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Bucket List item number 34…climb a volcano.
I was finally going to get my chance in Guatemala.
After our arrival, we had set up a tour to climb Pacaya. Though the tour we booked was to be conducted in Spanish, we decided that we could make it work.
Picked up from our hotel, we endured a longer than normal drive due to the heavy traffic. Arriving at the Visitors’ Center in the village of San Francisco de Sales, late in the afternoon, there were so many tour buses and hikers, we were afraid that we would lose our group. Maybe the tour being in Spanish wasn’t such a good idea after all!
After paying our park entrance fee and saying “No, gracias” fifty times when asked if I wanted to buy a hiking stick by the hordes of children hoping to make a few quetzals, our group of approximately fifteen hikers and a tour guide, finally set out on the uphill trail.
No sooner than we began the uphill climb, I began to have a bit of trouble. Now, I’m no Olympic athlete, but I do go to the gym fairly regularly. And yes, I am over the hill, but the altitude and steepness of the climb, however, was no joke. Thankfully, three young men following our group with horses, came to the rescue. You can bet I climbed up on that horse’s back quicker than you can say, “Lava”.
At every lookout point and rest area, I watched everyone sweating profusely and breathing heavy. Me? I just hopped off my horse and attempted to capture the views of the Laguna De Calderas and Mirador Majahue, neither of which we could get a good glimpse of due to the low clouds.
My ride was enjoyable and I suspected we were close to the top when the clouds descended upon us. Separated from the rest of the group, me and another horse rider, were guided up another trail to where the horses are kept and traded out.
Everything was white (and windy) and I was quite ecstatic that I had not exerted myself for no view. As I blindly ambled across the lava field, I saw the Lava Store and thought, “Well, at least I have something to take a picture of…”
Finally, hearing voices in the distance, the rest of the group made their way toward us. As if on cue, the clouds seemed to dissipate a bit and just over the ridge, we could see lava streaming down the side of the volcano!
Thinking about the earthquake a couple of nights prior, it was a bit disconcerting, yet thrilling at the same time! Were we tempting fate? What if there was another earthquake at that moment and it shifted the flow?
Possible? Maybe? But I am no seismologist! And I am definitely not a volcanologist!
Instead of worrying, I happily accepted my stick and marshmallows from my guide and made my way to the heat vents to roast my snack. Amazingly, the heat (probably enough to melt the soles of our shoes if you stood in one location long enough), was sufficient to brown and make them a gooey, bunch of goodness!
Feeling as though we had worn out our welcome, it was time to appease the volcano gods and vacate their unstable residence.
Hopping on my horse, my Guatemalan hostler led me back down the steep path to where our hike originated. Though we were far from the lava flow at this point, I have to admit, I felt as though we weren’t far enough.
Though it was thrilling to see, maybe I wasn’t quite loving the lava!
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Pacaya Volcano
- http://www.volcanpacaya.info/
- Admission: 50Q (about $6.50 US) for park admission, not covered by tour price. Tours run approximately $7-8 US per person and often conducted in Spanish.
- Getting There: Many tours are available through hotels and tour companies.
The wind was whipping and the temperature had plummeted as we stepped from the comfort of our car. From our altitudinous vantage point and through the fast-moving clouds, we caught our first glimpses of the beautiful Lagoa do Fogo.
Although we later learned that an 11 km hike, including a trail around the lake, was an option many serious nature enthusiasts choose, the one available here was a much shorter choice…only 4 km. Thankfully, we were somewhat prepared for the weather and the trails and we decided to tackle the task of a muddy, descent to the lake.
The sandy shores of the lake were a welcome respite from the precipitous slopes of the cliffs of the caldera and we spent some time enjoying the clear waters and stunning scenery. Even a little rain didn’t dampen our spirits, only the trail on the way up.
After the long, arduous climb back to the summit, some much needed water and a quick study of the map, it was decided that continuing on to the eastern coast would have to wait until another trip. It was a pity as there were some amazing things that I wanted to see along the way…Our Lady of Peace Chapel and the Lighthouse Arnel. We were quite hungry and decided to head back toward Ponta Delgada and its unique pineapple plantations.
