travel – Page 15 – Snapping The Globe

Dreaming of Havana

Selecting a place to stay in any city can be stressful.

You want to be in a venue that is convenient and clean, yet for a solo female, safe.

The United States’ relationship with Cuba also presents a problem. Americans are not allowed to subsidize any kind of government property or business and many of the hotels are government owned. Two of the visa categories that allowed for American travel to Cuba were “People to People” and “Support the People”. These allowed for Americans to stay in small privately owned Airbnb properties, more commonly known as casa particulars, which allowed interaction with the local population and the ability to support the hardworking residents rather than the government.

One of the reasons that I had never attempted to travel to Cuba was because I was afraid to book a place early on. Since I travel on a stand-by basis, it is quite difficult to know that you will positively receive a seat on the flight until just before departure, unless half of the plane is full…and that never seems to happen! By this time, most cancellation deadlines for the properties have already passed.

Many times, I have booked my hotel from the airplane while it was still at the gate, while in-flight or even after I had landed. Since my American-based cellphone would not work upon my arrival, none of these options were viable since I really needed a response from the property owner confirming my reservation and the address of the accommodation, unlike staying in a hotel.

As I stressed the night before about this trip, I reached out to two of the properties, on the Airbnb website, that looked nice and appeared to be in the area that I wanted. Thankfully, the owner of Havana Dream, was awake in the middle of the night, talking to his family in Spain (as I later learned). When I explained my situation, he readily gave me the address and told me to book later that morning when I had a better handle on the situation. It was truly that bit of understanding that led me to have an outstanding experience.

My fears were put to rest when the gentleman who sat next to me on the plane, a tour guide, told me that he regularly keeps clients at that location. I knew that it wasn’t one of the cheaper places to stay, but I took his words to heart. “You truly get what you pay for in Havana. You will not regret staying at this place.”

Another added touch, that helped me to feel comfortable, was the fact that the owner arranged for a classic car and driver to meet me at the airport. With my limited Spanish, it was a relief to know that someone would be waiting for me and I would not have to communicate the directions. Though the service was at my expense, it was one that helped my navigation from the airport to the downtown area immensely.

Still, one never knows what you are going to get until you actually arrive.

As we pulled up to the door on Obrapia Street, I was a little skeptical. I followed the driver up a narrow set of of concrete stairs, passing an entrance to other units beyond an iron gate. Another gate was opened for us to ascend yet another flight of concrete stairs. And there I was…

Havana Dream.

The manager, Judy, met me in the sitting area and as I looked around, it definitely looked like the pictures that had motivated me to book. The sitting, kitchen and dining areas were the nucleus of the home and was quite beautiful and modern. There were stunning antiques and showcases filled with expensive-looking place settings, flatware and glassware and the kitchen cabinets and appliances were all flawless, stainless steel. Amazing art pieces, crystal chandeliers and fresh flowers completed the look!

The door to my room was one of two, immediately off of this area. As Judy led me in, I can say that I knew, then and there, that I had indeed made the right choice. My bed was pristinely made, covered in a white bedspread with embroidered pillows with the the name of this casa particular. There were small night tables and lamps on either side of the bed, with USB ports for my charging needs, and a luggage rack, a place to hang my clothes and soft, monogrammed robes. Across from the bed, there was an antique bureau which had been converted into a washbasin, an antique sewing machine, which was flipped under so that the top could be used as a table and a television mounted on the wall. Since it is advised to bring a great deal of cash for spending purposes (American ATM and credit cards do not work), the safe mounted on the wall was a welcome sight. Near the luggage rack, there was a bathroom, appointed with modern fixtures and soft, white, monogrammed towels hanging on the rack.

Judy opened up the balcony doors to show me the magnificent view of the Capitol building down the street, and the plush chairs that I would later enjoy during the cooler evenings. She then took me back inside to explain options available to me during my stay. The refrigerator was stocked with water, Hollandia beer and Tukola soda. It would be restocked each day and my tab would be noted for the items I had used. As we walked back into the kitchen, I was shown the menu board with food items available, such as sandwiches and fruit shakes. As I had decided to have breakfast the next morning, Judy took note of the time that I expected to eat and my particular liking for my eggs.

Money could be exchanged in the with Judy or the owner and internet cards could also be purchased. Not having cellular service was something that had caused me great anxiety. During my ride to the casa particular, I discovered that my cellphone’s GPS was working, so I was able to navigate throughout the city without pulling out maps and advertising to everyone that I was a tourist. The internet cards were for one hour increments, however, and noting my Apple product, Judy urged me to use the minutes consecutively. They had discovered that with Iphones, sometimes the remaining minutes disappear after a one-hour card was initiated. Later, I learned that occasionally, the owner would turn on WIFI and if I was lucky enough to be there, I could tap into his network, keeping me from continually having to purchase more cards. Having the ability to touch base with my family and let them know that I was okay was comforting.

Noting all of the modern products in the home, the lack of stores offering home furnishings and necessities required to run an establishment such as this, I asked the owner one day about how he was able to furnish the place so eloquently. Though originally born in Cuba, he spent most of his life in Spain and from there, devised the plan to open a casa particular in Havana. Much thought and planning was given to the project and countless hours were spent acquiring what was needed to remodel and ready the property. It was then all packed into a shipping container and transported across the ocean. Here, it was all combined with a loving touch so that visitors would be welcomed for a comfortable stay in the city.

He spoke so passionately about the project and his plans to continually improve the premises. Taking me outside, he led me past the other two bedrooms, in the back of the unit, to a set of intimidating stairs, that probably might not meet the building code in the United States. Up we went, to the roof, where I found the space that he planned to establish a dining/relaxing area. He already had a barbeque pit, a few chairs and work had begun on the tile flooring. The view, however, was what stole the show! I could already envision myself sitting there on a future stay, relaxing and enjoying a beer, while enjoying the sunset and scenery!

Back downstairs, I enjoyed my morning breakfasts in the beautiful dining room…and yes, we ate off of the good service pieces! The women who prepared my toast, eggs and elaborate plates of delicious fruit also prepared amazing queso sandwiches! I loved these so much that on my third day, when I stopped by my room to freshen up and drop off my packages, I had them make me one for lunch!

With so many things to see in the city, location was also something that had been extremely important. Only one block from the walking street, Obispo, a popular place to people watch, this casa particular was also in close proximity to countless museums, churches, dining, shopping, the discernable Capitol building and the famous El Floridita Bar! Location perfection!

Everything about this stay was seamless and I felt truly welcomed and safe. As my driver arrived to pick me up for my return to the airport and the United States, I took some time to reflect on the “trip that almost wasn’t”. Would I have changed anything at all about what I did here or more importantly, where I stayed?

The only thing I would have changed would have been to stay longer!

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Havana Dream

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/11466898?adults=2&check_in=2020-10-13&check_out=2020-10-15&source_impression_id=p3_1601349081_OhYxO0RCpIpr3HlW
Address: 408 Obrapia Street, Havana, Cuba
Price per Night: Approximately $70 per night
Transportation to/from Airport: $25 each way
Breakfast: $7 per day, per person

The Other Side of Havana

Old Havana is filled with history, architecture, landmarks, entertainment, restaurants and museums. One would be hard pressed to not find something that interests them during their visit.

There are many other parts of the city, however, that offer up some amazing items of interest, so making a priority to step outside of the box is essential.

When I had gone on my tour of the city, we had visited the areas of Vedado, Centro Habana and Habana Viejo and crossed through the tunnel to Habana del Este. There was a brief stopover at the Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro and a drive by of Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabana, the two fortresses that lay to the east of the entrance canal to the Bay of Havana. Since I didn’t have the time to properly explore each of these or the Military Exhibition, I decided that I needed to return on my last afternoon in the city.

But how would I get there?

Toying with the idea of taking the ferry to the Christ Statue, I decided that it would be a long walk to each of the fortresses and back. Remembering that I had seen many taxi cabs parked by the Plaza 13 de Marzo, I headed in that direction, thinking that cab fare would not be much just to cross through the tunnel from that point. Quickly locating a driver, I discovered that cab fare to the east side was a flat rate of only $10 CUC. A short drive ensued and I was dropped at El Morro.

After I paid the entrance fee, I made my way through a long, semi-arched tunnel. Exiting in the bright sunshine, I found myself on the colossal ramparts of the castle, complete with sweeping views of the the city across the waterway and the Battery of Twelve Apostles below. These twelve cannons, along with with the cannons on the ramparts, helped assist in the defense of the Havana Harbor and the city.

