Plan Goya

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Plans A, B, C, D, E and F.

When your time is limited in a city, it is imperative to have multiple plans because you never know…websites have incorrect hours, the lines are too long to get into your intended destinations or you happen to sleep too long. 

On this particular day, I had plans to visit the Pantheon of Illustrious Men.  It was some distance from my hotel and it closed at 3:00 p.m, so I knew that when I laid down for a quick nap, it had to be just that…quick. 

So, what do you think happened?  

Yes, I slept a little too long. 

On this day, however, I had broken my cardinal rule.  There was no Plan B, C, D, E or even F.  

As I rushed to get ready, I ran through list of attractions, churches and museums in the area.  Temple of Debod came to mind and I thought I would head that way to see what I would find.

It was a beautiful day and I headed on foot in the direction of the Temple of Debod. I didn’t remember that it was a place where you could enter the building;  I had only remembered that it was in a park.  Yet, when I arrived, there was a line formed waiting for entry.

“Okay, is this worth it?” I asked myself, looking at the empty water basins that make up the monument.  I remembered walking by in the past, and it was quite lovely, but waiting an extraordinary amount of time due to Covid spacing requirements for entry, didn’t seem like a productive way to spend my shortened afternoon. Quickly taking a look at my Google maps, I realized that I wasn’t extremely far from the Real Ermita de San Antonio de La Florida (The Royal Chapel of St. Anthony of La Florida).

A few years ago, I had dragged a couple of my coworkers to this small church before taking a ride on the Teleferico en Rosales. I didn’t remember much about it except that it was extremely famous for its interior painting.  

Walking through the Parque de la Montaña and near the Rosaleda del Parque del Oeste, I enjoyed the warmth of the winter afternoon.  Finally, crossing the brightly bedecked pedestrian walkway above the train tracks, I found myself at the rear of the church. 

Though it wasn’t extremely far, it had taken about 45 minutes and it suddenly dawned on me that it could be closed.  I also suddenly remembered that there had been no photography allowed when I had first visited…oh brother…this afternoon was surely going to be a bust!

Oh well, I was here.  

Walking toward the front of the church, I found a sign directing me to the entrance on the right.  There was no one to greet me and I made my way through the hallway and right into the church, where I found two other visitors, eyes trained on the ceiling.  Following their lead, I looked upward and remembered what this church was famous for.  

Goya.

Okay, so I had moved on to Plan G. Plan Goya.

In the late 17th century, a chapel, devoted to St. Anthony of Padua, had a great many devotees, especially those of women without future matrimonial prospects.  To this day, it still hosts of a pilgrimage, held on June 13, that is attended by young adult women who hope to be married. 

The chapel was eventually demolished and relocated to the estate of La Florida.  King Charles V ordered the construction of the new chapel between 1792 to 1798 and commissioned painter Francisco de Goya to adorn its vaults with a series of frescoes.  Goya, aware of the importance of this chapel to its devotees took great care with his creation and these frescoes ultimately became some of the greatest of his masterpieces.

Due to its importance to the city of Madrid and to Spain, in 1905, the chapel was declared a National Monument and Francisco de Goya’s remains were moved here in 1919 from Bordeaux (where he had died in 1828).  In order to preserve the original as a museum, an identical chapel was built beside it, in 1928, for worshipers.  

As my eyes moved around the room, I was entranced by the muted movement within each series.  These frescoes, depicting the miracles of St. Anthony of Padua, were painted over six months time during which Goya developed many new techniques that he went on to incorporate into his art going forward. The most captivating series, however, are within the dome and depict Saint Anthony raising a man from the dead and absolving his father who had been falsely accused of his murder. 

Take a moment to sit on one of the benches, prepare for a neck ache and take it all in.  

As I did this for a while, my neck spasms then began. Moving around, I then took in the two altarpieces painter by Jacinto Gómez Pastor, on each side of the rectangular Greek cross-plan chapel,  as well as a gold cherub chandelier dropping from the dome.  At the front of the chapel, I admired the crucifix, within the apse, decorated with angels and fronted by Goya’s tomb. 

The chapel is and contains one of Madrid’s most spectacular treasures and it is a place that all visitors should seek out. Best part for me?  Photographs are now allowed!

As I always like to suggest to people, “head on over,” to places that I recommend, I think that in this case it takes on an interesting connotation here.

When Goya’s remains were to be brought to Madrid, the French officials realized that his head had gone missing.  Madrid’s response?

“Bring him home, even headless!”

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Real Ermita de San Antonio de La Florida

  • Email:  http://www.madrid.es/ermita
  • Address: Glorieta San Antonio de la Florida, 528008
  • Hours:  Daily, 0930-2000, Closed Monday.  Summer hours, from June 15-September 15, 0930-1400, Tuesday to Friday. Saturday, Sunday and public holidays, 0930-1900. 
  • Admission: free
  • Guided tours (conducted in Spanish and English, with prior booking by calling 91 542 07 22, from 9:30 to 20:00.
  • Getting There: Metro, Príncipe Pío (L6, L10, R).  Bus, 41, 46, 75, N20. Local train (Cercanías).

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Camels and the Capital

©2022 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

After an eventful day visiting the Saloum Delta in Senegal, we were still yearning to explore more than we had ever experienced in this beautiful African country.

Our friend and tour guide Mass gave us another option…one he had described to me in the past. A place that he said he wanted to take me to show me the contrasting beauty that existed in the northwest coast of the country.

It would be a long day…longer than the day spent visiting the Saloum Delta, but we were ready to tackle it for the adventures that lay in store.

Grand Mosque enroute to Lompoul
Sights along the way to the Lompoul Desert
Sights along the way to the Lompoul Desert

Three and a half hours after our early departure, we woke from our napping to realize that we had turned onto a small, hilly road, leading to the Ecolodge de Lompoul. This lodge is situated in in the Lompoul Desert, a small desert with distinctive orange sands piled into high, extraordinarily shaped dunes. Located about 145 kilometers south of Saint-Louis, the country’s former capital, the area is stunningly beautiful and offers accommodations in the form of tented lodges. As we pulled into the Ecolodge’s perimeter, we noticed the row of tents to the left and the main tent containing the restaurant on the right side.

Road to Lompoul Ecolodge
Lompoul Desert

The main thing we saw, however, was the magnificent sand dunes that stretched out beyond the tents, all the way to the Atlantic Ocean!

While the lodge offers quad bikes to rent and ride throughout the desert (which would have been fun), we had opted to do a more traditional activity…riding camels!

