Just because ruin has befallen something doesn’t mean it isn’t still beautiful.
The Belmead on the James dates back to 1845 when renowned American architect Alexander Jackson Davis, designed it for an eventual Civil War Brigadier General, Colonal Philip St. George Cocke. The Gothic Revival style plantation home was was built by enslaved people and set on 2,265 of rolling acres in Virginia’s historic Powhatan.
Now, here’s the part that the Catholic schoolgirl in me, gets excited…
In 1897, the Belmead was purchased by Mother Katharine Drexel, one of only two American-born Roman Catholic saints, and her sister, both nuns. The Sisters of the Blessed Sacrament transformed the plantation into two private schools, St. Francis de Sales, in a nearby Gothic towered building and St. Emma Agricultural and Industrial Institute on the Belmead property, both devoted to educating young African American and Native American students. Many distinguished students hailed from the two schools, including members of the world-class Tuskegee Airmen and Civil Rights leaders.
The school remained in operation until the 1970s. Most of the more than forty school buildings were destroyed, but three of the major historic structures still stand today. The Belmead mansion, a stone granary and St. Francis de Sales High School have fallen into disrepair, but one must always remember that beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
The photographer that set up the President’s Heads photo shoot that I had recently attended, John Plaschal, has an affinity for deterioration. Not only has he made a quite a name for himself by regularly attracting visitors to these presidential capitulums, he hosts weekend shoots at the historic sites of the Belmead and St. Francis de Sales.
The mansion is not ordinarily open to the general public, only through a partnership with John Plaschal photography, and it was truly a blessing to see it as in its current condition, it seems that its days may be numbered.
Beginning my exploration in the basement, I made my way through its ominous, darkened hallways and rooms, noting the closed-off stairways and ferns growing from the floors.
The main floor showcased many rooms including a kitchen, a sitting room and a library. Of particular fascination was the parlor, where a giant mirror lay in pieces on the floor in front of the fireplace. Though no one had been in the house since John’s last visit, it was considered odd that the mirror had fallen on its own from its secure place on the wall, its hook still in place. John explained that it is believed that the house is haunted by its original owner and they assumed that he may have been the cause. Though I never felt anything strange presences while in the building, I wouldn’t count the possibility out as with the case in many aged buildings.
As I made my way up the circular staircase, I was struck by how sad this once grand estate felt. The busted doors, cracked walls and what remained of the outdated interior finishings depicted a mere shadow of its former self.
Once I had finished my tour of the home, I made my way to the outside to analyze its facade. The colorful, diamond-shaped etched and stained glass windows highlighted its walls and numerous chimneys graced its roofline. The rear of the building, with its covered entryway, was where I began my investigation, but it was the front of the mansion that was the most captivating with its gothic tower.
Next, I headed to the nearby cemetery, Memorial Circle and the overgrown water tower all nestled deep in the woods. Alone on the dirt road, surrounded by a dense thicket of trees, it was a bit creepy knowing that just down the way was the location where a Halloween haunted drive was being set up for a scary night’s festivities. I have watched enough horror movies to know that these types of locations are where things go awry! The Memorial Circle was extremely weird with random pieces of yard furniture and decaying statues were displayed amongst the natural landscape. I made quick work of photographing the area and walked briskly back to the Belmead, breathing a sigh of relief when I reached the crumbling amphitheater.
Making my way back toward the house, I got into my car and drove past the front of the mansion towards the granary. Parking my car once again, I made my way around the granary and through the barn. There were some interesting old pieces of farm equipment and old gas pumps on the premises as well as old signs collecting dust inside of the barn.
Finally, I decided to head to the much anticipated St. Francis de Sales. As I was headed back to the main road, crossing an old bridge, I spied a cemetery on the left side of the road. Pulling over, I walked up the hill to explore the historic cemetery located there. Deeply moved, I wandered around amongst the rusting, simple white crosses that dotted the landscape. These were the graves of the people who created the Belmead plantation. Noting a plaque attached to a large boulder, I learned that these graves dated back as far as 1853 and contained both young and old. Their work of art was crumbling much the same as their grave markers.
It was sad to see a once beautiful property aging very ungracefully, yet it was exciting to be able to be one of the few allowed to experience it and to be able to capture its fading beauty. Maybe with enough attention, helped along by John Plaschal, some historic society will be able to restore it once again.
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Having visited lighthouses in Ghana, Cuba and the Outer Banks of North Carolina, I know what great views can be had from the top.
When I spotted the Key West Lighthouse while we were visiting the Hemingway House from the upper terrace, I knew that a long winding staircase was in my future.
The next morning.
My husband’s future? Not really.
As we walked down the street in the early morning heat, he decided to duck into a small restaurant and enjoy a cold drink. Seeing the island from a bird’s eye view and exerting a great deal of energy first thing in the morning did not seem all that enticing when all he wanted to do was lay on a beach.
Off I went, on my own, anxious to see if there was anything that made this particular lighthouse, well…particular.
As I stood at the bottom of the towering beacon, gazing upward and taking a breath, I entered and began the climb. Eighty-eight steps to the top, I finally made it, occasionally stopping to to catch my breath and peer out of the random porthole.
The views of the island were breathtaking and the waters surrounding the island were glistening in the morning sun. It was enlightening to find the landmarks noted on the signs attached to the rail and as I scanned the horizon, I spotted some of the attractions I was interested in visiting. The best attraction that I spotted, however, was my husband, sitting on the porch of the restaurant drinking his Diet Coke…and was that a piece of Key Lime pie?
At the base of the lighthouse, I stopped for a minute to admire one of the life-like statues that grace the lighthouse and museum’s grounds and then headed over to the lighthouse keeper’s former home, now a museum.
The first lighthouse on the island was built in 1825 near the Southernmost Point. After it was destroyed by a hurricane in 1846, this new lighthouse was constructed inland on Whitehead Street and completed in 1848.
