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For my birthday, I wanted one thing.
A new stamp in my passport.
Well…actually…two things.
A new stamp in my passport and a check on my bucket list.
Jumping on a flight to Panama, I was excited that I was able to give myself these two outstanding presents.
After a late night arrival and a sliver of sleep, we were up early and in a cab bound for the Panama Canal. Having always desired to visit the Canal, I was extremely excited to be headed to the Visitor’s Center at Miraflores.
Once our entrance fee was paid, we were directed upstairs to the upper observation terrace. As we exited the doors onto the pavilion, luck would have it that a ship was passing through the locks!
Crowds were gathered along the rail and securing a place for optimum viewing was challenging. Nevertheless, we were able to watch the mules guiding the Atacama Queen through the lock while deckhands waved to everyone on land. As the gates opened and more than 26 million gallons of the waters filled the space, the ship rose upward. As the waters leveled, the ship moved from one lock to the other. Amazingly, the gates seemed infinitely small compared to the huge ship towering above them.
After the final lock, the Atacama Queen sailed off under the Centennial Bridge and into Lake Miraflores for the next phase of its journey.
As the crowd dispersed, another ship was passing through one of the distant locks, however, we hung around waiting for the next ship to pass through the main lock. Sadly, that ship never came.
So, off we went to explore other parts of the Visitor Center. On the ground floor, we watched a film on the construction of this immense undertaking. Multiple showings are presented throughout the day in both Spanish and English and it is a great way to start your exploration of the Canal.
Moving on, we made our way through each of the exhibition halls.
The History Hall offered background information on the technological innovations and sanitary initiatives in conjunction with the construction of the Canal. The hall also pays tribute to the hundreds of men and women who made this achievement possible.
The Hall of Water: Source of Life highlights the importance of water, the conservation of the environment and biodiversity, protection of the Canal Watershed and the commitment to the sustainable management of resources.
Operation of the Canal is spotlighted in The Canal in Action. Here you can experience what it is like to guide a boat through a lock culvert in one of the navigation simulators. Canal improvement, modernization and maintenance projects are also the focus of this exhibit.
Information on the importance of the Canal to world trade is the center of the information presented in The Canal in the World. Descriptions of the trade routes served by the Canal and its main users, the vessels that transit the waterway and the commodities they carry and the future competitiveness of the Canal and how the Republic of Panama will benefit can be learned about here.
After our tour of the exhibition halls was complete, we stepped out on the two lower observation terraces for a more intimate look at the now-empty lock and the picturesque, white-washed building resting on the other side of the canal. On the second floor, we discovered stadium seating…seating I wish we had known about as the Atacama passed through earlier. Looking off into the distance, we scoured the horizon, hoping for another freighter or even a cruise ship.
Finally, we acknowledged that it could be hours before another ship graced us with its presence. That’s how it goes at the Panama Canal…no set schedule.
All in all, were thankful that we arrived when we did, and were able to experience the Panama Canal operating as it was intended.
Though not wrapped up in a bow, I have to say…the Panama Canal was a pretty spectacular birthday present!
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Miraflores Visitor Center
- http://www.pancanal.com/eng/acp/cvm/
- Address: Miraflores, Panama City, Panama
- Hours: 0900 to 1630, daily.
- Admission: Non-resident Adults, $15.00, Non-resident Children (ages 6-12), $10.00. Nationals and Resident Adults, $3.00, Nationals and Resident Seniors, $1.50, Nationals and Resident Students and Children (ages 6-12), $2.00.
- Getting There: From the city center, cab fare is approximately $10-$12.
“No thanks.” We opted to wait.