This iconic landmark was built between 1589 and 1630 and together with the Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta, on the opposite side of the bay, was a major part of the city’s defense fortification system. To safeguard the harbor from pirates and other invaders, a chain was strung between the two fortresses.

The fortress grounds are sprawling and contain several museums; Museo del Morro, Museo de la Navegación and Museo de Piratas. These museums display artifacts and items related to the castle’s history, the city’s maritime history and pirate folklore. The most stunning part of the complex, however, is the lighthouse which was built in 1846. The lighthouse was constructed to take the place of the watchtower that was destroyed by the British during their siege in 1762.

Hoping to enjoy the views of the fort and surrounding areas from a higher vantage point, I approached the lighthouse. Finding the door open, I ventured in and made my way up the curved staircase. As I neared the top, however, I heard a voice which appeared to be talking to another on a two-way radio. Thinking that maybe I was entering somewhere where I should not be, I quickly made my way back down and out of the structure. Having to be content to enjoy the lighthouse from the castle level, I also made my way through the exhibit which detailed lighthouses throughout Cuba. It is also interesting to note that El Morro once housed a school for lighthouse keepers.

Although it was still sweltering during the afternoon, I made my way around the fort, admiring the rusted cannons, central barracks, the old latrines and the small memorial, commemorating the 1762 siege, located between the two strong powder rooms in the northeast bastion. There was also a stairway which contained many clay vats leading to a hidden exit at the Star platform. These earthenware jars are called tinajones and were place there for the storage of the oil used in the lighthouse. Now empty, it was worth the descent for the lovely views of the water, the city and the Battery of the Twelve Apostles.

After a quick stop in the cafe for some much needed water, a walk through the vendor’s stalls and a walk around the grounds, I decided to make my way to the east and the Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabana. Known as one of the most complex and expensive defense systems in the Americas, it is also one of the largest.

Constructed in the 18th century with some of most advanced military defensive features, it was named after King Carlos III of Spain, who demanded a spyglass to see it from Madrid. He claimed that such a fortress, which cost so much, surely could be seen across the ocean!

Over the years, the fortress has been used as a prison, a storage facility and, more famously, as the command headquarters of Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara. After renovations were completed the early 1990s, different museums were opened within the complex including the Museo de Armas (Museum of Arms), Comandacia de ‘Che’ Guevara (Command Headquarters of ‘Che’ Guevara) and a museum of the history of the fortress.

Most famously, La Cabana is known for attracting thousands of locals and visitors each night to witness a tradition that began in the eighteenth century; the firing of the 9 o’clock cannon. Having heard the shot from my location in Old Havana each night, I had hoped to witness the spectacle at the fortress during my visit.

As I arrived in the late afternoon, after a short walk from El Morro, I was able to enter via the great drawbridge, which in turn, led to another bridge which crossed the now-dry moat. The innards of the fort was laid out much like a small city and I admired the repetitive framework. Making my way to the ramparts to admire the restored cannons and the excellent views of both the city and of El Morro, I marveled at the sheer size of this place.

Discovering the Comandacia de ‘Che’ Guevara (Command Headquarters of ‘Che’ Guevara), I explored the items of interest that were once in his possession, including the desk from which he made revolutionary decisions. Next door, I was welcomed by an elderly gentleman who was manning the International Book Fair, held here annually…a great place to visit, if you read in Spanish.

Out in the courtyard, I found the inimitable sundial which told me that it was around five o’clock, the time which everything begins to shut down around the city. Since no one was asking me to leave, I continued my explorations, but found the chapel and the Museum of Arms closed. Noting that vendors were setting up, I realized that they must do so each evening in anticipation of the crowds that arrive for the cannon firing. Although I walked around a bit more, I realized that the restaurants I had encountered were not open. I was tired, hungry, ready for a shower and nine o’clock was a few hours away. Besides, I wasn’t even sure how I was going to get home!

Stopping for a few more photo opportunities on my way out, I hesitated at the road. Should I turn right and head toward the Christ Statue and try to catch the ferry back to Havana or should I turn left and head back to El Morro where I might be lucky enough to find an empty cab? It was a tough decision because I really didn’t know how far I was from the ferry. Turning toward El Morro, I prayed for a passing cab. Some passed with patrons and an empty one did drive by, but I did not see it until it was too late to flag it down! Continuing down the road, I finally made it back to El Morro and as luck would have it, I saw an old Russian cab.

Now, I had ridden in many classic cars during my visit, but this type of car was one that I had maybe only seen during my trips to Moscow years ago; the Russian Lada. It wasn’t a very smooth ride back through the tunnel, but it certainly was unique! The little old gentleman driving put on “Mack the Knife” as he swerved, bumped and sped me back to Old Havana. It was seriously one of the funniest, yet terrifying moments I have ever had in a cab…and I take cabs in New York regularly! (Check out the video on Facebook, Snapping the Globe).

Finally, setting my feet on terra firma and still a bit shaky, I headed back to my Airbnb for my last night.

My last night to enjoy delicious Cuban food…

My last night to say admire the amazing architecture…

My last night to hear the cannon firing…

My last night to lay in bed and listen to the city outside my door…

My last night to enjoy my Airbnb host’s hospitality…

I realized that for all my uncertainty about taking this trip, I had found a place that rated in the top of my all-time favorite places! A place that I will certainly return in the future. After all, there were still many things to see within the city and so much outside of it!

Yes, Cuba…I am coming back!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Castillo De Los Tres Reyes Del Morro

Address: Havana, Cuba
Hours: 1000-1900, daily
Admission: $4 CUC (about $4 US)

Fortaleza San Carlos de la Cabana

Address:
Hours: 1000-2200, daily
Admission: $4 CUC (about $4 US)

Sanctuaries and Souvenirs

The early bird gets the worm…or a great breakfast!

Although I had checked many things off of my list of things to do in Havana, there was still a great deal more to see! As I sat in the dining room, enjoying my eggs, fruit and toast, I checked my map and thought more about the some of the things that were suggested by my seatmate on the flight to Havana.

Deciding to start at the Basilica and Convent of San Francis of Assisi, I thought that I would finally see more of the religious institutions that dot the predominately Catholic country.

Getting anywhere was slow going as I was continually distracted by the unique architecture that existed on each block. Passing the Museo Casa de Mexico Benito Juarez, I made a note to return later if there was time and then made a quick stop to admire the statue of Simon Bolivar, the Venezuelan military and political leader who led Venezuela, Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru and Panama to independence from the Spanish Empire.

*Casa de Benito Juarez* *and Simon Bolivar Statue*

Finally arriving in the Plaza de San Francisco de Asis, I first sought out two significant statues. The monument to the Polish composer, Frederic Chopin, sits on a bench, beckoning visitors to take a seat next to him and El Caballero, the bronze likeness of José María López Lledín, a man which much speculation once surrounded. An interesting story surrounds the latter. Originally from Spain, he was was said to have lost his family, arrested for a crime he did not commit and wandered the streets of Havana during the 1950s. He always carried a portfolio with his treasured pens, gifts and colored pieces of cards, which he bestowed on passersby. Over time, he became well known throughout the city and would often entertain with poetry recitals and storytelling. He died in 1985 and was buried in the Cemetery of Santiago de las Vegas. After the restoration of the plaza in the late 1990s, his remains were exhumed and placed in the Basilica Menor de San Francisco de Asis. His statue was erected in 2001 and was designed by sculptor José Villa Soberón, who also sculpted the John Lennon sculpture which can be found in the Parque Lennon in Vedado. His beard has been rubbed shiny and it is said that doing so gives good luck!

After a beard rubbing, I admired the lovely, wide open plaza and the beautiful buildings surrounding it, as well as the statue of Fray Junípero Serro with a Juaneño Indian boy, before entering the Basilica.

The original church that stood on this site was built by the Franciscans in 1591 but was damaged by severe storms in 1680 and 1692. A hurricane toppled its tower in 1694. Eventually, construction resulted in the church’s present Baroque stature in 1739, was named a basilica by the Pope and became the city’s premier house of worship. It eventually adjoined the adjacent Franciscan convent.

As I ventured inside, again I was a bit underwhelmed, as I had been with the Havana Cathedral. Its interior is in the shape of a Latin cross with domed ceilings, however, it lacked the grandeur that I thought would exist here. As I later learned, however, from 1762, the church no longer served the Catholic religion. From this time, the British had control over Havana and commandeered the basilica for Anglican services. Considered desecrated by the Protestants, Catholicism never existed within its walls again. Although the monks continued to occupy the convent, Queen Maria Cristina of Spain closed the building and transferred the members of the religious order. In 1907, the property was purchased by the government and sadly, became a warehouse.

