Five churches, a market, an overlook, an arch, dinner and a procession?
That’s a lot for one day!
On our third day in Antigua, we had a trip to Pacaya volcano planned during the afternoon, so we decided that after our busy previous day, we were going to take it easy and hang out near our hotel at the market during the morning.
Well, that was the plan anyway!
Entering the property from Alameda de Santa Lucia, we headed in to what we thought was the artisan’s market. Instead, we found the local market, filled with clothing, shoes, dvd’s and any other thing you could think of besides souvenirs. A little confused, we continued to walk around, thinking that maybe we had confused the El Carmen market with what we thought was here. Finally, we stumbled upon the entrance to a modern building, a little to the back and on the south side of the local market.
Built around large, centralized courtyards, the Mercado de Artesanías contains many vendors selling from their small spaces, each hoping to gain your attention and business. There is a wide variety of beautiful and colorful Guatemalan handicrafts here.
Since I had already purchased some creatively embroidered blouses and table runners the day before at the small market at Santuario San Francisco El Grande, I was only looking a nativity set and a mask for my collections and crucifixes for my parents. Of course, I was open to whatever else I could find and I had quite a bit of cash ready!
There were food and drink vendors, an ATM and clean bathrooms on site and the entire atmosphere appeared as if it had been built sometime in the last few years.
It was quite difficult to narrow down my decisions, but I learned that vendors were more willing to bargain if you were purchasing more than one item. So, Marta made me the best deals and we walked away very happy with everything I had been searching for.
At the back of the market, we found some interesting booths selling colorful bags of sawdust and paper cutouts with intricate patterns. We had seen colorful sawdust in the streets between the cobblestones. Could this all be related? It would take some time, but the significance of this would be revealed to us later!
Passing the bus station with the colorfully painted and hyped up, re-purposed school buses, called the Chicken Buses, we exited the market. My son had not found the shirts that he had hoped for so we headed back to the front of the local market for soccer shirts and then all the way back to El Carmen for t-shirts.
Taking a look at my watch, we had quite a bit of time before our pick-up for our tour, so we decided to head over to Hotel Casa Santo Domingo. The young lady at our front desk had told us that the hotel had a museum and ruins within and it was worth making our way there.
At this point, we were a couple of blocks away, so, why not?
Hotel Casa Santo Domingo, a five star hotel, is built within and around the ruins of a cathedral and this forms the basis of a number of museums and art galleries all accessed via the hotel with the one admission price. Though it took some doing to figure out the entrance point, eventually we made our way through hallways until we reached the main lobby and then the grounds… here, we were blown away!
Once the church and convent of Santo Domingo and Santo Tomás de Aquino (Saint Thomas Aquinas) College, there are six museums on the premises in addition to restaurants and the hotel; the Colonial Museum, the Archaeology Museum, the Museum of Pre-Columbian Art and Modern Glass, the Silver Museum, the Pharmacy Museum and the Marco Augusto Quiroa and the Artists Halls.
There were beautiful gardens to walk through and ruins which included the Chapel of the Niches, the Main Cloister and Fountain, the Convent Crypt which contained human remains, the Capitulary Chamber and the Cathedral, which was set up for Easter Sunday Mass.
As we walked around the premises, it was quite surreal to see balconies of hotel rooms and to hear families playing in the adjacent swimming pool.
Around the central courtyard, we watched workers decorate the area around the fountain…using stencils, much like we had just seen at the market, they sprinkled colorful sawdust through the openings, creating unique patterns. This pattern was highlighted with fruits and vegetables, similar to what we had seen at Santuario San Francisco El Grande. Now, it was starting to make sense. Could this be related to the carpets that everyone was talking about?
Leaving Hotel Casa Santo Domingo, we realized that we had just enough time to stop by an awesome little restaurant that we had seen the day before…Antojitos Salvadorenos. Years ago, in Belize, we had papusas for the first time. Over the years, I have made a point of ordering them when available and today was not going to be the exception.
For those who are not familiar with papusas, they are doughy, delicious corn tortillas stuffed with a mixture of meat and cheese and then served with pickled slaw (Curtido) and tangy sauce. This artsy little restaurant, definitely did not disappoint, both price-wise and taste-wise!
Walking quickly, we made it back to our hotel, with just enough time to freshen up and gather what we needed for our volcano hike.
Everything else in Guatemala had so far exceeded our expectations…would the Pacaya volcano do so as well?
To be continued…
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Well, that was me, who basically slept through the earthquake the night before.
I was well rested and ready for our first big day in Antigua…my son, not so much! The earthquake rattled him in more ways than one!
Enjoying a delicious breakfast at our hotel, we then grabbed the necessities and headed out into Antigua’s streets ready to discover everything else there was about this beautiful city.
Our first destination was Cerro de la Cruz (Cross on the Hill). The proprietor of our hotel had shown us pictures and insisted we visit in the morning when the crowds are not as plentiful and the skies are usually clear.
Heading to the other side of town and the road that leads to the overlook, I decided that it would be fun (and less tiresome) to hire a tuk-tuk to take us up the steep drive. Though the tuk-tuk sometimes strained under the precipitous road conditions, we soon pulled into the parking area. Although the driver wanted to wait for us, we sent him on his way as we had already decided to make the hike down after our visit.
The hill provides sweeping views of the city and the magnificent volcano towering over it. In 1930, the famous cross, devoted to the city’s patron saint, was installed on the hill, first created from wood, then later, converted to stone. It is a place where most tourists come to enjoy the views and see the city’s famous landmarks, from above, that they have seen from eye-level. With the city’s grid pattern, it is easy to spot the central Plaza Mayor and make your way around, spotting the Iglesia Merced, the Santa Catalina Arch and many other of Antigua’s monuments amongst the red tiled roofs.
There were a great many vendors selling drinks, snacks and handcrafted items. It was a given that I had to try the shaved ice, something I have loved since I was a child. This one, however, was a bit different from any I have had in the past. After adding the ice to the cup, instead of the usual syrup-y juice usually used, a thick fruit juice was poured in with actual fruit. She then added condensed milk (my fave!) to top it all off! So delicious! It was such a treat to enjoy this local favorite while enjoying the amazing view!
Soon, we decided to hit the trail. Winding downward through the forest, we made our way back down to 1A Avenida. It was startling to see random ruins shadowing everyday life…even a basketball court where teenagers practiced their techniques.
