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A View From the Top

© 2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Cotopaxi, Ecuador’s second highest peak.

19,347 feet.

We didn’t go there.

When looking for interesting tours and things to do on our visit to Quito, we considered Cotopaxi, but I was concerned about the altitude, even for the tours that only ascended halfway. After our experience in Cuzco the year before at 11,200 feet, where we took altitude medication and I experienced shortness of breath, I wasn’t sure it was something that I was ready for on this trip.

For a view of the city, we decided to head to the TeleferiQo, one of the primary tourist attractions. Opened in July 2005, this gondola, is one of the world’s highest aerial lifts, taking passengers on a 2.5 kilometer ride from the edge of the city up the eastern side of Pichincha volcano to the Cruz Loma lookout. And…for those who know that Spanish name for gondola is teleférico, the ride’s official name is a combination of “teleférico” and “Quito”…TeleferiQo! Don’t you love that?

Since I had not done much research on this attraction, we were surprised to find what a long ride to the top it was and how high we actually ascended.

Exiting the tram, after almost eighteen minutes, and making our way around the lookout area, we were amazed at the views of the surrounding volcanoes and mountains. Most of all, we could not believe we were at an altitude of 13,451 feet! Much higher than Cuzco!

Taken aback, I began to worry about the respiratory issues I had in Cuzco and immediately thought that we should take the gondola back down. My husband, however, persuaded me to take a walk around and see where the numerous paths would lead.

Thank goodness he did!

After taking in the sweeping views of the nearby mountains and volcanoes, we made our way along one of the paths leading to the Ermita de la Dolorosa, a small chapel, dedicated to Our Lady of Sorrows, which boasts that it is one of the closest to the sky.

Moving on, we followed the narrow, dusty path upwards to the start of the trail to Rucu Pichincha. Though we were not planning on hiking the five hour journey to that summit at 15,000 feet, there was much to see from the many overlooks in the area.

Along the way, I encountered a gentleman with both an alpaca and a llama offering the opportunity to take a picture with them. Donning the hat and poncho he draped me in, I held on and stood between the two animals. My two new amigos and I looked great against the beautiful blue sky and golden Ecuadorian landscape.

A short walk away, we encountered a set of swings. A little daunting, as it is located on the edge of a cliff, you almost feel as though you are going to fly off the mountain. Once you get used to the feeling of swinging so high over the city, your inner child takes over and it’s quite exhilarating!

The path continued a little further to for those desiring to hike or rent horses to continue on to Rucu Pinchincha. Here, we took in the different perspectives while zipping up to protect ourselves from the wind and dropping temperature of the waning afternoon.

Heading back down to the restaurant, we decided to take a break, have a snack and a beer and warm up before taking the 18 minute ride back to the teleférico’s base.

For all of the excitement of realizing that we had made it up so high in Quito, the adventure was enlightening. Had I realized that we were trying to ascend to such a high altitude, heck, maybe I wouldn’t have tried it. After the fact, however, I realized how little effect the altitude had on me and we probably could have gone to Cotopaxi. Nevertheless, our exploits on the volcano’s eastern slope were quite memorable!

If you are planning a trip to the TeleferiQo there are a few things to consider.

Mornings are considered the optimum time to visit as clouds tend to congregate on the summit later in the day. We were lucky and had a clear afternoon, however.

When purchasing tickets, a photo ID must be presented and the ticket stub retained for the return trip as it serves as a built-in alert system in case hikers do not return when expected.

Dress warmly and in layers as it gets colder and windy at the high altitude.

Stay hydrated.

Be aware of the signs of altitude sickness which may present itself, even at the Cruz Loma lookout, to those who are susceptible.

Acclimate in Quito for a couple of days before attempting to hike to Rucu Pichincha. The hike can be done alone or with a qualified guide. You can also hire horses ($15 per hour).

Weekends tend to be quite busy.

For those with children, a stop at the Vulcan amusement park at the base of the teleférico is a must!

