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During my last visit to Lisbon, I made the journey to the coastal area of Belém. With so many things to see and do there, I was disappointed to realize that there wasn’t sufficient time in my short afternoon to visit all of the landmarks. During this trip, we were fortunate to be there for the Festival of the Mask, which takes place on the grounds of the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos.
Staring at the beautiful building, I was mesmerized at its intricate facade and decided that this beautiful building would be first on the list of places to visit on my next trip.
One of the most decorative churches in Portugal, the monastery was built on the site of the church dedicated to Santa Maria de Belém on the harbor of Praia do Restelo. Monks of the military-religious Order of Christ resided here at the time and provided assistance to seafarers in transit.
In 1495, Manuel I inaugurated the construction of the existing structure and the Hieronymites order of monks were chosen to reside in the complex, remaining there for over four centuries. The building of the time was already in disrepair when Vasco da Gama and his men spent the night in prayer there before departing on their Orient expedition in 1497.
Construction of the monastery was initiated on January 6, 1501 and eventually took 100 years until its completion. As an overabundance of taxes were collected, architects’ plans grew until it reached the size, scale and style that you see today. The Manueline ornamentation in the cloisters incorporates maritime elements and objects discovered during naval expeditions, carved in limestone. The main chapel, the choir and the two stories of the monastery were completed in 1550, however thirty years later, construction was halted as funds were redirected to the Escorialin in Spain as Portugal and Spain united.
After various parts of the monastery was completed in the 1600s (new portal, cloister door, house of the doorkeepers, staircase and a hall that was the entrance to the upper choir), the monastery became the burial place for the royal pantheon.
Additional adornments were completed in the 1700s, including important paintings by artist Henrique Ferreira. After the earthquake of 1755, much of the artwork and treasures were transferred to the crown or lost and the structure was vacated.
During the late 1800s, restorations began on the property, including the cloisters. The annex and facade of the church were altered dramatically and are what you see today.
The Monastery of Jerónimos is one of the most visited landmarks in Lisbon and tourists should be aware of long waits to enter…I had no idea. Fortunately, as I took my place in line, I was informed by a passerby that I could enter the Archaeological Museum next door, purchase my ticket there and skip the line. Of course, I was a bit skeptical…if I left my place in line and what I was told was inaccurate, it would be back to the end of the line again. Thankfully, they were correct. I waited for ten minutes, purchased my ticket and walked past everyone who had been in front of me and was still waiting in the warm afternoon temperatures.
The monastery is truly magnificent, with its carvings of saints over its entryways and fine stone details…make sure to stop by the South Entrance which is truly magnificent. Once inside, the two level cloister is a sight to behold with pinnacles, gargoyles and other decorative features and long, architectural corridors.
The interior gardens offer a mixture of the Manuelino, European, Moorish and Eastern styles, symbols of the Portuguese empire and its power throughout the world. Certainly a place to take your time, admire the architecture and spend a bit of time in reflection on one of the many alcoves on the upper level. Pay particular attention to all of the different carvings on each of the columns…faces, rosettes, dates.
You will also encounter some of the remains of important figures in Portuguese history, including presidents Teófilo Braga and Oscar Carmona, playwright, Almeida Garrett and modern poet Fernando Pessoa.
The Church of Santa Maria de Belém, in the monastery, does not need a ticket to enter and is truly the highlight of the monastery. Access to the upper level choir loft is from the monastery, so be sure not to miss it. Take in the view of the church from above before heading downstairs. Of particular interest is the crucifix, the beautiful paintings and the carved choir seating all bathed in the subtle light streaming in from the rose window.
As I entered the church’s lower lever, my senses were truly overloaded as I was not sure where to set my gaze. Entering from the side portal, I first encountered the tombs of Vasco da Gama and Luís de Camões which are located in the lower choir. These magnificent tombs, designed by sculptor Costa Mota can be admired from all angles and both offer extreme detail. The baptismal chapel is also located near the side doors as well as the exquisite Altar Dourado. Along the north wall are beautiful confessionals and large stained glass windows decorate the space, allowing alluring filtered light to enter.
As I walked around the church and marveled at the amazing details that decorated every niche, every column and every arch, I encountered the remains of Cardinal-King Dom Henrique and the children of Manuel I as well as the tomb of King Sebastião and the descendants of King João III.
