Dozing on the way to my hotel, I suddenly sat up, aware that the bus was making a series of turns. My inner navigation, sensing that we were almost to my hotel, had alerted me to the area, that no matter how many times I visit, I never tire of seeing on my arrival into Rome.
Passing by the Vatican’s towering walls and the line snaking around its perimeter, our bus made its way through the busy streets, finally taking a final turn. I eyed the vendors displaying their wares on the street corners, the summer sale signs in the clothing stores, the gelato shops…and then, I noticed something I had never noticed before.
A fountain.
Not so unusual, you say? If you’ve been to Rome before, you would be aware that fountains are a dime a dozen, existing in the city for over two-thousand years. They decorate street corners, piazzas and buildings. Originally fed by nine aqueducts to provide drinking water and enhancement, they are part of the overall Italian art and architectural experience.
But this one…just down the street from my hotel….looked a little lonely and a little bit dilapidated, with no running water. Yet, there was something about it that was extremely intriguing, but we drove by a little too quickly. Since it wasn’t far, I decided that I would walk that way later in the afternoon and take a closer look.
In the circular Piazza dei Quiriti, the fountain that I had spied…was still there…and waiting for me…but now I knew a little bit more about its history.
Before I had taken my nap, I had learned (thanks to Google!) that this small fountain was one of five erected in Rome during the 1920s to embellish the city. A competition was held by the municipality and the winner, Attilio Selva, gave them not only what they wanted but also a bit of controversy.
Severely criticized not only for its naked female figures and the positions in which they were situated, but also because it sat in the shadow of the church of San Gioacchino in Prati. Because of the controversy it aroused, the inauguration was postponed for over a year. During that time, however, the new Fascist government, preferring the exhibition of naked bodies, as evidenced by the adornment of au natural images on various buildings, caused the disputation to be soon forgotten.
Except to those enroute to San Gioacchino in Prati and of course, the curiosity seekers.
And me.
The curiosity seeker, enroute to San Gioacchino.
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Fontana Delle Cariatidi
Address: Piazza dei Quiriti, 00192 Roma, RM Italy
Hours: 24 hours, daily
Admission: free
Getting There: Bus, 180F, 30, 32, 70, 81. Train, FC3, FL3, FL5. Metro, Line A.
Years ago, when I lived in Dallas, I always heard people say this, so when I visited Austin for the first time, I expected BIG things there as well.
Did I find that?
You bet!
Being downtown has its advantages. It’s a BIG city, but everything is close by. Or so I thought!
My initial plan was to take a walk along the river, enjoy the scenery and city views and then head over to one of Austin’s local attractions. It was a beautiful day and I thought it would be nice to be outdoors and get my daily dose of culture.
After a short time, I happened upon the statue of music legend Stevie Ray Vaughan. It was a normal sized statue, but the bronze effigy, erected in 1994, depicts the Blues guitarist in his customary poncho, straight brimmed hat and western boots, as he appeared to his adoring fans before his death…LARGER than life.
Seeking out more three-dimensional art, my next destination was to be the Umlauf Sculpture Garden and Museum. Thinking I could continue my trip along the river and be there in a short amount of time, I soon discovered that my short walk was actually a long one. BIG mistake! Silly me…I had plugged in the driving directions on my phone instead of the walking directions and it was a lot farther than I thought. Too invested to give up at this point, I plodded onward but I was glad I did.
The Umlauf Sculpture Garden and Museum, exhibits the works of Charles Umlauf and other visual and performing artists displayed in a peaceful setting filled with native Texas plants and trees. The site once contained small ponds which were used by soldiers to practice fly casting during the 1930s and 1940s. Becoming overgrown and neglected during later years, the property was then given to the City of Austin and transformed into a sculpture garden for the dozens of bronze and stone pieces gifted to the city in 1991, by 20th century American sculptor, Charles Umlauf.
As I made my way through the property, I encountered stunning sculptural works of art amid waterfalls, streams, pathways, flowers and natural beauty. With not just one theme on display, I encountered three-dimensional depictions of men, women, children, animals and religious subjects. In addition, there were a few pieces, including the winning project, from the design competition, Design Shine 2020…a BIG deal!