Today, the church acts as one of Havana’s most outstanding concert halls and is home to the acclaimed all-female chamber orchestra, Camerata Romeu. As I wandered through the church, I was privy to some of the members performing during a rehearsal session.

Inside the crypt, the remains of many 17th and 18th century aristocrats can be found. The nave and the attached cloister also houses the Museum of Sacred Art which exhibits paintings by José Nicolás de la Escalera and Vicente Escobar, wooden images, early marriage registries and the armchairs and lectern used by Fidel Castro and Pope John Paul II during his 1998 visit. Though I enjoyed wandering through the church’s interior, it was the cloister with its fern-filled courtyards and countless rooms filled with religious artifacts that was most captivating.

The former church’s one hundred and thirty-seven foot tower, once the tallest in Havana (second tallest in Cuba), was previously crowned by a statue of St. Francis of Assisi, whose head was severed during a hurricane in 1846. Though the tower can be accessed by a somewhat rickety staircase (which I had planned to tackle for the beautiful views of the city), it was sadly not meant to be…the spire was closed due to maintenance.

Making my departure, I headed south on Oficios and immediately found myself staring at a train’s coach car, El Coche Mambi. Entering the car, I was greeted by an elderly woman, who explained (in Spanish) that visiting was by tour only. After paying her, she then led me through the car which was used by the Presidents on their tours of the country. Last used by Fidel Castro Ruz, the coach has been converted into a museum and preserved the same as when it was in use. Though my Spanish is basic, I mostly understood the history and what I was seeing as she led me through the coach and explained its contents. The president’s bedroom, the president’s wife’s bedroom, the kitchen, dining room and the president’s desk were quite interesting and beautifully displayed.

As I thanked the gracious senora for the short, yet insightful stopover, I ventured out, making my way to the waterside.

Headed toward the ferry terminal, I first encountered Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral. Since I had deemed the day, “a church day”, I decided that my ferry to Regla could wait while I find if it was possible to see the church’s interior. Discovering unlocked doors, I peered inside, spying a woman performing some tasks. She did not seem disturbed by my presence, so I quietly entered and moved throughout the space, discovering each of the elements that make an orthodox church unique.

The church’s construction dates back to 2004 when Cuban leader Fidel Castro offered to build the cathedral as a monument to Russian and Cuban good-will. The cathedral was built in the Byzantine style with a central golden cupola surrounded by four smaller copper-colored ones. The pieces of the cupolas, as well as elements of decoration, including the floor covering and the church plate, were brought from Moscow and the interior has space for 500 congregants.

After my walk-thru was complete, I ventured back out into the sunshine, finally heading to the ferry terminal. My destination was the small town across the bay where the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Regla is located. Though I probably would have not done this without some coaxing, it was highly recommended by the tour guide that I sat beside on the airplane. After hearing how much I love visiting churches, he insisted that I take the ferry to see this church, which houses the black Madonna, a highly venerated statue of the Virgin Mary.

I was a bit nervous as I entered the ferry terminal. After having my bag searched, I unsuccessfully searched for a ticket counter. There were many people waiting and as a boat approached from the south, I assumed that this was the correct vessel. Lining up with both locals and tourists, I asked a gentleman if this was the boat to Regla and was told yes, only to glance up and discover that another boat had pulled up to the dock. Hmmm. I decided that I would go with my gut!

As I approached the lanchita on the right, I saw people paying the crew as they boarded. Thankfully, I had smaller change, even though I overpaid a bit…ticket price was only 10 centavos! Making my way across the boat to the open doorways, so that I could get some air while fighting for space among the masses, I again asked someone (who appeared to be a local) if I was on the boat to Regla. “Si Señora”, he replied and I breathed a sigh of relief.

As we pulled away from the dock, I realized that if I indeed was on the wrong boat, the other ferry crossed the bay to the Christ statue and that wouldn’t be such a bad thing. Our ferry motored off, getting further from the city and I spied the golden cupola of Our Lady of Kazan in the distance, reflecting the brilliant glow of the day. And…it looked like we were headed in the right direction!

Seven minutes later, we were pulling up to the dock in Regla and I decided to follow those who appeared to be tourists. From the looks of the area, it seemed like the church was the tourist destination of choice…maybe the only choice.

Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Regla was a short walk and I was met by many vendors sitting on the stone gates which surrounded the church, hoping to sell me a candle or an offering to the Virgin. The church, with its long colorful history, is extremely important to the believers of the Virgin. The statue, which was believed to have been carved by St. Augustine “the African” in the 5th century, was brought from Spain in 453. After surviving a storm in the Strait of Gibraltar, it became known as the patron of sailors.

A small hut was built on the site, to house a copy of the image in 1687 by a pilgrim named Manuel Antonio, but was destroyed by a hurricane only five years later. A more durable chapel was built a few years later and in 1714, Nuestra Señora de Regla was proclaimed patron of the Bahía de la Habana. In 1957, the image was crowned by the Cuban Cardinal in the Havana Cathedral. On September 7, the saint is celebrated when thousands of pilgrims descend on Regla and the image is paraded through the streets.

The church’s vaulted ceiling makes a grand statement above the lightness of the church’s color scheme which is trimmed in blue, a salute to its association with the sea. There are beautiful paintings which depict life on the ocean, carved stations of the cross, saint’s statues and a golden side altar. As you enter the church, however, it is the altar, directly in your line of vision, that houses La Santísima Virgen de Regla. Though I had to wait a short time, I was finally able to approach the altar and take pictures of the Black Madonna…truly awe inspiring.

The ferry ride back to Old Havana was a quick affair and I toyed with the idea of immediately jumping on the other ferry. I wanted to revisit the Christ Statue and Castillo Des Los Tres Reyes Del Morro and I also wanted to tour La Cabana. There were other things in Old Havana that I wanted to discover first, however, so off I went by land, towards the Almacenes San José Artisan’s Market.

Since I had done a bit of browsing on Obispo street, but not yet made any significant purchases, I was eager to see what I might find in this highly recommended establishment. Built in 1885, the Havana’s oldest depository is the home to the largest artisan’s market in the city. A short walk from the harbor, it is easily accessible to cruise ship arrivals and offers everything from clothes to paintings to toys and tobacco accessories. The sheer size of it was quite overwhelming and I was not sure where to turn. As everyone tried to garner my attention, I decided that I would try to find shirts for my sons and a nativity set for my collection. In a predominately Catholic country, it would seem that finding a nativity set would be an easy feat, however, it took at least a half an hour of talking to people, who then went to talk to people, in order to find one! And since I was pretty particular about the type of t-shirts that I was searching for, it was a similar procedure. It was quite exhausting, but I met some interesting people, learned some interesting local news and walked away with the purchases I had planned and then a couple of unplanned ones too!

With my heavy package, I decided that I would begin heading back to my Airbnb to drop them and have a quick bite to eat. Crossing the street, however, I spotted the Church of St. Francisco of Paula. What caught my attention was the tall trio of stained glass windows on the rear of the church. I decided that I should take a quick look from the inside to see their sunlit beauty.

What originally served as an important hospital for women and children during the end of the 17th century, was built with an adjoining church devoted to St. Francis of Paola, one of the founders of the Roman Catholic Order of the Minims. The buildings were destroyed by a hurricane in 1730, but rebuilt in the Baroque style that is seen today. When the Havana Central Railroad attempts to demolish the church was met by opposition, work was completed to have it listed as a National Monument in 1944. Sadly, however, the railroad was able to destroy the hospital.

The church that can be visited today is similar in style to other Havana churches, those of Santo Domingo, Guanabacoa and San Francisco de Asis and has been extensively restored. The stained glass windows, that lured me inside, act as the altarpiece and this church has the only organ that has been preserved in Cuba with its original pipes and machinery. The ashes of the great Cuban violinist Claudio José Brindis de Salas (1852-1911), considered one of the best violinists of his time, are preserved in the church and although the the belfry still exists, its original three bells, destroyed during the hurricane of 1730, were never restored.

My stomach was starting to rumble and my feet were starting to ache, but there was one more church I wanted to see before I shifted gears. A couple of blocks from St. Francis of Paola church was the Iglesia y Convento de la Merced.

Having seen a few churches in the city, I had been a bit underwhelmed. This one, however, did not disappoint. One of the most beautiful churches in Havana, it was built between 1865 and 1867 in the Baroque style and is the type to make you gasp as you lay your eyes on the interior. Decorated by Cuban artists, it contains murals and frescoes throughout with highlights of light blue on the ceiling and an elegant black and white marble floor. Beautiful statuary and intricately carved stations of the cross grace its heart and it was hard not to take a seat on the old carved pews to rest and pray for a few moments. The most intriguing part of the church, however, was the chapel on the left side of the church with a full grotto installed behind the altar. Though the church is suffering from exposure to the damp air and is in need of restoration, it is truly one that I was glad that I did not miss.

