Sometimes, I just love to walk around the city photographing the buildings, never having a plan and enjoying stumbling upon anything and everything.
Just recently, I was in search of a particular landmark and was a bit stumped. As I stood on the corner of Via degli Omenoni and Via Adalberto Catena, pondering which way to go, I glanced down the street and a remarkable building caught my eye. There were giant men holding up the facade! Well, not real men…stone men!
A nearby sign gave me the information that I needed…this was Casa degli Omenoni.
Casa degli Omenoni was designed by sculptor Leone Leoni as his place of residence during the 16th century. The sculptor, known for his bronze statues of Felipe II and Carlos V (which now can be found in the Prado Museum) conceived the idea for his home and place of work, however, the “omenoni” or “big men” were sculpted by Antonio Abondio, a renowned artist of the time.
Though the interior once contained a large inventory of paintings and other works of art, including the Codex Atlanticus, a book of drawings by Leonardo da Vinci, these treasures are now preserved in museums throughout the world.
Eventually sold by Leoni’s son, the home was owned by several notable Milanese families, used as the seat of a music-publishing company, the seat of a Fascist party and as a theater. Although the interior was renovated in both the 19th and 20th centuries, the facade remains largely unchanged except for the addition of the wrought iron balconies.
The exterior of the building was quite fascinating with the eight giants gracing the spaces between the windows and flanking the door frames. The men look quite ominous with scowls upon their faces and arms crossed. Honestly, I don’t think an intruder would dare to approach this residence with these wardens protecting the entrance!
You should, however, approach! Much like the “Monster House” in Rome, Casa degli Omenoni is an exquisite piece of architecture and a quick stop on your tour of Milan!
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Casa degli Omenoni
Address: Via degli Omenoni, 3, 20121,
Hours: 24 hours
Admission: Exterior free. Interior not open to public.
Getting There: A quick walk from La Scala, located behind the church of St. Fidele. Closest metro stops, Duomo, Cordusio and Montenapoleone.
A short walk from Milan’s La Scala Theater, tucked away in a nondescript neighborhood, is the Fontana dei Baci….more commonly known by the nickname, The Woman of Three Breasts.
There are many fountains similar to this design in Rome, however, this is the only one of the kind located in Milan. The statue was conceived and constructed by the former Savings Bank of Lombardy. Part of the building owned by the Cariplo (formerly the Savings Bank of the Lombardy) and adjacent to the well-known Congress Center, it sits on the corner and attracts the occasional visitor.
Like me. Or the two girls who were there, trying to get a cool Instagram or Tinder photo.
The water feature of the statue consists of a shell supported by two mighty newts with dolphins at their feet. The gushing water was believed to represent the “charity of the Savings Bank” since this was location of the offices were where taxes were paid. Two female statues flank the water feature, but it is the lady on the left that gives the statue its nickname.
The female statue, who represents the savings of the bank, holds close to her breast. a round piggy bank. The formation of the piggy bank to the mischievous eye, however, makes it look as though the female has a third breast!
The woman with “three” breasts, on the left.
Statue on right.
Okay, so its not the Trevi fountain, but worth a detour if you are coming from a performance at La Scala…especially if you are in need of updating your Instagram photo!
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Fontana dei Baci
Address: Via Andegari, 8, 20121 Milano MI, Italy (corner of Via Romagnosi and Via Andegari)
Hours: 24 hours
Admission: free
Getting There: The following transit lines have routes that pass near Fontana dei Baci. Bus, #’s 43, 57, 61. Train, R16, S4, S5, S6. Metro lines, M1, M3. Light Rail, line 1.
The city of Prague has some of the most unique and beautiful architecture in the world.
Standing atop Petrin Hill and looking over the city, it is sometimes hard to explain how everywhere you cast your glance, there is a picture. I’ve been to many cities in Europe and yet, this is the one that always takes my breath away.
Behind Petrin Hill you can observe the elegant spires of a basilica, of the Basilica of Our Lady. Though I love churches (and this one was not open while I was visiting), it was not what I was here to see.
