Museum For the Arts

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Sometimes the best laid plans fall apart.

Even though I had intended to venture out to the Priscilla Catacombs in Rome, we had arrived late and sleep seemed a little more important when my alarm went off.

Knowing that Borghese Park was not far away, I peeked out between the curtains, noticed the sunshine and thought that it might be nice to take a walk in the park and a turn in the Borghese Gallery and Museum.

Who would have known that you needed an advance reservation?

Well, I guess if I had done some prior research…

A little defeated, I headed out of the park and took a quick glance at my Google maps. There was a museum listed a few blocks away.

Why not? I had nothing else to do and the catacombs were closing in a short while.

Walking the few blocks to the location of the Museo Ludovisi Boncompagni, I stood for a moment to enjoy its Roman baroque-style appearance from across the street.

Upon entering, I approached the front desk, saying hello to the two women who were standing there. Asked to sign the guest book, I then inquired about the entrance fee but was told that entrance to the museum was complimentary…quite the nice surprise!

Making my way through the ground floor of the villa which belonged to the Prince Andrea Boncompagni, it was a bit like stepping back in time, seeing how the upper elite of Rome lived at the time.

The villa, which fell into Prince Boncompagni’s widow’s possession upon his death was donated, per her request, to be used as a center for cultural activity for the Italian State. Though it took many years for her request to be fulfilled for the building’s use as a museum, it was finally in the early 90’s when the building was renovated to be used to exhibit the first Italian collection dedicated to the decorative arts.

Each room is decorated in the style of its former glory and brimming with objects of art and architectural ornamentation. Antique furniture and lighting, statues, busts and vases filled each room, wall paper and interesting paintings lined the walls, but one of the highlights of the museum is a beautiful bronze, silver and gold crib dating back to 1901, commissioned by the City of Rome and donated to the monarchs Elena and Vittorio Emanuele III for the birth of their first child Iolanda.

As beautiful as the interiors are, however, the highlight of the museum is the extensive haute couture collection from designers such as Pucci, Ferragamo, Fausto Sarli, Gattinoni, Sorelle Fontana, Valentino and Litrico, among others.

Amidst the opulent interiors of the villa, stand mannequins draped in the grand designer’s garments and cases filled with shoes, hats, purses, and jewelry.

I loved examining the exquisite couture pieces up close, coming from a time when everything was sewn, embroidered and beaded by hand. As a person who enjoys sewing, I was quite impressed and aware of how many hours were required to create these masterpieces. And…although the accessories were protected by glass cases, more than once I caught myself wishing that I could drape a purse across my arm or place one of the hats upon my head!

The museum spans two floors and took me not more than an hour to peruse. Although it was not my first choice of how to spend my afternoon in Rome, I was quite pleased that I had stumbled upon it due to my laziness.

As I always say, sometimes, the best things you find are the ones you weren’t looking for!

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Museo Ludovisi Boncompani Decorative Art Museum

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