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TelefériQo

  • https://teleferico.com.ec/
  • Address: Off Avenue Occidental, Taxi is 3 Easiest, Quito, Pinchincha 17050  
  • Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, 0900-2000, Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday, 0800-2000
  • Admission: Adults, $8.50, Children under 18 years, $7.00, Senior citizens, $6.50, Fast Pass, $11.00. Discounted rates for Ecuadorian citizens with identification.
  • Getting There: By car, take the Av. Occidental (Mariscal Sucre) in North-South sense (towards the Tunnels). At a distance of approximately 3-4 minutes from Av. Mariana de Jesús, the entrance is at the height of the neighborhood “La Comuna”. You will go up a street until you reach the parking lot of the Telefériqo or take José Berrutieta Street, which can be accessed by Gasca Street at the intersection with Ritter Street. Upon entering José Berrutieta Street, you will reach the intersection with Antonio Herrera Street. You must continue along José Berrutieta street, go under a bridge and take Fulgencio Araujo street. Then you take the uphill street where you can see signs of the Telefériqo until you reach the parking lots. Parking rates are $2.50 per hour or fraction. By bus, Mitad del Mundo bus runs throughout the Av. Occidental (Mariscal Sucre). City buses have two lines, one departing from Miraflores, it can be taken at the Hospital del Seguro or at the Miraflores round and the other departure from the Panecillo and can be taken at any stop in the Tunnels (San Juan, San Roque or San Diego). By Uber or taxi, approximate cost $5.00 from Marisol Sucre.

The Real Middle

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Global Positioning System was introduced in the 1970’s. With this launch, it was determined that the Equator line in Quito, Ecuador was not where originally thought after the eighteenth century Franco-Spanish Geodesic Mission first determined its location.

That’s a big problem, especially when the city invested millions of dollars to build a tourist attraction so that tourists could photograph themselves straddling the imaginary line, marked with yellow, which divides the globe into the northern and southern hemispheres!

Visiting Mitad del Mundo first, we understood the complexity of the situation but took it all in stride. After all, the entire complex was quite charming and entertaining and we could have stayed for much longer if we would have had the time.

After a bit of research, I had found that the Intinan Solar Museum was located a short distance from Mitad del Mundo’s entrance gates and was highly recommended from past visitors.

Guiding my husband along the sidewalk and following the marked location on my iPhone map app, we took a turn onto a gravel drive leading uphill. There didn’t appear to be much here aside from a couple of rundown buildings and the occasional vehicle that passed us by, stirring up the dust on the roadway. My husband, a little skeptical, insisted we turn back, even though a sign at the main road had pointed the way. I, ever the adventurer, insisted we keep going.

Soon, cresting the hill (and much to my husband’s relief), we found the raised walkway leading to the entrance built into the hillside. Greeted by one of the workers, we were directed to the ticket booth and instructed to wait until an English speaking guide became available.

The whole complex was fairly small but well appointed with Ecuadorian decor including totem poles that were gifted by other countries and re-creations of cultural villages. As we waited, we inspected the gift shops and grabbed some water from the restaurant.

Our guide soon introduced himself and began his job of escorting us through the village explaining its history and offering a look into Ecuadorian life through exhibits showing daily life including homes, tools and dioramas. Authentic items displayed included a shrunken head, a stuffed anaconda and a burial chamber with a re-created mummy. A demonstration of how chocolate is made from its cacao beginnings was quite compelling, especially when we were offered delicious samples.

The best part of the complex was the interactive demonstrations which took place on the Equator line, marked in red, running through the entire village. These presentations depicted the pull of the equator’s force…trying to walk the equator line with my eyes closed (unsuccessfully, of course), balancing an egg on a nail and draining a basin on the equator line and in both hemispheres. Many reviews refer to these as parlor tricks, but I guess I am quite gullible…I thought they were quite believable, though I could never balance that egg on the nail!

Water drains straight down on the equator line
Water drains clockwise in the southern hemisphere
Water drains counterclockwise in the northern hemisphere

Our entire visit lasted about an hour but was time well spent. Although both equator sites were vastly different, we enjoyed our time at each and I would recommend that anyone visiting Quito make time in their day for a visit to both sites.