Basilica of Our LadyBasilica of Our Lady
Prague’s Strahov Monastery, is one of the oldest Premonstratensian monasteries, (founded in 1140), still in existence in the world and it was just around the corner from my hotel. Heading there for its re-opening after lunch, I paid my admission for both the Library and the Gallery as well as for permission to take photos. Many of Prague’s historical buildings charge to take photos, without flash (of course), and in order to not get a stern warning and risk being asked to leave, I’ve learned that it is best to pay for permission if you want to capture the beauty of these building’s interiors.
The Library is beyond description. The two halls, the Theological Hall and the Philosophical Hall are filled with over 200,000 volumes and is one of the most valuable and best preserved historical collections in the world. Though you cannot actually enter each of the rooms, you are allowed to observe from the doorways, a bit difficult when its crowded or when someone does not understand that they’ve taken enough photos and they need to make way for others. The Theological Hall, designed by Abbot Jeroným Hirnhaim, is the older of the two and was established between 1671 and 1674, while the Philosophical Hall dates from 1794. Both halls are two-stories high with ceiling frescoes painted by Siard Nosecký and Anton Maulbertsch.
Theological Hall
Theological Hall
Philosophical Hall
The Philosophical Hall was built under the direction of Abbot Václav Mayer and contains more than 42,000 volumes covering topics such as philosophy, astronomy, mathematics, history and philology, while the Theological Hall’s 18,000+ volumes contain numerous editions of the Bible, many in different languages. In the foyer area, you can inspect some of these bibles, displayed in protective cases.
The foyer also contains a large collection of curiosities from the estate of Karel Jan Erban, dating back to 1798. In large display cabinets, you can observe sea fauna, collections of insects, minerals, wax replicas of fruit, archaeological collections, ceramics, handcuff and Hussite peasant weapons. The most interesting artifact, however, is the remains of the now extinct Dodo bird.
Though there are many notable buildings within the complex including the Basilica, the Abbey Building, the Convent, the Great Monastery Restaurant and the Strahov Monastery Brewery, the only other part that was open to the public (and did not involve beer) was the Strahov Gallery.
Heading over to the Strahov Gallery, I was pleased to find that it was more than just a picture gallery. While the gallery contains a large collection (more than 1500 pieces) of Gothic, Baroque, Rococo painting and Rudolfian art, there were other halls and exhibits throughout the structure.
One of the first exhibits, located in the Romanesque Hall (the monastery’s former food storerooms) detail the origins of the Strahov monastery, including a to-scale model of the monastery, photographs and a cycle of paintings of the scenes of St. Norbert, the founder of the Premonstratensian Order. There are also artifacts used during the celebrations on the occasion of the transfer of his relics to Prague.
The Summer Refectory (dining hall) dates back to 1691 and was designed by the Burgundian architect Jean Batista Mathey. Here, my attention was drawn upward to the ceiling which is covered with an amazing fresco entitled “Heavenly Banquet of the Just with Christ as the Host” by Siard Nosecký. As my attention was then cast down, I was able to admire the series of portraits with ten important figures from the monastery.
Summer RefectorySummer RefectoryWinter Refectory
The nearby Chapter Hall also displayed a beautifully, frescoed ceiling, precious paintings and works of art including an ornate gilded altar. This important room was restored in 1990 to its original appearance and is where new members join the order.
Chapter Hall
Finally, as the gallery neared its closing hour, I headed to the exposition displaying liturgical works of arts, many of Czech descent, but others from different areas of Europe and the actual picture gallery.
Walking to the exit along the hallways, there were many exquisite statues and wide windows offering a peek at the buildings serene courtyard.
A visit to the monastery is on the shortlist of things to do while in Prague, but if I could make a recommendation, it would be to visit during the afternoon hours. Once finished, you can enjoy some of the monastery’s tasty brews and have a bite to eat while looking out on one of Europe’s most picturesque cities!
An afternoon of history, culture, views, food and, of course, DRINK, this is what I call my Happy Hours!
