My first trip to Venice was over twenty years ago. After making a list of all the things I wanted to do and see during my visit, I remember what topped the list…a gondola ride.
When I arrived, I was mesmerized by the canals, the architecture, the shops, the museums, the squares, the food…basically everything around me! There was a picture on every corner and I desperately wanted to share the experience with my family, but not just through pictures.
That gondola ride?
It dawned on me how special it could be and it was something that I wanted to also share with my family…one day. So, I waited.
And waited.
And waited some more.
More than twenty years passed and the only gondola ride I ever took was on a traghetto, one of large gondolas that are used by locals and tourists to cross the Grand Canal, especially where there are none of the four bridges to cross its width. While it satisfied my desire to mark that item off of my bucket list, it didn’t cost much (about fifty cents at that time) and it was fun, I still desired that opportunity to have someone significant to share a real gondola ride with.
My husband’s and my anniversary and my birthday (which are a day apart) was coming up and we decided to take a weekend trip to Venice. After some exploration of the city, we found ourselves near the location of the Traghetto San Toma. We needed to cross the Grand Canal, so we dug out the 2 euros and waited to take our place on board. It was a quick crossing, but it gave my husband a taste of what was to come.
The day wore on as we traversed the city and I kept an eye out for the perfect place and time to hire a gondola…not just a traghetto. Having just returned on the water taxi from Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore, we were trying to decide what our next move was. Crossing a small bridge, I noticed a sign advertising the price of the gondola ride at this location.
It was time!
After making an arrangement with the gondolier, we stepped gingerly into the beautifully carved black vessel, took our seats and were off, the gondolier poling us expertly away from the dock.
Gliding through the still waters of the small canal, we admired the passing architecture and listened as our gondolier, Giovanni, regaled us with the story of how the profession had been handed down to him from his father…he was the fourth generation of gondolieri!
It was interesting to learn how under a Venetian law, one must have been born in Venice to become a gondolier. Gondoliers go through rigorous training and must pass rowing and swimming tests as well as spend 12-18 months at an “arte del gondiliere” school where they take courses in a foreign language, Venetian history and culture, geography and rowing. Prospective gondolieri complete 400 hours of training before taking their exams and then they are able to register as a substitute gondolier, work the traghetti and join the exclusive 1000 year old Gondoliers Guild. Only 425 gondolier licenses are awarded by the city and each license is linked to a particular gondola station, so the gondoliers work in the same location.
With such a personable and informative gondolier, we were lucky that we had found that particular station!
The gondola that was our transportation for a half an hour was much like the rest that cruised the Venetian canals… wooden and ebony colored as it has been the since a law was passed in the 17th century. Before this time, the hand-made, flat-bottomed boats were painted in bright, bold colors until a Venetian doge ordered them all to be painted black. Each is 35-feet long and weighs more than 1100 pounds, but the most interesting thing I learned was that the port side of the gondola is nine inches wider than the starboard side so that the gondolier can stand there for balance.
As other gondolas passed in close proximity, I noticed that some wore red striped shirts and some wore blue, a uniform completed with dark blue or black trousers and black shoes. Giovanni explained that the Guild regulates the uniform of the gondolieri and that the emblem of the Gondoliers is embroidered on the shirts and jackets. While he didn’t wear a straw hat with a ribbon, I noticed others that did, discovering that they were optional.
While all of this was fascinating, it was just nice to relax and enjoy the moment, one that had been years in the making. The best part was that not only was I getting the ride that I had waited so long for with my husband, it was on our twenty-ninth wedding anniversary!
Now that was worth waiting for!
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€80 (about US$ 81.30). The price goes up to €100 (about US$ 101.60) from 7 pm onwards. If you want the gondolier to sing or to play an instrument during the ride, you will have to pay extra.
If you ever wonder how many churches are in Venice and the islands, I have the answer for you.
About 137.
Sometimes, I go out in search of churches while visiting European cities, sometimes I just stumble upon them, as was the case while my husband and I were spending the weekend in Venice. With that many churches in such a relatively small expanse, its not hard to find one!
We had just arrived and were having lunch in the Campo dei Frari when I noticed the cross on the adjacent building. After a few pictures on the bridge, I edged toward the building and discovered the door open. Okay, my poor husband probably wanted to see the Bridge of Sighs and the Grand Canal, but surely we had a couple of minutes to see what was inside this church.
After paying our admittance, we quickly skimmed over the brochure and map handed to us and made our way throughout the interior.
What we learned was that this was no ordinary neighborhood church. The Gothic styled Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (or The Frari) is the largest church in the city and dedicated to the Assumption of Mary. This church’s beginnings go back to 1231 when land was donated with the intent of establishing a Franciscan monastery, however, grander ambitions prevailed. A three nave church was begun in 1250, however, it took eighty-eight years for its completion. Almost immediately, another church was begun…the current church, which still stands today. Taking over a century to build, the architectural footprint was reversed and a campanile was added; the second tallest in the city. The chapel of San Pietro was built from 1432-1434, the façade completed in 1440 and the main altar consecrated in 1469. Finally, the church was consecrated on May 27, 1492 with the name of Santa Maria Gloriosa.
While we found the exterior to be rather plain, the interior was filled with many grand wall monuments dedicated to distinguished Venetians buried in the church, including a number of Doges and the painter, Titian. The three naves were separated by twelve massive columns and spanned with wooden beams. It was slow work trying to take it all in and making our way throughout the church to see all that it had to offer.
After inspecting each of the monuments, which were placed where side chapels would ordinarily be located, we examined each of the important works of art that the church is known for; the masterpiece, Assumption of the Virgin on the high altar and altarpieces by Titian, the Madonna and Child with Saints (also known as the Frari Triptych) by Giovanni Bellini in its original frame and the altarpiece Madonna di Ca’ Pesaro, by Tiziano, Madonna with the Franciscan Saints by Bernardino Licinio, Donatello Sculpture in the Chapel of St. John the Baptist, Madonna with Franciscan Saints by Bernardina Licinio, Madonna and Child with Saints and Doge, by Paolo Venezia, Madonna Con Bambino E Santi by Jacopo from Faenza and the 13th century Crucifix on the left of the high altar. My favorite, however, was the Choir of the Monks (Coro dei Frati) in its original condition with 124 wooden stalls inlaid with views of Venice, created by Marco Cozzi, which sports the only rood screen (which separates the nave from the choir) still in place in Venice.
Assumption of the Virgin on the High AltarMadonna and Child with Saints (also known as the Frari Triptych)
Madonna di Ca’ Pesaro
Madonna with Franciscan Saints by Bernardino Licinio
Donatello Sculpture in the Chapel of St. John the BaptistMadonna with Child, Saints and Doge
Madonna Con Bambino E Santi
13th century Crucifix
Choir of the Monks (Coro dei Frati) Choir of the Monks (Coro dei Frati)
St. Mark and Saints in the Corners Chapel
Mausoleum Dedicated to TitianAltar of Saint Peter (top left), Monument Dedicated to the Doge Giovanni Pesaro (middle bottom)Monument Dedicated to Jacopo MarcelloSacristyChapel of St. Mark
We also made our way outside on the right of the church and discovered the cloister. As much as I love spending time in ancient cloisters, I was disappointed as this one seemed to be quite neglected. While there were a few elaborately carved marble statues in the courtyard and on the balconies surrounding it, the beauty of these was overshadowed by the large amount of weeds growing through cracks in the flagstone.