Make sure to walk near the altar for a closer look at the beautifully painted walls and golden tabernacle. The golden organ is also located at the front of the church.
Overall, my visited lasted just over an hour and I was touched by the artistry and grandeur of this amazing place.
When visiting Lisbon, make sure to head over to Belem to experience some of the most beautiful architecture in the city. Worth any amount of time you may have to spend in line, Jerónimos Monastery is a masterpiece!
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Monsteiro dos Jerónimos
- http://www.mosteirojeronimos.gov.pt/pt/index.php
- Address: Praça do Império 1400-206 Lisboa, Portugal
- Hours: October to April, 1000-1730, May to September, 1000-1830. Closed Mondays, January 1, Easter Sunday, May 1, June 13 and 25 December.
- Admission: Individuals, 10€. Combination ticket, Monastery and National Archaeological Museum, 12€. 50% discount for 65 years and older. Family ticket, 50% discount for 2 adults, 2 children, ages 0-18.
- Getting There: #15 Tram from the city center runs to Belem
- Additional Information: Gift shop located within the monastery as well as an exhibit on the history and construction of the monastery.
As I entered the fortress-like facade, with its two large clock towers and massive solid walls, I ran my hand over the large wooden doors passing through into the interior. The first thing I noticed, however, was how dark the cathedral appeared. Though the second story of the ambulatory has a series of windows and the narrow windows of the lateral aisles allow light to enter, the church appeared to be much more gloomy than others I have visited.
Dodging other visitors, we made our way toward the front of the church admiring the rose window in the West facade and the interesting barrel vaulting of the nave.
Especially interesting were the chapels, one especially enclosed by a Romanesque gate. Others include a funerary chapel, near the entrance of the cathedral, built by wealthy merchant Bartolomeu Joanes in the 14th century which still contains his tomb with his laying figure inside.
At the end of the 13th century, King Dinis of Portugal ordered the construction of a Gothic-style cloister. The cloister was damaged, along with many chapels and the royal pantheon during the earthquake of 1755. Since renovated, the cloisters can be visited today, however, when we visited, it was Sunday and they had not yet opened for the afternoon. I was truly disappointed as I understand, the tile work is simply amazing and it offers some of the most beautiful architecture in the city. Additionally, we were not able to visit the Treasury as it is also closed on Sunday.
Over the years, many renovations have been completed, including the addition of a new altar, movement of the bishop’s chair, the addition of a separate chapel for the Blessed Sacrament and a more ample baptismal font. Though the baptismal font was dry, I was able to visit the new chapel in which the casket of the Lawrence Scanlan, was placed, as per his request. On top of the casket is a reliquary containing a small piece of Saint Mary Madeline making the Cathedral one of only two in the world to contain a first class relic of the saint that the Cathedral is named for.
Masses are said in both English and Spanish many times a week and it is my understanding that tickets for the choral concerts are a hot commodity. The Cathedral, home to the only co-educational Catholic Choir School in the United States (established in 1996), has over 350 students from Pre-Kindergarten through Eighth Grade. Performing over 9,000 hours every year in the Cathedral as well as concert series, the choristers take part in tours throughout the world in addition, to singing regularly with local arts organizations, including the Utah Symphony and The Morman Tabernacle Choir.
Years ago, I visited Parque Güell and wandered around for hours without paying to enter. Perusing the website, I noticed that admission was now being charged, seemingly to limit the large number of visitors to the park at one time. Purchasing a timed admission, I jumped on the bus and headed toward the park.
Quickly making my way to the Monumental Zone area, I was able to enter on the terrace level, however, due to construction, the famous mosaic bench was partially closed. Still, elbowing my way through the crowded area, I was able to sit for a few minutes and enjoy the beautiful architectural element. The stairway with the Gaudí dragon fountain was also filled with visitors, each hoping to capture a picture with the iconic piece of sculpture. The two buildings flanking the entrance, each with unusual pinnacles and fantastically shaped roofs give the impression of gingerbread houses and one offers a permanent exhibition of the Barcelona City History Museum which focuses on the building itself, the park and the city.