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Admission: Strahov Library, Adults, CZK 150 (about $6.60 US), Reduced, 80 CZK (about $3.52 US), Family (2 adults + max 3 children under 15 years), 300 CZK (about $13,20 US) , Photo Permission, 50 CZK (about $2.20 US) . Strahov Gallery (open only until 1600), Adults, 280 CZK (about $12.30 US) , Reduced, 140 CZK (about $6.16 US) , Family (2 adults + max 3 children under 15 years), 500 CZK (about $22.00 US) . Photo Permission, 80 CZK (about $3.52 US) . Children under 6 years, Holders of cards for handicapped persons, members of religious orders and congregations, teachers accompanying students, free. Children over 6 years and students up to 27 years, reduced admission.
Getting There: By Metro Malostranska (line A). Then tram 22 or 23 to Pohorelec. Scenic route, take the funicular, go to tram stop Ujezd (trams 9,12,15,20,22,23). Take the funicular railway to the top of Petrin Hill and walk 10 minutes along Strahovska street. By car, parking is free of charge at the Brusnice stop on Kepler Street.
Living in the proximity of one is not for me, but I have visited and climbed a few in my lifetime.
Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands have twenty-seven potentially active volcanoes…Cayambe, Reventador, Guagua Pichincha, Cotopaxi, Tungurahua, Sangay, Chacana to name a few. The Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve has three inside its boundaries, Yanahurco, Cotocachi and Cuicocha. Since we were nearby in Otavalo, we decided to make the hour-long trek to the Cuicocha Lagoon, a volcanic crater lake known for its spectacular beauty and scenic overlooks.
The reserve, only 87 miles from Quito, attracts visitors year round who are seeking a respite from the hustle and bustle of city life. Well-paved hiking trails lead the way around the lake and through the reserve where visitors might spy spider and howler monkeys, 600 species of bird, including Andean condors, Andean gulls, hummingbirds and toucans and a wide variety of plants and flowers. Though there are waterfalls and and a rain-forest, the main attraction is the lagoon, filled with brilliantly colored water and centered with two volcanic domes that rise from the surface of the lake.
As we made our way through the sometimes steep and dusty trail, we admired the beautiful lake and Cotacachi Volcano in the distance, luckily having a fairly clear day. There were a few stops along the way which highlighted an Offerings Site (a great scenic overlook) and both Lunar and Solar calendars. Although we were not there for a long strenuous day of hiking, it was nice to have something different to see along the trail.
There is a restaurant on the premises and a boat dock which offers boat rides in the lake. It would have been interesting to see the two mile lake and islands from up close as I hear the lake bubbles from the gasses emitted from the volcano. Although seemingly serene, those bubbles are there as a reminder that there is not always stability in a volcanic region!
In addition, because of our parking location and limited time within the park, we were unable to stop at the Visitor’s Center to sign the guest book and see the exhibits which showcase the park’s inhabitants and ecological system, something that would have given us some insight to the area before beginning our trek.
Statue at Visitor’s Center
Though our visit was short, it was worth the journey for the sheer beauty of the area. The local towns are simple and charming and it would be a wonderful adventure to stay for a while to enjoy the people and delectable cuisine.
In fact, many international travelers never leave and choose to retire here!
So, if you are looking for a day trip or even to stay for a lifetime…head out to Otavalo, Ibarra or Cotacachi. The views from your backyard will be the best you’ve ever seen!
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Getting There: By car, from Quito, take Panamericana Norte to reach the ciry of Cotacachi. From here you continue for 12 kilometers until you reach the Cuicocha lagoon. By bus, from Quito to Cotacachi (closest town) costs approximately $2-3 and takes about 2 hours. You can then take a taxi from Cotacachi to the reserve for about $10, however it is recommended to make arrangements for a later pick-up.
Shopping is one of my favorite pastimes, so it comes without saying that when I am in another country, I love to seek out the local markets for unique souvenirs and crafts.
Quito’s Mercado Artesanal La Mariscal was only a block away from our hotel and after one of our long days seeing the sights of the city, we made a quick visit to see if I could find an addition to my nativity collection. This market was very similar to the ones I had visited in Peru and Guatemala and offered some unique and sometimes similar pieces. Even though I found the Ecuadorian addition to my collection, I held off on making additional purchases.
Having heard of the large open-air market in Otavalo, we decided that we would hire a driver to take us there to see what rare treasures we could find.
The colorful Indian market is the largest in Ecuador and located about a two hour drive from Quito in the Imbabura Province of Ecuador. Market days are held every day, but the biggest days are Wednesday and Saturday and products that are offered are some of the nicest in Latin America.
