The Climb To the Castle

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

How high can you get in Barcelona?

Very high!

There are some amazing places in Barcelona to get beautiful views of the city.

The Montjuic Castle, the sight of an old military fortress, was a place I had been vowing to visit on one of my trips to Barcelona, yet, I just hadn’t been there with a day clear enough to take advantage of its orientation high above the city and the fantastic views it offered.

Starting my journey, I ventured out to the Plaza d’Espana metro station so that I could walk up the steps to the Museum of National Art of Catalonia and get a bit of exercise. The views here are also incredible as is the architecture and the Magic Fountain which can be seen in all its glory during operating hours (see schedule below).

Passing the gardens along Passeig de Santa Madrona, I made my way to the Avinguda de L’Estadi and the Telefèric de Montjuïc . Always looking for a fun way to travel, I assumed that the
telefèric would be an amazing way to get up to the castle…and to be honest, I was quite tired!

Thrilled to find no line, I was able to secure my own cable car, allowing for optimum photographic opportunities. However, with the car being so light and the wind so strong, the swinging of the car from side to side was a bit daunting as we made the final stretch of the journey to the castle.

Stepping out of the telefèric station, I was happy to find the castle’s location right alongside, providing some instant photographic gratification.

Heading to the front of the castle, I found it to be much larger than I had anticipated and I admired the four bastions at each corner of the curtain wall. Crossing the bridge to the castle, which traversed the Santa Eulàlia Moat, I discovered it to be no longer filled with water, but with beautiful flowers and grassy areas.

Purchasing my ticket, I ventured onto the castle’s sea wall. There are many pieces of artillery and sculpture and entryways to the castle’s dungeon, but the most stunning is the 360º views of the port, the Mediterranean, the coastline and the area of Baix Llobregat.

Making my way around the castle I admired the architecture and the landscaping, eyeing the fruit trees at the rear of the property which made me realize how hungry I was, thinking maybe I would have to check out the cafe.

Entering the interior courtyard of the castle, the parade grounds, I ventured through the passageways, enjoying the displays at the rear of the castle highlighting the Mountain of Barcelona and how its position in the city has affected historical events, the Prison and Memory of Barcelona which tells about the castle’s history as a military prison and an exhibit which details The Search of Freedom.

Finally making my way to the terrace, the highest point of the castle, I took in the amazing views of Barcelona, Montjuïc Hill and the castle itself. On the roof, above the entrance, standing tall, is the square watchtower that signaled the arrival of ships through a system of sails during the day and bonfires at night. On the tower’s eastern and western facades, there are two sundials, dating back to 1777, which once was responsible for giving the time in the morning (eastern facing) and for the afternoon (western facing). A plaque on the base of the tower describes the tower as the location where the French astronomer Pierre Méchain obtained the geographical coordinates of Barcelona in 1792 and 1793 and established the trig point that would serve to measure the meridian from Dunkirk. The length of this meridian, linking Barcelona, Paris and Dunkirk, was used as the basis of the metric system.

From a sign posted near the tower, I learned that tours of the watchtower are conducted three to four times a day in both English and Catalan. Since I had missed the tour times, I had to content myself with enjoying the views from the outside. Making a mental note of the tour times, I decided that it would be important to plan the next visit according to the times posted, as I discovered that the guide also takes you down to the dungeons where extensive graffiti has been uncovered, made by those were imprisoned there during different stages of the building’s history.

As I headed back to towards the parade grounds, I located the cafe and eyed the sweet offerings in its showcase. Since it was later in the day, I decided to save my appetite for dinner and enjoy a cold beer in the courtyard instead. It was an amazing end to my day, soaking up both the architectural history and the warm afternoon sun.

As the afternoon came to a close, I wandered back the way I had come, to the telefèric station. Once again, I was able to secure a cable car for myself, only this time, the city was aglow in the light of the setting sun.

After exploring such a beautiful historical setting, I couldn’t image more of a magical ending to a fantastic day. So amazing to be soaring high above the amazing city of Barcelona!

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Monjuic Castle

  • http://ajuntament.barcelona.cat/castelldemontjuic/en
  • Address: Ctra. de Montjuïc, 66, 08038 Barcelona, Spain
  • Hours: March 1 until November 1, 1000-2000, daily. November 2 until February 28, 1000-1800, daily. Closed December 25 and January 1.
  • Admission: Standard admission, 5€, Reduced admission, 3€. Free admission on the first Sunday of the month and Sundays after 1500. Guided tours lasting 1 hour are offered at 1100 and 1500 each day and let visitors discover places within the castle not normally open to the public. Tours, 4€
  • Getting There: By foot. The walk uphill to Montjuïc Castle from the top of the funicular (lower station, Paral.lel, metro lines 2 and 3), adjacent to the cable car station, takes about 20 to 25 minutes. By public transportation. Bus, line 150, origin Avinguda de la reina Maria Cristina, terminus Montjuïc Castle. Bus 150 goes round Montjuïc Hill before finally reaching the Castle. The ride from Plaça d’Espanya takes about 20 minutes. The descent from the Castle to the beginning of the line also takes 20 minutes. Bus 150 also connects with the
    Telefèric de Montjuïc at the bus stop Avinguda de Miramar-Estació del Funicular. The cable car service begins in Avinguda Miramar and leaves visitors in front of the Castle. It has three stops, the first in Avinguda Miramar, one in the middle in the Plaça de la Sardana, and one in front of the Castle. The price of the cable car does not include admission to the Castle. By car. If you arrive by private vehicle, there is a large public car park near the castle on Carrer dels Tarongers.


