Remus and Romulus were born to Rhea Silvia (the daughter of a king) and the war god, Mars. There were ordered to be drowned in the Tiber River, but the trough in which they were placed floated down the river and came to rest at the site which would later become Rome. Finishing its journey at a sacred fig tree, the Ficus ruminalis, a she-wolf and a woodpecker, both revered by Mars, suckled and fed them until they were found.
After my visit to Segovia recently, I learned something. On my next visit to Rome, there is a place that I need to visit.
The Capitoline Museums.
Sure, I always enjoy the historical artifacts displayed in museums, especially in Rome, but there is one thing in particular that I want to see.
The famous bronze statue of the Capitoline Wolf with Romulus and Remus beneath her belly.
The Capitoline Wolf represents the origins of Rome and depicts the goddess Luperca suckling Romulus and Remus. The original was placed in the Palazzo dei Conservatori on the Campidoglio in Rome in 1471 but was then later moved to the Capitoline Museums. Today, a copy is situated on a pillar at the northern corner of the Palazzo Senatorio.
Crazy thing is that as many times as I have been to Rome, I was never aware that this statue existed. As I stepped off of the bus in Segovia, however, after the amazing aqueduct, a copy of this statue was one of the first things I saw.
Interesting enough, the original statue, located in Rome, was favored by Benito Mussolini, the Italian dictator. Upon his orders, duplicates were made and distributed to cities throughout the world, including Argentina, Austrailia, Belgium, Bolivia, Brazil, Canada, Chile, China, France, Guatemala, Hungary, Italy, Japan, Libya, Moldova, New Zealand, Norway, Romania, Sweden, Switzerland, Tajikistan, United Kingdom, United States, Uruguay and yes…Spain.
The statues were dedicated to the city of Segovia in 1974 as well as Merida, and Tarragona and today is a popular landmark…one of the first things visitors to the city see.
So don’t miss it. See it in Segovia. See it in Rome. See it in Paris. See it in Bucharest. See it…well…in many place, thanks to Mussolini.
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Statue of Remus and Romulus
Address: Plaza del Azoguejo 1, 40001 Segovia Spain
As a child, one of my favorite memories was waiting for the Wonderful World of Disney movie on Sunday nights. Seeing Tinkerbell flying onto the screen in front of the Disney Castle and all of the fireworks exploding behind it, was breathtaking! The anticipation was only second to Christmas Eve when we eagerly awaited the arrival of Santa and the presents under the tree the next morning!
The mere sight of this castle, in even a picture, was enough to trigger fantasies of not only what the movie would be that week, but also what it would be like to live in or even visit this castle. Castles were what our fantasies were made of…princesses, knights in shining armor and space to run freely and have spectacular games of hide and seek.
Visitors to Disney World have often wondered how Walt Disney, the theme park’s creator, conceived and brought to fruition, this beautiful castle. Had he seen one like it somewhere?
Visitors to Segovia, go to see not only the city’s amazing aqueduct, but the beautiful castle (or alcazar) that is rumored to have been Walt’s inspiration for Disneyworld’s castle.
Now, I’m a bit of a sucker for a castle. I love not only the history and the architecture, but the princess that resides in every woman, imagines that one day she is going to wander the halls of a castle in a foreign land, doling out orders to her ladies in waiting and whiling away the hours sewing, painting, dancing and waiting for her prince. So, when I have an opportunity to see an amazing “real-life” castle, I take it!
Walking through the city of Segovia, past the aqueduct, the Plaza Mayor and the many beautiful churches and cathedrals, I headed to the outermost edge of the city. I wanted to see the castle of Segovia.
Originally built as a fortress in the 12th century, it was later used as a royal palace, state prison, Royal Artillery College and military academy and is well known throughout Spain for its distinctive architecture. It was one of the favored residences of the monarchs and a key fortress in the defense of the kingdom with its location on the granite cliffs at the convergence of the Clamores and Esrema rivers. There are many secret passages that connect to these rivers and it is the location where Isabella was crowned in 1474 as the Queen of Castile and Leon.
And yes, as I approached the castle, I could truly see the similarities to what I had once set my eyes upon on visits to Disneyworld and on Sunday night television! It is a truly fascinating spectacle and I was excited as I entered the ticket office at the forefront of the property. Ticket in hand, I crossed the drawbridge and began my exploration.
Ticket Office
The castle is now used as a museum and a military archives building and when you enter, there are many different options of the areas to seek out. Follow the signs, as your visit is self guided, and take each space, one by one.