As I moved through the museum, I learned that the first lighthouse keeper was a woman, nearly unheard of during that time period. Many upgrades were completed over the years, including the installation of a Third Order Fresnel Lens which allowed the lens to be seen from a greater distance, the addition of the Keeper’s Quarters and the installation of electricity. Though the lighthouse served Key West and its maritime visitors and passersby for many years, it was decommissioned in 1969.
A large number of photographs lined the walls of the museum and a couple of the rooms were staged to allow a look into how the lighthouse keepers and their families lived. There were many other nautical items and aged lens displayed throughout the gallery.
Other buildings on the premises
Though the lighthouse has not been in use for many years, it has played an important part of Key West’s maritime heritage and is now an important part of Key West’s tourism. There are many things to see and do in Key West and this is one of the ones that all visitors should see.
Was it worth the sweltering climb?
Yes, because I got the views and key lime pie in the end!
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Just south of the Mason Dixon line lies the town of Emmitsburg, Maryland.
You’ve probably never heard of it?
I never had.
While on a trip to Gettysburg, I drove by this small town and learned that there were some important places of interest located here. I decided that when I departed Gettysburg, I would make a detour through Emmitsburg and see for myself what it was all about.
Once known as Poplar Fields or Silver Fancy in the 1780s, it was renamed for a local landowner, William Emmit. Widely known for two pilgrimage sites, the National Shrine Grotto of Our Lady of Lourdes and the Basilica and National Shrine of St. Elizabeth Ann Seton, which I planned to visit, I also learned that there are a few other historical buildings within the town.
Just eleven miles south of Gettysburg, I drove through a quaint town with neatly kept colonial buildings and a rich history. Emmitsburg’s town square was the site of the town water pump and distinguished with a beautiful Victorian fountain which operated for more than forty years. During the summer of 1863, a great fire swept through the town and destroyed approximately forty homes. Almost one quarter of the town was destroyed and fifty-five families were left homeless. The town’s progress was greatly diminished by the fire and many had to seek employment elsewhere. Only a month later, both Union and Confederate soldiers traveled through the town on their way to what would be the Battle of Gettysburg. Confederate General J.E.B. Stuart and the 34th Virginia Calvary engaged here in a small battle with Federal troops which resulted in the capture of 70 Union soldiers and their captain.
I decided to park my car and take a walk through the downtown area. There were many churches, but it was the Catholic Church of St. Joseph that drew me in. Established in 1852, the steeple was added to the church in 1863 and multiple renovations completed during the next forty years. The church was relatively uncomplicated with a single aisle and a main altar. A beautiful painting of its patron saint, St. Joseph, was hanging behind the altar, a round portrait of the Holy Family located on the ceiling and there were some stunning arched stained glass windows lining its walls. After my visit was complete, I took a walk around the cemetery, inspecting the headstones, most dating back to the early and mid 1800s.
Getting back to my car, I next headed to the National Emergency Training Center campus which is located on the former grounds of Saint Joseph College. Located here is the Emergency Management Institute, the National Fire Academy and the National Fallen Firefighters Memorial. The latter was what I intended to see, however, the entrances to the campus were all closed.
It was the Shrine to St. Elizabeth Seton and the National Shrine Grotto of Our Lady of Lourdes that I wanted to visit next, however, I discovered two other picturesque buildings near the road to the Grotto. St. Anthony’s Shrine, a gorgeous stone church, has roots dating back to the 1700s, however the edifice dates back to its dedication in 1897. The church was not open, however, even in the light rain that was falling, it was a fascinating and striking fabrication with its red contrasts. A short walk led me to another building marked St. Anthony Little School House, established in 1890. Again, the building was not open, however, I gather that it was a public schoolhouse created for use by the local children.
Side trips aside, it was time to make make my way to the Shrine of St. Elizabeth Seton and the National Shrine of Our Lady of Lourdes. Though Emmitsburg was an interesting detour, these were the sites that I couldn’t wait to see (and they were open for business!)
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You don’t see many in your everyday life except in certain areas of the country.
While visiting Gettysburg, I learned of the Sachs Covered Bridge. Located not far from the battlefields and President Eisenhower’s home, it was built in 1852 by David Stoner. Spanning one hundred feet over the nearby Marsh Creek, it is considered Pennsylvania’s most historic bridge and was listed in 1980 on the National Register of Historic Places.
So, what makes the bridge so special…besides its beautiful deep crimson hue and tranquil setting? It was used by both Union and Confederate Troops during the Battle of Gettysburg in 1863. Pedestrian traffic is only allowed across the lattice bridge and it is frequented by ghost hunters on a nightly basis. Many ghostly encounters have been witnessed here, so visit at your own risk!
Heading southwest, I encountered the G. Donald McLaughlin Bridge. Also called the Jacks Mountain Bridge, it is the only covered bridge in Adams County that you can still drive through. Located near Fairfield, it was constructed in 1890 using the traditional Burr truss and spans seventy five feet over Tom’s Creek.
It was quite interesting waiting for the traffic light to turn green to control traffic through the bridge. Though I wanted to drive slowly to absorb the experience, it was quite a busy road and I did not want to inconvenience other drivers who probably tire of onlookers. After crossing the bridge to the southern side, I was able to pull off and capture a few photos.
Continuing my journey southward, I crossed into the state of Maryland. Just off of Route 15, I began my search for the three covered bridges that span various tributaries in Frederick County.
Roddy Road Covered Bridge was built in 1856 and lies just north of Thurmont, Maryland. It is the smallest bridge and located adjacent to a children’s park. The bridge is open to car traffic but you can pull over to the left side of the road to take pictures or walk across between the intermittent traffic.