Lompoul Desert Ecolodge
Camel in Lompoul Desert

We jumped onto our camels and headed out into the barren landscape. It was hot but a faint breeze, from the nearby ocean, cooled the air as we plodded on through the desert. It was quite beautiful and serene. While we wished that we would have had time to ride all the way to the water, it was still quite some distance. Instead, we concentrated on the shifting sands and even spotted a dung beetle!

Lompoul Desert
Lompoul Desert
Lompoul Desert
Lompoul Desert Ecolodge

With our ride over, we headed back to the camp to have a cool drink before hitting the road again. One thing we wanted to do before we left, however, was check out the accommodations. Peeking into the first tent, we discovered a pretty nice setup. There were beds on the left, protected with mosquito netting and the floor covered with a nice carpet. A couple of chairs and a table filled the remaining space. Behind the table, to the right, there was a dividing cloth and behind it, a basin and primitive shower and a toilet. While the tents have running water, they do not have electricity. They were extremely clean and we were impressed! Had we known the setup, we might have decided to come here the day before and spend the night!

Lompoul Desert Ecolodge

Finally, we were on our way again, this time enroute to Saint-Louis or Ndar, as it is known to the locals. Saint-Louis was the capital of the French colony of Senegal from 1673 until 1902. From 1920 until 1957, it served as the capital of the neighboring colony of Mauritania.

Sights between Lompoul and Saint Louis
Sights between Lompoul and Saint Louis
Sights between Lompoul and Saint Louis

Driving into the city, we marveled at the colonial architecture and as we crossed the iron Faidherbe Bridge, which links the island of the city of Saint-Louis to the African mainland and we were excited to realize that we were getting ready to see life in the city. But first, lunch!

Faidherbe Bridge

Lunch at Flamingo Restaurant was delicious and our appetites were filled with not only the grilled gambas, but with the outstanding view of the muddy Senegal River rushing under the Faidherbe bridge and the faint landscape of Mauritania in the distance. With our lunch complete, we walked outside and jumped into a horse drawn cart for the real treat! A tour of the island!

Gambas at Flamingo Restaurant
Flamingo Restaurant

Riding through the streets, I remembered thinking of how much it reminded me of my trip to Cuba. Buildings were largely in disrepair, but I could still the beauty that once was.

Saint Louis
Saint Louis
Saint Louis

Once an important economic center, it still has some important industries including fishing and tourism, mainly due to its status as a UNESCO world Heritage site. While sugar production plays an important part of their commerce, we could see how fishing is what is the most dominant.

As we crossed from the island of Saint-Louis onto the Langue de Barbarie Peninsula, this was where the role fishing plays in the community was most apparent. The village of Guet N’Dar was bustling with activity and colorful boats lined the river banks. Multihued clothing and fishing nets, attached to lines strung between buildings, fluttered in the sea breeze, while strings of bobbers littered the grounds. Near the end of the peninsula, trucks were lined readied for loading of the day’s catch.

Langue de Barbarie Peninsula
Langue de Barbarie Peninsula
Langue de Barbarie Peninsula
Langue de Barbarie Peninsula
Langue de Barbarie Peninsula
Langue de Barbarie Peninsula
Langue de Barbarie Peninsula
Langue de Barbarie Peninsula
Langue de Barbarie Peninsula
Langue de Barbarie Peninsula
Langue de Barbarie Peninsula
Langue de Barbarie Peninsula
Langue de Barbarie Peninsula

Elsewhere, goats languished in the sun while older residents sought out shade from the afternoon’s heat. The children played in the streets, sometimes oblivious to our presence and at others captivated, running alongside our cart, yelling ”Toubab” (white people)!

Langue de Barbarie Peninsula
Langue de Barbarie Peninsula
Langue de Barbarie Peninsula
Langue de Barbarie Peninsula
Langue de Barbarie Peninsula
Langue de Barbarie Peninsula

As I sat on my perch, riding through the streets, I could not help but be mesmerized by its simplistic beauty but I also felt as though we were intruding on these people’s daily lives. True, they rely on tourism, yet you could feel their watchful eyes, wondering why we were truly there.

Eventually, we returned to Saint-Louis where we stopped for a moment to admire L’eglise Saint-Louis-en-I’lle, the 18th century Catholic Church which bears the distinction of being the oldest church in West Africa. The first foundation stone was laid on February 11, 1827 and was brought to fruition by Anne-Marie Javouhey, founder of the Order of Sisters of St. Joseph of Cluny and Captain Roger Baron. The stone was blessed by the apostolic prefect Girardon father and opened to it faithful on November 4, 1828.

L’eglise Saint-Louis-en-I’lle
Presidential Palace

With so much to see and experience in Saint-Louis, I could have stayed for days soaking it all in, but alas, there was a long drive back to Dakar to think of.

Bidding our adieus, we took our tired, sweaty and camel-smelling bodies to the waiting van for our return trip. Indeed it was an amazing adventure, one that I will build upon on a future trip! A night in a desert tent will definitely be something in my future when I return, but as of this day, I will think back fondly of our trip to the north of Senegal to the vast desert, the former capital and its people.

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The Motherland Experience

Lompoul Eco-Lodge

Restaurant Le Flamingo

Here In the Venetian Isles

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When I began thinking about writing this post, the first things that popped into my head was the song from Gilligan’s Island.

Just sit right back and you hear a tale, a tale of a fateful trip…

While we were on a three hour tour (or pretty close) and we kind of had a skipper and a first mate (the two who planned the tour). The only things in common with Gilligan’s outing was that we were taking a boat and heading to some islands, but we were praying that it would not be a fateful trip! Thankfully, it was anything but, however, there were some times I was doubtful.

Although I had been to the Venetian island of Murano, many years ago, I had never made it to any of the others. When approached by some of my friends about taking a tour that his wife had set up, I instantly agreed. It sounded like a day of sun and fun! It also ended up being a day with a few challenges!

Finding out where our boat would be picking us up was the first challenge. We wondered if we had walked over the bridge to the wrong location, but after some pacing, self-doubt and frantic internet searches, we saw the boat sidling up to the pier…a few minutes late.

Constitution Bridge

Making our way across the gangplank, we were on our way.

First stop, Murano.

The ride across the Venetian Lagoon was not long, however, we were fortunate that one of us had the forethought to bring a small ice chest filled with champagne and beer…you know…to pass the time. Now, whether this was allowed or not…I can only say that we were not asked to stop and we even shared with some other tourists!

Sights on the way to Murano

A couple of drinks later, I noticed that the lighthouse at the entrance to the harbor of Murano was growing closer. Making our way into the main canal, the boat eventually pulled up to the pier, allowing us to disembark. We were ushered into one of the many glassmaking studios to witness a glassblowing demonstration, which I remembered from my first visit. After its completion, I made my way along the canal boardwalk. Peering into the many Venetian glass shops, I admired the artistry, resisting the temptation to pull out my wallet and bring home a few colorful pieces.