The Cloister
While the monument to Antonio Canova (1827) would be something to take in, at this point in time, it was walled off for renovations. The pyramidal structure is dedicated to the neo-classical sculptor, built by his students and intended to house the heart of the sculptor Tiziano. The heart, however, was never interred here, brought to Passagno, his birth place. As most people are confused with the shape of the monument, it is clear if those understand that Canova was a Freemason and that the pyramid is the symbol of the Great Architect of the Universe.
Monument to Antonio Canova
Finally, we headed toward the exit. In most churches, one would expect to see a pipe organ in the loft above, however, the loft was absent and a beautiful sculptural work decorated the wall around the main doorway. Definitely a way to continue to engage visitors upon their exit!
Stepping out into the sunshine, it was clear we were in Venice with a canal and bridge spread out before us. While it was time to head to some of the city’s more famous sights, I was glad that we had made the time to visit this ancient church!
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Admission: Adults, €5,00. Student (under 30 with ID card). €2,00, Senior (over 65 years), €3,00. Children (ages 0-11 years), residents of Venice, disabled travelers and assistants, authorized tour guides and leaders, free.
Getting There: From the train station and from Piazzale Roma (bus terminal) On foot: about 15 minutes, follow signs towards Frari-Rialto. By vaporetto: take Linea 1 or Linea 2, San Marco bound, get off at San Tomà stop. From Saint Mark’s squareOn foot: about 25 minutes, follow signs towards Ferrovia-Piazzale Roma. By vaporetto: Linea 1 or Linea 2, Ferrovia bound – get off at San Tomà stop.
One of the most famous churches can be found in Barcelona.
The Sagrada Familia.
So when I was asked what I was going to do on my layover in Barcelona and I said, “Go to the cathedral,” everyone naturally assumed I was headed to the monumental landmark.
“Oh, the Sagrada Familia,” they said.
“No, the cathedral,” I replied watching the perplexed look cross their faces.
“Yes, the Sagrada Familia, the famous church,” they countered.
“No, the other one. The cathedral.” (And actually, the Sagrada Familia is a basilica and the Barcelona Cathedral, is well…a cathedral, but I can’t fault everyone for not knowing the difference).
Having always been fascinated by the architecture in the Gothic Quarter, it was a wonder that I had never visited the cathedral, one of the most visible and outstanding examples of the architectural style. Visiting Barcelona a short time after Covid protocols were put in place, I had learned that reservations were required for entry and of course, I didn’t have one on that trip. This time, I was prepared. I had purchased my timed entry before leaving New York, allowing for a short nap before heading to the Gothic Quarter.
The Barcelona Cathedral was constructed from the thirteenth to fifteen centuries (with the bulk of the work done within the fourteenth) on the foundations of a primitive basilica that was later named a cathedral. Because of the span of time taken for the completion, the distinct periods are characterized throughout its layout. The façade, which you see today, was initiated with the church’s construction, however, was not built until 1897 until 1890 and was completed in 1913.
Also known as The Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia, it was named for the patron saint of Barcelona, whose remains are entombed in the cathedral’s crypt, however, this is not the only thing to see in the spectacular place of worship.
Making my entrance, I had planned a visit of approximately one and a half hours plus some additional time for the Diocesan Museum. What I did not realize was how poorly I had planned. Moving throughout the cathedral, passing my eyes over its vast interior, it dawned on me that it would take me twice that time…maybe more.
First moving through the cathedral floor, I was entranced by the ornate side chapels and the vaulted ceiling, but I quickly reached the elevators leading to the roof within the Chapel of the Innocent Saints. Spotting a short line, I decided to take advantage of the limited wait and head to the cathedral’s highest point. After a short ride, I exited the elevator and made my way up stairways and across catwalks, spying the intricacies of the cathedral’s roof, bell towers, lateral pinnacles, the cimborio crowned by the Holy Cross as well as phenomenal views of the city. Under the azure sky of the winter afternoon, I couldn’t imagine a better place to be to take in the day!
Chapel of Saint Lucia
Chapel of Saint Lucia
Chapels of the CathedralChapels of the CathedralChapels of the CathedralChapels of the CathedralChapels of the CathedralChapels of the CathedralThe Cathedral Rooftop
The Cathedral Rooftop
The Cathedral Rooftop
The Cathedral Rooftop
The Cathedral Rooftop
The Cathedral Rooftop
The Cathedral Rooftop
The Cathedral Rooftop
Heading down back into the cathedral, I continued my explorations, finding myself passing through the external doors of the Pieta and of Saint Eulalia, I discovered the cloister…a place of pure peace, similar, in some ways, to other cloisters I have visited…yet it offered up a surprise. The rectangular space was made up of four galleries, separated by sculpted pillars, showing scenes from the Old Testament and from a legend about the Holy Cross. Other scenes from the New Testament were spotted on the keystones. There were distinct chapels in each gallery, but it was the center of the cloister that commanded my attention. Filled with a garden of palm trees, magnolias and orange trees, there was a vast pond centered with a fountain, dating back to the mid-15th century. Still, while the pond and the beautiful greenery took my breath away, it was the residents of this cloister that made me laugh with delight. No, not nuns…geese! The large pond is the home for thirteen white geese, who despite their natural inclination to honk (and holler), stay fairly silent, almost as if they have taken a vow of silence!
The CloisterThe Cloister
The Cloister
The CloisterThe Cloister
The Cloister
The CloisterResidentsThe CloisterThe Cloister
Making my way back into the main part of the church, I continued my explorations of the side chapels, finally discovering one that the cathedral is well known for, The Chapel of the Holy Sacrament and of the Holy Christ of Lepanto. Constructed in 1407, it was the Chapterhouse of the Cathedral until 1676, when Saint Olegarius was canonized and the room became his mausoleum. The former Chapter Hall is not a large one and dimly lit, but highlighted on the main altar, is the burial chamber of Saint Olegarius, the bishop of Barcelona and above that, the 16th century Holy Christ of Lepanto. Quite beautiful!
Chapel of the Holy Sacrament and of the Holy Christ of LepantoChapel of the Holy Sacrament and of the Holy Christ of Lepanto
The current Chapter Hall, located near the Cloister and now a museum space, displays 15th century paintings, an 11th century baptism font and the 14th century monstrance (the receptacle in which the host is held and displayed), made up from the campaign throne of King Martin the Humane. Definitely worth a look!
Eventually, I made my way back to the cathedral’s main floor and the high altar. The high altar, the main focus in the church, almost seems lost in the vastness of the space. With its towering vaulted ceilings, and the fact that it sits above the Chapel of Saint Eulalia with the staircase leading to it in front of the altar, makes me wonder if those attending mass can even see the priest performing his ritualistic duties. Nonetheless, I think it would be an amazing experience to attend mass here.
High Altar
Making my way down the stairs to the Chapel of Saint Eulalia, I peered through the wrought iron gate at the burial chamber of the saint. Designed by masters from Pisa and Siena between 1327 and 1339, the reliefs narrate the story of the saint and the sepulcher is crowned by five images, four angels with candlesticks and the image of the Virgin. Beyond the Gothic chamber is the original sepulcher of Saint Eulalia, found by the bishop of Frodoino in 878 in the cemetery of Santa Maria del Mar, and a piece of broken marble with the original inscription commemorating her. Though the crypt is not consistently illuminated, there is a coin slot that accepts payment (.50€) and will highlight the space for a few moments.
