Religious Institutions – Page 2

Strike Out

Italian train strikes…I hate them.

It always seems that they happen when I have plans to visit other towns in Italy. While they usually give plenty of notice, for some reason, I usually miss that information until I arrive at the train station and realize that something is amiss.

Last October, exactly that happened. Skipping my nap, I readied myself for my day trip to Vigevano, the city known for its shoemaking history. With my list of places I wanted to visit in hand, I arrived at Porta Genova train station, purchased my ticket and walked out to the platform to await my ride. My train was supposed to leave at 12:40, but the time had come and gone. As I began to study the departure board, a man began speaking to me in Italian. My confused look must have clued him in that I did not speak his language, so instead, he said, “Signora, no trains, no trains!”

WHAT? NO TRAINS?

Refusing to believe his revelation, I continued to wait, eventually realizing that not one train had traveled through the station. Trying to look up any bit of information on the internet, I had no success, even with attempting to find an alternate route, other than driving or walking.

Defeated, I realized that I needed to find an alternate plan for the day. “Okay, think…”, I said to myself. Realizing that I was near the Navigli Canal area, I decided to head that way.

It was a beautiful, fall afternoon, perfect for strolling along the waterway, so I attempted to enjoy my plan modifications…with a scoop of gelato to cheer me up! Having been in this area before, I decided to seek out more about what makes it special.

Until the nineteenth century, the Navigli canals were the port area of Milan allowing the reach of Lake Maggiore, Lake Como and Ticino. Consisting of two major canals, Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese, these canals were used to import the marble needed to construct the Duomo church.

Today, there are alternate methods of reaching other Italian cities and for receiving goods and merchandise, but the Navigli canals still play an important part in the Milanese daily life. An exciting place where locals and tourists alike meet to enjoy the lovely evenings while the evening light reflects on the waterways, many restaurants and bars are available to choose from. The last Sunday of the month also draws crowds for the Vintage Market, which hosts exhibitors from all over Lombardy selling an odd assortment of goods.

It wasn’t Sunday and it wasn’t quite happy hour yet, so I opted to analyze every shop, alleyway and piece of architecture along the way. Not long after I began my explorations, I stumbled upon something interesting. What appeared to be an awning covering a small stream, I learned was the Vicolo Lavandai, the former laundromat, dating back to the last century. One would expect that it was the meeting place of women, however, it is interesting to note that in fact, it was the men who did the washing here. The small stream was fed by the Naviglio Grande and on wooden boards, also known as brellins, they scrubbed their clothing items. These men created their own trade association in 1700, the Confraternita dei Lavandai which had St. Anthony of Padua as its patron saint and it was to him that they dedicated the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie al Naviglio.

This church was where I headed next, a short distance down the canal.

Santa Maria delle Grazie al Naviglio, had its humble beginnings on the left bank of the Naviglio Grande in the sixteenth century with a chapel built to house an image of the Madonna. The chapel was eventually demolished and a larger Baroque church was built in its place, being devastated by fire in 1719 and then restored. At the end of the 19th century, the church, deemed to small for the growing parish, was demolished and replaced with a larger one in 1909…the current church.

The exterior was a bit confusing for me as it did not look like many of the Italian churches I had visited. In fact, it did not really appear to be a church at all remaining largely unfinished. I entered the portal set in its rough brick façade and took a look around, still not convinced that it was a church that I was setting foot in.

Glancing around, I noticed that the church’s neo-Romanesque interior contained three naves covered by a barrel vault. As I made my way down the main aisle, I admired the afternoon light filtering in through the stained glass windows established throughout the church. Two bronze pulpits and two additional altars flanked the main altar. These altars were crowned by stained glass windows depicting the Cross and the Madonna. The altar on the left was formerly the main altar and contained a statue of the Pietà which was originally housed in the previous church. The right altar is dedicated to Saint Anthony of Padua, the protector of the nearby laundrymen. The highlight, however, was the neo-Gothic high altar which showcased a beautiful temple containing a bas-relief of God the Father Blessing.

*Altars dedicated to Saint Anthony of Padua and the Pieta*

Making my way through the church’s interior, I was continually drawn to the rich stained glass windows and the church’s clean lines. Stopping in the baptistery, I admired the stunning fresco of Jesus’ baptism by John the Baptist.

The cafes were starting to attract a few patrons interested in cappuccinos and stronger concoctions. As tempting as a nice, chilled Nastro Azzurro sounded at that moment, I decided to make my way to one other place.

Passing the Church of San Gottardo al Corso and Porta Ticinese, the former city gate of Milan, I snapped a few photographs of each, but with neither being my intended destination, I continued on.

Finally, I made it to the place that had been on my list of things to see in Milan for some time…Basilica di Sant’ Eustorgio or more specifically, the Museum of Sant’Eustorgio and the Portineri Chapel.

Walking through the cloister, I made my way to the entrance to the museum. Here, I paid my entrance and began my self-guided tour through the museum. After St. Ambrogio, the 4th century Saint Eustorgio is one of the most noteworthy medieval structures in the city and stands on the ruins of an Early Christian Necropolis. It houses the famous Portinari chapel as well as numerous artworks of different nature.

*Remains of Early Christian Neocropolis*

Moving from the southern portico of the first cloister to the remains of the early Christian necropolis, I admired the frescoes that decorated the walls of this area. Heading then to the former chapter house of the primitive Dominican monastery and then the monumental sacristy, I inspected the large collection of relics, liturgical objects, vessels and reliquaries that were exhibited in the walnut cabinets. While the collection is vast, many which were referred to in the archives, have been lost over the years.

Continuing on to the sunlit Solarian Chapel with its black and white floors, I stopped for a moment to appreciate its simplistic style. Turning and navigating the hall on the left, I then found myself in the famous Portinari Chapel.

Commenced in 1460 and completed in 1468, this jewel of the church, created in the Renaissance style, is absolutely breathtaking. With walls decorated with frescos by Vincenzo Foppa and a multi-hued dome, it contains the relic head of St. Peter of Verona, to whom the chapel is consecrated. Originally slated to function as both a family chapel and mortuary, the marble sepulchre of Peter of Verona was moved from the basilica into the chapel in 1736. A marble altar was erected in front of it, on which was place a silver shrine containing the saint’s head. In the 1880’s the sepulchre was placed off center in the chapel to be better illuminated and the shrine containing the head was moved to a small adjacent chapel. The chapel also includes a number of paintings by undisclosed Lombard artists including frescoes such as the Miracolo della nuvola e Miracolo della falsa Madonna, and a depiction of the martyrdom of St. Peter Martyr.

Finally, I made my way to the dimly lit basilica which was once an important stop for pilgrims on their journey to the Holy Land because it was said to contain the tomb of the Three Magi.

Founded around the 4th century, it was named after Eustorgius I, the Bishop of Milan. In the 12th century the revered relics of the Magi were taken to Cologne, Germany and it wasn’t until the beginning of the 20th century that fragments of the bones and garments were returned to Sant’Eustorgio. Today, they are in the Three Kings altar.

On the right side of the church there are chapels commissioned from the 14th century onwards by Milan’s prestigious families each contain important frescoes and tombs. The high altar offers an imposing marble polytypch from the 15th century and other important works by Ambrogio Figinia can be found in the church.

As I exited the church, I took a few moments to analyze its more modern exterior, dating back to the 19th century. What is interesting to note is that the belltower is topped with a star instead of a traditional cross, giving homage to the Three Magi.