Finally, it was time to continue my journey back to my temporary home. It had been a busy morning and I needed to refresh and refuel. After my lunch, it would be time to change channels from churches to the forts that lay across the channel.

From prayers to protection…all in a day in Havana!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Casa Benito Juarez

Address: 116, Obrapia, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: Sunday and Tuesday only, 0930-1430.
Admission: Unknown

Statue of Simon Bolivar

Address: Mercaderes, Obrapia, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Convento and Basilica Menor of San Francis of Assisi

Address: Plaza de San Francisco La Habana Vieja, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0930-1800, daily
Admission: Church and Museum, $2 CUC (about $2 US), Tower $1 CUC (about $1 US), Children under 12 years, free

El Coche Mambi

Address: Oficios y Churruca, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 0930-1600. Closed Sunday.
Admission: By tour only, $2 CUC (about $2 US)

Our Lady of Kazan Orthodox Cathedral

Address: Avenida del Puerto Esquina Calles Sol y Santa Clara – La Habana Vieja, Havana 10100 Cuba
Hours: No posted opening times
Admission: free

Terminal de Ferris (Ferry Terminal)

Address: Avenue Del Puerto, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: 0400-midnight, daily.
Admission: 10 centavos (about 10 cents US)
Capacity is 90 persons and boats depart every 15 minutes

Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Regla

Address: Avenue Marti, Regla, Cuba
Hours: 0800-1700, daily
Admission: free, donations accepted

Almacenes San José Artisan’s Market

Address: Avenida del Puerto corner of Calle Cuba
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 1000-1800. Closed on Monday.
Admission: free

St. Francis of Paola

Address: 110 Leonor Pérez, Havana, Cuba
Hours: No posted opening times
Admission: free

Iglesia Y Convento de la Merced

Address: Calle de Cuba 806, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Hours listed are 0800-1200 and 1500-1700, Monday-Saturday and 0900-1300, Sunday, however, I ventured in after the noon hour, so church may or may not be closed. Mass times are 0900, Monday-Saturday and noon, Sunday
Admission: free

Halfway Thru Havana

Three o’clock and thirsty.

There was still plenty of daylight and most attractions in Cuba did not close for a little while. I needed a plan of action that might include a frosty beverage!

Grabbing a seat on a rustic bench, I took a second to regroup.

Iglesia del Santo Angel Custodio near the Revolution Museum caught my eye. I had just been near there and it meant a little backtracking, but there were many restaurants just around the corner and it would be nice to have a seat and something to drink.

Though the church was not open, I discovered that it sat on a pretty, yet tiny, colonial square, Plazuela de Santo Ángel. A lovely bronze statue of a woman holding court in front of the church captured my attention. She was dressed in vintage attire, holding a fan and appeared to have just left the church and was going to do her business in Old Havana.

Although there is a placard on the church wall which tells visitors about this woman, Cecilia Valdes, I had to wait until later to decipher who she was as it was written in Spanish. What I later learned was that this woman is the title heroine of a popular 19th century book which had a scene set at this location. The book has inspired operas, literary reiterations and a feature film and has been considered one of the most important novels detailing life in 19th century Cuba. You can also take note of the bust on the nearby wall of Cirilo Villaverde, the Cuban poet, novelist, journalist and freedom fighter. He is known especially for one great literary piece of work. Yes…the novel, Cecilia Valdes!

As I made my way away from the square, I was intrigued with the area. There were captivating outdoor cafes, fun souvenir shops and colorful fans hanging above the street. It was a beautiful afternoon and it was nice to take a seat under one of the large umbrellas and enjoy a refreshing cerveza!

Once again, I continued my explorations and there was a great detail to take in; small, beautifully crafted tiles on buildings, artists putting the finishing touches on their masterpieces, bits of grafitti, a statue of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes and city wall ruins in the Parque Cespedes La Maestranza and the Police Headquarters situated in a old fortress, were just a few of the treasures that I encountered along the way.

Music playing in the distance caught my ear and I followed the tune. Finding myself in the Plaza de la Catedral, a known locale of countless street performers, I stared up at the profound Havana Cathedral, also known as the Catedral de San Cristobal. One of the eleven cathedrals on the island, it serves as the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese. Built between 1748 and 1777, it was consecrated in 1782.

The Baroque architectural style is quite commanding as you stand before the cathedral in the plaza and if your eye is quite discerning, you may notice that the two bell towers are of unequal size and height. Approaching the facade, I noticed that there were fossilized marine fauna and flora in the stone, quickly realizing that the Cathedral is constructed from coral. It is quite beautiful and I could not wait to see what its interior held, especially knowing that it was designed by Italian architect Francesco Borromini.

The interior is decorated in the neoclassical style and has a central nave, two side aisles, eight side chapels and is in the form of a Latin cross. Though my initial impression of the interior was that it was stunning, with its palatial columns and soaring vaulted ceilings, I realized that it was more of an understated beauty. I have seen my share of opulent religious building throughout the world and this one was not of that class. It was, however, welcoming and offered many sculptures, paintings and frescoes throughout its interior. Some of these paintings and frescoes are by masters Peter Paul Rubens and Bartolome Esteban Murillo. Other standouts are a statue of Apolinar Serrano, Spanish bishop of Havana, who is buried in the Cathedral, a sculpture of Saint Christopher, the Patron Saint of Havana, three fading frescoes by Giuseppe Perovani above the altar, a canvas of the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception, Patroness of the Cathedral, and on the altar, sculptures and goldsmith works made in Rome during the first half of the 19th century.

The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Christopher and between 1796 and 1898, the remains of Christopher Columbus were kept in the Altar of the Gospel before being taken to the Seville Cathedral in Spain after the Cuban War of Independence.

Finding the side door open, I ventured out and discovered access to the right belltower. I suspected that someone is usually stationed at the entrance to collect an admittance fee, however, no one was present. Making my way up each level of the campanile, I had bird’s eye views of each of the mighty carillons as well as panoramas of the plaza below and even a view across the river of the Christ of Havana. A small gate was unlocked and I discovered that it led onto a portion of the roof. Since there was no one to tell me that I was not allowed and no signs, I ventured to the area and was rewarded with close glimpses of the tiled roof and the spectacular flying buttresses.

After my visit to the Cathedral was complete, I headed back out into the Plaza de la Catedral. Musicians were performing at the El Patio restaurant and locals and visitors were dancing in the square. There were gaily dressed Cuban women, seated at tables and telling fortunes and a general sense of celebration. Walking down the Empedrado, I witnessed many artists along the thoroughfare and older women holding tight between their teeth, one of the things Cuba is known for. It seems that they have learned that tourists love the photo opportunity to pose with a cigar smoking old lady! Here, I also found La Bodeguita del Medio, the famous bar which lays claim to being the birthplace of the Mojito cocktail, prepared in the establishment since its opening in 1942. Though I would have loved to go inside, the line was fairly long and I really would have preferred to come back in the evening for a proper drink.

Cutting back across the Plaza de la Catedral, my next destination was the Plaza de Armas, Havana’s oldest square. Originally known as Plaza de Iglesia for a church that stood on the site, it was developed in the 1520s. Its current name was adopted in the late 16th century, when the governor used the site to conduct military exercises.

Today, the square is centered with a marble statue of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes and bounded by some important buildings which include the 18th century Palacio de Los Condes de Santovenia (now known as the Hotel Santa Isabel), El Templete, the Public Library, the Museum of Natural History, the Palacio del Segundo Cabo, the Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales and the Castillo de la Real Fuerza.

Hoping to be able to visit the Castillo de la Real Fuerza before closing time, I raced around the property to find the entrance. Luckily, I was allowed inside and began my exploration of the oldest Spanish stone fortress in the Western Hemisphere.

Constructed between 1555 and 1577, to safeguard against pirate attacks, it later became the official residence of the Governor of Havana and served as Cuba’s National Archive and National Library. After the Revolution, it housed government offices and a museum of arms. Today, the Castillo de la Real Fuerza, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982, serves as a Museum of Ceramics and a Maritime Museum.

After making my way through the lower level and discovering the maritime artifacts located there, I ventured to the second level which houses the bulk of the Maritime Museum and includes the Naval Model-Making Salon and the Underwater Archeology Warehouse. The most spectacular part of the second level, however, is the watchtower which was added in 1634 and is now a symbol of the city. This watchtower is adorned with a bronze statuette, a replica of La Giraldilla of the Seville Cathedral and is used as a weather vane. Though I originally had no knowledge of this watchtower, it was the ladies keeping watch over the museum salons who wanted me to see what made the castle special, that unlocked the door and let me out on the balcony to see it up close!