Chapel of Saint Eulalia
Finally, I turned toward the rear of the cathedral. In the center of the cathedral floor, between the high altar and the entrance was the Choir With the Golden Fleece Choir Stalls. Construction on this most significant work in the cathedral was begun in 1390 and designed in the Catalan Gothic Style with the canopies and pinnacles being added at the end of the 15th century. What I loved the most, however, was the colorful commemorative shields painted by Juan de Borgoña that relate to the order of the Golden Fleece who were summoned to meet in Barcelona in 1519 by their master, Emperor Charles V…thus their name. Another remarkable aspect of this space is the wooden pulpit carved by sculptor Pedro Çanglada in 1403.
The Barcelona CathedralThe Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona CathedralThe Barcelona CathedralThe Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona Cathedral
The Barcelona CathedralThe Barcelona Cathedral
Taking one last look around and at also at my watch, I realized that if I was going to visit the adjacent Diocesan museum, I had better make hast. Exiting the cathedral, I stood on the front steps and gazed up at the exterior. It really is a phenomenal piece of Gothic architecture!
It was an extremely short walk to the museum building next door, however, I had one more exterior feature that I wanted to see…the Door of Saint Ivo. Located under the bell towers, this portal was the main entrance for over five hundred years and is named for Saint Ivo, the patron saint of lawyers.
The Door of Saint Ivo
Finally, making my entrance into the museum, I began my explorations of of the artistic works that have been donated to the church. Housed in the building known as the Casa de la Pia Almoina (House of the Blessed Charity) or La Canonja (the Canonry) as it once housed the canons of St. Augustin, this structure is a part of a group of medieval buildings that are integrated into the city’s 4th century (A.D.) Roman wall.
Exterior of the Diocesan Museum and adjacent sculpture
The collection spans three floors and contains about 3,000 items including paintings, sculptures, ceramics and religious clothing which date from the late Roman era to the twentieth century.
The Diocesan Museum
The Diocesan Museum
The Diocesan Museum
The Diocesan Museum
After working my way through each of the floors of the museum, I noticed some of the workers tidying up and realized that it was the end of the day…time for me to go.
So, the next day, another co-worker whom I hadn’t really spoken to much on the way to Barcelona asked me how I spent my layover.
“I went to the Barcelona Cathedral. It was amazing!”
“Oh, you’re a fan of Gaudi! Did you love the Sagrada Familia?”
Sigh…
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Address:Pla de la Seu, s/n, 08002 Barcelona, Spain
Hours: Monday to Friday, 0930-1830, Saturday, 0930-1730, Sunday, 1400-1700
Mass schedule: Weekdays (in the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament), 0900 (Catalan), 1100 (Catalan), 1200 (Spanish), 1915 (Catalan). Sundays and Holidays (on the High Altar), 0900 (Catalan), 1000 (Catalan), 1200 (Spanish), 1300 (Catalan), 1800 (Spanish), 1915 (Catalan). Saturdays and Holiday Eves (in the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament), 0900 (Catalan), 1100 (Catalan), 1200 (Spanish), (High Altar), 1800 (Spanish), 1915 (Catalan).
Admission: Cathedral, 9€ per person Cathedral and Diocesan Museum, 15€ per person
Getting There: Metro, Jaume I station or Urquinaona station
While there are many churches in Madrid, one that is relatively new is the one that takes center stage…for many reasons.
The Almudena Cathedral.
I’ve walked by this stunning piece of architecture countless times on my visits to Madrid. Why I never stepped inside, I am not sure. Perhaps it wasn’t during opening hours, or I simply had other more pressing matters to attend. On this particular day, however, it was open and I had nothing on the agenda.
But it was not the cathedral that I happened upon first. It was the crypt.
Noticing the open doors, located in front of the Arab Wall, I wandered in.
Entrance of the Crypt of Almudena
The first thing I noticed were the columns. 400 of them!
Four hundred columns fill the space, each crowned with biblical figures, nature scenes and the symbol of Madrid, the bear and the strawberry tree (which I had also spotted earlier near my hotel).
Mirroring the same architectural footprint as the cathedral above, it is the largest crypt in Spain and the resting place of some of the country’s most notable families and to King Alfonso XII’s first wife Maria de las Mercedes de Orleans. As I wandered through the space, admiring each of the incredibly bedecked side chapels with their Byzantine mosaics and Gothic stained-glass windows. Many of the tombs were extremely elaborate, demonstrating the power and wealth of the families of those interred. The most fascinating facet, however, was the Chapel dedicated to Nuestra Senora de la Flor de Lis (Our Lady of the Lily), possibly the oldest image of the Virgin in the city.
Nuestra Senora de la Flor de Lis (Our Lady of the Lily)
Chapel of the Marques of Fontalba
Chapel of the Marques of FontalbaCapilla de los Exemos Srs Marqueses de Urquijo
Capilla Virgen de Rosario and Capilla de la Exema Srs Marquesa de San Juan
Overall, it had the grand feeling of a cathedral yet more peaceful as would be expected.
Now I was ready for the cathedral itself.
Making my way out of the crypt, I walked around the corner praying that I would find the cathedral open.
Cathedral of Almudena
The sun was getting lower in the afternoon sky as I glanced up at the cathedral’s façade. Making my way up the stairs, it was hopeful to see other people exiting the entrance.
Cathedral of Almudena
Cathedral of Almudena
Cathedral of Almudena
The church, which was completed and consecrated by in 1993 by Pope John Paul II, is the first cathedral to be consecrated outside of Rome, but plans for the church date back to 1879 when Francisco de Cubas wanted to create a pantheon for the late Queen Maria de la Mercedes. Construction was started four years later, but those plans were changed as the idea for a cathedral was conceived.
Inspired by French cathedral architecture, it was the first to include a crypt and it was to be a cathedral built by the people. When donations came up short, this and other construction problems delayed the project further. The crypt was opened in 1911 but further construction was delayed with the outbreak of the Civil War. As Gothic style went out of vogue, new architectural solutions were sought out. Work was restarted in 1950 with the cloister being completed in 1955 and the main façade in 1960. With many years of construction to follow, the cathedral was finally considered finished in 1993.
Cathedral of Almudena Interior
As I entered and made my way around the cathedral, what struck me most was not the beautiful stained glass windows (which were amazing), not the numerous columns that filled the space (like in the crypt), not the massive organ in the choir loft, but the colorful ceiling above. It was something like I’ve never seen and very much unexpected as it not matched the classical style!
Cathedral of Almudena Interior Cathedral of Almudena Interior Cathedral of Almudena Interior Cathedral of Almudena Interior Cathedral of Almudena Interior Cathedral of Almudena Interior
After my departure, I learned that the cathedral houses a museum which contains effigies of the city’s patron saints, the Virgin Mary of la Almudena and San Isidro of Labrador and an exhibition of the life of the Church through the seven sacraments. The museum contains twelve halls which contain mosaics, Episcopal symbols and vestments. I also learned that I had missed access to the cathedral’s dome. My understanding of this area of the cathedral is that it is not particularly noteworthy however, I am not one to pass up an opportunity! After further research, I discovered I was visiting on a Saturday afternoon when closing time for these two features was well before my arrival. So my advice to those seeking to visit both the crypt and the cathedral and the entirety of it interior…get there early!
Guess I will have to go back!
And be early!!!
