The False Apse

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

When in Milan, everyone ensures a visit to the Duomo, the city’s wondrous cathedral.

There are, however, a great many other churches throughout the confines of the city limits, each with their own special notoriety.

Having made many trips to the Duomo, I have made it my mission to mark off each of the others on my map during my visits to Milan. One by one, I researched and chose carefully for the particularities of each. As I set out from my hotel, I made my way toward the the one that I had my eye on and it was actually just around the corner from the Duomo…Santa Maria presso San Satiro.

This Italian Renaissance structure was built from 1476 to 1482 and houses the early medieval shrine to Satyrus, brother of Saint Ambrose. Constructed on the site of a primitive place of worship, dating back to 879, the church was commissioned by the Duke Galeazzo Maria Sforza and designed by Donato Bramante. It was once an important pilgrimage site during the 13th and 14th centuries when word reached the masses that it contained an image of the Madonna that shed real blood when stabbed.

Though there are many interesting features, the one that everyone comes to see is the false apse, one of the early examples of trompe l’oeil. Working with a small plot of land within the city, there was not enough space to build the choir, the space behind the altar. The church’s dimensions had to be abridged, making the space awkwardly short. Bramante’s solution was to formulate an area by creating an optical illusion. As I walked into the space, indeed, there appears to be a real apse behind the altar, but as I made my way throughout the church and to the side of the altar, it was evident that it is only a relief applied to the back of the wall.

I must admit, I was so intrigued, I made three or four trips back and fourth from the entrance of the church to the side of the altar to compare what I was seeing.

After resolving my visions, I spent a great deal of time discovering the other treasures within the multi-naved church, including an image of Virgin with Child and Two Donors, the 15th century baptistry, several terracotta busts in the sacristy, an altarpiece of the Extasis of St. Phillip Neri by Guiseppe Peroni and outside, the Romanesque bell tower that dates back before the 1480s construction. Besides the main attraction, however, is one other major piece of artistic importance, the Cappella della Pietà, the chapel built in the 9th century to honor Saint Satiro, brother of Saint Ambrose. This chapel houses the 15th century terra-cotta Pietà and lovely Byzantine frescoes and Romanesque columns. As is throughout the rest of the church, the lighting is dim, but you can drop in 1 euro into the box so that the space will be illuminated.

The rich decorations throughout the church intrigued me as I wondered throughout investigating every niche. The ceiling of the main nave was golden and lent to the warm glow throughout and the beautiful tri-chrome floor under the magnificent dome was spectacular.

Exiting the church, I turned to re-examine the facade which remained largely unfinished, until the 19th century, due to disagreements between the architect and the executor Giovanni Antonio Amadeo. Tucked away behind the gates, on Via Torino, its quite easy to realize how many people would walk on by, mesmerized by lure of the great Duomo which lies a short distance away.

Don’t walk on by. Don’t go to the Duomo.

Step through the gates and discover this work of artistic and archaeological importance!

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Santa Maria presso San Satiro

  • Address: Via Torino 17-18, 20123 Milan Italy
  • Hours: 0900-1200 and 1430-1800, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Metro, M1 line to Duomo station.

Let’s GO Lego!

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

LEGO have been around since before I was born.

Sitting on the floor of my childhood home, my brothers and I used to have major competitions to see who could build the best houses, the best cars or any other idea that caught our fancy. Sometimes we were quite successful in our endeavors…sometimes it was an utter fail!

My three children all played with LEGO and although they are now grown, we still have the boxes filled with small pieces stored away as they can’t seem to part with something special from their childhood.

Lately, it seems that LEGO are everywhere we look. A new Primetime television show highlights LEGO enthusiasts and their creations competing to be crowned LEGO Master. A LEGO exhibit, The Art of the Brick, is touring the world (currently in Los Angeles) and highlights more than 100 original sculptures and re-imagined versions of some of the world’s most famous art masterpieces.

It was the knowledge of The Art of the Brick that prompted me to trek across Milan to visit the latest LEGO exhibition, I Love LEGO that was being hosted in Milan’s Museo della Permanente. It was a rainy day…the perfect kind of day to spend indoors enjoying an art exhibit and I was excited to see what this one offered, knowing that Art of the Brick had been in Milan during the past few years.

Museo della Permanente

After paying my admission, I headed up the stairs to the exhibition rooms where there I was greeted with the first display…the Grande Diorama City. Consisting of 250,000 pieces, this city contains the Legoland Hospital and the Empire Brick Building (topped with King Kong) and a waterfront, a la French Riviera style, complete with small, luxury yachts that even Oprah would be tempted to book a holiday on.