Upon my departure from the castle, I headed back to the Plaza de Armas. As I entered the gates of El Templete, I was taken aback by the neoclassical architecture, not very common in Havana. The small Greco-Roman temple with Doric columns, dates back to 1827, and was erected in the place where it was believed that the Villa de San Cristobal de la Habana was founded in 1519. Though the workers were in the process of closing the premises for the day, they allowed me to take a quick peek to see the three valuable paintings by French painter Juan Bautista Vermey, which depict the first mass, the first council and the blessing of the Templete on its inauguration.

Inside the courtyard, you can spy the Column of Cajigal which honors the Spanish governor in charge of its construction, an image of the Virgin of Pilar, patroness of Spanish sailors (atop the column), and a marble bust of Governor Don Hernando de Soto, the first governor of the town of San Cristobal de La Habana. The ceiba tree, a sacred symbol in various religions, is one of many that has stood on the site. The latest has existed since 1960 and on November 16, residents come to the tree after midnight, circle it three times and throw a coin to its roots and make a wish.

Crossing the plaza, I stepped into the courtyard of the Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales, the former offical residence of the governors of Havana. Dating back to the late 1700’s, it is home to the Museum of the City of Havana and houses exhibitions of art and historical artifacts. Though I would have loved to see the interior and its original colonial decor, the palace was closing for the day.

Though I was disappointed in not having had the opportunity to visit the palace, I stepped back into the street, which I discovered was paved with wooden blocks. This was the first time I had ever seen this and believe me, it was pretty cool!

Walking past the plaza, I made my way past the Mezquita Addallah and Parque Guayasamin toward the beautiful Old Town Square. Though there are many squares and plazas throughout the city, this one was my favorite. Laid out in 1559, this square offers buildings in many different architectural styles, as well as a fountain and unique sculpture. It was here that I finally encountered the Town Dogs.

I learned about the Town Dogs during my tour that morning but even though I had kept a keen eye out, I had not encountered any of them. The Town Dogs are designated as such by the mayor, protected and cared for by the city, each being vaccinated and sterilized. They wear a tag bearing their names and addresses and are free to roam on their own. Lounging on the steps of the Camera Obscura, I found Nina and P. Oblivious to the fact that I was excited to see them, neither were extremely cooperative about giving me a photogenic look…probably because they also had had a long day and were as tired as I was!

Spying a restaurant balcony with seating across the square, I made a beeline in that general direction. The Don Eduardo Alegre Bar and Restaurant was the perfect way to relax and enjoy the amazing view below, the perfect place to enjoy a cold beer and the perfect way to end my day!

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Iglesia del Santo Angel Custodio

Address: Calle Compostela y Cuarteles Loma del Ángel, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0700-1900, daily
Admission: free

Catedral de San Cristobal

Address: Calle Empedrado 156 , La Habana Vieja, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0930-1700, Sunday 1030-1200, Sunday Mass at 0900.
Admission: free. Tower access, $1 CUC ($1 US)

Castello de la Real Fuerza

Address: Plaza de Armas e/Calle O’Reilly y Av. del Puerto Calle Desamparado/San Pedro, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0830-1830, daily
Admission: $1 CUC ($1 US)

Hoofing It Thru Havana

Especial del dia…pollo con queso en trigo.

As I sat in the sanwicheria, eating my chicken and cheese sandwich, I contemplated how to tackle parts of the city which I had not seen that day or on my previous day’s ventures.

Should I make my way to the waterside area bordering Avenue del Puerto for its many museums and churches, venture out to the Malecon’s architectural wonders and take in the fresh sea air or head south to the Almacenes San Jose Artisans’ Market to seek out some exclusive treasures?

Finally deciding to head north, I made my way along the narrow, dusty streets stopping to capture the captivating architecture and scenes of daily life on my camera. What fascinated me most, however, were the small markets and the carnicerias…not for what they offered or for their appearances, but how locals were required to stand outside in long lines to purchase products. I was a bit confused with the markets, especially, as people stood with their noses pressed against the windows while shopkeepers unlocked the door and allowed one person inside at irregular intervals. After speaking with my host, I learned that purchases are regulated by the government and it is sometimes difficult for locals to obtain necessities. Thankfully, drinks (beer, water and soda) and food were provided by my host and charged to my account, so I never had to figure out how to gain admission into these exchanges.

Continuing on, I decided to conquer the northern part of the city, starting with the Museum of the Revolution. After paying my admission and checking my backpack in the baggage room, I made my through the former Presidential Palace, which dates back to the initiation of its construction in 1913. The awe-inspiring building was decorated by Tiffany’s of New York, contains a jaw-dropping double staircase and many exquisite rooms including the Salón de los Espejos (Hall of Mirrors), which resembles the room in the Palace of Versailles, the Salón Dorado, used for banquets and decorated in Louis XVI style, the Despacho Presidencial, the President’s office where Fidel Castro was sworn in in 1959 and the chapel with its Tiffany chandelier.

*Salón de los Espejos* (*Hall of Mirrors*)

Though I was originally unaware of Cuba’s history, especially during the revolutionary period, the displays, though mostly captioned in Spanish, contain much documentation and photographic evidence of Batista’s overthrow and a somewhat skewed view of Castro’s seizure of power. There is a large array of artifacts, clothing (including blood-stained and bullet riddled uniforms), letters, documents, weapons and newspapers. If you look carefully or have a guide point it out to you, you can spy the bullet holes in the walls, near the staircase, from the students’ attempt at overthrowing the government in 1957.

In the rear of the building you can find the Granma, the vessel that brought Castro, Guevara and eighty-two others to Cuba in 1956 with the purpose of overthrowing the regime of Fulgencio Batista. Due to preservation purposes, be warned, the ship is partly obscured by the surrounding glass and continuously guarded. There are other vehicles associated with the revolution surrounding the pavilion, including planes, rockets and an old postal van that was used as a getaway car during the 1957 attack. In the courtyard and throughout the museum, there were many art pieces by Kamyl Bullaudy Rodriguez.

*Sculpture by Kamyl Bullaudy Rodriguez.*

In addition to seeing many other tourists within the museum, I was a bit taken aback to find many locals as well. I later learned, however, the museum was designed primarily to help Cubans understand their own history.

Exiting the museum, I stopped to take a look at the fragment of the former city wall and the SAU-100 tank used by Castro during the 1961 Bay of Pigs battle. Just beyond these landmarks, I made my way through the Plaza Trece de Marzo, passing the statue of patriot José Marti on horseback, a gift from U.S. donors through a fund initiated by the Bronx Museum of the Arts. The original bronze statue of Marti on horseback, by equine sculptor Anna Hyatt Huntington (from which this was modeled) can be seen in New York’s Central Park.

Walking a ways on the Paseo de Marti, again, I was in awe of the architectural gems. Although some were a shadow of their former selves, you could see the artistry that still prevails. This must have been a beautiful place to walk in its heyday and today is still a nice place to stroll with its colorfully, tiled walkways, large shade trees and dedicated effigies.

Crossing the traffic circle near the Spanish embassy, I walked up to the monument that we had passed earlier in the day during my tour…that of General Maximo Gomez, a commander in the wars for independence. The statue is well maintained and frequented by youngsters who used the wide open area to skate.

As the breeze from the Bay of Havana beckoned me toward the water, I found myself at the Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta, one of the four historic forts that defended Port Havana. Built more than 400 years ago, San Salvador de la Punta Castle is also one of the three fortresses that appear on the Cuban coat of arms.

Castle La Punta and Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro, the fort I had visited on my tour earlier during the day, were both built on either sides of the channel’s entry. For centuries, a chain barrier was stretched across the canal to prevent access into the port. If this did not deter marauders, pirates and anyone else with ill-intent, there were many large cannons pointed toward the water.

Today, the castle’s moat is no longer functional and the castle no longer serves in its original capacity. Renovated in 2002, to restore it to its original historic appearance, its interior houses the Castle Museum. There are several rooms that inform about the castle’s history and construction, displays of naval models, various objects from sunken Spanish fleets and information about underwater archeology and the slave trade. Intricate models of other castles in Spain, Italy and Cuba can be found on the lower level and many cannons and artillery can be found on the upper level. Don’t plan on asking for any assistance, the staff has other things to do during the mid-day hours! Can anyone say siesta?

