Tag: architecture history

The Heart of the City

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

In most Spanish cities, there is a main square.

The Plaza Mayor.

There are exceptions to the rule, however. In Granada, the main square is the Bib Rambla, but the Plaza Mayors in Madrid and Salamanca are two of the most famous. Having visited Madrid’s main square many times, it was no surprise to find that Segovia, too, had a square by the same name and I could not pass up the chance to discover what made this one stand apart from the others that I had visited in the past.

As I made my way down Calle Real, one of the most famous streets in Segovia, I suddenly found myself in the heart of the city. This square, under the watchful eye of the city’s magnificent cathedral, boasts several other important buildings such as the Town Hall, the Juan Bravo Theater and the San Miguel Church. There is also a small bandstand located in the middle of the plaza where the occasional musicians pound out a tune and around which the Segovian people have social gatherings and festivities.

Cathedral of Segovia
Town Hall

Segovia’s Plaza Mayor was built in the 17th century as the center of the village where vendors set up their stands and citizens socialized and met. The Town Hall, (17th century), flanks the north side of the square and is the location of the majority of all Segovian events. The church of San Miguel, with its beautifully colored spire, was rebuilt in 1558 and was the location where Isabel was proclaimed Queen of Castile. I had been excited to visit this church with its Rubens painting and baroque altarpieces, however, due to the early hour, I found the door locked.

Church of San Miguel

The Juan Bravo Theater, one of the newer buildings that sit on the square, was constructed in 1917 and is used by both locals and tourists for various performances.

Juan Bravo Theater

This city square has changed names many times over the years. It was first called the Plaza Mayor upon its conception and then, during the Bourbon Restoration, Plaza de la Constitution. It was changed to Plaza de Franco after the Civil War and then changed again to its original name, Plaza Mayor at the end of Francisco Franco’s dictatorship.

As in the past, there are many outdoor cafes, shops arcades and hotels that surround the square and this is a place where you can spot many tourists who visit the city. Fiestas, such as the Frutos de Segovia, and the traditional fairs of San Juan held until the day of San Pedro on June 29 and participants can enjoy traditional fairs, folk walks, illuminations and fireworks.

It was much more of an open space than the Plaza Mayor in Madrid and extremely peaceful, especially during a day in winter, when the city is not filled with tourists seeking out its wonders. It was a mild February day when I was visiting, so I decided to sit outside and enjoy the comings and goings of the locals, while enjoying lunch and keeping an eye on the beauty of the Segovia Cathedral which was on my list of places to visit.

Ancient Segovians may have known this place by a different name, however, regardless of what alias this main plaza goes by, it can really only be known as one thing…

The heart of the city.

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Plaza Mayor

  • Address: Plaza Mayor 11, Segovia
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free

Church of San Miguel

  • Address: Calle Infanta Isabel 6, 40001, Segovia
  • Hours: 1100-1700, Tuesday to Sunday.
  • Admission: free

Town Hall

  • http://www.segovia.es/
  • Address: Mayor Square 1, 40001, Segovia
  • Hours: 0900-1400, Monday-Friday. Closed Saturday and Sunday
  • Admission: free

Juan Bravo Theater

The House of Spikes

©2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Many European cities are filled with unique architecture and artwork.

Segovia is one of them.

There are cathedrals, castles, aqueducts, statues…you name it. A walk around the city is most certainly entertaining especially if you are an architecture aficionado.

When I first arrived in Segovia, I marveled at the beautiful aqueduct that sprawls across the main square, but knowing that there was much to explore, I headed deep into the city. Aiming for the city’s center, the Plaza Mayor, there was, however, a building that caught my attention, along the way.

Casa de los Picos.

The House of the Spikes.

A short walk from the famed aqueduct, I found myself on Calle Juan Bravo standing in front of a building with a most unique facade!

Built during the end of the fifteenth century in the Renaissance style, its first owner was Pedro Lopez de Ayala, the Count of Fuensalida. Left to his son, Pedro, upon his death, the house was then sold to Juan de la Hoz, a Segovian councilman. After the acquisition, de la Hoz began the transformation that made the facade what you see today.

There are 360 granite, spike-like blocks which cover the facade forming pyramid-shaped reliefs…a type of style that was common during the middle ages. As I studied the building, I was convinced that it was a fortress of some kind but learned that although it mostly operated as a residence, it changed ownership over the years many times and finally transferred to the Ministry of Education in the 1970’s. Today, it functions as a museum and exhibition center and is part of the School of the Applied Arts and Crafts.

Even if it is not a fortress, I thought it interesting to find that the house once belonged to the executioner of the city and that legend states that under one of the peaks, a treasure is hidden! I would have loved to hang around and take a look, but it was not open at the time!

Opening hours are extremely limited and although there is not much to see unless exhibitions are being held, it might be interesting to see the patio which is considered to be the highlight of the structure. Built in the Renaissance style, it is a small space with porticos on three sides with five limestone columns, three at its midpoint and two at small angles and decorated with Talavera tiles that depict the most important monuments of Segovia.

Even if you do not have much time while in Segovia to actually visit the interior, make sure that your path through the city leads you in front of this unparalleled house of spikes!

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Casa de los Picos

  • http://easdsegovia.com/
  • Address: Calle Juan Bravo, 33, 40001 Segovia, Spain
  • Hours: April 1 to September 30, 1200-1400 and 1900-2100, daily. October 1 to March 31, 1200-1400 and 1800-2000, daily.
  • Admission: free

Discovering Antigua

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

We headed to a new country on a whim.

We then headed to a town I knew nothing about.

The unknown was the best part.

We could hate it…or it could be one of our most memorable trips yet!

One of the best parts of travel is discovering new places and cultures.  I find it extremely exhilarating to explore a new city and find out what makes it tick! 

What was it about Antigua Guatemala that makes it worthy to have received the distinction of UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979?

Antigua Guatemala means “Old Guatemala” and was the third capital of Guatemala, after earthquakes and uprisings forced the movement of the first two.  Located in the central highlands of Guatemala, it is known for its beautifully preserved Spanish Baroque-influenced architecture and the large number of colonial churches ruined during previous years earthquakes. 