Next on the agenda was a reconstruction of the Forum of Nerva, which was completed and inaugurated by Marcus Cocceius Nerva in AD 97. Though rather small, this figure was created with 80,000 pieces and looks like many of the buildings that can be seen in Rome. There are dozens of miniature soldiers and a tiny Julius Caesar-like figure!

Moving on, Space was the subject of the next diorama. Though the first two peaked my interest for their originality, I was a bit disappointed with this one. Consisting of only 12,000 pieces, it was laid out like a landing strip with individual space ships and vehicles laid throughout. Maybe some people can not build space ships, however, I felt that particular display had no originality, most of it looking as though it was constructed from store-bought kits.

The exhibit continued through a small, purple room, lined with pictures frames made of LEGO bricks highlighting famous works of art made in the LEGO people style…think Vermeer’s Girl With a Pearl Earring, La Giaconda’s Mona Lisa and Jan van Eyck’s Portrait of a Man in a Red Turban.

Partitioned into three sections was a large room containing the next three exhibits. First, I studied the Pirate Diorama, another sad model that only incorporated 12,000 pieces and looked like it was also assembled from store-bought kits. There were two pirate ships, an island filled with palm trees and an alien-like octopus…or so I thought that is what it was.

In the next section was the Castle Diorama built from 250,000 pieces. This one at least appeared to be original and interesting to investigate the areas of the castle’s grounds.

The final section, was called the Eyrie, a massive fortress inspired by the television series Game of Thrones. This immense piece took two years to complete and covers a surface of nine feet, while the actual piece is almost six feet tall. There are many alcoves and openings to discover in the fortress and I was really able to appreciate the ingenuity and imagination required to build such a piece.

On I proceeded…

To the LEGO playroom?

Okay, I thought, this must be the pit stop for kids to duplicate what they have seen before moving on.

But…there was the gift shop…and there was the exit!

Seriously?

I paid 13 euro to see seven LEGO exhibits with only a third of them worth the admission price! This was not what I was expecting! I had anticipated huge, original pieces and duplications of masterpieces (not paintings…full-scale replicas).

So, what’s a girl supposed to do?

I forced myself to do another walk-thru, went back to my hotel room and looked up the dates of The Art of the Brick.

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I Love LEGO

  • https://www.ticket.it/legomilano
  • Address: La Permanente, Via Filippo Turati 34, 20121 Milan
  • Hours: 0930-1930
  • Admission: 8.00€ to 15.00€
  • NOTE: This exhibit was active from October 2019 until February 2020 and is now closed.

The Art of the Brick

  • https://californiasciencecenter.org/
  • Address: California Science Center, 700 Exposition Park Drive, Los Angeles, CA 90037
  • Hours: 1000-1700, daily
  • Admission: Adults (ages 18-64), $19.75, Children (ages 4-12, 3 and under free), $12.75, Students (age 13-17 College Students with ID), $22.70, Seniors (age 65+), $22.70.
  • Note: Open now until September 7, 2020

Not A Plain Jain

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

No discriminating religious institution visitor here!

Churches, temples, synagogues, mosques, chapels, basilicas, monasteries, convents…you name it! They are all on my visitation list when exploring a new city.

When we set out for our day in Mumbai, I had a loose plan. I knew that if we encountered any temples or churches, I would want to visit, however, I didn’t have any particular one in mind.

“Abdul…can we visit a temple?” (as our day came to a close…)

Abdul navigated his way through the streets of Mumbai and before long, we pulled over to the side of the street. He showed us the entrance to the Jain Temple Mumbai (also known as the Babu Amichand Panalal Adishwarji Jain Temple) and told us that he would park further down the street and wait for us.

Not sure what was in store for us, we cautiously entered the front gates and were immediately confronted with the rules of the temple. Some were incredibly interesting!

When I began to glance at the temple and its surroundings, I was extremely excited to explore it further. The temple is very interesting in that the entire premises is covered by a high roof that allows light to enter and which I also assume protects the decorated temple from the elements. The Jain Temple Mumbai is a place of religious significance and was built more than a century ago in 1904. The shrine is dedicated to Adishwara, the founder of Jainism and is the largest of the Jain temples in the city.

Ditching my sandals, I approached the temple and was stunned by its unique architecture and beauty. I was awed at the two stone elephants that greeted me at the stairway and the ornate archways and pillars that lured me further inside. Admittedly, I was a bit apprehensive about stepping inside and taking photos, but no one seemed to pay me any attention as they went about their business.

As I made my way throughout the temple, I discovered colorful sculptures and columns decorated with multi-hued and intricately carved flowers, marble floors and detailed paintings. As I glanced upward, I marveled at an amazing domed ceiling bedecked with symbols of the zodiac.

