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Another church?
Not having planned another stop during my afternoon in the eastern part of Milan, I was headed to an early dinner. Coming up out of the metro stop of San Babila, I looked up and wouldn’t you know…there was a church…the Basilica of San Babila.
Did I have time to pop in? Of course I did! I always make time for churches, especially in Italy!
Built at the crossroads that lay at the point where the Porta Orientale (or Eastern Gateway) once stood, San Babila was once considered the third most important basilica after the Duomo and the Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio. Dedicated to Babylas of Antioch, his relics, along with those of Romanus of Caesarea were brought from Antioch to Milan by Marolus, the bishop of Milan in the beginning of the 5th century.
The church of San Babila was built on its current site in 1095, to house these relics, and extended with additional construction at the front and a new baroque facade. Though much of its original style has been lost during renovations, the church still retains its original medieval feel. During the 19th century, the complex was renovated with the aim of restoring the appearance of the medieval basilica and in the early 20th century the Neo-Romanesque facade by Paolo Cesa-Bianchi was built. The bell tower was eventually added in 1920 to replace the original tower which had fallen in the 16th century.
With the many grand churches throughout Italy, it was quite surprising when I entered, that San Babila was a very simple, mostly unadorned church. The interior has a nave and two aisles with two side chapels that date from the late Renaissance. Pay particular to the right aisle as it has an image of the Madonna, highly esteemed by the Milanese community. Also particular to note are some lovely medieval frescoes, Renaissance windows and beautiful mosaics.
If traveling in this area of Milan and happen to enter or exit at the San Babila metro, take a moment to stop in and relish the quiet beauty.
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Chiesa di San Babila (The Church of San Babila)
- http://www.santiprofeti.it/basilica-di-san-babila/
- Address: Corso Monforte, 1, 20122 Milano MI, Italy
- Hours: Saturday, 0830-1830, Sunday, 0930-1830, Monday thru Friday, 0800-1830 (not verified)
- Admission: free
- Getting There: Take the metro to the San Babila metro stop. The church is immediately adjacent to the stop.
Established in the 5th century, the basilica was formerly dedicated to both Saints Zechariah and Stephen, though eventually given over to the latter. The original building was constructed around the year 417, destroyed by fire in 1070 and rebuilt in the Romanesque style in 1075. Since 1594, many reconstructions, expansions and restoration have been completed including enlargement of the apse and the main altar, lengthening of the nave and reconstruction of the facade, reconstruction of the bell tower by architect Gerolamo Quadrio and the construction of the sacristy and the modernization of some chapels.
St. Stefano is most famous for the many saints interred within its walls, most notably, San Carlo Borromeo and for two major events that occurred in the church. The Duke of Milan Galeazzo Maria Sforza was assassinated by four conspirators in 1476, under the medieval portico outside the church, as he visited the basilica for the celebration of the patron saint. The remaining pillar of the portico can be viewed in front of the belltower. Also, after years of speculation, the baptismal certificate from 1571, of the painter Michelangelo Merisi, better known as “Caravaggio”, was discovered in 2007 in the archival documents of the basilica, giving a definitive answer to the age-old question of his baptismal and birth place.
Though the basilica is very little known to tourists, it is easily accessible from the Piazza Fontana and quite impressive for its size and historical significance. Though the church is in desperate need of renovations, there are many items worth noting on its interior. Many of the side chapels contain beautiful and original stained glass and paintings and the altar is quite grand with its gold tabernacle. Also, be sure to note the imposing organ, the unique statues and the beautiful vaulted ceiling. Of particular interest is the life-sized bronze statue of Jesus on the cross, flanked by his mother and disciples, at the rear of the structure.
Watching the movie, it was quite thrilling to see the Map Room, which was used continually by the officers of the Royal Navy, British Army and Royal Air Force who produced a daily intelligence summary for the King, Prime Minister and the military Chiefs of Staff. The other room I recognized was the Cabinet Room, from which Churchill visited in 1940 and famously declared, “This is the room from which I will direct the war.” And that he did. 115 Cabinet meetings, in all, were held in the Cabinet War Rooms.
Having seen the magnificent Westminster Abbey, in all of its glory the day before, this cathedral could have been sort of a letdown. However, you can’t compare apples to oranges. Southwark has an amazing history and some unique things to see as well.