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Traveling with my friend Cristina is always a treat…she’s one of those few people that I can plan a trip with and expect to see everything that the city has to offer. She has as much energy as I do and always has an idea for something fun! Together, we are a traveling force to be reckoned with!
Last fall, while working a trip to Milan, we decided that we should take a day trip to a neighboring city. Scouring the map, we looked for cities that were an hour or an hour and a half away and that offered numerous sites and a city center with easy access to the train station.
Stumbling upon a cool little video about the city of Lodi, we decided that this would be our destination. With only a thirty-minute train ride (a bonus!), a beautiful Piazza and plenty of churches, it looked like there would be plenty to keep us occupied that afternoon.
Heading to Milan’s Centrale Station, we hopped on a train and struck up conversation with a young woman heading toward Bologna. She had been to Lodi and insisted that we would enjoy our excursion, especially since it was one of those no-cloud-in-the-sky warm fall afternoons.
Thirty minutes later, bidding our new friend Arrivederci, we jumped off the train and made our way toward the city center. Spying some unique architecture and passing through Passeggio Federico I Park and its many monuments, we happened upon the Porta Cremona, a monumental gate which also pays tribute to the fallen of the Great War fought in Lodi, Italy.
Passeggio Federico I Park
Porta Cremona
Porta Cremona
Gazing wistfully at the locked Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, we continued on knowing that there was much that awaited us only a few blocks away.
Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie
Heading north, we chatted as we passed numerous churches, intriguing alleyways and interesting art and architecture. Reaching the Napoleon Bonaparte bridge, which spans the Adda river, we stood on its pedestrian walkway gazing out at its muddy waters and the beautiful villas lining its banks. This bridge played an important role in the Battle of Lodi, during the French Revolutionary War, on May 10, 1796, when the French forces, under Napoleon’s rule, went head-to-head with Austrian forces, led by Karl Philipp Sebottendorf. While Napoleon was successful in this campaign, it was not a decisive battle, but one that led Napoleon to believe that he was superior to other generals and destined to achieve great things. A couple blocks from the river we found an interesting statue of Napoleon Bonaparte and a commemorative plaque.
Sights in LodiNapoleon Bonaparte bridge, spanning the Adda river
As we continued our walk, we discovered a quaint little courtyard filled with plates decorating the walls. Not sure if it was attached to an artist’s studio, it was fun looking at all the displays. There were lots of little shops and cafes along the way, many closed for a few hours in the afternoon, but the best one was Gelateria Umberto. Who can resist a couple of scoops of gelato in the afternoon? Not me!
Shops of Lodi
Gelato snack!
San Felippo Neri Church
Archway over Corso Umberto I
Finally, we made it to the Piazza della Vittoria (Victory Square), where the Lodi Cathedral (Duomo) takes the center stage.
Lodi Cathedral
Founded in 1158, the cathedral was completed in two phases, the second, being carried on from 1170 and the façade being completed in 1284. The brick entrance that faces the Piazza is Gothic in style, however, the overall building is Romanesque with a massive bell tower which was left unfinished.
Lodi Cathedral Entrance
As we entered the massive church, the largest in northern Italy and seat of the Bishop of Lodi, we were amazed with how much there was to see within its walls. Looking down the nave toward the altar, there were two staircases on either side. At the back of the church there were multiple tombs and along each wall, multiple side chapels, the most impressive being a simple niche containing a 15th century, full-size wooden depiction of Christ, his disciples and his blessed mother, Mary. The church is also connected on the left to the Bishop’s Palace and a court which is the remaining part of a cloister dating back to 1484.
Lodi Cathedral
Lodi CathedralLodi CathedralLodi Cathedral
Lodi Cathedral
Lodi CathedralLodi Cathedral
Up the right-hand staircase, we found the entrance to the crypt, which features a 12th century bas-relief and is the oldest section of the cathedral. In the center of the crypt is an altar dating back to 1856, which houses the remains of Saint Bassianus in a beautifully bedecked silver case. On the left-hand side of the high altar is the altar of Saint Alberto Quadrelli, Bishop of Lodi from 1168 to 1173.
Bishop’s Palace
Court remains of 15th century cloister
Once our explorations of the cathedral were complete, we headed back into the Piazza, formerly known as the Piazza Maggiore until 1924. The town hall is located here as well as the Vistarini Palace, one of the most beautiful in the city. Porticos which protect cafe tables from the sun and the elements, line the edges of the square and it is quite colorful and scenic. It is definitely the heart of the city today where the residents meet for conversation, children play games and the local market is held on Tuesdays and Thursdays in contrast to the fairs, festivals and executions which took place during Medieval times. As countless bishops have traversed the square over time, it even saw the arrival of Pope John Paul II in 1992.
Piazza della Vittoria
Piazza della Vittoria
Vistarini Palace
Spying another tall bell tower down one of the streets branching off of the Piazza, we set off on foot attempting to find what lay beneath. While the church we found was closed, our curiosity led us to an even greater discovery, Il Templo dell’Incoronata.
Chiesa di Santa Maria del SoleSights in LodiSights in LodiTempio delle Incoronata
At the end of the 15th century, a brothel with a painting of an image of the Virgin Mary was located in the area known today as via Incoronata. It is said that in September of 1487, the image of the Virgin Mary wept and called on those present to build a temple dedicated to her on that site…Tempio delle Incoronata or the Temple of the Crowned.
Tempio delle IncoronataEntrance
Tempio delle Incoronata(Rear View)
With the assistance of all citizens of Lodi, the Temple of the City was erected and became one of the most beautiful buildings of Renaissance Lombardy. Started in 1488 by Giovanni Battagio, a pupil of Bramante, it was completed in 1503, by Lorenzo Maggi, and a portico was added in the late 15th century and the loggia in 1882. It was through two small doors in the portico that we entered, only because we were being nosy when we saw other tourists exit. Walking a short distance thru a small, dark hallway, our inquisitiveness was rewarded with one of the most spectacular church interiors that we had both ever laid eyes on.
Tempio delle IncoronataTempio delle IncoronataTempio delle IncoronataTempio delle Incoronata
The octagonal space was surrounded by arches on the lower level, an altar and an octagonally domed ceiling all highlighted by copious amounts of gilt. Every space not covered in gold was decorated with paintings, most completed by three generations of the Piazza family, who were founding the most prestigious painting school in Italy. It was almost indescribable! The only disappointing part was that we were not there on Sunday when the underground space below the monumental sacristy is open to the public. In this museum space, there are three different rooms housing rare and unique works of sacred art and objects attesting to the importance of the sanctuary.
Tempio delle IncoronataTempio delle Incoronata
Giddy with excitement, we headed back out into the city, taking a roundabout route back to the train station. Spotting the Church of San Lorenzo, we ducked inside, perhaps to say a few prayers for our expeditious return to Milan since we were hearing rumblings of a train strike.
Church of San Lorenzo
The city’s oldest church, after the cathedral, was built in the 12th and 13th centuries. A typical Romanesque-style church, we noticed an image of Saint Lorenzo, above the altar, to whom the church is dedicated. There were several works of art within the church and beautiful architectural details including the apse above the choir with 16th century stucco adornments by Abbondio da Ascona and a fresco of a Resurrected Christ by Callisto Piazza.