As my day was coming to a close, I took a seat at the restaurant I chose along the Navigli Grande. Reflecting on the turn of events due to the train strike, I was sad that I wasn’t able to stay with my plan of visiting Vigevano. Yes, I struck out!

But…that didn’t mean that I lost the game. With some quick thinking, I was able to salvage the day and see some amazing sights within the city. And Milan is full of them!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Vicolo Lavandai

Address: Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 14, 20144 Milano MI, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie al Naviglio

Address: Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 34, 20144 Milano MI, Italy
Hours: unknown
Admission: free

Church of Saint Gotthard al Corso

Address: Corso S. Gottardo, 6, 20136, Milano MI, Italy
Hours: unknown
Admission: free

Porta Ticinese

Address: Piazza Ventiquattro Maggio, 20123 Milano MI, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Basilica di Sant’ Eustorgio

http://www.santeustorgio.it/ http://www.museosanteustorgio.it/en/home-eng/
Address: Piazza Sant’Eustorgio, 1, 20122 Milano, MI, Italy
Hours: Church, daily, 0745-1200 and 1530-1830. Museum of Sant’ Eustorgio, Monday, closed. Tuesday to Sunday, 1000-1800.
Admission: Adults, €6,00, Children (ages 6-18), €4,00, Children (under 6), free.
Getting There: From Piazza Duomo (MM1 and MM3) with Tram 3. Trams 9 and 10 (Piazza XXIV Maggio stop) and from Piazza Sant’Ambrogio (MM2) with bus 94 (DeAmicis-C.so Porta Ticinese stop).

The Glass

You know the saying…”the glass is half full”?

My husband is that kind of guy…always sees the bright spot!

While my husband could have been upset that I only allotted a condensed visit to Murano during our day, he was elated that he would have any time there at all. My birthday, my decision…he had agreed to this plan! So…glass half full!

Revisiting Murano was not high on my list. Twice before, I had called upon the island, most recently, the week before. Both times, I had been part of a tour and was taken immediately to one of the glass blowing demonstrations in one of the workshops on the Grand Canal of Murano. With limited time, because of the presentation, my impression of Murano was not optimum. Not having time to do much exploration, the only thing I could associate with it was a dark, cramped (and hot) workspace, filled with other tourists, holding up their iPhone (me included), trying to document a master glassblower manipulate molten glass into a small pony. Then, being ushered into the crowded giftshop so that I could buy a replica of that breakable steed.

Arriving from Burano, we disembarked onto the Murano Faro dock and had a wonderful view of the tall, elegant lighthouse that was built in 1934. Walking down Calle Bressagio, we passed the Oratorio Ex ospizio Briati, a chapel which was the former Carmelite convent and followed the street until we reached the canal along Fondamenta Manin, where we browsed the many souvenir shops that line the waterway.

A building across the canal caught my eye and I quickly ushered my husband across the bridge….the Church of Saint Peter Martyr. This ancient church was originally built in 1348 with a Dominican convent and was dedicated to Saint John the Baptist. After a fire in 1474, it was rebuilt to its current state and was one of the two main parish churches on the island of Murano that I planned to visit.

Church of Saint Peter Martyr

The church contains some important works by Tintoretto (Baptism of Christ), Giovanni Bellini (Assumption with Saints and Barbarigo Altarpiece), Giovane (San Nicolo, Santa Lucia, San Carlo Borromeo), Paolo Veronese (Saint Jerome in the Desert), Giovanni Agostino da Lodi (Barcaioli Altarpiece) and Guisseppe Porta (Deposition from the Cross). In the right wing is the Ballarin Chapel, built in 1506 and named after the famous glassmaker from Murano. It is a humble church, but warm and welcoming.

Continuing our explorations, strangely enough, we found ourselves at the Guarnieri Glass Factory. It wasn’t one of the factories that I had visited previously, but it also wasn’t something that I had really desired to experience again. As we approached the arched entrance, decorated with beautiful glass roses, a gentleman greeted us warmly. The factory was about to close, but he agreed to ask the master craftsman if he would do one more demonstration for us. Although this man seemed reluctant, no doubt ready to retreat to his air conditioned home for a nice dinner, he agreed after another couple approached.

Sweating profusely in the intense heat, he shaped a beautiful stallion, much more elegant that the ones I had witnessed being sculpted at the other demonstrations. For his final act, a glass bubble was blown and popped, signaling his departure!

I must admit, while it was not something I had wished to do again, it was quite nice to be one of only two couples in attendance and I later learned that this is one of the best places to seek out this experience. The outstanding thing about it, however, was that before leaving, I ended up with a beautiful necklace from the gift shop! A splendid birthday gift!

Murano boasted an impressive landscape along its hidden streets and central canals…stunning Italian architecture, cobblestone streets and occasional handblown glass exhibits randomly placed in courtyards throughout. While we never did make it to the other church that I so desired to see, Duomo Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato, we enjoyed the impressive scenery that we encountered.

It was getting late in the afternoon at this point and the sun’s slanted rays led to an ambiance that I had never experienced in Murano having visited earlier in the day. Entranced with the deepening of the colors along the canals, I actually hated to leave. Indubitably a much different Murano, one I would choose to return to again.

As we boarded the water taxi for our return to Venice, we found the ride to be much more enjoyable with the heat of the day diminishing. In fact, a cool breeze made our ride quite refreshing especially since we were able to snag a spot on the outside deck. Cruising between the islands, the sunlight glittered on the waters as we passed Cimitero di San Michele, the 10th century cemetery christened after the resident Church of Saint Michael. Entering the canals of Venice, we passed elegant bridges spanning its width, and spied architecture, palpable in late afternoon sunshine, while tourists strolled the banks searching for their dinner destination.

These tourists would be us later, celebrating my birthday and the glass would definitely be full…of my favorite Italian beer!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Church of Saint Peter Martyr

Address: Fondamenta dei Vetrai, 30141 Venezia VE, Italy
Hours: Unknown
Admission: free

Guarnieri Vetreria Artistica

Address: Fondamenta Serenella, 11, 30141 Venezia VE, Italy
Hours: Monday to Friday, 0900-1800, Saturday, 0900-1645, Sunday, Closed
Admission: free

An Island of Color

Crowded vaporettos and August heat…it’s a wonder why anyone makes the trip to the Venetian islands during the summer months!

But with risk comes reward…

Having done the quickie tour of the Venetian islands the week before with some members of my crew, I had observed the uniqueness of Burano, Murano and Torcello and desired to share their beauty with my husband. On that particular trip, we had stopped for a short time on each island, but this time, I wanted to concentrate on only one. Burano, the island of color! With only having had such a short time in Burano, I was looking forward to seeking out every nook and cranny of the vibrant place with no eye on the clock.

Sweating profusely while in almost a full run to make the 9:40a.m. ferry at the Fondamente Nove vaporetto stop, I fully expected a particular question from my husband. It didn’t take long after we arrived…”So why aren’t we going to Murano? I have always wanted to go there.” Since I had visited Murano twice before, I really didn’t want to waste time being escorted into one of the glass blowing demonstrations that I had experienced on my past trips and besides, it was my birthday! I thought that I was going to get to do what I wanted to do!

Putting myself in his shoes, I realized that he doesn’t get to travel like I do and it might be a long time before he gets to come back. I decided to change the plan and told him that we would make the stop in Murano on the way back to the Venice later in the day, even if it was just for a short while.