Laid out in a square pattern, with streets running from north to south and east to west, we found that La Antigua (as it is sometimes referred to) was quite easy to navigate.  As we set out onto the cobblestone streets, we passed many buildings that had been damaged during earthquakes. Rather than appearing as eyesores, however, these buildings, including the Antiguo Colegio de la Campaña de Jesús among others, add character to the charming city,

The Antiguo Colegio de la Campaña de Jesús is located next to the Spanish Embassy and was once a Jesuit monastery and college, established in 1626.  After the Jesuits were expelled in 1767, the great earthquake that hit six years later, left the unoccupied building in ruins.  Though we were unable to venture directly into the main part of the building, the Spanish government, which restored most of the complex, has turned it into a cultural center.  Outside, we were able to admire the extravagantly carved (yet mostly headless) statues that grace the facade of the main building, but inside the complex, we were able to enjoy serene courtyards and abundant pieces of artwork on display.

Continuing our journey, we came to the heart of the city, the Plaza Mayor.  This central plaza is a gathering spot for locals and visitors and is centered with a fountain.  There are large trees that offer shade during the hottest parts of the day and benches to rest and talk.  Due to the large number of visitors in town for the Holy Week’s festivities, there were many vendors attempting to peddle their wares and many locals in traditional dress. The perfect spot for people-watching!

Surrounding the square are a large number of restaurants, shops and banks, including the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, which incorporates the headquarters of the Guatemala Institute of Tourism, the Antigua Tourism Association, the National Police and the Sacatepquez Department government. 

Dominating the eastern side of the Plaza Mayor is the Antigua Guatemala Cathedral.  The original church, built in 1541, was damaged heavily by many earthquakes over the years.  The original church was demolished in 1669 and rebuilt and consecrated in 1680.  The largest in Central America at the time, it was filled with precious works of art and housed the remains of Conquistador Pedro de Alvarado and his wife, Beatriz de la Cueva.  In 1773, the catastrophic Santa Marta earthquake demolished much of the city and movement of the capital to (what is now known as) Guatemala City, was deemed necessary.  This earthquake also seriously damaged most of the cathedral.  Belonging to the parish of San Jose, the cathedral’s interior presently only occupies the entrance hall of the original edifice.  It is not as richly decorated as I would have imagined, but it was nice to see the stations of the cross and the other holy statues, especially those decked out for Semana Santa.

As we walked out of the back doors into a cemented courtyard, we admired the exterior architecture of not only the cathedral but the buildings surrounding the cathedral.  Noticing an entryway, we approached and found that we could investigate the ruins that remain from when the cathedral was demolished by the massive earthquake of 1773.  Paying our entry fee, we walked through the remains of this once grand cathedral, mostly open above so that we could glimpse the blue sky.  Though it takes a bit of imagination to envision how the cathedral once looked, it was exciting to walk through the structure, examining the ruined chapels and seeing the remains of the carved details atop the columns. 

Something we learned was that after the destruction of the church, it temporarily served as a cemetery.  Many tunnels have been discovered under the cathedral and we were also able to descend into the South Crypt.  A dark, damp place, there was not much to see, but you can imagine the many souls that have come to rest here. 

In the rear of the remains, we found a work area where many pieces are being restored or placed for safekeeping.  Despite the absence of many walls and a ceiling, this cathedral took my breath away for the purity that still remains.  Much like visiting the Acropolis in Athens or the Forum in Rome, the detritus of this ancient structure leave much to the imagination, yet take your breath away at the same time. 

After leaving the cathedral, we walked past the park once again, heading back to our hotel so that we could spend some time refreshing ourselves for much needed nourishment.

A couple of blocks from our hotel, on the corner of Alameda de Santa Lucia and 5a Calla Poniente, we peered through the gates at what we later learned was the Landivar Monument, dedicated to poet and local, Rafael Landivar.  Built in 1953, this monument, erected in a park-like setting, pays tribute to the beloved writer and Jesuit priest who lived from 1731 until 1793.  Though we walked by this peaceful place, every day, we never seemed to find the gates unlocked, though we were told that it would be open daily.  Content to spy on its tranquility through the iron bars, we decided to save this for a future visit. 

After a recommendation from our hotel for dinner, we headed back into the night seeking out the restaurant, La Fonda de la Calle Real, located near the Plaza Mayor. As we approached the park, we learned for the first time what the Santa Semana processions of this small city consisted of.

Hundreds of people lined the street of Poniente, which runs east to west, adjacent to the park. Processing down the street was a lighted, massive, religious, wooden shrine hoisted on the shoulders of a religious guild. Moving and swaying slowly to the melancholy music of the accompanying band, we watched in awe as the barge, complete with life-size effigies of the Virgin Mary and Jesus, passed a few feet from us. Many others marched with the procesiónes, dressed in robes and waving censers clouding the air with the smoke from burned incense.

As a Catholic, it was something to see…inspiring, touching and thrilling all at the same time!

Once the crowds dispersed, we finally headed to La Fonda unequivocally anticipating some delectable Guatemalan cuisine. Seated in a courtyard, open to the night sky, we started with guacamole and then both chose the traditional dish, Suban-iq, chicken, pork and beef slowly cooked in banana leaves, covered in a tomato, chilies and spices sauce. Accompanied by homemade tortillas (being made by a lady near the entryway), the food was delicious and just what we needed after our long day of travel and sightseeing.

Heading back to our hotel, stomachs filled, we eagerly readied ourselves for bed and within seconds, my mind reeling from all that we had experienced so far, I was asleep.

Not for long.

Shaken from my sleep, I sat up and realized that we had experienced our first earthquake! Though I was able to go back to sleep immediately, my son said that there were three or four aftershocks, making him a bit nervous, knowing that there were three nearby volcanoes.

What can I say? All in a days time, we had discovered so much! A new country, a new city, a new culture, new religious traditions, new foods and something entirely new (and a bit scary) to the both of us…an earthquake.

Yes, we were discovering Antigua…and this was only Day One!