Parque Güell is truly a place of tranquility, yet, fascination. As you walk through the lush gardens, you can almost imagine yourself to be in a fantastical dream. Take your time to enjoy each area of the park and if you see one of the many musical performers that spend time entertaining visitors, stop and relish in their music. The acoustics in some of the spaces are amazing! Also, don’t forget to make your way to the park’s highest point, marked with a large cross, for a phenomenal view of the city with both the Sagrada Familia and the Montjuic area visible in the distance. Lastly, make sure to keep your eyes open for the amazing wildlife that makes the park their home. Scour the trees for a variety of birds, most notably, non-native parrots and short-toed eagles, that reside in the area.
The Zappeion’s construction was started in 1874 and designed by Danish architect Theophil Hansen. Opened on October 20, 1888, it’s main purpose was to serve as building for the Olympic games, first acting as a venue for the fencing competitions, during the 1896 Summer Olympics. Later, the building was used as the Olympic Village (1906) and then served as the first host for the organizing committee (ATHOC) for the 2004 Olympic Games from 1998 to 1999. It also served as the press center during the 2004 games.
Just outside the Zappeion, be sure to look for the statue of Evangelos Zappas. Buried underneath this statue is his head. There are approximately 70 other statues and works of art in the gardens immediately surrounding the Zappeion, including statues of Lord Byron and the Zappas cousins, who funded the construction of the building.
After walking around the building and through its own park, I finally entered the Athen’s National Garden, a peaceful oasis within the hustle and bustle of the ancient city.
While exploring the gardens near the Vasilissis Sophias Avenue entrance make sure to look for the remains of the Roman floor. Uncovered during nineteenth century excavations at a depth of one meter, the well-preserved floor belonged to a the courtyard of a Roman villa.
Other attractions within the gardens are a conservatory, where plants are cultivated before being planted in the garden, a children’s library and a small cafe where you can grab a drink or snack and refresh in the green surroundings. The entrance is located on Irodou Attikou Street. There is also a library containing two reading rooms, a fairy tale room, a music room and a film room. The library’s collections boasts 6,000 publications.
An important landmark in Athens, take a short walk from the central square and check it out while enroute to the other attractions in the area…the Temple of Zeus, the National Gardens and the Panathenaic Stadium.
The construction of this temple was begun in the 6th century by Pisistratus, the son of Hippocrates, also known as the Tyrant of Athens, who desired to pay tribute to the Olympian Zeus (originating from his position as head of the Olympian gods). Due to a lack of funding and the disestablishment of his son in 510 BC, construction ceased. Other attempts were made to finish the temple, by the Macedonians and Anthiochus, however, there was no completion until the Emperor Hadrian made the effort seven hundred years later.
Though the site is not extensive, take some time to enjoy the ruins and make sure not to miss the archaeological site on the edge of the property, highlighting some ancient structures uncovered there. Not one of the sites that most people aspire to visit, you can often find it uncrowded and enjoyable and you are able to obtain nice photos, especially in the afternoon when the sun hits the columns, almost making them glow against the perpetually cerulean sky. You can also combine your visit with a quick stop to Hadrian’s Arch located just outside the gates of the temple.
Our first stop, the beautiful Torre de Belém. Sitting in the middle of the water, on a small island, it is accessible by bridge. Built in the 16th century, this fortified tower was once a part of the defense system at the mouth of the Tagus river and a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was commissioned by King John II and is composed of a bastion and a four story tower built in the Portuguese Manueline style.
As I took picture after picture, I realized that this beautiful structure reminded me of a sandcastle still standing even after the tide has surrounded it. Though I would have liked to tour the tower, it was getting late, there was a line and my travel partners were not interested in waiting. Reluctantly, I walked away to discover the other monuments in the area, knowing that I would have to make this a priority when I returned.
The next monument along the shore was the Monumento aos Combatentes do Ultramar. Similar to the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Washington, D.C., this monument pays tribute to those who fought in the Portuguese War in Africa, from 1961-1974. Both striking and somber, the monument, designed by artists Carlos Guerrero and Batista Barros, is comprised of three distinctive sections…the flame, the monument and the memorial wall. While the flame burns eternally, you can take note of over 9,000 names of the fallen inscribed alphabetically and by year on the marble wall behind it. Standing in the shallow pool, are two large angled pillars jutting out above the flame.
A small chapel is located inside in the monument and there is a museum adjacent which focuses on Portuguese Overseas Wars, the modern Portuguese military and World War I objects. There is also a tomb of an unknown soldier from this war, brought from Guinea-Bissau.