Soon, we were on our way, squeezed into a row of seats, but thankfully near a window so that we could at least get some air while beads of sweat formed on our foreheads and rivers poured down our backs. The forty minute ride couldn’t have ended quickly enough and breathing a sigh of relief, we set foot on the dock and followed the crowds into the middle of the small village.

The brightly painted houses and shops were awaiting our arrival and we posed on every little bridge for a photo and walked down every small alleyway and canal. My husband was impressed with the intensity of the hues of all of the buildings, but mostly, he was checking out the boats parked in the canals!

After the obligatory photo of my husband pretending to hold up the leaning Il Campanile Storto, we headed in search of Bepi’s House. Not sure what we would find, we knew we had stumbled upon it when we spotted some Instagrammers trying to get the perfect shot.

While multiple hues abound in Burano, the house of Bepi Suà is the most colorful building on the island, decorated with geometric patterns such as circles, squares, and triangles in hues of yellow, orange, red, blue and green. Bepi, born Giuseppe Toselli, was a lover of painting and movies. After his position at the Cinema Favin was eliminated, he began to sell sweets in Galuppi Square and became known as Bepi of Candies. He soon began hosting an outdoor cinema at his house with a white sheet hung on the outside wall for the neighborhood children. Those same children remember him as a the strange man who was always painting new, colorful geometric shapes on those same walls each afternoon. The exterior was everchanging until his death in 2001.

We continued our explorations (with a quick stop for lunch and gelato, of course!) and ended up back at the Il Campanile Storto and its accompanying Church of Saint Martin Vescovo. Entering the church through its Renaissance styled doorway, it was quite interesting to note that the church really had no façade…only a doorway. Established in 1000, it was finally consecrated in 1645 by the Bishop of Torcello. Restored several times over the years, the main aisle and the pipe organ were destroyed by a fire in 1913, a tremendous loss as it was created by Callidio in 1767 and was considered to be one of the greatest masterpieces of the church. Other artistic pieces to seek out today, however, are the statue of Madonna in the atrium and statues of Sant’ Albano and San Martino, on the sides of the tabernacle, by Girolamo Bonazzo and a bronze statue of the “Risen Christ” over the tabernacle. Today, the church is a modest one mostly known for its 18th century leaning bell tower.

The Chapel of Santa Barbara was a short distance away…like next door. While quite small, it serves its purpose as a place of prayer and has its own small bell tower.

Feeling as though we had finally seen the entirety of Burano, we headed to the dock and took our place in the long line while waiting for the vaporetto.

While relief from the hot sun would have been wonderful, it was now time to crowd onto the vaporetto to fulfill my husband’s Murano dream…the least I could do!

Thank goodness it was a short ride!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Il Campanile Storto

Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi, 20, 30142 Venezia, VE, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Bepi’s House

Address: Corte del Pistor, 275, 30142 Venezia, VE, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Church of Saint Martin Vescovo

Address: Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi, 20, Venice, VE Italy, 30142
Hours: 0800-1200 and 1500-1900, daily
Admission: free

Chapel of Santa Barbara

Address: Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi, 22, Venice, VE Italy, 30142
Hours: 0800-1200 and 1500-1900, daily
Admission: free

The Island Church

On an island, just across the Grand Canal, stands a bright white Palladian church, Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore.

Many times after visiting St. Mark’s square, I have stood on the banks of the waterway and stared at the church…it seemed untouchable.

Really not understanding the water taxi system, which seemed to be the way to reach this island, I was never comfortable trying to figure out how to get there, possibly making a mistake and ending up somewhere I didn’t plan. I always thought…next time. And next time never came…until I was visiting Venice with my husband one weekend.

Since two brains are better than one, together we deciphered the water taxi schedule and jumped on the one which we thought would get us there. It was a spontaneous decision and yes, it worked out…we made it across to the island!

As we pulled up to the dock, it suddenly dawned on me that we didn’t even know if the church was open to visitors…but at least we had made it there and figured that we could at least walk to the end of the island to see the lighthouse if it wasn’t.

First, we stood in the large plaza before the church and took in the basilica’s beautiful marble façade and the views of the city across the Venetian waters. Standing on the island, which was once called Insula Memmia (after the Memmo family who owned it) the church that once occupied the island, was consecrated to St. George. The San Giorgio Monastery was established in 982, when the entire island was donated for the monastery and it was built next to the church. In 1576, construction of the current church was begun.

Luckily, we found the church open for tourists and we began our explorations of the 16th century basilica.

Constructed by architect Andrea Palladio, the church’s spacious interior contains the usual things you might find in a basilica…chapels, tombs, altar, dome…but it is the artwork that takes center stage…both old and new.

Within the church’s three floors, paintings by Tintoretto were displayed including The Last Supper, The Entombment of Christ and The Fall of Manna as well as a significant masterpiece by Sebastiano Ricci, Madonna Enthroned With Saints. There were some modern pieces by Swiss artist Not Vital, Tintoretto (2020-2 silver boxes) found on the Main Altar, Pope Francesco (2020-2 silver boxes) found in the Main Chorus and the most impressive piece, House to Watch the Sunset (2021), found in the Transept, which is a large pyramid of stairs. This piece was created for the occasion of the 17th International Architecture Biennale.

*House to Watch the Sunset by Not Vital*

*Pope Francesco Silver Boxes by Not Vital in Main Chorus (far bottom right)*

Following the signs to the campanile, we paid our entrance fee and made our way to the top of the tower via the rapid ascent elevator. One of the finest examples of Venetian Gothic architecture, the bell tower was built in the 14th century by Pietro Lombardo and completed by Pietro Bellotto. From this vantage point, we had some of the most breathtaking views of the Venetian lagoon, the city and some of the nearby islands. We were also able to look down upon the cloisters of the monastery as well as gaze upward at the tower’s carillons. While the campanile of San Giorgio Maggiore is a little shorter than the Campanile di San Marco, one reason to make the trip to the island and make your way to the top, is that you don’t have to navigate its height via stairs, as you would at San Marco. I also think that the views from this perspective are more beautiful!

Exiting the church, we walked toward the harbor for an up close and personal look at the Lighthouse of San Giorgio Maggiore. While it is not one of the largest lighthouses I have ever seen, it is quite impressive with its clean masonry.

Finally, we headed back to the vaporetto dock and waited for the next boat. As it was the middle of August, it was extremely hot. The small enclosure, which offers protection from the cold and the rain, is not the best place to wait while the hot summer sun is bearing down. Dashing out back to the plaza in front of the church, we took more pictures and enjoyed the cool breeze coming off of the water until Vaporetto 2 was in sight.

Back to San Marco plaza, we headed, now feeling secure about our boat ride and how to navigate the Vaporetto system. This bit of confidence would serve us well for the rest of our trip as we navigated the city.
Another check on the Venetian bucket list…I no longer have to only wistfully stare at the beautiful church across the canal…I visited it!

There are many churches in the Venetian Islands, but this one is worth the trip!

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Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggio

http://www.abbaziasangiorgio.it/
Address: Isola di S. Giorgio Maggiore, 30133, Venezia VE, Italy
Hours: April to October, 0900-1800, daily. November to March, 0830 to 1800.
Admission: Church entrance, free. €6 for tower access
Getting There: Vaporetto (water taxi) 2 or N. You will need two one-way tickets or a 24 hour pass to visit the island. If your visit is about an hour, your 75 minute ticket may still be valid for the return.