Continuing on our way, we passed colorful buildings, fruit merchants, building decorated for Holy Week, places of business, different modes of transportation and interesting doorways leading to beautiful courtyards. Yes, I was a bit of a voyeur, always peeking in!
Arriving at the gate of the Santuario San Francisco el Grande, we found a hub of activity. Locals selling fruits and nuts lined the wall outside the compound and many vendors filled tents along the inner wall selling candles, handicrafts, clothing and other woven items. Food vendors filled the courtyard and the delicious aroma of typical Guatemalan food filled the air.
Making our way toward the front of the church, it was difficult not to be impressed with its impressive facade. Twisted columns made their way up to the top of the church and carved niches were filled with statues of saints and friars, including the Virgin Mary, San Diego de Alcalá, San Antonio de Padua, San Juan Capistrano, Santa Clara, Santiago, and Santa Isabel from Hungary. The bell and clock towers from the 17th and 19th centuries still remain on the left side of the building, but the right side still exhibits extensive damage from past earthquakes, lending to its mystique.
Since it was Holy Week, many locals entered with us to pray and pay their respects to Santo Hermano Pedro, whose shrine is located within the church. Inside the main part of the church, we found an amazing sight…a long, brightly colored carpet lined with fruits and vegetables, headed by a display depicting a cross-carrying Christ. Unlike anything we had ever seen, we jostled with the crowds to gain a better view of this spectacle.
We learned later that this church is held in very high regard within the city and is used as the starting point of the Calle los Pasos (Steps Street) which holds the Station of the Cross. At three o’clock on Fridays during Lent, with men participating, the statue of Jesus Nazareno is carried on their shoulders from Santuario San Francisco el Grande, stopping at each of the stations and traveling one thousand three hundred and twenty-two steps…exactly the amount Jesus traveled from the praetorian palace to the mount of El Calvario. Women make the same trek on Thursdays during Lent at five o’clock and penance and mass is celebrated after both rituals.
Making our way to the side of the church, we found the tomb of Santo Hermano Pedro (Brother Peter) or Peter of Saint Joseph Betancur, a missionary of Spanish origin who resided in Guatemala. He was beatified in 1980, canonized in 2002 and enshrined at the church. Known as the St. Francis of Assisi of the Americas, he was the founder of the Order of Our Lady of Bethlehem and devoted his life to visiting hospitals, jails and assisting the unemployed and the young. In 1658, he established a hospital for the poor and later a shelter for the poor, a school of the poor, an oratory and an inn for priests. Many miracles have been attributed to Santo Hermano Pedro and a large number of devoted were spied praying to his tomb asking for intercessions.
Walking out of the church, we made our way through the gardens, admiring the shrines, statues, fountains and murals that adorn the area.
Before departing this fascinating religious site, we just stood on the steps for a while and took a look over the entire area. Evident that Holy Week plays such an important part in the lives, the Guatemalans were in a festive spirit and it was a great moment to enjoy their traditional clothing and positive energy.
Heading toward the center of town, we finally went to inspect the Santa Catalina Arch during the daytime hours. Just down the street from La Fonda, where we had dined the night before, we had seen it from afar, lighted as it is during the darkened hours. Today, we wanted to see it lit by the sun. Truly spectacular both ways, it is evident by the throngs of tourists that come here during their visits to take their picture in front of or under the bright yellow span.
One of the most photographed landmarks in the city, it was built in the 17th century and connected the Santa Catalina convent to a school, allowing the cloistered nuns to pass from one building to the other out of public view. During the 1830’s, its beautiful, colonial-era, clock was added to the top, giving it the look that we see today.
Once our photographs were completed, we headed down Avenida Norte, through the arch to our next point of interest, Iglesia de La Merced.
As we approached the beautiful, yellow and white church, we made our way through the festive booths set up for Holy Week, with offerings much like we had seen at Santuario San Francisco el Grande.
Unlike Santuario San Francisco el Grande, however, Iglesia de La Merced appears to be unaffected by earthquakes and has a fascinating architectural history.
When the Mercedarians set out to establish the first convent for men in Ciudad Vieja, their plans were short lived. The convent was wiped out before the construction was complete when a mudslide from the nearby Agua Volcano wiped out the city. The city was relocated to what is now known as Antigua and permission was granted in 1541 for a second church to be built. Forty two years later, the church was finally completed, only to be destroyed by earthquakes. In 1749, architect Juan de Dios Estrada, studied the design failures of the previous architects and set out to adapt traditional baroque designs to survive the instability of the region. Lowering the ceilings, adding thick walls and thicker buttresses made this third church more earthquake resistant and despite the massive earthquake of 1773 (and subsequent earthquakes), the church has remained standing, mostly unaffected.
The facade, flanked by two bell towers, was captivating with its unique stucco work with its Moorish influenced arabesque patterns. Images of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Mercy and other prominent Mercedarians such as St. Pedro Armengol, St. Maria de Cervello and St. Raymundo Nonnatus reside in niches between the elaborately decorated columns and at the top of the church, Pedro Nolasco, the founder of the Order of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Mercy keeps watch on the square below.
At the time of our arrival, the church was not open to visitors and there was much hubbub on the premises as both children and adults entered the convent area, readying themselves for the evening’s Holy Week processions. The convent was open for visitation, however, and we decided that we should not miss out.
Paying our admission, we entered the remains of the convent, making our way to the center where the a large fountain can be admired from both the lower and upper levels. The fountain was designed in the shape of a water lily, a traditional symbol of power for the Mayan people and is said to be the largest in Hispanic America. It is believed that the Mercedarian monks used this fountain to raise fish to supplement their diet.
As we made our way around the courtyard, we took note of the children dressed in the Sunday finest, taking pictures, obviously excited for the upcoming festivities. All around the courtyard, the components of the procession could be spied, ready and waiting for the events to begin.
Making our way up to the top part of the convent, we were amazed at the incredible 360 degree views. All of the nearby volcanoes could be spied, as well as closer views of the bell towers and the city surrounding the church.
Heading eastward from La Merced, our next destination was Santa Teresa de Jesus, a church and convent built between 1677 and 1678 by architect José de Porres for the Discalced Carmelite nuns. As with many of the other religious sites in Antigua, the earthquake of 1717, caused considerable damage to the structure and the earthquake of 1773 resulted in the domes of the convent to collapse.