Church of San LorenzoChurch of San Lorenzo
Church of San Lorenzo
Church of San Lorenzo
Glancing at our watches, we noted the time and set off once again, finding ourselves in the Piazza di Castello. The Visconti Castle spread out before us, including the Torrione di Lodi (Tower of Lodi). The castle was founded in the 12th century by a member of the Visconti family, the Lord and Dukes of Milan who in the 13th and 14th centuries took possession of and then rebuilt the original fortification. In 1456, Francesco Sforza added a round tower to the northern corner of the castle which eventually (20th century) was converted to a water tower. It has since become a landmark of Lodi greeting those who arrive into the city. Today, the castle is the seat of the Questura of Lodi, the local office of the Italian Ministry of the Interior. As we studied the exterior of the castle, we realized that we would have liked to have seen more of it, however, it is not open to the public and even if it had been, we had that train to catch!
Piazza di Castello
Visconti Castle and Torrione di Lodi (Tower of Lodi)
Walking quickly, we headed to the train station. Catching sight of the pink-hued building with its statue dedicated to Amatori Wasken Lodi, the city’s roller hockey team(yes, really…), and the time on the station’s clock, we knew that we had made it in time to get back to Milan for our dinner reservation!
Lodi Train Station and statue dedicated to Amatori Wasken Lodi
While Lodi had not been on our radar as one of the Italian cities we wanted to visit initially, we were so glad that we had found that video prior to our trip which was the inspiration for a wonderful day. Being so close to Milan was a bonus, but the biggest reward was the multitude of attractions that the city has to offer and getting to share it with my friend, Cristina!
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“Don’t cry because it’s over. Smile because it happened.” – Dr. Seuss
Our last morning. It was a day of mixed emotions…sad to be packing up and leaving the beautiful country of Croatia, but also glad to have had the wonderful experiences during our vacation…the good (the weather, the amazing apartments, new friends), the bad (not making it to Mostar, “vampire” flyovers) and the ugly (putting the rental car in a precarious position)!
There were so many things that we had been able to enjoy and see during our stay and it wasn’t quite over, I would soon discover. While we had seen most of what makes Dubrovnik special, it still had one more surprise up its sleeve on this day.
As we locked up our Airbnb and headed to the Stradun and past the Dominican Monastery, we booked our Uber to the airport. Following the pickup directions, we soon learned that there was yet another gate to the old town that we had yet to find…Vrata od Ploča.
Vrata od Ploča (the gate from Ploče) is the eastern entrance to Dubrovnik’s old town, built in 1450. Exiting through it, passing the inner door topped with a figure of St. Vlaho, we walked over a stone bridge which spanned a moat and a wooden lifting bridge and received stunning views of the harbor, thanks to our efforts.
Vrata od Ploča
Vrata od Ploča
A large flock of pigeons sat on the nearby walls and under the trees, eyeing us warily as we walked by. Suddenly, without warning, they took us by surprise as they all took flight in one great motion. Flapping their wings, it was if they were both saying goodbye and showing us that it was time for us to fly home too.
Sculpture along the waterfront
After our short ride to Čilipi International Airport, we too were soaring above the Croatian coastline. Spotting Dubronik almost immediately and then the Pakleni and Elafiti Islands, as well as Split, we happily reflected on the good memories we had shared…and even the bad and the ugly ones…because, it takes all kinds to make a trip what it is, in the end!
Croatia from the sky.
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Vrata od Ploča
Address: Ul. Vrata od Ploča, 20000, Dubrovnik, Croatia
This was our final day in Croatia. It needed to count.
Since my husband had been a good sport and seen many churches and monasteries with me over the past week, I decided to give him a break. He wanted to walk around and look at his own leisure. Me? I wanted to go to the Franciscan Monastery and the Cathedral of Dubrovnik, also known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary.
The Franciscan Monastery has an interesting history in that it contains one of the oldest pharmacies in the world. The complex, built around 1317, was initially located outside of the city gates. Moved due to the threat of war, it now stands just inside the Pile Gate and can be visited regularly which is where I headed first.
Entrance to the Franciscan Monastery Museum
Located beside the Holy Savior Church and built by the Franciscans who arrived in Dubrovnik around 1234, it contains two cloisters; one built in the Renaissance style with grand arches and the other in the Romanesque and Gothic styles boasting 120 columns. The Renaissance cloisters were much like many others I had seen before, however, it was the upper cloisters that I longed to see with its carved columns depicting animals and humans, which were not open to the public.
Once one of the wealthiest churches in the city, it was largely destroyed by the earthquake of 1667. Today, only part of its treasury is on display, however, it is the pharmacy, dating back to 1317 that people come for. Since the Franciscans are known for their devotion to the sick, the pharmacy aided their mission but also served the public, giving the friars a steady income. On display, you can see many of the old manuscripts that the friars used in the creation of their pharmaceuticals as well as the tools of their trade. You can also stop into the actual pharmacy to make any medical purchases you may need.
Franciscan Monastery Treasury and MuseumFranciscan Monastery Treasury and Museum
After my tour was complete, I headed to the Dubrovnik Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, making my way through the endless passageways and streets that make up the city. I had passed by this cathedral numerous times, but had not had the time to enter and discover what made it so special and the seat of the Diocese of Dubrovnik.
Sights in Dubrovnik
Sights in Dubrovnik
Sights in Dubrovnik
Sights in Dubrovnik
Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
Built on the site of several formal cathedrals dating back to the 7th, 10th, 11th and 12th centuries, this Baroque church was completed in 1713 after the previous had also been destroyed in the earthquake of 1667.
Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
While it is the large dome that dominates the interior, it appears to be more modern than its 1700s origins. The main altar is decorated with carved panels which portray the Assumption of the Virgin and its treasury contains 182 relics from different regents; relics from the head, arm, and leg of Dubrovnik patron saint St Blasius, sacral dishes from the 13th to 18th centuries, and a large number of precious paintings. These relics are displayed in a small chapel from which you can gain access by paying a small entrance fee. Photographs are prohibited, but since I was the only visitor there at the time, I was able to capture a few, the most captivating displaying the gilded ceiling centered with a cherubic composition.
Chapel of the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
Chapel of the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
An interesting note about the cathedral is that it is said that while Richard the Lionheart was shipwrecked in Dubrovnik in 1192, he contributed a great sum towards the building of the cathedral, hoping to gain favor in the eyes of the Lord for his survival.
After my explorations were complete and my husband and I had a quick lunch, we stopped by our apartment to don more appropriate boat gear and lather up for an afternoon in the Croatian sun! Heading down to the port, we waited for Ivusa who picked us up promptly at our designated time.
Dodging the intermittent boat traffic in the harbor, we were soon on our way, passing the walls of the city, which we had stood upon a week ago, looking out on this very same water that we were now cruising through. It was a beautiful day with only a few clouds in the sky, although not extremely hot as it was now the beginning of October.
Port of DubrovnikWalls of Dubrovnik’s Old TownElafiti IslandsElafiti Islands
The Elafiti Islands’ scenery was absolutely gorgeous and we sipped upon ice cold beers that Ivusa procured from a chest he had brought for the occasion. Pulling into a small cave, he displayed his expert boatmanship, maneuvering easily in the small space so we could see its interior. A little further up the rocky coast, he cut off the engine and showed us a small opening just above the water. Other boats had pulled up in this area and a few people were swimming toward the opening. This was the Blue Cave that I had seen in my friend’s pictures and we were invited to jump on in and have a look!