One of the selling points of this tour was how muddy everyone was going to get…it was recommended that you not do the tour if you can’t give yourself to the idea of being covered in muck! They went on to elaborate on how refreshing the cave swim would be after the spattered adventure. I guess it hadn’t rained in a while, because the only mud puddles I saw were near the shower area at the starting point. The real problem was the dust. Bandannas or something to cover your nose and mouth was recommended (they even sell them if you forget), but what you really need are goggles. As a contact lens wearer, I spent most of the ride squinting as I tried to keep the dust of my eyes or wiping the tears flowing down my cheeks from the pain of the dust abrading my cornea under my lenses. Thankfully, I had relinquished all driving rights to my oldest son.
Once the presentation was complete, more driving ensued until we arrived at the part of the tour that promised a swim in a picturesque cave. A large grouping of buildings hawking food and souvenirs lined either side of the stairs to the cave and many buggies were parked here. By the different types of vehicles, it was quite evident that many different companies come to this location.
As we approached the stairway, we were taken aback by how many other people were trying to make their way to the cave. Finally reaching the entry to the small body of water, we noticed that people were being instructed to jump into the cool water and immediately make their way to the guide rope leading to the water’s exit.
Let’s just say, I’m glad I stayed out of the water and kept an eye on the boys’ belongings. That was really not worth getting wet.
Finally, noticing our guide’s summons, we reluctantly toweled off and jumped back into our buggies. Crossing the highway once again, we made our way back to the companies headquarters.
While it was nice to be able to enjoy a different aspect of Punta Cana, there are many other companies which offer Buggy adventures. Our dune buggies were in poor working order, seatbelts not connected, bald tires and buggies being hot-wired in order to start them. While parked at the cave location, I was able to inspect other company’s vehicles and while in short supply, there were others in much better condition. Still, while I was happy to venture out from our resort for a while, I would think twice about partaking in this type of adventure.
The wind was whipping and the temperature had plummeted as we stepped from the comfort of our car. From our altitudinous vantage point and through the fast-moving clouds, we caught our first glimpses of the beautiful Lagoa do Fogo.
Although we later learned that an 11 km hike, including a trail around the lake, was an option many serious nature enthusiasts choose, the one available here was a much shorter choice…only 4 km. Thankfully, we were somewhat prepared for the weather and the trails and we decided to tackle the task of a muddy, descent to the lake.
The sandy shores of the lake were a welcome respite from the precipitous slopes of the cliffs of the caldera and we spent some time enjoying the clear waters and stunning scenery. Even a little rain didn’t dampen our spirits, only the trail on the way up.
After the long, arduous climb back to the summit, some much needed water and a quick study of the map, it was decided that continuing on to the eastern coast would have to wait until another trip. It was a pity as there were some amazing things that I wanted to see along the way…Our Lady of Peace Chapel and the Lighthouse Arnel. We were quite hungry and decided to head back toward Ponta Delgada and its unique pineapple plantations.
After such a long growing period, it suddenly became clear why these organic pineapples were so expensive the in the San Miguel grocery stores!
Heading back to the harbor, we decided to take a walk around Ponta Delgada. Not wanting our visit to end, we meandered down many of the streets we had missed on our first afternoon in the town, admiring the architecture, and artwork…even taking a visit to the extensive shopping area which extends into the harbor.
As concerned as I was about the cows (I was warned that they tend to jump in front of cars! Hmm…yes, that was what I was told…), I was far more interested in the amazing scenic overlooks every few miles and the beautiful hydrangeas that lined the roadways.
Continuing onward, we soon found ourselves at the Miradouro da Vista do Rei, an overlook with views of Sete Cidades, the three mile wide caldera and its green and blue-hued lakes. According to legend, these lakes were formed from the tears of a shepherd and a princess who shared a forbidden love.
There is a parking area at the fork in the road with many trails leading into the crater. There is also an intriguing abandoned hotel located here which reminded me of a setting from a horror movie. Though it is now enclosed by a wall to keep intruders out, the wall is not high enough if you are really determined to see the rotting remains up close.
Continuing our journey, we soon found ourselves in Mosteiros, a seaside town on the northwest coast of San Miguel. Looking more like a Hawaiian postcard, this area boasts cliffs, rock formations, a black sand beach and blue water and is a great place to relax for a while. The waters are quite rough and more conducive to surfing than swimming but lifeguards were there to kee watch.
