Religious Institutions – Page 10

Church Overload

One more church? Uphill?

No thanks.

Not wanting to make the uphill journey to San Cristobal, the final church on our Religious Ticket, a compromise was made to visit Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús, located in the Plaza de Armas instead…especially when we found out that admission was free on that day.

Of course, I had come to expect the No Photos rule by this time, and I was getting a little tired of seeing so many churches. (Yes, I actually said this!)

But…free is free.

This massive church, commissioned by the Jesuits in 1571 and constructed in 1576, offers one of the best examples of Spanish Baroque architecture in Peru. Competing effectively with the Cathedral on the northeast side of the plaza, the church has two bell towers and is connected to the Jesuit’s University of San Ignacia de Loyola.

Though construction was begun in 1576, on the grounds of the palace of the Inca Huayna Capac, the church was badly damaged in the earthquake of 1650. The present day building was finally completed, 18 years later, in 1668.

Some of the most notable pieces and features of the church include a painting of the Transfiguration of Christ at the high altar by Jesuit Diego de la Puente and a painting depicting the wedding of artín García de Loyola, the nephew of Ignatius Loyola with Beatriz (great-niece of the Inca ruler Tupac Amaru). In the Sacristy are sculptures by Melchor Huaman Mayta of the saints San Jeronimo and San Francisco.

What I enjoyed the most, however, were the two towers. Though the ascent was slow, allowing for the descent of other visitors on the narrow stairway, it was worth the steep climb, for the views looking out over the Plaza and the adjacent Cathedral. You can also access the balcony from the left tower which allows visibility of the church’s interior.

If you have a few minutes, duck in for a quick look at this historical church…the access to the towers is absolutely worth your time!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús

Address: Plaza de Armas, Cusco, Peru
Hours: 0900-1130 and 1300-1730, daily
Admission: S/ 15

Time To Make the Climb!

At some point during your visit to Cusco, you are bound to make the steep climb up the ancient Incan Road, Hathunrumiyoc (Quechua for great stone street”) and believe me, it is steep!

Passing the Archbishop’s Museum and the 12 angled stone set into the ancient perimeter wall, you will be huffing and puffing when you make it to the Plazoleta San Blas.

Or maybe that was just me…still unaccustomed to Cusco’s high elevation.

So why make the trip?

The area is quite unique and filled with boutiques, restaurants and of course…a church. A small church. An ancient church.

The Templo San Blas.

Built in 1544, the primitive chapel was constructed on the site of an old Inca temple dedicated to Illapa, the god of thunder and lightning. Set in the oldest parish of Cusco, the church, built by Viceroy Francisco Toledo, was originally built with mud bricks, but was reconstructed with stone walls after the earthquake of 1950.

An earlier earthquake also played a pivotal role in the church’s history. About a hundred years after its erection, an earthquake shook the city and the old neighborhood of T’oqokachi. Once the church had been rebuilt and restored, it became an important temple and began to be decorated with extravagant and important artwork.

The collection of paintings exhibited in the church include one displaying the Life and Miracles of San Blas by artist Fabian Perez de Medina and a canvas of the resurrection of Lazarus, by Master Diego Quispe Tito. It’s greatest attraction, however, is the beautifully intricate pulpit carved of Cusquenian cedar, known worldwide. One legend has it that it was made by a local man who who miraculously healed from leprosy, another suggests that it was created by famous Quechua woodcarvers, and still, it is also thought to have been created by either Diego Quispe Tito or
Juan Tomas Tuyru Tupac.

As we entered the simple looking church, our tickets were validated and we entered, not expecting to see much. What a surprise was in store for us!

As was becoming the norm, no photographs were allowed and someone was actively walking throughout the church watching our actions. If only I could have captured the beauty that was laid forth before us in greater detail. Trying to slyly snap a couple of photographs of the amazing altar and the pulpit, I was reprimanded by the guard…though I was successful. A bit embarrassed, we decided to head up to the bell tower where we were able to take photographs of the plaza beneath us and of the tower and bell. The views from here were spectacular in the beautiful afternoon.

Once we descended from the bell tower, the church had gained more visitors, but we were still unable to capture more photos.

While the church is included in the Religious Ticket, it is worth the price of single admission because of its rich history, amazing interior and views! Take the time…make the climb! Up the hill and to the belltower!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe, and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Templo San Blas

Address: Plazoleta San Blas, Cusco, Peru
Hours: Monday to Saturday, 0800-1800, Sunday, 1000-1800
Admission: Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US). Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US). Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).

Once Upon A Palace

The palace of Inca Roca.

Ever hear of it?

Perhaps if you lived during Incan times.

Today, the Inca Roca palace is known as the Archbishop’s Palace or The Religious Art Museum.

Located a short distance from Plaza de Armas, on the famous Hatunrumiyoc Street, the museum is located on the site which was once the home of the Marquis of San Juan de Buenavista and later the Archbishop of Cusco. Transformed into a museum in the 1960s, the site attracts thousands of visitors interested in the both the Colonial and Moorish architecture of the building as well as the religious artifacts housed in the museum. Dedicated to 17th and 18th century religious art by important Peruvian and Andean artists, the main draw for many visitors, however, is the historic palace setting.

As we walked up the street, we noticed many people taking pictures near the stone perimeter wall of the museum. We learned that one particular stone interested them, “The Stone of 12 Angles” an archaeological artifact, considered to be a national heritage object.

After validating our Religious Ticket, we entered the museum first, noticing (again) not only the NO PHOTOS sign, but the cloistered Renaissance courtyard, decorated with a tranquil fountain, stone arches and walls decorated with blue and white tiles. Many visitors were sitting here enjoying a quiet moment away from the busy streets of Cusco.