Cave in the Elafiti Islands
Now, while my son and I were in Capri, we took a boat into the Blue Grotto…it was much hotter there at the time, but I didn’t have to swim in cold water…into a small space. As an advanced scuba diver, you would think that I wouldn’t have been as nervous as I was, but as I eyed my husband in the water, waiting on me, I decided that you can’t pass up an opportunity and jumped right in. When I tell you that the water was cold…well, I can’t even describe how it took my breath away. For good measure, I took a small float with me and swam for dear life toward the opening!
As we ducked under the water and into the small cave, I suddenly forgot that my feet were numb and marveled at the color of the water as we faced the opening. Simply amazing!
The Blue Cave in the Elafiti Islands
Successfully making it back to the boat, we were on our way again in the island chain, pulling into the harbor of Sudurad. I had told Ivusa that I loved visiting churches and he said that this small island contained approximately thirty churches which were built in the middle ages. Many were in a ruined state, but as we pulled adjacent to the dock, he pointed out a tower Pakljena from 1529 and the Church of the Holy Spirit which contains a flat roof, the largest of its kind in the Adriatic.
Sudurad
My husband and I set out on foot to do some quick explorations, passing small restaurants and facilities offering olive oil and wine tastings, as the island cultivates a great quantity of olives, grapes as well as figs.
Sudurad
Sudurad
Sudurad
Sudurad
Sudurad
Our visit was short and we headed back to the boat to continue our tour, soon pulling up to the dock in Lopud. A much larger island than Sudurad, we decided to head (yes, at my suggestion) towards the church tower, which, coincidentally we discovered was a Franciscan Monastery built in 1493! The church and grounds were open for inspection and we took our time enjoying the view from the hilltop.
LopudLopud
Lopud
Franciscan Monastery
Franciscan Monastery
Afterward, we made our way back along the western waterfront, browsing the shops, admiring the sandy beach and popping in to see a small chapel, Crkva Bezgresno zacece BDMarije, which I presume belongs to the Catholic Church, though I couldn’t find more information after visit. We enjoyed more of the scenery and a beer and then headed back to the boat and a waiting Ivusa.
LopudLopudChapelLopud
The day was growing late and the sun getting lower in the sky. Heading back toward Dubrovnik in the waning light, Ivusa ensured that we had the best sunset views. As we approached Dubrovnik, it was dark and the hilltop lights sparkled on the water. Quite the magical ending to a magical day…and of course, a magical week!
Sunset in the Elafiti Islands
Sunset in the Elafiti Islands
Dubrovnik Night Lights
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All good things must come to an end, but better things may be in store.
Our time exploring other parts of Croatia was complete, but we were leaving beautiful little Hvar Town, heading back to the beautiful city of Dubrovnik and now we knew what to expect. There were many things we wanted to do and see, including our new friend, Ivusa.
Our ferry from Hvar Town to Dubrovnik
The ferry ride was a bit longer this time, but included a stop to pick up and deposit other passengers in Korčula. Since I was able to grab a spot on the back deck as we made our way to the dock, I had prime viewing of the beautiful old city. Why didn’t we spend a few days here? Definitely next time!
Lovely Korčula!
Four hours later, after our departure from Hvar, we were disembarking in Dubrovnik and catching a taxi to the Old Town. Our Airbnb, this time, was within the Old Town city walls…in fact, it was adjacent to Stradun, the city’s main pedestrian street, so a bit more convenient in that we didn’t have to climb twenty-two billion stairs!
Martecchini Airbnb apartment
After depositing our luggage in our room, we were off!
The Dominican Monastery, just around the corner, was first on our list. Dating back to the 14th century, the monastery is one of the most important architectural landmarks in the city and contains a great number of paintings, artifacts, jewelry and other items from Dubrovnik’s history. Its bell towers are prominent when walking the walls of the city, however, these not quite being as old as the monastery itself. Begun in the 16th century, they were only completed in the 18th.
Within the monastery, is the Gothic church of Saint Dominic, usually richly decorated and filled with treasures including the large golden crucifix above the main altar from the 14th century. Under construction at the time, we had to use our imaginations in order to “see” what it usually presents. The monastery museum was also quite intriguing with its vast jewelry collection and paintings from the Dubrovnik art school from the 15th and 16th centuries.
Churchof St. Dominic
Treasures from the Dominican Monastery MuseumTreasures from the Dominican Monastery MuseumTreasures from the Dominican Monastery Museum
Making our way through the abbey, we noted the Capital Hall, where the monastic community held its meetings, and the porches of the cloister which were added in the 15th century. Within the cloister is a rich green oasis complete with a stone well crown and I would imagine this was a favorite place for the residents to relax and enjoy nature’s beauty.
After our visit was complete, we walked a short distance, past the clock tower, to the Church of St. Blaise. The steps of this church is both a meeting place, due to its central location near the clock tower, and a resting place, perfect for people watching. We also noticed that many from the community congregate here, including the children, who play games on the steps and in Luza Square in front of the church.
Clock Tower
Church of St. BlaiseChurch of St. Blaise
The interior of this church did not disappoint my “church fascination” with its beautifully decorated golden altar, taking my breath away when I entered. Named after the patron saint of Dubrovnik, the church was built in 1715, by Venetian architect and sculptor Marino Gropelli on the foundations of a past Romanesque medieval church. This saint is featured on the main altar in gilt silver, crafted in the 15th century by an unknown master. In the saint’s left hand is a scale model of the Romanesque church which was destroyed by the earthquake of 1667 and he is flanked by two kneeling angels. This statue was the only one which survived the fire of 1706.
Church of St. Blaise
In front of the church is another of Dubrovnik’s landmarks, Orlando’s column. Unfortunately, this was under renovation and closed off by metal fencing. This tall and slender stone flag column is decorated with a depiction of a medieval knight, Orlando, who according to legend, helped the people of old Dubrovnik defeat invaders in the middle ages. A monument to freedom, it details the help aquired to remain a free trade city-state and acts as a flag holder which displays the Libertas (freedom) flag as well as the St. Blaise festival flag. An interesting note about the statue; the knight’s forearm is 51.25 centimeters long, the standard Dubrovnik measurement for fabric, where local merchants were measuring, cutting and selling fabric.
Orlando’s Column (under construction)
Orlando’s Column courtesy of justdubrovnik.com
A little further down the Stradun, we headed into the Franciscan Church. Much as I wanted to visit the Monastery and Museum, I decided to wait until the next morning as I thought that seeing another monastery was probably not what my husband had in mind. The church was a good compromise as the afternoon was nearing its end and he was anxious to start happy hour and revisit Lady Pipi restaurant which was near this location.
A large complex, consisting of the church, monastery, library, and pharmacy, belonging to the Order of the Friars Minor, was built in 1317, but with its construction taking centuries to complete. The original church was destroyed in the earthquake of 1667 and much of the complex was rebuilt several times with the only remaining element being the decorated portal which overlooks the main street.
Franciscan Church
Franciscan Church
The Baroque interior was stunning as we entered through the main doors with its diagonally patterned tile floor and and large, gilded chandelier. The main altar contained a statue of Christ between four twisted marble columns and the five side altars were sculpted by Venetian Giuseppe Sardi between 1684 and 1696. An important side note, we learned, is that poet Ivan Gundulić is buried in the church.