Small island in the Venetian Lagoon
Murano Lighthouse
Murano glassblowing demonstration
Murano glass

Keeping up my walk and an eye on the time, my internal radar led me to…what else? A church. The Renaissance church of Santa Maria degli Angeli was built in 1188 and then rebuilt in 1529. Though it was not open, I was able to make my way throughout the property and admire the exterior architecture.

Church of Santa Maria degli Angeli

Returning to the banks of the Canale degli Angeli, I strolled along, photographing and admiring the beauty of the day and my surroundings. The last time I had been here, was during winter. Bitterly cold, we had only concentrated on a few shops that day and one of the glassblowing demonstrations. In the bright sunshine of this summer day, the buildings were distinctive and the water sparkled. It was much more stunning than I had remembered.

I spotted my companions up ahead near the Ponte Longo Lino Toffolo (bridge). Pausing for some quick photos, we then ran back to the meeting point to depart on our boat for the next island, Torcello.

Ponte Longo Lino Toffolo

A short ride later, with some additional drinks and snacks picked up in Murano, we were arriving at the island’s pier. Time was limited and I wanted to see as much as I could. While my travel companions opted to take a seat at one of the restaurants to have another drink, I headed to the 7th century Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta. A small line snaked from the entrance, so I opted to only enter the Byzantine Church of Santa Fosca and walk the grounds of the church and the Museo Provinciale di Torcello.

Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta
Church of Santa Fosca
Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta
Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta
Grounds of Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta
Grounds of Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta
Museo Provinciale di Torcello

As in Murano, time was limited and I made sure to leave enough for the long walk back to the pier, so as not to miss our boat’s departure. Running into one of my colleagues, we quickly walked to the gangplank, however, not seeing our other companions, whom he had left earlier at the restaurant, we begged the guide to wait a few more minutes. Running to the corner, we did not see them and quickly made the decision that we would miss the boat if they did not show. Finally, they came strolling around the corner! Thankfully, the boat had waited and we all hastily hopped on board, ready for Burano.

Thankful that we had all made it and didn’t have to figure out our own way to Burano or back to Venice, I eagerly anticipated our next stop. Burano, is the island that I was most excited for. Over the years, I had seen pictures and always planned for a trip. Usually arriving into Venice at mid-day, it was always a bit tough to make it to the ferry and over to Burano and back, so I had never made it a priority. Today, even with limited time on the tour, I planned to squeeze in as much as I could so that maybe on a future visit, I would be more prepared.

That first views of the colorful buildings of Burano was unlike anything I had ever imagined. Set against the bright blue sky, they were absolutely breathtaking! Deciding to stick together this time, the four of us headed along the banks of the canals and through the small alleyways that make up the island…well, until we lost one at a bar! Deciding to pick him up on our way back to the boat, we set out to explore more of the colorful fisherman’s village.

Striped curtains covered doorways, allowing both ventilation, privacy and a quaint charm. Many of the buildings offered Moorish influences and small bridges spanned the canals. We learned that that any person wishing to paint their building in Burano have to follow a specific system and submit a request to the government which, in turn, issues a permit for certain colors to allow for variety and yet, consistency.

While Murano is known for its glass making, Burano is known for its lace. There were many shops featuring the beautiful lace that the island is famous for. Lacemaking was started in the 16th century and continues today, although only a few lace makers create it in the traditional way. Beautiful examples of traditional lace and demonstrations can be found at the Lace Museum in the palace of Podesta of Torcello, though we only opted to admire the artistry from the shops lining the canal.

Burano Lace

We spotted Burano’s leaning tower, located near the San Martino Church. Dating back to the 16th century, Il Campanile Storto tilts severely and can be viewed from many points throughout the island, including the nearby Piazza di Galuppi. While I had hoped to visit The Chapel of Santa Barbara and a few other notable landmarks, we had to make do with walking down the nearby main street and grabbing some refreshing gelato before seeking out our mislaid companion.

While he wasn’t where we initially left him, with a little luck, we found him otherwise engaged in conversation on a bench with a local, before we dragged him back to the boat!

Finally, our tour of the three islands completed, we headed back to Venice. with the sun falling lower in the evening sky. A magical day, I was happy with all that I had seen and that it was a day that I did not have to plan. Although my colleagues may have been a bit challenged with getting to the boat on time, we had made it back to Venice in time for dinner.

Sights on the return to Venice
Sunset in Venice

All four of us…the skipper, the first mate, Mr. Howell and me, the movie star…okay…okay…Mary Ann.

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Getting to Murano, Burano or Torcello

  • http://www.venice-guide.info/Water_Bus_Lines_Venice.php
  • There are many tours available which visit the three sister islands. Check with your hotel or a quick internet search will point you in the right direction.
  • Take a water bus or vaporetto. Line 3: Express line between bus station and main station to Murano (Non Stop), journey time about 20 minutes. Line 7: Direct lines between San Marco and Murano. Line 7 runs from the south of Venice to the island of Murano in the north of Venice. Line 12: From Venice to the islands of Murano, Burano, Torcello and Mazzorbo from Fondamente Nove. Line 13: From Venice to the islands of Murano, Vignole and Sant Erasmo. Line 14: From San Marco to Lido, Punta Sabbioni and Burano.
  • Fares: 24 hour unlimited fare, 24€, 12 hour unlimited fare, 18€. One way fare, 7.50€.

In the Line of Fire

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When in Rome…

That is a most popular saying, but truly, when in Rome, there are things you must experience.

The top of my list is gelato! Then there is the Trevi Fountain, The Vatican, countless museums and churches…the list is endless.

At some point on their trip, most visitors find themselves at St. Peter’s Basilica, usually in conjunction to a visit to the Vatican. Church lovers like me, not only find themselves in these famous sanctuaries but also in nearby parish churches.

Despite being just down the block from St. Peter’s Basilica, Santa Maria in Traspontina, a titular church, doesn’t fall too far behind in the beauty or interesting history department and is one sanctuary in the area that should be placed on any visitor’s must-do list.

When it was first constructed, Santa Maria in Traspontina, was located near the Castel San Angelo, traspontina…Italian for beyond the bridge. This church, sadly, was demolished by Pius IV to clear the line of fire for the cannons of the Castel. When plans for a new church were conceived, there was insistence by the papal artillery officers that the dome be low to avoid the previous problem, so instead, the decision was made to erect the church a short distance away, to the west of the Castel.