Surrounding the courtyard, inside the classical mansion, are a series of corridors filled with colonial furniture, chapels and important works of masters of Andean painting, including Juan Zapata. There are many valuable religious masterpieces such as a painting of Christ’s crucifixion by Alonso Cano, entitled Granada and paintings by the Cusqueno Marcos Zapata, one Ayacuchana painting and a Quitena painting.

An important relic, a small organ of two processing refined bellows occupies one of the smaller rooms. This organ was the first ever to come to Peru for the cathedral.

The architecture is exceptional with a door in arabesque style, doorways in the Moorish style, carved cedar ceilings and spectacular stained-glass windows and a beautiful gold-filled chapel.

The one thing that we noticed, however, was the lack of information displayed on what we were seeing. Much of what we gleaned from our visit was from a bit of research later.

The museum was small, but interesting to see…rather enjoyable having another location to discover something new about Cusco’s history and to occupy some time during our day. Not sure if I would have sought it out on my own, but worth the time since it was included in our Religious ticket and a plus for those interested in architectural styles.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Museum of Religious Art

Address: Located on the corner of Hatunrumiyoq Street and Herrajes street.
Hours: 0800-1800, daily.
Admission: Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US). Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US). Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating three other churches ), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US). Also included with the Cusco Tourist Ticket.

Cathedral of Cusco (Basilica Cathedral of the Virgin of Asuncion)

Address: Plaza de Armas
Hours: 1000 to 1800, daily.
Admission: Adult, S /. 25.00 (about $7.38 US). Student: S /. 12.50 (about $3.70 US). Admission also with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).

Templo San Blas

Address: Plazoleta de San Blas, Cusco
Hours: 1000-1800, daily
Admission: Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US). Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US). Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).

Church of San Cristobal

Address: Avenue Don Bosco
Hours: 1000-1800, daily
Admission: Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US). Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US). Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).

The Cathedral of Cusco

There is no shortage of churches in Cusco.

In fact, with so many in such close proximity, it is possible to fill your day with a self-guided walking tour, hitting on some of the major temples, beginning with Iglesia de Santo Domingo on Calle Santo Domingo, heading to Plaza de Armas to visit Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus, Iglesia del Triunfo, La Catedral, Iglesia de Jesus Maria, on to Iglesia de Santa Teresa and Iglesia de la Merced, a block away, and then Iglesia de San Francisco, Iglesia de Santa Clara and Iglesia de San Pedro a short stroll from the plaza.

These churches, some dating back to the mid 1500’s, offer spectacular insight on both the Inca and Spanish colonial cultures.

The Cathedral of Cusco (Basilica Cathedral of the Virgin of Asuncion), dominates the Plaza de Armas and I was anxious to visit this massive structure. Finding that a ticket (the Boleto Religioso) could be purchased that offers admission to not only the cathedral, but to two other churches, Templo San Blas and the Church of San Cristobal and the Museum of Religious Art, I decided that this would be a great way to not only see some of the amazing religious sites of Cusco, but some of the parts of the city in between.

Long before the Cathedral stood on its present location, the Kiswarkancha stood in the main square. Built by the Incas, the Kiswarkancha was the palace of Viracocha, the ruler of the Kingdom of Cusco. As the Spanish conquistadors arrived, however, they made the decision to demolish the palace and build a cathedral on the site, in order to wipe out the Inca religion and promote the spread of Christianity.

Lasting for almost a century, construction began in 1559 and was completed by utilizing an involuntary Incan workforce. Most of the stones used in the construction was taken from Sacsayhuaman, again with the idea of desecrating another of the Inca’s religious sites. Once the Spaniards learned that the sand located on the building site was also considered holy, they demanded that it be used in the mortar.

Standing before this mighty structure, flanked by its two solid towers and sidled by the Iglesia del Triunfo and Church of Jesus, Mary and Joseph, it’s easy to forget its sordid beginnings.

As we entered and paid our admission, once again, I noticed that photography was not allowed. No…not even without a flash.

After we began our self-guided tour and began to see the unimaginable beauty presented in this “Mother Church”, I was even more disappointed about the No Photography rule.

The sprawling cathedral has eleven chapels, one vestry, one chapter house, seven altarpieces, one choir, over three hundred paintings, various carvings and sculptures. Offering characteristics of Gothic, Renaissance, Mannerist and Baroque architecture, from start to finish, the artistic detail offered in every nook and cranny is a feast for the eye. Baroque, Neoclassical and Renaissance details are displayed on the two altars and magnificent woodworking is displayed on the pulpits and choir stalls. Of the two altars, the original lambran (alder-tree) is located at the back and the neoclassical embossed silver altar in front, which is currently used.

The sacristy, one of the most decorated parts of the cathedral, displays a large collection of 18th paintings by Marcos Zapata, including his version of the Last Supper which presents the main dish of roast guinea pig, and portraits of Cusco’s bishops, beginning with Vicente de Valverde, the first resident bishop of Cusco who accompanied Francisco Pizarro on his conquests. A large, dark painting of the crucifixion, is also presented here, thought to be painted by either Dutch artist, Anthony van Dyck or Spanish artist Alonso Cano. Other important paintings by Basilio Santa Cruz Pumacallo and Basilio Pacheco can also be seen in the cathedral as well as the oldest surviving painting in Cusco, depicting the the ancient city during the 1650 earthquake where the townspeople are seen carrying a crucifix in the Plaza de Armas, praying for the natural disaster to end. Diego Quispe Tito’s Christ’s 12 Parables is particularly noteworthy as this incomplete collection depicts the twelve months and zodiac symbols of the year, incorporating the parables of Jesus into the pictures.

A most intriguing relic is the wooden crucifix, the Black Christ, discolored from centuries of smoke and dust emitted from burning candles. When the cathedral was restored in the 1990s, the crucifix was not cleaned. Every year, during the Lord of Miracles Procession during Holy Week, the crucifix is taken outdoors to commemorate the earthquake of 1650.