The Frari

If you ever wonder how many churches are in Venice and the islands, I have the answer for you.

About 137.

Sometimes, I go out in search of churches while visiting European cities, sometimes I just stumble upon them, as was the case while my husband and I were spending the weekend in Venice. With that many churches in such a relatively small expanse, its not hard to find one!

We had just arrived and were having lunch in the Campo dei Frari when I noticed the cross on the adjacent building. After a few pictures on the bridge, I edged toward the building and discovered the door open. Okay, my poor husband probably wanted to see the Bridge of Sighs and the Grand Canal, but surely we had a couple of minutes to see what was inside this church.

After paying our admittance, we quickly skimmed over the brochure and map handed to us and made our way throughout the interior.

What we learned was that this was no ordinary neighborhood church. The Gothic styled Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (or The Frari) is the largest church in the city and dedicated to the Assumption of Mary. This church’s beginnings go back to 1231 when land was donated with the intent of establishing a Franciscan monastery, however, grander ambitions prevailed. A three nave church was begun in 1250, however, it took eighty-eight years for its completion. Almost immediately, another church was begun…the current church, which still stands today. Taking over a century to build, the architectural footprint was reversed and a campanile was added; the second tallest in the city. The chapel of San Pietro was built from 1432-1434, the façade completed in 1440 and the main altar consecrated in 1469. Finally, the church was consecrated on May 27, 1492 with the name of Santa Maria Gloriosa.

While we found the exterior to be rather plain, the interior was filled with many grand wall monuments dedicated to distinguished Venetians buried in the church, including a number of Doges and the painter, Titian. The three naves were separated by twelve massive columns and spanned with wooden beams. It was slow work trying to take it all in and making our way throughout the church to see all that it had to offer.

After inspecting each of the monuments, which were placed where side chapels would ordinarily be located, we examined each of the important works of art that the church is known for; the masterpiece, Assumption of the Virgin on the high altar and altarpieces by Titian, the Madonna and Child with Saints (also known as the Frari Triptych) by Giovanni Bellini in its original frame and the altarpiece Madonna di Ca’ Pesaro, by Tiziano, Madonna with the Franciscan Saints by Bernardino Licinio, Donatello Sculpture in the Chapel of St. John the Baptist, Madonna with Franciscan Saints by Bernardina Licinio, Madonna and Child with Saints and Doge, by Paolo Venezia, Madonna Con Bambino E Santi by Jacopo from Faenza and the 13th century Crucifix on the left of the high altar. My favorite, however, was the Choir of the Monks (Coro dei Frati) in its original condition with 124 wooden stalls inlaid with views of Venice, created by Marco Cozzi, which sports the only rood screen (which separates the nave from the choir) still in place in Venice.

*Assumption of the Virgin on the High Altar*

*Madonna and Child with Saints (also known as the Frari Triptych)*

*Madonna with Franciscan Saints by Bernardino Licinio*

*Donatello Sculpture* in the Chapel of St. John the Baptist

*St. Mark and Saints in the Corners Chapel*

*Altar of Saint Peter (top left)*, *Monument Dedicated to the Doge Giovanni Pesaro (middle bottom)*

We also made our way outside on the right of the church and discovered the cloister. As much as I love spending time in ancient cloisters, I was disappointed as this one seemed to be quite neglected. While there were a few elaborately carved marble statues in the courtyard and on the balconies surrounding it, the beauty of these was overshadowed by the large amount of weeds growing through cracks in the flagstone.

While the monument to Antonio Canova (1827) would be something to take in, at this point in time, it was walled off for renovations. The pyramidal structure is dedicated to the neo-classical sculptor, built by his students and intended to house the heart of the sculptor Tiziano. The heart, however, was never interred here, brought to Passagno, his birth place. As most people are confused with the shape of the monument, it is clear if those understand that Canova was a Freemason and that the pyramid is the symbol of the Great Architect of the Universe.

Finally, we headed toward the exit. In most churches, one would expect to see a pipe organ in the loft above, however, the loft was absent and a beautiful sculptural work decorated the wall around the main doorway. Definitely a way to continue to engage visitors upon their exit!

Stepping out into the sunshine, it was clear we were in Venice with a canal and bridge spread out before us. While it was time to head to some of the city’s more famous sights, I was glad that we had made the time to visit this ancient church!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari

https://www.basilicadeifrari.it/
Address: Campo dei Frari, San Polo 3072, 30125 Venezia, Italia
Hours: June 1-September 30, Monday-Thursday, 0900-1930. Friday, 0900-2300. Saturday 900-1800. Sunday, 1300-1800.
Admission: Adults, €5,00. Student (under 30 with ID card). €2,00, Senior (over 65 years), €3,00. Children (ages 0-11 years), residents of Venice, disabled travelers and assistants, authorized tour guides and leaders, free.
Getting There: From the train station and from Piazzale Roma (bus terminal) On foot: about 15 minutes, follow signs towards Frari-Rialto. By vaporetto: take Linea 1 or Linea 2, San Marco bound, get off at San Tomà stop. From Saint Mark’s square On foot: about 25 minutes, follow signs towards Ferrovia-Piazzale Roma. By vaporetto: Linea 1 or Linea 2, Ferrovia bound – get off at San Tomà stop.

No…The Other One

One of the most famous churches can be found in Barcelona.

The Sagrada Familia.

So when I was asked what I was going to do on my layover in Barcelona and I said, “Go to the cathedral,” everyone naturally assumed I was headed to the monumental landmark.

“Oh, the Sagrada Familia,” they said.

“No, the cathedral,” I replied watching the perplexed look cross their faces.

“Yes, the Sagrada Familia, the famous church,” they countered.

“No, the other one. The cathedral.” (And actually, the Sagrada Familia is a basilica and the Barcelona Cathedral, is well…a cathedral, but I can’t fault everyone for not knowing the difference).

Having always been fascinated by the architecture in the Gothic Quarter, it was a wonder that I had never visited the cathedral, one of the most visible and outstanding examples of the architectural style. Visiting Barcelona a short time after Covid protocols were put in place, I had learned that reservations were required for entry and of course, I didn’t have one on that trip. This time, I was prepared. I had purchased my timed entry before leaving New York, allowing for a short nap before heading to the Gothic Quarter.

The Barcelona Cathedral was constructed from the thirteenth to fifteen centuries (with the bulk of the work done within the fourteenth) on the foundations of a primitive basilica that was later named a cathedral. Because of the span of time taken for the completion, the distinct periods are characterized throughout its layout. The façade, which you see today, was initiated with the church’s construction, however, was not built until 1897 until 1890 and was completed in 1913.

Also known as The Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia, it was named for the patron saint of Barcelona, whose remains are entombed in the cathedral’s crypt, however, this is not the only thing to see in the spectacular place of worship.

Making my entrance, I had planned a visit of approximately one and a half hours plus some additional time for the Diocesan Museum. What I did not realize was how poorly I had planned. Moving throughout the cathedral, passing my eyes over its vast interior, it dawned on me that it would take me twice that time…maybe more.

First moving through the cathedral floor, I was entranced by the ornate side chapels and the vaulted ceiling, but I quickly reached the elevators leading to the roof within the Chapel of the Innocent Saints. Spotting a short line, I decided to take advantage of the limited wait and head to the cathedral’s highest point. After a short ride, I exited the elevator and made my way up stairways and across catwalks, spying the intricacies of the cathedral’s roof, bell towers, lateral pinnacles, the cimborio crowned by the Holy Cross as well as phenomenal views of the city. Under the azure sky of the winter afternoon, I couldn’t imagine a better place to be to take in the day!