The highlights of the castle are its keep, its square with four towers and the hall raised by King John II of Castile which first served as a Weapons room. There are magnificent courtyards filled with statues and artillery and the Cellars in which the foundations of the castle can be found.
The Hall of the Palace contains suits of armor and leads to the Hall of the Galley with its magnificent stained glass windows representing Henry III of Castile and his family and Henry II of Castile with scenes of the death of Peter I and John II. A beautiful painting depicting the coronation of the queen Isabella I of Castile decorates one of the walls, but it is the coffered ceiling that takes center stage. The room was built by the queen of Catherine of Lancaster in 1412.
Hall of the PalaceHall of the PalaceHall of the GalleyHall of the Galley
The Throne Room contains portraits of the kings, the coat of arms of the Catholic Monarchs, the throne seating and leads to the Hall of the Fireplace with its tapestry of Our Lady’s betrothal. The Royal Chamber’s main focus is the brocade covered bed, woven in gold, along with scenes of the family life of the Catholic Monarchs.
Throne Room
Hall of the Fireplace
The Hall of the Kings truly took my breath away with its gold inlaid ceiling set with statues corresponding to the Kings of Asturias, Leon and Castile. There is a portrait of Philip II and two portraits of his wives, Elisabeth of Valois and Anna of Austria.
Hall of the KingsHall of the Kings
Sweeping through the Room of the Belt with its tile walls and its elaborate blue and gold ceiling, I was elated to peer through a screened partition to spy the Chapel, which was also accessible through the next hallway. This was the location where the kings and queens of the castle celebrated mass.
Room of the BeltRoom of the Belt
Chapel
Chapel
Finally, I ventured into the Weapons Room or Armory. The Alacazar had housed the armory of the House of Trastamara since old times and was the model of the collections of weapons that were finally collected into the Royal Armory of Madrid. Out of the back of the Weapons Room, there is a large terrace which offers views of the river below and the nearby Museo Real Casa de Moneda de Segovia and the Convento de San Juan de la Cruz.
Weapons Room
Weapons Room
Weapons Room
Following the signs, I retraced my steps to the front of the castle to climb the 152 steps of the tower of John II of Castile. The large panoramic terrace gave me outstanding views of the entire city and close up views of the construction of the towers and the castle. As I stared out upon the city, my inner princess reared her head and I felt that Sunday night Disney excitement. That inner princess suddenly felt as though she was staring out on her kingdom…one she was about to set foot back upon and thoroughly discover what it was all about!
Tower of John II of CastileTower of John II of Castile
View From Tower of John II of Castile
Tower of John II of Castile
Very inspiring.
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Address: Plaza Reina Victoria Eugenia, s/n, 40003 Segovia, Spain
Hours: October to March, 1000-1800 and April to September, 1000-1900. Closed December 25, January 1, January 6.
Admission: Adults, €5.00, Seniors €3.45. Citizens of the European Union can visit for free on Tuesdays from 1400-1600.
Getting There: Train, from Chamartin station in Madrid, http://www.renfre.com or http://www.thetrainline.com. By bus, from Moncloa metro station (Madrid), http://www.omio.com. After arriving in Segovia, bus #11 (2€) stops at the aqueduct and its about a 15-20 minute walk to the castle on the northwest side of the city.
There are exceptions to the rule, however. In Granada, the main square is the Bib Rambla, but the Plaza Mayors in Madrid and Salamanca are two of the most famous. Having visited Madrid’s main square many times, it was no surprise to find that Segovia, too, had a square by the same name and I could not pass up the chance to discover what made this one stand apart from the others that I had visited in the past.
As I made my way down Calle Real, one of the most famous streets in Segovia, I suddenly found myself in the heart of the city. This square, under the watchful eye of the city’s magnificent cathedral, boasts several other important buildings such as the Town Hall, the Juan Bravo Theater and the San Miguel Church. There is also a small bandstand located in the middle of the plaza where the occasional musicians pound out a tune and around which the Segovian people have social gatherings and festivities.
Cathedral of SegoviaTown Hall
Segovia’s Plaza Mayor was built in the 17th century as the center of the village where vendors set up their stands and citizens socialized and met. The Town Hall, (17th century), flanks the north side of the square and is the location of the majority of all Segovian events. The church of San Miguel, with its beautifully colored spire, was rebuilt in 1558 and was the location where Isabel was proclaimed Queen of Castile. I had been excited to visit this church with its Rubens painting and baroque altarpieces, however, due to the early hour, I found the door locked.
Church of San Miguel
The Juan Bravo Theater, one of the newer buildings that sit on the square, was constructed in 1917 and is used by both locals and tourists for various performances.