But, if someone insisted that I pick a favorite…

The Intinan Solar Museum, by a mile! I loved it for its more intimate feel and the personalized experience we received there.

Visit both and make up your own mind!

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Intinan Solar Museum

The Middle of the World

© 2020 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Passport junkie.

That’s me. A person who wants to fill their passport with as many stamps from as many countries that they can.

This summer, I had done quite a bit of traveling with my family, however, even though we had visited cities to which I had never been, it was to countries that I had already marked off my map.

Scouring airline routes for a new country to visit, I decided that my husband and I could make it down to Quito, Ecuador, somewhere neither of us had ever traveled to, without a lot of fanfare or time off of his schedule.

Arriving late at night, the sky was dark and foggy and their wasn’t much to see at the airport or on our taxi ride to our hotel in the downtown area. So, it suffices to say that I was up early and eager to see what Quito had to offer.

One of the most popular attractions in Quito is the Equator. Yes…that imaginary line that runs through the center of our globe and what Quito is named for. If there was nothing else that we would see, this had to be it!

So you ask…if it’s imaginary, how would we find it?

Uber, of course!

Journeying via Uber for a few miles from the downtown area, our destination was Ciudad Mitad del Mundo (Middle of the World City), the location of where the monument to the equator has been built. Though is is touted that this is the exact location of the equator, as was determined by the eighteenth century Franco-Spanish Geodesic Mission, the World Geodetic System, used in modern GPS systems, actually shows that the equator actually lies about 240 meters north of the marked line.

Oops!

No matter, we would visit this Disney-esque like park and then head to the real Equator location at the Intinan Solar Museum afterward.

Mitad del Mundo Entrance and Ticket Booth

Passing through the entrance, we headed through the well-manicured grounds to the pyramidal monument which dominates the park’s skyline. Each side faces a cardinal direction and the monument is topped with a globe. Naturally, the first thing we (as all other tourists) did was to straddle the yellow “equator” line in front of the monument. For a moment, my husband was in the northern hemisphere and I was in the south…yet only a few inches away from each other!

How cool is that?

We ventured into the monument to visit the small museum that offers insight into the Ecuadorian culture as well as information about the equator and the history of Mitad del Mundo. Working our way through each level, we finally, found ourselves at the top which offers a viewing platform and amazing perspectives of the property and the city and mountains beyond.

Making our way throughout the property, we found it to be quite vast and offering many attractions, including shopping and restaurants along a small colonial square, a llama farm, beer and cocoa museums, a planetarium and replications of ancestral housing. There are three cultural museums, the Ecuadorian Pavilion which offers a look at pre-Columbian art to inform of the history of Ecuador, the France Pavilion, a two-storied space which offers insight into the main contributions provided by the First and Second French Geodetic Mission and the Guayasamin Pavilion where you can appreciate the works of Ecuadorian painter and sculptor Oswaldo Guayasamin, who fought for the rights of the indigenous people. The Cultural Square hosts cultural events on most weekends and there is a small train station which provides transportation throughout the park with commentary emphasizing the history of the park.

Ancestral Housing Replicas

My favorite thing (besides dining on delicious empanadas) was our visit to the chapel modeled after the many churches that dominate the center of Quito. Ascending the bell tower, we had a beautiful view of the monument and the square below, I immediately focused in on this sign.

Oh, yes! I’ve always wanted to ring a church bell!

Descending back into and out of the church, we made our way, next door, to the Virgin’s Museum which highlights the most important Virgins celebrated and worshiped around the world. Just down the street, there was a small grotto, which gives patrons a chance to give thanks and praise to the most important Virgin, the Blessed Virgin Mary.

Although, it would have been easy to spend the greater part of a day here at Ciudad Mitad del Mundo, our itinerary was packed with many of Quito’s attractions and it was time to move on.

Petting the llamas would have to wait until next time!