Another spectacular piece, which can be spied from the outside, in the north tower, is the famous Maria Angola bell. Weighing over 13,000 pounds and standing just over seven feet, the bell, cast in 1659 was named, according to local tradition, after an Angolan slave who threw gold into the crucible where the bell was being made. Now cracked, it is only rung on special occasions and can be heard reportedly from more than 20 miles away.

The cathedral attracts thousands of visitors each year and includes a visit to the adjoining Church of Triumph (Iglesia del Triunfo) which was built in 1538, three years after the conquistadors settled in Cusco. The statue of St. James, slaying an Inca, sits atop the church as a tribute to the belief that this patron saint of Spain played a major role in the Spanish miraculously driving back the Incas during a siege from 1533 and 1536.

Also attached to the church, and included in the visit to the cathedral, is the Church of Jesus, Mary and Joseph, a great place to see the art work of colonial Peruvian Inca artists.

Walking slowly throughout the premises, we attempted to soak in as much of the amazing craftsmanship as we could while I took an occasional photo on the sly. Be wary, however, there are cameras located throughout the church and workers who are not easily identifiable will ask you to put away your phone or camera. Though I was only caught once, I can not say for sure whether or not a guest would be asked to leave for continuing to disobey the rule.

Whether or not churches are of interest to you, make sure to put the Cathedral on your agenda during your visit to Cusco, as well as the other churches and museum included with the combination ticket. With a museum-like quality, you will surely be fascinated by not only its history, but by the intriguing architecture, craftsmanship and artwork on display here.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Cathedral of Cusco (Basilica Cathedral of the Virgin of Asuncion)

Address: Plaza de Armas
Hours: 1000 to 1800, daily.
Admission: Adult, S /. 25.00 (about $7.38 US). Student: S /. 12.50 (about $3.70 US). Admission also with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).

Museum of Religious Art

Address: Located on the corner of Hatunrumiyoq Street and Herrajes street.
Hours: 0800-1800, daily.
Admission: Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US). Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US). Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating three other churches ), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US). Also included with the Cusco Tourist Ticket.

Templo San Blas

Address: Plazoleta de San Blas, Cusco
Hours: 1000-1800, daily
Admission: Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US). Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US). Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).

Church of San Cristobal

Address: Avenue Don Bosco
Hours: 1000-1800, daily
Admission: Adult, S /. 15.00 (about $4.45 US). Student: S /. 7.50 (about $2.20 US). Admission with the Religious Ticket (also incorporating two other churches and museum), S /. 30.00 (about $10.50 US).

Bernini’s Perfect Work

Don’t you love it when you find something special without even trying?

Recently, while in Rome, I was out for a walk headed toward nowhere in particular. Enjoying a gelato, the sunshine and my leisurely stroll, I was paying attention to the intricate and elegant architecture of the area.

Walking along the Via del Quirinale, I noticed a church on my left. Noticing people entering, I decided to take a look inside.

The Church of Sant’ Andrea al Quirinal is a Roman Catholic church built for the Jesuit seminary on the Quirinal Hill. Commissioned in 1658, the church was constructed in 1661 and designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, who considered it one of his most perfect works.

And perfect it was!

A rotunda-type oval church, with the high altar placed on the short axis, makes it much closer to the entrance than most churches and the first thing I set my eyes upon. Drawn in due to the placement, my gaze was transfixed on the red marble columns flanking the incredible, breathtaking altar and the painting of The Martyrdom of Saint Andrew by Guillaume Courtois, topped with three-dimensional golden cherubs and a marble figure of Saint Andrew resting on the pediment high above the altar, arm outstretched and gazing upward.

Finally, tearing myself away, I began to inspect each of the chapels, moving to the right of the altar. The Chapel of St. Francis Xavier, showcases three canvases by Baciccio depicting the Baptism, Preaching and Death of St. Francis Xavier. Gazing upward, the ceiling presents a painting of The Glory of St. Francis Xavier by Filippo Bracci.

The Chapel of the Passion, has three canvases with scenes from the Passion of Jesus Christ by Giacinto Brandi and the chapel to the left of the altar, The Chapel of Saint Stanislaus Kostka, houses the shrine of the saint, a bronze and lapis lazuli urn and a painting of the Madonna With Child and Saint Stanislaus Kostka. Make sure to check out the ceiling fresco by Govanni Odazzi.

Another chapel is dedicated to Saint Ignatius of Loyola and showcases paintings by Ludovico Mazzanti of the Madonna and Child and Saints and Adoration of Kings and Shepherds. Another magnificent ceiling painting, Glory of the Angels, commanded my attention here also.

The final altar, located between the Chapel of Saint Stanislaus Kostka caught my eye with the large crucifix. In this chapel, I discovered the tomb of King Charles Emmanuel IV of Sardinia and Piedmont, who abdicated in 1815 to enter the Society of Jesus and lived in the Jesuit novitiate, adjacent to the church, until his death in 1819.

Many other intricately carved statues grace the pediments above the chapels and the domed ceiling is centered with an oculus allowing the church to be lighted naturally. Bringing my attention to the floor, I was entranced by the amazing inlaid mosaics which mirrors the elliptical dome overhead. Bernini did not want large funerary monuments within the church to ruin the architectural lines, so the mosaics mark the grave of those such as Cardinal Giambattista Spinola.

As I was moving through the church, I noticed a sign near a doorway. As if there wasn’t enough to captivate my attention, I discovered that for a small fee, I could visit the Rooms of Saint Stanislaus Kostka in the Jesuit novitiate, attached to the church, as well as the sacristy, which has been described as the most beautiful in the city. Not seeing many people heading that way, I decided that my curiosity needed to be satisfied.