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Antiguo Colegio de la Campana de Jesus

  • Address: H747XQ Antigua, Guatemala
  • Hours: 1000-1700
  • Admission: free

Plaza Mayor

  • Hours: 24 hours
  • Admission: free

Antigua Guatemala Cathedral

  • Address: 5a Calle Oriente 5, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
  • Hours: 0900-1700
  • Admission: Main church, free. Ruins, Q20 (about $3.00 US)

Landivar Monument

  • Address: Alameda de Santa Lucia, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
  • Hours: daily
  • Admission: free

La Fonda de la Calle Real

The Largest Clock Tower

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

After visiting Zurich’s Predigerkirche, I was on a quest to make it to the last of the city’s four major churches that I had not visited before the end of the day.

The Church of St. Peter’s.

Problem was, there were so many photos to take in the beautiful Neumarkt area that I kept getting sidetracked!

Finally, crossing the river, it was easy to find the oldest parish church in Zurich. Standing on the former site of an ancient Roman temple to the god Jupiter, the church’s clock tower is said to be the largest in Europe and can be spied from most locations within the city. With a clock face measuring almost nine meters in diameter, it is an amazing site to behold!

Arriving at the church, we discovered, as did other tourists arriving at the same time, that the entrance was opposite of where we thought.

Making our way down the stairs, through the alley and back up another set of stairs, we finally found a courtyard with some interesting art pieces. Not even convinced that this was the entrance, we made our way inside to discover what makes this church interesting.

In 1345, the church was acquired by the city’s first mayor, Rudof Brun. His grave and monument can be seen by the outer tower wall. The first pastor, Leo Jud, served from 1523 until 1542 and contributed to the first translation of the Bible in Zurich. The church’s second pastor, J.C. Lavater, served from 1778 until 1801 and was so popular that people reserved seats for Sunday mass. His gravestone is in the courtyard, to the left of the entrance, on the church wall.

As I walked into the church, I noticed immediately the similarities between St. Peter’s and the Predigerkirche. The first church in Zurich that was built as a Protestant place of worship, after the Reformation during the eighth century, St. Peter’s exhibits the same elegant, simplicity although its tower and choir date back from a Romanesque church built in 1230.

During the Middle Ages, the short spire windows of the tower was the home of the town watchman, whose duty was to look out of the windows every fifteen minutes for signs of fire. Should a fire be spotted, he would sound an alarm and hang a flag out of the window facing the fire. Since Zurich, unlike so many other cities, never endured a major fire, the system worked well.

As I walked through the interior of the church, I took note of the three-aisled Baroque nave and the Romanesque choir that still contains some faded medieval murals. Above the pulpit, the name of God in Hebrew can be spotted, reflecting the Reformation emphasis on the original biblical languages. Another important feature of the church is the original 9th century foundation walls which can still be seen beneath the chancel.

In addition, St. Peter’s contains a baptismal font, dating back to 1598 and richly carved choir chairs from the 15th century. These chairs were transported to the church from the suppressed convents of the city. Make sure to take a look upward at the beautiful crystal chandeliers and the wood paneled gallery.

Even though, I initially thought that St. Peter’s was so very like the Predigerkirche, I learned from my visit that this church had a much richer history and much more to discover in its interior.

If you are taking a stroll through the streets of Zurich, take a look upward, find the largest clock tower and head that way! Its worth the visit!

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St. Peter’s Church

  • https://www.st-peter-zh.ch/home.html
  • Address: St. Peterhofstatt 2, 8001 Zürich, Switzerland
  • Hours: Monday-Friday, 800-1800, Saturday, 1000-1600, Sunday, 1100-1700
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Tram, stop Paradeplatz

The Preacher’s Church

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

If you are a church lover (like me!) and visiting Zurich, there are four churches that are must-sees!

The Grossmunster, the Fraumunster, the Church of St. Peter and the Predigerkirche.

Cloudy, drizzly day aren’t optimal for day trips outside of the city so I decided, instead, to head toward the train station and into the old town area of Zurich to seek out the two churches I had never visited on previous trips.

The Predigerkirche, the Preacher’s Church, was first built in 1231 AD as a Romanesque church, the largest in the city and converted in the first half of the 14th century when the choir was rebuilt and the high bell tower was added. Originally part of a monastery of the Dominican Order, the church appears to have been modeled after the Basilica of San Domenico in Bologna which was the most important church of the Dominicans and where their founder, Saint Dominic was buried in 1221. The church is now used as the “open town church” or a place of encounter with its side aisles containing a library, easy chairs and a dining area for free Sunday lunches. It also employs a Catholic priest and celebrates joint masses with Muslims and Buddhists and is often the site of evening concerts.

With my excitement growing as I turned off of Limmatquai street and made my way up the hill, I could see the beautiful bell tower of the church which is regarded as the highest Gothic edifice in Zurich. As I arrived at the church on Zahringerplatz, however, I was a bit disappointed with the church’s plain facade. Though the high window-lined walls of the side and rear of the church were a bit more interesting, I simply could not believe that this was was the entrance, especially with its magnificent bell tower!

Entering the church, I was also a bit underwhelmed. Appearing to be elegant and modern at first glance, I began to walk around the space, hoping for more detail. The high arched ceiling caught my attention and lent to the lofty atmosphere along with the wide, square columns which divided the space. Although the ceiling was decorated with light gold rosettes and molding, it was quite disappointing combined with the plain altar. Beautiful in its own right…I guess I am used to the extravagantly decorated churches of Italy!

As I turned to the rear of the church, the magnificent organ in the gallery caught my eye. Now, this piece definitely gives the church a bit of extravagance. I had noticed that there were other smaller organs scattered throughout the church but this pipe organ, built by Paul Hintermann and Jakob Schmidt, is the showstopper. It was installed in 1970, after the original (1503) was broken during the Reformation struggle and the replacement (1879), was deemed unworthy.

Another piece that caught my eye along the outer perimeter of the church was the grave plate of Heinricus de Ruchentstein, a ministerial member of the House of Rappersil and dates back to 1270. The grave plate is the oldest surviving piece of this kind and the oldest surviving grave plate in Switzerland. It is notable due to its arrangement of the inscription, the absence of the date and a cross.

