museum – Page 3 – Snapping The Globe

The Ghosts of Gettysburg

As a believer in the paranormal, some of my favorite television shows are about ghosts!

The ones pertaining to ghost hunting captivate my interest because these paranormal researchers visit some of the most haunted places in the world and the United States. One Saturday night, I remember watching an episode which highlighted Gettysburg Battlefield and the apparitions that inhabit the once bloody battlefields. I was intrigued! Knowing that Gettysburg was only a few hours away, I vowed to take a road trip one day.

Many years passed and there never seemed to be enough time to squeeze that trip in between my work and personal travels. I had been all over the world…Greece, Vietnam, Paris…you name it…but I had yet to fulfill this one seemingly small visit to the nearby state.

This year, amidst the Covid 19 restrictions, I found myself with more spare time than I could have ever imagined. Because I could not get to my job easily, I was forced to take a leave for a few months. At first, it was quite difficult to be home so much more than I was accustomed. Nothing was open, so I found myself quite bored. Eventually, however, things began to reopen and I decided that even if I couldn’t travel with my job to the international places that I was used to, I could still try and visit the many attractions in my state and the ones nearby.

One day, I packed my suitcase and decided that it was the day…the day to finally visit Gettysburg and maybe some of its ghosts!

After a quick visit to the national park website, I gathered the information needed for a successful trip, arrived in record time and checked into my hotel. Deciding to purchases tickets to explore the visitor’s center, which I felt was a necessity, I then elected to skip the tour bus (and crowds), download the Gettysburg Battle Auto Tour and do it myself!

Arriving at the opening time, I said hello to a “socially distancing” Abe Lincoln and made my way through the Visitor’s Center, taking my place in line for my time slot for the film, A New Birth of Freedom. Along with the Gettysburg Museum of the Civil War, the film and the museum’s exhibits gave me the background of the events that led to the brutal three-day Battle of Gettysburg, fought between the Union and Confederate soldiers in June 1863. A major turning point in the Civil War, this battle saw more than 51,000 Americans killed, wounded or missing, most under General Robert E. Lee’s command. The museum contained a great deal of information of events that led up to the war, the war itself and the conditions that dictated the soldier’s lives. There were old photographs, soldiers’ uniforms, musical instruments ammunitions, letters, flags and a tribute to the ones that gave their lives for the cause that they believed in. Protected under glass, I spotted letters from Abraham Lincoln and headlines from his death in 1865. One of the most interesting exhibits, however, were the wooden ceiling joists taken from Gettysburg resident, John Forney’s farm. Hanging above our heads, you could see where a single artillery projectile pierced what once supported his house.

Though I was not sure what the Cyclorama would entail, after the film, I followed the crowds up the escalators to the upper level. The 360 degree painting, by artist Paul Philippoteaux, that surrounded us, depicted Pickett’s Charge, the Confederate attack on the Union forces on July 3, 1863. Once the equivalent of an IMAX theater, the life sized painting, which took over a year and a half to complete, was originally displayed with numerous artifacts and sculptures, including stone walls, trees and fences. It was quite the spectacle as I made my way around the circular room and inspected the magnificent painting as the light changed and each section seemed to take on a life of its own.

Once I had made my way back to the lower level, I quickly stopped at the Information Counter, received a map and some helpful advice on how best to tackle the vast expanses of the battlefield.

Finally in my car, I took a quick glance at the directions, turned on my Auto Tour and headed out to the first part of the battlefield in the northern part of the city, that of McPherson Ridge, where the Battle of Gettysburg began. Though I have visited many battlefields in Virginia, I wasn’t sure what differentiated Gettysburg from these combat zones. For starters, as I turned onto Reynolds Avenue, I discovered what it was…monuments, memorials, markers and plaques that commemorate and memorialize the men who fought and died during this important battle. Including the state monuments, this constitutes one of the largest collections of outdoor sculpture in the world.

Wanting to experience it all, I initially stopped at every monument, memorial, marker and plaque. An hour into my journey, however, I learned that if I wanted to finish the entire drive, I would have to step it up.

There were many locations that I stopped along the way to get a closer look including the Eternal Light Peace Memorial, the North Carolina, Virginia and Pennsylvania Memorials, General James Longstreet’s Monument, Brigadier General Strong Vincent Memorial, Little Round Top (the site of an unsuccessful assault by Confederate troop against the Union) and the monuments located on this hilltop. I learned that Devil’s Den, located below Little Round Top, with its huge boulders, is a popular place for visitors to stretch their legs and sometimes after dark, scour the areas around for ghosts!

There were many historical farms, with their buildings still proudly gracing various areas of the battlefield, including the farms of George Weikert, Abraham Trostle, John and Mary Wentz, the Sherfy Family, the Spanglers and the Klingles. I even discovered the home of our 34th president, Dwight D. Eisenhower.

*The Home of President Dwight D. Eisenhower*

Countless cannons dotted the landscape as well as other items used by the troops, including wagons. There was so much still to see as I neared the National Cemetery and the rain began to fall, dampening my efforts.

Finally, I made my way to the area that included Spangler’s Spring, which still exhibits its original source of drinking water and Cemetery Hill, the keystone of the Union position at Gettysburg. These were important landmarks where major assaults took place towards the end of the battle.

Such a distinctive and monumental place, the Battlefields of Gettysburg was one of the most informative, yet moving locations that I have ever set foot on. It is quite hard to imagine what partaking in those three days was like; the anticipation, the combat, the aftermath. So much effort was expended. You can still definitely feel the spirit of the souls that fought and perished here.

So, did I see any ghosts?

After a long day driving the entire battlefield, my efforts ended with the arrival of a huge thunderstorm. The lightening strikes eerily sounded like cannon fire and as I glanced out of my hotel window at the darkened skies lighting up intermittently, I decided that if I wanted to see ghosts, it wasn’t going to be on the battlefield that night.

Maybe if I had had a partner to egg me on, I might have considered driving the battlefield under the cover of night.. Or maybe, I would have had the forethought to book a room at the Comfort Suites. These rooms overlooked the Evergreen Cemetery and was adjacent to the Soldier’s National Cemetery. Certainly, they must see their share of paranormal activity just outside the hotel! This leaves me to wonder if they book extra for the rooms with a “view”!