Telefèric de Montjuïc

  • https://www.telefericdemontjuic.cat/es
  • Address: Avinguda Miramar, 30, 08038 Barcelona, Spain
  • Hours: November-February 1000-1800, daily. March-May, 1000-1900, daily. June-September, 1000-2100, daily. October, 1000-1900, daily.
  • Admission: Adults, 8,40€, one-way, 12,70€ roundtrip. Children, ages 4-12, 6,60€, one-way, 9,20€ roundtrip. Children under age 4, free.

Magic Fountain

  • https://www.barcelona.cat/en/what-to-do-in-bcn/magic-fountain/magic-fountains-show-times
  • Hours: November 1 until January 6, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2000-2100, music and color, 2000 and 2030. January 7 until February 28, closed for maintenance. March 1 until March 31, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2000-2100, music and color, 2000 and 2030. April 1 until May 31, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2100-2200, music and color, 2100 and 2130. June 1 until September 30, Wednesday to Sunday, 2130-2230, music and color, 2130 and 2200. October 1 until October 31, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, 2100-2200, music and color, 2100 and 2130.
  • Admission: free

Inescapable

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Clint Eastwood made it out.

But…that was just a movie.

In reality, during the twenty-nine years of operation, Alcatraz Federal Penitentiary held fast to its claim that it was inescapable. Thirty-six prisoners made fourteen escape attempts (two men tried twice). Of these escapees, twenty-three were caught alive, six were shot and killed during their attempt, two drowned and five were listed as missing and presumed drowned.

From 1934 until 1963, the isolated Alcatraz Island maintained a lighthouse, a military fortification, a military prison and a federal prison. Some of the most infamous criminals were housed here, including Al Capone, Robert Franklin Stroud (the “Birdman of Alcatraz”), George “Machine Gun” Kelly, Bumpy Johnson, Rafael Cancel Miranda, Mickey Cohen, Arthur R. “Doc” Barker and Alvin “Creepy” Karpis.

Today, Alcatraz Island is only home to thousands of nesting birds, the well-preserved prison and other buildings and can be visited via tours from the mainland.

It had been many years since I had visited the famous attraction and I was excited to return since I didn’t remember much about my former visit. Since tickets to visit Alcatraz usually sell out each day, once I arrived in San Francisco, my first order of business was to book the tour. Selecting an afternoon departure from Pier 33, I anticipated spending a couple of hours making our way through the site.

On the day of our tour, we were ushered on to the Alcatraz Cruises boat with hundreds of other guests and prepared for the fifteen minute cruise to the island. The boat’s flag fluttered in the wind and we watched the mainland grow smaller as Alcatraz grew larger.

Soon we were making our way across the gangway to the open space at the ranger’s station. A park ranger gave us an introduction to the history of the island and then we were free to meander. A short movie gave us a brief history of the prison and the island and as we walked around, we admired the buildings, many in decline, that made up the premises.

Heading into the Main Prison area, where we would collect our Cellhouse Audio Tour guide, we noted that this was the area where prisoners were readied to be introduced to their confinement. It was here that prisoners were given their uniforms and required to take a shower in one of the long, open-air shower stalls.

This was the start of life in Alcatraz.

Listening to the start of my audio tour, I walked into the main prison area. Here, rows and rows of small cubicles in Cell Blocks B and C, each with a toilet, sink and cot, were displayed before me, once the home to a large prison population. These small cells were only 5 feet by 9 feet wide and each housed one prisoner.

The audio tour, the highlight of an Alcatraz Prison visit, is narrated by the some of the ex-prisoners and the correctional officers and describes the life they lived here at Alcatraz. Knowing that some of these narrators are no longer with us lent to the eerie feeling of this extinct facility.

It was interesting to hear the stories of the attempted prison breaks and even see the dummy that was made to fool the guards into thinking that the prisoner was still asleep in his bed. Cell Block D, was also fascinating, because it was here that the most dangerous criminals were kept. Though these cells were a little more spacious, prisoners were confined twenty-four hours a day and only allowed one visit to the recreation yard per week…alone.

Yet, it was “The Hole” that captured my attention. When prisoners were not cooperative, they were confined in “The Hole”, a dark room, with no interaction with the general population. As I stood inside this cramped, darkened space, even with the door open, it was understandable that many of the prisoners were mentally affected by their time here.

Our audio tour guided us through the kitchen and dining areas, where the inmates consumed their meals (reportedly the best in the system) and even into the recreation yard where they were allowed to exercise in the cool, bay air each day.

Continuing on, we were guided through the library, where many prisoners sought escape through books and even some attempted to better themselves through self-education. The visitation area was nearby and a place where prisoners could enjoy a visit from a loved one, once a month, with approval from the warden. No physical touching was allowed and inmates were forbidden to discuss current events or relate anything concerning prison life. Conversations were conducted via intercom and monitored by a correctional officer. Not adhering to the rules would result in a loss of the visiting privileges as well as other entitlements.

