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Don’t you love it when you find something special without even trying?
Recently, while in Rome, I was out for a walk headed toward nowhere in particular. Enjoying a gelato, the sunshine and my leisurely stroll, I was paying attention to the intricate and elegant architecture of the area.
Walking along the Via del Quirinale, I noticed a church on my left. Noticing people entering, I decided to take a look inside.
The Church of Sant’ Andrea al Quirinal is a Roman Catholic church built for the Jesuit seminary on the Quirinal Hill. Commissioned in 1658, the church was constructed in 1661 and designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, who considered it one of his most perfect works.
And perfect it was!
A rotunda-type oval church, with the high altar placed on the short axis, makes it much closer to the entrance than most churches and the first thing I set my eyes upon. Drawn in due to the placement, my gaze was transfixed on the red marble columns flanking the incredible, breathtaking altar and the painting of The Martyrdom of Saint Andrew by Guillaume Courtois, topped with three-dimensional golden cherubs and a marble figure of Saint Andrew resting on the pediment high above the altar, arm outstretched and gazing upward.
Finally, tearing myself away, I began to inspect each of the chapels, moving to the right of the altar. The Chapel of St. Francis Xavier, showcases three canvases by Baciccio depicting the Baptism, Preaching and Death of St. Francis Xavier. Gazing upward, the ceiling presents a painting of The Glory of St. Francis Xavier by Filippo Bracci.
The Chapel of the Passion, has three canvases with scenes from the Passion of Jesus Christ by Giacinto Brandi and the chapel to the left of the altar, The Chapel of Saint Stanislaus Kostka, houses the shrine of the saint, a bronze and lapis lazuli urn and a painting of the Madonna With Child and Saint Stanislaus Kostka. Make sure to check out the ceiling fresco by Govanni Odazzi.
Another chapel is dedicated to Saint Ignatius of Loyola and showcases paintings by Ludovico Mazzanti of the Madonna and Child and Saints and Adoration of Kings and Shepherds. Another magnificent ceiling painting, Glory of the Angels, commanded my attention here also.
The final altar, located between the Chapel of Saint Stanislaus Kostka caught my eye with the large crucifix. In this chapel, I discovered the tomb of King Charles Emmanuel IV of Sardinia and Piedmont, who abdicated in 1815 to enter the Society of Jesus and lived in the Jesuit novitiate, adjacent to the church, until his death in 1819.
Many other intricately carved statues grace the pediments above the chapels and the domed ceiling is centered with an oculus allowing the church to be lighted naturally. Bringing my attention to the floor, I was entranced by the amazing inlaid mosaics which mirrors the elliptical dome overhead. Bernini did not want large funerary monuments within the church to ruin the architectural lines, so the mosaics mark the grave of those such as Cardinal Giambattista Spinola.
As I was moving through the church, I noticed a sign near a doorway. As if there wasn’t enough to captivate my attention, I discovered that for a small fee, I could visit the Rooms of Saint Stanislaus Kostka in the Jesuit novitiate, attached to the church, as well as the sacristy, which has been described as the most beautiful in the city. Not seeing many people heading that way, I decided that my curiosity needed to be satisfied.
Paying the sacristan on duty, I was then directed me up a stairway. Entering a small room, I discovered paintings and information about Saint Stanislaus Kostka. As I walked into the rooms that the saint spent his final years, what caught my eye…and actually, caught me a bit off guard…was a life-size marble statue depicting the dying saint, designed by Pierre Legros. Portrayed at the age of 18, the saint rests on a marble bed and holds in one hand, a small framed image of the Virgin Mary and a real rosary in the other. Surrounded by paintings from his life, the Baroque decor is even more engaging, painted deep red and trimmed in an abundance of gold.
Relics belonging to the saint are displayed in a case the left and two altars fill the wall spaces. The rooms were so mesmerizing and yet so intimate, not something you get to experience in the normal course of a church visit.