Paying the sacristan on duty, I was then directed me up a stairway. Entering a small room, I discovered paintings and information about Saint Stanislaus Kostka. As I walked into the rooms that the saint spent his final years, what caught my eye…and actually, caught me a bit off guard…was a life-size marble statue depicting the dying saint, designed by Pierre Legros. Portrayed at the age of 18, the saint rests on a marble bed and holds in one hand, a small framed image of the Virgin Mary and a real rosary in the other. Surrounded by paintings from his life, the Baroque decor is even more engaging, painted deep red and trimmed in an abundance of gold.

Relics belonging to the saint are displayed in a case the left and two altars fill the wall spaces. The rooms were so mesmerizing and yet so intimate, not something you get to experience in the normal course of a church visit.

After my descent to the bottom level, I was greeted once again by the sacristan, who then led me into the sacristy and turned on the interior lights. As my eyes adjusted, I thought, “Indeed, this could be one of the most beautiful in Rome.” The dark wood altarpiece displays a painting, Immaculate Conception, by Andrea Pozzo, but the ceiling is the magnificent that I have ever seen. The multi-dimensional fresco depicts the Apotheosis of St. Andrew by Govanni de Brosso and is worthy of more than a few minutes of anyone’s time. Take a seat and stay awhile!

Finally, as my visit was drawing to a close, I took one more round in the church and then stepped outside to take a better look at the exterior. A simple beauty, marked by a semicircular porch with two Ionic columns invites visitors in to its exaggerated beauty on the inside.

As I stood contemplating what I had just witnessed, a couple walked up near me and read about the church from a guide book they were carrying. Seeming a bit hesitant about whether or not to take the time to enter, I encouraged them to do so. To not enter and miss one of Rome’s treasures would be just as a Jesuit devotee dying at the young age of 18.

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Sant’Andrea al Quirinale

Address: Via del Quirinale 29.
Hours: Monday-Friday 0830-1200, 1500-1900. Saturday and Sunday 0900-1200, 1530-1900.
Admission: free. €2.00 for entrance to Chapel of St. Stanislov and sacristy.
Getting There: From the Fontane del Tritone near the Barberini Metro station, walk up Via delle Qattro Fontane. Turn right at Via del Quirinale; pass the church San Carlo alle Quatro Fontane (built by Bernini’s rival, Borromini). Pass the park and Sant’Andrea is on the left at the end of the gardens.

An Ancient House of Worship

The area near the Piazza Navona is one of my favorite places to visit when in Rome, for the activity, the food, the artists and the gelato.

But…I am not going to tell you about the Piazza Navona.

I’m going to tell you about a building that I pass every time I head there.

The Pantheon.

There are many churches in Rome. I have been to too many to count, however, one of the best preserved buildings in Rome is a church originally constructed as a temple dedicated to all the gods of pagan Rome. Dating back to between AD 118 and 125, the Pantheon was built after an original edition was destroyed by fire. As ancient as it is, this prodigious building has been in use since its construction.

Having visited many times before, I still like to take a look inside every now and then. Approaching the beautiful facade on my most recent trip, I am still mesmerized by the massive columns that line the portico. Walking among these is always quite inspiring, imaging those who came before me. Nothing, however, prepares you for those who have come minutes before…other tourists.

Massive crowds fill the interior every day seeking to inspect this architectural phenomenon. Though classified as a temple, it is unknown how worship was conducted here as it is quite different from many other ancient Roman temples. Today, though, many take a seat near the altar, head bowed in prayer and contemplation…appropriate as its inception as a church when Byzantine emperor Phocas bequeathed it to Pope Boniface IV in AD 608.

The best way to appreciate the Pantheon (while dodging the crowds), however, is to walk around the round structure while noting that remarkably, the diameter is the same as the interior height of the dome. The architecture is most fascinating as the structure is comprised of a series of intersecting arches resting on eight piers. The arches correspond to the eight bays which house statues.

Interspersed between the bays are the tombs of many famous figures from Italian history…painters Raphael and Annibale Carracci, composer, Arcangelo Corelli and architect Baldassare Peruzzi as well as the Italian kings, Vittorio Emanuele II and Umberto I. There are also many paintings that adorn the walls, the best known being the Annunication by Melozzo da Forli.

The most amazing part of the Pantheon, however, is the oculus and probably the first thing your eye is drawn to when entering. An engineering feat of its time, no other constructed before was as large. Still lined with the original Roman bronze, it is the main source of light for the entire building. As the oculus is open to the elements, rain does fall into the interior. Tourists should never fear, however, the slightly convex floor allows the water to drain into the still functioning Roman drainpipes beneath.

After my visit was complete, I stepped out into the piazza to take a better look at the fabulous temple from afar. The crowds were probably as thick here as they were inside, however, I was able to step up onto the raised platform that surrounded the amazing fountain that holds court in the center of the square.

After my photographs of the Pantheon were taken, I turned around to inspect the bubbling water behind me. Funny, as many times as I had walked through this piazza and visited the Pantheon, I had only ever glanced at the fountain due to the large crowds that surround it.

The Fontana del Pantheon was commissioned by Pope Gregory XIII and sculpted entirely out of marble. When the fountain was modified over a hundred years later, a new basin made of stone was installed and the Macuteo obelisk that you see today, was placed in the center. The original marble figures that were originally installed, were removed in 1886, replaced with copies and placed in the Museum of Rome. Much more beautiful up close!

If you are on your way to the Piazza Navona, or just in the area, step inside to see this incredible architectural gem and then have a seat around the beautiful fountain. Grab a gelato or a drink and relax for a while.

With so many visitors, you never know who you might meet!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Pantheon

http://www.polomusealelazio.beniculturali.it/index.php?it/232/pantheon
Address: Piazza della Rotonda, 00186 Rome
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0830-1930, Sunday, 0900-1800. Mid-week holidays, 0900-1300. Closed January 1, May 1, December 25.
Admission: free
Getting There: Take bus 117 and get off at Corso-Minghetti. The Pantheon is a 4 minute walk.