There were many worshipers, each paying their respects to the twenty-four tirthankaras and idols that could be found in the small alcoves. What I found most interesting, however, was a statue that a group of women were painstakingly changing. There were metal pieces, sort of like a coat of armor, that they were switching out to give the statue a different look. Was this Adishwara? Sadly, I never discovered the answer.

At the time, I didn’t know much about this religion, however, I later learned from Abdul, that the Jains are peace loving people who maintain their principles and avoid violence, most not even willing to kill an insect. They take great pride in and contribute greatly to the maintenance of their temples.

Having been to many different temples in throughout the world, I knew that I would see something different here in Mumbai. How ornate and elaborate it was, however, was a surprise to me and I loved the unique elegance of this place. It was no surprise to learn that this particular temple is renowned among the Jains for its unsurpassed beauty. Also, my visit left me wondering how I never knew this religion to exist. I am a well traveled person and am familiar with many religions and cultures yet, this one escaped me. Nonetheless, I was extremely grateful to be allowed to visit and learn something new and valuable.

Thank you Abdul!

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Chandabala Jain Temple

  • Address: 41 Walkeshwar Ridge Road, Malabar Hill, Mumbai
  • Hours: 0500-2100, daily
  • Admission: free

The Gandhi House

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Located on a pretty, tree-lined street in downtown Mumbai is the former home of one of the most famous people of India.

Mahatma Gandhi.

This was our second stop (if you don’t count shopping and a quick breakfast at Leopold’s) on our fast tour of Mumbai and I was very excited to see the house that Gandhi lived in and used as his headquarters from 1917 to 1934.

Mahatma Gandhi, who was born in 1869, in western India, was an Indian lawyer, anti-colonial nationalist and political ethicist who led the country to obtain their independence from British Rule. He led a very eventful life and is widely known around the globe even in death.

His home on Laburnum Road now acts as a museum and is free to visit. Upon entry, I discovered the small lobby of the museum, however, the majority of the first floor is used as a library, filled with books and manuscripts. There is a large bust of Gandhi, his many quotes emblazoned above the doorways and countless pictures line the walls.

Moving on to the second floor, up a staircase lined with photographs, I found the space which acted as Gandhi’s personal bedroom. Kept preserved in its original condition, his bed and charkha (spinning wheel) were kept as he left them and the space is protected by glass partitions. Also on the second floor is a photo gallery with snapshots of Gandhi’s life. There are also photos, letters and press releases on display for visitor’s to peruse.

The best part of the second floor, however, are the dioramas. These beautifully constructed scenes highlight important events and meetings in Gandhi’s life.

I later found that there is a rooftop terrace that is accessible, however, I do not remember finding an entrance. It was a beautiful day and I wish we had been able to ascend to a spot where I am sure that Gandhi spent his afternoons enjoying the sunshine.

Though my visit was rather short, this historic home had an amazing story to tell. It was most enjoyable walking through and discovering the space that such an important figure called home.

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Mani Bhavan

We Like Dirty Laundry

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The mysteries of India have always escaped me…until this year.

As I finally headed east, on a fifteen hour flight from New York to Mumbai, my mind pondered what I would discover. Would there be cows wandering the streets? A haze of pollution hovering over the city? Decrepit conditions throughout?

The preconceived notions of stories that I had heard about India filled my head and I must admit, I was a bit nervous.

Though it was a late night arrival at my hotel, I was up early and ready to meet my driver who was to take me to investigate some of the main sights of the city.

Pulling out into the streets, I was pleasantly surprised. The day was warm with clear skies and the roadways were not as busy as I had imagined early that morning. The streets were relatively clean and the architecture throughout was most intriguing. I loved speeding along the waterfront as I took in everything around me.

My driver, Abdul, asked me what destination was most important to me.

That was easy! The photographer in me wanted color and energy! I wanted to see what the locals did every day and something that was part of the local history.

Dhobi Ghat fit the bill.

Constructed in 1890, Dhobi Ghat is an open air laundromat that launders clothes and linens from Mumbai’s hotels, hospitals and garment dealers among others. The washing, done by dhobis (washer men) and their families, is executed in rows of open-air concrete wash pens, each fitted with its own flogging stone which is used to agitate the items after they have been dipped in sudsy water. The washed items are then dried on rows and rows of clotheslines. After the drying has been completed, the clothes are neatly pressed and delivered to the owners.