Next time, I definitely know where I am staying!

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Gettysburg National Military Park

https://www.nps.gov/gett/planyourvisit/visitorcenters.htm
Address: 1195 Baltimore Pike, Gettysburg, PA 17325
Hours: Visitor’s Center, April 1-November 30, 0900-1600. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday. December 1-March 31, pending pandemic conditions. Park Grounds and Roads, April 1-October 31, 0600-1000 daily, November 1-March 31, 0600-1900, daily.
Admission: There is no fee to enter the Visitor’s Center. Ticket with timed admission for the film A New Birth of Freedom, Cyclorama Painting and the Gettysburg Museum of the Civil War, Adults (ages 13+), $15.00, Seniors (65+), $14.00, Active Duty U.S. Military Personnel, free, AAA Discount, $14.00, Youth (ages 6-12), $10.00, Children (ages 5 and under), free. For access to the Gettysburg Museum of the Civil War only, Adults, (ages 13+), $9.00, Youth (ages 6-12), $7.00
Battlefield Tours: By car with licensed tour guide, 1-6 people per vehicle, $75.00, 7-15 people per vehicle, $100.00, 16+ people per vehicle, $150.00. By bus with licensed tour guide, Adults (age 13+), $35.00, Youth (ages 6-12), $21.00, Children (5 and under), free

Hoofing It Thru Havana

Especial del dia…pollo con queso en trigo.

As I sat in the sanwicheria, eating my chicken and cheese sandwich, I contemplated how to tackle parts of the city which I had not seen that day or on my previous day’s ventures.

Should I make my way to the waterside area bordering Avenue del Puerto for its many museums and churches, venture out to the Malecon’s architectural wonders and take in the fresh sea air or head south to the Almacenes San Jose Artisans’ Market to seek out some exclusive treasures?

Finally deciding to head north, I made my way along the narrow, dusty streets stopping to capture the captivating architecture and scenes of daily life on my camera. What fascinated me most, however, were the small markets and the carnicerias…not for what they offered or for their appearances, but how locals were required to stand outside in long lines to purchase products. I was a bit confused with the markets, especially, as people stood with their noses pressed against the windows while shopkeepers unlocked the door and allowed one person inside at irregular intervals. After speaking with my host, I learned that purchases are regulated by the government and it is sometimes difficult for locals to obtain necessities. Thankfully, drinks (beer, water and soda) and food were provided by my host and charged to my account, so I never had to figure out how to gain admission into these exchanges.

Continuing on, I decided to conquer the northern part of the city, starting with the Museum of the Revolution. After paying my admission and checking my backpack in the baggage room, I made my through the former Presidential Palace, which dates back to the initiation of its construction in 1913. The awe-inspiring building was decorated by Tiffany’s of New York, contains a jaw-dropping double staircase and many exquisite rooms including the Salón de los Espejos (Hall of Mirrors), which resembles the room in the Palace of Versailles, the Salón Dorado, used for banquets and decorated in Louis XVI style, the Despacho Presidencial, the President’s office where Fidel Castro was sworn in in 1959 and the chapel with its Tiffany chandelier.

*Salón de los Espejos* (*Hall of Mirrors*)

Though I was originally unaware of Cuba’s history, especially during the revolutionary period, the displays, though mostly captioned in Spanish, contain much documentation and photographic evidence of Batista’s overthrow and a somewhat skewed view of Castro’s seizure of power. There is a large array of artifacts, clothing (including blood-stained and bullet riddled uniforms), letters, documents, weapons and newspapers. If you look carefully or have a guide point it out to you, you can spy the bullet holes in the walls, near the staircase, from the students’ attempt at overthrowing the government in 1957.

In the rear of the building you can find the Granma, the vessel that brought Castro, Guevara and eighty-two others to Cuba in 1956 with the purpose of overthrowing the regime of Fulgencio Batista. Due to preservation purposes, be warned, the ship is partly obscured by the surrounding glass and continuously guarded. There are other vehicles associated with the revolution surrounding the pavilion, including planes, rockets and an old postal van that was used as a getaway car during the 1957 attack. In the courtyard and throughout the museum, there were many art pieces by Kamyl Bullaudy Rodriguez.

*Sculpture by Kamyl Bullaudy Rodriguez.*

In addition to seeing many other tourists within the museum, I was a bit taken aback to find many locals as well. I later learned, however, the museum was designed primarily to help Cubans understand their own history.

Exiting the museum, I stopped to take a look at the fragment of the former city wall and the SAU-100 tank used by Castro during the 1961 Bay of Pigs battle. Just beyond these landmarks, I made my way through the Plaza Trece de Marzo, passing the statue of patriot José Marti on horseback, a gift from U.S. donors through a fund initiated by the Bronx Museum of the Arts. The original bronze statue of Marti on horseback, by equine sculptor Anna Hyatt Huntington (from which this was modeled) can be seen in New York’s Central Park.

Walking a ways on the Paseo de Marti, again, I was in awe of the architectural gems. Although some were a shadow of their former selves, you could see the artistry that still prevails. This must have been a beautiful place to walk in its heyday and today is still a nice place to stroll with its colorfully, tiled walkways, large shade trees and dedicated effigies.

Crossing the traffic circle near the Spanish embassy, I walked up to the monument that we had passed earlier in the day during my tour…that of General Maximo Gomez, a commander in the wars for independence. The statue is well maintained and frequented by youngsters who used the wide open area to skate.

As the breeze from the Bay of Havana beckoned me toward the water, I found myself at the Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta, one of the four historic forts that defended Port Havana. Built more than 400 years ago, San Salvador de la Punta Castle is also one of the three fortresses that appear on the Cuban coat of arms.

Castle La Punta and Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro, the fort I had visited on my tour earlier during the day, were both built on either sides of the channel’s entry. For centuries, a chain barrier was stretched across the canal to prevent access into the port. If this did not deter marauders, pirates and anyone else with ill-intent, there were many large cannons pointed toward the water.