Panama Of The Past

Many ancient Spanish cities have maintained their old quarters.

Panama City is no exception.

The city, founded on August 15, 1519, lasted one hundred and fifty two years, until Governor Juan Perez de Guzman ordered it to be set to fire in 1671 in an attempt to thwart an attack by pirate Henry Morgan. A year later, construction began on the new city, then founded on January 21, 1673. Built on a peninsula, it was entirely segregated from the sea and protected by a system of walls.

Once, one of the richest and most densely populated neighborhoods, Casco Viejo experienced years of neglect around the 1950s. Today, the city has preserved this area and was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1997. One of the city’s top attractions, it draws thousands of visitors who come to experience Panama’s culture and history.

As we were dropped off at the Plaza de la Independencia, where the country’s independence from Spain and Columbia was celebrated, I glanced around at the fine architectural details present on most of the buildings. The Casco Viejo (Spanish for Old Town) is filled with peaceful, shady plazas, wrought iron balconies, aged, brightly colored doorways and a myriad of churches.

After inspecting the dignified busts of Panama’s founding fathers, scattered throughout the square, we glanced around, not sure how to tackle the many narrow streets and plazas beckoning to my touristic nature. Heading toward the waterfront, we occasionally stopped to peruse the many souvenir shops filled with masks, pareos, outdated Panama license plates and of course, Panama hats.

The waterfront promenade offered some amazing views of the city’s impressive skyline as well as of the Cinta Costera, the viaduct that encircles the historic and governmental district of Casco Viejo, a controversial project which was built to solve the traffic nightmares without disturbing the historic neighborhood.

Grabbing a snow-cone from one of the local vendors, we sat on a park bench and savored the balmy temperatures while enjoying our chilly treat.

While my main desire was to visit La Catedral Metropolitana, the main, Catholic temple in Panama City, we found it to be under a massive renovation. The San Francisco de Asis Church was only a couple of blocks away and we decided to step in. One of the original structures from Casco Viejo, the church was nearly destroyed by fire in 1737 and 1756. Restored in 1998, it was more modern than I anticipated but presented vibrant stained glass, marble throughout and a beautiful, mosaic behind the altar.

Though we were not allowed to venture too close, we walked near the Palace of the Herons, the stately home and offices of the President of Panama. Built in 1673, the grounds are home to African herons, thus earning its name.

Another main tourist attraction in Casco Viejo is the Panama Canal Museum. Since we had just come from the Miraflores Visitor Center, we opted to take a pass on this one.

Continuing on the cobblestone streets, we admired the local artwork and graffiti that adorned many walls. Though many buildings have been restored, there are many still under construction and some in various stages of decay. Still, I enjoyed seeing the remnants of days gone by, knowing that so much history resides in these crumbling facades. Amidst the beautifully colored buildings, these chasms in the perfection of the city, add mystery and wonder.

Two more churches were also encountered in Casco Viejo. Even with a considerable Catholic population, it is incredible that so many churches exist in such a small area. One of the three churches we visited was the Capilla de San José, an unassuming church built in the 1670s. We enjoyed the quiet atmosphere and admired its famed lustrous golden altar, carved of wood and painted in gold flake. Another church, Iglesia de Merced, is one of the city’s oldest structures (1680) and most noted for its baroque facade. Containing a beautiful wooden altar and a large collection of religious statues, it’s most impressive feature its its original, exposed wooden ceiling. So ancient does this ceiling appear, that it made me slightly uneasy standing below.

Many restaurants and bars grace the streets in the Old Town and finding a tasty place to eat is not hard to do. In fact, nighttime, is a festive affair and should not be missed when visiting the city, even if not staying in one of the area’s many hotels and hostels.

Finally, we made our way back to Plaza de la Independencia. Taking a seat on one of the many shady, seating areas, we rested our weary feet, admiring the scenes around us. Besides the other camera touting tourists, the square attracts a large number of locals who come to interact with each other and children who use the tranquil area to play.

As our afternoon came to an end, it was also pleasant to find that free WIFI was offered in this area and we were able to contact Uber for a ride home.

Though staying in Casco Viejo would have been nice, we opted for a hotel in the downtown area. A little more affordable than the Old Town area, we found it to be surrounded by many restaurants and shopping and safe for walking at night. Only a five dollar cab away, we were happy with our accommodations, however, if you want to be in the “happening” part of town, check out one of the many hotels and hostels in the area.

And if like us, you opt for downtown, make sure to visit the beautiful and historic part of Panama City. Enjoying a part of Panama’s past is a fundamental part of a visit to The Isthmus!

Casco Viejo

http://www.patronatopanamaviejo.org/ppv2014/es/
Hours: Hours vary for museums, churches, restaurants and bars. Check each for individual hours.
Admission: free
Getting There: From downtown areas, about $5 cab or Uber ride.

Azores. Day By Day. Part Two.

The early bird catches the worm.

So they say.

We caught some breakfast and a rain shower, but we were anxious to begin our drive around the island of San Miguel.

Armed with a map, snagged from a travel agent in Ponta Delgada, we had a plan and a full tank of gas. It was time to travel outside the city limits. Deciding to begin our exploration on the western side of the island, we passed the airport and headed out through many small towns driving down empty country lanes lined with beautiful flowers and overlooked by sturdy-looking cows.

As concerned as I was about the cows (I was warned that they tend to jump in front of cars! Hmm…yes, that was what I was told…), I was far more interested in the amazing scenic overlooks every few miles and the beautiful hydrangeas that lined the roadways.

Having heard about the hydrangeas from friends, it was another thing to actually see them in person. These are not the small bushes you normally see in your neighbor’s garden. Looking more like the size of trees, these amazing flowers appeared in countless colors, shapes and sizes, are the most recognized symbol of the region and are maintained by the towns in which they are located. As beautiful and enticing as they are, only stop to smell the flowers…it is illegal to pick them.