Juan Bravo Theater
This city square has changed names many times over the years. It was first called the Plaza Mayor upon its conception and then, during the Bourbon Restoration, Plaza de la Constitution. It was changed to Plaza de Franco after the Civil War and then changed again to its original name, Plaza Mayor at the end of Francisco Franco’s dictatorship.
As in the past, there are many outdoor cafes, shops arcades and hotels that surround the square and this is a place where you can spot many tourists who visit the city. Fiestas, such as the Frutos de Segovia, and the traditional fairs of San Juan held until the day of San Pedro on June 29 and participants can enjoy traditional fairs, folk walks, illuminations and fireworks.
It was much more of an open space than the Plaza Mayor in Madrid and extremely peaceful, especially during a day in winter, when the city is not filled with tourists seeking out its wonders. It was a mild February day when I was visiting, so I decided to sit outside and enjoy the comings and goings of the locals, while enjoying lunch and keeping an eye on the beauty of the Segovia Cathedral which was on my list of places to visit.
Ancient Segovians may have known this place by a different name, however, regardless of what alias this main plaza goes by, it can really only be known as one thing…
The heart of the city.
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Many European cities are filled with unique architecture and artwork.
Segovia is one of them.
There are cathedrals, castles, aqueducts, statues…you name it. A walk around the city is most certainly entertaining especially if you are an architecture aficionado.
When I first arrived in Segovia, I marveled at the beautiful aqueduct that sprawls across the main square, but knowing that there was much to explore, I headed deep into the city. Aiming for the city’s center, the Plaza Mayor, there was, however, a building that caught my attention, along the way.
Casa de los Picos.
The House of the Spikes.
A short walk from the famed aqueduct, I found myself on Calle Juan Bravo standing in front of a building with a most unique facade!
Built during the end of the fifteenth century in the Renaissance style, its first owner was Pedro Lopez de Ayala, the Count of Fuensalida. Left to his son, Pedro, upon his death, the house was then sold to Juan de la Hoz, a Segovian councilman. After the acquisition, de la Hoz began the transformation that made the facade what you see today.
There are 360 granite, spike-like blocks which cover the facade forming pyramid-shaped reliefs…a type of style that was common during the middle ages. As I studied the building, I was convinced that it was a fortress of some kind but learned that although it mostly operated as a residence, it changed ownership over the years many times and finally transferred to the Ministry of Education in the 1970’s. Today, it functions as a museum and exhibition center and is part of the School of the Applied Arts and Crafts.
Even if it is not a fortress, I thought it interesting to find that the house once belonged to the executioner of the city and that legend states that under one of the peaks, a treasure is hidden! I would have loved to hang around and take a look, but it was not open at the time!
Opening hours are extremely limited and although there is not much to see unless exhibitions are being held, it might be interesting to see the patio which is considered to be the highlight of the structure. Built in the Renaissance style, it is a small space with porticos on three sides with five limestone columns, three at its midpoint and two at small angles and decorated with Talavera tiles that depict the most important monuments of Segovia.
Even if you do not have much time while in Segovia to actually visit the interior, make sure that your path through the city leads you in front of this unparalleled house of spikes!
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When you want to take a day trip from Madrid, there are many options.
Toledo. Pedraza. Consuegra. Valladolid. Segovia (to name just a few…)
The last one intrigued me. When I was last visiting with a friend, who is from Madrid, she talked a lot about Segovia and its aqueduct.
This, I had to see!
Rising early, I headed by metro to Chamartin train station. It was fairly easy to purchase my ticket and find my gate and train. A short, thirty minutes later, I was arriving in Segovia. Making my way to the front of the train station, I found bus #11, which was how I had planned to reach the city center and the famed aqueduct.
The bus ride was quick but the city scapes that we drove past were uninspiring, leaving me to wonder for a split second if I had made the wrong decision by traveling here. But, then, in the distance, there it was.
The aqueduct and the old city set up on a hill.
Jumping out of the bus, I could not contain my excitement, gazing up at the ancient Roman aqueduct, built almost 2000 years ago, the city’s most important architectural landmark. Snapping photo after photo, I finally made my way out of the traffic circle and walked along the length of the beautiful structure. One of the best preserved Roman aqueducts in the world, it has become an icon and one of the main attractions that lures visitors to the city. Covering a distance of 17 km, reaching a height of 92 feet (at its highest point) and containing 167 arches, this feat of age-old engineering was used to transport water from the Fuenfria spring to Segovia. The most amazing part of this venerable structure is that it defies the laws of gravity, standing on its own, with no kind of mortar used in its construction.