Today, the castle’s moat is no longer functional and the castle no longer serves in its original capacity. Renovated in 2002, to restore it to its original historic appearance, its interior houses the Castle Museum. There are several rooms that inform about the castle’s history and construction, displays of naval models, various objects from sunken Spanish fleets and information about underwater archeology and the slave trade. Intricate models of other castles in Spain, Italy and Cuba can be found on the lower level and many cannons and artillery can be found on the upper level. Don’t plan on asking for any assistance, the staff has other things to do during the mid-day hours! Can anyone say siesta?

After taking in the castle’s interior, make sure to walk around the promenade that surrounds the castle. Here, you can check out dedications to other castles, statues, cannons and fantastic views of the channel, Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro, La Cabana and the Malecón. Take a moment to cross back over the roadway to check out the Monument to the Eight Medical Students, a Greek-style temple, built in 1890, in memory of the students executed in the city in 1871, who were accused of violating the grave of a Spanish journalist and the Real Carcel de La Habana, the remains of a 19th century jail where political figures were incarcerated.

*Monument to the Eight Medical Students*

At the beginning of my afternoon, one of the options I considered was making my way along the waterway on the Avenue Del Puerto. I had already seen so much of Havana and there was still so much on my agenda, especially in this area. It was hard to believe I had already seen so many interesting places.

With the walkway bordering the channel nearby, I decided that that would be my general direction. Sunset was many hours away, leaving me with ample time to continue my explorations…what else would I find in this beautiful, old city?

To be continued…

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Museo de Revolucion

Address: Calle Refugio 1 entre Monserrate y Zulueta, Havana 10600 Cuba
Hours: 0930-1600, daily
Admission: Adult Nationals, $8 CUC ($8 US), Under 12 years, free. Adults, International, $10 CUC ($10 US) Guided tours, $2 ($2 US), only available in Spanish. Ticket office open from 0930-1600.

Plaza 13 de Marzo and Statue of José Marti

Address: Agramonte (y Genios), Havana, La Habana, Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Monument to General Maximo Gomez

Address: Av. del Puerto Calle Desamparado/San Pedro, Havana Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Castillo de San Salvador de la Punta

Address: Paseo de Marti Prado y Av. del Puerto, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0900-1700, Wednesday to Sunday
Admission: $6 CUC ($6 US)

Monument to the Eight Medical Students

Address: 4JWR+4W, Havana, Cuba
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Nothing But Torture

When you are on a romantic weekend with your spouse, visiting a Torture Museum is not what one normally thinks of…unless maybe you are Christian Grey.

So maybe those with certain fetishes might enjoy this kind of setting or if you are upset with your spouse and searching for ways to make him suffer for not mowing the lawn, it might be of interest.

Seriously though, crazy experiences shared together are what you look back on and laugh at later!

As my husband and I were investigating the streets of Bruges, we happened upon this museum. Though it wasn’t high on my list of things to see, we ultimately decided that it might be thought-provoking.

The Torture Museum, located in a former fortress designed to protect Bruges, later became one of the oldest historical European prisons. During the 14th century, it became known as the “Old Stone” or “Oude Steen”.

The museum is a chronological maze of more than 100 torture devices, often displayed with realistic wax figures. As we made our way from the opening act, Vlad the Impaler, with a head firmly planted on the top of a spear, to various contraptions such as the Rack, the Cat’s Paw and the Drunkard’s Cloak, it was obvious that committing crimes, even petty ones, during medieval times, was something to ponder seriously as the punishments were so severe. These instruments were engineered to cause unbelievable humiliation, pain and suffering on the human body and mind.

Many of these devices we recognized from books and television shows but some were new. The method of peine forte et dure (hard and forceful punishment) was a form of torture which inflicted punishment on those accused of a felony, but who would neither plead guilty or not guilty. The accused was placed under a board upon which heavier and heavier stones were arranged until either a plea was entered or the defendant died from suffocation.

The Heretic’s Fork was an abominable tool resembling a two-way steel fork with sharp spikes that was attached by a leather belt to the victim’s neck. It was often used for charges of heresy and witchcraft. Just thinking about moving your chin…ouch!

Another that I though quite interesting, and not so gruesome, was the Straw Plait. A heavy plait of hair, that was braided from straw, was woven into the hair of a woman for offences that referred to feminine dignity, such as low necklines or seductive gaits. Though not a severe punishment, it is imaginable that this heavy addition to the head would prove to be cumbersome.

The Violin Gossip gave me a good laugh as I imagined two quarreling women secured into this contraption, facing each other and unable to escape each’s presence. This was an instrument used often to punish gossipers and to settle quarrels.

And of course, there was the guillotine, ever ready with a woven basket awaiting a bloody addition and a variety of other tools and executioner’s outfits. The most horrific, in my opinion, was Rat Torture. Though I have seen this depicted in horror and gangster movies, to see a wax figure in a former dungeon portraying this form of torture is disturbing to say the least. For those who do not know what this cheap and effective torment entails, let me describe it for you. Imagine the victim completely restrained and tied to the ground or another surface. A rat is then placed on their stomach and covered by a metallic container. As the container is heated, the rat then begins to look for a way out. Since the container is too hard to dig through…well…

Wandering through this former prison, though gruesome at times, was a dark journey through time when torture was a widespread form of punishment. One of the most intriguing museums that we have ever visited, we learned a great deal about the discipline and persecution experienced from the 13th to 18th centuries.

And no, there wasn’t anything that I thought would be suitable to use as punishment for my husband making me angry!

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Torture Museum Bruges “Oude Steen”

http://torturemuseum.be/
Address: Wollestraat 29, 8000 Brugge, Belgium
Hours: 1030-1800, daily. Open until 2100 during July and August
Admission: Adults, €8, Students, €6, Seniors (aged 60+), €7, Groups, €6

The Bread House

Standing tall in the Grand Place of Brussels, there are two grandiose buildings facing each other that set the tone for the city’s majestic square.

Each is so intricate and beautiful, and I have captured both photographically many times. If you had asked me prior to my last trip, if I knew what each was, however, I would honestly have had to say absolutely not!