Continuing onward, we soon found ourselves at the Miradouro da Vista do Rei, an overlook with views of Sete Cidades, the three mile wide caldera and its green and blue-hued lakes. According to legend, these lakes were formed from the tears of a shepherd and a princess who shared a forbidden love.

There is a parking area at the fork in the road with many trails leading into the crater. There is also an intriguing abandoned hotel located here which reminded me of a setting from a horror movie. Though it is now enclosed by a wall to keep intruders out, the wall is not high enough if you are really determined to see the rotting remains up close.

Driving down into the crater, we crossed the lake, stopping on the banks to take in the sights from a lower angle. The charming town was filled with typical Portuguese architecture…homes, businesses and a church…of course!

The Igreja de São Nicolau is a quaint little church which is preceded by a tree-lined path. The single-nave neo-gothic church building has a central bell tower with some nice statues located on the lawn. Though not as grand as the churches I visited in Ponta Delgada, it was still nice to see the simplicity of the structure.

Continuing our journey, we soon found ourselves in Mosteiros, a seaside town on the northwest coast of San Miguel. Looking more like a Hawaiian postcard, this area boasts cliffs, rock formations, a black sand beach and blue water and is a great place to relax for a while. The waters are quite rough and more conducive to surfing than swimming but lifeguards were there to kee watch.

Rounding the northwest corner of the island, we drove through Bretanha, Remédios, Santa Bárbara, Santo António and Capelas, stopping to admire each overlook and the occasional church.

After a quick lunch in Ribeira Grande, we headed south. Our destination was Lagoa de Fogo, yet, we somehow ended up in Furnas. Furnas was on our itinerary for the next day, but we decided to alter our plans and take a look around a bit early.

The village of Furnas is the situated on the easternmost of the three caldera lakes located on San Miguel and boasts the charm of many of the other locales in the Azores.

Famous for its hot springs and the Terra Nostra gardens, it attracts a large number of visitors each day. Since it was later in the day, due to our driving misstep, we decided to skip the natural pools and the gardens and instead drive to the Chapel of Our Lady of Victories, a small funerary chapel located on the southwestern corner of the lake.

Completed in 1886, the chapel was built by José do Canto, a gentleman-farmer, following the death of his wife, Maria Guilhermina Taveira Brum do Canto, from a terminal illness. Located near his summer home on the lake, the chapel was built on an elevation on the embankment and caused quite the stir upon its completion with its high ceilings, pyramid-like spire and stained glass windows.

Upon Canto’s death, he was laid to rest here beside his wife.

The chapel can be viewed from the path alongside the lake but you can also pay 3 euro to enter the José do Canto Forest Garden where you can inspect the chapel up close. The garden has nice trails, one of which leads to a high, narrow waterfall and many of the trees from around the world are labeled and includes a giant sequoia.

Upon your entry from the parking lot, make sure to pay attention to the Garden of Lagoa das Furnas on your left for the figures carved into the trees…it is also a great spot to have a picnic.

After leaving the garden and lake area, we headed over to the Fumarolas da Lagoa das Furnas…the caldeiras on the northern side of the lake. Though there are areas for bathing, we decided to walk around the area. The ground was steaming and there were holes with boiling water beside the raised wooden walkways.

What is most significant about this area is that chefs from several Furnas restaurants prepare a special local meal here at the site. Cozido, a stew that is prepared by being placed inside the caldera, harnesses the heat from the earth and cooks inside the ground. Though we did not get to try the stew, I was told that it tends to smell like sulfur but is quite unique.

As the day was drawing to a close, we made our way back to Ponta Delgado to rest our weary bodies and make our plan for the next day. So much more to see and do!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Chapel of Our Lady of Victories and José do Canto Forest Garden

Address: Lagoa das São Miguel, Furnas, Portugal
Hours: October through March, 0900-1700, April through September, 0900-1900, daily. Closed January 1 and December 25.
Admission: 3€

Azores, Day By Day. Part One

Earlier this summer I visited Portugal for the first time.

Lisbon on two separate occasions was enlightening and refreshing, but, I was aware that there were so many other parts that I wanted to visit…what an understatement! I was thinking Porto…Faro. Then, I heard about the Azores.

Now, I am a person who prides herself on geography knowledge, but I have to admit, I had no idea where the Azores were located and was amazed to find that it was part of Portugal! I decided I had to take a quick trip to check out this archipelago.

After a quick flight from New York, we were touching down in the light of the early morning hour, ready to discover everything available to us.

Despite my usual attention to detail, I found myself a bit unprepared for this trip, driving out of the airport rental car lot with only a vague map snagged from the rental car company.

Our hotel was easy to find on the harbor in Ponta Delgada, however, our room would not be ready until later that morning. Driving past, we headed east, following the rugged coastline, interspersed with black sand beaches and sapphire waters. Finding ourselves in Lagoa, we marveled at the colorful homes and businesses lining the narrow cobblestone streets and the white stone churches that seemed to be everywhere! It truly seemed that we were in Italy, not Portugal!

Driving through Saõ Roque I spied a beautiful church along the coast. Igreja de Saõ Roque is the main parochial church of the area and includes the Chapel of the Holies, an altar of immense value and decorated in hand-painted azulejo tile. It is also known as the burial place for the grandmother of the Marquês e Pombal.

Re-mastering my little stick-shift (which I had not driven in about 25 years), we cruised along the narrow lanes and sometimes highways, heading wherever…we had no plan in that moment.

Finding outselves at the Miradouro do Ilhéu de Rosto de Cão, we parked the car and ventured over to check out the interesting rock formation jutting out from the ocean from one of the many overlooks dotting the islands’ landscape. We also found here Forno Da Cal, a rocky fortress-like structure which was transformed from a site used for the production of lime to one used for tourism. Resembling a small fort, its higher vantage point give visitors an amazing view over Ponta Delgada, São Roque, the hills and the Atlantic Ocean.