Rounding the northwest corner of the island, we drove through Bretanha, Remédios, Santa Bárbara, Santo António and Capelas, stopping to admire each overlook and the occasional church.
After a quick lunch in Ribeira Grande, we headed south. Our destination was Lagoa de Fogo, yet, we somehow ended up in Furnas. Furnas was on our itinerary for the next day, but we decided to alter our plans and take a look around a bit early.
Upon Canto’s death, he was laid to rest here beside his wife.
The chapel can be viewed from the path alongside the lake but you can also pay 3 euro to enter the José do Canto Forest Garden where you can inspect the chapel up close. The garden has nice trails, one of which leads to a high, narrow waterfall and many of the trees from around the world are labeled and includes a giant sequoia.
Upon your entry from the parking lot, make sure to pay attention to the Garden of Lagoa das Furnas on your left for the figures carved into the trees…it is also a great spot to have a picnic.
Despite my usual attention to detail, I found myself a bit unprepared for this trip, driving out of the airport rental car lot with only a vague map snagged from the rental car company.
Our hotel was easy to find on the harbor in Ponta Delgada, however, our room would not be ready until later that morning. Driving past, we headed east, following the rugged coastline, interspersed with black sand beaches and sapphire waters. Finding ourselves in Lagoa, we marveled at the colorful homes and businesses lining the narrow cobblestone streets and the white stone churches that seemed to be everywhere! It truly seemed that we were in Italy, not Portugal!
Driving through Saõ Roque I spied a beautiful church along the coast. Igreja de Saõ Roque is the main parochial church of the area and includes the Chapel of the Holies, an altar of immense value and decorated in hand-painted azulejo tile. It is also known as the burial place for the grandmother of the Marquês e Pombal.
Re-mastering my little stick-shift (which I had not driven in about 25 years), we cruised along the narrow lanes and sometimes highways, heading wherever…we had no plan in that moment.
Finally, heading back into Ponta Delgada, it was time for check-in and a much needed shower and nap.
Strolling along the main street, we dodged the occasional rain shower, peering into the shops and restaurants and hoping that the dark skies would not open up. Our destination, Fort de Saõ Bras de Ponta Delgada, was situated on the outskirts of the city and I was anxious to spend some time walking along the ramparts and admiring the harbor views.
Constructed in the 17th century, the Renaissance fort’s purpose was to defend the area against pirate raids as well as the Spaniards and the French. During both World Wars, the fort secured the safety of Allied shipping and today acts as a base for the Portuguese navy as well as housing a military museum.
Across the main road, we found the church of Saõ José. Looking like a typical Portuguese church from the outside, it offers a feast for the eyes on the interior. In the early 1500’s the Franciscan Friars built a convent in the location. Construction of the church was began in 1709 and showcases three naves and three chapels, including the Chapels of the Lord of the Thirds and Our Lady of Sorrows. Decorated with rich gilded woodwork, it also features important 18th century blue and white tiles and jacaranda appointments.
Another church, in the adjacent square is Igreja do Santo Cristo. Also exhibiting a beautifully gilded interior, this one threw me for a loop. As I positioned myself discreetly to photograph the altar, I noticed the door opening and a gentleman crawling on hand and knee into the church. Making his way to the rear of the building, he remained prostrate before a gated area. Many after him, came to the gated area and knelt for extended periods of time. Waiting patiently for a spot to open on one of the benches facing the bars, I finally made my way there and took a seat.
I was intrigued…what significance did this church have? After doing a bit of research later that evening, I learned that this chapel houses Senhor Santo Cristo dos Milagres, the wooden image of Christ which represents the Jesus of Nazareth as he was presented to the crowd wearing a crown of thorns on his head and with his bruised, beaten, whipped torso exposed. Created by an unknown artist, the statue is on display here in the church and is used to lead a procession through the city during the city for the festival honoring the Lord Holy Christ of the Miracles on the fifth Sunday after Easter and lasting until Thursday of the Ascension.