After my descent to the bottom level, I was greeted once again by the sacristan, who then led me into the sacristy and turned on the interior lights. As my eyes adjusted, I thought, “Indeed, this could be one of the most beautiful in Rome.” The dark wood altarpiece displays a painting, Immaculate Conception, by Andrea Pozzo, but the ceiling is the magnificent that I have ever seen. The multi-dimensional fresco depicts the Apotheosis of St. Andrew by Govanni de Brosso and is worthy of more than a few minutes of anyone’s time. Take a seat and stay awhile!
Finally, as my visit was drawing to a close, I took one more round in the church and then stepped outside to take a better look at the exterior. A simple beauty, marked by a semicircular porch with two Ionic columns invites visitors in to its exaggerated beauty on the inside.
As I stood contemplating what I had just witnessed, a couple walked up near me and read about the church from a guide book they were carrying. Seeming a bit hesitant about whether or not to take the time to enter, I encouraged them to do so. To not enter and miss one of Rome’s treasures would be just as a Jesuit devotee dying at the young age of 18.
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Sant’Andrea al Quirinale
- Address: Via del Quirinale 29.
- Hours: Monday-Friday 0830-1200, 1500-1900. Saturday and Sunday 0900-1200, 1530-1900.
- Admission: free. €2.00 for entrance to Chapel of St. Stanislov and sacristy.
- Getting There: From the Fontane del Tritone near the Barberini Metro station, walk up Via delle Qattro Fontane. Turn right at Via del Quirinale; pass the church San Carlo alle Quatro Fontane (built by Bernini’s rival, Borromini). Pass the park and Sant’Andrea is on the left at the end of the gardens.
Massive crowds fill the interior every day seeking to inspect this architectural phenomenon. Though classified as a temple, it is unknown how worship was conducted here as it is quite different from many other ancient Roman temples. Today, though, many take a seat near the altar, head bowed in prayer and contemplation…appropriate as its inception as a church when Byzantine emperor Phocas bequeathed it to Pope Boniface IV in AD 608.
Interspersed between the bays are the tombs of many famous figures from Italian history…painters Raphael and Annibale Carracci, composer, Arcangelo Corelli and architect Baldassare Peruzzi as well as the Italian kings, Vittorio Emanuele II and Umberto I. There are also many paintings that adorn the walls, the best known being the Annunication by Melozzo da Forli.
After my visit was complete, I stepped out into the piazza to take a better look at the fabulous temple from afar. The crowds were probably as thick here as they were inside, however, I was able to step up onto the raised platform that surrounded the amazing fountain that holds court in the center of the square.
If you are on your way to the Piazza Navona, or just in the area, step inside to see this incredible architectural gem and then have a seat around the beautiful fountain. Grab a gelato or a drink and relax for a while.
Entering the complex near the Arch of Titus, we discovered many paths throughout to survey the area in its entirety, encompassing the two basilicas, Fulvia Aemilia, a 100 meter public hall with a two-story porticoed facade dating back to 179 BC and Basilica Julia, built by Julius Caesar on the site of Basilica Sempronia in 54 BC. The Tempio di Antonino e Faustina, erected in AD 141 and transformed into a church in the 8th century (Chiesa di San Lorenzo in Miranda) and the Temple of Romulus are two of the most intact buildings on the premises. Near the Temple of Romulus, you will find the Basilica of Maxentius, the largest building on the forum, originally measuring 100 meters by 65 meters.
Also on the Via Sacra, we discovered the Casa delle Vestali, the home of the virgins who tended the sacred flame in the Tempio di Vesta. These priestesses, aged between six and ten years, were selected from aristocratic families to serve in the temple for thirty years. So great was the responsibility of keeping both the flame and their virginity intact that the penalty of flogging and/or death was imposed for those who did not adhere to the orders. The statues which honor these virgins line the Via Sacra and though most are in good condition, a many are missing their heads.
At the end of the Via Sacra, we came upon the Arco di Settimio Severo, a 23 meter high structure, built in AD 203 and dedicated to the emperor and his two sons, Caracalla and Geta. The arch commemorated the Roman victory over the Parthians.
The remains of the Rostri could be seen in front of the arch. This elaborate podium was the site of Mark Antony’s famous, “Friends, Romans and countrymen…” speech. Facing the Rostri is the Colonna di Foca (Column of Phocus) which fronts what once was the Forum’s main square.