An interesting legend about Segovia’s Aqueduct is that it was the result of a pact between a girl and the devil in which she offered him her soul in exchange for water to reach her house before the crack of dawn! That devil must have been a talented engineer!
The aqueduct stretches down Calle de Ruiz de Alba and as I left the Plaza del Azoguejo to follow it’s footprint, I got my first glances of the city’s homes, businesses and other architectural features. Returning to the plaza, there were many tourists admiring the city’s coat of arms and a statue of the Blessed Virgin, housed in a niche the upper reaches of the aqueduct. There are two niches still visible, one on each side. The one housing the Virgin de la Fuenclisla, once held an image of Hercules, the purported founder of the city and the other, once held a statue of Saint Stephen. It is interesting to note that on the fourth day of December each year, the day of Saint Barbara, the patron saint of artillery, the local military drapes the image of the Virgen in a flag.
For those that are interested in learning more about the aqueduct, an interpretation center is housed in Segovia’s former mint, Real Casa de Moneda. The exhibit explains the connection between the mint and the aqueduct in that coins minted in Segovia used the aqueduct as a mint mark.
Finally, after soaking it all in, I climbed the stairs alongside the aqueduct, pausing for one long last look, before making my way into the historic part of the city.
What a site!
When my breath catches in my throat, I know that I am looking at something truly remarkable! This was one of the most amazing pieces of architecture and if this was the opening bid, what else was I going to find in this stunning city?
I couldn’t wait!
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The dance between bull and matador, in a ring surrounded by thousands of cheering spectators, is a sport of the ages.
Olé!
The dance floor that this spectacle takes place on is within a bullring of which there are many.
The most prestigious bullring in the world, Plaza de Toros Las Ventas, can be located in Madrid, Spain. Completed in 1929 and inaugurated in 1931, it was designed in the Moorish style by architect José Espeliú after the determination that the former main bullring at the Carratera de Aragon was not sufficient to seat the crowds usually in attendance.
Today, it is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the city, inviting millions of visitors each year to explore the venue when the excitement of the sport is not at its height. With a seating capacity of just over 23,000, it is the largest arena in Spain and the third largest in the the world. It is also extremely popular with local and visiting bullfighting enthusiasts during the bullfighting season.
My experiences with Las Ventas date back many years. My interest in attending a bullfight was piqued when I spotted a poster while sightseeing within the city on my first visit. Heading there that evening, I found it to be quite the spectator sport, full of breath holding excitement! A few years later, remembering the event, I took my son to the Las Ventas to see the iconic arena and to visit the Bullfight Museum. Trying on costumes and seeing the arena from the inside gave him an idea of what it might be like to experience the unique tradition. Another few years passed and I headed once more to the arena, with friends, to see another bullfight. This one was quite memorable with the bull jumping the fence and the patrons scattering!
When I found myself back in Madrid recently, I decided that a trip back to Las Ventas to visit the museum would be a stimulating way to fill the afternoon. It is always awe-inspiring to see this beautiful arena up close after emerging from the neighboring metro station, and set against a bright blue sky, this time was no exception. Of course, on a day when a bullfight is scheduled to take place, the place exudes excitement and is filled with hordes of people, anxious to enter and see the spectacle, but without the crowds, it makes it easier to appreciate the building itself and the beautiful statues, honoring the art of bullfighting which grace the premises.
Though this day was a quiet one for the arena, I was excited to visit the museum once again. After paying my entrance fee, I was given an audio guide which would assist me on my exploration.
Starting at the Puerta Grande (Door of Triumph, also called the Gate of Madrid), I gazed upward at the keyhole entryway, the place where all bullfighters dream of exiting while being carried on the shoulders of their adoring fans. In the vestibule, there is a replica of the inaugural poster dating back to 1931 which marked the occasion when eight matadors took part in the first bullfight of Las Ventas on June 16 as well as plaques commemorating the great matadors and patrons of the sport.
Mounting the stairway, I made my way to the upper levels of the arena offering close and personal looks of bulls preserved by taxidermy. Standing next to these monstrous beasts, bereft of life, it is quite difficult to imagine yourself in the ring alongside the living, snorting, stomping, angry being that is anxious to impale you with its razor-sharp horns and trample your body until it is a mangled mess.
Stepping out onto the terrace, I was offered a great perspective of the plaza surrounding Las Ventas, but the best views are achieved by turning and setting your eyes upon the building itself. It is here that those most interested in the architectural details of the building can get an intimate look as well as come to grab a breath of fresh air, take a quick smoke or steal a bit of time with their loved one.