Not far away, I found Loys Station Covered Bridge in Rocky Ridge. If you are looking to make an experience out of visiting this bridge, this is the perfect place! Built in 1880, you can still spot pieces of its original timber as you carefully walk across the bridge, still open to car traffic. On the south side of Owen’s Creek, Loys Station Park is a great place to park, picnic or fish along the banks of the creek. It is a great area to take children to play on the playground equipment while checking out this magnificent piece of architecture.
Finally, with a little bit of driving through the countryside, I located the Utica Road Covered Bridge. Built in 1834, it originally crossed the Monocacy River until 1889 when it was washed away by a storm. Reconstructed, it was moved to its current location across Fishing Creek. Located near Lewistown, it is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
As the evening came to a close, I scanned my map for of these exceptional landmarks. There were a few more…just much further than daylight would allow!
If you are in the great states of Pennsylvania or Maryland, set out on a unique adventure to see these historic spans that have stood the test of time. Afteral, it is uncertain how much time they have left…
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Sachs Covered Bridge
Address: Waterworks Road, Gettysburg, PA 17325
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Sachs Covered Bridge sits in the southwestern corner of Gettysburg National Military Park. The bridge is located at the end of a short dirt road off of Pumping Station Road.
G. Donald McLaughlin Bridge
Address: 299-231 Jacks Mountain Road, Fairfield, PA 17320
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Jacks Mountain Covered Bridge is located just off of Route 116 on Jacks Mountain Road near Fairfield.
Roddy Road Covered Bridge
Address: 14760 Roddy Road Thurmont, MD 21788
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Loys Station Covered Bridge
Address: 13506 Old Frederick Road, Rocky Ridge, MD 21778
Though Gettysburg is known for its battlefields, there are many historic buildings and beautiful architecture throughout the city that should be investigated.
After a long day spent driving through the battlefields, I decided to check out some of the historic sites in the city. Though most were closed due to Covid 19 restrictions, I was able to photograph the exteriors and imagine the famous people that once walked here and the stories that emanated from the battles in the area.
One of the stateliest sites in the city is the Gettysburg train station. It was here that President Abraham Lincoln arrived when invited to say a few appropriate remarks at the dedication of the Soldiers’ National Cemetery. These remarks resulted in one of the most historic speeches in our nation’s history, the Gettysburg Address. The station was restored in 2006 and offers a self-guided tour featuring exhibits and artifacts relating to Lincoln and the railroad’s role in the history of Gettysburg.
Nearby is the Majestic Theater. Opened on November 14, 1925, the theater welcomed audiences to vaudeville and silent movies. Seating 1,200 patrons, it was built by Henry Scharf as an annex to the historic Gettysburg Hotel. Visited often by former President Dwight D. Eisenhower and First Lady Mamie Eisenhower, the theater also achieved acclaim for its premier of major movies including Federico Fellini’s Satyricon in 1970 and Ted Turner’s Gettysburg in 1993. Since its restoration in 2005, the theater has once again welcomed audiences to be seated in its original grandeur.
Around the corner and connected to the Majestic Theater is the Gettysburg Hotel. Though this would have been my choice of accommodations for my stay, I discovered that this historic hotel was closed until next summer as they are assisting with the housing of students from the University of Gettysburg. Centrally located in Lincoln Square, it is in close proximity to many wonderful eating establishments, shopping and historic buildings and is only a three-minute drive to Gettysburg National Military Park. Dating back to 1797, when it opened as a tavern, it has a rich history and is reported to be haunted by a few spirits including a Civil War nurse named Rachel, a wounded soldier and a dancing woman in the hotel’s ballroom.
Across the street is the David Wills House. Abraham Lincoln was a guest of David Wills here on November 18 and 19, 1863. David Wills was an attorney and superintendent of Adam’s County Schools, President of the Gettysburg Borough Council in 1872 and an Adams County Judge, as well as serving on the board of directors of the Bank of Gettysburg and the Gettysburg Railroad Company among others. Though his host was a very prominent citizen, I was uncertain why the President would not have stayed in one of the finer rooms at the Gettysburg Hotel, however, it was here that he met with Governor Curtin and completed his Gettysburg Address. The museum was closed during this time, however, I made sure to take a picture with the statue of our great President (with a statue of a tourist) outside on the sidewalk.
A short walk from the David Wills House on Baltimore Street is the Adams County Courthouse, built in 1859 to replace the original courthouse originally located in the town square. Used as a hospital following the Battle of Gettysburg, it is now included on the National Register of Historic Places. The original courtroom was in use from 1859 to 1979 and contains tromp d’oiel frescoes painted by George Seiling in 1859. Today, that courtroom is only used for ceremonial purposes.
Across the street, you can spot the Adams County Library with its own statue of Abraham Lincoln. Installed in 2014, the bronze statue sits atop a base containing the inscription of the Gettysburg Address and commemorates our President and the historic speech.
As always, I had hoped to check out some of the nearby churches, however, I found them all to be locked. St. Francis Xavier Church was first on my list. Standing on the portico, I found a summation of its history. Built in 1853, the church served as a field hospital during and after the Battle of Gettysburg.
Crossed the street, I found the Memorial Episcopal Church of the Prince of Peace. The first Episcopal Church was established in 1747, with the actual church being consecrated in 1836. It is known for a stained-glass window which depicts Christ with the Children.
Hopping back in my car, I headed north on Baltimore Street towards the beautiful campus of Gettysburg College. Established in 1832, by anti-slavery theologian Samuel Simon Schmucker, as Pennsylvania College, it stood in the way of the immense battle between the north and the south. The college’s Pennsylvania Hall became a hospital for hundreds of soldiers from both the Confederate and Union armies. In honor of its alumni David Wills, who hosted President Lincoln in his home, tradition has it that each fall, first year students recreate the procession through town to hear an honored guest read the Gettysburg Address. The school is also known for its Civil War programs. The campus is quite lovely and contains its own statue of Lincoln, seated in front of Stevens Hall, signing the Emancipation Proclamation.