Construction began in 1566, by architect Sallustio Peruzzi, was continued by Ottavio Mascherino and completed by Francesco Peparelli, who also built the bell tower. Although the exterior is quite congruent to other churches in the area, it is interesting to note that the travertine used to build the façade came from demolition material from the Colosseum.

As I entered the church, I discovered it to be a wide open space, highlighted by a beautifully illustrated ceiling and dome, but devoid of the usual columns that define its spaces. The walls are richly decorated in ochre hues and painted panels depicting religious scenes, while the floors offset its golden decor with black and white patterned tiles.

The Latin cross interior is edged on either side with chapels, the most significant being the chapel of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, built in 1581 by the Marquise of the Guard Victory, Tolfa Orsini. The beautiful statue of the Madonna del Carmine, was placed in the church in 1922, blessed by Pope Pius XI and crowned by Bishop Luigi Pelizzi on the eve of the Feast of Mount Carmel in 1928. Other chapels are devoted to Saints Barbara, Canute, Albert of Trapani, Mary Magdalene De’ Pazzi, Andrew Corsini, Angelo of Sicily, Theresa of Jesus, Peter and Paul, Elijah, Our Lady of Carmel, the Pieta and the Holy Cross.

My eye was immediately drawn to the high altar. Erected as a monument to the beautiful image of the Italian-Byzantine Madonna, it was placed under a rich canopy, dating back to the 13th century (today’s canopy is a 19th century reproduction). The altar was created by local craftsmen and consecrated in 1694. What should not be missed, however is the altarpiece, Icon with the Virgin Mary and Child, which dates back to 1216, and brought from the Holy Land by the Carmelites.

While the church is known for its historical relocation and its dedication to the Blessed Virgin Mary, it is also more recently known for something else…Pachamama. Pachamama is known through the Amazon region as the pagan goddess of fertility. Worship of Pachamama gave way to the veneration of Mary after the Spanish conquest of South American and the eventual conversion of its people. Pagan statues of Pachamama were used in a ceremony during an assembly of Amazon officials in Rome and were then placed at the church’s altar to promote inclusivity…an act met with resistance by many of its faithful. Soon after, the idols were stolen and thrown into the Tiber River, an act recorded and uploaded to the internet. Pope Francis was highly criticized for his responsibility in placing the idols at the altar of the church, a place reserved for its own Icon with the Virgin Mary and Child. While the statues were recovered shortly thereafter, it is interesting to note that Santa Maria in Traspontina houses the office of Father Vincenzo Taraborelli, a Carmelite priest and one of the busiest exorcists in Rome. For those opposed to the Pachamama demon statues, maybe Santa Maria in Traspontina was the perfect place to house them…

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Santa Maria In Traspontina

  • https://www.parrocchiatraspontina.it/
  • Address: Via della Conciliazione 14, Rome, Italy
  • Hours: 0800-1300, 1600-2000, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Mass Times: Sunday and Feast Days, 0800, 0930, 1100, 1215, 1830. Daily, 0730, 0900, 1830. Rosary, daily, 1800.

The Gift

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The mission of the day was to see a fountain.

I saw the fountain, but I also found a church.

Imagine that? Another church in Rome!

After a bit of research, I had learned about the history of the Fontana Delle Cariatidi and the controversy that it had stirred due to its explicit statues and its proximity to a nearby church. Deciding that the fountain was the first thing that I wanted to visit during the beautiful, Roman summer afternoon, I accomplished this feat and the church, San Gioacchino in Prati, less than a block away, became my next calling. It soon became a place that I learned a great deal about the generosity of Catholics throughout the world.

The construction of the church of San Gioacchino began in 1891, to address the problem of the expanding population and movement to the outer perimeters of the city. Pope Leo XIII (whose birth name was Gioacchino Pecci), then the head of the Catholic church, had always desired that a church be built in Rome to honor his patron saint. Because of the need and of his long-standing wish, this church became a gift to him for the celebration of his 50th anniversary of priesthood. The church took a long seven years to be completed due to the mismanagement of the project by Abbe Antonio Brugidou and delays due to natural disasters. The pope, however, persevered and realized his dream and his gift.

Finally opening to its parishioners in 1898, San Gioacchino’s interior was not quite in its finished stages, more specifically, the side chapels. Regardless, it was dedicated to St. Joachim, the father of Mary, the Blessed Mother, consecrated on June 6, 1911 and made a titular church in 1960 (assigned to a member of the clergy who is created a cardinal).

What struck me the most, in a city abound with churches, was its interesting façade, designed and built by architect, Raffael Ingami. While churches are usually known for their amazing art collection and painting on their interiors, this one is graced with beautiful paintings on the exterior, atop the portico, and depict the Blessed Mother, its namesake, St. Joachim, other saints and angels. The gold dome is decorated with perforated burgundy stars.

My walk down the main nave kept my eyes trained on the ceiling, observing its high decorated vault, edged by small, circular stained glass windows and below, a darkened balcony and large columns.

The altar and pulpit were highlighted by a small dark blue dome, awash with ambient light from the perforations in the outer stars and from the stained glass. The beautifully crafted maple pulpit, divided into chiseled panels, depicted scenes from the lives of Saint Peter, Saint Paul, Saint Joachim, Saint Anna, Saint Alfonso de Liguori, Pope Gregory the Great, Saint Agostino, Saint Girolamo and Saint Ambrogio. It was quite hard to appreciate the altar’s stark beauty, but I was willing to excuse the lack of illumination to be able to visit on a weekday and have the place all to myself.

The side altars were what I was most enchanted with, however. While most of the church was in a darkened state, many of the chapels were somewhat illuminated. What I learned about each of these elaborately decorated chapels was that while they were not completed initially, a unique plan was set in place to do so.

Abbe Brugidou, returned to Lyon by Pope Leo XIII for his inadequacy in fulfilling obligations to bring the church’s construction to completion, did have an idea that proved to be astute. Catholics from specific countries around the world were invited to contribute to the project in honor of the pope. Each country that actualized the monetary benefaction, were to have its own chapel. Many countries took part in this process and the construction debts were exculpated quickly.

Moving along each side of the church, I admired these chapels dedicated to the countries of Brazil, Portugal, Bavaria, Poland, Canada, England, United States, Spain, France, Italy, Holland, Belgium, Ireland and Argentina. Each unique and resplendent in the own right, it was quite moving to know that each country cared about a small church in another country, and their pope, to assist it in its realization.

While San Gioacchino may not be the oldest or the most visited church in Rome, it may hold the title of one that achieved a most impossible dream. A true gift.