Built in 1970 on the Plaza de los Ponchos, the market consists of concrete umbrella shaped stalls with benches. A prime tourist destination, the town attracts visitors who not only come to see what exclusive goods they can discover but those seeking a romantic destination or one that offers a wide array of outdoor activities including hiking, crater lakes, volcanoes and parks.
Parking on the street nearby, we decided on a time to meet our driver later and made our way through the rows of vendor’s tables and umbrellas to discover what makes this market one of the most recommended by everyone I had spoken to.
As it was a Saturday, the market was quite busy and had taken over all of the side streets leading to the plaza. We wove our through the rows of vendors, stopping to inspect the different wares offered by each…ponchos, jewelry, sweaters, wall hangings, shawls, purses, jackets, masks, food items…you name it! There were even nativity sets, although I was quite content with what I had purchased in Quito.
After a while, the sheer size of the market and the amount of merchandise available for purchase was quite overwhelming. With so much competition, it was easy to barter with the stall owners, many of which were dressed in traditional outfits of white embroidered blouses with lace sleeves, and black or dark blue over skirts with white underskirts for the women and white trousers and dark blue ponchos for men. Once we had made a few purchases for ourselves and family, I began to really to take note (and lots of photos) of how colorful and beautiful my surroundings were.
With quite a bit of time left before meeting our driver, I was quite content to take a seat near the front of the plaza, people watch and try to photographically capture the excitement and hustle and bustle of the market and its participants.
So, in the end…was the two hour drive worth what we discovered?
I think the market in Quito, though not as colorful and energetic as the one in Otavalo, offered just as much of a selection of goods as what we found there. It was nice, however, to be able to discover something in another Ecuadorian city and see what else this beautiful country has to offer.
And…in the end…I got some pretty cool photos!
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Otavalo Market
Address: Plaza de los Ponchos, Otavalo, Imbabura 100450
Hours: Daily, 0700-1800
Admission: free
Getting There: By bus, from North Terminal, 2-3 hours depending on road work, $5 per person. By car, take the Pan American highway to the north from Quito.
Mercado de Artesanías El Mariscal
Address: Reina Victoria and Juan Leon Mera on Jorge Washington Road, Quito Pichincha 170150
In the Plaza Independencia, you can spend a good part of your day see only what is there, including devouring a scrumptious lunch going to mass and making new friends!
Quito’s Cathedral stands on the southern side of the plaza and is a one of the most important churches in the city. Dating back to 1535, when the Spanish founded Quito, it was given the name of Metropolitan Cathedral, until twenty-five years ago, when it was name the Primada Cathedral for the evangelizing work that the church had done over the years.
Construction of the cathedral began between 1550 and 1560 with many renovations over the years, until its completion in 1806. As we walked through the building, the many architectural styles that make up the interior should be a great contrast, however, the styles blend together remarkably…the arches are of the Gothic design, while the altar is very Baroque…the choir area is Neoclassic and the ceilings Moorish.
There are many main attractions in the church that are not to be missed that include the High Altar, gilded and backed by a monumental dome and fronted by a beautiful carved, wooden altarpiece, stunning stained glass windows, stone plates of the first settlers, its Moorish-styled coiffured ceiling, three domes (one carved in the shape of a convex quadrangle, the second, oval-shaped and the third, circular), a carved and gilded wooden pulpit (topped with a sculpture of St. Peter), ornate side chapels and the spacious high choir which houses a German organ.
Many prominent citizens have been interred here, including Mariscal Sucre (liberator Simon Bolivar’s right-hand man), Antoinio Jose de Sucre, Cardinal de la Torre, priests, bishops and many of the Republic’s presidents.
Most importantly, the cathedral houses the most notable relic in all of Quito, that of the Christian martyr, Saint Urcisino. Given as a gift from Pope Pius IX to President Garcia Moreno, it was has resided here since 1871.
The cathedral also contains a museum with many types of art, both ecclesiastical and colonial and an imitation of the Last Supper painting cannot be missed…instead of the usual dinner fare, Jesus and the apostles dine on cuy, the traditional South American dish…yes, it’s guinea pig.