My audio guide then led me into the main arena, the area where the all of the action takes place. Walking through these portals, I remembered the first time I ever entered, seeing the dance floor of the bull and matador and scouring the hot afternoon for my assigned seat, which was purchased without any knowledge of where I would be sitting. The seats in the circular arena are characterized by how close or how far they are to the action and by three very important things if you are seeing a fight during the afternoon…shade (sombra), semi-shade (sol y sombra) and sun (sol). You can imagine, that without any purchasing knowledge I did not end up, in the shade. At first, I was relieved to find that I was in a semi-shade seat. For a while, I was in the shade, but as the sun made its way across the Spanish sky, it went in the direction other than where I wanted, making my seat a sun seat! With my entertainment, I also got a sunburn!
This time around, I was here for an architectural experience, but as I stepped into the space, I discovered that the usually impressive view was obscured by a large domed tent sitting in the middle of the ring. I guess there was a concert or event that was going to be held here, but it was quite disappointing to have the usual spectacular view thwarted by this plexiglass eyesore.
Nevertheless, I made my way around the seating area, checking out the Royal Box with its Mudéjar architecture, the clock on the other side of the ring and the ring’s five gates and the ones where the bulls enter the area, called the toriles. Making my way through these gates, I was able to see where the bulls are watered and housed prior to the fight as well as the infirmary. It was also here that I encountered a Virtual game which puts the participant in the ring with a bull. After watching two gentlemen enjoy the fabricated interaction, I decided that I needed to don the goggles and see what this was all about. I have to admit, this bull charging me was so lifelike, I really wanted to run!
Moving on, it must have been my religious side and love of churches that led me to the chapel. Next to the bullring, this is the most significant part of Las Ventas for a bullfighter. Though quite small, it is where the matador mentally prepares and prays for his well being during his upcoming challenge. This Baroque, historic place of worship is dedicated to the Virgen de la Paloma, the patron of Madrid and the Virgin of Guadelupe, the patron of Mexico.
Finally, I made my way into the museum which offers a large collection of paintings, busts and matador clothing items. The best part, however, was when I was leaving. The gentleman at the front desk, who took audio-guide, offered to give me a poster which I graciously accepted. In fact, I shamelessly asked him for another for my son who had visited before. He gave me not one more, but two more! After taking a minute to open it, I learned that it was an old bullfight poster, marking an important fight during the previous season.
Doesn’t every wall need a bullfight poster?
Mine does.
Olé!
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Hours: January to June, October to December, 1000-1800, July to September, 1000-1900, daily. Days of bullfights, tours close three hours before the start of the bullfights. Closed December 25 and January 1. Ticket office, opening Days: 1000-1400, 1700-2000. Bullfight Day: Uninterruptedly from 1000 until the start of the bullfight.
Admission: Adults, €14.90, Students and Retirees, €11.90, Reduced Price (Children under 12 years old), €5.90, Children under 5 years, free. The ticket includes the Bullring, Museum and the Virtual Reality Experiences. An audio-guide is included and available in 10 different languages (Spanish, English, French, Italian, German, Portuguese, Japanese, Korean, Russian and Chinese).
There are some amazing places in Barcelona to get beautiful views of the city.
The Montjuic Castle, the sight of an old military fortress, was a place I had been vowing to visit on one of my trips to Barcelona, yet, I just hadn’t been there with a day clear enough to take advantage of its orientation high above the city and the fantastic views it offered.
Starting my journey, I ventured out to the Plaza d’Espana metro station so that I could walk up the steps to the Museum of National Art of Catalonia and get a bit of exercise. The views here are also incredible as is the architecture and the Magic Fountain which can be seen in all its glory during operating hours (see schedule below).
Passing the gardens along Passeig de Santa Madrona, I made my way to the Avinguda de L’Estadi and the Telefèric de Montjuïc . Always looking for a fun way to travel, I assumed that the telefèric would be an amazing way to get up to the castle…and to be honest, I was quite tired!
Thrilled to find no line, I was able to secure my own cable car, allowing for optimum photographic opportunities. However, with the car being so light and the wind so strong, the swinging of the car from side to side was a bit daunting as we made the final stretch of the journey to the castle.
Stepping out of the telefèric station, I was happy to find the castle’s location right alongside, providing some instant photographic gratification.