Palatine Hill is connected to the Forum and at the center of the seven hills of Rome. Standing above the Forum, it was once the place where Imperial palaces were built. Heading uphill, we made our way through the grounds.
The Houses of Augustus and Livia, are still standing and in good condition and house some impressive art and frescoes. Tours of both of these impressive structures are available, however, advance tickets were required and we were not in possession. If you can secure them ahead of time, it is worth the effort in order to check out Augustus’ private study.
The Palatine Museum is also open to the public and contains a display of Roman statuary and findings from the hippodrome, however, being the end of our day, we decided that this would have to wait until another visit.
Having been to this architectural phenomenon at least five or six times, I never tire of seeing its structural prowess which has withstood the elements for so many years. I enjoy meandering through the passageways and gazing out on the arena which was the site of much action in its early years.
The Colosseum is the largest amphitheater in the world, measuring 186 meters long, 156 meters wide and 50 meters high!
There were three stories, each containing columns of a different style. The bottom columns were from the simple Doric order, the center, Ionic and the top, Corinthian. 
The emperor’s enjoyed the entertainment so much that they not only organized the events but also paid for them, allowing for the free entry of those desiring to attend. By also providing food, they ensured their popularity and support.
Emperor Vespasian’s son, Titus, was the first to hold games to commemorate the completion of the Colosseum. These games continued for 100 days. Gladiatorial games continued until the fifth century and animal hunts until the sixth.
Those with weak constitutions were not encouraged to attend as many events were quite brutal. During certain games held by the emperors, around 10,000 animals were killed in a single day.
A large number of rooms and underground passages were located beneath the Colosseum. Here, gladiators and animals waited to meet their fate. There were also thirty-six trap doors which could be used for special effects. 
Restoration efforts began in the 1990s and can still be seen continuing today. Funding from the admittance of thousands of visitors each year allow for the preservation of this mighty monument.
There is a ticket booth within the Colosseum, however, you can avoid waiting in line twice, once for the ticket purchase and once for entry. A new ticket office has been opened across from the Colosseum and alongside the entrance to the Roman Forum. After purchasing ticket, make sure to enter the line for entrance at the Colosseum. Tickets can also be purchased online and and by telephone.
As we were dropped off at the Plaza de la Independencia, where the country’s independence from Spain and Columbia was celebrated, I glanced around at the fine architectural details present on most of the buildings. The Casco Viejo (Spanish for Old Town) is filled with peaceful, shady plazas, wrought iron balconies, aged, brightly colored doorways and a myriad of churches.
After inspecting the dignified busts of Panama’s founding fathers, scattered throughout the square, we glanced around, not sure how to tackle the many narrow streets and plazas beckoning to my touristic nature. Heading toward the waterfront, we occasionally stopped to peruse the many souvenir shops filled with masks, pareos, outdated Panama license plates and of course, Panama hats.
The waterfront promenade offered some amazing views of the city’s impressive skyline as well as of the Cinta Costera, the viaduct that encircles the historic and governmental district of Casco Viejo, a controversial project which was built to solve the traffic nightmares without disturbing the historic neighborhood.
Grabbing a snow-cone from one of the local vendors, we sat on a park bench and savored the balmy temperatures while enjoying our chilly treat.
While my main desire was to visit La Catedral Metropolitana, the main, Catholic temple in Panama City, we found it to be under a massive renovation. The San Francisco de Asis Church was only a couple of blocks away and we decided to step in. One of the original structures from Casco Viejo, the church was nearly destroyed by fire in 1737 and 1756. Restored in 1998, it was more modern than I anticipated but presented vibrant stained glass, marble throughout and a beautiful, mosaic behind the altar.
Many restaurants and bars grace the streets in the Old Town and finding a tasty place to eat is not hard to do. In fact, nighttime, is a festive affair and should not be missed when visiting the city, even if not staying in one of the area’s many hotels and hostels.
Finally, we made our way back to Plaza de la Independencia. Taking a seat on one of the many shady, seating areas, we rested our weary feet, admiring the scenes around us. Besides the other camera touting tourists, the square attracts a large number of locals who come to interact with each other and children who use the tranquil area to play.