After taking in the castle’s interior, make sure to walk around the promenade that surrounds the castle. Here, you can check out dedications to other castles, statues, cannons and fantastic views of the channel, Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro, La Cabana and the Malecón. Take a moment to cross back over the roadway to check out the Monument to the Eight Medical Students, a Greek-style temple, built in 1890, in memory of the students executed in the city in 1871, who were accused of violating the grave of a Spanish journalist and the Real Carcel de La Habana, the remains of a 19th century jail where political figures were incarcerated.

*Monument to the Eight Medical Students*

At the beginning of my afternoon, one of the options I considered was making my way along the waterway on the Avenue Del Puerto. I had already seen so much of Havana and there was still so much on my agenda, especially in this area. It was hard to believe I had already seen so many interesting places.

With the walkway bordering the channel nearby, I decided that that would be my general direction. Sunset was many hours away, leaving me with ample time to continue my explorations…what else would I find in this beautiful, old city?

To be continued…

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Museo de Revolucion

Address: Calle Refugio 1 entre Monserrate y Zulueta, Havana 10600 Cuba
Hours: 0930-1600, daily
Admission: Adult Nationals, $8 CUC ($8 US), Under 12 years, free. Adults, International, $10 CUC ($10 US) Guided tours, $2 ($2 US), only available in Spanish. Ticket office open from 0930-1600.

Plaza 13 de Marzo and Statue of José Marti

Address: Agramonte (y Genios), Havana, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Monument to General Maximo Gomez

Address: Av. del Puerto Calle Desamparado/San Pedro, Havana Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta

Address: Paseo de Marti Prado y Av. del Puerto, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0900-1700, Wednesday to Sunday
Admission: $6 CUC ($6 US)

Monument to the Eight Medical Students

Address: 4JWR+4W, Havana, Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

So…You Want To Go To Cuba?

Yes please.

Maybe because Cuba was denied to U.S. citizens for so long, it is a place that has held a place of honor at the top of many bucket lists when it was finally opened up again.

There were many times when I thought I would work it into my travel schedule. Sometimes something else came up…or the flights were full…or I just plain chickened out. The fact that there was no cellphone service and no connection to the mainland honestly frightened me, especially if I was going to travel there by myself or with my children.

But, each time that I didn’t take that risk, I wanted to kick myself later.

Seeing some free time on my schedule, earlier this year, I decided that I was definitely going to make this trip to Cuba happen!

Maybe.

I hoped.

Since I was going to be traveling standby, I had to watch the flights carefully and my accommodations had to be booked only when I absolutely knew that I was going to make it there.

At two in the morning, I still wasn’t sure if I was going to leave for Havana in the morning. I lay in bed struggling with the decision, my stomach in knots, wondering if I was doing the right thing. On a whim, I messaged a few Airbnb owners and explained my situation. I was going to catch an early flight to Atlanta, arriving around 7:30 a.m. At that point, I would watch the flight to Havana for an hour and then reach out to make my reservation. My biggest question was whether or not I would have enough time to hear back from them to confirm the reservation and for them to forward me the address of the accommodation. If I landed with no cell service and no address…well, you can see why I was stressed.

Almost immediately, one of the owner’s responded. He understood my circumstances and right away, sent me the address. He told me that he would await my reservation at the appointed time and that he could also arrange for a car and driver to pick me up at the airport.

One hurdle down. I could get an hour’s sleep.

After arriving at the airport, I watched the flight which was departing in four hours and after deciding that I would probably make it, I set up the reservation and secured the car and driver.

Hurdle two, down.

Settling down at the gate, I filled out the visa paperwork that was required and paid the visa fee. The agents had a lot to do with the visa processing of the other passengers and the boarding process and I stood by nervously praying that I had not made the Airbnb reservation unnecessarily. Finally, the agent motioned me over to the counter, giving me a seat assignment and my proof of insurance.

Hurdle three, down.

Walking down the jetway, I thought, “This is my last chance to bail. Am I making the right decision?”

My seat was in first class and much to the dismay of the gentleman next to me, he suddenly learned that I was infringing upon the extra space that he thought he was going to have. Graciously, however, he greeted me and informed me that he had cleaned my seat with his supply of Lysol wipes!

As we began to speak, I told him how nervous I was and learned that this was his 120th trip to Cuba! You know how they say that sometimes things happen for a reason? Well, I must have been placed next to this man for the sole purpose of making me feel good about my decision to travel to Havana on my own.

At one time, he worked as a contractor for my airline when the need arose for a liaison between the airline and the government for the onset of the initial service. Prior to that and currently, he worked and is working as a tour operator. After learning where I was staying, he made me feel extremely confident about my decision as he had booked clients at this particular property. He was surprised to hear how hesitant I was, despite having traveled around the world, sometimes solo, and assured me that I would be completely safe. After giving me a list of restaurant recommendations and special items of interest, he reached up into his baggage and pulled out a Cuban tour book. Opening it to the Old Havana section, he suggested that I spend the flight looking through it and photographing the sections that interested me.

The book was outstanding and by the time I spotted the lush, green landscape sprawling below, I was only feeling excited anticipation!

Exiting customs and immigration, I exchanged currency and then spotted a driver holding a sign with my name. As he led me into the parking lot, my breath caught a little in my chest. I had heard about the antique cars that populate the city, but this was my first glimpse of the many positioned in the lot and my driver led me to a beautiful, old turquoise Ford. It was thrilling to ride in such a beautiful antique and though I don’t speak much Spanish and he didn’t speak much English, we managed a few pleasantries and we embarked on the journey towards my hotel in Old Havana.

After an enlightening forty-five minute drive (yes, the airport is that far!), we turned onto a narrow street and pulled in front of the building that houses Havana Dream, the Airbnb that was going to be my home for the next three nights. I thanked my lucky stars that we had arranged a driver to meet me as the building was nondescript and probably would have been difficult for a regular cab driver to find.

Greeted warmly by my host and his manager, I was shown to my room, a very modern and well-appointed space with a small balcony overlooking the street and down to the National Capitol building. What a sight!

I had made it!

Now what?

Last hurdle. I needed to go out. After quizzing the house manager about the time of sunset and safety measures, I decided to take a rousing shower and dress casually enough for going out, yet smartly enough to stay out for dinner and the return before dark.

Descending the stairs, I cautiously opened the door and stepped out onto Obrapia Street.

Despite not having had decided to travel here a mere twelve hours earlier, I was finally here. My 76th country! I had mounted many hurdles to get here and it was time to see what lay in store for me.

Old Havana was out there waiting to be discovered!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Note: ATM machines and credit cards do not work for American credit cards in Cuba. American cash and other currencies can be exchanged at the airport. Bring more currency than you expect to use. Though my Airbnb arranged for the transportation, I was responsible for the fare, 30CUC. My Airbnb also provided currency exchange when needed at local, published bank rates. Additionally, wifi cards could be purchased from my Airbnb which could be used while at my accommodations, however, because I was using an Iphone, once the card’s service was initiated, it was prudent to use all of the minutes allotted or risk losing it.

Havana Dream

Address: 408 Obrapia Street, Old Havana, Cuba
Prices vary, but approximately $65-$75 per night.

At Fort Copa…To The Tune of Barry Manilow

Copacabana beach is a spectacle to behold.

Beautiful sands, highlighted by emerald waters and scantily clad bodies are what many visitors come to the city for!

Plus, who can’t stop the Barry Manilow song “Copacabana” playing in your head!

Having participated in and beheld the spectacle that is Rio’s Carnivale the night before, sleep was what I needed most, but I also did not want to miss out on a warm, cloudless day! Forcing myself up and out of bed, I decided to head to the beach, but realizing that I had somehow forgotten my bathing suit, I decided that scantily clad is not what I wanted to shoot for!

Deciding that I would still go to the beach, it would just be in a different capacity. At the far end of the beach is Fort Copacabana and the least I could do would be to squeeze in a bit of Rio’s culture and history.

As an Uber took me through the crowded streets, filled with revelers, I was glad that I was protected inside a vehicle as I watched a young girl lose her phone to a quick-footed thief! Thankfully, my driver safely deposited me at the entrance to the fort soon after!

There are a few items of interest in the entrance courtyard, including a shrine to Santa Barbara, as well as the ticket counter to obtain entry, but after entering its giant white-washed portal, it is the sumptuous views of the Copacapana beaches and and the pristine waters of the Atlantic ocean that grab your attention. There are a few pieces of military equipment lining the sea wall and a couple of quaint cafes here to enjoy the views.