Heading to the front of the castle, I found it to be much larger than I had anticipated and I admired the four bastions at each corner of the curtain wall. Crossing the bridge to the castle, which traversed the Santa Eulàlia Moat, I discovered it to be no longer filled with water, but with beautiful flowers and grassy areas.
Purchasing my ticket, I ventured onto the castle’s sea wall. There are many pieces of artillery and sculpture and entryways to the castle’s dungeon, but the most stunning is the 360º views of the port, the Mediterranean, the coastline and the area of Baix Llobregat.
Making my way around the castle I admired the architecture and the landscaping, eyeing the fruit trees at the rear of the property which made me realize how hungry I was, thinking maybe I would have to check out the cafe.
Entering the interior courtyard of the castle, the parade grounds, I ventured through the passageways, enjoying the displays at the rear of the castle highlighting the Mountain of Barcelona and how its position in the city has affected historical events, the Prison and Memory of Barcelona which tells about the castle’s history as a military prison and an exhibit which details The Search of Freedom.
Finally making my way to the terrace, the highest point of the castle, I took in the amazing views of Barcelona, Montjuïc Hill and the castle itself. On the roof, above the entrance, standing tall, is the square watchtower that signaled the arrival of ships through a system of sails during the day and bonfires at night. On the tower’s eastern and western facades, there are two sundials, dating back to 1777, which once was responsible for giving the time in the morning (eastern facing) and for the afternoon (western facing). A plaque on the base of the tower describes the tower as the location where the French astronomer Pierre Méchain obtained the geographical coordinates of Barcelona in 1792 and 1793 and established the trig point that would serve to measure the meridian from Dunkirk. The length of this meridian, linking Barcelona, Paris and Dunkirk, was used as the basis of the metric system.
From a sign posted near the tower, I learned that tours of the watchtower are conducted three to four times a day in both English and Catalan. Since I had missed the tour times, I had to content myself with enjoying the views from the outside. Making a mental note of the tour times, I decided that it would be important to plan the next visit according to the times posted, as I discovered that the guide also takes you down to the dungeons where extensive graffiti has been uncovered, made by those were imprisoned there during different stages of the building’s history.
As I headed back to towards the parade grounds, I located the cafe and eyed the sweet offerings in its showcase. Since it was later in the day, I decided to save my appetite for dinner and enjoy a cold beer in the courtyard instead. It was an amazing end to my day, soaking up both the architectural history and the warm afternoon sun.
As the afternoon came to a close, I wandered back the way I had come, to the telefèric station. Once again, I was able to secure a cable car for myself, only this time, the city was aglow in the light of the setting sun.
After exploring such a beautiful historical setting, I couldn’t image more of a magical ending to a fantastic day. So amazing to be soaring high above the amazing city of Barcelona!
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Address: Ctra. de Montjuïc, 66, 08038 Barcelona, Spain
Hours: March 1 until November 1, 1000-2000, daily. November 2 until February 28, 1000-1800, daily. Closed December 25 and January 1.
Admission: Standard admission, 5€, Reduced admission, 3€. Free admission on the first Sunday of the month and Sundays after 1500. Guided tours lasting 1 hour are offered at 1100 and 1500 each day and let visitors discover places within the castle not normally open to the public. Tours, 4€
Getting There: By foot. The walk uphill to Montjuïc Castle from the top of the funicular (lower station, Paral.lel, metro lines 2 and 3), adjacent to the cable car station, takes about 20 to 25 minutes. By public transportation. Bus, line 150, origin Avinguda de la reina Maria Cristina, terminus Montjuïc Castle. Bus 150 goes round Montjuïc Hill before finally reaching the Castle. The ride from Plaça d’Espanya takes about 20 minutes. The descent from the Castle to the beginning of the line also takes 20 minutes. Bus 150 also connects with the Telefèric de Montjuïc at the bus stop Avinguda de Miramar-Estació del Funicular. The cable car service begins in Avinguda Miramar and leaves visitors in front of the Castle. It has three stops, the first in Avinguda Miramar, one in the middle in the Plaça de la Sardana, and one in front of the Castle. The price of the cable car does not include admission to the Castle. By car. If you arrive by private vehicle, there is a large public car park near the castle on Carrer dels Tarongers.
Hours: November 1 until January 6, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2000-2100, music and color, 2000 and 2030. January 7 until February 28, closed for maintenance. March 1 until March 31, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2000-2100, music and color, 2000 and 2030. April 1 until May 31, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2100-2200, music and color, 2100 and 2130. June 1 until September 30, Wednesday to Sunday, 2130-2230, music and color, 2130 and 2200. October 1 until October 31, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2100-2200, music and color, 2100 and 2130.