Making your way toward the altar on the cathedral’s north aisle, you will encounter the tomb of medieval English poet, John Gower. A friend of Geoffrey Chaucer, he lived in the cathedral’s priory from the 1370’s until his death at the age of 78. His body is interred with his head resting on one of his most famous works, Speculum Meditantis, Vox Clamantis and Confessio Amantis. The latter’s first editions were dedicated to Richard II.
On the north aisle of the cathedral is the North Transept and many monuments are located in this area, most notably the monument to Lionel Lockyer, a physician whose pills were said to heal all ailments and another to lawyer and poet, William Austin. Austin’s monument, created by Nicholas Stone, a famous 17th century sculptor, is hard to miss for its size.
Take a peek into the Harvard Chapel and inspect the John Harvard Memorial window before continuing on toward the Lady Chapel. Along the way, take in the Humble Monument, which pays homage to Alderman Richard Humble, a member of the church vestry, and his two wives, Elizabeth and Isabel. Equally impressive is the Medieval Effigy of a Knight, an incredible carving of a knight, possible a crusader, dating from 1280.
Between the north and south aisles, behind the altar is one of the greatest treasures of the cathedral, the High Altar Screen. Erected in 1520 by Bishop Fox of Winchester, the screen displays three lines of statues depicting St. Olaf (King Olaf II of Norway) who converted to Christianity and is know for pulling down the London Bridge to protect the city from an assault from the Danes. Also featured are the figures of poet John Gower, King Henry I, Thomas Becket, St. Peter, St. Paul, Cardinal Beaufort, Bishop Fox and many others. There are also carvings of the Lamb of God, a pelican (badge of Bishop Fox), a row of angels and hunting scenes.
Be sure to inspect the tomb of Bishop Lancelot Andrewes located on the south aisle. A high ranking bishop, during the reigns of Queen Elizabeth I and James I of England, Andrewes was a key translator of the King James version of the Bible and assisted at King James’s coronation. During the latter part of his life, he became Dean of Winchester remaining in the position until his death at the age of 71 in 1626.
The last major attraction in the church is the Memorial Window of Shakespeare with a remarkable alabaster statue, created in 1912 by Henry McCarthy, of the great writer in repose, quill in hand. Shakespeare was a parishioner who worshiped at the cathedral when he lived near the Globe Theater. William’s brother Edmund was buried on the church grounds in 1607, however, the exact location of his tomb is unknown.
Before leaving the church, make sure to take a quick walk around the grounds of the church. While taking a look at the stunning Gothic architecture, also look for shrapnel damage which is still visible from the bombs dropped in the area between October 1940 to June 1941. Also, take a look at the archaeological remains located in the far side of the entry hall.
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The first thing I noticed about Rotterdam is while there are new buildings and skyscrapers, there are also still some older buildings scattered throughout the city, sometimes sandwiched between newer construction. I thought that this gave an interesting quality to the city…a sort of ying-yang. The second thing I noticed was that sculpture is EVERYWHERE! Following the canal that led away from the train station, I began to see interesting pieces of artwork lining the banks. Each piece was identified by a metal plaque on the walkway advising observers of the name of the artwork, the artist’s name and location and year constructed. Making for a nice leisurely walk, I stopped at each of the sculptures as I made my way south on Westersingel to Eendrachtsplein, where I found the current location of the controversial sculpture by Paul McCarthy, Santa Claus. A shocking statue, it depicts the beloved Santa not holding a Christmas tree but a sex toy. While some people have defended it proclaiming that it reflects the fetishization of Christmas and the prevalent sexuality in consumer society, others declared it vulgar and offensive.
Further on, I gazed upward at the Euromast, the observation tower constructed between 1958 and 1960 and designed by Hugh Maaskant. Though I would have like to visit the observation platform to see the city from the tallest building in Rotterdam, time was limited and I was headed to the oldest part of the city, Delfshaven.
The Pilgrim Father’s Church, dating back to 1417, when the Roman Catholic Church of St. Anthony was consecrated on the site, later fell into Protestant hands in 1574. When a group of English dissenters fled to the Netherlands in 1608, they later decided to make the journey to America so that they might worship in their own way. On July 21, 1620, they knelt in prayer on the quay near the church before boarding the ship, the Speedwell.