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Mitad Del Mundo

  • http://www.mitaddelmundo.com/en-us/
  • Address: Manuel Cordova Galarza Km. 13, 5 SN, Quito, Ecuador
  • Hours: 0900-1800, daily
  • Admission: Adults, $5.00, Children (ages 5-12), $2.50, Seniors and Disabled, $2.50, Children under 5, free
  • Getting There: Uber, from the Hilton, about $13.00 US. Quito Tour Bus, $30.00 per Adult, $20.00, reduced fare, departing from the Boulevard of the United Nations. The Mitad del Mundo bus ($.40 per person, adult, $.20 reduced) which runs along the Occidental Avenue (North-South). Buses run approximately every 5 minutes. Taxi rates vary from various parts of the city and arrangements can be made from most hotels for driver to wait for return or transport to other locations throughout the city.

Open Arms

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Distance can certainly skew one’s perception.

Standing high on a cliff above the Tejo estuary, Cristo Rei, Portugal’s answer to Rio’s Christ Statue, beseeches visitors to wend across the Tagus River, to scrutinize its enormity.

As I walked along the waterfront on one of my trips to Lisbon, I glanced across the waterway to the statue, wondering just how big it actually was?

A couple of summers ago, I visited Rio’s iconic statue and marveled at its size as I stood at its base. I had also visited the more modest Christ Cristo Blanco statue in Cuzco a few months later and the Virgin Statue in Quito. Does Cristo Rei measure up to Christ the Redeemer, its inspiration?

While traveling with a friend, who hails from Rio de Janeiro, we debated this topic. As a proud Brazilian, she truly believes that no other Christ statue equals the size of the one that tops Corcovado mountain in Rio. After googling a few dimensions, we were surprised to find that although the actual statue of Christ the Redeemer outshines Cristo Rei by 2 meters, their pedestal heights are remarkably different with the latter statue’s overtaking the former’s by 76 meters.

But looking at them both from afar, why does the one in Lisbon seem smaller than the one in Rio?

With Christ the Redeemer’s location so high on the mountain and Cristo Rei’s location on a hill far across the Tagus River, the disparity of their bearings definitely add to the mystery of how large each actually appear to be.

We decided that we would visit Cristo Rei, stand beneath the statue and see if our perception of the two was the same.

Travel to the statue is not complicated and can be reached by car, traveling across the 25 de Abril Bridge, by train through the station in Pragal and by ferry over the Tagus River, through the port of Cacilhas in Almada. In the interest of time, we decided to take Uber to the ferry port and enjoy the river crossing in the bright, sunny afternoon. Once we reached the opposite shore, we jumped on the bus which deposited us at the gates of the Sanctuary a few minutes later.

Cacilhas port lighthouse
Bus stop outside of ferry terminal, Cacilhas port

Cristo Rei, inaugurated on May 17, 1959, was erected to express gratitude to God for the country being spared the effects of World War II. Taking almost ten years to complete, the statue and has attracted thousands of visitors. Over the years, additions have been made to the grounds, including the Chapel of Our Lady of Peace and a Sanctuary with a rectory, chapel, administration and meeting halls and exhibition galleries.

As we walked through the parking premises, we made our way to the statue’s base and to the entrance facing the river. Paying our admittance, we joined the line waiting for a spot in the elevator which would take us to the viewing platform at the foot of the statue.

Exiting the elevator and climbing the stairway adjacent to the gift shop, we stepped out into the sunshine and glanced upwards.

There it was…Cristo Rei…all ninety-two feet of him!

Making our way around the top of the base, we craned our neck to get a better look at the statue designed by sculptor Francisco Franco de Sousa. Like Christ the Redeemer, the figure of Christ’s arms are extended, facing the city of Lisbon, as if to embrace the city. Standing beneath the statue, we both agreed that our impression of the statues, while in their immediate presence was similar. Even my Brazilian friend was astonished at how large this statue actually was and so similar to Christ the Redeemer!

Remaining for some time, we enjoyed the fascinating views of the city all around us while standing in the shadow of the dominant icon, faced by the bronze Ten Commandments.

Finally, we decided to see all of the other areas that the sanctuary had to offer.