It was revealed to me some time after our visit that visitors can climb through a very narrow and dark staircase and passages and emerge on the roof for a great view of the city and the square beneath, as well as climb to the domes. I guess since it was the end of our day, we missed this!
Though I was sad about not having known about the climb to the top, I had the privilege of looking down on the city from many vantage points during my visit…from the top of the Teleferico, from Panecillo Hill and from the top of the Basilica. Instead of being regretful of what we did not get to do, I will focus on the many beautiful things we witnessed inside this amazing cathedral!
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Admission: National Tourists, Adults, $2.00, Children, Students, Seniors, People with Disabilities, $1.00. Visit to Domes (Church+Museum+Domes) $4.00. Foreign Tourists, Adults, $3.00, Children, Students, Seniors, People with Disabilities, $2.00. Visit to Domes (Church+Museum+Domes) $6.00.
With so many things to do and see in Quito’s historic city center, it was hard to choose, much less squeeze as much as we could into one day!
Trying to maintain a balance of churches, convents and monasteries was the challenge as there are so many to visit.
The Monasterio Museo del Carmen Alto was one of the monasteries that I was interested in for its rich history. Built in 1653, it is still home to twenty Carmelite nuns and houses an fascinating museum.
The whitewashed, two-story building was the former home of Quito’s patron saint, Mariana de Jesus (1618-1645). Today, thousands of pilgrims make their way to the monastery to pay their respects to this Ecuadorian saint. Thousands more come to tour the exhibits which explore the daily routines of the cloistered nuns who have made their lives here, the religious art and artifacts from the monastery’s prestigious history and to purchase some of the nuns traditional sweets.
The cloistered nuns at Carmen Alto stay busy by producing limones desamargados, hollowed out tiny lemons filled with a sweet creamy center. After your visit, make sure to stop by the gift shop near the exit where you can stock up on these sweet treats as well as traditional baked goods, aromatic waters for nerves and insomnia, bee pollen, honey and bottles of mistela (anise-flavored liqueur).
The Museo del Carmen Alto is a great place to soak up some of Quito’s religious history as well as gather some unique souvenirs!
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Address: Garcia Moreno y Rocafuerte, Junto al Arco de la Reina, Quito, Pinchincha 17015
Hours: Wednesday-Sunday, 0930-1700
Admission: Adults, $3.00, Students (with I.D.), $2.00, Children, $1.50, Seniors over 65 years and those with disabilities, free. Spanish tours, free. English tours, $4.00.
Getting There: Located in the Historic Center of Quito on García Moreno and Rocafuerte streets, next to the Arco de la Reina. By Trolebus, stop at the station of the Plaza de Santo Domingo. By car, parking available on La Ronda, Guayaquil Street, in Cadisan, Calle Mejía and García Moreno.
There are five UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Ecuador.
The city of Quito received the prestigious honor in 1978.
Notorious for it equatorial crossing, Quito is known as the Middle of the World. It’s famous Old Town, which helped to earn its UNESCO World Heritage status, can be found in the middle of the city.
Founded in the 16th century on the ruins of an Inca city, the capital of Ecuador is one of the best preserved and least altered historic centers in Latin America. The city’s chief attraction is its Old Town, el Centro Historico, and its ample array of churches, monasteries and convents which date back to the beginnings of the colony. The Old Town spans a relatively small area, so it is quite easy to cover the distance in a day. Trying to decide what to see within that area is the most difficult part.
The best way to begin the exploration of Quito is in the Plaza de la Independencia, the city’s main square. Since the Basilica had taken up our entire morning, we would officially begin our tour the Old Town here.
Also known to the locals as Plaza Grande, the square is a part of the city’s rich history and a place where they go to chat, relax, play, eat and sometimes, get their shoes polished! It is surrounded by some of the most beautiful buildings in the city, including the Governor’s Palace (Palacio de Gobierno), the home and office of the Ecuadorian president, the Metropolitan Cathedral (Cathedral Metropolitana) and a centralized fountain surrounded by well manicured gardens.