Heading down back into the cathedral, I continued my explorations, finding myself passing through the external doors of the Pieta and of Saint Eulalia, I discovered the cloister…a place of pure peace, similar, in some ways, to other cloisters I have visited…yet it offered up a surprise. The rectangular space was made up of four galleries, separated by sculpted pillars, showing scenes from the Old Testament and from a legend about the Holy Cross. Other scenes from the New Testament were spotted on the keystones. There were distinct chapels in each gallery, but it was the center of the cloister that commanded my attention. Filled with a garden of palm trees, magnolias and orange trees, there was a vast pond centered with a fountain, dating back to the mid-15th century. Still, while the pond and the beautiful greenery took my breath away, it was the residents of this cloister that made me laugh with delight. No, not nuns…geese! The large pond is the home for thirteen white geese, who despite their natural inclination to honk (and holler), stay fairly silent, almost as if they have taken a vow of silence!

Making my way back into the main part of the church, I continued my explorations of the side chapels, finally discovering one that the cathedral is well known for, The Chapel of the Holy Sacrament and of the Holy Christ of Lepanto. Constructed in 1407, it was the Chapterhouse of the Cathedral until 1676, when Saint Olegarius was canonized and the room became his mausoleum. The former Chapter Hall is not a large one and dimly lit, but highlighted on the main altar, is the burial chamber of Saint Olegarius, the bishop of Barcelona and above that, the 16th century Holy Christ of Lepanto. Quite beautiful!

*Chapel of the Holy Sacrament and of the Holy Christ of Lepanto*

The current Chapter Hall, located near the Cloister and now a museum space, displays 15th century paintings, an 11th century baptism font and the 14th century monstrance (the receptacle in which the host is held and displayed), made up from the campaign throne of King Martin the Humane. Definitely worth a look!

Eventually, I made my way back to the cathedral’s main floor and the high altar. The high altar, the main focus in the church, almost seems lost in the vastness of the space. With its towering vaulted ceilings, and the fact that it sits above the Chapel of Saint Eulalia with the staircase leading to it in front of the altar, makes me wonder if those attending mass can even see the priest performing his ritualistic duties. Nonetheless, I think it would be an amazing experience to attend mass here.

Making my way down the stairs to the Chapel of Saint Eulalia, I peered through the wrought iron gate at the burial chamber of the saint. Designed by masters from Pisa and Siena between 1327 and 1339, the reliefs narrate the story of the saint and the sepulcher is crowned by five images, four angels with candlesticks and the image of the Virgin. Beyond the Gothic chamber is the original sepulcher of Saint Eulalia, found by the bishop of Frodoino in 878 in the cemetery of Santa Maria del Mar, and a piece of broken marble with the original inscription commemorating her. Though the crypt is not consistently illuminated, there is a coin slot that accepts payment (.50€) and will highlight the space for a few moments.

Finally, I turned toward the rear of the cathedral. In the center of the cathedral floor, between the high altar and the entrance was the Choir With the Golden Fleece Choir Stalls. Construction on this most significant work in the cathedral was begun in 1390 and designed in the Catalan Gothic Style with the canopies and pinnacles being added at the end of the 15th century. What I loved the most, however, was the colorful commemorative shields painted by Juan de Borgoña that relate to the order of the Golden Fleece who were summoned to meet in Barcelona in 1519 by their master, Emperor Charles V…thus their name. Another remarkable aspect of this space is the wooden pulpit carved by sculptor Pedro Çanglada in 1403.

Taking one last look around and at also at my watch, I realized that if I was going to visit the adjacent Diocesan museum, I had better make hast. Exiting the cathedral, I stood on the front steps and gazed up at the exterior. It really is a phenomenal piece of Gothic architecture!

It was an extremely short walk to the museum building next door, however, I had one more exterior feature that I wanted to see…the Door of Saint Ivo. Located under the bell towers, this portal was the main entrance for over five hundred years and is named for Saint Ivo, the patron saint of lawyers.

Finally, making my entrance into the museum, I began my explorations of of the artistic works that have been donated to the church. Housed in the building known as the Casa de la Pia Almoina (House of the Blessed Charity) or La Canonja (the Canonry) as it once housed the canons of St. Augustin, this structure is a part of a group of medieval buildings that are integrated into the city’s 4th century (A.D.) Roman wall.

*Exterior of the Diocesan Museum and adjacent sculpture*

The collection spans three floors and contains about 3,000 items including paintings, sculptures, ceramics and religious clothing which date from the late Roman era to the twentieth century.

After working my way through each of the floors of the museum, I noticed some of the workers tidying up and realized that it was the end of the day…time for me to go.

So, the next day, another co-worker whom I hadn’t really spoken to much on the way to Barcelona asked me how I spent my layover.

“I went to the Barcelona Cathedral. It was amazing!”

“Oh, you’re a fan of Gaudi! Did you love the Sagrada Familia?”

Sigh…

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

The Barcelona Cathedral

https://catedralbcn.org/en/
Address:Pla de la Seu, s/n, 08002 Barcelona, Spain
Hours: Monday to Friday, 0930-1830, Saturday, 0930-1730, Sunday, 1400-1700
Mass schedule: Weekdays (in the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament), 0900 (Catalan), 1100 (Catalan), 1200 (Spanish), 1915 (Catalan). Sundays and Holidays (on the High Altar), 0900 (Catalan), 1000 (Catalan), 1200 (Spanish), 1300 (Catalan), 1800 (Spanish), 1915 (Catalan). Saturdays and Holiday Eves (in the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament), 0900 (Catalan), 1100 (Catalan), 1200 (Spanish), (High Altar), 1800 (Spanish), 1915 (Catalan).
Admission: Cathedral, 9€ per person Cathedral and Diocesan Museum, 15€ per person
Getting There: Metro, Jaume I station or Urquinaona station

The Almudena Cathedral

While there are many churches in Madrid, one that is relatively new is the one that takes center stage…for many reasons.

The Almudena Cathedral.

I’ve walked by this stunning piece of architecture countless times on my visits to Madrid. Why I never stepped inside, I am not sure. Perhaps it wasn’t during opening hours, or I simply had other more pressing matters to attend. On this particular day, however, it was open and I had nothing on the agenda.

But it was not the cathedral that I happened upon first. It was the crypt.

Noticing the open doors, located in front of the Arab Wall, I wandered in.

The first thing I noticed were the columns. 400 of them!

Four hundred columns fill the space, each crowned with biblical figures, nature scenes and the symbol of Madrid, the bear and the strawberry tree (which I had also spotted earlier near my hotel).

Mirroring the same architectural footprint as the cathedral above, it is the largest crypt in Spain and the resting place of some of the country’s most notable families and to King Alfonso XII’s first wife Maria de las Mercedes de Orleans. As I wandered through the space, admiring each of the incredibly bedecked side chapels with their Byzantine mosaics and Gothic stained-glass windows. Many of the tombs were extremely elaborate, demonstrating the power and wealth of the families of those interred. The most fascinating facet, however, was the Chapel dedicated to Nuestra Senora de la Flor de Lis (Our Lady of the Lily), possibly the oldest image of the Virgin in the city.