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San Gioacchino in Prati

  • http://www.sangioacchino.org
  • Address: Pompeo Magno, 25, 00192 Roma RM, Italy
  • Hours: 0800-2000 (unverified)
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Metro, Lepanto (Line A)

Rediscovering Accra

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There is nowhere like Africa.

The smells, the sights, the people!

I had missed being in Accra and was excited to show my friend around on her first sojourn. Once we had visited Black Star Square, a new locale for me, it was time to reacquaint with some “oldies but goodies” and see what else we might discover in the process.

When you walk around the city, you never know what you might encounter…fighting cows, someone’s laundry on a city bench or wall, someone sleeping under a tree, countless vendors hawking their goods. It is always a surprise and usually quite entertaining.

Dodging the hazards of the crumbling sidewalk, we ventured back along 28 September Road towards the Accra Arts Market. Speaking of not knowing what you might find or walk away with, this is the place. I was in search of face masks made of kente cloth and I knew exactly where to look, however, it is quite difficult engaging with the locals who invite you into their booths and remind you that it’s always “free to look”. Although I have countless masks and other oddities from my previous visits, I steeled myself to say no, however, my friend, on her first visit, couldn’t and walked away with a small table!

Purchases aside, we were able to reconnect with my old friend David, a drum maker who works in the market, share a soda and some great gossip!

Since the Kwame Nkrumah monument was a short distance away, I decided that we should stop in for a visit. Although I had been there before, it was nice to see it once again, even if the fountains were all drained and the property a bit unkempt. One of the most interesting things I discovered was in the museum at the back of the property. I had just finished watching the Netflix series, “The Crown” and remembered the episode when Queen Elizabeth danced with President Nkrumah at a ball in Accra in 1961. Right there on the wall was a photo depicting that particular event!


Leaving the property, I suddenly realized a major mistake we made upon our arrival. I really am out of practice… Never tell some of the locals your name unless you want a personalized ornament, shell, bracelet…the possibilities are endless. I understand that they are desperately trying to make a living, but once they had our name (in our case) they made bracelets for each of us with our monikers woven into it and wanted to sell it to us. Sadly, I didn’t have enough money for their asking price (which was quite high) and I felt bad for the amount of time spent making it, so…we came to an agreement of a purchase with a discount.

Continuing on, our next stop was the Holy Trinity Cathedral. This beautiful, stone church was completed in 1894 and was funded by the colonial British government. Fifteen years after its completion, it was deemed a cathedral by the Diocese of Accra.


Having lain my eyes upon many a cathedral in the world, I would say that this one was in no way equal, however, mass was just finishing and the priest warmly welcomed us inside and told us to make ourselves at home. The design was quite interesting with a dark, barrel-vaulted ceiling, a stone-walled interior and red velvet-covered pews, but it was stark in contrast to some of the Italian, Central and South American gilded temples I have set foot in. Nonetheless, it was nice to see the interior and even speak with some of the parishioners who were still gathered outside.

Heading into the Jamestown area, I was hoping that we could tour the Ussher Fort, one of the three forts that Europeans built in the region during the middle of the 17th century. This fort was built by the Dutch and was completed in 1649 and I suspected that we would be able to get some interesting photos in the bright, sunny day. Blaming incorrect internet information, we found the place to be closed, but were still able to sneak a peek at the interior through the barred doorways. Definitely another place for one of my future trips.

After stopping for a cold drink at the colorful Jamestown Cafe, we cut through the area that houses the Makola market. Having seen the market in operation during its peak operations during the week, we found the streets to be relatively deserted…Sundays are really a day of rest for many Ghanaians. A little further, after passing the monument to King Tackie Tawiah, (king of Accra from 1862-1902), we ended up on Independence Avenue with its countless vendors and local market. While Makola was quiet, we found a flurry of activity while hastening our own travels back to our hotel.



Hobbling back to my room, I suddenly realized how much ground we had covered that day. My friend was thrilled to have seen so many interesting sights and met so many interesting people. Me? I was just happy to rediscover one of my favorite African cities!

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Accra Arts Centre

  • Address: Prof. John Evans Atta Mills High Street, Accra Ghana
  • Hours: 0900-1800, daily
  • Admission: free

Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park and Museum

  • Address: Prof. John Evans Atta Mills High Street, Accra Ghana
  • Hours: 0900-1800, daily
  • Admission: 5 cedi (about .83 US)

Holy Trinity Cathedral

  • Address: High Street, Accra Ghana
  • Hours: Unknown
  • Mass Schedule: Unknown
  • Admission: free

Ussher Fort

  • https://www.ghanamuseums.org/ussher-fort-museum.php
  • Address: 33 Prof. Atta Mills High St, Accra, Ghana
  • Hours: Unknown
  • Admission: Pupils from Primary to JHS 3, GH¢ 0.20 (about .04 US), SHS Students, GH¢ 0.50 (about .08 US), Tertiary Students with ID, GH¢ 1.00 (about .16 US), Ghanaian Adults, GH¢ 2.00 (about .33 US), Foreign Children, GH¢ 2.00 (about .33 US), Foreign Students with ID, GH¢ 5.00 (about .83 US), Adult Foreigners, GH¢ 10.00 (about $1.66 US)

Makola Market

  • Address: Kojo Thompson Rd, Accra, GH
  • Hours: 0800-1800, daily
  • Admission: free

El Diario de Guatemala DOCE

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

DIA DOCE

This morning was an important one and I guess that why I was up at 3:30 am.

It was COVID test day!

It really bothers me that another country will allow me to enter with my vaccine card, yet the country where I received my vaccine requires me to have a COVID test to enter and my vaccine card carries no weight. So, on my trip, I have to spend time and money to get this test in order to return home within 72 hours of departure. With clinics not open on Sundays and only half days on Saturdays, you really have to plan accordingly.

My Airbnb host had told me of a clinic nearby that was charging $50, but thankfully, I asked around and found another about three blocks away that charged $35. They were extremely helpful with my questions during the week and greeted me warmly when they arrived.

Yes, I was the first person in line, thanks to my early awakening!

Watching the early deliveries while waiting for the clinic to open.

Heading back to my apartment after my test, I had breakfast and killed some time before heading back to get my negative result!

It was early and the day was looking to be a beautiful one, so I decided to walk to the Colegio Campania de Jesus (which was closed again) and ended up at the Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales in the Plaza Mayor. It’s a small museum that introduces the colonial life during the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries through paintings, furniture and historical artifacts. There is also an important collection of weapons which gives the museum its title.