Making our way down within the four arches of the pedestal (oriented in the directions of the compass rose), we visited the Chapel of Our Lady of Peace and the Pope John XXIII Hall, containing eight oil paintings created by João de Sousa Araújo. An old high cross from the Sanctuary of Christ the King is also located in the hall. The Chapel of the Confidants of the Heart of Jesus displays valuable reliquaries of Saint Margaret Mary Alacoque, Saint John Eudes, Saint Faustina Kowalska and Blessed Mary of the Divine Heart Droste zu Vischering.

Exiting the pedestal, we made our way around the structure, admiring the statues of the apostles and other pieces of religious art on the premises, including stations of the cross. Here, it is also possible to admire the sweeping views of the city across the river and access to the grounds is free if unable to gain entry into the pedestal.

So, which statue did my Brazilian friend think was more impressive? Christ the Redeemer, of course! It is one of the symbols of her country and I wouldn’t expect her to choose anything but. If you ask me? It would be close, as I was impressed by both. Christ the Redeemer, however, having always been on my bucket list and located so high above the city, I think it ekes out the win!

If anyone is visiting Lisbon and looking for an afternoon of adventure, I would definitely recommend making the short journey to Cristo Rei…one of the city’s treasures!

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National Sanctuary of Christ the King

  • https://cristorei.pt/default.aspx?langid=2
  • Address: 2800-058 Almada, Portugal
  • Hours: Summer weekdays, 0930-1830, Summer weekends, 0930-1900, Winter, 0930-1830.
  • Admission: Adults, €6.00, Children, €3.00
  • Getting There: Take the commuter ferry from Cais do Sodre Station across the river to Cacilhas, from where there are buses (#101) outside the station that stop at the monument. Ferry ticket price, €1.30. Bus ticket, €1.50 purchased from driver.

In the Pink

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

The first time I ever visited Lisbon, I remember seeing the colorful tiles that decorated many buildings and walls in the city.

On this visit, I was seeing pink!

Walking from the Cais do Sodre ferry station, I happened to walk across an overpass and took a look down at the street below.

IT WAS PINK!

Yes, Pink Street is aptly named for its bright, Pepto-Bismol-like color. Known for the large number of bars located here, Pepto-Bismol is probably something that many people, who frequent the area, use after a night of hard partying and heavy eating!

Taking the stairway down to the colorful Rua Nova do Carvalho, I walked along, following the rose-colored pathway, wondering how crowded this place gets when the sun goes down.

Once Lisbon’s Red Light District, sporting sleazy bars and brothels, the street was given an overhaul in 2011 and the questionable businesses were shut down. Today, instead of sailors seeking sex, the area is the one that people choose when looking for drinks, food and dancing! A tamer version than what was there before.

What a transformation! It’s like someone added a drop of white to clean the area and instead of red, it lightened up the mood!

To Pink!

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The Pink Street

  • Address: R. Nova do Carvalho, 1200-372 Lisboa, Portugal
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Metro, Cais do Sodre station

One More Off the List

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There are more than 900 churches in Rome.

I intend to see them all.

Recently, while walking in the Pinciano quarter, near Villa Borghese, I happened upon the church of Santa Teresa d’Avila, an early 20th century minor basilica.

Finding the doors unlocked, I ventured in to see what this church was about.

Designed in the neo-Romanesque style, the church was constructed rather quickly, beginning in 1901, and completed only one year later. Made a parochial church by Pope Pius X in 1906, the church was entrusted to the Discalced Carmelite friars, who to this day, continue to serve the parish with their convent located next door. Forty-five years later, under the orders of Pope Pius XII, the church’s status was elevated to Minor Basilica.

The exterior of the building is constructed of red brick and is rather unremarkable except for the two-storied entrance facade with its four columns and elaborately carved relief depicting Christ Blessing St. Teresa. The main entrance is graced with a bronze door designed by Fra Serafino Melchiore and the reliefs depicts scenes from the life of St. Teresa.