*Nuestra Senora de la Flor de Lis (Our Lady of the Lily)*

*Capilla de los Exemos Srs Marqueses de Urquijo*

*Capilla Virgen de Rosario and Capilla de la Exema Srs Marquesa de San Juan*

Overall, it had the grand feeling of a cathedral yet more peaceful as would be expected.

Now I was ready for the cathedral itself.

Making my way out of the crypt, I walked around the corner praying that I would find the cathedral open.

The sun was getting lower in the afternoon sky as I glanced up at the cathedral’s façade. Making my way up the stairs, it was hopeful to see other people exiting the entrance.

The church, which was completed and consecrated by in 1993 by Pope John Paul II, is the first cathedral to be consecrated outside of Rome, but plans for the church date back to 1879 when Francisco de Cubas wanted to create a pantheon for the late Queen Maria de la Mercedes. Construction was started four years later, but those plans were changed as the idea for a cathedral was conceived.

Inspired by French cathedral architecture, it was the first to include a crypt and it was to be a cathedral built by the people. When donations came up short, this and other construction problems delayed the project further. The crypt was opened in 1911 but further construction was delayed with the outbreak of the Civil War. As Gothic style went out of vogue, new architectural solutions were sought out. Work was restarted in 1950 with the cloister being completed in 1955 and the main façade in 1960. With many years of construction to follow, the cathedral was finally considered finished in 1993.

As I entered and made my way around the cathedral, what struck me most was not the beautiful stained glass windows (which were amazing), not the numerous columns that filled the space (like in the crypt), not the massive organ in the choir loft, but the colorful ceiling above. It was something like I’ve never seen and very much unexpected as it not matched the classical style!

After my departure, I learned that the cathedral houses a museum which contains effigies of the city’s patron saints, the Virgin Mary of la Almudena and San Isidro of Labrador and an exhibition of the life of the Church through the seven sacraments. The museum contains twelve halls which contain mosaics, Episcopal symbols and vestments. I also learned that I had missed access to the cathedral’s dome. My understanding of this area of the cathedral is that it is not particularly noteworthy however, I am not one to pass up an opportunity! After further research, I discovered I was visiting on a Saturday afternoon when closing time for these two features was well before my arrival. So my advice to those seeking to visit both the crypt and the cathedral and the entirety of it interior…get there early!

Guess I will have to go back!

And be early!!!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Almudena Cathedral

http://www.catedraldelaalmudena.es
Address: Calle de Bailén, 10 28013, Madrid, Spain
Hours: Monday to Sunday, 0900-2030. Museum and crypt, Monday to Saturday, 1000-1430.
Admission: Cathedral, free. Museum and crypt, Adults, €6 (US$ 6.30), Students, groups, and seniors, €4 (US$ 4.20).
Getting There: Metro, Opera, lines 2 and 5. Bus numbers 3, 25, 39, 148.

Look Out Lodi, Here We Come!

Traveling with my friend Cristina is always a treat…she’s one of those few people that I can plan a trip with and expect to see everything that the city has to offer. She has as much energy as I do and always has an idea for something fun! Together, we are a traveling force to be reckoned with!

Last fall, while working a trip to Milan, we decided that we should take a day trip to a neighboring city. Scouring the map, we looked for cities that were an hour or an hour and a half away and that offered numerous sites and a city center with easy access to the train station.

Stumbling upon a cool little video about the city of Lodi, we decided that this would be our destination. With only a thirty-minute train ride (a bonus!), a beautiful Piazza and plenty of churches, it looked like there would be plenty to keep us occupied that afternoon.

Heading to Milan’s Centrale Station, we hopped on a train and struck up conversation with a young woman heading toward Bologna. She had been to Lodi and insisted that we would enjoy our excursion, especially since it was one of those no-cloud-in-the-sky warm fall afternoons.

Thirty minutes later, bidding our new friend Arrivederci, we jumped off the train and made our way toward the city center. Spying some unique architecture and passing through Passeggio Federico I Park and its many monuments, we happened upon the Porta Cremona, a monumental gate which also pays tribute to the fallen of the Great War fought in Lodi, Italy.

Gazing wistfully at the locked Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, we continued on knowing that there was much that awaited us only a few blocks away.

Heading north, we chatted as we passed numerous churches, intriguing alleyways and interesting art and architecture. Reaching the Napoleon Bonaparte bridge, which spans the Adda river, we stood on its pedestrian walkway gazing out at its muddy waters and the beautiful villas lining its banks. This bridge played an important role in the Battle of Lodi, during the French Revolutionary War, on May 10, 1796, when the French forces, under Napoleon’s rule, went head-to-head with Austrian forces, led by Karl Philipp Sebottendorf. While Napoleon was successful in this campaign, it was not a decisive battle, but one that led Napoleon to believe that he was superior to other generals and destined to achieve great things. A couple blocks from the river we found an interesting statue of Napoleon Bonaparte and a commemorative plaque.

*Napoleon Bonaparte bridge, spanning the Adda river*

As we continued our walk, we discovered a quaint little courtyard filled with plates decorating the walls. Not sure if it was attached to an artist’s studio, it was fun looking at all the displays. There were lots of little shops and cafes along the way, many closed for a few hours in the afternoon, but the best one was Gelateria Umberto. Who can resist a couple of scoops of gelato in the afternoon? Not me!

Finally, we made it to the Piazza della Vittoria (Victory Square), where the Lodi Cathedral (Duomo) takes the center stage.

Founded in 1158, the cathedral was completed in two phases, the second, being carried on from 1170 and the façade being completed in 1284. The brick entrance that faces the Piazza is Gothic in style, however, the overall building is Romanesque with a massive bell tower which was left unfinished.

As we entered the massive church, the largest in northern Italy and seat of the Bishop of Lodi, we were amazed with how much there was to see within its walls. Looking down the nave toward the altar, there were two staircases on either side. At the back of the church there were multiple tombs and along each wall, multiple side chapels, the most impressive being a simple niche containing a 15^th century, full-size wooden depiction of Christ, his disciples and his blessed mother, Mary. The church is also connected on the left to the Bishop’s Palace and a court which is the remaining part of a cloister dating back to 1484.

Up the right-hand staircase, we found the entrance to the crypt, which features a 12^th century bas-relief and is the oldest section of the cathedral. In the center of the crypt is an altar dating back to 1856, which houses the remains of Saint Bassianus in a beautifully bedecked silver case. On the left-hand side of the high altar is the altar of Saint Alberto Quadrelli, Bishop of Lodi from 1168 to 1173.

*Court remains of 15th century cloister*

Once our explorations of the cathedral were complete, we headed back into the Piazza, formerly known as the Piazza Maggiore until 1924. The town hall is located here as well as the Vistarini Palace, one of the most beautiful in the city. Porticos which protect cafe tables from the sun and the elements, line the edges of the square and it is quite colorful and scenic. It is definitely the heart of the city today where the residents meet for conversation, children play games and the local market is held on Tuesdays and Thursdays in contrast to the fairs, festivals and executions which took place during Medieval times. As countless bishops have traversed the square over time, it even saw the arrival of Pope John Paul II in 1992.

Spying another tall bell tower down one of the streets branching off of the Piazza, we set off on foot attempting to find what lay beneath. While the church we found was closed, our curiosity led us to an even greater discovery, Il Templo dell’Incoronata.

At the end of the 15th century, a brothel with a painting of an image of the Virgin Mary was located in the area known today as via Incoronata. It is said that in September of 1487, the image of the Virgin Mary wept and called on those present to build a temple dedicated to her on that site…Tempio delle Incoronata or the Temple of the Crowned.