Exiting the church, I made my way out into the streets of the Neumarkt quarter. Though I was a bit disappointed with my time at the Predigerkirche, it was still an interesting visit and I was glad that I had made my way into this part of the city. Certainly, I couldn’t skip out on seeing the final two of the main churches of the city.

Now, it was off to find St. Peter’s!

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Predigerkirche Zurich

The Climb To the Castle

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

How high can you get in Barcelona?

Very high!

There are some amazing places in Barcelona to get beautiful views of the city.

The Montjuic Castle, the sight of an old military fortress, was a place I had been vowing to visit on one of my trips to Barcelona, yet, I just hadn’t been there with a day clear enough to take advantage of its orientation high above the city and the fantastic views it offered.

Starting my journey, I ventured out to the Plaza d’Espana metro station so that I could walk up the steps to the Museum of National Art of Catalonia and get a bit of exercise. The views here are also incredible as is the architecture and the Magic Fountain which can be seen in all its glory during operating hours (see schedule below).

Passing the gardens along Passeig de Santa Madrona, I made my way to the Avinguda de L’Estadi and the Telefèric de Montjuïc . Always looking for a fun way to travel, I assumed that the
telefèric would be an amazing way to get up to the castle…and to be honest, I was quite tired!

Thrilled to find no line, I was able to secure my own cable car, allowing for optimum photographic opportunities. However, with the car being so light and the wind so strong, the swinging of the car from side to side was a bit daunting as we made the final stretch of the journey to the castle.

Stepping out of the telefèric station, I was happy to find the castle’s location right alongside, providing some instant photographic gratification.

Heading to the front of the castle, I found it to be much larger than I had anticipated and I admired the four bastions at each corner of the curtain wall. Crossing the bridge to the castle, which traversed the Santa Eulàlia Moat, I discovered it to be no longer filled with water, but with beautiful flowers and grassy areas.

Purchasing my ticket, I ventured onto the castle’s sea wall. There are many pieces of artillery and sculpture and entryways to the castle’s dungeon, but the most stunning is the 360º views of the port, the Mediterranean, the coastline and the area of Baix Llobregat.

Making my way around the castle I admired the architecture and the landscaping, eyeing the fruit trees at the rear of the property which made me realize how hungry I was, thinking maybe I would have to check out the cafe.

Entering the interior courtyard of the castle, the parade grounds, I ventured through the passageways, enjoying the displays at the rear of the castle highlighting the Mountain of Barcelona and how its position in the city has affected historical events, the Prison and Memory of Barcelona which tells about the castle’s history as a military prison and an exhibit which details The Search of Freedom.

Finally making my way to the terrace, the highest point of the castle, I took in the amazing views of Barcelona, Montjuïc Hill and the castle itself. On the roof, above the entrance, standing tall, is the square watchtower that signaled the arrival of ships through a system of sails during the day and bonfires at night. On the tower’s eastern and western facades, there are two sundials, dating back to 1777, which once was responsible for giving the time in the morning (eastern facing) and for the afternoon (western facing). A plaque on the base of the tower describes the tower as the location where the French astronomer Pierre Méchain obtained the geographical coordinates of Barcelona in 1792 and 1793 and established the trig point that would serve to measure the meridian from Dunkirk. The length of this meridian, linking Barcelona, Paris and Dunkirk, was used as the basis of the metric system.

From a sign posted near the tower, I learned that tours of the watchtower are conducted three to four times a day in both English and Catalan. Since I had missed the tour times, I had to content myself with enjoying the views from the outside. Making a mental note of the tour times, I decided that it would be important to plan the next visit according to the times posted, as I discovered that the guide also takes you down to the dungeons where extensive graffiti has been uncovered, made by those were imprisoned there during different stages of the building’s history.

As I headed back to towards the parade grounds, I located the cafe and eyed the sweet offerings in its showcase. Since it was later in the day, I decided to save my appetite for dinner and enjoy a cold beer in the courtyard instead. It was an amazing end to my day, soaking up both the architectural history and the warm afternoon sun.

As the afternoon came to a close, I wandered back the way I had come, to the telefèric station. Once again, I was able to secure a cable car for myself, only this time, the city was aglow in the light of the setting sun.

After exploring such a beautiful historical setting, I couldn’t image more of a magical ending to a fantastic day. So amazing to be soaring high above the amazing city of Barcelona!

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Monjuic Castle

  • http://ajuntament.barcelona.cat/castelldemontjuic/en
  • Address: Ctra. de Montjuïc, 66, 08038 Barcelona, Spain
  • Hours: March 1 until November 1, 1000-2000, daily. November 2 until February 28, 1000-1800, daily. Closed December 25 and January 1.
  • Admission: Standard admission, 5€, Reduced admission, 3€. Free admission on the first Sunday of the month and Sundays after 1500. Guided tours lasting 1 hour are offered at 1100 and 1500 each day and let visitors discover places within the castle not normally open to the public. Tours, 4€
  • Getting There: By foot. The walk uphill to Montjuïc Castle from the top of the funicular (lower station, Paral.lel, metro lines 2 and 3), adjacent to the cable car station, takes about 20 to 25 minutes. By public transportation. Bus, line 150, origin Avinguda de la reina Maria Cristina, terminus Montjuïc Castle. Bus 150 goes round Montjuïc Hill before finally reaching the Castle. The ride from Plaça d’Espanya takes about 20 minutes. The descent from the Castle to the beginning of the line also takes 20 minutes. Bus 150 also connects with the
    Telefèric de Montjuïc at the bus stop Avinguda de Miramar-Estació del Funicular. The cable car service begins in Avinguda Miramar and leaves visitors in front of the Castle. It has three stops, the first in Avinguda Miramar, one in the middle in the Plaça de la Sardana, and one in front of the Castle. The price of the cable car does not include admission to the Castle. By car. If you arrive by private vehicle, there is a large public car park near the castle on Carrer dels Tarongers.