The monument, erected in 1960, celebrates the Portuguese Age of Discovery during the 15th and 16th centuries when Porgual dominated the sea trade between the continents. Observing a design originally conceived by Jose Angelo Cottineli Telmo and then Antonio Pardal Monteiro, the structure was adorned with thirty-four sculptures by Leopoldo de Almeida, including Vasco de Gama and Ferdinand Magellan. The main statue of Henry the Navigator, as well as the others, represent those who have contributed to Portugal’s reputation in the age of discoveries; poets, explorers, navigators, crusaders and mapmakers.
Though we did not enter the structure, we were informed that it is divided into three levels. The ground floor covers the history of Lisbon, the second has two exhibition halls and four other rooms on the third floor. The top of the monument is accessible and used as a watchtower.
The festival’s main idea is to bring together the entire peninsula and increase the awareness of its unique culture and traditions, especially with the incorporation of the pagan masks which are common in the Spanish and Portuguese cultures. Besides the regional groups participating, this year’s parade included Boi Tinga from Brazil and The Mummers from Ireland.
After the parade was over, we followed the crowds into Jardim de Belém discovering dozens of stands showcasing local products such as wine, cheese, chocolates and handicrafts. Grabbing a beer and a delicious prosciutto and cheese sandwich, we acquired seats at a picnic table and enjoyed our dinner in the late afternoon sunshine while local performers entertained us on the nearby stage.
You will also notice many tuk tuks throughout the city. A common and cheap mode of transportation in Asia, the tuk tuk was introduced to Portugal a few years ago. Popular with tourists, for their availability and for their ease of travel through the narrow streets, you can find them outside of most attractions. Beware, however…the price you pay in Asia is not what you pay in Lisbon.
Enjoy the view. There are many overlooks throughout the city. For the most breathtaking views, head over to the Elevador de Santa Justa, an historic attraction that connects the lower streets of the Baixa with the higher Largo do Carmo. Built in the 19th century and the only remaining vertical lift, it provides an invaluable service by eliminating the steep climb up Carmo Hill.
Miradouro da Graça is situated on the hill of Santo André and overlooks many old neighborhoods like Mouraria, Alfama, the downtown area, Castelo Saõ Jorge, the river and 25th April Bridge. Here, you can enjoy a drink in the esplanade facing Lisbon’s roofs and try to identify the many monuments and landmarks below. If Tram 28 is too crowded, catch bus 712 (Marquês de Pombal) or 726 and disembark at Sapadores for a short walk.
Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara provides views over to the castle and a little market offering nice souvenirs and food and beer stalls. It is easy to access on foot from Bairro Alto or from Rossio below via the Ascensor da Gloria.
Have a treasure hunt. So, not really in the sense you may be thinking. Portuguese tiles, or azulegos, were introduced during Moorish times and adorn dozens of buildings throughout the city. Be on the lookout for these vibrant decorations, especially in the neighborhoods of Alfama, Chiado and Cais do Sodré. If you don’t feel like seeking these tiles out on your own and would like to inspect them at a closer distance, head out to the Museu Nacional Do Azulejo which is filled with tiles of all colors and sizes, some dating back to the 15th century. If discovering how these tiles are made is what you are after, you can also learn about the process here. If money is no object, you can book at stay at the 
With so much to do in this Portuguese capitol, there’s probably not enough time to tackle them all. So, you may have to return…so then you can say,
A restaurant is located here on the promenade and wine vendors offer Portuguese samplings to quench your thirst in the hot, sunny afternoons.
Making our way into the interior of the structure, we marveled at the towering walls and walked along the ramparts admiring both the views and the wind whipping the country’s flags.
Ruins of older structures and a cistern were visible in the courtyard as well as a small door on the northern wall called the Door of Treason which allowed secret messengers to enter or exit as needed. Take a moment to have a seat in one of the garden areas and admire the many pieces of sculptures that adorn the premises. The gardens of Castelo de St. Jorge is a place to be cherished as it is one of the only remaining green spaces in Lisbon where native species of the Portuguese forest hold court. Here, visitors can observe trees such as cork oaks, carobs, strawberry, umbrella pines and various fruit trees.
While there are other, more beautiful and more preserved castles throughout the country, Castelo de St. Jorge is easy to reach and is rich in history. More importantly, with its prominent location high above the city, it is the perfect place to start your exploration of the Portuguese capital.