On one side, you have Brussels’ City Hall and on the other side is the Broodhuis (Bread House), a UNESCO World Heritage Site which houses the Brussels City Museum. I thought that my husband might have enjoyed visiting City Hall, however, after entering the courtyard and the ticket office, we were informed that the next English tour would not be until later that afternoon. Since we had other plans for later in the day, we decided that the tour would have to wait.

Moving onward, we headed over to Manneken Pis and then the museum that acts as his own personal closet, Garderobe Manneken Pis. As we purchased our admission, we were given the option to buy the combination ticket which also allowed access into the Broodhuis. Mulling over the decision, I learned something that I never knew. The Manneken Pis that every one goes to see (including us) is an IMPOSTER! The real Manneken Pis, for security reasons, is kept in the Broodhuis.

This cemented our decision…we were heading there next!

Once a wooden bread market building built in the 13th century, the Broodhuis was replaced by the Duke of Brabant during the 15th century. While City Hall symbolized the city’s independence, the new Broodhouis was designed to be a symbol of his power.

Also known as the Maison du Roi (King’s House), named for the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, who once owned the Bread House, the building was destroyed in the 16th century and rebuilt in the 19th century in the Gothic Revival style that we see today.

As we made our way through the Broodhuis, we learned a great deal about Brussels’ history. There is much attention given to arts, crafts, archaeology and folklore. One complete room was devoted to casts made from the sculptures from the exterior of the building. It was interesting to be able to see what these sculptural entities, only seen from afar, look like up close. Other rooms, gave particular attention to artifacts, tapestries, models and paintings.

What I loved most about this museum, however, was that for all the beauty that can be spied from the outside, the architectural detail is carried on throughout the interior. Carved doorways, stair railings and vaulted ceilings grace the spaces and as I walked from floor to floor, I couldn’t help but gasp at the light illuminating the intricate stained glass windows.

As astounded as we were to inspect this historic space, however, we really had come to see one thing in particular.

Would the REAL Manneken Pis, please stand up?

Okay, he’s already standing…I just really wanted to use that phrase! But seriously, where was he? As we made our way throughout the museum, we kept expecting to turn each corner and find him. Well, you know how this sort of thing works…naturally, he would be placed in the furthest room on the highest floor!

Finally, we discovered him, alone in a glass case. It was almost anticlimactic as I’m so used to seeing his doppelganger set inside his shell-shaped alcove surrounded by hundreds of his adoring fans.

But, alas, we had found him (the REAL him) set inside one of Brussels’ most historic edifices! SO…with the price of a ticket, you have access to two of the city’s most important treasures!

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Brussels City Museum

http://www.brusselscitymuseum.brussels/en
Address: Musée de la Ville de Bruxelles, Grand-Place, 1000 Bruxelles
Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 1000-1700. Closed on Mondays, January 1, May 1, November 1, November 11 and December 25
Admission: Adults ages 18+, 4€. Under age 18 and citizens of Brussels, free. Free with Brussels card and on the first Sunday of the month. You can purchase a combined ticket for both the Garderobe Manneken Pis and the BrusselsCity Museum, 8€.
Getting There: Bourse tram stop, #3 or #4, , Bus, #48 or #95, Metro, Central Station / Brouckère, Train, Central Station

The Old Exchange

Many years have passed since I last visited Charleston, South Carolina.

My memories of the southern city were vague, recollecting only that it had reminded me of New Orleans and my home state of Louisiana and that we had stayed in a hotel that was reported to be haunted!

When I had the opportunity to visit with my husband, who was in town for business, I decided that I would use every waking moment to re-discover everything that makes Charleston…Charleston!

Having already marked off the tourist-worthy points of interest on my map, I had planned to start my explorations bright and early the next morning. Being that it was already the later part of the afternoon, I headed out into the unseasonably warm temperatures intending to only take a walk before dinner.

Walking through the City Market, browsing a bit of the artistic fare displayed for sale, I made my way to the waterfront. Stopping to take in the tranquil view of the Charleston Harbor, I continued my stroll through Waterfront Park admiring the fountains and the old oaks towering above. Heading up to East Bay Street, I found myself at the Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon.

The Charleston landmark was completed in 1771 and is the site of some of the most important events in South Carolina’s history. Used as a Commercial Exchange, a Customs House, a Post Office, City Hall, Military Headquarters, it now operates as a museum. Once the property of both the British and United States governments, the Confederacy and the Charleston City government, it is now owned by the state of South Carolina and the Society of the Daughters of the American Revolution and is operated by the City of Charleston.

As it was the later part of the afternoon, with less than an hour available until closing, I made the quick decision to squeeze in one landmark. After paying my admission, I was instructed to head down to the bottom floor to catch the final tour of the day before squeezing in a visit to the remainder of the museum.

Our tour guide, dressed in Confederate period attire, escorted us through the bottom floor of the Exchange which was converted into a military prison known as the Provost or “dungeon”. Here, American prisoners of war, British soldiers, private citizens and enslaved people were kept here to endure the harsh conditions.

Though the dungeon no longer seems like such a scary place, with its full scale dioramas depicting life in the bowels of the building, I can only imagine the vast number of prisoners (and rats) crammed in this small space with its darkened interior and inhumane conditions. It was no wonder that the survival rate was scant.

With the tour completed, I headed upstairs to investigate the remainder of the institution admiring the Georgian-Palladian design of the building which was constructed from the finest materials and was once a symbol of the city’s worth.

The Old Exchange entertained President George Washington in 1791, events that were attended by hundreds of members of the Charleston aristocracy. It was also a meeting place for local Patriots and hosted South Carolina leaders as they debated and approved the U.S. Constitution. It is one of only four structures remaining where the nation’s founding document was originally ratified. The room of the Daughters of the American Revolution, located on the lower level, also displays a copy of the Declaration of Independence given to the Chapter in 1912 by Brig. General George Gordon Greenough, great nephew of Ann Harrod Adams, sister-in-law of John Quincy Adams. Despite these remarkable events in the nation’s history, there was also many darker notes, including the fact that it was a location often used for slave trading.

There are many artifacts displayed throughout the museum including a setup depicting the Old Post Office once located in the Old Exchange in the 1880’s.