After such a long growing period, it suddenly became clear why these organic pineapples were so expensive the in the San Miguel grocery stores!
Heading back to the harbor, we decided to take a walk around Ponta Delgada. Not wanting our visit to end, we meandered down many of the streets we had missed on our first afternoon in the town, admiring the architecture, and artwork…even taking a visit to the extensive shopping area which extends into the harbor.
As concerned as I was about the cows (I was warned that they tend to jump in front of cars! Hmm…yes, that was what I was told…), I was far more interested in the amazing scenic overlooks every few miles and the beautiful hydrangeas that lined the roadways.
Continuing onward, we soon found ourselves at the Miradouro da Vista do Rei, an overlook with views of Sete Cidades, the three mile wide caldera and its green and blue-hued lakes. According to legend, these lakes were formed from the tears of a shepherd and a princess who shared a forbidden love.
There is a parking area at the fork in the road with many trails leading into the crater. There is also an intriguing abandoned hotel located here which reminded me of a setting from a horror movie. Though it is now enclosed by a wall to keep intruders out, the wall is not high enough if you are really determined to see the rotting remains up close.
Continuing our journey, we soon found ourselves in Mosteiros, a seaside town on the northwest coast of San Miguel. Looking more like a Hawaiian postcard, this area boasts cliffs, rock formations, a black sand beach and blue water and is a great place to relax for a while. The waters are quite rough and more conducive to surfing than swimming but lifeguards were there to kee watch.
Rounding the northwest corner of the island, we drove through Bretanha, Remédios, Santa Bárbara, Santo António and Capelas, stopping to admire each overlook and the occasional church.
After a quick lunch in Ribeira Grande, we headed south. Our destination was Lagoa de Fogo, yet, we somehow ended up in Furnas. Furnas was on our itinerary for the next day, but we decided to alter our plans and take a look around a bit early.
Upon Canto’s death, he was laid to rest here beside his wife.
The chapel can be viewed from the path alongside the lake but you can also pay 3 euro to enter the José do Canto Forest Garden where you can inspect the chapel up close. The garden has nice trails, one of which leads to a high, narrow waterfall and many of the trees from around the world are labeled and includes a giant sequoia.
Upon your entry from the parking lot, make sure to pay attention to the Garden of Lagoa das Furnas on your left for the figures carved into the trees…it is also a great spot to have a picnic.
The Gilgal Sculpture Garden was the brainchild of LDS businessman Thomas Battersby Child, Jr, who also designed and created the space in the mid-twentieth century. The garden contains twelve original sculptures and over seventy stones engraved with scriptures, poems and literary texts all associated with the Mormon religion.
Another famous tree, not far from the Cleveland Oak, is the Survey Tree. This tree (also called Witness Tree) was used by surveyor, Thomas Orme in 1810, when measuring the Elizabeth Hayes Tract, as point “D”. This tract was the first land purchase by John Marsh, whose descendants still own Avery Island today. This Survey Tree and a live oak, which was designated point “A” are the oldest surviving witness trees in Louisiana.
Moving on, we finally arrived at my favorite part of the Jungle Gardens…The Torii Gate and the Buddha. The gate and the Buddha seem to be at odds with the Louisiana setting, yet fit so well amidst the tranquility of the gardens. It is possible that E.A. McIlhenny’s friends, Robert M. Youngs and Ernest B Tracy, knew exactly what his oasis needed when they gifted the magnificent Buddha statue to him in 1936. The Buddha was built for the Shonfa temple in northeast Peking when it was looted by a rebel General and sent to New York to be sold. Found in a warehouse Youngs and Tracy, they knew exactly where its new home should be. McIlhenny immediately decided on the location and began building a garden, temple and lagoon with arched stone bridge, filling the area with beautiful and rare Asian plants and tall Chinese bamboo. The serene setting is one to relish and you should spend adequate time here enjoying the peaceful atmosphere. Also, if you are lucky, you may encounter local Buddhists conducting ceremonies at various times during the year, most notably on Buddha’s birthday.