There are many beautiful homes and businesses throughout the city, and I would have loved to have seen them all. Though getting around Gettysburg is quite easy, there was still so much to see in the nearby areas, and I was determined to make the most of my time. If you make your way to Gettysburg, make the most of your time and check out its architectural gems.
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There was still plenty of daylight and most attractions in Cuba did not close for a little while. I needed a plan of action that might include a frosty beverage!
Grabbing a seat on a rustic bench, I took a second to regroup.
Iglesia del Santo Angel Custodio near the Revolution Museum caught my eye. I had just been near there and it meant a little backtracking, but there were many restaurants just around the corner and it would be nice to have a seat and something to drink.
Though the church was not open, I discovered that it sat on a pretty, yet tiny, colonial square, Plazuela de Santo Ángel. A lovely bronze statue of a woman holding court in front of the church captured my attention. She was dressed in vintage attire, holding a fan and appeared to have just left the church and was going to do her business in Old Havana.
Although there is a placard on the church wall which tells visitors about this woman, Cecilia Valdes, I had to wait until later to decipher who she was as it was written in Spanish. What I later learned was that this woman is the title heroine of a popular 19th century book which had a scene set at this location. The book has inspired operas, literary reiterations and a feature film and has been considered one of the most important novels detailing life in 19th century Cuba. You can also take note of the bust on the nearby wall of Cirilo Villaverde, the Cuban poet, novelist, journalist and freedom fighter. He is known especially for one great literary piece of work. Yes…the novel, Cecilia Valdes!
As I made my way away from the square, I was intrigued with the area. There were captivating outdoor cafes, fun souvenir shops and colorful fans hanging above the street. It was a beautiful afternoon and it was nice to take a seat under one of the large umbrellas and enjoy a refreshing cerveza!
Once again, I continued my explorations and there was a great detail to take in; small, beautifully crafted tiles on buildings, artists putting the finishing touches on their masterpieces, bits of grafitti, a statue of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes and city wall ruins in the Parque Cespedes La Maestranza and the Police Headquarters situated in a old fortress, were just a few of the treasures that I encountered along the way.
Music playing in the distance caught my ear and I followed the tune. Finding myself in the Plaza de la Catedral, a known locale of countless street performers, I stared up at the profound Havana Cathedral, also known as the Catedral de San Cristobal. One of the eleven cathedrals on the island, it serves as the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese. Built between 1748 and 1777, it was consecrated in 1782.
The Baroque architectural style is quite commanding as you stand before the cathedral in the plaza and if your eye is quite discerning, you may notice that the two bell towers are of unequal size and height. Approaching the facade, I noticed that there were fossilized marine fauna and flora in the stone, quickly realizing that the Cathedral is constructed from coral. It is quite beautiful and I could not wait to see what its interior held, especially knowing that it was designed by Italian architect Francesco Borromini.
The interior is decorated in the neoclassical style and has a central nave, two side aisles, eight side chapels and is in the form of a Latin cross. Though my initial impression of the interior was that it was stunning, with its palatial columns and soaring vaulted ceilings, I realized that it was more of an understated beauty. I have seen my share of opulent religious building throughout the world and this one was not of that class. It was, however, welcoming and offered many sculptures, paintings and frescoes throughout its interior. Some of these paintings and frescoes are by masters Peter Paul Rubens and Bartolome Esteban Murillo. Other standouts are a statue of Apolinar Serrano, Spanish bishop of Havana, who is buried in the Cathedral, a sculpture of Saint Christopher, the Patron Saint of Havana, three fading frescoes by Giuseppe Perovani above the altar, a canvas of the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception, Patroness of the Cathedral, and on the altar, sculptures and goldsmith works made in Rome during the first half of the 19th century.
The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Christopher and between 1796 and 1898, the remains of Christopher Columbus were kept in the Altar of the Gospel before being taken to the Seville Cathedral in Spain after the Cuban War of Independence.
Finding the side door open, I ventured out and discovered access to the right belltower. I suspected that someone is usually stationed at the entrance to collect an admittance fee, however, no one was present. Making my way up each level of the campanile, I had bird’s eye views of each of the mighty carillons as well as panoramas of the plaza below and even a view across the river of the Christ of Havana. A small gate was unlocked and I discovered that it led onto a portion of the roof. Since there was no one to tell me that I was not allowed and no signs, I ventured to the area and was rewarded with close glimpses of the tiled roof and the spectacular flying buttresses.
After my visit to the Cathedral was complete, I headed back out into the Plaza de la Catedral. Musicians were performing at the El Patio restaurant and locals and visitors were dancing in the square. There were gaily dressed Cuban women, seated at tables and telling fortunes and a general sense of celebration. Walking down the Empedrado, I witnessed many artists along the thoroughfare and older women holding tight between their teeth, one of the things Cuba is known for. It seems that they have learned that tourists love the photo opportunity to pose with a cigar smoking old lady! Here, I also found La Bodeguita del Medio, the famous bar which lays claim to being the birthplace of the Mojito cocktail, prepared in the establishment since its opening in 1942. Though I would have loved to go inside, the line was fairly long and I really would have preferred to come back in the evening for a proper drink.
Cutting back across the Plaza de la Catedral, my next destination was the Plaza de Armas, Havana’s oldest square. Originally known as Plaza de Iglesia for a church that stood on the site, it was developed in the 1520s. Its current name was adopted in the late 16th century, when the governor used the site to conduct military exercises.
Today, the square is centered with a marble statue of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes and bounded by some important buildings which include the 18th century Palacio de Los Condes de Santovenia (now known as the Hotel Santa Isabel), El Templete, the Public Library, the Museum of Natural History, the Palacio del Segundo Cabo, the Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales and the Castillo de la Real Fuerza.
Museum of Natural History
Hoping to be able to visit the Castillo de la Real Fuerza before closing time, I raced around the property to find the entrance. Luckily, I was allowed inside and began my exploration of the oldest Spanish stone fortress in the Western Hemisphere.