During Alcatraz’s operating years, there were many civilians that resided on the island, including women and children, families of the correctional officers and the Warden, employed at Alcatraz. You can walk through the rooms that served as work areas for these employees and see some of the primary living areas that housed them and their families. These families enjoyed their own bowling alley, soda fountain shop and convenience store, though most conducted their larger shopping trips on the mainland, employing the use of the prison boat which made twelve scheduled runs to the Van Ness Street Pier each day.

Due to rising costs and a deteriorating facility, however, the decision was made to shut down the prison in 1963. Prisoners were transferred to other facilities throughout the United States and all civilians were required to vacate the premises.

In 1969, eighty-nine American Indians decided to venture out to the island to make Alcatraz their home during a nineteen month occupation and protest. The group, Indians of All Tribes, wanted all retired, abandoned or out-of-use federal land returned to the Native People, who once occupied it, and felt that Alcatraz met this definition. Though the occupation ended with no resolution, you can still see traces of their time here.

Stepping out of the rear of the prison into the bright sunshine, made me realize how confining prison life could be, even for those who worked there. The beautiful views, however, would make anyone realize that life here on Alcatraz had to be better than life in any other penitentiary system in the United States.

Catching our boat back to the mainland, we pulled away from the dock, heading out into the bay. Looking back at Alcatraz in the distance, I reflected on the stories of the attempted escapes. Though it was a beautiful, sunny day, it was quite cool on the water. Anyone thinking they could make their way in these chilly waters must have been quite desperate, yet thought that it could be done. Of the attempted escapes, there were five missing and presumed drowned.

Presumed drowned. Yes, possible.

But, perhaps they are still out there, enjoying freedom yet keeping their stories of their time in the historic Alcatraz close to the vest.

No one knows for sure.

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Alcatraz Island

  • https://www.nps.gov/alca/index.htm
  • https://www.alcatrazcruises.com/
  • Address: San Francisco, CA 94133
  • Hours: Varies according to tour selected
  • Admission: Early Bird Tour and Day Tour, $39.90 , Adult and Junior (12-17 years) $39.90, Child (ages 5-11), $24.40, Senior (62 years+), $37.65, Night Tour, Adults and Junior (12-17 years), $47.30, Child (ages 5-11), $28.00, Senior (62 years+), $44.00, Behind the Scenes Tour, Ages 13 and up only, Adult, $92.30, Junior (12-17 years) $88.25, Senior (62 years+), $86.00, Alcatraz and Angel Island Tour, Adult and Junior (12-17 years) $78.65,
    Child (ages 5-11), $52.40, Senior (62 years+), $76.40

Biking the Bridge

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

What do you think of when you think of San Francisco?

I think of the Golden Gate Bridge.

The iconic suspension bridge that spans the mile-wide strait that connects San Francisco Bay and the Pacific Ocean, also connects the city of San Francisco to Marin County on the northern tip of the San Francisco Peninsula. It has been described as one of the most beautiful bridges in the world and is certainly one of the most photographed.

A photograph is what I wanted most, but then I heard that you could walk across the bridge and I knew that that was something I was going to do.

After a quick lunch at Pier 39, we had decided that we were going to walk to the Golden Gate Bridge. Looking down the coast, however, we realized that it was really far.

So…how were we going to get there?

Uber? Bus? Trolley?

Stepping out onto the boardwalk, we found our answer.

Bicycle.

Blazing Saddles Bike Rental was offering bikes for rent and advertising, “Bike the Bridge”. Yes, this was the way to go!

Paying our rental fees, we hopped on one of the bikes that the staff pulled out for us and headed down the boardwalk that parallels The Embarcadero.

An easy ride during the warm afternoon, we stopped every so often to photograph and enjoy some of the landmarks that dot the coastline…the Ferry Arch, Fisherman’s Wharf, the Maritime Museum, the pier at Aquatic Park Cove, Ghiradelli Square. Continuing on, we made our way past Fort Mason, the Marina District Lighthouse, Palace of the Fine Arts and Crissy Field, where we now had unobstructed views of the the stately bridge.

Wishing we had thought to bring some water with us, we were able to get some just before heading onto the bridge at the Golden Gate Bridge Welcome Center. Resting for a few minutes, we noticed how many people were engaged by their tour guides before heading on to the bridge.

We peddled on to the bridge, artfully dodging tourists attempting to walk four and five abreast, not realizing they were sharing the walkway with two-wheeled vehicles. Happy that we had bike bells, we rang them occasionally, passing the hundreds of people making their way across the 1.7 mile span.

It was so exciting to look up at this engineering marvel while we rode along, stopping occasionally for the requisite selfie.

Finally, making it to the H. Dana Bower Rest Area, we were able to get our land legs back and enjoy the stunning views of the bridge. Our plan had been to continue on from here along the pathway to Sausalito, enjoy a drink and take the ferry back to San Francisco, however, taking a look at the time, we were concerned about the ferry schedule and if we had sufficient time to make it back to return our bikes. Instead, we decided to head back across the bridge, the way we came.

Not realizing that the bike traffic was now directed to the other side of the bridge, we rode along leisurely until we were almost back to the other side. Here (oops!), a cop stopped us and informed us that we had to hop off of our bikes and walk them for the rest of the way on the bridge.