The Renaissance-styled facade of the church faces Calle Oriente, however, the entrance to the convent, is located around the corner on Alameda Santa Rosa.
A small-scale fountain filled the main courtyard and there were small rooms exhibiting models of the church and convent as it once was and stone carvings rescued from the ruined structures. What we found interesting, when we headed upstairs, however, was that in the United States, if a building was in this condition and had no guard railings and open walls and windows, the building would be considered condemned. Here, you are welcomed in and allowed to walk around at your leisure, inspecting every corner and space. Thankful for this, we took complete advantage and enjoyed our explorations of the convent, discovering that after the destruction from the earthquake, it was abandoned and then occupied by poor families, used as a wine distillery, a place to dry coffee beans and then used as a jail from the 1940’s until 2007.
As the day was coming to a close, we walked by the Mercado de Artesanias El Carmen. The market is adjacent to the old church ruins of El Carmen. Though the ravaged church is not open to visitors, we were able to duck into the market and purchase a few souvenirs.
The last landmark on our itinerary for the day was the Iglesia y Convento de Capuchinas (Church and Convent of the Capuchins), one of the most visited sites in Antigua.
Las Capuchinas, as it is simply known by the locals, is also the nickname of the founding religious order. After the arrival of the Clarissine nuns in Guatemala, they were given approval for construction of the complex from King Phillip V in 1725 with the commencement in 1731. A short five years later, the structure, built in the Renaissance style by architect Diego de Porres, was completed and was the last women’s convent founded in the city.
Today, the convent operates as a tourist attraction and often, a popular wedding venue. As we walked through the main courtyard, we noticed a young girl, bedecked in a flowing gown, awaiting the beginning of her quinceanera, being held on the premises. Those fans of actors Dulé Hill and Jazmyn Symon, might also recognize the convent as the setting of their wedding in May of 2018.
We especially enjoyed the grounds of Las Capuchinas. Though the convent was considered small by comparison to others in the city, with only twenty-five nuns in residence, because of the lavish grounds, I felt as though it was quite larger than the other places we had visited.
The church was accessible to visitors and amazingly still had its roof in place. Though there was not much decoration remaining, it was an amazing space and easy to imagine what it must have looked like during its prime.
Heading to the rear of the complex, we ventured into a circular underground room which historians have speculated was used by the nuns to either store food, practice their singing or pray while walking in circles. A tour guide was present with her clients and we watched as they were instructed to stand on either side of the room and whisper to the wall. Incredibly, the other, so far away, could hear their words! Of course, we had to try!
A circular building at the rear of the property, set among the lavish greenery also caught our attention. Though its purpose was not clear, some have argued that it was designed for spiritual retreats or possibly acted as a chamber for carrying out penance. Other theories advise that it may have been an asylum for older nuns suffering from dementia or even a water storage facility. Within the small archways of this building, there are a couple of displays (complete with mannequin nuns) showing what the nun’s cells might have looked like.
Finally, we made our way back to the main courtyard and climbed to the upper level, looking down on the small fountain which was brought from the former Santa Ines church. The upper level was filled with colorful flowers and had the most serene feeling. No wonder so many choose to exchange their vows here!
As the sun dipped lower in the sky, down past the peaks of the nearby volcanoes, it was time to call it a day. We had seen so many astounding architectural monuments and there was still even more to explore.
More religious processions.
More landmarks.
More Guatemalan delicacies.
Much more Antigua!
Holy Week Procession on Night 2
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Cerro De La Cruz
Address: Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Hours: 0800-1800, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Take 1A Avenida and follow it North. At the base of the inclining hill, you will find the beginning of the hiking trail, marked by a sign welcoming you to Cerro de la Cruz. To your left will be a set of concrete stairs leading into the forest. This is the path that will lead you to the overlook. You can also hire a tuk-tuk for a couple of dollars.
We could hate it…or it could be one of our most memorable trips yet!
One of the best parts of travel is discovering new places and cultures. I find it extremely exhilarating to explore a new city and find out what makes it tick!
What was it about Antigua Guatemala that makes it worthy to have received the distinction of UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979?
Antigua Guatemala means “Old Guatemala” and was the third capital of Guatemala, after earthquakes and uprisings forced the movement of the first two. Located in the central highlands of Guatemala, it is known for its beautifully preserved Spanish Baroque-influenced architecture and the large number of colonial churches ruined during previous years earthquakes.
Laid out in a square pattern, with streets running from north to south and east to west, we found that La Antigua (as it is sometimes referred to) was quite easy to navigate. As we set out onto the cobblestone streets, we passed many buildings that had been damaged during earthquakes. Rather than appearing as eyesores, however, these buildings, including the Antiguo Colegio de la Campaña de Jesús among others, add character to the charming city,
The Antiguo Colegio de la Campaña de Jesús is located next to the Spanish Embassy and was once a Jesuit monastery and college, established in 1626. After the Jesuits were expelled in 1767, the great earthquake that hit six years later, left the unoccupied building in ruins. Though we were unable to venture directly into the main part of the building, the Spanish government, which restored most of the complex, has turned it into a cultural center. Outside, we were able to admire the extravagantly carved (yet mostly headless) statues that grace the facade of the main building, but inside the complex, we were able to enjoy serene courtyards and abundant pieces of artwork on display.
Continuing our journey, we came to the heart of the city, the Plaza Mayor. This central plaza is a gathering spot for locals and visitors and is centered with a fountain. There are large trees that offer shade during the hottest parts of the day and benches to rest and talk. Due to the large number of visitors in town for the Holy Week’s festivities, there were many vendors attempting to peddle their wares and many locals in traditional dress. The perfect spot for people-watching!
Surrounding the square are a large number of restaurants, shops and banks, including the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, which incorporates the headquarters of the Guatemala Institute of Tourism, the Antigua Tourism Association, the National Police and the Sacatepquez Department government.
Dominating the eastern side of the Plaza Mayor is the Antigua Guatemala Cathedral. The original church, built in 1541, was damaged heavily by many earthquakes over the years. The original church was demolished in 1669 and rebuilt and consecrated in 1680. The largest in Central America at the time, it was filled with precious works of art and housed the remains of Conquistador Pedro de Alvarado and his wife, Beatriz de la Cueva. In 1773, the catastrophic Santa Marta earthquake demolished much of the city and movement of the capital to (what is now known as) Guatemala City, was deemed necessary. This earthquake also seriously damaged most of the cathedral. Belonging to the parish of San Jose, the cathedral’s interior presently only occupies the entrance hall of the original edifice. It is not as richly decorated as I would have imagined, but it was nice to see the stations of the cross and the other holy statues, especially those decked out for Semana Santa.