Dating back to its inception in 1914, the fort is a museum which showcases many exhibits pertaining to the Brazilian Army. It was one of the most modern installations of its time and was constructed to guard the entrance to Guanabara Bay and the adjacent coastline.

In 1922, the fort was involved in an unsuccessful military uprising but was eventually converted into the Army History Museum when there was no need for Coast Artillery Batteries.

The Army History Museum is the first part of the property that can be toured. It is filled with military memorabilia and exhibits on the Brazilian military’s history.

Continuing along the walkway, I entered the actual fort and made my way through each of the exhibits, some showcasing ammunitions and others, the living and work spaces of the soldiers assigned there I marveled at the beautiful tile work and iron works decorating the arched doorways. Exploring the infirmary and engine rooms, I made my way throughout the passageways, some decorated with dioramas depicting various events in the history of Brazil.

Of special interest within the main building is the small Chapel of the Senora of Copacabana. The fort was built on the peninsula where the original church of the Nossa Senhora de Copacabana was located and the shrine gave the soldiers a place to worship and pray.

The exterior and its grounds were a maze of walkways leading to the top of the fort where the ocean’s mighty waves crashed against its base and on its topmost location is a mighty cannon. It is the perfect place to grab a spot and enjoy the beauty of not only the fort but Rio itself.

So I didn’t get to enjoy the sunshine that afternoon at the beach. I got to enjoy the sunshine at the Fort while soaking up some of Brazil’s rich history. I think that is better than any tan!

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Historical Museum of the Army and Copacabana Fort

http://www.mhexfc.eb.mil.br/pt-br/
Address: Praça Coronel Eugênio Franco, 1, Rio de Janeiro – RJ 22070-020, Brazil
Hours: 1000-1800, Tuesday to Sunday. Closed Mondays.
Admission: Adults, R $6, Students, Teachers, Seniors, 60+ and Youth ID holders, R $3. Free, Members of the military and dependents, Seniors over 80 years, Disabled, Children under 6 years, Tour guides

Carnivale Time!

Being a Louisiana native, experiencing Mardi Gras is something that I was able to check off of my bucket list many times over the years.

If attending Mardi Gras was number one on my list of all-time greatest parties, then experiencing Rio’s Carnivale was a close second.

The thought of attending Carnivale in Rio was something that had intrigued me for many years. I had been to Rio before and although I had navigated the city without incident, I must admit, I understood that it wasn’t the safest of places, so trying to find a hotel room and trying to figure out how the parades worked scared me off.

Luckily, I found myself in the position to be able to travel to Rio for work during Carnivale and actually be there for a whole forty-eight hours! The hotel room was secured, but I still had a lot of work to do to figure out how to go to the parades and festivities. And where were they by the way?

After phone calls to a friend with contacts in the city and a lot of googling, I learned a lot. Mainly that Carnival’s festivities differ a bit from Mardi Gras.

A friend explained that she had visited before and took part in the street parties that navigated the roadways in many of the neighborhoods. She described the costumes that the participants wore (a lot of tu-tus and bikini tops) and how crowded the areas could become thus necessitating many security measures. It was definitely something I probably would not want to do alone. She had never, however, gone to the Sambadrome to see the parades that roll through nightly.

Hmmm. Costumes needed to be packed and I was informed that the hotel would probably have a schedule for the street parties. But…this was not what I envisioned.

The Sambadrome…this was what I wanted to do! How could I say I had been to Rio’s Carnivale and not get to truly experience it in the Sambadrome? It did not take long to find a few websites advertising tickets for the parades. And yes…we were arriving Saturday morning and there were still tickets for that night’s festivities in the Sambadrome! Now, I just had to find friends to join me or would I be comfortable going by myself?

Reaching out to my coworkers, I found that a couple were excited to accompany me. We purchased tickets for Saturday night and everything was in place for a fun time.

And then I got the text.

Another of my coworkers, who originally hails from Rio, received a call from a friend. Did she or anyone else want to be a part of the Santa Cruz Samba school in the parade Saturday night?

Even though we had just purchased our tickets to watch the parade, we decided that this was an opportunity that we could not pass up! We could actually be IN the parade! This was truly the opportunity of a lifetime!

Quickly forwarding our costume sizes, we then found that we had to learn a song for our debut in the Sambadrome!

In Portuguese!

The day before the parade!

We embraced the challenge and wrote the song out phonetically…a bit of nonsensical jargon that only we could understand and any Brazilian would laugh at! Practicing all night, on our flight to Rio…it was quite comical!

Upon our arrival in Rio de Janeiro, we were quite exhausted but nevertheless excited. After finding a way to get our costumes, which were located an hour away, my Brazilian friend called us down into the lobby of the hotel to give us the huge bags with what we would be wearing that night.

Next on the list…finding the hotel where our tickets were to be picked up. We had ordered through a company called Bookers International. The website was easy to use and their representatives were extremely friendly and helpful when I reached out with the many questions that I had. Their setup at the Atlantic Hotel Copacabana was in a meeting room adjacent to the lobby and after a short wait outside, we were ushered in and our ticket packet was handed over to us.

Now, we only had a short time to get money (not easy when many of the ATMs were boarded up) and have dinner!

Getting dressed was thrilling! This was really happening and when we arrived in the lobby, all eyes were on us! There were many people who wanted to take pictures with us! Later, I would think back on this time and our costumes. They were interesting, but quite bulky…in fact, I think we looked a bit like green and white power rangers! When I finally saw some of the other costumes in the Sambadrome, I realized how much better they could have been!

Getting to the Sambadrome was not an easy feat. After investigating shuttle options, my friend decided that we would take Uber. Only because she was a native speaker was the reason that I agreed, as I had read that private cars were not allowed on the roadways near the Sambadrome. She was convinced, however, that we could get close enough.

The traffic was heavy and we barely fit inside the car with our unwieldy outfits. True to what I had learned, traffic was detoured a few blocks from the venue. Pulling over to the curb, we gathered our headdresses and made our way down the road, eyeing the lighted stadium in the distance.

The streets were wet from an earlier rainfall and the cheap shoes given to us made it hard to walk comfortably, each step causing distress on our soles. Finally, however, the roar of the crowd became deafening and we made our way into the ring. Walking along the outer reaches, we found the area where the many samba schools and floats were lined up.

Weaving our way around elegantly bedecked participants and huge, colorful floats, we walked for what seemed like miles. Even though we were running late, it was too hard not to lag behind and take these one-of-a-kind photos of the calm before the storm. Realizing that we had gone the wrong way, we finally turned in the opposite direction before finally spotting others dressed like us! The Santa Cruz Samba School!

Our entrance into the Sambadrome had been scheduled for eleven o’clock, however, the early rainstorms that had plagued the city had caused some major delays. We had a couple of drinks. We waited in line for the bathroom. We sat on the curb. We took a walk. We made friends. That eleven o’clock march into the Sambadrome finally turned into one o’clock in the morning. And by this time, the rain had returned.

*Free seats for observers who want to watch the line-ups or for those unable to purchase seats in the Sambadrome*

Excitement was high as we linked arms with those marching beside us. Lining up in rows of twelve, we finally moved forward entering the amazing Sambadrome.

The crowds roared and our song played.

Santa Cruz de Barbalha-Um Conto Popular No Cariri Cearense

Saudade tenho do meu Cariri
Minha terra onde nasci
E deixei meu coração
O verde admirava da varanda
Era doce minha lida
O suor do meu sertão

Êh muié guerreira
Batiza o meu lugar
A bênção a Padim Padi Ciço
Vi capitão Virgulino
Que se chamou Lampião
Maria Bunita da saia rendada
Me ensina menina prendada
A cantar como o Rei do Baião

Oh moça solteira
Oh pau da bandeira iaiá
Oh moça solteira
Pede ao santo padroeiro
Um sinhô pra ser seu par

Onde versa o trovador
Nasce a fé e alegria
No Araripe o soldadinho
Anuncia um novo dia
Nos altares eu pedi ao pai
E na fonte agradeci em paz

Lava a minha alma e cura minha dor
No peito a Santa Cruz do amor

Vou voltar
Santo Antônio de Barbalha
Ilumine essa batalha
Minha gente pede ao céu
Vou voltar
Santo Antônio de Barbalha
Ceará tem paraíso em forma de cordel

Onde plantei o meu valor
Colhi meus ideais
Vai ressoar o meu tambor
A voz que ecoa dos canaviais

Having been told that we were under the scrutiny of the judges, stationed along the length of the venue, we needed to dance, sing and smile for the entire duration. We started out strong and it was quite overwhelming to see the bystanders lining the route. They were all having a great time drinking, dancing and taking our photos!