Finally, heading back into Ponta Delgada, it was time for check-in and a much needed shower and nap.

After our refreshing siesta, we headed out on foot, eager to explore the town laid out before us.

I must admit, I wasn’t sure what to expect from the Azores and was surprised to find it a blend of many architectural styles and exuding the characteristics of many other countries. In the square, housing the 18th century City Gate, some of the buildings reminded me of those I encounter in Switzerland and Germany. And, as I mentioned before, I got the sense of Italy along the coastline in the small villages dotting the landscape. As we headed through the countryside, I felt as though I was glimpsing Ireland and Scotland, with the low, stone walls separating the green, rolling hills. The Azores was truly a revelation!

Strolling along the main street, we dodged the occasional rain shower, peering into the shops and restaurants and hoping that the dark skies would not open up. Our destination, Fort de Saõ Bras de Ponta Delgada, was situated on the outskirts of the city and I was anxious to spend some time walking along the ramparts and admiring the harbor views.

Paying our entrance fee, we entered the active military installation and set out to see what this place was all about.

Constructed in the 17th century, the Renaissance fort’s purpose was to defend the area against pirate raids as well as the Spaniards and the French. During both World Wars, the fort secured the safety of Allied shipping and today acts as a base for the Portuguese navy as well as housing a military museum.

Across the main road, we found the church of Saõ José. Looking like a typical Portuguese church from the outside, it offers a feast for the eyes on the interior. In the early 1500’s the Franciscan Friars built a convent in the location. Construction of the church was began in 1709 and showcases three naves and three chapels, including the Chapels of the Lord of the Thirds and Our Lady of Sorrows. Decorated with rich gilded woodwork, it also features important 18th century blue and white tiles and jacaranda appointments.

Another church, in the adjacent square is Igreja do Santo Cristo. Also exhibiting a beautifully gilded interior, this one threw me for a loop. As I positioned myself discreetly to photograph the altar, I noticed the door opening and a gentleman crawling on hand and knee into the church. Making his way to the rear of the building, he remained prostrate before a gated area. Many after him, came to the gated area and knelt for extended periods of time. Waiting patiently for a spot to open on one of the benches facing the bars, I finally made my way there and took a seat.

I was intrigued…what significance did this church have? After doing a bit of research later that evening, I learned that this chapel houses Senhor Santo Cristo dos Milagres, the wooden image of Christ which represents the Jesus of Nazareth as he was presented to the crowd wearing a crown of thorns on his head and with his bruised, beaten, whipped torso exposed. Created by an unknown artist, the statue is on display here in the church and is used to lead a procession through the city during the city for the festival honoring the Lord Holy Christ of the Miracles on the fifth Sunday after Easter and lasting until Thursday of the Ascension.

This is truly a place of pilgrimage, spirituality and extreme faith.

So moving and so touched was I by those coming to pay their respects and seek favor, I did not take any pictures of the statue. Anyone visiting Ponta Delgada should come and see Senhor Santo Cristo dos Milagres for themselves.

Having seen three churches on this day so far, anyone would think that I would have had enough, however, there was one more that had captured my attention as we walked near the main square earlier, Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião (The Church of Saint Sebastian).

This church’s bell tower, the only one in the city, snagged my attention as I had walked nearby earlier during the afternoon. Built between the years of 1531 and 1547, the Azotian church’s exterior is quite similar to the the previous ones I had visited earlier in the day. Often referred to as the “Matriz”, this church was built on the site of a small chapel dedicated to the first patron saint of the island.

The interior was lavishly decorated with carved cedar and other exotic woods and the opulently carved altar and choir stalls guided me around the structure. As I made my way around the church, I was drawn to the age-old paintings from the 17th and 18th centuries, the elegant jacaranda furniture, the glazed tiles and the colorful images of the saints etched onto the windows. In the sacristy, an immensely valuable collection of gold-embroidered liturgical vestments can viewed.

Snapping away with my camera at the beauty that was displayed here, I was suddenly aware of a gentleman staring at me as I walked around. As I glanced around, it became apparent that no other visitors were taking pictures and I had probably disturbed the man with the continual clicking of my shutter. Indeed, as I exited the church, I noticed the sign that I had missed upon my entry…no photography was allowed. Though I had not purposely ignored the instructions, I did feel terrible for my mistake.

Continuing on, we made our way through the cobblestone streets made of volcanic rock, admiring the beautiful patterns that led the way. So many things diverted our attention…musicians, shops displaying Azorian wares, people spread out in the promenades enjoying the lovely afternoon.

Finally, the effects of traveling through the night and lack of sleep was finally taking its toll.

Heading down to the waterfront, we spotted the restaurant that had been recommended to me by a coworker. Enjoying the freshly prepared seafood, we admired the sweeping views of the working harbor, inhaling the scent of the salt infused air and appreciating being able to finally give pause to our weary bodies.

A good night’s rest was definitely needed…tomorrow was to be a day filled with more exploration of this unique and beautiful island.

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Itt6xx[;-0p0-[greja de Saõ Roque

Address: R. Direita da Igreja, São Roque, Portugal
Hours: Unknown
Admission: free

Fort de Saõ Bras de Ponta Delgada

Address: R. Eng. Abel Ferin Coutinho 10, 9500-768 Ponta Delgada, Portugal
Hours: Monday through Friday, 1000-1800, Saturday and Sunday, 1000-1330 and 1430-1700.
Admission: €3.00

Igreja de Saõ José

http://saojoseparoquiapdl.wixsite.com/paroquia
Address: Campo de São Francisco 11A, 9500-153 Ponta Delgada, Portugal
Hours: 0800-1230 and 1400-1700, daily
Admission: free

Igreja do Santo Cristo dos Milagres

Address: Avenida Roberto Ivens Ponta Delgada, 9500-239 Ponta Delgada, Portugal
Hours: Unknown, however, may be similar to the neighboring Igreja de Saõ José
Admission: free

Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião

Address: Largo da Matriz 62, 9500-094 Ponta Delgada, Portugal
Hours: Monday through Saturday, 0730-1900. Sunday, 0730 to 1300 and 1600-1800.
Admission: free

Mosteiro dos Jeronimos

During my last visit to Lisbon, I made the journey to the coastal area of Belém. With so many things to see and do there, I was disappointed to realize that there wasn’t sufficient time in my short afternoon to visit all of the landmarks. During this trip, we were fortunate to be there for the Festival of the Mask, which takes place on the grounds of the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos.