The Erasmus Bridge (Erasmusbrug) was completed in 1996 and is the largest and heaviest bascule bridge in Western Europe, connecting the north and south parts of the city. Named after Desiderius Erasmus (Erasmus of Rotterdam), a prominent Christian renaissance humanist, the cable-stayed bridge section with its single asymmetrical pale blue pylon with a prominent horizontal base has earned the bridge the nickname, The Swan.
Finally, heading back toward the train station, I made three quick detours to see some fantastic landmarks, Kijk Kubus (Cube Houses), innovative housing designed by Piet Blom, Grote of St. Laurenskerk (Church of St. Lawrence), the only remnant of the medieval city of Rotterdam, and Stadhuis Rotterdam (City Hall), the Beaux Art style building (with Byzantine, Roman and Art Deco influences) that was one of the few buildings to survive the bombardment of World War II.
After five hours of intense sightseeing and walking throughout the old-yet-new city of Rotterdam, my feet were aching, yet satisfied. I had seen all that the city had to offer and was confident that future travels would be easier, allowing me to explore the city in depth.
It was time head back to Amsterdam and this time, I caught the Intercity Direct! Definitely the way to go! Heck, I didn’t really even have time to catch a nap!
Cisterns: These extremely large cisterns were used for the transport of water during the times of the Spanish Colony and also used as bomb shelters during World War II.
Flags: Check out the flags blowing in the breeze, the United States flag, the Puerto Rican flag and the Cross of Burgundy flag. The latter is a white flag with a red X and was t he Spanish military flag used from the 16th to 18th centuries to identify warships, forts and regiments of troops loyal to the king of Spain.
With so much to enjoy here, take your time to see all parts of San Cristobal. In addition to the photo opportunities it provides within its walls, its city and coastal views are incredible! I could see both the Carnival Sunshine and Royal Caribbean’s ships docked as well as other beautiful buildings throughout the city. Make sure to stand along the water side and take in the panoramic views of the coast from Old San Juan to Condado and beyond…truly spectacular!
After leaving San Cristóbal, it is approximately a one mile picturesque walk to Castillo San Felipe del Morro along Calle Norzagaray. Since I wanted to stroll through the center of town, doing some shopping along the way, I used Calle Fortaleza then, Calle Clara Lair to the Old City Gate. Walking along the outer walls on the Paseo de Morro, I walked along the water, looking out to El Canuelo, another smaller fortification on Goat Island, and made my way through the grounds of Castillo San Felipe del Morro to the front entrance.
My favorite part, however, is the restored lighthouse. Sitting 180 feet above sea level, the lighthouse was completed in 1908. On the upper levels you can also see the same three flags flown on San Cristóbal…the U.S. flag, the Puerto Rican flag and the Cross of Burgundy flag.
Looking out at the massive grounds, the property spreads out along 70 acres, including the killing grounds and the esplanade. Nearby, you can see the nearby Cemetery of Santa Maria Magdalena de Pazzi.
As I made my way through the gate, I made a stop to inspect the sentry box on the coastal side of the wall. Following Paseo del Morro’s flawlessly paved path, I marveled at the waves sometimes pounding the shore on one side and the ancient wall on the other, repeatedly marked with garitas. At the end of my one and a half mile trek, I suddenly realized that the path ended. Many people will tell you that you should retrace your steps back to the San Juan Gate, however, along with a German family, I found an entrance to the grounds of El Morro fort, a remarkable structure that was next on my list.
In the 17th century, the 135-step staircase was designed by little-known architect and sculptor, Francesco de Sanctis. The steps, built during a two year span, from 1723 to 1725, were intended to connect the newly built Trinita dei Monti church, owned by the French, and the Piazza di Spagna, home of the Spanish Embassy, signifying the newly-established peace between France and Spain.
After leaving the church, I was determined to head toward the recently refurbished Fontana di Trevi (Trevi Fountain), but there was a brief detour that I was determined to make.
Making my way down Via Gregoriana, I finally headed to the Trevi Fountain to see it once again devoid of the scaffolding that had marred its beautiful veneer the last time I had walked past.
Like the Spanish Steps, the well-known Trevi Fountain has become a place where tourists and locals meet and hang out, grabbing a nearby gelato while admiring the roaring water cascading from the monument.
And, while you are at it, make sure to throw a coin from your right hand over your left shoulder and make a wish! It will ensure that you will return to Rome one day!