Sufficient to say, I hoped the interior would differ from the exterior thinking back to many of the churches I had visited in the city. Sadly, I found the decor to be quite plain except for a few decorative additions. Designed in a Latin cross plan, there were eight side altars, dedicated to Carmelite saints and two altars flanking the sanctuary and a main altar. Adorned with works by 20th century Roman artists, there was a wheel window with stained glass showing Christ the Apostles over the entrance, 18th century wooden choir stalls hailing from Santa Maria in Campo Marzio and a 17th century bronze crucifix by Pietro Tacca. Behind a screen of carved limestone, there was also a choir which contained a life-sized statue of St. Teresa.

My time in the church of Santa Teresa d’Avila was short and although I was not overwhelmed by my visitation, I’m glad I decided to take a quick look.

One more church marked off the Rome list!

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Santa Teresa d’Avila Catholic Church

  • Address: Italia Street, 37 – 00198 Rome, Italy
  • Hours: Weekdays, 0700-1200, 1615-1915, Sundays, 0800-1300, 1615-1915
  • Admission: free
  • Mass schedule: Weekdays, 0730, 0830, 1830. Sundays, 0930, 1030, 1200 and 1830

Museum For the Arts

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Sometimes the best laid plans fall apart.

Even though I had intended to venture out to the Priscilla Catacombs in Rome, we had arrived late and sleep seemed a little more important when my alarm went off.

Knowing that Borghese Park was not far away, I peeked out between the curtains, noticed the sunshine and thought that it might be nice to take a walk in the park and a turn in the Borghese Gallery and Museum.

Who would have known that you needed an advance reservation?

Well, I guess if I had done some prior research…

A little defeated, I headed out of the park and took a quick glance at my Google maps. There was a museum listed a few blocks away.

Why not? I had nothing else to do and the catacombs were closing in a short while.

Walking the few blocks to the location of the Museo Ludovisi Boncompagni, I stood for a moment to enjoy its Roman baroque-style appearance from across the street.

Upon entering, I approached the front desk, saying hello to the two women who were standing there. Asked to sign the guest book, I then inquired about the entrance fee but was told that entrance to the museum was complimentary…quite the nice surprise!

Making my way through the ground floor of the villa which belonged to the Prince Andrea Boncompagni, it was a bit like stepping back in time, seeing how the upper elite of Rome lived at the time.

The villa, which fell into Prince Boncompagni’s widow’s possession upon his death was donated, per her request, to be used as a center for cultural activity for the Italian State. Though it took many years for her request to be fulfilled for the building’s use as a museum, it was finally in the early 90’s when the building was renovated to be used to exhibit the first Italian collection dedicated to the decorative arts.

Each room is decorated in the style of its former glory and brimming with objects of art and architectural ornamentation. Antique furniture and lighting, statues, busts and vases filled each room, wall paper and interesting paintings lined the walls, but one of the highlights of the museum is a beautiful bronze, silver and gold crib dating back to 1901, commissioned by the City of Rome and donated to the monarchs Elena and Vittorio Emanuele III for the birth of their first child Iolanda.

As beautiful as the interiors are, however, the highlight of the museum is the extensive haute couture collection from designers such as Pucci, Ferragamo, Fausto Sarli, Gattinoni, Sorelle Fontana, Valentino and Litrico, among others.

Amidst the opulent interiors of the villa, stand mannequins draped in the grand designer’s garments and cases filled with shoes, hats, purses, and jewelry.

I loved examining the exquisite couture pieces up close, coming from a time when everything was sewn, embroidered and beaded by hand. As a person who enjoys sewing, I was quite impressed and aware of how many hours were required to create these masterpieces. And…although the accessories were protected by glass cases, more than once I caught myself wishing that I could drape a purse across my arm or place one of the hats upon my head!

The museum spans two floors and took me not more than an hour to peruse. Although it was not my first choice of how to spend my afternoon in Rome, I was quite pleased that I had stumbled upon it due to my laziness.

As I always say, sometimes, the best things you find are the ones you weren’t looking for!

