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When seeking out San Bernardino alla Ossa in Milan, many people make the simple mistake of entering the Basilica di Santo Stefano Maggiore.
Though maybe not the intended destination, duck in for a moment and take a quick look around.
St. Stefano, is also referred to as St. Stephen in Brolo, the historical name of the area or St. Stephen’s Gate, for the port that once existed in this location. As you approach the two churches, St. Stefano stands out with its bell tower and extravagantly carved facade. Much more in its interior, however, should lure those who appreciate an impressive basilica and the history behind it.
Established in the 5th century, the basilica was formerly dedicated to both Saints Zechariah and Stephen, though eventually given over to the latter. The original building was constructed around the year 417, destroyed by fire in 1070 and rebuilt in the Romanesque style in 1075. Since 1594, many reconstructions, expansions and restoration have been completed including enlargement of the apse and the main altar, lengthening of the nave and reconstruction of the facade, reconstruction of the bell tower by architect Gerolamo Quadrio and the construction of the sacristy and the modernization of some chapels.
St. Stefano is most famous for the many saints interred within its walls, most notably, San Carlo Borromeo and for two major events that occurred in the church. The Duke of Milan Galeazzo Maria Sforza was assassinated by four conspirators in 1476, under the medieval portico outside the church, as he visited the basilica for the celebration of the patron saint. The remaining pillar of the portico can be viewed in front of the belltower. Also, after years of speculation, the baptismal certificate from 1571, of the painter Michelangelo Merisi, better known as “Caravaggio”, was discovered in 2007 in the archival documents of the basilica, giving a definitive answer to the age-old question of his baptismal and birth place.
Though the basilica is very little known to tourists, it is easily accessible from the Piazza Fontana and quite impressive for its size and historical significance. Though the church is in desperate need of renovations, there are many items worth noting on its interior. Many of the side chapels contain beautiful and original stained glass and paintings and the altar is quite grand with its gold tabernacle. Also, be sure to note the imposing organ, the unique statues and the beautiful vaulted ceiling. Of particular interest is the life-sized bronze statue of Jesus on the cross, flanked by his mother and disciples, at the rear of the structure.
If the churches of Milan peak your interest, make the short walk from the Duomo area and investigate the neighboring churches of St. Stefano and San Bernardino alla Ossa. Two different churches, connected by location and history…a sort of “two for the price of one”, kind of deal!
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Basilica di Santo Stefano Maggiore
- Address: Piazza Santo Stefano 10, Milan, Italy
- Hours: Daily, 0900-1700
- Admission: free
- Getting There: Metro, Duomo stop. Proceed along the cathedral’s southern side to the end of the square and into Piazza Fontana. Cross the piazza diagonally, across Via Verziere.