Colegio Compania de Jesus
Colegio Compania de Jesus
View of Volcan Agua from Plaza Mayor
Plaza Mayor
Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Weapons Exhibit at Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
View from Upper Level of Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales
Walkway in front of Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales

Across the plaza, I headed to the Museo Los Libros, but found it to be closed. I was very disappointed as I had heard that it has a beautiful interior and an interesting collection of books.

Museo Los Libros

Returning to my apartment (after a few shopping stops), I began the arduous process of packing. How do you fit your numerous purchases into your bags that had already come full? Well, that was a work in progress all day!

After lunch, I headed back out, bound for the southernmost part of town. It was a long walk, but I wanted to see El Calvario church. I had learned of this church and their procession during Semana Santa during my last visit. I don’t think we witnessed their procession, but I remember seeing the church’s location on the map and thinking what a long way they had to travel. Along the street leading to El Calvario, I noticed many small chapels that were numbered with Roman numerals. They were locked, but noticing that they led to the church, I assumed (correctly) that they were Stations of the Cross, with the final one on the church grounds.

Stations of the Cross on the way to El Calvario

El Calvario’s exterior was a bright yellow, very different from others in the city and its grounds were well maintained. Entering the church, I found it to be rather minimalistic with a barrel vault and dual-colored stained-glass windows. I didn’t stay long as I was reprimanded for taking photos. What I did learn later was that the church’s walls were once graced with paintings by 18th century colonial artist Tomás de Merlo, which were taken a few years ago by thieves. These paintings which depicted the Passion of the Christ were valued at approximately $300,000 each and were prized possessions of the church. Sadly, they have not been recovered.

El Calvario Church
El Calvario Church
El Calvario Church

One of the highlights of a visit to the church is the Esquisúchil tree in the garden which was planted in 1657 by Holy Saint Hermano Pedro de San Jose de Betancourt, Central America’s only saint. This tree, with its aromatic flowers is believed to have curative powers.

Statue of Holy Saint Hermano Pedro de San Jose de Betancourt and the Esquisúchil tree
The Gardens of El Calvario Church

Soon on my way, I passed the ruins of the old El Calvario church and then the church of San Jose de Viejo, which is still in operation and has the appearance of many of the ruined churches.

Ruins of Old El Calvario Church
The Church of San Jose de Viejo
The Church of San Jose de Viejo

Finally, I took a less direct route home, enjoyed the different scenery, eventually stopping at a Venezuelan restaurant for a quick dinner of pastelitos and tequenos! Yum! That was perfect for an early night!

Sights Around the Antigua
Sights Around the Antigua
Sights Around the Antigua
Sights Around the Antigua
Ermita de Santa Lucia
Ermita de Santa Lucia

Tikal in the morning!!!

What I learned: Bring an extra suitcase to Guatemala for your purchases.

Photo of the day: No parking

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Museo de Caballeros at the Palacio Santiago de Capitanes Generales

  • https://muniantigua.gob.gt/museos-antigua-guatemala/
  • Address: 5th. Calle, Real Palacio de los Capitanes Generales de Guatemala, Antigua, Guatemala
  • Hours: 0630-2230, daily
  • Admission: Adults, national, Q5 (about 64 cents USD), Adults, foreign, Q30 (about $3.90 USD)

Museo Los Libros

  • http://mcd.gob.gt/683/
  • Address: 5a Calle Poniente, Antigua Guatemala
  • Hours: Tuesday to Friday, 0900-1600, Saturday and Sunday, 0900-1200 and 1400-1600
  • Admission: Adults, national, Q2 (about 25 cents USD), Adults, foreign, Q10 (about $1.30 USD).

El Calvario Church

El Diario de Guatemala SIETE

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.


DIA SIETE

Today is D-Day.

This is the day that I see if I made the right decision in switching Spanish schools.
After I made my breakfast, I took the looooonnnngggg walk…across the street… Literally, my kitchen window looks directly at my new school’s door. Yes, as I ate my microwave omelet, I was thinking that this was a sign. An omen. Maybe I was supposed to be at Antiguena Spanish School from the very beginning.

Nervously, I rang the bell and I was greeted by four or five people (teachers, I suppose) and then ushered into the director’s office. After I signed some papers and paid my weekly tuition, I was introduced to my new teacher Patricia.

Patricia was a bit older than my former teacher and as we got started on our lessons, I felt that she was much more experienced. I was confident in my interactions with her and she was very complementary with all of my responses. As the day closed, I felt very good about my lessons, yet was it too early to feel like I had made the right decision? I had also felt very good about my other teacher on the first day…
After I crossed the street and made my lunch, I made a plan for the rest of the afternoon. First, I headed over to a tour agency to inquire about a day trip to Tikal, then I stopped by the local clinic to see what day I could complete my COVID test for my return trip home.

Boring stuff completed, it was on to the fun stuff! Heading north, I walked a few blocks to the ruins of San Sebastián church. Only because we had passed near here on our way to Lake Atitlan was I aware that this church existed. It appeared to be much like the many other churches in the city and I took a couple of quick photographs.

Ruins of Iglesia de San Sebastian
Ruins of Iglesia de San Sebastian

Next, I took a quick tour of the Convent of Iglesia de Merced. Although, this church and ruins was a half a block away from my apartment and I had spent my breaks from school standing in front of the church, I had yet to make it inside this time while I was in Antigua.

Iglesia de La Merced
Iglesia de La Merced

It was wonderful to be back, but yes, I wish that the fountain which is the centerpiece of the property (and the largest in Central America), had been operating.
I had also looked forward to seeing the spectacular views of the volcanoes in the distance, but as I made my way to the top level of the cloister, a light rain was starting to move in. The horizon was cloudy so the only view I had was of the surrounding homes and businesses. As I stood near the railing, spying on the Mercedarian’s beautiful courtyard, I spotted something familiar. Next door was the courtyard of my old school. Thank goodness no one was looking up because I’m not supposed to be in town! Don’t ask…

Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Convent of La Merced
Mercedarian Courtyard
Do Pedro de Alvarado Spanish School Courtyard
Iglesia de La Merced
Iglesia de La Merced
Iglesia de La Merced
Iglesia de La Merced

Despite the rain, I headed over to one of my favorite landmarks, the Capuchin Convent. I was banking on the rain stopping and I won that bet. Not long after I arrived, the skies cleared and I was able to enjoy the cloister and grounds of this amazing property. It’s no wonder that people choose this location for wedding and quinceanera photos as well the actual weddings themselves.

Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas Crypt
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas
Convento Capuchinas

Something I had been noticing at many of the ruins really bothered me…people carving their names into the ancient walls….Jacky y Berna, D y G…a lot of these names were surrounded by hearts suggesting that young lovers had visited together and wanted to record their dying affection. Well, I discovered something else today. Locals can visit the ruins for a modest sum…about 25 cents compared to my entrance fee, as a foreigner, of about $5.00. As most families have multiple generations living under the same roof, this doesn’t offer young people much privacy. Guess where the young lovers go to spend time together? Apparently, the Capuchin Convent is a popular place with its many dark former nun’s cells. Yes, I walked in on not just one couple, but a few!

On my way home tonight, I was thinking about all of the wonderful restaurants in the city. There was a bar and grill that I walked by every day as it was only three doors down from my apartment. Appearances are always very deceiving in Antigua with storefronts hiding what’s really deep inside…beautiful courtyards and interiors. As I walked by this particular restaurant, I was realizing that I had to figure out what I was going to do for dinner. On a whim and drawn in by the amazing Latin music, I decided to have a seat and dinner. I was craving a burger and when the waitress took my order she asked if I wanted two!

Am I so fat that I look like I can eat so much?

It was actually “two-for-one” night and she offered to package one of the burgers up for me to take home. I wasn’t really expecting much but when my plate arrived, I was greeted by the largest burger I have ever seen! And not only was it big, but it was muy delicioso!!! The best part was that for two gigantic burgers, fries and three beers, my bill came to a whopping $15.00.

I’d say that was a good way to end the day! New day, new teacher, new favorite restaurant!

What I learned: Be mindful when entering darkened rooms at the landmarks of Antigua!

Photo of the day: Convento Capuchinas

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Antiguena Spanish Academy

  • https://www.spanishacademyantiguena.com/
  • Address: 1a Calle Poniente #10 Antigua Guatemala, Sacatepequez 03001
  • Rates: $ 110 one-week classes, 4 hours, 5 days from 0800-1200. $ 135 one-week classes, 5 hours, 5 days from 0800-1300. $ 165 one-week classes, 6 hours, 5 days from 0800-1200 and 1400-1600 or 1600-1800. $ 175 one-week for both (not each), if you and a friend shared a teacher 4 hours, 5 days. $90 one-week classes, 4 hours, 5 days, 1300-1700.

Antigua Parroquia San Sebastian (ruins)

  • Address: H777+P9 Antigua, Guatelmala on Plazuela San Sebastian

Church and Convent of Our Lady of La Merced

  • Address: 1a Calle Poniente & 6a Avenida Norte, Antigua, Guatemala
  • Hours: Church, 0830-1745, Convent, 0830-1200 and 1400-1745
  • Admission: Adults, Q40 (about $5.00 USD)

Convento Capuchinas

  • Address: Av Norte at 2 Calle Oriente 2, Centro, Antigua, Guatemala
  • Hours: 0900-1700, daily
  • Admission: Adults, national Q5 (about 60 cents USD), Adults, foreign, Q40 (about $5.00)

Puerta Once Antigua (Door Eleven)

El Diario de Guatemala SEIS

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.


DIA SEIS

Sunday mornings are for sleeping in.

One would think, right?

Then why were my eyes wide open at 5:30 a.m.?

So…I edited pictures, checked Facebook, studied Spanish (of course), cooked a big breakfast (that I ate in bed), watched television and listened to the neighbor’s (very loud) conversations…

Finally, I just got up and dressed for the day. The sun was shining and the sky a brilliant blue…so perfect, in fact, that it was the first day I was able to wear shorts.
As I walked out of my apartment, I ran into a young man that I had met while touring my new school’s facilities. He was from Brighton, England and he was very impressed that I actually knew where his hometown was located. I was disappointed to find that he had decided to go with another school, but as I had learned, everyone has to find the right fit! Jack and I parted ways and I headed to the restaurant that I had had lunch on my first day, El Troccoli…their caprese panini was calling my name!

From my vantage point at the table near the window, I marveled at how alive the streets were. People were everywhere! It was obvious, even more so, when I made it down to the Plaza Mayor and from the traffic, that visitors descend on the city during the weekends in droves!

There was a church that I did not have the opportunity to visit two years ago. The Capilla Nuestra Senora de Belen. It’s in the southwestern part of the city and gave me the opportunity for some exercise.

Capilla Nuestra Senora de Belen
Capilla Nuestra Senora de Belen


The church sits in a small park and although I found it to be closed, I was still impressed with its architectural elements on the church’s and chapel’s facades.
A couple of blocks away, I stumbled upon Iglesia Escuela de Cristo. Standing in the park across the street, I watched the patrons exit after mass. Noting that I was wearing shorts, I didn’t feel comfortable entering boldly. I hung near the doors and tried to slide in unnoticed, but one of the ushers took his place a few feet away, saying “Adios” to everyone. Finally, I gathered the courage to ask him to if it were okay to take one photo…thank goodness he said yes! I later learned that there is a beautiful convent is on the premises (not open to the public) and this is the church where the wake was held for the Hermano Pedro, Central America’s only saint. For those familiar with Antigua’s architecture, it should look familiar as it was designed by architect Diego de Porres, who designed the Fountain of the Sirens in the Plaza Mayor and other buildings throughout the city.

Iglesia Escuela de Cristo
Iglesia Escuela de Cristo

My next stop was the Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande. We had visited this beautiful church during our last trip and we loved that there are many food and craft vendors within the church grounds. Although the church was closed, I was able to visit the tomb of Santo Hermano Pedro and then made an interesting discovery. What we had missed during our first visit because of the massive crowds on the premises for Semana Santa, was the Museo de Santo Hermano Pedro and ruins. The museum was extremely interesting as were the grounds and ruins. I know that most people might think that the ruins within the city appear to be similar, but I love investigating the uniqueness of each.

Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Museum of Santo Hermano Pedro at Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Ruins of Sanctuario San Francisco el Grande
The Tomb of Santo Hermano Pedro

Continuing my explorations of the city, I headed in the direction of the Museum of Semana Santa. Wouldn’t you know it’s open one day a month and that day had just passed?

Museo Semana Santa

I decided then to make my way toward Casa Santo Domingo passing the ruins of Iglesia de la Concepcion. Near the city’s entrance, I came upon a granizadas cart. Most people would be afraid to eat or drink things from the street in another country, but it sounded so good at the moment as I was sweating profusely, I decided to get one of the icy treats. Almost like a snow cone, the granizada was topped with pineapple and la lechera, sweetened condensed milk. It was extremely refreshing and after sitting on a bench in the shade, I was ready to go to my next stop.

The Ruins of Iglesia de la Concepcion

Casa Santa Domingo is a hotel in Antigua, but it also contains a couple of museums and ancient ruins. It was a good thing I was there during that time of day and in the museums because the skies opened up and gave the city a good washing!