There are specific tours that allow visitors a closer look at the action, however, time was limited and I was anxious to see as much of the city as I could during my short visit. As we stood on the platform adjacent to the flyover bridge of the Mahalaxmi Railway Station, I marveled at the spectacle below. Rows of colorful pieces of fabric filled the lines strung between the stalls where the dhobis work. Regretting that I had forgotten my larger camera with its telephoto lens, I aimed my Iphone and hoped that I would be able to capture the vibrant atmosphere.

Mahalaxmi Railway Station

The laundry is a flurry of activity for approximately 18-20 hours per day and is best viewed in the early morning and early afternoons when the facility is awash in color as the clothes hang to dry. Each dhobi uses his own the labor intensive system to sort, wash, hang and iron the pieces they are responsible for. Keeping track of the multiple pieces is done by codes imprinted on the back of the pieces and the gathering and return of the items is done by independent agents. It’s fascinating to witness!

Next time, I’m going back for the interior tour. Doing my own personal laundry is something is don’t care to do, but this inspired me!

I also realized something very important!

It’s actually not so bad getting multiple loads done in my washing machine and dryer after all!

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Dhobi Ghat Laundry

  • Address: Near Mahalaxmi Railway Station, Bapurao Jagtap Marg, Shanti Nagar, Lower Parel, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400034
  • Hours: Best viewed in the early morning and early afternoons.
  • Admission: Free, if viewed from the flyover bridge of the Mahalaxmi Railway station. Tours available from various companies.

The Point of Exit

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Truly one of the most devastating events of mankind, we need to see and constantly be reminded of the Holocaust, so that horror is never repeated.

Of course, everyone knows the story of Anne Frank. I have visited the museum dedicated to her memory in Amsterdam and have also visited the Holocaust museum in Washington D.C. I have also read many books on the subject and plan to visit some of the former concentration camps during my future travels. It is heartbreaking to realize how many perished during this time and the terror they must have faced, but education is important so that we have understanding and compassion for what transpired during that time.

As I was researching items of interest in Milan, I stumbled upon a museum which is relatively unknown to most tourists even though it is located a short distance from Central Station, the point of entry and exit to the city for both tourists and locals.

During the war, when the Jews were being rounded up and transported to the concentration camps, Milan Central Station was the point of exit for many Italian Jews.

Not a point of exit for escape…

A point of exit to their new existence…that of one in Nazi concentration and extermination camps.

The platform, which is located, out of sight, in the area below the main level of Milan Central Station, is where prisoners departing from San Vittore prison were loaded onto cattle wagons and sent to their demise.

Milan Central Station

Today, this platform has been transformed into a place where visitors can come to remember and gain knowledge. It is a symbol of the deportation of all Jews and other persecuted people who left their homes and cities in the same manner, never to return.

Entering the museum, I discovered a very modern space dominated by a long wall in the center. The word Indifference is engraved here, representing the reason why this museum was possible. At the top of the ramp, I entered the third level where I began the actual museum experience.

Twenty-four parallel tracks run through the center of the museum, once the area created for postal wagons, and display the original cattle cars which were used to cram thousands of prisoners inside for their expulsion between 1943 and 1945.

An extremely sobering experience, you can walk inside and through the cars to the opposite platform. Once inside these claustrophobic spaces, however, it is rather frightful to think about being jammed into this small car, shoulder to shoulder, with no food, water or fresh air. Although I wanted to pay my respects to the small memorials set up in each of the cars, I had to constantly walk out to the platforms to gather my bearings.

Heading into the dimmed corridor, I contemplated the wall which displays the names of the 774 Jewish citizens who were deported from this station to Auschwitz-Birkenau. Highlighted are the twenty-seven names of those who survived deportation. There are also many posters on the wall which describe many of the victims.

On the far end of the tracks is a unique meditation chapel and there are enclosed spaces for visitors to watch videos of holocaust survivors’ stories, although, if your Italian is not up to par, you will not get much out of it as there are no subtitles.

While visiting Milan, you will likely pass through Central Station at some point of your stay. The museum is located a short walk around the eastern side of the museum’s entrance and doesn’t require a large amount of your time. Take an hour or so out of your day to be reminded not only of atrocities of mankind, but of the bravery and perseverance of those around us.

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Shoah Memorial

  • http://www.memorialeshoah.it/memoriale-milano/
  • Address: Ferrante Aporti Street, 3 – 20125 Milan
  • Hours: Monday, 0930-1900, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, 1000-1420. Guided tour without reservation, 1830.
  • Admission: Adults, 10€, Students, children up to 5 years and over 65 years, 5€, group leaders, disabled, disabled companions, 0€
  • Getting There: Metro, Centrale FS, Sondrio, Caiazzo. Train, Centrale FS.

Second Fiddle

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Poor Santa Maria della Grazie!