Once you’ve noticed the beautiful Chinese bamboo near the Buddha temple, you will notice that it grows everywhere in the gardens. In fact, Jungle Gardens houses one of the oldest timber bamboo groves in American. When E.A. McIlhenny decided to plant bamboo, it was with the idea that both the timber and edible shoots would be beneficial to the Louisiana economy and more than sixty-four species and varieties were introduced. Keep an eye out for the most interesting of the varieties still in existence, including the “Robert Young” near the Camillia Study Garden, the large, timber-type “Moso” and “Henon” bamboo near Bird City and a small patch of “Meyerii” bamboo located near the old Jungle Gardens entrance gate.
Just before reaching Bird City is the Palm Gardens. McIlhenny was facinated with palms and cacti and discovered that they grew well in this particular site, an old mining sand pit. Here you can discover Sago palms, Chinese Tung Oil trees as well as ferns and bamboo.
Just before the Sunken Gardens lies the former home of Edward Avery McIlhenny. Returning to Avery Island in 1898 and taking over the family business, he built this house near Bird City. The home was burned to the ground in 1925 and quickly rebuilt. The home is not open to the public and appears to be under some sort of construction. Maybe a home tour in the future?
Leaving the gardens, we made our way on to the main trail, winding our way steadily up the mountainside, crossing a few fixed bridges along the way. A short time later, we found our way to the first hanging bridge. A bit of a back log had us waiting a while to pass over…workers monitor the bridge and allow a limited number to cross the bridge at one time. Unfortunately, there are those who are not as considerate of other’s time and paused one to many times to take selfies and pictures of the surrounding area.
Finally, we made our way as steadily as possible across the shaky span, marveling at the clouds swirling around the treetops. From the bridges and the higher parts of the trails, epiphyte plants, birds, mammals and butterflies can be observed up close. Some of the high altitude birds include the bell bird and the Emerald Toucanette, while at lower elevations, toucans and turkey hens can be spied along with migratory birds of prey during the months from November to February. High altitude trees include Yema Huevo, Cirri and Pilon trees and in the lower regions, Caobilla, Fruta Dorada and Maquenque trees. Keep an eye out for frogs, snakes, lizards and mammels such as kinkajous, raccoons, margays, ocelots, pumas, jaguars and tapirs.
The trail spans almost two miles and can be covered in about two hours. Six more hanging bridges are spaced out on the trail, along with a waterfall and viewing area and a tunnel. Each of the bridges vary in length and believe it or not, after the first bridge, the crowds thin. Maybe visitors decide that one is enough. Maybe they think they are too shaky or they run out of time, but at the end of the trail, the last few bridges have no one on them, allowing ample time to enjoy the views from the center of the bridge.
Paying the admission, I joined my tour guide, Jason, as we made our way to the front of the property where all of the people were standing and pointing. High in the treetops, was a mother sloth holding her baby against her. Jason explained that this mother usually remains in that area, however, a couple of days before, she had made her way, with her baby, to the front of the property near the hut, to urinate and defecate (the only reason they leave the trees, once a week). Needless to say everyone present was quite excited!
Using the spotting scope that Jason had brought along, we watched the mother as she moved languidly, eating the leaves in her proximity.
Though the area was quite limited, I learned that there were many other things to discover within that small thicket. I really enjoyed finding both blue jeans poison dart frogs and a red-eyed tree frog, however, we were especially careful as fer de lance vipers are constantly spotted in the area. My favorite thing though, was a plant that appears to die when you touch it…the Mimosa Pudica is also known as the Sensitive Plant, Touch-Me-Not, Tickle Me Plant, Shame Plant or Humble Plant. A creeping annual or perennial flowering plant of the pea/legume family, it usually grows in shady areas under trees or shrubs. Found in Central and South America, in some Asian countries, and in the southern part of the United States, its compound leaves fold inward and droop when touched or shaken, defending itself from harm. Its leaves open a few minutes later.