Castillo de la Real Fuerza
Constructed between 1555 and 1577, to safeguard against pirate attacks, it later became the official residence of the Governor of Havana and served as Cuba’s National Archive and National Library. After the Revolution, it housed government offices and a museum of arms. Today, the Castillo de la Real Fuerza, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982, serves as a Museum of Ceramics and a Maritime Museum.
After making my way through the lower level and discovering the maritime artifacts located there, I ventured to the second level which houses the bulk of the Maritime Museum and includes the Naval Model-Making Salon and the Underwater Archeology Warehouse. The most spectacular part of the second level, however, is the watchtower which was added in 1634 and is now a symbol of the city. This watchtower is adorned with a bronze statuette, a replica of La Giraldilla of the Seville Cathedral and is used as a weather vane. Though I originally had no knowledge of this watchtower, it was the ladies keeping watch over the museum salons who wanted me to see what made the castle special, that unlocked the door and let me out on the balcony to see it up close!
Upon my departure from the castle, I headed back to the Plaza de Armas. As I entered the gates of El Templete, I was taken aback by the neoclassical architecture, not very common in Havana. The small Greco-Roman temple with Doric columns, dates back to 1827, and was erected in the place where it was believed that the Villa de San Cristobal de la Habana was founded in 1519. Though the workers were in the process of closing the premises for the day, they allowed me to take a quick peek to see the three valuable paintings by French painter Juan Bautista Vermey, which depict the first mass, the first council and the blessing of the Templete on its inauguration.
El Templete
Inside the courtyard, you can spy the Column of Cajigal which honors the Spanish governor in charge of its construction, an image of the Virgin of Pilar, patroness of Spanish sailors (atop the column), and a marble bust of Governor Don Hernando de Soto, the first governor of the town of San Cristobal de La Habana. The ceiba tree, a sacred symbol in various religions, is one of many that has stood on the site. The latest has existed since 1960 and on November 16, residents come to the tree after midnight, circle it three times and throw a coin to its roots and make a wish.
El Templete
Crossing the plaza, I stepped into the courtyard of the Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales, the former offical residence of the governors of Havana. Dating back to the late 1700’s, it is home to the Museum of the City of Havana and houses exhibitions of art and historical artifacts. Though I would have loved to see the interior and its original colonial decor, the palace was closing for the day.
Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales
Though I was disappointed in not having had the opportunity to visit the palace, I stepped back into the street, which I discovered was paved with wooden blocks. This was the first time I had ever seen this and believe me, it was pretty cool!
Walking past the plaza, I made my way past the Mezquita Addallah and Parque Guayasamin toward the beautiful Old Town Square. Though there are many squares and plazas throughout the city, this one was my favorite. Laid out in 1559, this square offers buildings in many different architectural styles, as well as a fountain and unique sculpture. It was here that I finally encountered the Town Dogs.
Addallah MosqueParque Guayasamin
I learned about the Town Dogs during my tour that morning but even though I had kept a keen eye out, I had not encountered any of them. The Town Dogs are designated as such by the mayor, protected and cared for by the city, each being vaccinated and sterilized. They wear a tag bearing their names and addresses and are free to roam on their own. Lounging on the steps of the Camera Obscura, I found Nina and P. Oblivious to the fact that I was excited to see them, neither were extremely cooperative about giving me a photogenic look…probably because they also had had a long day and were as tired as I was!
Old Town Square
Spying a restaurant balcony with seating across the square, I made a beeline in that general direction. The Don Eduardo Alegre Bar and Restaurant was the perfect way to relax and enjoy the amazing view below, the perfect place to enjoy a cold beer and the perfect way to end my day!
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Iglesia del Santo Angel Custodio
Address: Calle Compostela y Cuarteles Loma del Ángel, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0700-1900, daily
Admission: free
Catedral de San Cristobal
Address: Calle Empedrado 156 , La Habana Vieja, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0930-1700, Sunday 1030-1200, Sunday Mass at 0900.
Admission: free. Tower access, $1 CUC ($1 US)
Castello de la Real Fuerza
Address: Plaza de Armas e/Calle O’Reilly y Av. del Puerto Calle Desamparado/San Pedro, Havana Cuba
Stepping onto Obrapia Street, I first looked left and then right.
First instincts were to gauge how safe I felt in this new city. Heading back one block, I decided to walk along Obispo Street, which is only open to foot traffic. Walking along this pedestrian friendly thoroughfare, I noticed that it was very well kept and there were many shops, banks, parks, restaurants and a few museums.
Obispo Street
Ducking into an artisan market, I browsed the unique souvenirs available and then made my way across the street to inspect a statue of Don Quixote by Leo D’Lazaro (1989), in the Parque de Obispo. There were many locals relaxing in the shade of the large, old trees and the smell of Cuban cuisine filled the air.
Taking a seat on one of the benches, I observed the passersby. Everyone was going about their business and there appeared to be many tourists in the area, making me feel more comfortable. I felt good about venturing further.
After taking a look at my map, I decided to walk westward toward the famous El Floridita bar, located at the Parque Francisco de Albear y Lara. Floridita is a historic fish restaurant and cocktail bar located across from the National Museum of Fine Arts of Havana. It is a hot tourist spot, perfect for people watching and known for having been one of the favorite hangouts of Ernest Hemingway. Though I never made it inside, I was told that there is a life size bronze statue of the writer and excellent daiquiris!
Parque Francisco de Albear y LaraParque Francisco de Albear y LaraParque Francisco de Albear y Lara
Interesting little tuk-tuks were parked all along the square, waiting for someone to hire them, and along with horse-drawn carriages, there were countless classic beauties driving through and parked inside the square. It was evident that the owners were quite proud of their vehicles and most posed alongside waiting for someone to hire them or just engage them in conversation. I watched as many a gentleman popped the hood, eager to share the immaculate condition of their automobiles.