Deciding not to make the long walk back to the city, I called Uber in anticipation of arriving in time to see Austin’s BIGGEST spectacle during the spring and summer months. The nightly emergence of the bats at the Congress Avenue Bridge!
Never had I heard of the Austin bats! Only when I mentioned to a friend that I was going to be in the Music City did she tell me what an amazing experience it is and that I was going to be there during the prime viewing season.
But first, I wanted a quick look around the downtown area.
Approaching from Congress Avenue, I admired the grand State Capitol building with its BIG dome, viewable all the way from the Congress Street Bridge. It was getting late in the day and although I was aware that tours, both guided and self-guided were offered, I didn’t have the time, especially if I was going to see the bats. Glancing at my watch, I also realized that the last tours departing would be in a few minutes…definitely not enough time to make my way across the lawn and make the necessary arrangements. But as I entered the front gates, I discovered that sticking with the theme of the day…BIG statues…I could make the most of the rest of my afternoon.
The Texas Confederate Memorial Lawn has some amazing monuments designed and constructed by notable sculptors along its Great Walk and on the grassy lawns to the east and west. Here, you can find the African American History Memorial (West Lawn), Spanish American War Memorial, (West Lawn), Memorial to Volunteer Firefighters (Great Walk), the Monument to Confederate Soldiers (Great Walk), Memorial to the Texas Rangers (Great Walk), Heroes of the Alamo Monument (Great Walk), Artesian Fountain Exhibit (East Lawn) and the Tejano Monument (East Lawn). In fact, the collection is so BIG, that even though I glanced at one of the maps, I still missed so many more statues located at the rear of the Capitol building…Ten Commandments, Texas Schoolchildren, Pioneer Woman, Pearl Harbor, Statue of Liberty, World War I, World War II, Korean War Veterans, Vietnam Veterans, Disabled Texas Veterans and Texas Police Officers. I now definitely have motivation to return!
Texas African American History Memorial
Memorial to Volunteer Firefighters
Monument to Confederate Soldiers Memorial to the Texas Rangers Heroes of the Alamo Monument Artesian Fountain Exhibit Tejano Monument
Oh well, it was getting late, and I wanted to be sure not to miss the BIG event!
As I headed back down Congress Avenue, I marveled at the architecture as well as the graffiti artwork displayed on many of the buildings and in alleyways. My favorite, however, was the BIG guitar on Congress Avenue, designed by Craig Hein, giving homage to Austin’s musical roots.
Earlier, while walking along the river, I had observed signs for boat companies that offer trips out on the river so that riders get a prime view of the emergence at sunset. Other companies offered kayak trips for similar views but not being sure of my plans at the time, I had not made any reservations. Instead, I took my place along the rail on the pedestrian walkway, along the river on the north bank, with hundreds of other people and waited. To be honest, at that time, I wasn’t quite sure what I was waiting for.
Finally, I heard a gasp and saw my fellow observers pointing. There they were. Hundreds of Brazilian Free-Tailed bats were emerging from the 16-inch-deep crevices between concrete beams of the bridge, their nesting spot during the day, and taking flight in search of their evening meal.
Little did I know, at the time, how lucky I was to see this phenomenon as weather sometimes dictates their appearance with hot or warm, dry weather being the optimum conditions. 100,000 bats live under the bridge, rearing their young and then migrating to Mexico during the winter months.
Although I was able to see the long columns of bats in the darkening sky, it was obvious that there are many other prime viewing locations, in the river and on the opposite bank.
Weary, yet excited, I stumbled back in the direction of my hotel, hoping to find a BIG burrito and a BIG margarita…because you can’t go to Austin and expect anything less!
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Hours: Tuesday-Friday, 1000-1600, Saturday and Sunday, 1100-1600. Closed Monday. Closed Independence Day, Labor Day, Austin City Limits Music Festival, December 24 and 25, December 31 and January 1.
Admission: Members, free, Adults, $7.00, Seniors (60+), $5.00, Students, $3.00, Youth, 13-17 years, $1.00, Children under 12, Active Military and Veterans, free.