Telefèric de Montjuïc

  • https://www.telefericdemontjuic.cat/es
  • Address: Avinguda Miramar, 30, 08038 Barcelona, Spain
  • Hours: November-February 1000-1800, daily. March-May, 1000-1900, daily. June-September, 1000-2100, daily. October, 1000-1900, daily.
  • Admission: Adults, 8,40€, one-way, 12,70€ roundtrip. Children, ages 4-12, 6,60€, one-way, 9,20€ roundtrip. Children under age 4, free.

Magic Fountain

  • https://www.barcelona.cat/en/what-to-do-in-bcn/magic-fountain/magic-fountains-show-times
  • Hours: November 1 until January 6, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2000-2100, music and color, 2000 and 2030. January 7 until February 28, closed for maintenance. March 1 until March 31, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2000-2100, music and color, 2000 and 2030. April 1 until May 31, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2100-2200, music and color, 2100 and 2130. June 1 until September 30, Wednesday to Sunday, 2130-2230, music and color, 2130 and 2200. October 1 until October 31, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2100-2200, music and color, 2100 and 2130.
  • Admission: free

Another Arch

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

When I first visited Paris, one of the first things I remember (besides the Eiffel Tower), was the Arc de Triomphe. Located near my hotel, I was fascinated by the grand structure which seemed to have a constant stream of cars driving around it at all hours.

On another trip, I discovered an arch in Milan in the Piazza Sempione, and yet another, in Rome, the Arch of Constantine.

Hey wait, just how many arches are there? I thought this was a Parisian thing!

How wrong I was!

Triumphal arches are the most distinctive type of architecture that is associated with ancient Rome. These arches were mainly used for various reasons, mainly to commemorate the founding of new colonies, generals’ victories, construction of roadways and bridges, deaths of members of the imperial family or the accession of a new emperor.

These arches often span roadways, have one or more arched passageways and are decorated with carvings, sculpted reliefs and dedications.

Arches in the Roman style have been constructed in many cities around the world. Yes, the Arc de Triomphe, Milan’s Arco della Pace and Arch of Constantine, but there are so many more, including the Narva Triumphal Arch in Saint Petersburg, the Wellington Arch in London, the Arcul de Triumf in Bucharest, the India Gate in Delhi, the Arch of Caracalla in Tebessa, Algeria, Arch of Titus in Rome, the Siegestor in Munich and the Soldiers’ and Sailors’ Arch in New York, just to name a few.

A few years later, while walking around in Barcelona, I was surprised to see another arch, very similar to the one in Paris, without the cars. Instead, there were many people walking around and through the arch onto the promenade of the Passeig de Lluis Companys.

Barcelona’s Arc de Triomf was built as the main access gate for the 1888 World Fair, by Josep Vilaseca, and still stands today, a true icon of the city. As it once welcomed visitors, it does so today, guiding them to the Parc de la Ciutadella.

On the day that I decided to revisit this monument, the afternoon was one of those that are hard to duplicate on a winter’s day. The sun was radiant, the sky brilliantly clear and the temperature extremely mild. Hundreds of people walked along the Passeig de Lluis Companys, enjoying the climate’s perfection!

As I approached the arch from Avenida de Vilanova, I marveled at the reddish brickwork standing vividly against the blue sky. The front frieze contains the stone sculpture Barcelona rep les nacions (“Barcelona welcomes the nations”) by Josep Reynes. Walking along the sides of the arch, I studied the friezes which include the stories of agriculture and industry by Antoni Vilanova and of trade and art by Torquat Tassó. The two pillars of the arch feature carved bats, something unexpected, but what I learned, were the emblem of King Jaume I, who ruled Barcelona during a period of prosperity. As I walked through the arch to the other side, I marveled at the number of people out and about as well as vendors hawking everything from jewelry to balloons.

Making my way to the concrete gates that line the Passeig de Lluis Companys, I stopped to study amazing urns that top the concrete gate, while occasionally dodging a biker or two. I especially enjoyed studying the unique lighting structures that also provide seating for visitors as well as a couple of interesting statues, including one of Pau Claris, an important political figure who proclaimed the Catalan Republic under the protection of France.

The best way to appreciate the arch, however, is to stop, turn and take a look at it every so often as you walk toward the Parc de la Ciutadella. Its amazing to see even from afar with the palm trees that line the walkway, framing its beauty.

So…how many have triumphal arches have I seen so far? About five…but with many trips planned for the future, I will be sure to seek them all out.

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Arc de Triomf

Mosteiro dos Jeronimos

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

During my last visit to Lisbon, I made the journey to the coastal area of Belém.  With so many things to see and do there, I was disappointed to realize that there wasn’t sufficient time in my short afternoon to visit all of the landmarks.  During this trip, we were fortunate to be there for the Festival of the Mask, which takes place on the grounds of the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos.

Staring at the beautiful building, I was mesmerized at its intricate facade and decided that this beautiful building would be first on the list of places to visit on my next trip.

One of the most decorative churches in Portugal, the monastery was built on the site of the church dedicated to Santa Maria de Belém on the harbor of Praia do Restelo.  Monks of the military-religious Order of Christ resided here at the time and provided assistance to seafarers in transit.

In 1495, Manuel I inaugurated the construction of the existing structure and the Hieronymites order of monks were chosen to reside in the complex, remaining there for over four centuries.  The building of the time was already in disrepair when Vasco da Gama and his men spent the night in prayer there before departing on their Orient expedition in 1497.

Construction of the monastery was initiated on January 6, 1501 and eventually took 100 years until its completion.  As an overabundance of taxes were collected, architects’ plans grew until it reached the size, scale and style that you see today.  The Manueline ornamentation in the cloisters incorporates maritime elements and objects discovered during naval expeditions, carved in limestone.  The main chapel, the choir and the two stories of the monastery were completed in 1550, however thirty years later, construction was halted as funds were redirected to the Escorialin in Spain as Portugal and Spain united.

After various parts of the monastery was completed in the 1600s (new portal, cloister door, house of the doorkeepers, staircase and a hall that was the entrance to the upper choir), the monastery became the burial place for the royal pantheon.

Additional adornments were completed in the 1700s, including important paintings by artist Henrique Ferreira.  After the earthquake of 1755, much of the artwork and treasures were transferred to the crown or lost and the structure was vacated.