As thrilling as it was, it was quite exhausting! Singing the same song over and over and continually dancing…in the light rain…with shoes that were falling apart…halfway through, I wondered if anyone would notice if I jumped the barrier and joined the revelers! Continual movement for over an hour and for almost half a mile, for each school to complete their performance is a LONG time!

Finally, reaching the end of the route, we mingled with the other participants in the Praça da Apoteose (Apotheosis Square), each removing as much of our costumes as we could and graciously accepting water from the volunteers assigned to make sure that we were all hydrated.

*Completion of parades at Praça da Apoteose*

Following my friend, we made our way to our assigned seats, grabbing a beer and some snacks along the way. Watching the parade from this viewpoint gave us a whole different perspective and as I watched each of the remaining schools, I learned that there were many aspects that each school was being judged on.

First and foremost, each school had between sixty-five and seventy-five minutes to make their way through the Sambadrome. No more, no less or points would be deducted. Each school had a theme and a song written specifically for that school and their theme. Most of the wealthier schools had fireworks ignited for their introduction and as we watched I began to notice similarities. Each school began their march with a dancing duo followed by percussionists, spinning ladies in their large ballgowns, the marching groups, the floats and the groups of dancers all spectacularly adorned. Be warned, however, though the costumes are elaborate, there is lots of skin being shown off!

As tired as were were, I was glad that we stayed through the night watching one of the greatest shows on earth!

Having had the experience of being in the parade and watching from above, I think next time, we all agreed that it would be nice to purchase tickets to watch from the ground level in the Camarotes (VIP boxes) where some of our friends had spent the evening. Making our way back to the hotel, we realized that we had lots of time to make a plan for the next year. The sun was rising, our beds were calling and we had the rest of the day to enjoy the beach in one of the most breathtaking cities in South America!

FOR EXCITING VIDEOS and more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe. Also check out Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.com.

Note: All photos were taken with an Iphone, due to the security aspect and because I could not carry my Canon in the parade. Therefore, pictures taken from the grandstands are not as clear as if I had taken them with the Canon due to the distance factor.

Rio Carnivale

Foggy Days

Standing atop the highest point in Cuttyhunk, I looked down past the oyster ponds to the beaches of the West End at a stone tower perched alone on an arm of the island.

With a little investigation, I learned that this stone tower was the Cuttyhunk Monument, dedicated to the island’s founder, Bartholomew Gosnold.

In 1602, Gosnold sailed toward the Americas with the intent to set up a new colony and trading post. After brief stops in Maine and Provincetown, he then landed on Elizabeth’s Isle, known today as the island of Cuttyhunk.

Gosnold, a lawyer, traveled in high circles, practicing law with Sir Walter Raleigh and Sir Walter Drake and enjoying regular performances by Shakespeare. It has also been speculated that he had ties to the Knights Templar and may have been trying to find their settlement on Narragansett Bay.

After a successfully harvesting a ton of sassafras, known for its healing properties, cedar timbers and furs, the settlement was disbanded and the group set off to return to England. Though Gosnold didn’t realize the colony that he set out to establish, he left his mark on the area. He is credited with naming Cape Cod because of the abundance of cod in its waters and Martha’s Vineyard for his deceased infant daughter and his wife’s grandmother, Martha Golding, as well as the wild grapes growing there. It is believed that he introduced the wheelbarrow to the New World and that Shakespeare’s play, The Tempest, may have been based on the documentation kept by Gosnold and his companions. Gosnold, continued his explorations and was part of the group responsible for the first English colony at Jamestown.

In 1902, construction of a 70 foot stone tower was initiated as a tribute to Bartholomew Gosnold on the spot where it was believed he set up the island’s first settlement. The monument was completed and dedicated on September 1, 1903.

When staying with my friend a couple of years ago, I read a small article about the the Cuttyhunk Monument. Remembering this article, I vowed that I was going to head out to the West End of the island to see this monument up close and personal.

One day, we set out for the long walk to the West End. Having spoken with a couple of other residents, we were warned to check the tide schedule as the water crosses the path between the two salt ponds, that leads to the beach. After we arrived, however, the fog rolled in quickly and we couldn’t see a thing.

A few more days passed and my time in Cuttyhunk was coming to a close. I was determined to make it out to get a better view of the monument. During the early morning, I woke up to a dense fog covering the island. Deciding that our adventure was just not going to happen, I closed my eyes and burrowed down deeper under the covers. Strangely enough, when I awoke later, the sun was shining and we decided to give it a try.

The day was hot and the dirt road a bit rocky and uneven. We continued our quest and as we came upon a hill, we were able to look through the clearing to a clear beach…and the monument! Wow! We were going to get a good view!

Trudging down the hill, we passed through the tall sea grass and tiptoed over the stones that separated the oyster ponds. We could see the monument to our left, but there was something else. The fog was rolling in!

Quickly, we made our way to the beach, walking in the direction of the monument and praying that this bout of fog was going to disperse. I have to say, I never gave up on that idea, but sadly, even though it thinned at times, it never really cleared. I guess the bright side was that I could still see the monument through the fog, yet, it wasn’t conducive to the beautiful photographs I had dreamed of. I must admit, however, this gloom, no matter how rarified, lent a creepy atmosphere, one that I could imagine the first settlers encountered when first stepping foot on this spot. I could almost imagine the native settlers standing on the point, waiting to greet the newcomers.

Sitting there on a large boulder, smelling the salty air, my imagination began to wander. What was it like landing here for the first time? Exciting, yet frightening, I am sure.

Wait, was that a ghost, standing on the point? The ghost of Bartholomew Gosnold?

All of this fog was really getting to me…it was just a fisherman hoping for some of the Atlantic Cod.

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Cuttyhunk Monument

Address: West End, Cuttyhunk, Massachusetts
Hours: 24 hours, daily and depending on the tides
Admission: free

The Little Church On the Hill

When you gotta pray, you gotta pray.

Most people of faith pray every day and most seek out the comfort of participating in a church service at least once a week, even when on vacation!

Just two doors down from my friend’s island home, is the Cuttyhunk Church. A small, simple structure, it always captured my attention when I walked by in the direction of the dock, the post office, the beach or where ever I was headed.

Never had I seen the door open and I wasn’t sure if visitors were welcomed outside of worship hours.

One day, after a trek to the west end of the island, my friend and I were returning home. Kathie, knowing my love of churches, glanced over at the now open door and suggested we take a look inside.

Built in 1881, the church is known as the United Methodist Church of Cuttyhunk. The church, however, is an interfaith church with Episcopal, Roman Catholic and inter-faith services led by worship leaders from different religious traditions. Only open during the busiest months of the year, July and August, when visits to the island are at its peak, the church bell calls the parishioners fifteen minutes before each Sunday service and can be heard throughout the island.

The church is also used by a variety of religious and community groups for various events, including weddings, baptisms, memorial services, AA and Al-Anon, the Cuttyhunk Historical Society, the Cruisers Community Chorus and other island events.

The interior was intimate and comforting with a pressed tin ceiling and walls and simple wooden benches spanning the width of the building. There are two beautiful shell mosaics designed by artist Manuel Sarmento, depicting the Madonna and St. Francis of Assisi in the front of the sanctuary. The simple crucifix hanging above the altar is made of brass and driftwood and was crafted by Wally Ketchum. What I loved the most, however, was the brightly colored stained glass panel situated above the doorway which embodies the fishing culture of the island.

As we wandered around the rear of the church, I noticed a small basket of clam shells with bright blue writing inside the curved portion of some of the shells. As I studied the framed printout, next to the basket, I learned that these shells are for recording prayer requests. At the end of the season, church volunteers set these shells afloat, encircled by island flowers with the belief that casting flowers into the nearby waters on departure assures one’s return and the answer to their petition. The next day, it was no surprise when Kathie plucked a bloom from one of her hibiscus bushes for me to toss into the waters from the ferry as I left the island.

Hopefully, this action will allow me to return to Cuttyhunk during the summer season and attend one of these church services!

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Cuttyhunk Methodist Church

http://www.cuttyhunkchurch.org/history.html
Address: 1 Broadway Cuttyhunk MA 02713
Services and Events: Thursdays (Summer Season), 1100, an hour of discussion and medition, 1930, Bible Study, 1830 Kids Movie Night. Sunday Services begin on the Sunday before the Fourth of July until Labor Day weekend. 0830, Episcopal Eucharist, 0930, Sunday School, 1030, Roman Catholic Mass, 1945, Hymn Sing, 2000, Evening Worship.
Contact information: For weddings and special gatherings, contact a church volunteer at 781-834-9552 or email puddingstone@live.com
Admission: free