You’ve never heard of it? It is the basilica that plays second fiddle to Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece which resides in the adjacent refectory!

Most people do not trek across Milan in search of this church. They duck inside before or after the visits to the Last Supper or visit as a consolation when they cannot get tickets to lay their eyes on the famous painting.

I am here to tell you, however, even if you can’t secure tickets to the Last Supper, a visit to Santa Maria delle Grazie, next door, is a must. Years ago, when I was practically laughed out of the ticket office when I inquired about last minute tickets, I consoled myself with a visit to the basilica. Now considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was constructed under the orders of the Duke of Milan Francesco I Sforza and completed in 1469. While the basilica contains some amazing treasures, it is the notorious painting, housed in the refectory of the adjacent convent that attracts thousands of visitors each year. Though the Last Supper is the main attraction, it is not to say that the church itself should be overlooked.

Taking decades to complete, the church was originally designed to serve as the burial site of the Sforza family, however Ludovico Sforza’s wife, Beatrice was the only member buried in the church in 1497.

Since I arrived extremely early for my visit to the Last Supper, I decided to take another look around the basilica I had visited so many years ago. As I entered the structure, I vividly remembered its beauty and all that it has to explore, however, the chapels on each side of the church are the definitely the highlights. Upon completion of the church, the most powerful families who were granted patronage of the chapels to bury their loved ones, then decorated each chapel with the artistry of the period’s masters and each is magnificent and unique.

The Chapel Atellani’s prominence is an altar-piece of the Virgin Mary with Child, St. Vincent Marty and St. Vincent Ferrer by Cariolano Malagavazzo dating back to 1595. The frescoes from the 17th century were painted by the Fiamminghini brothers and detail the the miracles by St. Vincent Ferrer and his martyrdom.

The Chapel of St. John the Baptist displays an ornate candelabra, an ancient organ and an altar-piece of St. John the Baptist admonishing a devotee painted by Marco d’Oggiono. The frescoes on the walls and ceiling were painted by Ottavio Semini in the 16th century.

The Chapel of St. Joseph’s altarpiece was completed by Tiziano’s disciple, Paris Bordon and highlights the Holy Family with St. Catherine of Alexandria.

The Chapel of St. Peter Martyr contains frescoes by Giambattista Lucini of St. Ludovico Beltran and St. Paul. The altarpiece is entitled The Martyrdom of St. Peter of Verona.

The Chapel of Conti (forrmerly Simonetta) offers an entrance gate of bronze, dating back to 1669, which was formerly the railing of the high altar until 1935. The altarpiece is a marble monument of the Virgin Mary received into Heaven and Eve at her feet, sculpted by Arrigo Minerbi in 1941. On the sides of the chapel are centographs of Senator Ettore Conti and his wife, Gianna Casati, by Francesco Wildt. Conti was the illustrious benefactor who ensured that Santa Maria delle Grazie was restored and rebuilt after World War II’s bombings damaged the church.

The Chapel of St. Dominic’s magnificent altarpiece is of St. Dominic, holding the rosary, receiving the book and the stick of the evangelic preaching from the Apostles Peter and Paul, by Carlo Pontion. Its walls contain fragments of the glory of the Dominican Saints by Francesco Malcotto that were originally in the apse of the choir.

The Chapel of St. Pius V contains tombstones of Branda Castiglioni (1495), Luigi Arcimboldi (1496) and Cecilia Magenta (1585). There are fragments of frescoes by Montorfano and the altarpiece of Pope Pius V is by an unknown artist.

The Chapel of St. Catherine contains a bronze Crucifix on the altar designed by Ecce Homo, earthenware on the altar table, six bronze tablets with episodes of the life of St. Catherine of Siena, and a (now walled-up) reliquary where the mantle of the Sienese saint is preserved. There are paintings in the lunettes of St. Catherine of Alexandria and St. Catherine of Siena and an altarpiece of the Virgin Mary of Child and St. John the Baptist and St. Peter Martyr, by Nicolo of Cremona.

The Chapel Della Torre highlights a painting of the Virgin Mary adoring the infant Jesus with St. Ambrose, St. Lucy and the offerer’s family. If you glance upward, you will notice an example of the original decoration of the XV century.

The Chapel of Marliani (or The Angels Chapel) depicts an altar piece of St. Michael defeating Satan which dates back to 1560 and there are nine angelic choirs on the vault by an unknown painter.

The Chapel of St. Martin de Porres has four cenotaphs from the XVI century on the walls and an altar piece of St. Martin in Ecstasy by Silvio Consadori.