During the late 1800s, restorations began on the property, including the cloisters.  The annex and facade of the church were altered dramatically and are what you see today.

The Monastery of Jerónimos is one of the most visited landmarks in Lisbon and tourists should be aware of long waits to enter…I had no idea.  Fortunately, as I took my place in line, I was informed by a passerby that I could enter the Archaeological Museum next door, purchase my ticket there and skip the line.  Of course, I was a bit skeptical…if I left my place in line and what I was told was inaccurate, it would be back to the end of the line again.  Thankfully, they were correct.  I waited for ten minutes, purchased my ticket and walked past everyone who had been in front of me and was still waiting in the warm afternoon temperatures.

The monastery is truly magnificent, with its carvings of saints over its entryways and fine stone details…make sure to stop by the South Entrance which is truly magnificent.  Once inside, the two level cloister is a sight to behold with pinnacles, gargoyles and other decorative features and long, architectural corridors.

The interior gardens offer a mixture of the Manuelino, European, Moorish and Eastern styles, symbols of the Portuguese empire and its power throughout the world.  Certainly a place to take your time, admire the architecture and spend a bit of time in reflection on one of the many alcoves on the upper level.  Pay particular attention to all of the different carvings on each of the columns…faces, rosettes, dates.

You will also encounter  some of the remains of important figures in Portuguese history, including presidents Teófilo Braga and Oscar Carmona, playwright, Almeida Garrett and modern poet Fernando Pessoa.

The Church of Santa Maria de Belém, in the monastery, does not need a ticket to enter and is truly the highlight of the monastery.  Access to the upper level choir loft is from the monastery, so be sure not to miss it.  Take in the view of the church from above before heading downstairs.  Of particular interest is the crucifix, the beautiful paintings and the carved choir seating all bathed in the subtle light streaming in from the rose window.

 

As I entered the church’s lower lever, my senses were truly overloaded as I was not sure where to set my gaze.  Entering from the side portal, I first encountered the tombs of Vasco da Gama and Luís de Camões which are located in the lower choir.  These magnificent tombs, designed by sculptor Costa Mota can be admired from all angles and both offer extreme detail.  The baptismal chapel is also located near the side doors as well as the exquisite Altar Dourado.  Along the north wall are beautiful confessionals and large stained glass windows decorate the space, allowing alluring filtered light to enter.

Tomb of Vasco da Gama

Tomb of Luís de Camões

Baptismal Chapel

Altar Dourado

As I walked around the church and marveled at the amazing details that decorated every niche, every column and every arch, I encountered the remains of Cardinal-King Dom Henrique and the children of Manuel I as well as the tomb of King Sebastião and the descendants of King João III.

Make sure to walk near the altar for a closer look at the beautifully painted walls and golden tabernacle.  The golden organ is also located at the front of the church.

Overall, my visited lasted just over an hour and I was touched by the artistry and grandeur of this amazing place.

When visiting Lisbon, make sure to head over to Belem to experience some of the most beautiful architecture in the city.  Worth any amount of time you may have to spend in line, Jerónimos Monastery is a masterpiece!

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Monsteiro dos Jerónimos

  • http://www.mosteirojeronimos.gov.pt/pt/index.php
  • Address:  Praça do Império 1400-206 Lisboa, Portugal
  • Hours:  October to April, 1000-1730, May to September, 1000-1830.   Closed Mondays, January 1, Easter Sunday, May 1, June 13 and 25 December.
  • Admission:  Individuals, 10€.  Combination ticket, Monastery and National Archaeological Museum, 12€.  50% discount for 65 years and older.  Family ticket, 50% discount for 2 adults, 2 children, ages 0-18.
  • Getting There:  #15 Tram from the city center runs to Belem
  • Additional Information:  Gift shop located within the monastery as well as an exhibit on the history and construction of the monastery.

By Land and By Sea

© 2018 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Two forts, one city.

My favorite thing about San Juan is its two forts, Castillo San Felipe del Morro and San Cristobal.  Having visited both two times before, you would think that I would look to find something else.  Well, there are lots of other things in Old Town, but I never tire of these old structures…truly a photographers dream!

Castillo San Felipe del Morro and San Cristóbal, are two forts that were built to protect the city, the former from attacks from the sea and the latter, attacks from land.

Exiting our cruise ship, the first thing on my agenda was San Cristóbal.  Near the port, I knew that it was a short walk that would take me through Plaza de Colón and to the gates of the fort.  Starting early, to make the most of our short time in San Juan, I could beat the crowds, photograph to my hearts content, still stroll the city and also see El Morro.

 

Castillo San Cristóbal, a San Juan Historic Site, stands guard at the eastern gate, the land entrance, to the walled city of Old San Juan.  After 149 years of construction, the fort was completed in 1783, although modifications were made throughout next century.  The fortification covered about 27 acres of land, sitting on a hill originally known as the Cerro de la Horca, and basically wrapped around the city of San Juan allowing entry through its heavily guarded double gates.

Although the largest fortification built by the Spanish in the New World stood ready to defend the city against land attacks, not much action was seen.  A land attack by the British in 1797 (under the command of Sir Ralph Abercrombe) did not make it as far as the fort and until 1898, the only dilemma was a 24 hour mutiny by soldiers living inside the fort against the Spanish crown.  Finally, in 1898, the first shots of the Spanish-American War were fired when Puerto Rico was under military attack from U.S. Navy warships.  Though the Spanish military attempted to retaliate, its old cannons and the fort could not withstand the assault, surrendering within 24 hours.  Only six months later, Puerto Rico became a territory of the United States.

After Puerto Rico’s acquisition, the United States maintained an active military base at the fort with the additions of concrete pillboxes and an underground bunker control center during World War II.  In 1961, once the U.S. Army vacated the premises, the U.S. National Park Service gained control and San Cristobal and El Morro were designated as museums and both were also declared as World Heritage Sites by the United Nations.

Over the years, with the city’s growth, part of San Cristóbal and a large segment of the city wall was was demolished to allow for flow of traffic in and out of the city.