With the assistance of all citizens of Lodi, the Temple of the City was erected and became one of the most beautiful buildings of Renaissance Lombardy. Started in 1488 by Giovanni Battagio, a pupil of Bramante, it was completed in 1503, by Lorenzo Maggi, and a portico was added in the late 15^th century and the loggia in 1882. It was through two small doors in the portico that we entered, only because we were being nosy when we saw other tourists exit. Walking a short distance thru a small, dark hallway, our inquisitiveness was rewarded with one of the most spectacular church interiors that we had both ever laid eyes on.

The octagonal space was surrounded by arches on the lower level, an altar and an octagonally domed ceiling all highlighted by copious amounts of gilt. Every space not covered in gold was decorated with paintings, most completed by three generations of the Piazza family, who were founding the most prestigious painting school in Italy. It was almost indescribable! The only disappointing part was that we were not there on Sunday when the underground space below the monumental sacristy is open to the public. In this museum space, there are three different rooms housing rare and unique works of sacred art and objects attesting to the importance of the sanctuary.

Giddy with excitement, we headed back out into the city, taking a roundabout route back to the train station. Spotting the Church of San Lorenzo, we ducked inside, perhaps to say a few prayers for our expeditious return to Milan since we were hearing rumblings of a train strike.

The city’s oldest church, after the cathedral, was built in the 12th and 13th centuries. A typical Romanesque-style church, we noticed an image of Saint Lorenzo, above the altar, to whom the church is dedicated. There were several works of art within the church and beautiful architectural details including the apse above the choir with 16^th century stucco adornments by Abbondio da Ascona and a fresco of a Resurrected Christ by Callisto Piazza.

Glancing at our watches, we noted the time and set off once again, finding ourselves in the Piazza di Castello. The Visconti Castle spread out before us, including the Torrione di Lodi (Tower of Lodi). The castle was founded in the 12th century by a member of the Visconti family, the Lord and Dukes of Milan who in the 13th and 14th centuries took possession of and then rebuilt the original fortification. In 1456, Francesco Sforza added a round tower to the northern corner of the castle which eventually (20^th century) was converted to a water tower. It has since become a landmark of Lodi greeting those who arrive into the city. Today, the castle is the seat of the Questura of Lodi, the local office of the Italian Ministry of the Interior. As we studied the exterior of the castle, we realized that we would have liked to have seen more of it, however, it is not open to the public and even if it had been, we had that train to catch!

*Visconti Castle and Torrione di Lodi (Tower of Lodi)*

Walking quickly, we headed to the train station. Catching sight of the pink-hued building with its statue dedicated to Amatori Wasken Lodi, the city’s roller hockey team(yes, really…), and the time on the station’s clock, we knew that we had made it in time to get back to Milan for our dinner reservation!

*Lodi Train Station and statue dedicated to Amatori Wasken Lodi*

While Lodi had not been on our radar as one of the Italian cities we wanted to visit initially, we were so glad that we had found that video prior to our trip which was the inspiration for a wonderful day. Being so close to Milan was a bonus, but the biggest reward was the multitude of attractions that the city has to offer and getting to share it with my friend, Cristina!

For more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram @snappingtheglobe.com.

Napoleon Bonaparte Bridge (Bridge of Lodi)

Address: Via X Maggio, 5, 26900 Lodi, Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Lodi Cathedral (Duomo of Lodi)

http://Diocese.lodi.it
Address: Piazza della Vittoria, 4/10 26900 Lodi, Italy
Hours: 0730-1200 and 1530-1900, daily
Admission: free

Tempio dell’Incoronata

http://Incoronata.eu
Address: Via Incoronata, 23, 26900 Lodi, Italy
Hours: Monday, 0930-1230, Tuesday thru Friday, 0930-1230 and 1530-1800, Saturday and Sunday, 0930-1230 and 1500-1800
Mass Schedule: Weekday Mass, Sunday and holidays: 11.30 (visitors must leave the church ten minuts before the function).
Admission: free

Museo del Tesoro dell’Incoronata

http://Incoronata.eu
Address: Via Incoronata, 25 – 26900 Lodi
Hours: Sunday, 1500-1800
Admission: free
Booking is recommended for groups and school visits.

Church of San Lorenzo

Address: 9, Piazza S. Lorenzo, 9, 26900 Lodi, Italy
Hours: Unknown
Admission: free

Castle of Visconti and Torrione di Lodi (Tower of Lodi)

Address: 26900, Lodi, Italy
Hours: 24 hours daily, viewed from exterior only
Admission: not open to the public

Back to Dubrovnik, Day Seven in Croatia

All good things must come to an end, but better things may be in store.

Our time exploring other parts of Croatia was complete, but we were leaving beautiful little Hvar Town, heading back to the beautiful city of Dubrovnik and now we knew what to expect. There were many things we wanted to do and see, including our new friend, Ivusa.

The ferry ride was a bit longer this time, but included a stop to pick up and deposit other passengers in Korčula. Since I was able to grab a spot on the back deck as we made our way to the dock, I had prime viewing of the beautiful old city. Why didn’t we spend a few days here? Definitely next time!

Four hours later, after our departure from Hvar, we were disembarking in Dubrovnik and catching a taxi to the Old Town. Our Airbnb, this time, was within the Old Town city walls…in fact, it was adjacent to Stradun, the city’s main pedestrian street, so a bit more convenient in that we didn’t have to climb twenty-two billion stairs!

After depositing our luggage in our room, we were off!

The Dominican Monastery, just around the corner, was first on our list. Dating back to the 14th century, the monastery is one of the most important architectural landmarks in the city and contains a great number of paintings, artifacts, jewelry and other items from Dubrovnik’s history. Its bell towers are prominent when walking the walls of the city, however, these not quite being as old as the monastery itself. Begun in the 16th century, they were only completed in the 18th.

Within the monastery, is the Gothic church of Saint Dominic, usually richly decorated and filled with treasures including the large golden crucifix above the main altar from the 14th century. Under construction at the time, we had to use our imaginations in order to “see” what it usually presents. The monastery museum was also quite intriguing with its vast jewelry collection and paintings from the Dubrovnik art school from the 15th and 16th centuries.

*Treasures from the Dominican Monastery Museum*

Making our way through the abbey, we noted the Capital Hall, where the monastic community held its meetings, and the porches of the cloister which were added in the 15th century. Within the cloister is a rich green oasis complete with a stone well crown and I would imagine this was a favorite place for the residents to relax and enjoy nature’s beauty.

After our visit was complete, we walked a short distance, past the clock tower, to the Church of St. Blaise. The steps of this church is both a meeting place, due to its central location near the clock tower, and a resting place, perfect for people watching. We also noticed that many from the community congregate here, including the children, who play games on the steps and in Luza Square in front of the church.

The interior of this church did not disappoint my “church fascination” with its beautifully decorated golden altar, taking my breath away when I entered. Named after the patron saint of Dubrovnik, the church was built in 1715, by Venetian architect and sculptor Marino Gropelli on the foundations of a past Romanesque medieval church. This saint is featured on the main altar in gilt silver, crafted in the 15th century by an unknown master. In the saint’s left hand is a scale model of the Romanesque church which was destroyed by the earthquake of 1667 and he is flanked by two kneeling angels. This statue was the only one which survived the fire of 1706.