As we walked out of the back doors into a cemented courtyard, we admired the exterior architecture of not only the cathedral but the buildings surrounding the cathedral. Noticing an entryway, we approached and found that we could investigate the ruins that remain from when the cathedral was demolished by the massive earthquake of 1773. Paying our entry fee, we walked through the remains of this once grand cathedral, mostly open above so that we could glimpse the blue sky. Though it takes a bit of imagination to envision how the cathedral once looked, it was exciting to walk through the structure, examining the ruined chapels and seeing the remains of the carved details atop the columns.
Something we learned was that after the destruction of the
church, it temporarily served as a cemetery.
Many tunnels have been discovered under the cathedral and we were also
able to descend into the South Crypt. A
dark, damp place, there was not much to see, but you can imagine the many souls
that have come to rest here.
In the rear of the remains, we found a work area where many pieces are being restored or placed for safekeeping. Despite the absence of many walls and a ceiling, this cathedral took my breath away for the purity that still remains. Much like visiting the Acropolis in Athens or the Forum in Rome, the detritus of this ancient structure leave much to the imagination, yet take your breath away at the same time.
After leaving the cathedral, we walked past the park once again, heading back to our hotel so that we could spend some time refreshing ourselves for much needed nourishment.
A couple of blocks from our hotel, on the corner of Alameda de Santa Lucia and 5a Calla Poniente, we peered through the gates at what we later learned was the Landivar Monument, dedicated to poet and local, Rafael Landivar. Built in 1953, this monument, erected in a park-like setting, pays tribute to the beloved writer and Jesuit priest who lived from 1731 until 1793. Though we walked by this peaceful place, every day, we never seemed to find the gates unlocked, though we were told that it would be open daily. Content to spy on its tranquility through the iron bars, we decided to save this for a future visit.
After a recommendation from our hotel for dinner, we headed back into the night seeking out the restaurant, La Fonda de la Calle Real, located near the Plaza Mayor. As we approached the park, we learned for the first time what the Santa Semana processions of this small city consisted of.
Hundreds of people lined the street of Poniente, which runs east to west, adjacent to the park. Processing down the street was a lighted, massive, religious, wooden shrine hoisted on the shoulders of a religious guild. Moving and swaying slowly to the melancholy music of the accompanying band, we watched in awe as the barge, complete with life-size effigies of the Virgin Mary and Jesus, passed a few feet from us. Many others marched with the procesiónes, dressed in robes and waving censers clouding the air with the smoke from burned incense.
As a Catholic, it was something to see…inspiring, touching and thrilling all at the same time!
Once the crowds dispersed, we finally headed to La Fonda unequivocally anticipating some delectable Guatemalan cuisine. Seated in a courtyard, open to the night sky, we started with guacamole and then both chose the traditional dish, Suban-iq, chicken, pork and beef slowly cooked in banana leaves, covered in a tomato, chilies and spices sauce. Accompanied by homemade tortillas (being made by a lady near the entryway), the food was delicious and just what we needed after our long day of travel and sightseeing.
Heading back to our hotel, stomachs filled, we eagerly readied ourselves for bed and within seconds, my mind reeling from all that we had experienced so far, I was asleep.
Not for long.
Shaken from my sleep, I sat up and realized that we had experienced our first earthquake! Though I was able to go back to sleep immediately, my son said that there were three or four aftershocks, making him a bit nervous, knowing that there were three nearby volcanoes.
What can I say? All in a days time, we had discovered so much! A new country, a new city, a new culture, new religious traditions, new foods and something entirely new (and a bit scary) to the both of us…an earthquake.
Yes, we were discovering Antigua…and this was only Day One!
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Antiguo Colegio de la Campana de Jesus
Address: H747XQ Antigua, Guatemala
Hours: 1000-1700
Admission: free
Plaza Mayor
Hours: 24 hours
Admission: free
Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Address: 5a Calle Oriente 5, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Hours: 0900-1700
Admission: Main church, free. Ruins, Q20 (about $3.00 US)
Landivar Monument
Address: Alameda de Santa Lucia, Antigua Guatemala, Guatemala
Spying a church steeple down the street while walking back from the East Side Gallery in Berlin, I found my feet turning automatically in that direction.
Not wanting to miss something good, even though I was trying to make it back to my hotel for my dinner plans, I thought, “Just a quick look“.
Though the church’s interior wasn’t open for inspection, I did learn quite a bit about the property from the signboards posted at the front and back of the church’s property.
This was more than a church…this was about an entire square.
Architect August Soller, whose grave can be spied at St. Michael’s, was tapped to design the city’s third oldest Roman Catholic church. With plans completed in 1845, construction commenced six years later with much influence from Soller’s travels in Italy; mainly churches in Padua and Venice. So, when you spy St. Michael’s, as it was originally meant to be seen, with its view beyond the water feature (the remains of the Luisenstadt Canal) its conception from Venice’s churches along their waterways can be understood, as I was about to discover.
Completed in 1861, St. Michael’s served as a garrison church for Catholic soldiers due to its location near the border between Berlin-Mitte locality and Kreuzberg and was established by King Frederick William IV. After damage during World War II, it was partially reconstructed in the 1950’s. Now protected as a historical monument in Berlin, you can still see the wounds it sustained during the “Bombing of Berlin”, as you walk around the exterior of the church.
Though the church’s original walls and dome remain, the roof and the interior, including its organ, was destroyed. As I stood before the church’s entrance, it was amazing to be able to see the surviving dome through the portal window below the bell tower. Beneath the window is a mosaic depicting the Annunciation which surprisingly survived the bombing along with the church’s facade and entrance.
Long before the church’s completion, an idea to build a waterway through Luisenstadt was conceived. The idea was shelved until 1840, when the King of Prussia made the decision that a canal should connect the Landwehrkanal and the River Spree to reduce travel on the latter. With construction beginning in 1948, the first ship sailed along the waterway, passing St. Michael’s church in 1952, before turning at Engelbecken, the canal basin.