The interior was lavishly decorated with carved cedar and other exotic woods and the opulently carved altar and choir stalls guided me around the structure. As I made my way around the church, I was drawn to the age-old paintings from the 17th and 18th centuries, the elegant jacaranda furniture, the glazed tiles and the colorful images of the saints etched onto the windows. In the sacristy, an immensely valuable collection of gold-embroidered liturgical vestments can viewed.
Continuing on, we made our way through the cobblestone streets made of volcanic rock, admiring the beautiful patterns that led the way. So many things diverted our attention…musicians, shops displaying Azorian wares, people spread out in the promenades enjoying the lovely afternoon.
A good night’s rest was definitely needed…tomorrow was to be a day filled with more exploration of this unique and beautiful island.
After paying my admission, I donned my audio guide earphones and entered the the first stop on the tour, the Sermon church.
The chancel takes center stage and my eye was initially drawn to it as it sits high above the congregation and is surrounded by glass paintings representing the Nativity, the Crucifixion and the Resurrection. The altar, made of white marble and onyx presides before the gilded Apostles’ Screen designed by Friedrich Schinkel. The beautifully carved pulpit to the left of the chancel is also particularly noteworthy.
Turning to the left side of the church, the great Sauer organ was galvanizing with its massive size and artistry. Installed during the building’s construction, it is the largest preserved organ in its original state and is considered to be the largest in Germany with 7269 pipes and 113 registers.
Venturing outside of the Sermon church’s main area, I took notice of the crypts located under the organ gallery. Though there are many others within the cathedral, these are the burial sites of Kurfürster Friedrich Wilhelm, Elector of Brandenburg, his wife Kurfürstin Dorothea, German Emperor, Friedrich III and Kurfürster Johann Cicero, Elector of Brandenburg.
Opposite the organ gallery, I ventured into the Baptismal and Matrimonial Church. The entrance, flanked by ornate sarcophagi and created by sculptor Andreas Schlüter, led to a barrel vaulted church. This more intimate space, was adorned by an altarpiece, The Outpouring Of The Holy Spirit, considered to be one of the most significant pieces of artwork in the cathedral and an organ built by the Potsdam company Alexander Schuke, the first to be built after the Second World War.
Heading upward on the Imperial Staircase, I walked slowly, inspecting the multicolored marble and the stone from the Lahn region used in construction as well as the unique candelabra and ceiling crowns. Adorning the ceilings and wall spaces are paintings displaying stories from the life of Jesus Christ and parables. Take note of the “Nazareth” painting hanging opposite the staircase. The original, by Albert Hertel, was lost during the war, however, this reconstruction was painted by Brandenburg restorer and painter Ekkehard Koch.
On the upper level, there is a museum which offers an architectural history on the cathedral with large scale models of wood and plaster. Many of these show some of the original designs by Friedrich Stüler, which were never realized.
Heading higher…270 steps…I was able to lay my eyes on some of the best views of Berlin from the dome. Fascinating statues lined the wide balustrade and I could see famous landmarks such as City Hall, the Humboldt Forum, Museum Island and the television tower.
My final stop was on the lower level of the cathedral, which is the burial place of the Hohenzollern dynasty who ruled Prussian since the Middle Ages and the German Empire from 1871 until 1918. Though the most important kings and emperors are buried near their favorite castles in Berlin, the immense space is lined with beautifully carved tombs and statues from the influential family.
My visit completed, I made my way from the cathedral back into Lustgarten Park. Facing the building, I stopped and gazed up at the domes, my eyes drawn to the spot where I had stood just before. Equally impressive from the outside and the inside, the Berliner Dom is one of the most stunning churches I have visited. An amazing place of history and architecture, it ranks high on the lists of attractions in the once divided city. It now acts as a place which brings people together…a place of worship and a place of tourism.