Continuing our explorations, we decided to see more of what lay beyond the gates. A short walk past the Pile Gate, through which we had entered earlier on our return, brought us past the Amerling Fountain, the overlook for the Beach Sulic, which we would later realize was the place Cersei Lannister on Game of Thrones would stand, the Imperial Hilton Hotel and almost to the Church of St. Elizabeth, a small chapel. Heading back to the Old Town, we wandered through its streets and alleyways appreciating the architecture and its beauty.
Amerling Fountain
Overlook for the Beach SulicSites outside Dubrovnik’s Pile Gate
Imperial Hilton Hotel
Chapel of St. Elizabeth
Dubrovnik’s Pile GateOld Town SitesOld Town SitesOld Town SitesOld Town Sites
At this point, my husband was truly at the end of his touring mode…but I spotted the Church of the Holy Annunciation. Promising only a quick peek, I ducked in and inspected the Serbian Orthodox church which was constructed in 1887. Though I was only inside for a few moments, I learned later that this impressive church has a huge collection of icons dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries within its museum and an impressive library containing over 12,000 volumes, including a gospel in Russian printed in Moscow in 1805.
Church of the Holy Annunciation
Finally, it was time for the long walk up the stairs for our grilled seafood platter “A La Pipi”!
“It’s about time!” said my husband. Long days definitely lead to good things!
Old Town at Night
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With so much to see and do in Split, we knew that we had to be up with the birds and out the door early! What each of us wanted to experience, however, was a bit different, so we decided to do what we could together and then split up later in the day.
While Saint Domnius was right outside our window, it was still an hour or so from its opening so we decided to start our explorations along the waterfront and then loop back around into the main part of the city.
View outside our window of Saint Dominus’ Belfry
Being such an ancient city, there were many ruins that we encountered as we made our way to the Riva. Passing the Church of Bana Jelačića, we made our way around the harbor to the West Bank, admiring the boats along the way…some we could only wish to ever travel on! Set in the walkway along the water were bronze plaques commemorating Croatian athletes who had medaled in past Olympic games.
Ruins and sites along the wayCroatian Olympians WalkwayScenic Riva of SplitAlong the waterfront.
Reaching Sustipan Park, we decided that this would be our turning point and we headed back toward the city center along the cobblestone streets amidst the ancient stone buildings. There were interesting things to see along the way…cute cafes, wall art, sculpture, historic buildings, souvenir stands, museums. Passing through Fruit Square, we stopped for a moment to inspect the statue of Marko Marulic, the famous Croatian and Split author, designed by Ivan Meštrović.
Fruit Square
Eventually, we found ourselves at the Iron Gate (West Gate) of the Diocletian Palace. The four gates of the palace have been preserved and we had spotted the Silver Gate (East Gate) upon our arrival while attempting to find our Airbnb. The Iron Gate is an interesting piece of architecture with its bell tower (connected to the chapel of Our Lady of the Bell Tower) and unique clock with twenty-four digits instead of the usual twelve. This gate, originally a military gate from which troops entered the complex, is the only one that has remained in continuous use to this day. While a sculpture of Nike, the Roman goddess of Victory once stood on the horizontal beam, it was removed and later replaced with an engraved cross. Today, there is another sculpture to the right as you approach from the west.
Iron Gate
As I mentioned, we were staying within the Diocletian Palace, however, when I had opted to make Split a part of our travel plans, I had imagined that this palace was one to visit, much like Buckingham in London or Pena in Sintra. Not being the case, I learned that this ancient structure was built as a retirement residence for the Roman emperor Diocletian at the turn of the fourth century AD. Forming about half of the Old Town of Split, the term palace is a bit misleading as it resembles more of a large fortress with about half of it once marked for Diocletian’s personal use and the rest as a military garrison. Today, it is filled with shops, apartments and museums.
Winding our way through the palace’s many passages and courtyards, we found ourselves on the north side. Here was the Golden Gate (North Gate), which was originally the main gate from which Diocletian entered the complex and probably the gate the Emperor entered after his abdication from the imperial throne. The church of St. Martin can be found above the gate and is usually open to the public, but much to my dismay, on this particular day it was not.
North Gate and Benedictine Monastery remains.
Outside the gate, however, we found the remains of the Benedictine monastery of St. Euphemia. The small chapel that remains, sits alongside the palace walls in Giardin Park, as well as its 18th century bell tower. Dating back to 1069, this convent was dedicated to Saint Arnir, the Archbishop of Split who was stoned to death in 1180. The complex was destroyed by fire in 1888 and demolished in 1945 except for the tower and the small chapel. On the nearby steps leading to the palace is the colossal statue of Grgur Ninski. The bronze effigy symbolizes the Bishop of Nin (900-929) who was notorious for instructing the churches in his diocese to celebrate mass in the Croatian Glagolic language, instead of Latin, resulting in the loss of his stature.
Statue of Grgur Ninski
Entering the palace again, we headed toward the Silver Gate (East Gate), which was nearest to our apartment. While still standing strong, it is the least composed compared to the three others and was once incorporated into the Church of Dušica, destroyed during World War II. With many vendors adjacent to the entrance, we took a moment to grab a water and browse.
Silver Gate
Deciding that it was time to tackle Saint Dominus Cathedral, we headed in that direction, but first, stopping to inspect the Renaissance Church of Saint Roche, built in 1516 and which is now housing the Tourist Information office. Walking through the Peristyle, we entered the ticket office to purchase the tickets needed for the three parts of the Saint Dominus visit; the Cathedral, the Treasury and the Belfry.
Renaissance Church of Saint Roche
Peristyle
Since the Treasury was within the same building as the ticket office, we decided to start there, making our way through the four upper floors which house the church’s extensive artifact and art collection.
Treasury
Treasury
Treasury
Next, we headed across the Peristyle to the Church. Since no one was in line for the Belfry, we decided to make the climb first. While I admit, I was a bit winded from the many stairs to the top, the views from this perspective were unreal. The city spread out before us, with its orange hued roofs and the waters of the port lay to our south and mountains to our north. We could see the ferries readied for their island journeys in the harbor…our mode of transport for the next day.
Saint Dominus Belfry
Saint Dominus Belfry
Saint Dominus Belfry
The cathedral, originally built as Diocletian’s mausoleum was converted into a church by refugees from Salona in the 7th century. As we entered we admired the massive wooden doors, protected by glass, decorated with carvings that depict scenes from the life of Christ. Inside the church, the altar, dating back to the 15th century, holds court with its gilded ceiling and accoutrements and is flanked on the rear with the cathedral’s organ pipes. In the rear of the altar, is the choir decorated with dark paintings and wooden pews and above, the cathedral’s domed ceiling.
Saint Dominus CathedralSaint Dominus CathedralSaint Dominus Cathedral
As we exited the cathedral, we made our way to the Crypt of Saint Lucy, located beneath the church. A relatively simple area, it is constructed of stone walls and centered with a altar topped with a statue of the Blessed Virgin.
Crypt of Saint Lucy
Exiting the church, we entered, once again, the Peristyle, the popular meeting place that retains its use as it did in Roman times. There are beautiful carvings within the space, including the famous Sphinx. Impossible to miss, this 9 foot tall black granite statue sits on a ledge between the cathedral and the Peristyle, guarding the mausoleum. This impressive piece of art, the oldest artifact in the city, was brought to Split by Diocletian from Egypt as a war trophy after the Egyptian uprising was pacified by the Romans in 297-298 AD. Originating in the era of Pharaoh Tuthomosis the 3rd, it was one of twelve sphinxes that was commissioned by the Emperor.
SphinxArchitecture and sculpture in the Peristyle.