Casa Santo Domingo Hotel
Casa Santo Domingo Hotel
Casa Santo Domingo Hotel
Museum of Santo Domingo
The Ruins of Santo Domingo
The Ruins of Santo Domingo
The Church of Santo Domingo
The Crypt of Santo Domingo
The Crypt of Santo Domingo
Museum of Santo Domingo
Museum of Santo Domingo
Museum of Santo Domingo
Casa Santo Domingo Hotel

Finally, with aching feet, I was hobbling back to my apartment when I came upon the Plaza Mayor, once again. The park was still bustling and I decided that I might have the strength in me for one more landmark. The 16th century Antigua Guatemala Cathedral. These ruins and church hold a special place in my heart as it was the first thing that my son and I encountered when we arrived two years ago. It was the end of the day and there weren’t many people inside of the cathedral ruins, so I was able to get some beautiful photographs and then say a prayer inside the church.

Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Ruins of Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Antigua Guatemala Cathedral
Antigua Guatemala Cathedral


I then decided that I had seen so much more that I had planned for the day and it was definitely time to take an Aleve, have dinner and put my feet up.

I was here for school, first and foremost, but how can you not want to see everything that this beautiful colonial city is known for?

What I learned: Wear good shoes when traversing the city!

Photo of the day: Antigua Guatemala Cathedral Ruins

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Casa Troccoli

Iglesia de Belen

Iglesia Escuela de Cristo

Santuario San Francisco el Grande and Museo del Hermano Pedro

Casa Santo Domingo

  • https://www.casasantodomingo.com.gt/
  • Address: 3a Calle Oriente 28, Centro Histórico, Antigua, Guatemala 03001
  • Hours: Museum hours, Monday to Saturday, 0900-1800, Sunday, 1100-1800
  • Admission: Adults, foreign, Q40 (about $5.00 USD)

Catedral San Jose

Catedral de San Jose

El Diario de Guatemala TRES

©2021 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.


DIA TRES

Today I woke up eager to return to my classes and show off my stuff! I was feeling pretty good about yesterday!

I guess the day had other plans for me. First of all, my stove top wouldn’t heat up my pan and it took me about 20 minutes to cook my eggs, causing me to have to run to school, sans mask, getting a few dirty looks and making me arrive about a minute late. One minute late doesn’t sound so bad to most people but the flight attendant in me was freaking out…this “plane” was late and I hate making anyone wait.

My lessons began and I started out telling Heydi about my day yesterday. I was able to describe in Spanish, in pretty good detail about my trip to San Jeronimo, the supermarket, what I bought and what I had for dinner as well as what I watched on Netflix.

After this, she insisted on trying to teach me some verbs I didn’t know. The nerve! These verbs had very different endings and I was so confused. This led me to continually make simple mistakes…mistakes on things I actually knew which was completely frustrating!

She gave me homework and told me that I really need to study. Of course, I knew that I was going to have to study, but I just felt very degraded after class.
I returned to my Airbnb, made some mini quesadillas and eyed my cerveza…in that moment I felt like I really could use a beer! Later. There were things to see in the city!

The sun was out and it was warmer than usual, so I decided that I needed a little field trip and some exercise. Walking toward the north of the city, I began the climb to the top of Cerro de la Cruz, the hill that overlooks the city and sports a large cross. A few hundred steps later, I was sitting on the wall, gazing over the city and praying that the clouds would part a little more so that I could see the top of the Volcan de Agua, the volcano that towers over the area.

Cerro de la Cruz
Cerro de la Cruz
Cerro de la Cruz

While gazing over the city, I had spotted the ruins of the convent, Santa Maria Teresa De Jesus and decided that this would be my next destination. As I headed down the hill, I first stopped at the remains of the Church of Candelaria, captured a few photos and then walked to the convent. It had been one of the first ruins that my son, Ian, and I had visited two years ago and we had enjoyed its beautiful cloister and fountain. I spent some time meandering through its many rooms and was just about to leave when the gentleman who sold me my ticket asked me a question (in Spanish).

The ruins of the Church of Candelaria

Santa Maria Teresa De Jesus

“Did you see the crypt and the basilica?”

Um, no.

He showed me on the map, adjacent to the door, the layout of the building and pointing to a set of stairs in a room, that I had not entered as I thought it to be a storage room.

I followed his directions and amazingly, there was a set of steps leading down into a room which also led to the ruins of the basilica. In the far corner, there was also a set of stairs leading to the old crypt.

There was nothing much in the crypt, but as I headed back up and into the basilica, I was simply amazed. Not just because you could still see much of the workmanship being restored, but because it is baffling that visitors are allowed in this area of construction…scaffolding, tools, bags of cement and goodness knows what else filled the space. In the United States, this would have been condemned and no one allowed near, much less in the building. Despite the mess, it was wonderful to see this space up close, as I had only spied it from the street, behind the gate.

Thanking the gentleman, we exchanged pleasantries (in Spanish, of course) and I explained that I was in Antigua for Spanish school. He asked how long I had been there and I said it was my second day. He told me I was very smart for learning that much in just two days! Lol! I got a good laugh out of that but I went on letting him believe I was muy inteligente!

Continuing my explorations, I admired the architecture of the area and the unique doors and doorknockers and then headed over to the El Carmen market, pausing to snap a few photos of the ruins of El Carmen church next door.

Ruins of El Carmen Catholic Church
Ruins of El Carmen Catholic Church

I had vowed not to buy anything early in my trip, but next thing you know I was walking out with a table runner. Okay, I am a bit of a sucker sometimes…it was Father’s Day in Guatemala, after all, and he hadn’t had a sale all day!

Mercado de Artesanias El Carmen

As I exited the market, I heard a large boom! Praying it wasn’t one of the nearby volcanoes, I realized that I was feeling a few raindrops!

Time to go home.

What do you do when it’s pouring outside?

Have happy hour!

That was a good ending to the day that didn’t start so well!

What I learned: There are many hidden treasures in Guatemala, you just have to talk to the right person, in the right language, to find them!

Photo of the day: The Cloister of Convento Santa Teresa de Jesus

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Cerro de La Cruz

  • Address: Al final de la 1ª Avenida Norte, Antigua, Guatemala 03001
  • Hours: 0700-1800, daily
  • Admission: free

Convento Santa Teresa De Jesus

  • Address: 1era calle Oriente y 4a Avenida sur. Antigua Guatemala
  • Hours: 0800-1700, daily
  • Admission: Q40 (about $5.50 US)

Mercado de Artesanias El Carmen

  • Address: Avenida 3ra, 3ra Calle Oriente, Antigua 03001
  • Hours: 0800-2000, daily