Slowing our progress, we finally reached the mainland and hopped back on. Continuing on our way, we realized that we were making good time so we slowed our pace, enjoying the views, even stopping to walk around the Palace of Fine Arts…a lovely setting on a beautiful day!

Taking one last look at the Golden Gate Bridge, we realized just how far we had traveled and what we had accomplished.

Yes, that is definitely what I envision when I think of San Francisco!

Next time, however, we simply need to leave earlier so we can check out Sausalito!

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The Golden Gate Bridge

  • http://www.goldengatebridge.org/\
  • Address: Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, CA
  • Pedestrian Hours: Pedestrians, including persons with disabilities using mobility devises such as wheelchairs, are allowed access ONLY on the East Sidewalk (side facing San Francisco). The hours vary seasonally as follows…Pacific Standard Time,East Sidewalk hours are 5 am to 6:30 pm. Automatically-controlled gates close at 6:30 pm and reopen at 5 am. Daylight Savings Time,East Sidewalk hours are 5 am to 9 pm. Automatically-controlled gates close at 9 pm and reopen at 5 am.
  • Bicycle Hours: Sidewalk hours during Pacific Standard Time (first Sunday in November to second Sunday in March. Weekdays, 5:00 am to 3:30 pm: EAST sidewalk. 3:30 pm to 6:30 pm: WEST sidewalk 6:30 pm to 5:00 am: EAST sidewalk, via remotely-controlled security gates located at both ends of the EAST sidewalk.
    Cyclists press the “buzzer” located near the closed security gate. After security staff locates the cyclist on a security camera, the gate is opened remotely. Cyclists repeat this procedure to get through the security gate at the other end of the sidewalk. Weekends and Holidays, 5:00 am to 6:30 pm: WEST sidewalk 6:30 pm to 5:00 am: EAST sidewalk, via remotely-controlled security gates located at both ends of the EAST sidewalk. Cyclists press the “buzzer” located near the closed security gate. After security staff locates the cyclist on a security camera, the gate is opened remotely. Cyclists repeat this procedure to get through the security gate at the other end of the sidewalk. Sidewalk hours during Daylight Saving Time (second Sunday in March to first Sunday in November. Weekdays, 5:00 am to 3:30 pm: EAST sidewalk. 3:30 pm to 9:00 pm: WEST sidewalk 09:00 pm to 5:00 am: EAST sidewalk, via remotely-controlled security gates located at both ends of the EAST sidewalk. Weekends and Holidays, 5:00 am to 9:00 pm: WEST sidewalk 9:00 pm to 5:00 am: EAST sidewalk, via remotely-controlled security gates located at both ends of the EAST sidewalk.
  • Admission: free
  • Bicycle Access on EAST and WEST Sidewalks. Cyclists have toll-free access to the Bridge’s sidewalks 24-hours a day. Cyclists MUST yield to pedestrians and use caution in the areas of the towers as there is limited space to maneuver and sight distances are constrained. Electric bicycles may be ridden on the sidewalks; however they must be pedaled and may NOT be used under power while on the sidewalk.

Palace of Fine Arts

Seeing the Sea Lions

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Pier 39 was opened in 1978 as an entertainment, dining and shopping venue and has attracted thousands of visitors since its inception.

It has also attracted something else.

Sea Lions.

While sea lions have always been present in San Francisco Bay, they have only become a tourist attraction since 1989. Having always been seen on Seal Rock, the majority of the population has decided to change their location and starting lounging on the docks of Pier 39, where it is speculated that they feel safer.

Though the sea lions only appear seasonally, due to their migration habits, the best time to see them is during the spring, usually between February until June or July when they leave to seek out their food sources.

When they can be found at Pier 39, they are a source of pure entertainment for visitors with their playful antics. I enjoyed sitting on the platforms installed to provide optimum viewing of the large creatures which can weigh up to half a ton. They are known for their intelligence, playfulness and noisy barking but despite the fact that thousands of people come to see them every day, they usually avoid humans.

After you enjoy your free show at Pier 39, take some time to walk around, enjoy a great meal, buy some souvenirs and check out some of the performers that put on frequent shows on the premises.

No matter what you end up doing at Pier 39, however, you will always hear the blubbery creatures barking in the distance, so don’t feel bad if you have to go check them out one more time!

I did!

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Pier 39

  • https://www.pier39.com/
  • Address: The Embarcadero, San Francisco, CA 94133
  • Hours: 1000-2200, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There:

Hill’s Thrill

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

If you want to see all that San Francisco has to offer, there is one place to go.

Coit Tower.

The slender white concrete column, rising from the top of Telegraph Hill, can be seen from throughout the city. Completed in 1933, it has attracted the attention of residents and tourists alike for its simple beauty and the 360 degree views it offers.

Having seen Coit Tower from afar, many times, I had never taken the time to make it up Telegraph Hill to see exactly what it offered. With the clear, spring day, complete with bright blue skies, spread out above me, however, I decided that it was high time to make the climb.

The grounds around the tower, Pioneer Park, were well-manicured and offered ample area to take a break on one of the many benches and enjoy the shade, especially after the steep climb. It’s also a great place to watch and look for its noisiest residents, a wild flock of parrots.

Entering the tower, I was directed to the gift shop to purchase an elevator pass to reach the observation deck and then made my way to the queue for the elevator. The elevator is quite small, slow, holds only about 8 people and is manually operated, so be prepared to wait, especially during peak times.