Hours: Texas Capitol and Extension: Monday-Friday, 0700-2000, Saturday and Sunday, 0900-2000. Easter Sunday, Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day. Grounds open daily, 0700-2000. Capitol Visitor’s Center, Monday-Friday, 0900-1700, Saturday and Sunday, 1200-1700. Easter Sunday, Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day. Monday-Friday, guided tours of the Capitol are available on a limited basis between 9:30 a.m. and 4 p.m. with the last tour departing at 3:30 p.m. On Saturday and Sunday, guided tours of the Capitol are available on a limited basis between 1230 and 1600 with the last tour departing at 1530. Self-guided tours of the Capitol and Grounds are allowed daily. Visitors are welcome to pick up free self-guided Capitol and Grounds tour brochures at the Capitol north entry or Capitol Information and Guide Service 1S.2.
Admission: Capitol Tours, both guided and self-guided, are free. All tours depart from inside the South Foyer outside the tour guides office in the Capitol, approximately every 30-45 minutes and last for 30 minutes.
While South Dakota is known for four specific Presidents, Washington, Lincoln, Roosevelt and Jefferson, carved into a mountainside, it had escaped my thorough attention to detail that Rapid City, being an extremely patriotic city, it is also known for its City of Presidents Sculpture Walk.
As I drove around the block, attempting to secure a parking spot near my hotel, I noticed many statues on each corner of Main and St. Joseph Streets. These life-size bronze statues are a tribute to our nation’s past presidents, a project which began in 2000 to honor the legacy of our leaders.
In 2000, President Abraham Lincoln was the first statue to be unveiled. Four statues a year were unveiled until 2010, when Presidents Arthur, Clinton and George W. Bush were completed.
Each of the forty-three sculptures is privately funded and placed in a pattern so as to maintain an orderly structure and eliminate any sense of favoritism or political gain. Although our 46th president is currently in office, you won’t see his likeness for a while as statues are unveiled every 4-8 years, depending on a president’s time in office and there are spots for eighty statues, so plenty of space to record our nation’s forthcoming history.
Numbers still not adding up? Grover Cleveland served twice as president, but wasn’t re-elected after his first term. He won the 1884 and 1892 elections, thus serving as the 22nd and 24th president and with the loss of the election by President Trump this past November, his statue should be in the works for an unveiling in the immediate future.
It is a lovely tribute and a great way to enjoy Rapid City’s downtown area.
Although I was headed to Mount Rushmore on my first day in town, I rose quite early on the next to take a closer look at these effigies. On this particular day, I made it through about half of the statues on St. Joseph Street, vowing to see the rest on the next.
I must admit, with the sun’s low angle due to the time of year, it was hard to get great photos of some of the statues, but at least they weren’t covered in snow…yet. That was reserved for the next day. Overnight, a light snowfall blanketed the city and the presidents! Although it was freezing…a glacial 15 degrees…I was determined to see all of the presidents that morning before leaving for the Badlands. I made a plan to walk down one side of Main Street, stopping on each corner, then crossing at Fourth Street to make it up the other side of Main. Each statue is a unique piece of artistry and represents something that the president was known for.
Gerald Ford, known for his affection for the family dog is depicted with his dog Liberty.
John F. Kennedy is shown holding hands with his son John Jr.
Calvin Coolidge is featured waving a Stetson hat next to a saddle; the original saddle was made for the President by Bud Duhamel of Rapid City.
John Tyler and his violin.
As I made my way back to St. Joseph Street, to see the statues I had missed the day before, I encountered some local Native American citizens who insisted I take their picture with President William Henry Harrison. They told me that they were contemplating adding a sign to the newspaper that Harry Truman was holding up, stating “Will Work For Food”! They thought it quite comical!