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Museo Ludovisi Boncompani Decorative Art Museum

Castle of the Holy Angel

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

On countless occasions, I have walked by the Castel Sant’Angelo…most times heading over the Ponte Sant’Angelo bridge to the Piazza Navona, the location of two of my favorite restaurants and my absolute fave gelato shop.

Having always admired it for its spherical silhouette and commanding position along the river, I am not sure why I had never ventured inside.

With the summer crowds beginning to thin, my mind filled with the opportunities this offered. Uncrowded streets, not many long lines. I wanted to experience something different, yet still get my daily dose of culture and that could mean any number of locations to visit.

Heading out with a friend, we had decided to have dinner at The Old Bear, near the Piazza Navona, after whatever adventure we decided upon.

Hmmm…just across the river was the Castle Sant’Angelo. I was in the mood for pumpkin lasagna and yes, a castle!

Intended for use as a mausoleum by Emperor Hadrian and his family, the construction of the Castle Sant’Angelo was begun in the year 135. Only requiring four years to complete, the building was then given over to the military, eventually being integrated into the Aurelian Walls, which enclosed the city of Rome including all seven of its hills, the Campus Martius and Trastevere.

As the plague ravaged the city, Pope Gregory I experienced a vision of Saint Michael the Archangel on the top of the castle announcing the end of the epidemic. As we stood on the Ponte Sant’Angelo, itself lined with amazing angelic statues, we gazed upon the fortress and at the statue of Saint Michael comparatively placed on the apex.

After paying our entrance fee, we made our way through the five floors which are reached by a spiral ramp that first reaches the chamber of ashes and eventually cells where many historical figures were imprisoned.

There are many medieval features of the castle from its time served as a fortress. The spiraling ramp provided rapid return to safety as well as a way for horseback riders to transit the space, a small wooden bridge that sits across the imperial tomb and a drawbridge. During the years of rebellion, four bastions were added to improve the fortification of the castle. These were the bastions of San Marco, San Luca, San Giovanni and San Matteo and as we made our way through these additions, we were able to witness the many wooden catapults, rusty cannons and marble cannon balls that were useful during the attacks the city continuously received. In addition, the Bastion of San Giovanni was home to a sixteenth century gunsmith workshop in the tower and in a reconstruction of the space, we were able to take note of the items used to construct the devices.

The castle was a maze of stairs, enclosed spaces and walkways most extremely well preserved due to its continual modifications over the centuries. Finding ourselves in the Courtyard of Honour which contains the papal apartments, used as a place of refuge by the pope when they were forced to flee the Vatican, we spied the stairs which led us to the second highest point on the castle…the one where we could stand beneath the great statue of Michael the Archangel. It is here, as well, that you can stand and admire the city, including the commanding St. Peter’s Basilica, the river below and all points past.

Courtyard of Honor
Courtyard of Honor
Courtyard of Honor

The loggias were my favorite parts of the castle. The smaller of the two was built at the beginning of the sixteenth century by Pope Julius II of Rovere (you can spot his name and coat of arms on the lintel), it was used as a place for the pope to bless the crowds of pilgrims on their way towards St. Peter’s Basilica. The Grand Loggia, completed in 1543, was completed by Pope Paul III (notable for commissioning the Last Judgement in the Sistine Chapel), and conceived as an entrance to his private apartments. It is decorated with episodes of Hadrian’s life and images of the monuments that he had built, including the mausoleum itself.

Stopping at the small cafe for a short time to escape the incessant drizzle that had started, we grabbed a beverage and enjoyed the warmth and smells of the pastries served here.

Spying a break in the weather, we decided to continue on, admiring the architectural details of the castle. Eventually, we came to something totally unexpected. Within the beautifully decorated rooms, named after Clement VII Medici, we happened upon an Italian fashion exhibit showcasing haute couture and jewelry by Italian designers, including Bulgari and Valentino. Beautifully dressed mannequins and display cases filled the apartments, including the Apollo Room, which if you were not overwhelmed by the fashion displayed here, you certainly were by the magnificent marble fireplace, frescoes, door friezes and tiled floors.