Stepping off the elevator into the sunshine flooding the upper area and filtering through the decorative arches, we eagerly made our way to the windows where, as far as the eye could see, was the Bay City! Sweeping views of the hills, valleys and the city’s most famous landmarks captivated our attention…the Golden Gate and Bay bridges, Alcatraz, the Transamerica Pyramid, Fisherman’s Wharf, Pier 39, Nob Hill, Russian Hill, Twin Peaks, Aquatic Park, the Financial District, the Ferry Building, Angel Island, Treasure Island and Lombard Street, as well as the five surrounding counties.

Though I was enjoying the comprehensive views of the city, I still wasn’t aware of the history of this intriguing structure, however, a chat with the tour guide gave me a bit of insight.

Lillie Hitchcock Coit, a wealthy, eccentric resident of the city passed away in 1929 and left one-third of her fortune for the purpose of adding beauty to the city that she so dearly loved. Designed by the architecture firm of Arthur Brown, Jr. (the designers of San Francisco’s City Hall), the 210 foot tower was built on Pioneer Park the former sight of an optical semaphore telegraph (1850), which was erected to alert residents of the arrival of ships. The tower was dedicated to the city’s volunteer firefighters that Lillie Coit so greatly admired. Another monument, also paid for with Coit’s funds and dedicated to the firefighters was erected in Washington Square. This sculpture depicts three firemen, one carrying a woman in his arms.

The tower is well known and often-depicted in advertisements and scenes hyping San Francisco. If you are a film buff and have a keen eye, however, you may have noticed Coit Tower highlighted in many films and television series. Hitchcock, himself, featured the tower in his 1958 film Vertigo and more recently, it appeared in the 2015 disaster film, San Andreas, the Eddie Murphy film, Dr. Dolittle and the television show, Charmed.

Once you have taken a tour of the top of the tower, make sure to spend some time to inspect the murals at the base of the tower. These murals were created by twenty-five local artists who were commissioned to create works of art which depict aspects of life in California.

Having made such an impression upon the city due to the generosity of Lillie Coit, honor her and take a walk up to the top of Telegraph Hill. After you see all that’s before you, I promise,

“You’ll be thrilledl!”

Coit Tower

  • https://sfrecpark.org/destination/telegraph-hill-pioneer-park/coit-tower/
  • Address: 1 Telegraph Hill Blvd, San Francisco, CA 94133
  • Hours: April to October 1000-1800, November to March, 1000-1700. Closed Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and New Year’s Day.
  • Admission: Elevator Entrance fee, San Francisco residents, Adults, $6, Seniors 62+, $4, Youth 12-17 years, $4, Children, 5-11 years, $2, Children under 2, free. Non-residents, Adults, $9, Seniors 62+, $6, Youth 12-17 years, $6, Children, 5-11 years, $2, Children under 2, free.

A Tale of Two Chinatowns

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Just how many Chinatowns are there in the world?

Having visited a large number of these districts on our globe, I have to say that when I searched for this information, I was surprised by how many exist.

Following the defeat by Britain in the first Opium War, in the mid-1840’s, a series of natural catastrophes, famine, uprisings and rebellions ensued in China. Thousands of Chinese left their homes in the search for opportunity in near and far away lands and many arrived on the west coast of the United States when news of the gold rush gave them hope for a better life.

Historically, the Chinatowns located in the United States have been located in larger cities such as New York City, Seattle, Boston, Philadelphia, Chicago and Los Angeles with one of the most famous in San Francisco. There are, however, many Chinatowns in other countries as well, including Argentina, Cuba, Mexico, Peru, Canada, Mauritius, South Africa, India, Indonesia, Iran, Iraq, Japan, Malaysia, Myanmar, Pakistan, Philippines, Singapore, South Korea, Thailand, Vietnam, Belgium, France, Italy, Netherlands, United Kingdom, Australia.

I have visited quite a few on the list and they are all quite different.

Recently, I had the pleasure of accompanying my son to San Francisco on his Spring Break trip. It had been many years since my last visit to the Golden Gate City, but the first thing I wanted to show him was Chinatown. As we approached the Dragon Gate on Grant Avenue, I was quite excited to see what changes the enclave had gone through over the years.

The Dragon Gate was given to the city by the Republic of China and is inscribed with a message from the President of the Republic of China. Though I have seen bigger and more elaborate gates, I love this one for its simplicity and park-like feel. As we walked through the gate onto into the streets filled with antiques, souvenir shops, bakeries, restaurants and artwork, the familiarity returned and I remembered my first trip to San Francisco, before I began to travel the world, when I felt as though I had really entered another country.

Making our way up Grant Street, criss-crossed above with red Chinese paper lanterns, I marveled at the architecture, street art and signage. There are many notable buildings within Chinatown, including the Sing Chong Building (the most photographed piece of architecture in the area), the Bank of Canton (the Old Telephone Exchange), the Tien Hau Temple (the oldest Taoist Temple, founded in 1852), Old St. Mary’s Church (oldest cathedral in California and built by Chinese laborers) and many other culturally inspired structures, including ones on the notorious Waverly Place, an alleyway that has been used in many films and holds the first U.S. Post Office established in San Francisco.