As I walked through the upper floor, I wandered through the Colonel Isaac Haynes Room, dedicated to the patriot who fought in the Seige of Charleston in March 1780. He was hanged in 1781 in Charleston by British troops for espionage and treason.

One of the displays that stood out was of two paintings crafted to commemorate Washington’s visit to Charleston by John Trumbull. The original painting depicted Washington in 1777 prior to the Second Battle of Trenton. When the leaders rejected the painting, citing that Washington should have been painted as he was during his Charleston visit, Trumbull agreed to a second painting which showed Washington standing in nearby Mount Pleasant with the Charleston skyline visible in the background. Originally, the painting was displayed there in the Great Hall of the Old Exchange until City Hall was moved to is present location.

Quite an interesting start to my Charleston discovery…

Guess what I would be going in search of the next day?

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The Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon

http://www.oldexchange.org/
Address: 122 East Bay Street, Charleston, SC 29401
Hours: 0900-1700, daily. Closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day. Tour times, 0900-1700 every day on the half hour.
Admission: Adults, $10.00, Children (7-12 years), $5.00, Children (under 7 years), free. Discounts are available for Senior/AARP, Military, Teachers, Students, Children, and groups of six people or more. The Old Exchange also offers discounted combination tickets with the Old Slave Mart Museum that provide access to both sites. Adults, $15.00, Senior/AARP, $11.00, Children (7-12), $8.00, Children (0-6), free

Let’s GO Lego!

LEGO have been around since before I was born.

Sitting on the floor of my childhood home, my brothers and I used to have major competitions to see who could build the best houses, the best cars or any other idea that caught our fancy. Sometimes we were quite successful in our endeavors…sometimes it was an utter fail!

My three children all played with LEGO and although they are now grown, we still have the boxes filled with small pieces stored away as they can’t seem to part with something special from their childhood.

Lately, it seems that LEGO are everywhere we look. A new Primetime television show highlights LEGO enthusiasts and their creations competing to be crowned LEGO Master. A LEGO exhibit, The Art of the Brick, is touring the world (currently in Los Angeles) and highlights more than 100 original sculptures and re-imagined versions of some of the world’s most famous art masterpieces.

It was the knowledge of The Art of the Brick that prompted me to trek across Milan to visit the latest LEGO exhibition, I Love LEGO that was being hosted in Milan’s Museo della Permanente. It was a rainy day…the perfect kind of day to spend indoors enjoying an art exhibit and I was excited to see what this one offered, knowing that Art of the Brick had been in Milan during the past few years.

After paying my admission, I headed up the stairs to the exhibition rooms where there I was greeted with the first display…the Grande Diorama City. Consisting of 250,000 pieces, this city contains the Legoland Hospital and the Empire Brick Building (topped with King Kong) and a waterfront, a la French Riviera style, complete with small, luxury yachts that even Oprah would be tempted to book a holiday on.

Next on the agenda was a reconstruction of the Forum of Nerva, which was completed and inaugurated by Marcus Cocceius Nerva in AD 97. Though rather small, this figure was created with 80,000 pieces and looks like many of the buildings that can be seen in Rome. There are dozens of miniature soldiers and a tiny Julius Caesar-like figure!

Moving on, Space was the subject of the next diorama. Though the first two peaked my interest for their originality, I was a bit disappointed with this one. Consisting of only 12,000 pieces, it was laid out like a landing strip with individual space ships and vehicles laid throughout. Maybe some people can not build space ships, however, I felt that particular display had no originality, most of it looking as though it was constructed from store-bought kits.

The exhibit continued through a small, purple room, lined with pictures frames made of LEGO bricks highlighting famous works of art made in the LEGO people style…think Vermeer’s Girl With a Pearl Earring, La Giaconda’s Mona Lisa and Jan van Eyck’s Portrait of a Man in a Red Turban.

Partitioned into three sections was a large room containing the next three exhibits. First, I studied the Pirate Diorama, another sad model that only incorporated 12,000 pieces and looked like it was also assembled from store-bought kits. There were two pirate ships, an island filled with palm trees and an alien-like octopus…or so I thought that is what it was.

In the next section was the Castle Diorama built from 250,000 pieces. This one at least appeared to be original and interesting to investigate the areas of the castle’s grounds.

The final section, was called the Eyrie, a massive fortress inspired by the television series Game of Thrones. This immense piece took two years to complete and covers a surface of nine feet, while the actual piece is almost six feet tall. There are many alcoves and openings to discover in the fortress and I was really able to appreciate the ingenuity and imagination required to build such a piece.

On I proceeded…

To the LEGO playroom?

Okay, I thought, this must be the pit stop for kids to duplicate what they have seen before moving on.

But…there was the gift shop…and there was the exit!

Seriously?

I paid 13 euro to see seven LEGO exhibits with only a third of them worth the admission price! This was not what I was expecting! I had anticipated huge, original pieces and duplications of masterpieces (not paintings…full-scale replicas).

So, what’s a girl supposed to do?

I forced myself to do another walk-thru, went back to my hotel room and looked up the dates of The Art of the Brick.

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I Love LEGO

https://www.ticket.it/legomilano
Address: La Permanente, Via Filippo Turati 34, 20121 Milan
Hours: 0930-1930
Admission: 8.00€ to 15.00€
NOTE: This exhibit was active from October 2019 until February 2020 and is now closed.

The Art of the Brick

https://californiasciencecenter.org/
Address: California Science Center, 700 Exposition Park Drive, Los Angeles, CA 90037
Hours: 1000-1700, daily
Admission: Adults (ages 18-64), $19.75, Children (ages 4-12, 3 and under free), $12.75, Students (age 13-17 College Students with ID), $22.70, Seniors (age 65+), $22.70.
Note: Open now until September 7, 2020

The Point of Exit

Truly one of the most devastating events of mankind, we need to see and constantly be reminded of the Holocaust, so that horror is never repeated.

Of course, everyone knows the story of Anne Frank. I have visited the museum dedicated to her memory in Amsterdam and have also visited the Holocaust museum in Washington D.C. I have also read many books on the subject and plan to visit some of the former concentration camps during my future travels. It is heartbreaking to realize how many perished during this time and the terror they must have faced, but education is important so that we have understanding and compassion for what transpired during that time.

