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The mission of the day was to see a fountain.
I saw the fountain, but I also found a church.
Imagine that? Another church in Rome!
After a bit of research, I had learned about the history of the Fontana Delle Cariatidi and the controversy that it had stirred due to its explicit statues and its proximity to a nearby church. Deciding that the fountain was the first thing that I wanted to visit during the beautiful, Roman summer afternoon, I accomplished this feat and the church, San Gioacchino in Prati, less than a block away, became my next calling. It soon became a place that I learned a great deal about the generosity of Catholics throughout the world.
The construction of the church of San Gioacchino began in 1891, to address the problem of the expanding population and movement to the outer perimeters of the city. Pope Leo XIII (whose birth name was Gioacchino Pecci), then the head of the Catholic church, had always desired that a church be built in Rome to honor his patron saint. Because of the need and of his long-standing wish, this church became a gift to him for the celebration of his 50th anniversary of priesthood. The church took a long seven years to be completed due to the mismanagement of the project by Abbe Antonio Brugidou and delays due to natural disasters. The pope, however, persevered and realized his dream and his gift.
Finally opening to its parishioners in 1898, San Gioacchino’s interior was not quite in its finished stages, more specifically, the side chapels. Regardless, it was dedicated to St. Joachim, the father of Mary, the Blessed Mother, consecrated on June 6, 1911 and made a titular church in 1960 (assigned to a member of the clergy who is created a cardinal).
What struck me the most, in a city abound with churches, was its interesting façade, designed and built by architect, Raffael Ingami. While churches are usually known for their amazing art collection and painting on their interiors, this one is graced with beautiful paintings on the exterior, atop the portico, and depict the Blessed Mother, its namesake, St. Joachim, other saints and angels. The gold dome is decorated with perforated burgundy stars.
My walk down the main nave kept my eyes trained on the ceiling, observing its high decorated vault, edged by small, circular stained glass windows and below, a darkened balcony and large columns.
The altar and pulpit were highlighted by a small dark blue dome, awash with ambient light from the perforations in the outer stars and from the stained glass. The beautifully crafted maple pulpit, divided into chiseled panels, depicted scenes from the lives of Saint Peter, Saint Paul, Saint Joachim, Saint Anna, Saint Alfonso de Liguori, Pope Gregory the Great, Saint Agostino, Saint Girolamo and Saint Ambrogio. It was quite hard to appreciate the altar’s stark beauty, but I was willing to excuse the lack of illumination to be able to visit on a weekday and have the place all to myself.
The side altars were what I was most enchanted with, however. While most of the church was in a darkened state, many of the chapels were somewhat illuminated. What I learned about each of these elaborately decorated chapels was that while they were not completed initially, a unique plan was set in place to do so.
Abbe Brugidou, returned to Lyon by Pope Leo XIII for his inadequacy in fulfilling obligations to bring the church’s construction to completion, did have an idea that proved to be astute. Catholics from specific countries around the world were invited to contribute to the project in honor of the pope. Each country that actualized the monetary benefaction, were to have its own chapel. Many countries took part in this process and the construction debts were exculpated quickly.
Moving along each side of the church, I admired these chapels dedicated to the countries of Brazil, Portugal, Bavaria, Poland, Canada, England, United States, Spain, France, Italy, Holland, Belgium, Ireland and Argentina. Each unique and resplendent in the own right, it was quite moving to know that each country cared about a small church in another country, and their pope, to assist it in its realization.
While San Gioacchino may not be the oldest or the most visited church in Rome, it may hold the title of one that achieved a most impossible dream. A true gift.
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San Gioacchino in Prati
- http://www.sangioacchino.org
- Address: Pompeo Magno, 25, 00192 Roma RM, Italy
- Hours: 0800-2000 (unverified)
- Admission: free
- Getting There: Metro, Lepanto (Line A)