Deciding to have a bite to eat before beginning our explorations we wandered into the Palacio Arzobispal (Archbishop’s Palace), a beautiful manor located along the north side of the plaza, which is the official residence of the Archbishop of Quito. In its three cobblestone courtyards, there is a multitude of shops and eateries. In this mall, we found Cafe del Fraile situated on the second floor, extending onto the ornate wooden balconies.
The food and service were equally as good as the scenery, both inside the restaurant and out. Seated on the balcony, we had an excellent view of the courtyard below and of some of the beautiful religious artwork that decorated it. So mesmerized by the theological pieces, I had to take a walk throughout all of the rooms, to make sure I didn’t miss anything!
After our meal was complete, we proceeded into the plaza. We found that the police had completely surrounded the square with tall wire fencing and would only let us out onto Venezuela Street. Not sure what was happening, our question was answered a short time later when a band of protesters came marching down the street, carrying signs and bullhorns. Deciding to cross over to the other side of the square on another street, we headed to the Church of La Compañía de Jesus (The Church of the Society of Jesus).
After paying our admission, I inquired as to whether photos were allowed. Not surprisingly, I was told no, as is the norm in many of the churches in Ecuador. Of course, after beginning our tour of the church, I was so enthralled with the sheer artistry of the interior, that I had to try and capture as much as I could without being seen.
Built over a span of 160 years, this church is known as the most beautiful church in the city and possibly all of Ecuador. Its gold leaf interior, elaborate design and traditional architecture are some of the most captivating I have ever witnessed.
Moving on, we headed to the El Museo Camilo Egas…well, not really headed. As we were walking by, we were invited in by the security guard. Not sure of what we were going in to see, we just decided to go with it.
This museum is dedicated to one of the great modern Ecuadorian artists of the twentieth century, Camilo Egas. This exhibition showed the different stages of his work during his lifetime (1898-1962) and is housed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion.
As we walked along in the city, we enjoyed the handsome architecture…some buildings in better condition than others. The thing we enjoyed the most, however, was the people, most going about their daily activities and those practicing their traditional trades…the hatters, shoemakers and food vendors.
It was pretty easy to navigate the city using Google Maps on my Iphone, however, people often relate that making their way around the Old Town can be quite confusing. Noticing different types of signs, we learned that many streets have two different names…the official name on green plaques and the historical name painted on ceramic tiles. Most streets in the immediate Old Town area, however, have been laid in a grid-like fashion, from north to south, so getting around the center is fairly easy.
Heading in the direction of Panecillo Hill, we had decided to make our way to Calle La Ronda, the local nightlife area, when we were stopped by the police. Apparently we stuck out like the tourists that we were and they wanted to make sure that we were cautious if we were heading toward Calle La Ronda, an area sometimes known for pickpockets and thieves. A lively area in the evenings, we had thought to check it out during the day in the event that we decided to head there for dinner later that evening.
Though the walk was uneventful, heading down off of the overpass to access Calle de la Ronda, seemed a little sketchy. Once we were on the street, however, we found it to be quiet and lined with many historic buildings. It was interesting to find out that in the past, men would serenade the women on the balconies. If they sung well, they were invited to come in and meet the family and the woman. For those that could not carry a tune? They were only met with a bucket of water to their head!
Music still plays a big part on the mile-long stretch of the pedestrian street. During the evenings, especially on Friday and Saturday, the music is cranked up and you can find many restaurants cooking up Ecuadorian specialties and vendors selling handicrafts. We did head there later that evening, but found the loud music to be quite overwhelming and chose a quieter restaurant at the far end of the street.
Swinging by the Plaza Santo Domingo, I had hoped to be able to enter the church, however we found it to be closed. Inquiring with some of the vendors, I was told it would be open later in the day. Knowing our afternoon was coming to a close, I admired the uncrowded plaza which lent to some beautiful photos and we moved on. Later that evening, when we departed Calle La Ronda, we were able to observe the Church of Santo Domingo lit up beautifully and how crowded the square had become. If street performers is your thing, this is the place to go!
Continuing on our walk through Old Town, we decided to visit the Museo del Carmen Alto which is situated on the location where Saint Mariana of Jesus (Quito’s patron saint) lived and died. (Read more about it in a future post)
Nearing Plaza Independencia, we found that the police had removed the barricades and the square was back to its normal everyday routine. Though my husband was growing tired of visiting churches and desperately wanted to grab a seat and have a beer, I persuaded him to make one last push.