Staring at the beautiful building, I was mesmerized at its intricate facade and decided that this beautiful building would be first on the list of places to visit on my next trip.

One of the most decorative churches in Portugal, the monastery was built on the site of the church dedicated to Santa Maria de Belém on the harbor of Praia do Restelo. Monks of the military-religious Order of Christ resided here at the time and provided assistance to seafarers in transit.

In 1495, Manuel I inaugurated the construction of the existing structure and the Hieronymites order of monks were chosen to reside in the complex, remaining there for over four centuries. The building of the time was already in disrepair when Vasco da Gama and his men spent the night in prayer there before departing on their Orient expedition in 1497.

Construction of the monastery was initiated on January 6, 1501 and eventually took 100 years until its completion. As an overabundance of taxes were collected, architects’ plans grew until it reached the size, scale and style that you see today. The Manueline ornamentation in the cloisters incorporates maritime elements and objects discovered during naval expeditions, carved in limestone. The main chapel, the choir and the two stories of the monastery were completed in 1550, however thirty years later, construction was halted as funds were redirected to the Escorialin in Spain as Portugal and Spain united.

After various parts of the monastery was completed in the 1600s (new portal, cloister door, house of the doorkeepers, staircase and a hall that was the entrance to the upper choir), the monastery became the burial place for the royal pantheon.

Additional adornments were completed in the 1700s, including important paintings by artist Henrique Ferreira. After the earthquake of 1755, much of the artwork and treasures were transferred to the crown or lost and the structure was vacated.

During the late 1800s, restorations began on the property, including the cloisters. The annex and facade of the church were altered dramatically and are what you see today.

The Monastery of Jerónimos is one of the most visited landmarks in Lisbon and tourists should be aware of long waits to enter…I had no idea. Fortunately, as I took my place in line, I was informed by a passerby that I could enter the Archaeological Museum next door, purchase my ticket there and skip the line. Of course, I was a bit skeptical…if I left my place in line and what I was told was inaccurate, it would be back to the end of the line again. Thankfully, they were correct. I waited for ten minutes, purchased my ticket and walked past everyone who had been in front of me and was still waiting in the warm afternoon temperatures.

The monastery is truly magnificent, with its carvings of saints over its entryways and fine stone details…make sure to stop by the South Entrance which is truly magnificent. Once inside, the two level cloister is a sight to behold with pinnacles, gargoyles and other decorative features and long, architectural corridors.

The interior gardens offer a mixture of the Manuelino, European, Moorish and Eastern styles, symbols of the Portuguese empire and its power throughout the world. Certainly a place to take your time, admire the architecture and spend a bit of time in reflection on one of the many alcoves on the upper level. Pay particular attention to all of the different carvings on each of the columns…faces, rosettes, dates.

You will also encounter some of the remains of important figures in Portuguese history, including presidents Teófilo Braga and Oscar Carmona, playwright, Almeida Garrett and modern poet Fernando Pessoa.

The Church of Santa Maria de Belém, in the monastery, does not need a ticket to enter and is truly the highlight of the monastery. Access to the upper level choir loft is from the monastery, so be sure not to miss it. Take in the view of the church from above before heading downstairs. Of particular interest is the crucifix, the beautiful paintings and the carved choir seating all bathed in the subtle light streaming in from the rose window.

As I entered the church’s lower lever, my senses were truly overloaded as I was not sure where to set my gaze. Entering from the side portal, I first encountered the tombs of Vasco da Gama and Luís de Camões which are located in the lower choir. These magnificent tombs, designed by sculptor Costa Mota can be admired from all angles and both offer extreme detail. The baptismal chapel is also located near the side doors as well as the exquisite Altar Dourado. Along the north wall are beautiful confessionals and large stained glass windows decorate the space, allowing alluring filtered light to enter.

As I walked around the church and marveled at the amazing details that decorated every niche, every column and every arch, I encountered the remains of Cardinal-King Dom Henrique and the children of Manuel I as well as the tomb of King Sebastião and the descendants of King João III.

Make sure to walk near the altar for a closer look at the beautifully painted walls and golden tabernacle. The golden organ is also located at the front of the church.

Overall, my visited lasted just over an hour and I was touched by the artistry and grandeur of this amazing place.

When visiting Lisbon, make sure to head over to Belem to experience some of the most beautiful architecture in the city. Worth any amount of time you may have to spend in line, Jerónimos Monastery is a masterpiece!

For more pictures check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Monsteiro dos Jerónimos

http://www.mosteirojeronimos.gov.pt/pt/index.php
Address: Praça do Império 1400-206 Lisboa, Portugal
Hours: October to April, 1000-1730, May to September, 1000-1830. Closed Mondays, January 1, Easter Sunday, May 1, June 13 and 25 December.
Admission: Individuals, 10€. Combination ticket, Monastery and National Archaeological Museum, 12€. 50% discount for 65 years and older. Family ticket, 50% discount for 2 adults, 2 children, ages 0-18.
Getting There: #15 Tram from the city center runs to Belem
Additional Information: Gift shop located within the monastery as well as an exhibit on the history and construction of the monastery.