Continuing on, I walked through the Parque Central among the tall, elegant palm trees lining the square and admired the statue of Jose Marti, poet, essayist, patriot and martyr, who became the symbol of Cuba’s struggle for independence from Spain.
Parque Central and Jose Marti Monument
Next on my walking tour was the Boulevard de San Rafael where I spotted the London Bar, Hotel Inglaterra and many old but intriguing buildings. Back to the corner of the boulevard and the Paseo di Marti, I stood in awe of the National Theater. True elegance reigned here, both on the exterior and the interior, as it is the home of the Cuban National Ballet. The Baroque exterior boasts some amazing white marble sculptures which are part of a group of ninety-seven by Giuseppe Moretti and Geneva Mercer and represent charity, education, music and theater. There were posters advertising upcoming performances and I wondered if I could somehow procure tickets for a memorable evening!
San Rafael Street
San Rafael Street
San Rafael StreetSan Rafael StreetNational TheaterNational Theater
What I had spied from my balcony now stood before me…the National Capitol Building or El Capitolio. One of the most visited sites in Havana, the building dates back to the initiation of its construction in 1926 and is located in the exact center of Havana. Prior to the Cuban Revolution of 1959, Congress was housed in the building until it was abolished and disbanded. The building fell into disrepair and since 2013, the government of Cuba has undertaken a restoration project hoping to use the building once again for Cuba’s National Assembly.
National Capitol Building or El Capitolio
Although its design looks much like the United States Capitol, it is a meter higher, a meter wider, a meter longer and much richer in detail. Until the 1950’s, it was the tallest building in the city and houses the world’s third largest indoor statue, located in the apse. La Republica or the Statue of the Republic stands at almost 92 meters high. There are also statues at the main entrance, flanking the fifty-two steps, by Angelo Zanelli, twelve ionic granite columns measuring forty-six feet tall and three large bronze doors with bas-reliefs also by Zanelli which allow access to the main hall. Though I would have loved to have toured the building, it was later in the day and I wasn’t sure it was open. There were other things that I wanted to see, so I hoped that I could squeeze the Capitol into one of my other activity-packed days.
Leisurely strolling along the Paseo di Marti, I admired the unique lamp posts, colorful buildings and the occasional classic car that drove by. Crossing the street near the Capitol, I entered the Parque de la Fraternidad or Fraternity Park with its multitude of busts of Latin and North American leaders. Once known as the Square of Mars and the site of military exercises, the park is now a busy meeting place and centered with a massive ceilba tree.
Parque Fraternidad
Parque Fraternidad
Parque Fraternidad
After making my way around the park I casually glanced down the street and noticed something that I was not expecting to see. A Chinese gate!
Yes, Havana has a Chinatown!
Though not very ornate in nature, it was surprising and probably one of the only places in the world that you will spot antique Fords and Chevrolets driving though its arch. Making my way only a short distance past the gate, I learned from my tour guide the next day, that there are actually some pretty good Chinese restaurants in this area.
Buildings near Chinatown
There were many buildings in various states of repair or disrepair. As I walked along Cienfuegos Street, one of the most photographed areas in the city and known for its unique architectural elements, I remember thinking that some might think it is not a beautiful part of the city because not everything was new and shiny. I, however, thought the opposite. I loved every bit of peeling paint, every cracked pane of glass, trees growing off of the roofs, every colorful, but dirt-covered tile and every rusty piece of ironwork. This was a city with character.
Cienfuegos StreetCienfuegos StreetCienfuegos Street
Cienfuegos Street
Cienfuegos StreetCienfuegos Street
Realizing that it was the beginning of the end of the day (a very long one, I might add), I decided to make my way back towards my hotel with the hopes of finding a nice little outdoor restaurant where I could have a nice cold beer and watch the world go by!
But first, as I made my way through Parque Cristo, admiring the monument in the center, I noticed something that I could not resist…a church, Iglesia Del Santo Cristo Del Buen Viaje. Since this was my first visit to a church in Havana, I wasn’t sure of the protocol for visitors, especially since this seemed like more of a neighborhood church. The woman at the door, however, greeted me warmly and allowed me to walk through freely and take photos. There were many beautiful stained glass windows and interesting statues but the ceiling was what gave this church its singularity. I learned that this church is one of the oldest in Havana, dating back to 1755 and once acted as the Cathedral of Havana…I picked a good one for my first!
Parque Cristo
Iglesia Del Santo Cristo Del Buen ViajeIglesia Del Santo Cristo Del Buen ViajeIglesia Del Santo Cristo Del Buen ViajeIglesia Del Santo Cristo Del Buen Viaje
Winding my way back to Obispo Street, I walked along with the crowds, admiring the architecture and every little thing that I could take in. Finally, locating a restaurant with outdoor seating, I grabbed a seat, ordered some food and ordered the beer that I had been thirsting for during my wanderings under the blazing Cuban sun. All the while, I relaxed and enjoyed the Cuban musical stylings of local musicians.
As I wandered back to my Airbnb, it was growing dark.
But, you know what? I never once glanced over my shoulder. I never worried about anyone hiding in some dark corner. In fact, I was awed by the gentlemen who stepped off the sidewalk to allow me to pass. I was awed by the hospitality of everyone I met and the pleasant greetings extended to me when they found out I was an American.
Now, why was I nervous about coming?
Sitting on my balcony that night, I watched the children play in the street below and the neighbors sitting on their stoops listening to music and talking until late. Though I could still hear the goings-on through my closed balcony door, once I crawled into bed, it really didn’t bother me.
It was Havana!
Hello Havana!
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Address: Obispo 557 Esquina a Monserrate esq. a Monserrate, Havana Vieja, Havana, 10100 Cuba
Hours: 1100-2400, daily
National Theater
Address: Plaza de la Revolucion Havana, Cuba
The theater has 4 ticket offices located on the south side (Avenida Paseo) of the facility. Their hours of operation are Monday through Friday from 1000-1200 and 1300-1400. When the shows take place on Saturdays, Sundays, Mondays or holidays, the ticket offices open from 1000 until just 30 minutes after the start of the presentation.