The fort has two entrances, one off of Norzagaray Street and one off of Munoz Rivera Avenue.  Since I was coming from the cruise ship terminal, I entered from the latter, however, the former is much more dramatic and one used by those coming from El Morro along the route near the water.  If you choose to enter from Munoz Rivera, make sure to exit from other entrance to admire its sweeping ramp and grand appearance.

There are many things to see within the fort that can be observed with or without a guide.  Three popular tours offered include, The Tunnels Tour which offer treks through the tunnels of the fort and include historical information about these hidden defenses, The Outworks Tour, which brings you to the outworks to see the land defenses and the The Lantern Light Tour, offered twice a week, which informs of soldier’s lives within the fort.  In addition, every hour on the hour, free 20-30 minute Daily Orientation Talks are led by park rangers which explain life in the fort.

Since I had opted not to participate in one of the daily walks or tours, I was on my own with my map, looking forward to seeing all of the things that make San Cristóbal special.

Beginning with the short movie that is run continuously throughout the day, on the hour and the half hour (Spanish on the quarter and three quarters of the hour), I learned about the battles and the construction of the forts.  Some of the relics from the forts times of battle are also on display in the Visitor Center.

Continuing through the long tunnel, I then found myself in the heart of the fort.  There are so many passageways to explore, it is quite a bit difficult to determine, at times, which way to go.  Some of the main items you want to make sure you see are:

Tunnel Systems:  There are many tunnels to explore throughout the fort, one in particular, leading to the dungeon.

Cisterns:  These extremely large cisterns were used for the transport of water during the times of the Spanish Colony and also used as bomb shelters during World War II.

Santa Barbara Chapel:  Located in the central plaza, the chapel was built for the fort’s occupants to offer prayers and worship.  Santa Barbara is the patron saint of persons in danger of fire and explosions and for this reason, the chapel was especially important to the cannoneers working with their dangerous weapons.

Military Uniforms:  A display of uniforms of the soldiers gives insight into how uncomfortable these men must have been in the Caribbean heat.  Made of wool and/or cotton, they were layered and included coats and tights.

Living Quarters:  Beds, uniforms and dining tables are displayed to show how the troops’ quarters looked when the fort was in use.  Make sure to check out the window shutters with graffiti etched into it…ships, dates and Spanish words.

Cannon Balls:  There are many piles of cannonballs, weighing approximately 200 pounds each, on the upper level of the fort.

Flags:  Check out the flags blowing in the breeze, the United States flag, the Puerto Rican flag and the Cross of Burgundy flag.  The latter is a white flag with a red X and was t he Spanish military flag used from the 16th to 18th centuries to identify warships, forts and regiments of troops loyal to the king of Spain.

Sentry Boxes (Garitas):  Located around the outer walls of the fort, the garitas offered a vantage point to watchmen who were guarding the shore.  One particular garita, Garita del Diablo, located by itself close to the water in one of the oldest parts of the fort, is of particular interest to tourists.  Legend tells that guards on duty in this garita, would disappear, taken away by the devel.  Though stories must have run rampant during this time, it was more likely that the guards took advantage of the garitas remote location to escape.  Though this sentry box is inaccessible to tourists, it can still be seen.  There are many other garitas that can be entered and used for photo opportunities.

Outworks:  To the east of the fort is a large stretch of lawn along with some buildings.  This is the Outworks of the fort.  Take a walk around the area to the the layers of defense (moats and walls) from a different perspective.

With so much to enjoy here, take your time to see all parts of San Cristobal.  In addition to the photo opportunities it provides within its walls, its city and coastal views are incredible!  I could see both the Carnival Sunshine and Royal Caribbean’s ships docked as well as other beautiful buildings throughout the city.  Make sure to stand along the water side and take in the panoramic views of the coast from Old San Juan to Condado and beyond…truly spectacular!

After leaving San Cristóbal, it is approximately a one mile picturesque walk to Castillo San Felipe del Morro along Calle Norzagaray.  Since I wanted to stroll through the center of town, doing some shopping along the way, I used Calle Fortaleza then, Calle Clara Lair to the Old City Gate.  Walking along the outer walls on the  Paseo de Morro, I walked along the water, looking out to El Canuelo, another smaller fortification on Goat Island, and made my way through the grounds of Castillo San Felipe del Morro to the front entrance.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro, or El Morro, as it is affectionately known, sits high atop a bluff overlooking the entrance to San Juan Bay.  One of the largest fortifications built by the Spanish in the Caribbean, it took over 250 years to complete (1787) and was built to protect San Juan from invaders by sea.

After crossing the bridge to the fort, I showed my receipt from San Cristóbal and began my own tour of El Morro.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro, named in honor of King Philip II of Spain, lies on the northwestern-most point of the islet of Old San Juan.  Construction of the citadel and its surrounding walls began in 1539, on orders of King Charles V of Spain, seeking a way to defend the port of San Juan by controlling entry to the harbor.  The final design, drawn up in 1587, was based on Spanish military fortification principles of that time and similar structures can be seen throughout the Caribbean and Latin America in Cuba, Dominican Republic, Mexico, Panama, Guatemala and Honduras.

El Morro’s six levels rise from the sea to a height of 145 feet and offer an imposing sight to those arriving by sea.  Nevertheless, El Morro suffered many attacks over the years, from the English in both 1595 and 1598 and from the Dutch in 1625.  During the Spanish-American War, U.S. Navy ships fired upon El Morro, destroying the lighthouse.  As mentioned above, the war ended with the Treaty of Paris, in which Spain ceded ownership of islands of Puerto Rico to the United States.

After the U.S. acquired Puerto Rico, many government buildings, including El Morro, became part of a large U.S. Army post, Fort Brooke.  The large green space in front of El Morro was filled with a hospital, officer’s quarters, officer’s club and sports facilities.  The U.S. Army also added a massive concrete bunker to the top of El Morro to serve as a Harbor Defense Fire Control Station, during World War II, to watch for German submarines.

In 1961, the fort became part of the National Park Service when the United States Army officially retired from the fort.  Declared a World Heritage Site by the United Nations, the esplanade was cleared and restored giving citizens and visitors a wide open space to enjoy the sunny Caribbean days.  Today you can see many people flying kites in the afternoon trade winds, a beautiful site with the castillo in the background.