As concerned as I was about the cows (I was warned that they tend to jump in front of cars! Hmm…yes, that was what I was told…), I was far more interested in the amazing scenic overlooks every few miles and the beautiful hydrangeas that lined the roadways.
Continuing onward, we soon found ourselves at the Miradouro da Vista do Rei, an overlook with views of Sete Cidades, the three mile wide caldera and its green and blue-hued lakes. According to legend, these lakes were formed from the tears of a shepherd and a princess who shared a forbidden love.
There is a parking area at the fork in the road with many trails leading into the crater. There is also an intriguing abandoned hotel located here which reminded me of a setting from a horror movie. Though it is now enclosed by a wall to keep intruders out, the wall is not high enough if you are really determined to see the rotting remains up close.
Continuing our journey, we soon found ourselves in Mosteiros, a seaside town on the northwest coast of San Miguel. Looking more like a Hawaiian postcard, this area boasts cliffs, rock formations, a black sand beach and blue water and is a great place to relax for a while. The waters are quite rough and more conducive to surfing than swimming but lifeguards were there to kee watch.
Rounding the northwest corner of the island, we drove through Bretanha, Remédios, Santa Bárbara, Santo António and Capelas, stopping to admire each overlook and the occasional church.
After a quick lunch in Ribeira Grande, we headed south. Our destination was Lagoa de Fogo, yet, we somehow ended up in Furnas. Furnas was on our itinerary for the next day, but we decided to alter our plans and take a look around a bit early.
Upon Canto’s death, he was laid to rest here beside his wife.
The chapel can be viewed from the path alongside the lake but you can also pay 3 euro to enter the José do Canto Forest Garden where you can inspect the chapel up close. The garden has nice trails, one of which leads to a high, narrow waterfall and many of the trees from around the world are labeled and includes a giant sequoia.
Upon your entry from the parking lot, make sure to pay attention to the Garden of Lagoa das Furnas on your left for the figures carved into the trees…it is also a great spot to have a picnic.
After paying my admission, I donned my audio guide earphones and entered the the first stop on the tour, the Sermon church.
The chancel takes center stage and my eye was initially drawn to it as it sits high above the congregation and is surrounded by glass paintings representing the Nativity, the Crucifixion and the Resurrection. The altar, made of white marble and onyx presides before the gilded Apostles’ Screen designed by Friedrich Schinkel. The beautifully carved pulpit to the left of the chancel is also particularly noteworthy.
Turning to the left side of the church, the great Sauer organ was galvanizing with its massive size and artistry. Installed during the building’s construction, it is the largest preserved organ in its original state and is considered to be the largest in Germany with 7269 pipes and 113 registers.
Venturing outside of the Sermon church’s main area, I took notice of the crypts located under the organ gallery. Though there are many others within the cathedral, these are the burial sites of Kurfürster Friedrich Wilhelm, Elector of Brandenburg, his wife Kurfürstin Dorothea, German Emperor, Friedrich III and Kurfürster Johann Cicero, Elector of Brandenburg.
Opposite the organ gallery, I ventured into the Baptismal and Matrimonial Church. The entrance, flanked by ornate sarcophagi and created by sculptor Andreas Schlüter, led to a barrel vaulted church. This more intimate space, was adorned by an altarpiece, The Outpouring Of The Holy Spirit, considered to be one of the most significant pieces of artwork in the cathedral and an organ built by the Potsdam company Alexander Schuke, the first to be built after the Second World War.
Heading upward on the Imperial Staircase, I walked slowly, inspecting the multicolored marble and the stone from the Lahn region used in construction as well as the unique candelabra and ceiling crowns. Adorning the ceilings and wall spaces are paintings displaying stories from the life of Jesus Christ and parables. Take note of the “Nazareth” painting hanging opposite the staircase. The original, by Albert Hertel, was lost during the war, however, this reconstruction was painted by Brandenburg restorer and painter Ekkehard Koch.
On the upper level, there is a museum which offers an architectural history on the cathedral with large scale models of wood and plaster. Many of these show some of the original designs by Friedrich Stüler, which were never realized.