El Capitolio
Address: Paseo de Marti, Havana 10200
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 1030-2200 and Sunday 1030-1300
Iglesia Del Santo Cristo Del Buen Viaje
Address: Plaza del Cristo, La Habana Vieja, Havana, Cuba
Maybe because Cuba was denied to U.S. citizens for so long, it is a place that has held a place of honor at the top of many bucket lists when it was finally opened up again.
There were many times when I thought I would work it into my travel schedule. Sometimes something else came up…or the flights were full…or I just plain chickened out. The fact that there was no cellphone service and no connection to the mainland honestly frightened me, especially if I was going to travel there by myself or with my children.
But, each time that I didn’t take that risk, I wanted to kick myself later.
Seeing some free time on my schedule, earlier this year, I decided that I was definitely going to make this trip to Cuba happen!
Maybe.
I hoped.
Since I was going to be traveling standby, I had to watch the flights carefully and my accommodations had to be booked only when I absolutely knew that I was going to make it there.
At two in the morning, I still wasn’t sure if I was going to leave for Havana in the morning. I lay in bed struggling with the decision, my stomach in knots, wondering if I was doing the right thing. On a whim, I messaged a few Airbnb owners and explained my situation. I was going to catch an early flight to Atlanta, arriving around 7:30 a.m. At that point, I would watch the flight to Havana for an hour and then reach out to make my reservation. My biggest question was whether or not I would have enough time to hear back from them to confirm the reservation and for them to forward me the address of the accommodation. If I landed with no cell service and no address…well, you can see why I was stressed.
Almost immediately, one of the owner’s responded. He understood my circumstances and right away, sent me the address. He told me that he would await my reservation at the appointed time and that he could also arrange for a car and driver to pick me up at the airport.
One hurdle down. I could get an hour’s sleep.
After arriving at the airport, I watched the flight which was departing in four hours and after deciding that I would probably make it, I set up the reservation and secured the car and driver.
Hurdle two, down.
Settling down at the gate, I filled out the visa paperwork that was required and paid the visa fee. The agents had a lot to do with the visa processing of the other passengers and the boarding process and I stood by nervously praying that I had not made the Airbnb reservation unnecessarily. Finally, the agent motioned me over to the counter, giving me a seat assignment and my proof of insurance.
Hurdle three, down.
Walking down the jetway, I thought, “This is my last chance to bail. Am I making the right decision?”
My seat was in first class and much to the dismay of the gentleman next to me, he suddenly learned that I was infringing upon the extra space that he thought he was going to have. Graciously, however, he greeted me and informed me that he had cleaned my seat with his supply of Lysol wipes!
As we began to speak, I told him how nervous I was and learned that this was his 120th trip to Cuba! You know how they say that sometimes things happen for a reason? Well, I must have been placed next to this man for the sole purpose of making me feel good about my decision to travel to Havana on my own.
At one time, he worked as a contractor for my airline when the need arose for a liaison between the airline and the government for the onset of the initial service. Prior to that and currently, he worked and is working as a tour operator. After learning where I was staying, he made me feel extremely confident about my decision as he had booked clients at this particular property. He was surprised to hear how hesitant I was, despite having traveled around the world, sometimes solo, and assured me that I would be completely safe. After giving me a list of restaurant recommendations and special items of interest, he reached up into his baggage and pulled out a Cuban tour book. Opening it to the Old Havana section, he suggested that I spend the flight looking through it and photographing the sections that interested me.
The book was outstanding and by the time I spotted the lush, green landscape sprawling below, I was only feeling excited anticipation!
Exiting customs and immigration, I exchanged currency and then spotted a driver holding a sign with my name. As he led me into the parking lot, my breath caught a little in my chest. I had heard about the antique cars that populate the city, but this was my first glimpse of the many positioned in the lot and my driver led me to a beautiful, old turquoise Ford. It was thrilling to ride in such a beautiful antique and though I don’t speak much Spanish and he didn’t speak much English, we managed a few pleasantries and we embarked on the journey towards my hotel in Old Havana.
After an enlightening forty-five minute drive (yes, the airport is that far!), we turned onto a narrow street and pulled in front of the building that houses Havana Dream, the Airbnb that was going to be my home for the next three nights. I thanked my lucky stars that we had arranged a driver to meet me as the building was nondescript and probably would have been difficult for a regular cab driver to find.
Greeted warmly by my host and his manager, I was shown to my room, a very modern and well-appointed space with a small balcony overlooking the street and down to the National Capitol building. What a sight!
I had made it!
Now what?
Last hurdle. I needed to go out. After quizzing the house manager about the time of sunset and safety measures, I decided to take a rousing shower and dress casually enough for going out, yet smartly enough to stay out for dinner and the return before dark.
Descending the stairs, I cautiously opened the door and stepped out onto Obrapia Street.
Despite not having had decided to travel here a mere twelve hours earlier, I was finally here. My 76th country! I had mounted many hurdles to get here and it was time to see what lay in store for me.
Old Havana was out there waiting to be discovered!
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Note: ATM machines and credit cards do not work for American credit cards in Cuba. American cash and other currencies can be exchanged at the airport. Bring more currency than you expect to use. Though my Airbnb arranged for the transportation, I was responsible for the fare, 30CUC. My Airbnb also provided currency exchange when needed at local, published bank rates. Additionally, wifi cards could be purchased from my Airbnb which could be used while at my accommodations, however, because I was using an Iphone, once the card’s service was initiated, it was prudent to use all of the minutes allotted or risk losing it.