While walking through the ancient fortification, make sure to take in the case mates, where countless arms were fired and the chapel, where no doubt many a soldier prayed for redemption and safety.  As with San Cristóbal, check out the sentry boxes, or garitas scattered throughout the structures upper levels.

My favorite part, however, is the restored lighthouse.  Sitting 180 feet above sea level, the lighthouse was completed in 1908.  On the upper levels you can also see the same three flags flown on San Cristóbal…the U.S. flag, the Puerto Rican flag and the Cross of Burgundy flag.

Looking out at the massive grounds, the property spreads out along 70 acres, including the killing grounds and the esplanade.  Nearby, you can see the nearby Cemetery of Santa Maria Magdalena de Pazzi.

An interesting fact about El Morro was that it was used as a film set in 1996 for the movie, Amistad, directed by Steven Spielberg, representing a fort in Sierra Leone, where slaves were auctioned in 1839.  Interesting indeed, since slave labor was used to build El Morro.

Castillo San Felipe del Morro is a most amazing structure and if you arrive or depart on a cruise ship, you are in for a treat!  In the afternoon sunlight, you glide right by the Old City Gate, Paseo de Morro and the regal El Morro perched high on its promontory.  One of the most beautiful sights of Puerto Rico!

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Castillo San Cristobal

  • https://www.nps.gov/saju/index.htm
  • San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico
  • Hours:  Open daily, 0900-1800, closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day
  • Admission:  Adult, $7.00, Children under 15 years, free.  Admission covers entrance to both forts.
  • Tunnels Tour:  English, 1030, Wednesday, 1030 and 1430, Saturdays.  Spanish, 1430, Wednesday and 1030 and 1230, Sundays.   Approximately 1 hour, maximum group size, 15 people.  Sign up at the front desk prior to the tour.
  • Outworks Tour:  Spanish, Saturdays, 1430, English, Sundays, 1430.
  • Lantern Light Tour:  Spanish, Sundays, 1800-1900, English, Tuesdays, 1800-1900.  Ranger led.

 

Castillo San Felipe del Morro

  • https://www.nps.gov/saju/index.htm
  • Address:  501 Calle Norzagaray, San Juan, 00901, Puerto Rico
  • Hours:  Open daily, 0900-1800, closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day
  • Admission:  Adult, $7.00, Children under 15 years, free.  Admission covers entrance to both forts.
  • Tours:  El Morro, Keystone to Protection of the Spanish Empire Tour, English, Saturdays, 1030 English and Sundays, 1430.  Spanish, Saturdays, 1430 and Sundays, 1030.  Short informational talks are available every day in the main plaza of Castillo San Felipe del Morro

Make sure to wear comfortable shoes when visiting either of the forts as some of the flooring can be uneven, slippery and offer lots of stairways and bring lots of water, especially on hot days as the heat is intensified by the stone.

 

For Athen’s Athletes…

© 2017 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

It’s time for your morning jog…imagine running on a track rich in history.   A place where ancient athletes once competed…

In Athens, you can!

Most visitors to Athens, make sure to see the Acropolis, the Ancient Agora and the Forum, but many don’t realize that the Panathenaic stadium is actually one of the most significant monuments in Athens and in all of Greece.

Located in the central Athens district of Pangrati, it is here that the Olympic flame sets up its journey to the cities of the Olympic games and is one of my favorite places to visit!

In 330 BC, a simple racecourse was built on the site and became the location of the Great Panathenaea, the religious and athletic festival celebrated every four years to honor the goddess Athena.   With no formal seating, spectators sat on the inclines of the adjacent ravine to view the festivities.

In 144 AD, the stadium was rebuilt by Athenian Roman senator, Herodes Atticus, also responsible for many other structures throughout the country.  Constructed entirely out of marble, it was a place for the masses with 50,000 seats.  By the fourth century, however, the stadium was abandoned when Hellenistic festivals and bloody spectacles were banned by Roman Emperor Theodosius I and the structure fell into ruin.

After archaeological excavations uncovered the stadium in 1869, it was readied, once again, for use.  By 1870, interest was shown in a revival of the original Olympic Games and thus the Zappas Olympics was held at the stadium that year and again in 1875.  Refurbishment, approximately 20 years later, prepared the stadium for the opening and closing ceremonies and as a venue for four sports for the first modern Olympics in 1896.

During the 20th century, the stadium was once again used as an Olympic venue when Athens hosted the 28th Summer Olympic Games in 2004.  With the motto, “Welcome Home”, this Olympics marked the return of the games to the city where they began.  More importantly, a new medal design was introduced replacing one used since 1928.  Guiseppe Cassioli, had designed a medal with a colossal mistake…a design depicting the Roman Colosseum rather than a Greek venue.  The new design, rightfully, featured the Panathenaic Stadium.

Today, you can visit the stadium, take a seat on the smooth marble seats in the stands or run the well-maintained track.  Not only it is great exercise to take a jog, but make sure to make the steep climb to the top of the stadium for an excellent view of the overall complex and the surrounding areas.

Two interesting Greek statues grace the far part of the track…your audio guide, included in your admission, will tell you about them…but be sure to take a close look.

Also, be certain not to miss the permanent exhibition located at the far left side of the stadium, through the vaulted passage, which contains original Olympic Games posters and torches from 1896 until today.   Each torch is so unique to the host country, it is quite interesting to see them up close.

Lastly, when departing the exhibition and returning to the stadium’s interior, walk slowly through the vaulted passage…think back to the athletes as they breathed deeply, readied their minds and made they way toward their dream.

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Panathenaic Stadium

  • http://www.panathenaicstadium.gr/Contact/tabid/93/language/en-US/Default.aspx 
  • Address:  Vasileos Konstantinou Anevue (opposite the statue of Myron Discobolus)  Athens 116 35
  • Hours:  March-October, 0800-1900, November-February, 0800-1700
  • Admission:  Adults, 5.00€, Children under 6, free, Students and over 65 years, 2.50€, persons with disabilities and those accompanying them, free.  Audio guide included.