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Recently, I mentioned the word aria to my son.
He thought I was talking about the hotel in Vegas…sigh.
Many of the younger generation do not have much of an interest in opera. In fact, looking for activities in Nashville, I overheard a teen, who thought the Grand Ole Opry was an opera theater, expressly state to her parents that she would not be involved in that outing. A few years ago, it was with a determined effort that I dragged my thirteen year old to the Opera Theater in Madrid. When he ventured inside, however, he realized that he didn’t have to listen to songs in a language that he was not familiar with and yet, he became fascinated with the elaborate decor and the workings of the stage. Truly, there is something for everyone, not just the performances themselves.
For years, I have visited opera houses in cities throughout the world, yet with all of my visits to Milan, I have never taken the time to seek out a performance at the most famous opera house in the world…Teatro alla Scala.
As a former architecture and interior design student, there is nothing more fulfilling than seeing these gilded, golden-tasseled, velvet covered theaters that have hosted some of the world’s outstanding vocal talents.
After finally considering the idea of booking a performance for the evening at La Scala and discovering that I probably had not brought the proper attire, I discovered that jeans and a sweater would get me into their museum and if I timed it perfectly, I might even get a peek at the stage from one of the boxes.
Making my way to the theater, I was surprised to find a line snaking its way into the small square to the left of the famed building. Keeping an eye on the time, I knew there was a small window when rehearsals ended and the theater would be open for viewing. Finally, with tickets in hand, I was ushered inside and up the stairs to the large, columned, church-like foyer, where crowds gather before and during intermissions. It is not surprising that this space has the feel of a church…La Scala, dating back to the 1700’s, was built on the location of the church of Santa Maria alla Scala, after which it was named. Much like the treasures that can be found in a holy temple, there were beautiful chandeliers, busts of famous composers (Pucini and Toscanini) and a model of La Scala.
The doors to the theater were finally opened and I was given a number to a box that was available. Though I wish I would have had the box to myself, it was awe-inspiring to stand in this small space, looking out over the elaborate theater with its tiers of balconies and Murano chandelier and imagine witnessing one of the timeless operas being performed on the stage, in front of crowds of over two thousand.
After many minutes of drinking in this spectacle and realizing that others were trying to make their way in, I reluctantly vacated my spot along the balcony and headed back thru the foyer.
The museum, though only eight rooms, is brimming with paintings, busts, statuettes and many objects used during past performances and contain great historical value.
Though I am sure a guide would have pointed out the most relevant of the contents, there were interactive screens which described the rooms’ pieces and each of the rooms, I discovered, is dedicated to a different era in the theater’s history.
Beautiful portraits bedecked the walls in the room dedicated to the legendary sopranos of La Scala who drew crowds of admirers and another room was dedicated to Giuseppe Verdi, the composer who was very influential to the art and who passed away next door at the Grand Hotel et de Milan. Of course, no opera museum would be complete without paying reverence to the greatest soprano of the mid-20th century, Maria Callas. The gallery boasts a beautiful portrait of her, sitting on a chair next to a portrait of her arch-rival, Renata Tebaldi!
I’m sure my sons have no inkling of who Maria Callas is, but I have to admit that I learned a lot more about opera during my visit to La Scala, sparking a yearning to finally see a performance during my lifetime!
I also learned that next time I need to pack something nicer than a sweater and jeans!
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Museo Teatrale alla Scala
- http://www.museoscala.org/en/
- Address: Largo Ghiringhelli 1, Piazza Scala, 20121, Milano
- Hours: 0900-1730, daily (last admission, 1700). Closed on December 7, 24, 25, January 1, Easter, May 1, August 15.
- Admission: Adults, €9, Students over 12 years, €6, Ages over 65, €6, Children under 12, free. Open ticket €12, good for admission on the day of your choice (until Dec 31, 2020), with fast track.