The Metropolitan Cathedral situated on the southern side of the plaza was a place that I had really wanted to visit and it did not disappoint. Though it is not as extravagant from the exterior, the interior has some amazing treasures. (You can read more about in in a future post)
So that was it! SO much to do in Quito’s old town and we had only made a dent. We were spending the next day traveling out to Otavalo and its sprawling market, so seeing the rest of Quito’s treasures would have to wait until a future visit.
When spending time in Quito, there is so much more to see…the Museo Alberto Mena Caamaño and its waxworks, the Casa de María Augusta Urrutia or the Casa de Sucre, to get a glimpse inside the best preserved Old Town houses and the Governor’s Palace (tours leave every 20 minutes starting at 0900). And for the church lovers like me, there are countless sanctuaries throughout the city, many within Old Town, including Plaza de San Francisco and its baroque church, Basilica of our Lady of the Merced, The Church of El Sagrario, Carmen Bajo, Church of San Agustin, Santa Catalina de Sienna Church and Convent, Church of San Blas, El Belén, The Guápulo Church and Convent.
I really must go back!
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Admission: National Tourists, Adults, $2.00, Children, Students, Seniors, People with Disabilities, $1.00. Visit to Domes (Church+Museum+Domes) $4.00. Foreign Tourists, Adults, $3.00, Children, Students, Seniors, People with Disabilities, $2.00. Visit to Domes (Church+Museum+Domes) $6.00.
We spotted it from high above the city at the top of the Teleferico…and from Panecillo Hill. Heck, we could even see it from our hotel room!
There is one stunning structure that dominates Quito’s Old Town skyline.
The Basilica of the National Vow.
In 1883, the idea to build a church that demonstrated Ecuador’s devotion to the Roman Catholic church and the Sacred Heart was recognized by Father Julio Matovelle. Though funds were set aside by the Ecuadorian Congress the following year, hoping to put Ecuador on the map with such a prestigious building, it was not enough.
Seeking to gain the assistance of the whole nation, donations were accepted in the form of stone blocks with the vow that upon the church’s completion, the names of the donors would be carved into them. To ensure the remaining funds were in place, a tax on salt was then instituted and collected.
After over a hundred years of construction and despite a blessing by Pope John Paul II in 1985 and its inauguration in 1988, the basilica is not considered technically complete. In fact, local legend says that when the Basilica is finally completed, it will be the end of the world.
Located in the Santa Prisca neighborhood of Quito’s historic Old Town, this basilica which is often compared to Paris’ Notre Dame. It is the largest in the Americas and in Quito, which made navigating the streets seeking its destination quite easy as it towers above everything nearby, perched upon a hill.
Indeed, as I gazed upon this neo-Gothic architectural marvel, it did remind me of Notre Dame, however, as I approached, gazing upward, there were no gargoyles. The French architect, Emilio Tarlier, instead, used turtles, iguanas and other animals native to the Galapagos Islands and the Amazon, the pride and joy of the Ecuadorian culture. He also altered the style of the church to blend in with the Spanish style of the city’s Old Town, which has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage since 1978.
After paying our admission, we wandered through the main floor of the basilica, admiring the colorful stained glass windows, bronze and wooden doors, artfully tiled floors, religious artwork and statues, vaulted ceilings and wooden confessionals. There were many side chapels and altars as well as the tombs of Gabriel Garcia Moreno, the former president of Ecuador and former Archbishop, Jose Ignazio Checa Barba.
As we stared appreciatively at the giant rose window at the far end of the basilica, we noticed people congregated in the gallery beneath the window. Searching for a stairway leading to this area, we found ourselves outside in a large, stone courtyard. Asking around, we finally determined that we needed to visit the ticket window in the courtyard to pay for access to the upper level, including the towers.
Finally, making our way up the stairs, we first stood upon the gallery which offered a magnificent view of the church below and a close-up view of the stained glass windows, including the stunning rose window. Stepping out a few feet within an opening we were also able to see parts of the the exterior of the basilica, as well as the flying buttresses and close-ups of some of the stone animals that decorate the exterior. Continuing our ascent, we made our way past the cafe and entered the clock tower. A fascinating space, we were able to inspect the inner workings of the massive clocks and old pictures of the construction of the basilica that decorated the tops of the walls. Here, we also had spectacular views of the city as well as the basilica’s other tower.