Intersection of Sixth and St. Joseph Streets, George Washington, Jimmy Carter, Ronald Reagan, Andrew JohnsonCorner of Fifth and St. Joseph Streets, Richard Nixon, George W. Bush, Dwight D. Eisenhower, James A. GarfieldCorner of Fourthand St. Joseph Streets, Barack Obama, Grover Cleveland, Rutherford B. HayesCorner of Sixth and Main Streets, George H. Bush, John AdamsCorner of Fifth and Main Streets, Herbert Hoover, Franklin D. Roosevelt, Chester Arthurand Calvin Coolidge (pictured above)Corner of Fourth and Main Streets, Ulysses S. Grant, William McKinley, James K. Polk, Benjamin HarrisonCorner of Seventh and Main Streets, Linden B. Johnson, John Quincy Adams, James MonroeCorner of Eighth and Main Streets, Andrew Jackson, Martin Van Buren, William Howard Taft and John F. Kennedy (pictured above)Corner of Ninth and Main Streets, James Buchanan, Abraham Lincoln, Teddy Roosevelt, Franklin PierceCorner of Ninth and St. Joseph Streets, Warren G. Harding, Zachary Taylor, Woodrow Wilson, Millard FilmoreCorner of Seventh and St. Joseph Streets, James Madison, Thomas Jefferson, William Jefferson ClintonandGerald Ford (pictured above)Corner of Eighth and St. Joseph Streets, Harry S. Truman, William Henry Harrisonand John Tyler (pictured above)
In addition to the President’s statues, you can find many famous statues throughout the city, two in particular that are located among the presidents in the downtown area with a Native American theme; Mitakauye Oyasin (All My Relatives) by Dale C. Lamphere and Hunkayapi (Tying on the Eagle Plume), by Dale C. Lamphere.
While in South Dakota, it is imperative that you make the trip out to see Mount Rushmore, but while in the Rapid City, don’t miss these amazing works of art and the downtown area which is a work of art in itself. Download the map of each of the presidential statue locations and visit the President’s Information Center for information, but challenge yourself to see how many you can recognize on your own!
Downtown Rapid City Signs
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São Paulo’s Batman Alley has been my highlight with stairwells, walls, doorways and sidewalks filled with stunning murals and artwork. While I have seen some great graffiti over the years, I have never experienced anything like Batman Alley in all of the cities I have visited.
Until I set foot in Rapid City.
As I stepped outside of my hotel in the fifteen degree morning, my only focus was the drive ahead of me to the Badlands on snowy roads. Walking toward my car, hoping there was an ice scraper, I looked immediately to my left and noticed a bit of graffiti…and a sign.
Art Alley.
The first inhabitants of South Dakota left their marks in the form of petroglyphs. Today, artists leave their stories in the form of murals in Art Alley.
In the early 2000s, artists began to use the alley as their canvas. Since then, the area has flourished and has become a social movement and a place to spread messages. The Rapid City Arts Council is in charge of the space and permits must be obtained from them or from the building owner. Though not all buildings are available for painting, there is enough surface area between 6th and 7th Streets to provide tons of space for artists’ expressions and a place for tourists to see what the art scene in Rapid City is all about.
Situated next to the Hilton Hotel Alex Johnson and countless restaurants and shops, it’s easy to see while experiencing all that downtown Rapid City has to offer.
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There was still plenty of daylight and most attractions in Cuba did not close for a little while. I needed a plan of action that might include a frosty beverage!
Grabbing a seat on a rustic bench, I took a second to regroup.
Iglesia del Santo Angel Custodio near the Revolution Museum caught my eye. I had just been near there and it meant a little backtracking, but there were many restaurants just around the corner and it would be nice to have a seat and something to drink.
Though the church was not open, I discovered that it sat on a pretty, yet tiny, colonial square, Plazuela de Santo Ángel. A lovely bronze statue of a woman holding court in front of the church captured my attention. She was dressed in vintage attire, holding a fan and appeared to have just left the church and was going to do her business in Old Havana.
Although there is a placard on the church wall which tells visitors about this woman, Cecilia Valdes, I had to wait until later to decipher who she was as it was written in Spanish. What I later learned was that this woman is the title heroine of a popular 19th century book which had a scene set at this location. The book has inspired operas, literary reiterations and a feature film and has been considered one of the most important novels detailing life in 19th century Cuba. You can also take note of the bust on the nearby wall of Cirilo Villaverde, the Cuban poet, novelist, journalist and freedom fighter. He is known especially for one great literary piece of work. Yes…the novel, Cecilia Valdes!
As I made my way away from the square, I was intrigued with the area. There were captivating outdoor cafes, fun souvenir shops and colorful fans hanging above the street. It was a beautiful afternoon and it was nice to take a seat under one of the large umbrellas and enjoy a refreshing cerveza!