Chapel Sauli’s main focus is the Crucifixion by Giovanni demio of Schio. On the walls there are elegant angels created by earthenware covered in stucco, that carry the instruments of the Passion. If you look closely, there is evidence remaining of the bombardment from World War II.

Finally, St. Crown’s Chapel offers the Deposition from the Cross by Caravaggio dating back to 1616. Its original masterpiece, The Crowning of Thorns Coronation by Tiziano was stolen in 1797 but was recovered and now housed in the Louvre. The vaults and walls display frescoes with scenes from the Passion.

After making my rounds of the illustrious chapels, I made my way through the remainder of the church, admiring the decorated vaults and domes of the nave and the apse.

The two-level choir of the friars for the holy liturgy has thirty-three Carthusian-styled seats on the lower level and forty-two on the upper level decorated with figures of angels and saints in the Lombard style. The modern organ is lowered in the middle of the floor. The choirs of Italy’s churches are always a favorite of mine with their elaborate carvings and I am always able to imagine the beautiful sounds that must emanate from this area.

The outside of Santa Maria delle Grazie is also not to be missed! Make sure to not miss the family crests that decorate the outside of the church.

Though Santa Maria delle Grazie is consistently outshined by the Last Supper which is housed in its refectory, every visitor to Milan should make their way to its location and give it the respect it deserves!

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Santa Maria delle Grazie

  • https://legraziemilano.it/
  • Address: Via Giuseppe Antonio Sassi, 3 20123 Milan
  • Hours: 1000-1220 and 1500-1755, July opening hours 0900-1200 and 1600-1755
  • Mass times: Monday through Saturday, 0730, 0830, 1230* (*except July and August), 1830. Sunday, 0800, 0930, 1030, 1130, 1830, 2000* (*except August)
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Metro, Conciliazione or S. Ambrogio stops


Last Try for the Last Supper

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How many years have I been visiting Milan?

And how many years have I tried to get tickets to the Last Supper?

Too many!

Never spending more than twenty four hours each time in Milan, it was a difficult decision to spend money on something that might not happen. Weather might move in. Sickness might strike. A car accident could render me stranded on the roadside. And, I would not make it to Milan.

You get the picture.

So, each time I looked for tickets to see the Last Supper the day before or even the day of, there were none. Even testing my luck, I had gone to the office and inquired, thinking they might feel a bit of pity and suddenly find “one” ticket. Detecting a bit of laughter behind their comments, directing me to come back first thing the next morning, I always walked away defeated.

After a long night in flight, I was riding to my hotel and browsing the internet. Divine intervention must have inspired me and I suddenly felt the need to check for Last Supper Tickets. Imagine my astonishment to find a site that had one ticket left!

Quickly entering my information, I made the purchase and was so excited that I could hardly take my much needed nap!

My admission time was for later in the day, so I did get that much needed nap, even allowing enough time to visit the church next door, Santa Maria delle Grazie, afterward.

Sitting in the piazza, I watched the various tour groups meet their guides, anxiously awaiting the arrival of mine. Of course, I let my imagination get the best of me, thinking that I had stumbled upon a fake web site and no one would be here to greet me. Finally, walking around, I inquired with a couple of the other guides about my tour and started to meet the members of our group…yet still no guide.

Eventually, we were told by the gentleman, who was there to give our guide the audio-earpieces for us to wear, that our guide was running a bit late, but would be here with us for our admission time. Finally, we spotted him quickly walking down the street and we were soon verifying our tickets and receiving our earpieces. We entered the building, passing through security and took our place in the long hall, readying for our time to enter the airlocks which protect the Last Supper from the elements.

First door, last door…we were in.

And nothing prepared me.

Many years ago, I went to the Louvre and was excited to see the Mona Lisa. It was only when I arrived at its location, deep inside the museum, that I found that it is so much smaller than I anticipated.

This was the opposite!

I expected The Last Supper to be quite small, much like the Mona Lisa, and instead found that it took up the entire wall of the right side of the building. And not only that, The Crucifixion by Giovanni Donato da Montorfano takes up the opposite wall! Certainly, I never expected to see two masterpieces in the same room!

Our guide was very informative and explained each of the paintings to us, pointing out every small detail that we may have not noticed on our own.

The Last Supper was commissioned by Ludovico Sforza, the Duke of Milan, to be painted in the monastery of Santa Maria delle Grazie and was completed in 1498. A representation of the meal that Jesus shared with his apostles, it shows the different reactions that each portrayed when Jesus shared the news that one of them would betray him. It is topped by the Sforza coats of arms painted in the lunettes that are formed by the triple arched ceiling of the refectory. What I found most interesting was that Leonardo da Vinci wandered the streets looking for likenesses to base the figures of the painting on. When the monastery’s prior complained about da Vinci’s laziness about finding someone upon which to base Judas, da Vince responded that the prior would make a great model!