Despite the King’s determination in fulfilling the canal project, many years later, in 1926, the decision to fill in the Luisenstädt Canal was made due to noise, odor and lack of use. The Engelbecken, was then developed as a park under the guidance of landscape architect Erwin Barth. Though Barth’s main desire was to keep the canal, an idea not popular with the city’s government, he finally succeeded in developing the Engelbecken, surrounded by a green space. The canal basin became the Angel’s pool, a pond for swans surrounded by gardens.
Making my way across the Michaelkirchplatz, I stood on the raised viewing platform, anxious for a better look at the church, however, looking down at the Angel’s pool and the adjacent garden’s I anxiously searched for the steps leading to the area.
Cafe Am Engelbecken sits at the canal’s original water level, a relaxing spot to take in an afternoon tea or aperitif. Walking along the pool, lined with hedges and greenery, I glanced across at the picturesque and precise buildings which spread out along the perimeter. Pergolas hover above the path, awaiting the new growth of the warmer weather and I could only imagine how beautiful my walk would be during the summer when the Virginia creeper, climbing ross and clematis cling tightly to the structures. Arriving at the far end of the pool, it was then that I understood Soller’s idea of St. Michael’s position on a waterway, much like the Venetian churches.
This is the best view of St. Michael’s church!
The rose gardens, destroyed by the construction of the Berlin Wall, were excavated in 1993 by the Berlin Historic Gardens Conservation and a path runs down past the Oranienplatz between both Legiendamm and Leuschnerdamm. The path is highlighted by the Indische Brunnen, an eastern-style fountain also called the Hindu Springs. Although I exited at Oranienplatz, the path continues all the way down to Böcklerpark.
My detour to St. Michael’s church was definitely worth the eventual mad dash to my dinner plans. Very interested to learn about its and the surrounding area’s history, I now have another mission to see the interior of this historic church, which probably will not warrant, just a quick look!
I’m blocking off the whole afternoon!
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For you and me, it could be the barrier between our bedroom and the hallway.
For Germans, during the years between 1961 and 1989, it meant something vastly different.
The Berlin wall was a heavily guarded, concrete barrier, that divided Germany both physically and politically during the Cold War. Constructed by the German Democratic Republic, it remained until its demolition in November 1990 after the reopening of the border in 1989.
There are many of my colleagues who remember the division of their country and more importantly, when the wall came down. One friend tells me that each time she comes back to Berlin, she still get emotional when she sees the portions of the wall that remain, reminders of the years of separation from her family.
Today, the wall is a large draw for visitors to Berlin, eager to see the physical barrier that split families and friends. There are quite few locations where the wall can be seen in the city, including Mauerpark, Checkpoint Charlie, the Berlin Wall Memorial, Schlesischer Busch Watch Tower, Potsdamer Platz and the longest remaining stretch at the East Side Gallery located on Mühlenstraße. Having visited the wall on a few occasions, it is always surprising to see how narrow it really was. I guess I always thought that its height and depth was what deterred people from scaling it and defecting to the other side, however, the guards and their machine guns were the real obstacle.
A few years ago, while on a tour bus, we had driven down Mühlenstraße and I was mesmerized by the brightly painted longest span of the wall. Why it had taken me so long to return, I am not sure, but on this trip to Berlin, I was going to take advantage of the sunny afternoon.
Arriving at the East Side Gallery, I decided to start at the part of the wall nearest to the Oberbaum Bridge, the iconic double decker bridge that crosses the River Spree (note to self, come check out this beautiful bridge on another trip to the city!).
At the start of the wall, there is the Berlin Wall Museum, located on the second floor of the Pirates of Berlin building, a great place to start your exploration of the history of the wall.
This museum, founded on the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Wall at Checkpoint Charlie (November 2014), highlights why and how the wall was built and how Germans, both East and West, suffered; how this aberration changed people’s lives. There are many historical facts, exhibitions, film clips and photos and a portion of the museum that commemorates the dead who died on the wall during its twenty-eight years of existence.
Mikhail Gorbachev had announced the founding of the museum on the occasion of the 25th anniversary of the fall of the Wall at Checkpoint Charlie in November 2014 in Berlin. A part of the museum is dedicated to him, as he is a trigger and guarantor of change and a peaceful revolution.
After my departure from the museum, I headed to the start of the wall and made my way down its length, taking the time to examine each of the one hundred and five murals painted by artists from all over the globe. Possibly the largest and longest lasting open-air gallery in the world, originated in 1990, the murals document the time of change when the wall fell and the jubilation that those affected by its presence experienced.
Though some of the paintings have suffered from exposure to the elements, the heritage protected landmark still draws over three million visitors every year. Work has been conducted to restore over a third of the murals and the effort continues.
Any visit to Berlin should include a stop at one of the remaining portions of the wall. The East Side Gallery is highly recommended for its artistic renditions of the joy felt around the world when the wall came down. Head first to the museum, walk the wall’s length and even check out the backside, filled with graffiti…the perfect place to enjoy both the river and an important historic landmark marking the reunification of Germany.
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Some of the best views of Zurich can be found from Lindenhof Hill.
Lindenhof’s lofty location, atop the remains of a glacier, made it the prime location for the Roman’s to build a citadel during the years of Valentinian. This fortification was used as a line of defense against migration from the North by the Alamanni. Outfitted with ten towers and thick, two meter wide walls, it eventually became the fortification of the historical center of Zurich, rising twenty-five meters above the Limmat River.
Over the years, many other types of construction were situated on the hill, including a chapel and a royal residence. Graves of late medieval children and adults were also found in 1937 by archaeologists.
Finally, with the demolition of the royal residence, the hill became the only public park within the city walls, where residents met and bow and crossbow shooting were practiced. A variety of trees and plants were instilled in the park and in 1688, the Hedwig Fountain, sculpted by Gustav Siber, which depicts the legend of the siege of Zurich (1292), was erected in the park.
In 1851, the Masons purchased the adjacent Paradies building and converted it into a lodge. In 1865, the park was redesigned and chestnut and acacia trees introduced. The local population was not happy with its new look and in 1900, the park was given its present appearance.
Today, the park is a popular meeting spot and the location where numerous public events and festivals are held. Some of the best views of the city can be had here so on any given day, a large number of tourists can be found in the park, enjoying the beautiful Swiss buildings and clear river below.