As I was researching items of interest in Milan, I stumbled upon a museum which is relatively unknown to most tourists even though it is located a short distance from Central Station, the point of entry and exit to the city for both tourists and locals.

During the war, when the Jews were being rounded up and transported to the concentration camps, Milan Central Station was the point of exit for many Italian Jews.

Not a point of exit for escape…

A point of exit to their new existence…that of one in Nazi concentration and extermination camps.

The platform, which is located, out of sight, in the area below the main level of Milan Central Station, is where prisoners departing from San Vittore prison were loaded onto cattle wagons and sent to their demise.

Today, this platform has been transformed into a place where visitors can come to remember and gain knowledge. It is a symbol of the deportation of all Jews and other persecuted people who left their homes and cities in the same manner, never to return.

Entering the museum, I discovered a very modern space dominated by a long wall in the center. The word Indifference is engraved here, representing the reason why this museum was possible. At the top of the ramp, I entered the third level where I began the actual museum experience.

Twenty-four parallel tracks run through the center of the museum, once the area created for postal wagons, and display the original cattle cars which were used to cram thousands of prisoners inside for their expulsion between 1943 and 1945.

An extremely sobering experience, you can walk inside and through the cars to the opposite platform. Once inside these claustrophobic spaces, however, it is rather frightful to think about being jammed into this small car, shoulder to shoulder, with no food, water or fresh air. Although I wanted to pay my respects to the small memorials set up in each of the cars, I had to constantly walk out to the platforms to gather my bearings.

Heading into the dimmed corridor, I contemplated the wall which displays the names of the 774 Jewish citizens who were deported from this station to Auschwitz-Birkenau. Highlighted are the twenty-seven names of those who survived deportation. There are also many posters on the wall which describe many of the victims.

On the far end of the tracks is a unique meditation chapel and there are enclosed spaces for visitors to watch videos of holocaust survivors’ stories, although, if your Italian is not up to par, you will not get much out of it as there are no subtitles.

While visiting Milan, you will likely pass through Central Station at some point of your stay. The museum is located a short walk around the eastern side of the museum’s entrance and doesn’t require a large amount of your time. Take an hour or so out of your day to be reminded not only of atrocities of mankind, but of the bravery and perseverance of those around us.

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Shoah Memorial

http://www.memorialeshoah.it/memoriale-milano/
Address: Ferrante Aporti Street, 3 – 20125 Milan
Hours: Monday, 0930-1900, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, 1000-1420. Guided tour without reservation, 1830.
Admission: Adults, 10€, Students, children up to 5 years and over 65 years, 5€, group leaders, disabled, disabled companions, 0€
Getting There: Metro, Centrale FS, Sondrio, Caiazzo. Train, Centrale FS.

The Grand Old Opera

Recently, I mentioned the word aria to my son.

He thought I was talking about the hotel in Vegas…sigh.

Many of the younger generation do not have much of an interest in opera. In fact, looking for activities in Nashville, I overheard a teen, who thought the Grand Ole Opry was an opera theater, expressly state to her parents that she would not be involved in that outing. A few years ago, it was with a determined effort that I dragged my thirteen year old to the Opera Theater in Madrid. When he ventured inside, however, he realized that he didn’t have to listen to songs in a language that he was not familiar with and yet, he became fascinated with the elaborate decor and the workings of the stage. Truly, there is something for everyone, not just the performances themselves.

For years, I have visited opera houses in cities throughout the world, yet with all of my visits to Milan, I have never taken the time to seek out a performance at the most famous opera house in the world…Teatro alla Scala.

As a former architecture and interior design student, there is nothing more fulfilling than seeing these gilded, golden-tasseled, velvet covered theaters that have hosted some of the world’s outstanding vocal talents.

After finally considering the idea of booking a performance for the evening at La Scala and discovering that I probably had not brought the proper attire, I discovered that jeans and a sweater would get me into their museum and if I timed it perfectly, I might even get a peek at the stage from one of the boxes.

Making my way to the theater, I was surprised to find a line snaking its way into the small square to the left of the famed building. Keeping an eye on the time, I knew there was a small window when rehearsals ended and the theater would be open for viewing. Finally, with tickets in hand, I was ushered inside and up the stairs to the large, columned, church-like foyer, where crowds gather before and during intermissions. It is not surprising that this space has the feel of a church…La Scala, dating back to the 1700’s, was built on the location of the church of Santa Maria alla Scala, after which it was named. Much like the treasures that can be found in a holy temple, there were beautiful chandeliers, busts of famous composers (Pucini and Toscanini) and a model of La Scala.

The doors to the theater were finally opened and I was given a number to a box that was available. Though I wish I would have had the box to myself, it was awe-inspiring to stand in this small space, looking out over the elaborate theater with its tiers of balconies and Murano chandelier and imagine witnessing one of the timeless operas being performed on the stage, in front of crowds of over two thousand.

After many minutes of drinking in this spectacle and realizing that others were trying to make their way in, I reluctantly vacated my spot along the balcony and headed back thru the foyer.

The museum, though only eight rooms, is brimming with paintings, busts, statuettes and many objects used during past performances and contain great historical value.

Though I am sure a guide would have pointed out the most relevant of the contents, there were interactive screens which described the rooms’ pieces and each of the rooms, I discovered, is dedicated to a different era in the theater’s history.

Beautiful portraits bedecked the walls in the room dedicated to the legendary sopranos of La Scala who drew crowds of admirers and another room was dedicated to Giuseppe Verdi, the composer who was very influential to the art and who passed away next door at the Grand Hotel et de Milan. Of course, no opera museum would be complete without paying reverence to the greatest soprano of the mid-20th century, Maria Callas. The gallery boasts a beautiful portrait of her, sitting on a chair next to a portrait of her arch-rival, Renata Tebaldi!

I’m sure my sons have no inkling of who Maria Callas is, but I have to admit that I learned a lot more about opera during my visit to La Scala, sparking a yearning to finally see a performance during my lifetime!