Sing Chong Building
Bank of Canton
Tien Hau Temple
Old St. Mary’s Church
Waverly Place

The street art is some of the finest I have seen in the world and it’s advisable to duck into small streets and alleyways…you never know what you may find!

One thing that I regret missing out on, however, was a visit to the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory. Having always been fascinated by the sweet cookies that are consumed after a Chinese meal, I thought it would be an interesting place to see how the cookies are made and to bring home a few to my family. Hard to find in a small alley, we passed it by, finally realizing when it was too late and time was slipping by quickly. Nevertheless, I will save this for another trip!

As the dinner hour approached, we later returned to Chinatown for an authentic meal, mesmerized by the swaying lanterns now lit for the darkened skies above the now quiet streets.

Visiting San Francisco’s Chinatown was such an enlightening experience, that when I visited Milan a couple of weeks later, I decided that I should check out the Italian version.

The day was just as brilliant as when I visited San Francisco and I looked forward to seeing how the two city’s Chinatowns compared.

Turning onto the pedestrian friendly, Via Paolo Sarpi, my interest was piqued and I glanced around hoping to spot a Chinese gate or inspiring Chinese architecture. Instead, what I found was what looked like a typical Italian street halfheartedly attempting to disguise itself as a Chinatown. Sure, there were the occasional signs which lend to the Asian perception and the intermittent paper lantern fluttering in the wind, but the over feeling is well…Italian…disappointing. Don’t get me wrong, I love Italian architecture, I was was just hoping for something much different. Try as I might, I just didn’t get the same warm and fuzzy feeling that I got when I visited San Francisco’s Chinatown.

The Chinese that reside here date back to the 1920’s and came from the Zhejiang region near Shanghai to work in the silk industry. Their descendants remained here, set up shop and offer a wide range of services and products, including 150 boutiques selling Oriental products, traditional tea shops and the large Kathay, the biggest store for ethnic food in Italy. It was here that I finally felt as though I was experiencing the true cultural phenomenon. As I browsed the shelves of authentic products, I found something that I had loved when visiting Hong Kong…sesame peanut brittle. Purchasing a small box, I secured a place on a bench surrounded by a floral shop and ate it slowly watching the activity on the street.

Finally, I walked around some of the side streets, hoping to find what I thought the neighborhood was lacking. Still confused, I thought, maybe if I had dinner here at one of the many restaurants, I could be swayed in my disappointing assessment.

Glancing around at the choices…I decided…

“Nah, I’d rather go have a pizza”.

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Chinatown San Francisco

  • http://www.sanfranciscochinatown.com/
  • Getting There: From Fisherman’s Wharf area, take the cable car to Chinatown. There are two locations for cable cars near Fisherman’s Wharf. The Powell-Hyde line (PH) and the Powell-Mason line (PM). The PH line is located near Ghiradelli Square at Beach and Hyde Street. The PM line is located at Bay and Taylor Street. Both lines intersect each other. Best place to get off is Washington & Mason (near Cable Car Museum) or Powell & California. Walk down a few blocks and you will be in Chinatown. From BART, take BART to Downtown San Francisco (exit Powell Street Station), then go above ground and transfer to 30 Stockton, 45 Union-Stockton, or cable car to Chinatown. B

Chinatown Milan

Never To Be, Napoleon

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Recently, while in Barcelona, I visited the Arc de Triomf. Only one of many triumphal arches I have visited over the years, I decided that I would make a point of visiting any and all that were present in the cities that I would currently be in.

Having seen the Arco della Pace in Milan a few years ago for a few brief moments as I was making my way to the Castle Sforza, I recently decided to make an official visit.

Arco della Pace or “Arch of Peace” is located in the Parco Sempione, directly opposite the famous Castello Sforzesco. Built under Napoleon’s rule, it is one of Milan’s many city gates and was built in the style of Paris’ Arc du Triomphe. Napoleon’s intention was that he could pass through the arch on his way into Milan as he traveled from Paris.

Built between the years of 1807 and 1838, it was constructed from many materials, including marble, bronze and stucco. Architect, Luigi Cagnola was commissioned to construct the neoclassical structure and added bas-reliefs, Corinthian columns, and statues including a bronze effigy of a Goddess led by four horses. Under the statue, which tops the arch, there is an inscription that reads Sestina della Pace (poem by peace). The names of the fallen of World War II are inscribed above the arch and at the side of the Arch, above the columns, there are two plates with the names of the fallen of the Great War and at the center there is a large slab dedicated to Victor Emanuel II. This slab is bordered by two bas-reliefs depicting two soldiers.

While the decoration of the arch initially intended to document Napoleon’s victories and originally named the Victory Arch, the conquering of the Napoleonic Kingdom of Italy by the Austrian Empire put an end to the idea. Eventually, under the rule of Emperor Francis II, the monument was decorated with scenes from the Battle of Leipzig, which ironically, led to Napoleon’s defeat.

The historical arch, one of the most familiar landmarks in the city is a common meeting point and area where locals gather to relax and enjoy the spaciousness of the Piazza Sempione and Milan’s largest park. Children can be spotted running and playing and adults exercising or enjoying an aperitif or a snack.