On the opposite end of the building is the Crucifixion, which depicts the crucifixion of Jesus Christ outside of Jerusalem. At the foot of the cross bearing Jesus, is Mary Magdalene, Saint Dominic, founder of the Dominicans, Saint Thomas of Aquinas as well as other saints and leaders from the Dominican order. Figures of the Sforza family are incorporated into the painting.

During World War II, bombings threatened the existence of the church, monastery and the paintings. As Allied Leaders bombed many major European cities, the walls of the refectory were reinforced with sandbags and scaffolding to help protect the two paintings within.

When a high-explosive bomb landed eighty feet away on August 15, 1943, it was thought that all was lost. The building’s roof had caved in, the cloister had collapsed and one whole wall was blown out.

Miraculously, the paintings had survived.

The Last Supper and the Crucifixion have endured for many years since, yet both now are in an extremely fragile state and acute measures have been extended to their care. Both paintings now reside in a climate controlled atmosphere and much work has taken place to restore some of the former glory to the paintings. Only limited viewings are available (twenty-five people every fifteen minutes) each day and a state of the art infiltration system was recently installed. Despite all of these efforts, however, they may not be around for younger generations to appreciate in the coming years.

Some things last a long time, however, nothing lasts forever, so if you can get to Milan sooner than later and get tickets for Leonardo’s masterpiece…run don’t walk! It is one of the most enlightening experiences in all of Italy!

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The Last Supper

Art and Faith

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Who needs a museum when you have a church?

Most churches can be construed as museums. Filled with religious works of art and exhibiting stunning architectural features, you can enter, in most cases, without paying an exorbitant fee and spend as much time as you wish, not only viewing the treasures, but spending a bit of time in solitude and contemplation.

The Church of St. Fedele is not only much like I described, but it is the only church in Milan that really does have a real art museum within its walls.

After visiting La Scala Theater, I noticed that St. Fedele Church was just around the corner. It was starting to sprinkle and if I was lucky, it would take up a bit of the time I needed to kill before dinner. Pointing myself in that direction, I covered the short distance quickly and stepped into the large square, admiring the statue of Alessandro Manzoni, the Italian poet and novelist.

The Jesuit church, which dates back to 1579 and is dedicated to St. Fidelis of Como, took the title of Santa Maria alla Scala in San Fedele when Santa Maria alla Scala was demolished in 1776 to make way for the Teatro alla Scala. Much of the destroyed church’s ornamentation from that church was brought to San Fedele.

The elegant facade which stands out in the St. Fedele Square today, was completed in 1835, however, many years later, during World War II, the church was severely damaged during a bombing raid. Though since repaired, the exterior should be examined thoroughly as it features a group of statues representing the Assumption, designed by Italian sculptor, Gaetano Matteo Monti.

The interior is a single nave church with tall columns, but adorned less ornately than others I have seen throughout Italy. There are, however, some notable pieces, including a Pietà by Simone Peterzano, a St. Ignatius by Giovanni Battista Crespi (il Cerano) a Transfiguration by Bernardino Campi, and a “Sacred Heart” by Lucio Fontana.

As I made my way around the church, I decided that it might be a short visit after all. Admiring the altar and the sanctuary, I was approached by a gentleman who asked if I would like to see the other parts of the church. He explained that St. Fedele is unlike any other in the city as it incorporates an art museum within its walls. Intrigued, I paid him the three euro entrance fee and was admitted to the sacristy.

As I made my way through the rooms of contemplation…the sacristy, the crypt, the sacellum, and the chapel of the dancers…I noticed the ancient reliquaries, liturgical objects and paintings that are usually found in religious spaces. There were also, however, works of art by Christo, Warhol, Arman, Rotella, Schifano and Radice, all collected by artist, designer and architect Nanda Vigo throughout his life. Overall, an experience that showed how important art and culture were to the Jesuits.

Sacristy
Art pieces mixed with religious icons at entrance to sacristy
Chapel of the Dancers
Art installation

What I enjoyed most, however, was what lies beneath the church. In the crypt, there are the remains of St. Fidelis, however, in a small airtight room on the right, there are the Relics of the 365-day Calendar. The little shrines are organized in daily order from Jauary 1 until December 31 and contain the relics of all the saints of the Catholic calendar that have been canonized until the beginning of the 19th century.

Making my way up to the church’s main level, glancing at my watch, I realized how much time had passed since I had made my way here. There was a great deal to see and experience, unlike my first impression.