While walking in the La Latina neighborhood of Madrid, a glance at my map offered up an icon illustrating a point of interest.
Viaducto de Segovia.
Since I was headed in that general direction, I thought I would check it out.
I won’t lie. I saw the word viaduct and the picture in my head was of something I would see in Rome. Old…brick…arches. And don’t forget the boatloads of tourists milling about taking pictures.
What I found instead was more of a modern structure…a bridge spanning Segovia Street, 25 meters below, thus giving it its name.
Segovia Street lies in the basin formed by the old San Pedro Creek which was one of the most important routes of entry from Segovia into Madrid many centuries ago. At the time, Bailén Street ended at the edge of the ravine and pedestrians were forced to make the steep descent and ascent from Segovia Street to reach the area of the Royal Palace of Madrid.
When the Royal Court was established in 1561, King Philip began to promote the expansion of the city. He visualized extending Bailén Street across the ravine to allow easy travel to other parts of the city and country.
Although the architect of the Royal Palace, Juan Bautista Sacchetti, conceived a plan to build a span, lack of funding put the proposal on the back-burner until 1874, when a structure made of wood and iron was completed. This structure remained until 1932 when architects Ferrero, Aracil and Aldaz created plans for a concrete structure. Taking only two years to complete, this bridge sustained damage during the Spanish Civil War in the Seige of Madrid, but was repaired in 1942.
Though a plan was put into place in the later part of the 1970’s, to demolish the bridge, a decision was finally made to restore it instead. Today’s construction is a result of that restoration, which allowed for the increase of its height and span and more importantly, the increasing traffic loads and capacity.
Today, the Viaducto de Segovia is not a main tourist attraction, but one that tourists merely “happen” upon due to its proximity to the Cathedral de la Almudena and the Royal Palace of Madrid. It is quite famous, not only for having been featured in many literary works and Spanish cinema, but for a reason most do not like to talk about. Until 1998, it was the site of countless suicides, thus being dubbed “the suicide bridge”. Recognizing the ease of access pedestrians had over the low edges, authorities finally erected transparent screens to prevent further attempts.
If you find yourself in the area, take a walk across the bridge on the pedestrian lanes for a beautiful view of the Casa de Campo and the lake. When heading south, take the stairs on the left hand side to venture down to Segovia Street for a more intimate view of the bridge’s structure.
It truly is an architectural marvel and a piece of Madrid’s developmental history.
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One of the things I love about European cities is their public squares.
At any hour of the day, you can find people sitting on the benches, relaxing, talking and watching their children play. They are also the perfect meeting points for those coming together from various points in the city.
Many of these squares have beautiful fountains and artwork and are attractive to tourists for their outdoor cafes, perfect for people watching.
My favorite square in Madrid, is the Plaza Mayor. One of the first places I ever visited years ago, I still love it’s warm medieval ambiance, the many restaurants that spill into the plaza, the performers and the multitude of traditional artists that come each day and night to sell their wares. As proof, many of their paintings grace the walls of my home.
Plaza MayorStreet Performers
In the heart of Madrid, the Plaza Mayor was first built during the Hapsburg period of Philip III’s reign in the 15th century, just down the road from another famous plaza, Puerta del Sol. It was originally named, Plaza del Arrabal and used as the main market. After the plaza’s transferral to the city of Madrid in 1561, renovations resulted and after three major fires in its history, what you see today can be credited to architect Juan de Villanueva who lowered the surrounding buildings, closed the corners and created large entrances to the square.
Measuring 423 feet by 308 feet, the square contains 237 balconies, nine gates and a statue of Philip III on a horse in the center. In the past, executions and bullfights were once held here, but today, its major (and much milder) events include the annual Christmas market and on Sunday mornings, a stamp collecting and coin collecting market.
Plaza Mayor Gate
Statue of Philip III
Next to the Plaza Mayor, on Arco de Cuchillero Street, is something that should not be missed on a visit to Madrid. The Restaurante Botin, one of my favorites, which is the oldest restaurant in the world and offers some affordable and delectable culinary delights.
Another spot that people meet in Madrid is close by…Puerta del Sol. Not only a meeting spot now, but a popular location in the past.
Between the 17th and 19th centuries, the Puerta del Sol’s Post Office was the destination for couriers coming from other areas of Spain. Residents, eager for the latest news, would congregate in the hopes of gleaning what they could from the couriers and each other.
The square originated as one of the gates in the city wall that once surrounded Madrid in the 15th century. The name of the gate, which faced east, came from the rising sun which decorated the entry. Today, there is no trace of the ancient wall or the gate, but there are other landmarks that many descend upon the area to see.