One of the best things about Charleston is that it is a great walking city. With so much history within its boundaries, there is a wealth of information at your fingertips…or rather footsteps…
From block to block, every building, signpost, gate and cobblestone has a story to tell.
Some are marked with signs stating their historical significance.
Some, you can find with a tour guide’s help.
Some, you just need to know.
And some you just stumble upon, along with historical events happening as you walk on by!
2020 Charleston Mayoral Inauguration
Take the time to explore…and learn.
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There are approximately sixty-five churches in Charleston’s downtown area and as I stood at my hotel window, so many majestic steeples and spires dotted the landscape, I almost lost count!
I was intrigued! I always seek out churches in Europe, but I was curious to see what these churches, some very historic, would offer. As I stood before the window, I decided that this would be my mission that day. I would try to see and photograph as many of these historic places of worship as I could!
The French Huguenot Church was first on my list, not only because it was in the area that I was headed, but I was captivated by pictures I had seen. Dating back to 1845, this was the third church to stand on the site and it is the only remaining independent Huguenot Church in America. Although I didn’t get the opportunity to venture inside, I was able to admire its Gothic styled windows, buttresses and decorative details.
Just down the street, I was drawn to St. Philip’s Episcopal Church, one of the most photographed landmarks in Charleston. In 1681, a small wooden building on the site of the current St. Michael’s Episcopal church, housed the congregation until a new church was built on this location in the 1700’s. This church, however, was destroyed by fire in 1835. The current church was completed in 1838 and it’s lofty steeple added a decade later. Again, neither the church nor its graveyard were open as I strolled by, but it should be noted that there are many prominent people buried in this location, including several colonial Governors, five Episcopal bishops and a former United States Vice President.
The Circular Church was organized in 1681 by English Congregationalists, Scots Presbyterians and French Huguenots who were seeking religious freedom. Located on Meeting Street, it was their first church, known as the White Meeting House, that gave the street its name. The second structure was completed in 1806 until it was damaged by the Great Charleston Fire in 1861 and then completely demolished by the Charleston earthquake of 1886. The current circular Romanesque church was completed in 1892, using material from the previous structure. Though, once again, the church was not open to visitors, the graveyard offered some interesting grave sites and tombstones, one dating back to 1695.
So, I was batting zero as far as seeing interiors of these significant sanctuaries and my average didn’t get any better as I arrived at the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist. Out front, a sign was posted stating that the interior was closed while it was receiving a fresh coat of paint! Standing outside, I had to imagine what its notable stained glass windows looked like from the inside while gazing up at the relatively new spire. The cathedral dates back to its completion in 1854, only to see its destruction by the Great Charleston Fire in seven years later. The current construction was completed in 1907, with it spire added 103 years later. Disappointed that I was unable to see the interior of the cathedral, I was invited into the basement chapel by the church’s secretary, for a small respite from the unseasonably warm temperatures.
A little further down the block, I found St. Michael’s, and finally, a church that was open! Built between 1752 and 1761, St. Michael’s Episcopal Church is one of the oldest churches in Charleston, surviving hurricanes, wars, fires and earthquakes. It has hosted some very famous guests including George Washington in 1791 and Robert E. Lee in 1861. As I wandered through the historic structure, I noted the beautiful stained glass window in the apse, a brass chandelier, carved wooden pulpit, cedar box-pews, the three-sided second story gallery and its grand organ.
Despite my disappointment in my mission with most churches being closed, this beautiful church restored my vigor!
Heading in the opposite direction, I made my way over to the Emanuel African Methodist Episcopal Church, often referred to as Mother Emanuel. A Gothic Revival style church built in 1891, it is the oldest African Methodist Episcopal (AME) church in the south. Though I was unaware at the time, I discovered later that this was the church that was the site of a mass shooting in 2015 when a man entered the church and opened fire on a Bible study group.
The Second Presbyterian Church was located a couple of blocks away on Wragg Square. Founded in 1809, the church is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Designed in the Classic Revival style, the brick building features two tiers of windows, a square tower with an octagonal belfry and a Tuscan portico.
Moving on, I spied the New Tabernacle Fourth Baptist Church down the street. After later spotting photographs of this Gothic Revival’s interior, I do wish I could have taken a look inside as it appeared to be quite lovely. This church dates back to 1875 and is the fourth church of the Baptist denomination to be founded in Charleston.
On King Street, named for King Charles II and known for its outstanding shopping, I found St. Matthew’s Lutheran Church. Built in 1872, its 297-foot steeple once made it the tallest building in South Carolina. Today, it is the tallest spire and one that I had seen from my hotel window. After only being able to see most of the churches that I had sought out only from the outside, I was thrilled to find St. Matthew’s open to visitors. The caretaker gave me a detailed history of the church, including the fire that destroyed much of the interior and the steeple, which crashed into King Street. Its original features include the carved pulpit and the stained glass windows in the apse and under the balcony.
Citadel Square Baptist, established in 1854, was the fourth Baptist church built in Charleston and is named after the church’s location across from Marion Square, the location of the Citadel at the time. It makes a beautiful site from the square with its flaxen hued exterior and lanky spire.
Redeemer Presbyterian Church is a relatively new church, started in 2005 on James Island. After deciding to relocate to the downtown area, this church assumed ownership of St. Andrew’s Lutheran Church, which dates back to 1853. Again, it was not open to the public, but I thought that it was a stately building created in the classical Greek revival style.
The last church I came upon was St. Johannes Lutheran Church. To be quite frank, it looked so much like the previous one. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, however, this church was established in 1842 by a constituency of 52 Lutherans who wanted to retain the German language in their services. In fact, German was spoken until 1910. I understand that the interior is quite beautiful, so I will have to do further investigation to find when the church might be open to visitors.
As the afternoon was coming to a close, I did a quick count…twelve churches. Wow! But wait, how many are there in the downtown area?
I read somewhere that there are over 400 places of worship of different denominations throughout the city. If this is the case, it truly is a Holy City.
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