Sadly, the one thing that I was so anxious to visit within the castle was the Passetto di Borgo; the passageway built in 1277 that enabled a periously-threatened pope to make a safe getaway. In 1494, Pope Alexander VI transited this passage as Charles VIII invaded the city and Clement VII escaped using the passage during the Sack of Rome in 1527, when troops of the Holy Roman Emperor massacred almost the entire Swiss Guard on the steps of St. Peter’s Basilica. In 2000, in honor of the Pope’s Jubilee year, the Passetto di Borgo was renovated and temporarily re-opened. It can be visited during specific times with the accompaniment of a guide.

Heading out of the castle, we found the rain had ceased and the darkening sky was beginning to clear. Examining the castle from the ground perspective, we walked across the bridge stopping with the masses to get one last look.

Never before having realized that Michael the Archangel was the statue that sat upon the top of the castle, I glanced at the angel once again and had a feeling of peace.

Everyone always wants a guardian angel looking out over them!

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Castle Sant’Angelo

  • http://castelsantangelo.beniculturali.it/
  • Address: Lungotevere Castello, 50, 00193 Roma RM, Italy
  • Hours: Daily, 0900-1930. Closed January 1, May 1 and December 25.
  • Admission: €15.00, € 2.00 reduced. The entrance ticket also allows entry to the National Museum of the Palazzo di Venezia in the following eight days after purchase. From October to March, free entry on the first Sunday of each month. Guided tours included in the admission ticket. November to March, English, 1000 and 1500, Italian, 1130 and 1630. April to October, English 1000 and 1630, Italian, 1130 and 1800.
  • Getting There: Metro, Ottaviano. Buses numbers 23, 34, 49, 64, 87, 280, 492, 926 and 990.

Stumbling Upon a Statue

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What I love most about Rome is that there is always something different to discover around each corner…from statues to memorials, to major landmarks and archaeological sites…some more interesting than others, but all deserving some insight into their historical aspects.

While on a walk, I came across a statue on the backside of the Ministry of Economics and Finance. Curious about its origins, I decided to investigate.

This monument, dedicated to Quintino Sella, an Italian politician, economist and mountaineer, was erected in 1893, and was chosen after thirty-one sketches were presented for consideration to the city. Inaugurated on April 9, 1893, in the square in front of the Ministry of Finance, the monument was eventually moved on the side of Via Cernaia.

Born in the Province of Biella, Quintino Sella studied engineering in Turin and then mineralogy in Paris, witnessing the revolution of 1848. Returning to Turin in 1852, he worked as a professor of geometry, mathematics and then, eventually, mineralogy.

In 1860, he moved into politics, serving as a deputy for the city of Cossato, secretary-general of public instruction and then received the portfolio of finance from Rattazzi and later, La Marmora. His great political influence led to his heading of a Moderate Conservative cabinet at which he remained until retiring from public life.

Despite his busy educational and political aspirations, Sella spent a great deal of time pursuing his mountaineering interests. He was involved in the competition for the first ascent of the Matterhorn and founded the Club Alpino Italiano, with a number of its mountain huts named in his honor.

Passing away in 1884, Quintino Sella was buried at the graveyard near the Santuary of Oropa, where a pyramid was erected in his honor.

The monument that I observed at the Ministry of Finance, was designed by Ettore Ferrari and consists of a cross-shaped stepped base from which rises a pedestal on which the bronze statue of the statesman appears to be walking with his right hand on his chest and holding papers in his left. A female figure with a naked breast wrapped in a wide cloak, is seated beneath Sella’s representation. On the female’s left side is a bronze figure of a naked boy, symbolizing the Genius of Finance, holding a book with the word Finanze on it.

The statue was an interesting find and after discovering its history, I went in search of the plaque also dedicated to Quintino Sella on Via Nazionale.

It wasn’t the Coliseum or the Vatican…but I learned a bit about an important Italian, just by stumbling across a statue dedicated to him.

Lots more of that in Rome!!!

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Monumento a Quintino Sella