Ancient artists have demonstrated over the centuries that there is a direct link between art and faith…just look at the treasures that adorn most churches. St. Fedele brings it to a new level and a new century with modern art.

Just remember, when Michaelangelo’s Pieta was placed in St. Peter’s Basilica, and he was alive, it was modern art!

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 The Church of San Fedele

  • Address: San Fedele Street, 4, 20121, Milan  
  • Hours: Monday and Tuesday, 0730-1630. Wednesay through Friday, 0730-1800. Saturday, 1000-1930. Sunday, 1000-2000.
  • Admission: Free to visit the church. San Fidele art exhibition in the sacristy and rooms of contemplation, €3
  • Getting There: Metro, Lines M1 and M3, Duomo stop or Tram, Line 1, The closest station: Duomo (Metro Lines M1 and M3), Teatro alla Scala stop.

The Grand Old Opera

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Recently, I mentioned the word aria to my son.

He thought I was talking about the hotel in Vegas…sigh.

Many of the younger generation do not have much of an interest in opera. In fact, looking for activities in Nashville, I overheard a teen, who thought the Grand Ole Opry was an opera theater, expressly state to her parents that she would not be involved in that outing. A few years ago, it was with a determined effort that I dragged my thirteen year old to the Opera Theater in Madrid. When he ventured inside, however, he realized that he didn’t have to listen to songs in a language that he was not familiar with and yet, he became fascinated with the elaborate decor and the workings of the stage. Truly, there is something for everyone, not just the performances themselves.

For years, I have visited opera houses in cities throughout the world, yet with all of my visits to Milan, I have never taken the time to seek out a performance at the most famous opera house in the world…Teatro alla Scala.

As a former architecture and interior design student, there is nothing more fulfilling than seeing these gilded, golden-tasseled, velvet covered theaters that have hosted some of the world’s outstanding vocal talents.

After finally considering the idea of booking a performance for the evening at La Scala and discovering that I probably had not brought the proper attire, I discovered that jeans and a sweater would get me into their museum and if I timed it perfectly, I might even get a peek at the stage from one of the boxes.

Making my way to the theater, I was surprised to find a line snaking its way into the small square to the left of the famed building. Keeping an eye on the time, I knew there was a small window when rehearsals ended and the theater would be open for viewing. Finally, with tickets in hand, I was ushered inside and up the stairs to the large, columned, church-like foyer, where crowds gather before and during intermissions. It is not surprising that this space has the feel of a church…La Scala, dating back to the 1700’s, was built on the location of the church of Santa Maria alla Scala, after which it was named. Much like the treasures that can be found in a holy temple, there were beautiful chandeliers, busts of famous composers (Pucini and Toscanini) and a model of La Scala.

The doors to the theater were finally opened and I was given a number to a box that was available. Though I wish I would have had the box to myself, it was awe-inspiring to stand in this small space, looking out over the elaborate theater with its tiers of balconies and Murano chandelier and imagine witnessing one of the timeless operas being performed on the stage, in front of crowds of over two thousand.

After many minutes of drinking in this spectacle and realizing that others were trying to make their way in, I reluctantly vacated my spot along the balcony and headed back thru the foyer.

The museum, though only eight rooms, is brimming with paintings, busts, statuettes and many objects used during past performances and contain great historical value.

Though I am sure a guide would have pointed out the most relevant of the contents, there were interactive screens which described the rooms’ pieces and each of the rooms, I discovered, is dedicated to a different era in the theater’s history.

Beautiful portraits bedecked the walls in the room dedicated to the legendary sopranos of La Scala who drew crowds of admirers and another room was dedicated to Giuseppe Verdi, the composer who was very influential to the art and who passed away next door at the Grand Hotel et de Milan. Of course, no opera museum would be complete without paying reverence to the greatest soprano of the mid-20th century, Maria Callas. The gallery boasts a beautiful portrait of her, sitting on a chair next to a portrait of her arch-rival, Renata Tebaldi!

I’m sure my sons have no inkling of who Maria Callas is, but I have to admit that I learned a lot more about opera during my visit to La Scala, sparking a yearning to finally see a performance during my lifetime!

I also learned that next time I need to pack something nicer than a sweater and jeans!  

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Museo Teatrale alla Scala

  • http://www.museoscala.org/en/
  • Address: Largo Ghiringhelli 1, Piazza Scala, 20121, Milano
  • Hours: 0900-1730, daily (last admission, 1700). Closed on December 7, 24, 25, January 1, Easter, May 1, August 15.
  • Admission: Adults, €9, Students over 12 years, €6, Ages over 65, €6, Children under 12, free. Open ticket €12, good for admission on the day of your choice (until Dec 31, 2020), with fast track.