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Who needs a museum when you have a church?
Most churches can be construed as museums. Filled with religious works of art and exhibiting stunning architectural features, you can enter, in most cases, without paying an exorbitant fee and spend as much time as you wish, not only viewing the treasures, but spending a bit of time in solitude and contemplation.
The Church of St. Fedele is not only much like I described, but it is the only church in Milan that really does have a real art museum within its walls.
After visiting La Scala Theater, I noticed that St. Fedele Church was just around the corner. It was starting to sprinkle and if I was lucky, it would take up a bit of the time I needed to kill before dinner. Pointing myself in that direction, I covered the short distance quickly and stepped into the large square, admiring the statue of Alessandro Manzoni, the Italian poet and novelist.
The Jesuit church, which dates back to 1579 and is dedicated to St. Fidelis of Como, took the title of Santa Maria alla Scala in San Fedele when Santa Maria alla Scala was demolished in 1776 to make way for the Teatro alla Scala. Much of the destroyed church’s ornamentation from that church was brought to San Fedele.
The elegant facade which stands out in the St. Fedele Square today, was completed in 1835, however, many years later, during World War II, the church was severely damaged during a bombing raid. Though since repaired, the exterior should be examined thoroughly as it features a group of statues representing the Assumption, designed by Italian sculptor, Gaetano Matteo Monti.
The interior is a single nave church with tall columns, but adorned less ornately than others I have seen throughout Italy. There are, however, some notable pieces, including a Pietà by Simone Peterzano, a St. Ignatius by Giovanni Battista Crespi (il Cerano) a Transfiguration by Bernardino Campi, and a “Sacred Heart” by Lucio Fontana.
As I made my way around the church, I decided that it might be a short visit after all. Admiring the altar and the sanctuary, I was approached by a gentleman who asked if I would like to see the other parts of the church. He explained that St. Fedele is unlike any other in the city as it incorporates an art museum within its walls. Intrigued, I paid him the three euro entrance fee and was admitted to the sacristy.
As I made my way through the rooms of contemplation…the sacristy, the crypt, the sacellum, and the chapel of the dancers…I noticed the ancient reliquaries, liturgical objects and paintings that are usually found in religious spaces. There were also, however, works of art by Christo, Warhol, Arman, Rotella, Schifano and Radice, all collected by artist, designer and architect Nanda Vigo throughout his life. Overall, an experience that showed how important art and culture were to the Jesuits.
What I enjoyed most, however, was what lies beneath the church. In the crypt, there are the remains of St. Fidelis, however, in a small airtight room on the right, there are the Relics of the 365-day Calendar. The little shrines are organized in daily order from Jauary 1 until December 31 and contain the relics of all the saints of the Catholic calendar that have been canonized until the beginning of the 19th century.
Making my way up to the church’s main level, glancing at my watch, I realized how much time had passed since I had made my way here. There was a great deal to see and experience, unlike my first impression.
Ancient artists have demonstrated over the centuries that there is a direct link between art and faith…just look at the treasures that adorn most churches. St. Fedele brings it to a new level and a new century with modern art.
Just remember, when Michaelangelo’s Pieta was placed in St. Peter’s Basilica, and he was alive, it was modern art!
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The Church of San Fedele
- Address: San Fedele Street, 4, 20121, Milan
- Hours: Monday and Tuesday, 0730-1630. Wednesay through Friday, 0730-1800. Saturday, 1000-1930. Sunday, 1000-2000.
- Admission: Free to visit the church. San Fidele art exhibition in the sacristy and rooms of contemplation, €3
- Getting There: Metro, Lines M1 and M3, Duomo stop or Tram, Line 1, The closest station: Duomo (Metro Lines M1 and M3), Teatro alla Scala stop.