The adjacent streets are closed to automotive traffic and it is a short walk to the church of St. Peter’s and the Fraumunster from Lindenhof Hill.
If you are new to visiting to visiting the city and want to first get your bearings, take a hike up the hill to Lindenhof park. You can get a lay of the land and then take the short walk to the other landmarks of the city.
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Where would you go for the price of a train ticket?
Rome has set the bar very high for me as far as Italian cities go. I never tire of walking through the city and finding that around every corner there is something bigger and better. I don’t ever feel as though I need to venture outside of the city.
Milan, however, was never a place that I could find footing with. In fact, I would complain (to anyone who would listen) about how much I hated going there. I always felt like I had to work extra-hard to find the things that make it Milan…and it was never just around the corner.
Over the years, I have done research and found those outstanding and sometimes hidden gems that make Milan special…there were more than I ever imagined and more of which I hope to come. Lately, however, I have stumbled upon an interesting fact. The trains in Milan are relatively inexpensive.
For the price of a train ticket, I could venture outside of Milan and discover so much more. That inexpensive ticket opens up lots of possibilities with so many charming Italian cities nearby that you can explore.
Having visited the city of Pavia, about a 45 minute journey from Milan, I had heard about Certosa di Pavia, one of the largest monasteries in Italy. In fact, I had seen it in the distance from my window on the train when I visited Pavia. Filling the skyline in the countryside, it appeared imposing and mysterious…I had to buy a train ticket to check it out!
Getting to the monastery was quite easy. The subway near my hotel, brought me to Garibaldi station and from there I was able to take a train straight to the Certosa di Pavia station. One there, it was about a 12-15 minute walk, following the path around the high monastery walls to the entrance.
Having discovered that a tour was offered at the opening times in Italian only, I was a bit disappointed that there were no others in English. Someone, however, gave me a bit of advice…take the tour in Italian. Even if you don’t understand any of it, you will get to see parts of the monastery that are not open to those not taking part in the tour.
Time to muster all of my Italian…and I promise, there’s not enough in my repertoire to understand a guide on a tour.
There were many visitors congregating at the entrance and right on schedule, someone was there to open the gates and allow everyone in.
Now, I have been to the Duomo in Milan many times and to this day, I am still awe-struck by its beauty and intricacies. This place definitely gives the Duomo a run for its money! Towering above the grass courtyard, it simply takes your breath away! Every nook and cranny of the structure’s facade is filled with reliefs, statues and inlaid carvings and you want to stand there and take in every minute detail.
Heading inside, however, I was on a mission to make sure that I did not miss the tour. Mouth gaping at the larger than life-size statues dominating the dimly lit space, I obliged when beckoned by the monk behind the gates at the rear of the church.
Starting at the left side structure, our tour commenced with a request…no photographs. It was interesting however, to realize that the monks who reside in the monastery now are of the order of the Cistercians, those who have taken a vow of silence. How is it that this Cistercian monk was giving us a tour? It was later, that I learned that some of the monks have been released from their vow for the sole purpose of giving guided tours.
Moving throughout the spaces behind the gates, the monk guided us though each of the areas within the church probably informing our tour group of the important details about the church’s inception.
(My Italian lacking severely, I was busy sneaking photos, not even trying to comprehend what was being communicated!)
The monastery, built in 1396-1495, is one of the largest in Italy. Founded by the monastic order of Carthusians, the Certosa is vastly different in style than what the Carthusians were normally known for…simplicity of architecture.
Originally, the church was built to serve as a mausoleum for the Visconti family and was built in the Gothic style with a Latin cross plan, consisting of a nave, two aisles and transept. Indeed inspired by the Duomo of Milan, its crossed vaults on Gothic arches are alternately decorated with geometrical shapes and starry skies.
A fresco, Incoronation of Mary between Francesco and Ludovico Sforza can be seen in the main apse as well as other frescoes with saints and prophets. The Certosa also exhibits other painted masterpieces by Bergognone including the panels of St. Ambrose and San Siro and the Crucifixion. Some important paintings originally in the church have either disappeared or been disassembled and distributed among museums, including the National Gallery of London. Inside the Chapel of St. Michael, frescoes by Carlo Francesco Nuvolone can be inspected and there is an important collection of stained glass windows by 15th century masters, including Zanetto Bugatto, Vincenzo Foppa, Bergognone and Hans Witz. Many notable sculptural works can be found here including the carved wooden choir stalls, the marble altar frontals, a bronze candelabra by Annibale Fontana and a 16th century high altar.
The Chapel of St. MichaelThe Chapel of St. MichaelThe Chapel of St. Michael
The tomb of Gian Galeazzo Visconti can be found in the southern transept as well as the tomb of Ludovico Sforza, the 7th Duke of Milan and his wife Beatrice d’Este in the northern transept.
The tomb ofLudovico Sforza, the 7th Duke of Milan and his wife Beatrice d’Este
Reproduction of the tomb ofLudovico Sforza, the 7th Duke of Milan and his wife Beatrice d’Estein the Museum of Certosa di Pavia
The tomb of Gian Galeazzo Visconti
Following the monk, we were awestruck by the portal with sculptures by the Mantegazza brothers, leading to the Small Cloister with a small garden in the center and the terracotta decorations on the small pilasters. The Grande Cloister was similarly decorated with the cells of the monks opening to a central garden. It was quite interesting (and moving) to walk through one of the monk’s cells to see just how simply they lived.
The Small CloisterThe Small CloisterFountain in the Small Cloister
Fountain in the Small Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The Grande Cloister
The Grande CloisterThe Grande Cloister
The Grande CloisterThe monk’s gardenA monk’s cell
After our tour was complete, I once again walked through the parts of the church that had caught my attention and finally made my way to the Museum. With free admission, the museum is worth taking the time to walk through and displays many of the Certosa’s impressive pieces and informs about the history the area. What I loved the most, however, is the plaster casts of friezes from the church’s facade. Here you can see, up close, what you can’t see with the naked eye due their locations high in the facade.
Finally, I headed into the Monastic Shop where the products made by the monks who reside at the monastery are sold. There is a large selection of herbal teas, alcoholic beverages, soaps, honey, religious icons and rosaries for purchase and you might spy one of those monks catching a nap in the corner, like I did!
Before heading out, I spent some time walking around the grounds in front of the church before heading out to make my way back to the train station.