The former House of the Post Office, by Jacques Marquet was completed in 1768, now houses the seat of the Presidency of the Madrid Community. Situated across the street from the square, you can also find Kilometer Zero embedded in the sidewalk just under the building’s clock tower. This monumental slab marks the point from which the distances of Spain’s national roads are measured and specifically the starting point for measuring the distances of the country’s six national roads. It is also the starting point for Madrid’s numbered streets. The closer to the kilometer mark 0, the lower the street number.
Old Post Office
Kilometer Zero Plaque
Within the square, you can find a mounted statue of Charles III of Spain (El Rey Alcalde, the mayor-king) who is honored here for the extensive public works he set in motion.
Statue of Charles III
Another famous statue is The Bear and the Strawberry Tree (el Osso y el Madroño) which is the symbol of Madrid. I will always remember this statue as once I was instructed to meet someone there, not knowing it had been moved (in 2009) from the north side at the entrance to Calle del Carmen. Needless to say, I couldn’t find it and my name was mud with the person the next day!
The Bear and the Strawberry Tree
Another interesting statue found in the square is the Mariblanca. This statue is a copy, possibly of the famous Venus de Milo and marks the place of a former fountain displaying that figure.
My favorite thing in the square, however, can be found high overhead. The Tío Pepe lighted sign is located above the square’s former Paris Hotel. After a three year absence for renovation of the building, the sign, was returned to its original location in 2014. Tío Pepe (Spanish for Uncle Joe) has been greeting visitors to Puerta del Sol, since 1938, while enticing them to try the famous brand of Sherry.
Tio Pepe Sign
Puerta del Sol has been the site of many demonstrations over the years, but mainly attracts visitors for its shopping, restaurants and sites. Not to be missed, if you find yourself traveling through the city on Madrid’s extensive metro and are passing through Sol, jump on out and check it out.
Just recently, I had the pleasure to stay near the Plaza de España. This beautiful square exhibits more of a park like feel and is extremely peaceful, though still located in an extremely urban area.
Located at the intersection of Grand Vía and Princesa streets, there is a large number of hotels, shopping and restaurants located nearby as well as the Royal Palace.
Despite the many attractions located in this area, however, many people come to Plaza España to see the Cervantes Monument, sculpted by Rafael Martínez Zapatero and Lorenzo Cullaut Valera. Commissioned by King Alfonso XIII on the anniversary of the publication of the second part of Don Quixote, the main part of the fountain with the figures of Don Quixote and his squire Sancho Panzo was erected in the 1920’s but not fully completed until the 1960’s when the sculptures of Aldonza and Dulcinea were added on the side.
Cervantes MonumentCervantes Monument, rear
Two architecturally important buildings flank the square, Torre Madrid and Edificio Espana, two of the tallest buildings in Madrid, thrilling those impressed by progress. For those, however, who want to enjoy nature, Plaza España offers shaded and wooded areas, a fountain and pond and seasonal landscaping.
Torre Madrid and Edificio Espana
After a long walk, I grabbed a seat opposite the monument to rest and enjoy the view. Glancing at my watch, I noticed it to be almost five, the time I had planned to meet a friend here. After my long walk from Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor, my feet were enjoying the respite and my eyes were enjoying the natural and architectural gems set before me.
Maybe I should have made it five-thirty…
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Walking through one of the busiest and well known places in Madrid, the Puerta del Sol, I noticed a crowd of people across the street.
They were all looking down.
Being of a curious mind, I needed to see why.
In front of the old Post Office building, under the clock tower, a slab is embedded in the concrete sidewalk.
Kilometer Zero.
This stone slab marks the point from which the distances of Spain’s national roads are measured and specifically the starting point for measuring the distances of the country’s six national roads. It is also the starting point for Madrid’s numbered streets. The closer to the kilometer mark 0, the lower the street number.
If you’ve ever heard the saying, “all roads lead to Rome”, this type of marker explains why as many countries used these type of traditional markers, most commonly in their capital cities, with the most famous marker being the “Golden Milestone” in Ancient Rome.
The Madrid marker was originally placed in this location in 1950 and replaced with newer stones in 2002 and 2009, however with the replacement in 2002, it was turned the wrong direction, but corrected in 2009.
Today, it attracts thousands of tourists and tour groups who come to see where travel begins.
If you are in the historic Puerta del Sol, challenge yourself to find Kilometer Zero.
It won’t be that hard…just look for a group of people looking down!
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