On the other tower, we could see movement and discovered that there were visitors making their way up and throughout the structure. We had not seen a walkway or any other point of access that would lead to this tower. Stepping into the gift shop, we discovered that on the other side of this shop, there was an entrance to the Condor Tower. It was a rather scary, narrow plank walkway leading across the basilica above the vaulted ceiling. A little apprehensive, we cautiously made our way to the other side and up the narrow ladder to the outer platform. Walking around the tower, we found the narrow stairs leading up to the top of the tower. Waiting our turn, as their was only room for one person moving up or down, I gathered my courage and made the steep climb. Not normally scared of heights, I could appreciate the spectacular view of the church’s roof and clock towers, but as I stood there, I thought about the instability of the area. What if an earthquake suddenly shook Quito? We took a quick couple of photos together, but I honestly couldn’t make the climb back down and over the walkway back to the main structure fast enough!
The Basilica del Voto Nacional is a breathtaking landmark for the churchgoers that call it home and for the thousands of tourists that visit to regard its beauty each year. Representing the breathtaking architecture found throughout the country it is both alluring and a welcoming respite for those seeking to pray and pay respects. It is important to allow at least two hours to fully appreciate all aspects of the church, especially the climbs into the towers. Though a bit daunting to some, making the ascent to see the views of the city landscape and El Panecillo between the spires is one you will never forget.
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
Basilica del Voto Nacional Quito
Address: Carchi 122 y Venezuela., Quito, Pichincha 170150
Hours: 0900-1700, daily
Admission: Church admission, $2.00 US, Tower admission, $2.00
As we drove through the darkened streets of Quito toward our hotel, it was as if a ray of sunshine cast itself through the nighttime skies down on Panecillo hill.
Fittingly, before the Spanish arrived, the Incas used this hill as a place to worship the sun. At night, it is lighted so that it is visible for the entire city to see and is the location of an icon that is worshiped by millions.
The Blessed Virgin.
Commissioned in 1976, by the religious order of the Oblates, the statue was designed by Spanish artist Agustín de la Herrán Matorras. The statue, which is 134 1/2 feet high, is made up of seven thousand pieces of aluminum, which reflects the light of the day and continually makes itself known, high above the city.
After seeing this amazing statue from afar, upon our late night arrival, I knew that I had to see it up close. Taking an Uber through the winding streets that led up to the top of Panecillo hill, I gasped at the enormity of the statue as we pulled into the parking lot.
As I stood beneath her, I took note that she is much like other classic virgin statues, stepping on a snake while standing atop a globe. What makes this virgin less like others, however, is her angelic wings and the fact that her posture gives the impression of a dancer, much like the Virgen de Quito sculpted by Bernardo de Legarda in 1734 and on display in the Church of St. Francis.
The hill upon which the Virgin stands offers amazing 360 degree views of the surrounding city and mountainous areas beyond on clear days and we noticed many people here relishing the views as well as purchasing souvenirs and food at the many kiosks that surround the area.
Entering the Virgin statue, we paid the entry fee and proceeded to climb the stairs to the three levels which present religious icons, artwork and beautiful stained glass windows. Upon reaching the uppermost level, it was possible to see the innards of the statue…a fascinating glimpse at how the largest of this kind of monument was put together.
Making our way down and to the exterior, we admired the statue from the different levels of the landscape, appreciating how the late afternoon sun illuminated it so beautifully.
While a trip to the top of Panecillo Hill is a relatively easy one with the large availability of taxis and Ubers, it might be tempting to make the uphill hike through the neighborhoods below, especially if you are in the downtown Quito area. Be cautious as we were warned of vicious neighborhood dogs and muggings that haunt the inclined area. It should be known, as well, that cell service was not very good at the top of the hill and we luckily found a taxi before attempting to make the downhill hike. Nevertheless, a visit to the Virgin of Panecillo is one that all visitors to Quito should make to appreciate its artistry.
For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.