Happy that I learned about the inexpensive price of Italy’s trains, I inserted my few euros into the ticket machine and purchased my return ticket, headed back to Milan, dinner and some much needed rest.
Most impressed by the Certosa di Pavia, this will most certainly be the first of many adventures outside of Milan!
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Address: Via del Monumento, 4, 27012 Certosa di Pavia PV, Italy
Hours: 0900-1130 and 1430-1630. Closed Mondays.
Admission: free
Getting There: There are trains from many stations in Milan. I traveled from Milan Garibaldi station straight to, Certosa di Pavia, one stop before Pavia. You can see the monastery from the station and it is about a fifteen minute walk to the entrance to the monastery.
An impressive structure in the center of Milan, the Sforza Castle, built in the 15th century, is a must see while visiting the Italian city.
I have walked through the grounds many times but never gave a thought to the museum housed inside.
During the winter, it’s sometimes a struggle to find things to do when the weather is not optimum, so on a cold day, I finally decided to head over to check out everything the castle had to offer.
The castle, built by Francesco Sforza, the Duke of Milan on the remnants of a 14th century fortification, was built as a defensive castle. Throughout its history, it was destroyed, rebuilt and modified and was once one of the largest citadels in Europe. Today, the castle houses the Museums of the Castello and offers glimpses of masterpieces by Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci and Bramante.
Allowing myself just two and a half hours to see what the castle had in store for me, I exited the Cairoli metro station and enjoyed the architectural monument laid out before me. Stopping for a moment to enjoy the modest fountain, which frames the castle’s facade, I then made my way through the Torre del Filarete and into the castle’s courtyard. Making my way around the castle walls, I inspected each of the circular keep-towers and some of the statues and architectural ruins scattered throughout.
Often the site of artisan and farmer’s markets and entertainment, this day was no exception with artist Thiago Gusi giving us music to sight see by.
Finally, entering the museum, I paid my admission and began my exploration. I have to say, the amount of art and sculpture displayed here was mind-blowing and I quickly realized that I really should have allowed more time.
I won’t try to describe each and every piece in the museum, but as I moved through each of the rooms, there was a plethora of outstanding sculptural works, tapestries, frescoed ceilings, tiled floors, suits of armor, stained glass and painted canvases. Stunned by the quality and quantity, I glanced at my watch and moved as expeditiously as I could.
Thinking that my tour was almost complete, I discovered that, yes, there was more!
Moving through the museum, I found a whole other section highlighting furniture and then another, with religious icons. Each and every piece was more spectacular than the last.
As I glanced through the window at the waning daylight, I realized that my two and a half hours had passed much too quickly.
Having walked through and near the castle so many times, why had I never ventured into the castle’s museums before?
With such an affordable admission price, it won’t be the last!
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Hours: Castle, 0700-1930. Castle Museum, 0900-1730. Closed on Mondays, December 25, January 1 and May 1.
Admission: May 16, 2019-January 12, 2020, full ticket 10€ , reduced 8€ , reduced first Sunday of the month 5€ . Ticket includes the entrance to all the Castle Museums and Leonardo exhibitions. Free entry: every first and third Tuesday of the month from 1400. Guided tour every Saturday at 1500, 8€
Getting There: Metro, Cairoli (red line) , Cadorna (red and green line) and Lanza (green line) stations.
There are some amazing places in Barcelona to get beautiful views of the city.
The Montjuic Castle, the sight of an old military fortress, was a place I had been vowing to visit on one of my trips to Barcelona, yet, I just hadn’t been there with a day clear enough to take advantage of its orientation high above the city and the fantastic views it offered.
Starting my journey, I ventured out to the Plaza d’Espana metro station so that I could walk up the steps to the Museum of National Art of Catalonia and get a bit of exercise. The views here are also incredible as is the architecture and the Magic Fountain which can be seen in all its glory during operating hours (see schedule below).
Passing the gardens along Passeig de Santa Madrona, I made my way to the Avinguda de L’Estadi and the Telefèric de Montjuïc . Always looking for a fun way to travel, I assumed that the telefèric would be an amazing way to get up to the castle…and to be honest, I was quite tired!
Thrilled to find no line, I was able to secure my own cable car, allowing for optimum photographic opportunities. However, with the car being so light and the wind so strong, the swinging of the car from side to side was a bit daunting as we made the final stretch of the journey to the castle.
Stepping out of the telefèric station, I was happy to find the castle’s location right alongside, providing some instant photographic gratification.
Heading to the front of the castle, I found it to be much larger than I had anticipated and I admired the four bastions at each corner of the curtain wall. Crossing the bridge to the castle, which traversed the Santa Eulàlia Moat, I discovered it to be no longer filled with water, but with beautiful flowers and grassy areas.
Purchasing my ticket, I ventured onto the castle’s sea wall. There are many pieces of artillery and sculpture and entryways to the castle’s dungeon, but the most stunning is the 360º views of the port, the Mediterranean, the coastline and the area of Baix Llobregat.
Making my way around the castle I admired the architecture and the landscaping, eyeing the fruit trees at the rear of the property which made me realize how hungry I was, thinking maybe I would have to check out the cafe.
Entering the interior courtyard of the castle, the parade grounds, I ventured through the passageways, enjoying the displays at the rear of the castle highlighting the Mountain of Barcelona and how its position in the city has affected historical events, the Prison and Memory of Barcelona which tells about the castle’s history as a military prison and an exhibit which details The Search of Freedom.
Finally making my way to the terrace, the highest point of the castle, I took in the amazing views of Barcelona, Montjuïc Hill and the castle itself. On the roof, above the entrance, standing tall, is the square watchtower that signaled the arrival of ships through a system of sails during the day and bonfires at night. On the tower’s eastern and western facades, there are two sundials, dating back to 1777, which once was responsible for giving the time in the morning (eastern facing) and for the afternoon (western facing). A plaque on the base of the tower describes the tower as the location where the French astronomer Pierre Méchain obtained the geographical coordinates of Barcelona in 1792 and 1793 and established the trig point that would serve to measure the meridian from Dunkirk. The length of this meridian, linking Barcelona, Paris and Dunkirk, was used as the basis of the metric system.