The arch’s base is enclosed by a metal chain, hindering visitors from walking through and lingering under the arch. There is no security presence, however, so I believe, the barrier is more of a deterrence to keep the homeless from using the space as a shelter. There are some beautiful motifs and carvings inside of the three arches that are worth taking a better look, so if you feel comfortable stepping over the chain, go for it!

There are many nightclubs and restaurants in the area as well as Milan’s own Chinatown, so grab a seat and admire the beauty of this historical triumphal arch and then take a short walk to enjoy the offerings of the area.

In my quest to see all of the world’s triumphal arches, today I achieved part of my goal.

Quite the triumph!

Now…how many more are there? Stay tuned!

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Arco della Pace

  • Address: Piazza Sempione, 20154 Milano MI, Italy
  • Hours: 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: Metro, Line 2, Moscova or Line 1, Cairoli and walk through Castle straight through park to Arch.

St. Peter’s In the Golden Sky

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Churches in Pavia?

There are so many.

While planning my trip to the city, south of Milan, the Duomo was at the top of my list, but being in Italy, certainly there would be other churches to visit.

As I googled “churches in Pavia” the resulting map was a sea of red icons. I marked them all on my map and hoped to visit at least two or three.

After viewing the Duomo’s splendor, I decided to walk north towards the Visconti Castle which houses the City Museums of Pavia. As the sun was edging lower in the evening sky, casting a golden glow over the city, I realized that the castle would have to wait until a future visit, but I also wanted to squeeze in one more thing before I headed back to Milan.

A church perhaps?

San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro, located a few blocks away, was the perfect choice as its Italian name translates to St. Peter’s In the Golden Sky…very fitting as I watched the sinking sun light the remains of the azure sky.

Trying to follow the map on my phone, I must have walked past the church a couple of times. It was a local woman, out for a walk, who finally pointed me in the right direction…the unassuming church, with its brick facade, is tucked away in a corner of a small, shady piazza.

Walking into the dimly lit interior, I noticed there was not another soul in sight except for an elderly priest attending his duties near the the front of the church. The ancient atmosphere of the basilica was mesmerizing and as I made my way through the interior and its three naves, I discovered the remains of a twelfth century mosaic in the apse as well as traces of frescoes from the fifteenth and sixteenth century.

Though the basilica dates back to the year 604 AD, the current building, only dates to the twelfth century and was consecrated by Pope Innocent II in 1132. Its grand dome in the central nave was rebuilt in 1487 and I learned from the priest that the original color of the wooden ceiling was decorated with golden colored paint, thus giving it its name.

The priest directed me into the crypt under the presbytery, which houses the remains of Severino Boezio, consul, senator and philosopher and I enjoyed making my way through the low, vaulted space. The presbytery itself, however, is the highlight of the church and what made me glad that I sought out this architectural gem. It is here that the fourteenth century marble Ark of St. Augustine is on display…the centerpiece for which this church is most notable. The Ark is decorated with scenes from the saint’s life (including his conversion, baptism, miracles after his death and the transfer of his relics to Pavia) and it is the silver urn at the foot of the Ark that houses his relics.

Another highlight of the basilica is the sacristy with its ribbed vault, sixteenth century adornments and a seventeenth century canvas of St. Augustine and St. Jerome. There are also two beautiful altars, one sculpted in 1940 and dedicated to St. Rita and the other dedicated to the Sacred Heart, dating to 1963.


Noticing the priest standing near the door, I knew that it was time to call it a day. Thanking him, I headed out into the now darkening evening and my waiting train.

Elated that I was able to visit two of the city’s holy sites and especially one with such significance. I opened up my map and marked off the two, only to realize that I’ll have to make many more trips to Pavia!

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Basilica di San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro

Pavia’s Pride

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

In the center of Pavia lies…the Duomo!

Yes, Pavia has its own.

Not a Duomo that can match the size and beauty of Milan’s, but one that fits the small scale of Pavia.

Built on the site of two pre-existing cathedrals, Saint Stephen and Santa Maria Maria del Popolo, Pavia’s cathedral was established in 1488 with the idea of offering a new place of worship to the city. Named after Saint Stephen, construction was initiated by Cristoforo Rocchi and later, Giovanni Antonio Amadeo, but most notably, Leonardi Da Vinci’s advice was also solicited on the project.

Knowing that there were many churches in Pavia, it was the one located in Cathedral Square that I most wanted to see. As I approached the square and spied the dome of the duomo, I must admit, it was a bit disappointing. When one hears the word duomo, one expects great things, like you would see in Milan. The facade, however, has largely remained incomplete with the terracotta surface still untouched by the marble in which it was supposed to be covered. Realizing that it was built over several centuries (resulting in a number of different influences) made me even more anxious to see what was inside.

Before entering, I spotted the remains next to the cathedral, the remains of the Civic Tower (Torre Civica), built in 1330 and enlarged in 1583. After standing proudly beside the cathedral for so many hundreds of years, the tower collapsed on March 17, 1989. To the left of the duomo, the remains of the two original churches can be seen in a fenced area.

Entering the structure, we found a much larger-than-expected cathedral consisting of a design of a Greek cross, topped with a dome designed by Carlo Maciachini. It is most interesting to note that this dome, held up by uniquely styled pillars, is the third largest in size in Italy.