One of the most decorative churches in Portugal, the monastery was built on the site of the church dedicated to Santa Maria de Belém on the harbor of Praia do Restelo. Monks of the military-religious Order of Christ resided here at the time and provided assistance to seafarers in transit.
The Monastery of Jerónimos is one of the most visited landmarks in Lisbon and tourists should be aware of long waits to enter…I had no idea. Fortunately, as I took my place in line, I was informed by a passerby that I could enter the Archaeological Museum next door, purchase my ticket there and skip the line. Of course, I was a bit skeptical…if I left my place in line and what I was told was inaccurate, it would be back to the end of the line again. Thankfully, they were correct. I waited for ten minutes, purchased my ticket and walked past everyone who had been in front of me and was still waiting in the warm afternoon temperatures.
You will also encounter some of the remains of important figures in Portuguese history, including presidents Teófilo Braga and Oscar Carmona, playwright, Almeida Garrett and modern poet Fernando Pessoa.
The Church of Santa Maria de Belém, in the monastery, does not need a ticket to enter and is truly the highlight of the monastery. Access to the upper level choir loft is from the monastery, so be sure not to miss it. Take in the view of the church from above before heading downstairs. Of particular interest is the crucifix, the beautiful paintings and the carved choir seating all bathed in the subtle light streaming in from the rose window.
As I entered the church’s lower lever, my senses were truly overloaded as I was not sure where to set my gaze. Entering from the side portal, I first encountered the tombs of Vasco da Gama and Luís de Camões which are located in the lower choir. These magnificent tombs, designed by sculptor Costa Mota can be admired from all angles and both offer extreme detail. The baptismal chapel is also located near the side doors as well as the exquisite Altar Dourado. Along the north wall are beautiful confessionals and large stained glass windows decorate the space, allowing alluring filtered light to enter.
As I walked around the church and marveled at the amazing details that decorated every niche, every column and every arch, I encountered the remains of Cardinal-King Dom Henrique and the children of Manuel I as well as the tomb of King Sebastião and the descendants of King João III.
Overall, my visited lasted just over an hour and I was touched by the artistry and grandeur of this amazing place.
As I entered the fortress-like facade, with its two large clock towers and massive solid walls, I ran my hand over the large wooden doors passing through into the interior. The first thing I noticed, however, was how dark the cathedral appeared. Though the second story of the ambulatory has a series of windows and the narrow windows of the lateral aisles allow light to enter, the church appeared to be much more gloomy than others I have visited.
Dodging other visitors, we made our way toward the front of the church admiring the rose window in the West facade and the interesting barrel vaulting of the nave.
Especially interesting were the chapels, one especially enclosed by a Romanesque gate. Others include a funerary chapel, near the entrance of the cathedral, built by wealthy merchant Bartolomeu Joanes in the 14th century which still contains his tomb with his laying figure inside.
At the end of the 13th century, King Dinis of Portugal ordered the construction of a Gothic-style cloister. The cloister was damaged, along with many chapels and the royal pantheon during the earthquake of 1755. Since renovated, the cloisters can be visited today, however, when we visited, it was Sunday and they had not yet opened for the afternoon. I was truly disappointed as I understand, the tile work is simply amazing and it offers some of the most beautiful architecture in the city. Additionally, we were not able to visit the Treasury as it is also closed on Sunday.
Approaching the vertical structure from the rear, I gazed up at the walkway connecting the tower to Largo do Carmo, catching a glimpse of those traversing the walkway and others peeking out over the edge of the observation decks. The iron structure, with its neo-gothic arches and geometric patterns, is truly remarkable to see up close, towering seven stories with its four vertical columns, each composed of two pillars. And if you think there is some semblance to the Eiffel Tower, you would be correct. Roberto Arménio was, indeed, a former student of civil engineer and architect, Gustave Eiffel!
Exiting the elevator, I stepped out on the platform and made my way around the structure.