From a sign posted near the tower, I learned that tours of the watchtower are conducted three to four times a day in both English and Catalan. Since I had missed the tour times, I had to content myself with enjoying the views from the outside. Making a mental note of the tour times, I decided that it would be important to plan the next visit according to the times posted, as I discovered that the guide also takes you down to the dungeons where extensive graffiti has been uncovered, made by those were imprisoned there during different stages of the building’s history.
As I headed back to towards the parade grounds, I located the cafe and eyed the sweet offerings in its showcase. Since it was later in the day, I decided to save my appetite for dinner and enjoy a cold beer in the courtyard instead. It was an amazing end to my day, soaking up both the architectural history and the warm afternoon sun.
As the afternoon came to a close, I wandered back the way I had come, to the telefèric station. Once again, I was able to secure a cable car for myself, only this time, the city was aglow in the light of the setting sun.
After exploring such a beautiful historical setting, I couldn’t image more of a magical ending to a fantastic day. So amazing to be soaring high above the amazing city of Barcelona!
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Address: Ctra. de Montjuïc, 66, 08038 Barcelona, Spain
Hours: March 1 until November 1, 1000-2000, daily. November 2 until February 28, 1000-1800, daily. Closed December 25 and January 1.
Admission: Standard admission, 5€, Reduced admission, 3€. Free admission on the first Sunday of the month and Sundays after 1500. Guided tours lasting 1 hour are offered at 1100 and 1500 each day and let visitors discover places within the castle not normally open to the public. Tours, 4€
Getting There: By foot. The walk uphill to Montjuïc Castle from the top of the funicular (lower station, Paral.lel, metro lines 2 and 3), adjacent to the cable car station, takes about 20 to 25 minutes. By public transportation. Bus, line 150, origin Avinguda de la reina Maria Cristina, terminus Montjuïc Castle. Bus 150 goes round Montjuïc Hill before finally reaching the Castle. The ride from Plaça d’Espanya takes about 20 minutes. The descent from the Castle to the beginning of the line also takes 20 minutes. Bus 150 also connects with the Telefèric de Montjuïc at the bus stop Avinguda de Miramar-Estació del Funicular. The cable car service begins in Avinguda Miramar and leaves visitors in front of the Castle. It has three stops, the first in Avinguda Miramar, one in the middle in the Plaça de la Sardana, and one in front of the Castle. The price of the cable car does not include admission to the Castle. By car. If you arrive by private vehicle, there is a large public car park near the castle on Carrer dels Tarongers.
Hours: November 1 until January 6, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2000-2100, music and color, 2000 and 2030. January 7 until February 28, closed for maintenance. March 1 until March 31, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2000-2100, music and color, 2000 and 2030. April 1 until May 31, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2100-2200, music and color, 2100 and 2130. June 1 until September 30, Wednesday to Sunday, 2130-2230, music and color, 2130 and 2200. October 1 until October 31, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2100-2200, music and color, 2100 and 2130.
If you want to see all that San Francisco has to offer, there is one place to go.
Coit Tower.
The slender white concrete column, rising from the top of Telegraph Hill, can be seen from throughout the city. Completed in 1933, it has attracted the attention of residents and tourists alike for its simple beauty and the 360 degree views it offers.
Having seen Coit Tower from afar, many times, I had never taken the time to make it up Telegraph Hill to see exactly what it offered. With the clear, spring day, complete with bright blue skies, spread out above me, however, I decided that it was high time to make the climb.
The grounds around the tower, Pioneer Park, were well-manicured and offered ample area to take a break on one of the many benches and enjoy the shade, especially after the steep climb. It’s also a great place to watch and look for its noisiest residents, a wild flock of parrots.
Entering the tower, I was directed to the gift shop to purchase an elevator pass to reach the observation deck and then made my way to the queue for the elevator. The elevator is quite small, slow, holds only about 8 people and is manually operated, so be prepared to wait, especially during peak times.
Stepping off the elevator into the sunshine flooding the upper area and filtering through the decorative arches, we eagerly made our way to the windows where, as far as the eye could see, was the Bay City! Sweeping views of the hills, valleys and the city’s most famous landmarks captivated our attention…the Golden Gate and Bay bridges, Alcatraz, the Transamerica Pyramid, Fisherman’s Wharf, Pier 39, Nob Hill, Russian Hill, Twin Peaks, Aquatic Park, the Financial District, the Ferry Building, Angel Island, Treasure Island and Lombard Street, as well as the five surrounding counties.
Though I was enjoying the comprehensive views of the city, I still wasn’t aware of the history of this intriguing structure, however, a chat with the tour guide gave me a bit of insight.
Lillie Hitchcock Coit, a wealthy, eccentric resident of the city passed away in 1929 and left one-third of her fortune for the purpose of adding beauty to the city that she so dearly loved. Designed by the architecture firm of Arthur Brown, Jr. (the designers of San Francisco’s City Hall), the 210 foot tower was built on Pioneer Park the former sight of an optical semaphore telegraph (1850), which was erected to alert residents of the arrival of ships. The tower was dedicated to the city’s volunteer firefighters that Lillie Coit so greatly admired. Another monument, also paid for with Coit’s funds and dedicated to the firefighters was erected in Washington Square. This sculpture depicts three firemen, one carrying a woman in his arms.
The tower is well known and often-depicted in advertisements and scenes hyping San Francisco. If you are a film buff and have a keen eye, however, you may have noticed Coit Tower highlighted in many films and television series. Hitchcock, himself, featured the tower in his 1958 film Vertigo and more recently, it appeared in the 2015 disaster film, San Andreas, the Eddie Murphy film, Dr.Dolittle and the television show, Charmed.
Once you have taken a tour of the top of the tower, make sure to spend some time to inspect the murals at the base of the tower. These murals were created by twenty-five local artists who were commissioned to create works of art which depict aspects of life in California.
Having made such an impression upon the city due to the generosity of Lillie Coit, honor her and take a walk up to the top of Telegraph Hill. After you see all that’s before you, I promise,
Address: 1 Telegraph Hill Blvd, San Francisco, CA 94133
Hours: April to October 1000-1800, November to March, 1000-1700. Closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.
Admission: Elevator Entrance fee, San Francisco residents, Adults, $6, Seniors 62+, $4, Youth 12-17 years, $4, Children, 5-11 years, $2, Children under 2, free. Non-residents, Adults, $9, Seniors 62+, $6, Youth 12-17 years, $6, Children, 5-11 years, $2, Children under 2, free.