I also learned that next time I need to pack something nicer than a sweater and jeans!

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Museo Teatrale alla Scala

http://www.museoscala.org/en/
Address: Largo Ghiringhelli 1, Piazza Scala, 20121, Milano
Hours: 0900-1730, daily (last admission, 1700). Closed on December 7, 24, 25, January 1, Easter, May 1, August 15.
Admission: Adults, €9, Students over 12 years, €6, Ages over 65, €6, Children under 12, free. Open ticket €12, good for admission on the day of your choice (until Dec 31, 2020), with fast track.

The Middle of the City

There are five UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Ecuador.

The city of Quito received the prestigious honor in 1978.

Notorious for it equatorial crossing, Quito is known as the Middle of the World. It’s famous Old Town, which helped to earn its UNESCO World Heritage status, can be found in the middle of the city.

Founded in the 16th century on the ruins of an Inca city, the capital of Ecuador is one of the best preserved and least altered historic centers in Latin America. The city’s chief attraction is its Old Town, el Centro Historico, and its ample array of churches, monasteries and convents which date back to the beginnings of the colony. The Old Town spans a relatively small area, so it is quite easy to cover the distance in a day. Trying to decide what to see within that area is the most difficult part.

The best way to begin the exploration of Quito is in the Plaza de la Independencia, the city’s main square. Since the Basilica had taken up our entire morning, we would officially begin our tour the Old Town here.

Also known to the locals as Plaza Grande, the square is a part of the city’s rich history and a place where they go to chat, relax, play, eat and sometimes, get their shoes polished! It is surrounded by some of the most beautiful buildings in the city, including the Governor’s Palace (Palacio de Gobierno), the home and office of the Ecuadorian president, the Metropolitan Cathedral (Cathedral Metropolitana) and a centralized fountain surrounded by well manicured gardens.

Deciding to have a bite to eat before beginning our explorations we wandered into the Palacio Arzobispal (Archbishop’s Palace), a beautiful manor located along the north side of the plaza, which is the official residence of the Archbishop of Quito. In its three cobblestone courtyards, there is a multitude of shops and eateries. In this mall, we found Cafe del Fraile situated on the second floor, extending onto the ornate wooden balconies.

The food and service were equally as good as the scenery, both inside the restaurant and out. Seated on the balcony, we had an excellent view of the courtyard below and of some of the beautiful religious artwork that decorated it. So mesmerized by the theological pieces, I had to take a walk throughout all of the rooms, to make sure I didn’t miss anything!

After our meal was complete, we proceeded into the plaza. We found that the police had completely surrounded the square with tall wire fencing and would only let us out onto Venezuela Street. Not sure what was happening, our question was answered a short time later when a band of protesters came marching down the street, carrying signs and bullhorns. Deciding to cross over to the other side of the square on another street, we headed to the Church of La Compañía de Jesus (The Church of the Society of Jesus).

After paying our admission, I inquired as to whether photos were allowed. Not surprisingly, I was told no, as is the norm in many of the churches in Ecuador. Of course, after beginning our tour of the church, I was so enthralled with the sheer artistry of the interior, that I had to try and capture as much as I could without being seen.

Built over a span of 160 years, this church is known as the most beautiful church in the city and possibly all of Ecuador. Its gold leaf interior, elaborate design and traditional architecture are some of the most captivating I have ever witnessed.

Moving on, we headed to the El Museo Camilo Egas…well, not really headed. As we were walking by, we were invited in by the security guard. Not sure of what we were going in to see, we just decided to go with it.

This museum is dedicated to one of the great modern Ecuadorian artists of the twentieth century, Camilo Egas. This exhibition showed the different stages of his work during his lifetime (1898-1962) and is housed in a beautifully restored 17th century mansion.

As we walked along in the city, we enjoyed the handsome architecture…some buildings in better condition than others. The thing we enjoyed the most, however, was the people, most going about their daily activities and those practicing their traditional trades…the hatters, shoemakers and food vendors.

It was pretty easy to navigate the city using Google Maps on my Iphone, however, people often relate that making their way around the Old Town can be quite confusing. Noticing different types of signs, we learned that many streets have two different names…the official name on green plaques and the historical name painted on ceramic tiles. Most streets in the immediate Old Town area, however, have been laid in a grid-like fashion, from north to south, so getting around the center is fairly easy.

Heading in the direction of Panecillo Hill, we had decided to make our way to Calle La Ronda, the local nightlife area, when we were stopped by the police. Apparently we stuck out like the tourists that we were and they wanted to make sure that we were cautious if we were heading toward Calle La Ronda, an area sometimes known for pickpockets and thieves. A lively area in the evenings, we had thought to check it out during the day in the event that we decided to head there for dinner later that evening.

Though the walk was uneventful, heading down off of the overpass to access Calle de la Ronda, seemed a little sketchy. Once we were on the street, however, we found it to be quiet and lined with many historic buildings. It was interesting to find out that in the past, men would serenade the women on the balconies. If they sung well, they were invited to come in and meet the family and the woman. For those that could not carry a tune? They were only met with a bucket of water to their head!

Music still plays a big part on the mile-long stretch of the pedestrian street. During the evenings, especially on Friday and Saturday, the music is cranked up and you can find many restaurants cooking up Ecuadorian specialties and vendors selling handicrafts. We did head there later that evening, but found the loud music to be quite overwhelming and chose a quieter restaurant at the far end of the street.

Swinging by the Plaza Santo Domingo, I had hoped to be able to enter the church, however we found it to be closed. Inquiring with some of the vendors, I was told it would be open later in the day. Knowing our afternoon was coming to a close, I admired the uncrowded plaza which lent to some beautiful photos and we moved on. Later that evening, when we departed Calle La Ronda, we were able to observe the Church of Santo Domingo lit up beautifully and how crowded the square had become. If street performers is your thing, this is the place to go!

Continuing on our walk through Old Town, we decided to visit the Museo del Carmen Alto which is situated on the location where Saint Mariana of Jesus (Quito’s patron saint) lived and died. (Read more about it in a future post)

Nearing Plaza Independencia, we found that the police had removed the barricades and the square was back to its normal everyday routine. Though my husband was growing tired of visiting churches and desperately wanted to grab a seat and have a beer, I persuaded him to make one last push.

