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Old churches in London…there are many!
Though my initial plan was to visit St. Paul’s, discovering that photos were not allowed there, as they were not in Westminster Abbey, altered my decision. One church with no photos per visit is plenty! So…since I was planning to have something to eat at the Borough Market and Southwark Cathedral is next door, I decided to pop in and check it out.
The location of Christian worship for more than 1,000 years, Southwark was originally an Augustinian priory and then a parish church by the name of St. Saviour’s. The Gothic structure was built between 1220 and 1420 with the addition of the nave during the 19th century.
Having seen the magnificent Westminster Abbey, in all of its glory the day before, this cathedral could have been sort of a letdown. However, you can’t compare apples to oranges. Southwark has an amazing history and some unique things to see as well.
When you walk into the cathedral, one of the first things you will notice on the rear wall, near the baptismal font, are the Medieval Roof Bosses. When the roof collapsed in 1469, these bosses were part of the newly built wooden vaulted roof. Originally 150 in all, some of these quirky, yet ornate, pieces still sport the remains of the bright paints used to decorate them. Also, near the baptismal font, pay attention to the original thirteenth century medieval arcading on the walls.
Making your way toward the altar on the cathedral’s north aisle, you will encounter the tomb of medieval English poet, John Gower. A friend of Geoffrey Chaucer, he lived in the cathedral’s priory from the 1370’s until his death at the age of 78. His body is interred with his head resting on one of his most famous works, Speculum Meditantis, Vox Clamantis and Confessio Amantis. The latter’s first editions were dedicated to Richard II.
Make sure to gaze upward at the beautiful stained glass windows, especially, Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee Window in the south wall of the retrochoir, the story of Creation, a set of three lancets at the west end of the nave and the Shakespeare Memorial window in the south aisle of the choir.
On the north aisle of the cathedral is the North Transept and many monuments are located in this area, most notably the monument to Lionel Lockyer, a physician whose pills were said to heal all ailments and another to lawyer and poet, William Austin. Austin’s monument, created by Nicholas Stone, a famous 17th century sculptor, is hard to miss for its size.
Take a peek into the Harvard Chapel and inspect the John Harvard Memorial window before continuing on toward the Lady Chapel. Along the way, take in the Humble Monument, which pays homage to Alderman Richard Humble, a member of the church vestry, and his two wives, Elizabeth and Isabel. Equally impressive is the Medieval Effigy of a Knight, an incredible carving of a knight, possible a crusader, dating from 1280.
Between the north and south aisles, behind the altar is one of the greatest treasures of the cathedral, the High Altar Screen. Erected in 1520 by Bishop Fox of Winchester, the screen displays three lines of statues depicting St. Olaf (King Olaf II of Norway) who converted to Christianity and is know for pulling down the London Bridge to protect the city from an assault from the Danes. Also featured are the figures of poet John Gower, King Henry I, Thomas Becket, St. Peter, St. Paul, Cardinal Beaufort, Bishop Fox and many others. There are also carvings of the Lamb of God, a pelican (badge of Bishop Fox), a row of angels and hunting scenes.
Be sure to inspect the tomb of Bishop Lancelot Andrewes located on the south aisle. A high ranking bishop, during the reigns of Queen Elizabeth I and James I of England, Andrewes was a key translator of the King James version of the Bible and assisted at King James’s coronation. During the latter part of his life, he became Dean of Winchester remaining in the position until his death at the age of 71 in 1626.
As you continue down the south aisle, you will notice the beautiful organ, built 1897 by T.C. Lewis. The instrument is located in the angle where the south transept joins the south quire aisle and has remained mostly unaltered since its construction. It is still used throughout the week, with four sung services. Though I was not privileged to hear the organ played during my visit, I was lucky enough to be graced by the sounds of a pianist and vocalist who were giving a weekly concert in the church.
The last major attraction in the church is the Memorial Window of Shakespeare with a remarkable alabaster statue, created in 1912 by Henry McCarthy, of the great writer in repose, quill in hand. Shakespeare was a parishioner who worshiped at the cathedral when he lived near the Globe Theater. William’s brother Edmund was buried on the church grounds in 1607, however, the exact location of his tomb is unknown.
Before leaving the church, make sure to take a quick walk around the grounds of the church. While taking a look at the stunning Gothic architecture, also look for shrapnel damage which is still visible from the bombs dropped in the area between October 1940 to June 1941. Also, take a look at the archaeological remains located in the far side of the entry hall.
Southwark Cathedral is probably overlooked and definitely overshadowed by churches that are more well known in London. However, if you have a love of Gothic architecture and Shakespeare, it is a must!
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Southwark Cathedral
- https://cathedral.southwark.anglican.org/
- Address: London Bridge, London SE1 9DA, UK
- Hours: Sunday, 1230-1500 and 1600-1800, Monday thru Friday, 0900-1700, Saturday, 0930-1545 and 1700-1800
- Admission: Free. Photography permit, £1.00, includes a souvenir map highlighting important memorials, stained glass windows and history of the Cathedral. Drop-in tours led by Cathedral guides take place on Wednesdays at 1400, Fridays at 1100 and Sundays at 1300, dependent on services and events. Tours last 45 minutes and cost is £4.50 per person, free for children under 16.
- Getting There: Tube stop, London Bridge (5 minutes walk), Cannon Street Station (10 minutes walk), Blackfriar’s Station (15 minute walk).