Heading higher…270 steps…I was able to lay my eyes on some of the best views of Berlin from the dome. Fascinating statues lined the wide balustrade and I could see famous landmarks such as City Hall, the Humboldt Forum, Museum Island and the television tower.
My final stop was on the lower level of the cathedral, which is the burial place of the Hohenzollern dynasty who ruled Prussian since the Middle Ages and the German Empire from 1871 until 1918. Though the most important kings and emperors are buried near their favorite castles in Berlin, the immense space is lined with beautifully carved tombs and statues from the influential family.
My visit completed, I made my way from the cathedral back into Lustgarten Park. Facing the building, I stopped and gazed up at the domes, my eyes drawn to the spot where I had stood just before. Equally impressive from the outside and the inside, the Berliner Dom is one of the most stunning churches I have visited. An amazing place of history and architecture, it ranks high on the lists of attractions in the once divided city. It now acts as a place which brings people together…a place of worship and a place of tourism.
One of the most decorative churches in Portugal, the monastery was built on the site of the church dedicated to Santa Maria de Belém on the harbor of Praia do Restelo. Monks of the military-religious Order of Christ resided here at the time and provided assistance to seafarers in transit.
The Monastery of Jerónimos is one of the most visited landmarks in Lisbon and tourists should be aware of long waits to enter…I had no idea. Fortunately, as I took my place in line, I was informed by a passerby that I could enter the Archaeological Museum next door, purchase my ticket there and skip the line. Of course, I was a bit skeptical…if I left my place in line and what I was told was inaccurate, it would be back to the end of the line again. Thankfully, they were correct. I waited for ten minutes, purchased my ticket and walked past everyone who had been in front of me and was still waiting in the warm afternoon temperatures.
You will also encounter some of the remains of important figures in Portuguese history, including presidents Teófilo Braga and Oscar Carmona, playwright, Almeida Garrett and modern poet Fernando Pessoa.
The Church of Santa Maria de Belém, in the monastery, does not need a ticket to enter and is truly the highlight of the monastery. Access to the upper level choir loft is from the monastery, so be sure not to miss it. Take in the view of the church from above before heading downstairs. Of particular interest is the crucifix, the beautiful paintings and the carved choir seating all bathed in the subtle light streaming in from the rose window.
As I entered the church’s lower lever, my senses were truly overloaded as I was not sure where to set my gaze. Entering from the side portal, I first encountered the tombs of Vasco da Gama and Luís de Camões which are located in the lower choir. These magnificent tombs, designed by sculptor Costa Mota can be admired from all angles and both offer extreme detail. The baptismal chapel is also located near the side doors as well as the exquisite Altar Dourado. Along the north wall are beautiful confessionals and large stained glass windows decorate the space, allowing alluring filtered light to enter.
As I walked around the church and marveled at the amazing details that decorated every niche, every column and every arch, I encountered the remains of Cardinal-King Dom Henrique and the children of Manuel I as well as the tomb of King Sebastião and the descendants of King João III.
Overall, my visited lasted just over an hour and I was touched by the artistry and grandeur of this amazing place.
As I entered the fortress-like facade, with its two large clock towers and massive solid walls, I ran my hand over the large wooden doors passing through into the interior. The first thing I noticed, however, was how dark the cathedral appeared. Though the second story of the ambulatory has a series of windows and the narrow windows of the lateral aisles allow light to enter, the church appeared to be much more gloomy than others I have visited.
Dodging other visitors, we made our way toward the front of the church admiring the rose window in the West facade and the interesting barrel vaulting of the nave.
Especially interesting were the chapels, one especially enclosed by a Romanesque gate. Others include a funerary chapel, near the entrance of the cathedral, built by wealthy merchant Bartolomeu Joanes in the 14th century which still contains his tomb with his laying figure inside.
At the end of the 13th century, King Dinis of Portugal ordered the construction of a Gothic-style cloister. The cloister was damaged, along with many chapels and the royal pantheon during the earthquake of 1755. Since renovated, the cloisters can be visited today, however, when we visited, it was Sunday and they had not yet opened for the afternoon. I was truly disappointed as I understand, the tile work is simply amazing and it offers some of the most beautiful architecture in the city. Additionally, we were not able to visit the Treasury as it is also closed on Sunday.