In front of the church is another of Dubrovnik’s landmarks, Orlando’s column. Unfortunately, this was under renovation and closed off by metal fencing. This tall and slender stone flag column is decorated with a depiction of a medieval knight, Orlando, who according to legend, helped the people of old Dubrovnik defeat invaders in the middle ages. A monument to freedom, it details the help aquired to remain a free trade city-state and acts as a flag holder which displays the Libertas (freedom) flag as well as the St. Blaise festival flag. An interesting note about the statue; the knight’s forearm is 51.25 centimeters long, the standard Dubrovnik measurement for fabric, where local merchants were measuring, cutting and selling fabric.

*Orlando’s Column courtesy of justdubrovnik.com*

A little further down the Stradun, we headed into the Franciscan Church. Much as I wanted to visit the Monastery and Museum, I decided to wait until the next morning as I thought that seeing another monastery was probably not what my husband had in mind. The church was a good compromise as the afternoon was nearing its end and he was anxious to start happy hour and revisit Lady Pipi restaurant which was near this location.

A large complex, consisting of the church, monastery, library, and pharmacy, belonging to the Order of the Friars Minor, was built in 1317, but with its construction taking centuries to complete. The original church was destroyed in the earthquake of 1667 and much of the complex was rebuilt several times with the only remaining element being the decorated portal which overlooks the main street.

The Baroque interior was stunning as we entered through the main doors with its diagonally patterned tile floor and and large, gilded chandelier. The main altar contained a statue of Christ between four twisted marble columns and the five side altars were sculpted by Venetian Giuseppe Sardi between 1684 and 1696. An important side note, we learned, is that poet Ivan Gundulić is buried in the church.

Continuing our explorations, we decided to see more of what lay beyond the gates. A short walk past the Pile Gate, through which we had entered earlier on our return, brought us past the Amerling Fountain, the overlook for the Beach Sulic, which we would later realize was the place Cersei Lannister on Game of Thrones would stand, the Imperial Hilton Hotel and almost to the Church of St. Elizabeth, a small chapel. Heading back to the Old Town, we wandered through its streets and alleyways appreciating the architecture and its beauty.

At this point, my husband was truly at the end of his touring mode…but I spotted the Church of the Holy Annunciation. Promising only a quick peek, I ducked in and inspected the Serbian Orthodox church which was constructed in 1887. Though I was only inside for a few moments, I learned later that this impressive church has a huge collection of icons dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries within its museum and an impressive library containing over 12,000 volumes, including a gospel in Russian printed in Moscow in 1805.

Finally, it was time for the long walk up the stairs for our grilled seafood platter “A La Pipi”!

“It’s about time!” said my husband. Long days definitely lead to good things!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Krilo Ferry

https://www.krilo.hr › en

Martecchini Airbnb Apartment

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/50272540?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=c510d4a5-f5a8-4855-9be3-9af683ff60c8
Address: Kovačka ulica 2, Dubrovnik, Dubrovačko-neretvanska županija 20000, Croatia

Dominican Monastery

https://www.dubrovnikcity.com/dubrovnik/attractions/dominican_monastery.htm
Address: Ul. Svetog Dominika 4, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: Adults, 30KN, Children, 20KN

Franciscan Church

Address: 4 Poljana Paska Milicevica, Dubrovnik, HR 20000
Hours: 0900-1800, daily
Admission: free

Church of the Holy Annunciation

Address: Od Pucha 8, Dubrovnik 20000 Croatia
Hours: 0900-1600, daily
Admission: free

Islands in the Sea, Day Six in Croatia

After the constant travel we had experienced on our vacation so far, we decided that we needed a relaxing beach day!

Wanting to explore the nearby Pakleni islands, we decided that renting a boat for the day would be the best option since we own a boat at home and have experience on the water. We awakened early, headed to the small harbor and sought out a vendor. After a lot of questions with a lot of people, we were informed that since the onset of Covid we would not be able to rent the boat ourselves but rather with the assistance of a captain. I don’t know what Covid had to do with any of this, however, the addition of a captain made it quite expensive and much less private than we desired.

Instead, we analyzed the signs along the Riva advertising the water taxis and their destinations.

Palmizana Beach on Sveti Klement Island.

Mlini and Zdrilica beaches on Marinkovac Island.

Kordovon beach on Jerolim Island.

Right away, we knew that Jerolim was out of contention as it’s home to a nudist beach…not that we have a problem with that…it’s just that my body isn’t in as great a shape as it once was! Kordovon beach is one of the oldest Adriatic nudist beaches (established in the 1950s) and has been voted by CNN as the most beautiful naturist beach in Europe…sorry we had to miss it!

When we had solicited the opinions the day before at the Visitor’s bureau, from our waiters and our host, some had suggested Milini for its beauty, others had suggested Palmizana for its sheer size and facilities.

Finally, we decided to just throw caution to the wind and flipped a coin…Palmizana won! We hopped on board the next water taxi, with a handful of other travelers, and held on as our boat made its way across open water towards the islands.

*View of Hvar Town and its mighty fortress.*

A short time later, we approached a dock and were allowed to disembark. Following a path and the other passengers, we made our way to the other side of the island where Palmizana beach spread out before us, sparkling and pristine.

Renting an umbrella and two chairs, we proceeded to relax and enjoy the sun for the majority of the day with a break to enjoy a couple of beers from one of the restaurants that remained open, since it was the last day of the tourist season.

The beach was a bit pebbly and waters crystal clear, albeit a bit cold for our liking, but all in all the adventure was worth it! It was nice to relax after all of our adventures.

During the late afternoon, we headed back to the dock to make the boat crossing back to Hvar Town. My husband was a bit sunburned and anxious to take a break in the apartment, but I spotted the Cathedral of St. Stephen’s doors open, so I opted to take a quick peek!

The cathedral, located on the eastern side of the city square (Pjaca) was built on the site of an early 6th century Christian church and later the Benedictine convent of St. Mary. While the church was decorated much less lavishly than I had expected, since it was decorated by Venetian artists, it did have some redeeming qualities. The side chapels were similar in style and much more ornate than the rest of the décor with heavy marble columns. The stone pulpit dates back to the 15th century and the crucifix, over the altar, is in the Gothic style, while the rest of the church is a blend of Renaissance, Manneristic and Baroque styles.

As I stepped outside to photograph the exterior of one of the most important historical buildings in Hvar and inspect its 17th century bell tower, the priest and another gentleman were hard at work raising a very large canvas portrait of what I assumed was St. Stephen above doorway. Stepping away into the Pjaca, I admired the uniquely styled cathedral in the dwindling afternoon light.

Meeting up with my husband, we proceeded to continue our afternoon sunset observations from the Riva before the dinner hour. The golden light was stunning as it set beyond the islands that we had visited on this day and once again, the yachts began to sail into the harbor, taking their places, sometimes five deep along the dock. With as many boats on this night, surely dinner was going to be a lively affair!

Hvar, while the smaller of the three cities that we visited, was filled with charm and natural beauty. We were only there for two nights, however, it definitely left a mark on us, making me wonder how many other secret spots Croatia had up it sleeve! Tomorrow, however, we were heading back, the final leg of our journey to Dubrovnik, and we were looking forward to see all of the sites we had not had time for during our first few days!

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St. Stephen’s Cathedral

Address: Trg Svetog Stjepana 1P, Hvar 21450 HR
Hours: 0900 to 2100, daily
Admission: 10 HKN per person