The Metropolitan Cathedral situated on the southern side of the plaza was a place that I had really wanted to visit and it did not disappoint. Though it is not as extravagant from the exterior, the interior has some amazing treasures. (You can read more about in in a future post)

So that was it! SO much to do in Quito’s old town and we had only made a dent. We were spending the next day traveling out to Otavalo and its sprawling market, so seeing the rest of Quito’s treasures would have to wait until a future visit.

When spending time in Quito, there is so much more to see…the Museo Alberto Mena Caamaño and its waxworks, the Casa de María Augusta Urrutia or the Casa de Sucre, to get a glimpse inside the best preserved Old Town houses and the Governor’s Palace (tours leave every 20 minutes starting at 0900). And for the church lovers like me, there are countless sanctuaries throughout the city, many within Old Town, including Plaza de San Francisco and its baroque church, Basilica of our Lady of the Merced, The Church of El Sagrario, Carmen Bajo, Church of San Agustin, Santa Catalina de Sienna Church and Convent, Church of San Blas, El Belén, The Guápulo Church and Convent.

I really must go back!

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El Museo Camilo Egas

Address: Venezuela 1302, Quito, Pichincha
Hours: Monday-Friday, 0900-1700, Saturday-Sunday, 1000-1600
Admission: $1.00

Cafe Del Fraile

http://cafedelfraile.com/
Address: Chile Oe 4-22, Venezuela, Palacio, Arzobispal Mall, Quito, Pinchincha 170150
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0900-1100, Sunday, 1000-0900

Plaza de la Independencia

Address: Garcia Moreno St. and Chile St., Venezuela, Quito, 170401, Ecuador
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free

Church of the Jesuits

http://fundacioniglesiadelacompania.org.ec/portal/m/Inicio
Address: Garcia Moreno N10-43, Quito 170401, Ecuador
Hours: Monday-Friday, 0930-1830, Saturday, 0930-1600, Sunday, 1230-1600
Admission: Free visits on the first Sunday of each month. Adult admission approximately $2.

Museo del Carmen Alto

http://www.museocarmenalto.gob.ec/
Address: Garcia Moreno y Rocafuerte, Junto al Arco de la Reina, Quito, Pinchincha 17015
Hours: Wednesday-Sunday, 0930-1730, daily
Admission: Adults, $3.00, Children, $1.00

Museo Catedral Primada de Quito

http://www.catedraldequito.org/
Address: Venezuela y Espejo 715, Quito
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0930-1700
Admission: National Tourists, Adults, $2.00, Children, Students, Seniors, People with Disabilities, $1.00. Visit to Domes (Church+Museum+Domes) $4.00. Foreign Tourists, Adults, $3.00, Children, Students, Seniors, People with Disabilities, $2.00. Visit to Domes (Church+Museum+Domes) $6.00.

The Real Middle

Global Positioning System was introduced in the 1970’s. With this launch, it was determined that the Equator line in Quito, Ecuador was not where originally thought after the eighteenth century Franco-Spanish Geodesic Mission first determined its location.

That’s a big problem, especially when the city invested millions of dollars to build a tourist attraction so that tourists could photograph themselves straddling the imaginary line, marked with yellow, which divides the globe into the northern and southern hemispheres!

Visiting Mitad del Mundo first, we understood the complexity of the situation but took it all in stride. After all, the entire complex was quite charming and entertaining and we could have stayed for much longer if we would have had the time.

After a bit of research, I had found that the Intinan Solar Museum was located a short distance from Mitad del Mundo’s entrance gates and was highly recommended from past visitors.

Guiding my husband along the sidewalk and following the marked location on my iPhone map app, we took a turn onto a gravel drive leading uphill. There didn’t appear to be much here aside from a couple of rundown buildings and the occasional vehicle that passed us by, stirring up the dust on the roadway. My husband, a little skeptical, insisted we turn back, even though a sign at the main road had pointed the way. I, ever the adventurer, insisted we keep going.

Soon, cresting the hill (and much to my husband’s relief), we found the raised walkway leading to the entrance built into the hillside. Greeted by one of the workers, we were directed to the ticket booth and instructed to wait until an English speaking guide became available.

The whole complex was fairly small but well appointed with Ecuadorian decor including totem poles that were gifted by other countries and re-creations of cultural villages. As we waited, we inspected the gift shops and grabbed some water from the restaurant.

Our guide soon introduced himself and began his job of escorting us through the village explaining its history and offering a look into Ecuadorian life through exhibits showing daily life including homes, tools and dioramas. Authentic items displayed included a shrunken head, a stuffed anaconda and a burial chamber with a re-created mummy. A demonstration of how chocolate is made from its cacao beginnings was quite compelling, especially when we were offered delicious samples.

The best part of the complex was the interactive demonstrations which took place on the Equator line, marked in red, running through the entire village. These presentations depicted the pull of the equator’s force…trying to walk the equator line with my eyes closed (unsuccessfully, of course), balancing an egg on a nail and draining a basin on the equator line and in both hemispheres. Many reviews refer to these as parlor tricks, but I guess I am quite gullible…I thought they were quite believable, though I could never balance that egg on the nail!

Water drains straight down on the equator line

Water drains clockwise in the southern hemisphere

Water drains counterclockwise in the northern hemisphere

Our entire visit lasted about an hour but was time well spent. Although both equator sites were vastly different, we enjoyed our time at each and I would recommend that anyone visiting Quito make time in their day for a visit to both sites.

But, if someone insisted that I pick a favorite…

The Intinan Solar Museum, by a mile! I loved it for its more intimate feel and the personalized experience we received there.

Visit both and make up your own mind!

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Intinan Solar Museum

http://museointinan.com.ec/en/
Address: Autopista Manuel Cordova Galarza, a 200 metros del redondel de la Mitad del Mundo, San Antonio, Pichincha 170180
Hours: 0930-1700, daily
Admission: Adults, $4.00 US, Children (ages 6-12 years), $2.00, Children under 6, free