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The area near the Piazza Navona is one of my favorite places to visit when in Rome, for the activity, the food, the artists and the gelato.
But…I am not going to tell you about the Piazza Navona.
I’m going to tell you about a building that I pass every time I head there.
The Pantheon.
There are many churches in Rome. I have been to too many to count, however, one of the best preserved buildings in Rome is a church originally constructed as a temple dedicated to all the gods of pagan Rome. Dating back to between AD 118 and 125, the Pantheon was built after an original edition was destroyed by fire. As ancient as it is, this prodigious building has been in use since its construction.
Having visited many times before, I still like to take a look inside every now and then. Approaching the beautiful facade on my most recent trip, I am still mesmerized by the massive columns that line the portico. Walking among these is always quite inspiring, imaging those who came before me. Nothing, however, prepares you for those who have come minutes before…other tourists.
Massive crowds fill the interior every day seeking to inspect this architectural phenomenon. Though classified as a temple, it is unknown how worship was conducted here as it is quite different from many other ancient Roman temples. Today, though, many take a seat near the altar, head bowed in prayer and contemplation…appropriate as its inception as a church when Byzantine emperor Phocas bequeathed it to Pope Boniface IV in AD 608.
The best way to appreciate the Pantheon (while dodging the crowds), however, is to walk around the round structure while noting that remarkably, the diameter is the same as the interior height of the dome. The architecture is most fascinating as the structure is comprised of a series of intersecting arches resting on eight piers. The arches correspond to the eight bays which house statues.
Interspersed between the bays are the tombs of many famous figures from Italian history…painters Raphael and Annibale Carracci, composer, Arcangelo Corelli and architect Baldassare Peruzzi as well as the Italian kings, Vittorio Emanuele II and Umberto I. There are also many paintings that adorn the walls, the best known being the Annunication by Melozzo da Forli.
The most amazing part of the Pantheon, however, is the oculus and probably the first thing your eye is drawn to when entering. An engineering feat of its time, no other constructed before was as large. Still lined with the original Roman bronze, it is the main source of light for the entire building. As the oculus is open to the elements, rain does fall into the interior. Tourists should never fear, however, the slightly convex floor allows the water to drain into the still functioning Roman drainpipes beneath.
After my visit was complete, I stepped out into the piazza to take a better look at the fabulous temple from afar. The crowds were probably as thick here as they were inside, however, I was able to step up onto the raised platform that surrounded the amazing fountain that holds court in the center of the square.
After my photographs of the Pantheon were taken, I turned around to inspect the bubbling water behind me. Funny, as many times as I had walked through this piazza and visited the Pantheon, I had only ever glanced at the fountain due to the large crowds that surround it.
The Fontana del Pantheon was commissioned by Pope Gregory XIII and sculpted entirely out of marble. When the fountain was modified over a hundred years later, a new basin made of stone was installed and the Macuteo obelisk that you see today, was placed in the center. The original marble figures that were originally installed, were removed in 1886, replaced with copies and placed in the Museum of Rome. Much more beautiful up close!
If you are on your way to the Piazza Navona, or just in the area, step inside to see this incredible architectural gem and then have a seat around the beautiful fountain. Grab a gelato or a drink and relax for a while.
With so many visitors, you never know who you might meet!
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Pantheon
- http://www.polomusealelazio.beniculturali.it/index.php?it/232/pantheon
- Address: Piazza della Rotonda, 00186 Rome
- Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0830-1930, Sunday, 0900-1800. Mid-week holidays, 0900-1300. Closed January 1, May 1, December 25.
- Admission: free
- Getting There: Take bus 117 and get off at Corso-Minghetti. The Pantheon is a 4 minute walk.