, however, is an interfaith church with Episcopal, Roman Catholic and inter-faith services led by worship leaders from different religious traditions. Only open during the busiest months of the year, July and August, when visits to the island are at its peak, the church bell calls the parishioners fifteen minutes before each Sunday service and can be heard throughout the island.
The church is also used by a variety of religious and community groups for various events, including weddings, baptisms, memorial services, AA and Al-Anon, the Cuttyhunk Historical Society, the Cruisers Community Chorus and other island events.
The interior was intimate and comforting with a pressed tin ceiling and walls and simple wooden benches spanning the width of the building. There are two beautiful shell mosaics designed by artist Manuel Sarmento, depicting the Madonna and St. Francis of Assisi in the front of the sanctuary. The simple crucifix hanging above the altar is made of brass and driftwood and was crafted by Wally Ketchum. What I loved the most, however, was the brightly colored stained glass panel situated above the doorway which embodies the fishing culture of the island.
As we wandered around the rear of the church, I noticed a small basket of clam shells with bright blue writing inside the curved portion of some of the shells. As I studied the framed printout, next to the basket, I learned that these shells are for recording prayer requests. At the end of the season, church volunteers set these shells afloat, encircled by island flowers with the belief that casting flowers into the nearby waters on departure assures one’s return and the answer to their petition. The next day, it was no surprise when Kathie plucked a bloom from one of her hibiscus bushes for me to toss into the waters from the ferry as I left the island.
Hopefully, this action will allow me to return to Cuttyhunk during the summer season and attend one of these church services!
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram @snappingtheglobe.
Services and Events: Thursdays (Summer Season), 1100, an hour of discussion and medition, 1930, Bible Study, 1830 Kids Movie Night. Sunday Services begin on the Sunday before the Fourth of July until Labor Day weekend. 0830, Episcopal Eucharist, 0930, Sunday School, 1030, Roman Catholic Mass, 1945, Hymn Sing, 2000, Evening Worship.
Contact information: For weddings and special gatherings, contact a church volunteer at 781-834-9552 or email puddingstone@live.com