At first glance, the far-reaching church’s marble interior appears to be quite plain, especially in the dim natural light. It is when you begin moving around the structure’s interior that you begin to notice the immense detail and treasures that lie tucked into each unique chapel that line the church’s perimeter and discover how light and airy the cathedral actually feels. Though it is tempting to head to the center of the church and examine the immense dome, and then the illuminated presbytery, take a deep breath and give yourself the time this grand structure deserves.

The main marble altar, with its eighteenth century top, was brought from the church of San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro. It draws you in with its intricately carved statues. The beautiful pulpit must be inspected thoroughly with its lifelike figures supporting the structure. It is truly amazing!

Making your way around to each of the chapels, there is much to discover in each. In St. Agnes’s chapel, there is a nineteenth century altarpiece representing a young version of the saint, lifting over her head, her symbol, the lamb. Another altarpiece, this one with the Virgin Mary, can be found in the aptly named, Virgin’s Chapel. Painted in Rome by Federico Faruffini, it depicts the Virgin with the city of Pavia at her feet. Beside the altar, there are statues of her parents Gioacchina and Anna as well as the remains of the bishop of Pavia, Damian.

In St. Peter’s Chapel, take note of the two symmetrical stones which show the saint’s coat of arms and his portrait and the cock on the left of the altarpiece which refers to St. Peter’s treason.

On the altar of St. Alessandro Sauli’s chapel, you can spy a stone urn, that holds the saint’s relics inside as well as plaster flying angels on clouds. The Chapel of the Rosary has a most interesting painting on canvas by Bernardino Gatti called Soiaro, created in 1531. Representing the Virgin of Rosary, there are stories about the Mysteries; fourteen of which must be read counterclockwise and the fifteen with the Coronation of the Virgin on the crowning tablet.

In the chapel of St. John the Baptist, a painting of the saint in the desert is flanked by statues of his parents, Elisabetta and Zaccaria. Under the altar is the body of St. Invenzio.

There are many other chapels to inspect including the Chapel of the Virgin of Caravaggio, the Chapel of Intercession, Sfondrati’s Chapel, the Crucifix’s Chapel, St. Crispino’s Chapel, St. Riccardo Pampuri’s Chapel, Trinity Chapel, St. Barnaba’s Chapel, St. Siro’s Chapel, the Chapel of the Sacred Heart and the Chapel of the Holy Family.

As you make your way around the cathedral, you will notice there are many notable figures and many past bishops, buried within and marked with engraved marble slabs. The most important person to be buried within the cathedral is St. Siro (in St. Siro’s Chapel). St. Siro is known to have been the first bishop of Pavia during the first century. According to legend, it was St. Siro who was the boy with the five loaves who appears in the Gospels. It is said that he followed St. Peter to Rome and was sent out to preach in the major cities of northern Italy.

The other most important item that should not be missed is the seventeenth century reliquary which holds the Holy Thorns which came from Christ’s crown. On Whit Sunday, an ancient mechanism allows the descent of the precious relics over a golden cloud to descend and go back up the following day.

Now that’s something I would like to see!

Exiting the cathedral and looking out onto the square, I thought of my first impression of Pavia’s duomo when I arrived. Turning back and taking another look, I realized something…

First impressions can be so deceiving.

Pavia’s duomo measures up in its own way!

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Pavia Duomo

Note: Check out the Regisole (“Sun King”) monument in Cathedral Square outside the Duomo. Originally erected in Ravenna, it was moved to Pavia in the Middle Ages and stands for Pavia’s deep connection with imperial Rome.

The Old Covered Bridge

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Why did the pedestrian cross the river?

To check out the beautiful covered bridge.

Okay, so that’s not how the old joke goes, but when one sees a beautiful covered bridge, one must absolutely take a walk to the other side!

Having decided to take some side trips from Milan lately, I ventured out to the town of Pavia on the advice of a friend. Marking a few items of interest on my map, the first one I wanted to see was the Ponte Coperto (the Covered Bridge), also called the Ponte Vecchio (the Old Bridge).

The structure is a brick and stone arch bridge which crosses the Ticino River and replaces the previous medieval bridge, dating from 1354 (with an even older Roman one preceding it). When the previous bridge was damaged during the war in 1945, repair was considered until the structure partially collapsed a couple of years later.

The new bridge’s design was based on the previous bridge and was begun in 1949, incorporating one difference and one similarity. The previous bridge contained seven arches and the current one contains only five, however, like its predecessor, it contains a chapel in the center.

The Ponte Coperto connects the suburbs, the traditional place of washerwomen, gravel quarrymen and fisherman, to the city’s center and there were many pedestrians crossing the bridge as I made my way to the other side.

Peeking inside the chapel at the altar, devoted to St. Giovanni Nepomuceno, patron of drowned men, I also paid particular attention to the vaulted wood ceiling above. In the center of the bridge, I stopped to examine the remains of the ancient Roman bridge ruins which sit in the rushing water of the Ticino.

So what did I do after I made my way to the other side?

I went back!

There’s lots more to see in Pavia!

For more pictures, check out Facebook, Snapping the Globe and Instagram, @snappingtheglobe.

Ponte Coperto

  • http://www.comune.pv.it/site/home.html
  • Address: 27100 Pavia, Province of Pavia, Italy
  • Hours: daily, 24 hours
  • Admission: free
  • Getting There: About a 12-15 minute walk from the Pavia train station