Finally, we walked over to the Baptistery, the Temple of Jupiter, located in a narrow passageway on the west side of the Peristyle. The classical temple, built in Roman times, has a richly decorated portal and a vaulted ceiling. It was converted into a baptistery during the Middle Ages and an 11th century baptismal font was placed within. This font, decorated with stone carvings portraying a Croatian ruler on his throne. There is also a statue of St. John the Baptist and the sarcophagi of the Bishops of Split. Built around the 3rd century, the temple, which was one of the last such temples of its kind constructed within the Roman world, was named after Diocletian’s father, Jupiter. On the outside of the temple is another of the sphinx’s that was brought by Diocletian.
Baptistery and Temple of Jupiter
Since we had has such a long day, my husband was ready to relax in our apartment for a while. Me? Not so much! So we decided to split up for a few hours and each enjoy what we wanted. I still had souvenirs to purchase and I wanted to visit Diocletian’s Cellars located in the front of the Palace near the Brass Gate, the main entry point from the Promenade to the Cathedral. Often referred to as the “basement halls”, these cellars were constructed to partly elevate the Emperor’s chambers as well as a storage area for food and wine of the palace. During the Middle Ages, it was used as a residential area and later, as a water storage facility. Today, it is a relatively empty space that can be appreciated for it architectural prowess, but you can also inspect the remnants of a large press used in the production of wine, a nymphaeum and a marble table from the Emperor’s dining room.
The end of our day brought us to a fantastic recommendation by our Airbnb host, Ines…Villa Spiza. The thirty minute wait at this local restaurant was extremely worth it for the delicious entrees it served up…my fave, smelt!
With a full stomach, we headed back to our apartment noting the live music being performed in the Peristyle. Once inside, we opened up our windows and a bottle of wine and enjoyed the nighttime sounds of the Split!
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Hours: June-September, 0800-2000, daily. October and May, 0700-noon and 1700-1900, daily. November-April, 0700-noon.
Admission: There are four types of tickets to choose from. Blue ticket (50 kn) includes 3 sites: The Cathedral, Crypt, Baptistery. Green ticket (70 kn) includes 3 sites: The Cathedral, Bell tower, Treasury. Red ticket (60 kn) includes 4 sites: The Cathedral, Crypt, Baptistery, Treasury. Purple ticket (80kn) includes all 5 sites: The Cathedral, Crypt, Baptistery, Treasury, Bell tower.
Returning from Montenegro the night before, we met up with a couple of friends who were also on vacation, for dinner and drinks. They had arranged to do a boat tour of the nearby islands with a gentleman who had been taking many of my co-workers out for an afternoon in the sun.
When I had confirmed my Airbnb with Antonia, our host, she asked on what airline and what time we would be arriving. Giving her this information, I didn’t mention that I worked for the airline, but she volunteered that her husband had been taking out the crews on his boat. Amazingly, it was the same person who had taken out my friends! His name was Ivusa!
As we enjoyed cocktails, they raved about what an amazing experience it was. At that precise moment, deciding that we also needed this experience, I texted Antonia and asked her if Ivusa could take us out when we returned to Dubrovnik in six days.
The next morning, as we packed our car and readied for our departure to Bosnia and Split, Ivusa came out and introduced himself. A friendly guy, we discussed our travel plans and plans for our return the next weekend. Having heard of our rental car woes, Ivusa, probably worried that we would get off on the wrong foot, graciously offered to drive our car up the hill. Thank goodness!
Saying goodbye, we prepared ourselves for the long day ahead.
We had planned to make our way to Mostar and Medjugoria, Bosnia and then continue on to Split, where we would spend two nights in the Diocletian Palace. Checking the route, we determined that while the GPS routing was through the mountains, we felt like we should take a secondary route which hugged the coastline until we reached the town of Neum. Besides, it would be more scenic!
Starting our trip, we drove along, enjoying the stunning views. Finally, our GPS began directing us to take a turn. Following the commands, we drove towards Neum, but instead of the original routing, it had us follow another road. Not anything that seemed like a major highway, we hesitantly followed the directions. Next thing, we ended up on a dirt road, heading up a mountain. The road narrowed and as I studied the GPS map, I realized that if we continued on this passage, we were going to cross into Bosnia. Yes, that was the intent, but there was no way that there was going to be a border crossing on the side of a mountain and we risked crossing illegally. Not wanting to be wanted in another country, we decided that we should turn around…this was no small feat. The road we were on was extremely narrow and dropped off precariously on our left. Somehow…and to this day, I am not sure how…we got the car turned around and didn’t look back.
Our luck with this rental car had not been good so far and we had lost so much time following the GPS instructions, we decided that continuing on to Split would be best for us. Finally, making it back to the coastal road, we eventually crossed into Bosnia and then back into Croatia. I even jumped out of the car and stood for a moment, so that I could say that I had been in Bosnia!
Hercegovacko-Neretvanski, Bosnia
The drive to Split was extremely long and aside from a stop in Neretva, Croatia, to enjoy the lake views of the Valley of Life, we plodded along, praying to get there in one piece and return the car.
Neretva, Croatia, The Valley of LifeNeretva, Croatia, The Valley of Life
After an agonizing five hours of driving, we made it to the Split Airport. We can’t stress enough how relieved we were to hand over the keys to the car and have someone else do the driving for the rest of our trip!
Scenes along the way.
With a short Uber ride to the old part of town, we could finally breath a sigh of relief and relax for a moment. During the day, I had been in contact with the Airbnb owner and she was expecting our arrival.
As we were dropped off at the entrance to Diocletian Palace, I looked around and wasn’t sure where to head. Although I had marked the apartment’s location on my map, it was quite confusing as we made our way through Diocletian’s Palace. Finally, as we stood between Saint Domnius Cathedral and the Silver Gate, glancing frantically around, trying to figure out which way to turn, I heard my name. Thankfully, Ines had come to look for us and two people looking confused with suitcases was enough to convince her that she had the right people!
Walking thru the Peristyle, looking for our apartment.Where Ines found us!
Leading us into a nearby building, I noticed right away, the peeling paint and the newly built, but unfinished, stairway. It was only two nights, right?
But, when we reached the apartment on the topmost floor, I remembered why we had booked this particular unit. It was absolutely stunning and overlooked the Cathedral of Saint Domnius. After giving us a brief tour, Ines explained that because of the apartment’s location within the Diocletian Palace, a UNESCO Heritage Site, all renovations have to be approved by the government. While nothing can be done to the exteriors of the building and not much to the stairwells, more can be done to the interior, within their guidelines. Therefore, while almost everything within the apartment was new, the interior stone walls were original to the palace…dating back to the fourth century! When they say, “If Walls Could Talk!”
Peristyle Emperor Suite
View outside our window!
Finally on our own, we quickly unpacked and headed out to see what we could within the city in the waning afternoon. Saving the Cathedral for the next day when we had more time, we eventually ended up on the Riva, the bustling waterfront and boardwalk. Grabbing a couple of beers, we also grabbed a seat and enjoyed the close of our day with the setting sun.
The RivaSunset along the Riva.
Walking back through the palace, we enjoyed the live music being performed in the Peristyle and discovered that it could be heard perfectly from the opened windows of our apartment. And after dinner, this is what we did…enjoyed our VIP seating and the beautiful music on our first night in Split.
The Peristyle at night.Nighttime in Diocletian’s Palace.
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