St. Peter’s In the Golden Sky

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Churches in Pavia?

There are so many.

While planning my trip to the city, south of Milan, the Duomo was at the top of my list, but being in Italy, certainly there would be other churches to visit.

As I googled “churches in Pavia” the resulting map was a sea of red icons. I marked them all on my map and hoped to visit at least two or three.

After viewing the Duomo’s splendor, I decided to walk north towards the Visconti Castle which houses the City Museums of Pavia. As the sun was edging lower in the evening sky, casting a golden glow over the city, I realized that the castle would have to wait until a future visit, but I also wanted to squeeze in one more thing before I headed back to Milan.

A church perhaps?

San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro, located a few blocks away, was the perfect choice as its Italian name translates to St. Peter’s In the Golden Sky…very fitting as I watched the sinking sun light the remains of the azure sky.

Trying to follow the map on my phone, I must have walked past the church a couple of times. It was a local woman, out for a walk, who finally pointed me in the right direction…the unassuming church, with its brick facade, is tucked away in a corner of a small, shady piazza.

Walking into the dimly lit interior, I noticed there was not another soul in sight except for an elderly priest attending his duties near the the front of the church. The ancient atmosphere of the basilica was mesmerizing and as I made my way through the interior and its three naves, I discovered the remains of a twelfth century mosaic in the apse as well as traces of frescoes from the fifteenth and sixteenth century.

Though the basilica dates back to the year 604 AD, the current building, only dates to the twelfth century and was consecrated by Pope Innocent II in 1132. Its grand dome in the central nave was rebuilt in 1487 and I learned from the priest that the original color of the wooden ceiling was decorated with golden colored paint, thus giving it its name.

The priest directed me into the crypt under the presbytery, which houses the remains of Severino Boezio, consul, senator and philosopher and I enjoyed making my way through the low, vaulted space. The presbytery itself, however, is the highlight of the church and what made me glad that I sought out this architectural gem. It is here that the fourteenth century marble Ark of St. Augustine is on display…the centerpiece for which this church is most notable. The Ark is decorated with scenes from the saint’s life (including his conversion, baptism, miracles after his death and the transfer of his relics to Pavia) and it is the silver urn at the foot of the Ark that houses his relics.

Another highlight of the basilica is the sacristy with its ribbed vault, sixteenth century adornments and a seventeenth century canvas of St. Augustine and St. Jerome. There are also two beautiful altars, one sculpted in 1940 and dedicated to St. Rita and the other dedicated to the Sacred Heart, dating to 1963.


Noticing the priest standing near the door, I knew that it was time to call it a day. Thanking him, I headed out into the now darkening evening and my waiting train.

Elated that I was able to visit two of the city’s holy sites and especially one with such significance. I opened up my map and marked off the two, only to realize that I’ll have to make many more trips to Pavia!

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Basilica di San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro

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