Once again, I continued my explorations and there was a great detail to take in; small, beautifully crafted tiles on buildings, artists putting the finishing touches on their masterpieces, bits of grafitti, a statue of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes and city wall ruins in the Parque Cespedes La Maestranza and the Police Headquarters situated in a old fortress, were just a few of the treasures that I encountered along the way.
Music playing in the distance caught my ear and I followed the tune. Finding myself in the Plaza de la Catedral, a known locale of countless street performers, I stared up at the profound Havana Cathedral, also known as the Catedral de San Cristobal. One of the eleven cathedrals on the island, it serves as the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese. Built between 1748 and 1777, it was consecrated in 1782.
The Baroque architectural style is quite commanding as you stand before the cathedral in the plaza and if your eye is quite discerning, you may notice that the two bell towers are of unequal size and height. Approaching the facade, I noticed that there were fossilized marine fauna and flora in the stone, quickly realizing that the Cathedral is constructed from coral. It is quite beautiful and I could not wait to see what its interior held, especially knowing that it was designed by Italian architect Francesco Borromini.
The interior is decorated in the neoclassical style and has a central nave, two side aisles, eight side chapels and is in the form of a Latin cross. Though my initial impression of the interior was that it was stunning, with its palatial columns and soaring vaulted ceilings, I realized that it was more of an understated beauty. I have seen my share of opulent religious building throughout the world and this one was not of that class. It was, however, welcoming and offered many sculptures, paintings and frescoes throughout its interior. Some of these paintings and frescoes are by masters Peter Paul Rubens and Bartolome Esteban Murillo. Other standouts are a statue of Apolinar Serrano, Spanish bishop of Havana, who is buried in the Cathedral, a sculpture of Saint Christopher, the Patron Saint of Havana, three fading frescoes by Giuseppe Perovani above the altar, a canvas of the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception, Patroness of the Cathedral, and on the altar, sculptures and goldsmith works made in Rome during the first half of the 19th century.
The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Christopher and between 1796 and 1898, the remains of Christopher Columbus were kept in the Altar of the Gospel before being taken to the Seville Cathedral in Spain after the Cuban War of Independence.
Finding the side door open, I ventured out and discovered access to the right belltower. I suspected that someone is usually stationed at the entrance to collect an admittance fee, however, no one was present. Making my way up each level of the campanile, I had bird’s eye views of each of the mighty carillons as well as panoramas of the plaza below and even a view across the river of the Christ of Havana. A small gate was unlocked and I discovered that it led onto a portion of the roof. Since there was no one to tell me that I was not allowed and no signs, I ventured to the area and was rewarded with close glimpses of the tiled roof and the spectacular flying buttresses.
After my visit to the Cathedral was complete, I headed back out into the Plaza de la Catedral. Musicians were performing at the El Patio restaurant and locals and visitors were dancing in the square. There were gaily dressed Cuban women, seated at tables and telling fortunes and a general sense of celebration. Walking down the Empedrado, I witnessed many artists along the thoroughfare and older women holding tight between their teeth, one of the things Cuba is known for. It seems that they have learned that tourists love the photo opportunity to pose with a cigar smoking old lady! Here, I also found La Bodeguita del Medio, the famous bar which lays claim to being the birthplace of the Mojito cocktail, prepared in the establishment since its opening in 1942. Though I would have loved to go inside, the line was fairly long and I really would have preferred to come back in the evening for a proper drink.
Cutting back across the Plaza de la Catedral, my next destination was the Plaza de Armas, Havana’s oldest square. Originally known as Plaza de Iglesia for a church that stood on the site, it was developed in the 1520s. Its current name was adopted in the late 16th century, when the governor used the site to conduct military exercises.
Today, the square is centered with a marble statue of Carlos Manuel de Cespedes and bounded by some important buildings which include the 18th century Palacio de Los Condes de Santovenia (now known as the Hotel Santa Isabel), El Templete, the Public Library, the Museum of Natural History, the Palacio del Segundo Cabo, the Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales and the Castillo de la Real Fuerza.
Museum of Natural History
Hoping to be able to visit the Castillo de la Real Fuerza before closing time, I raced around the property to find the entrance. Luckily, I was allowed inside and began my exploration of the oldest Spanish stone fortress in the Western Hemisphere.
Castillo de la Real Fuerza
Constructed between 1555 and 1577, to safeguard against pirate attacks, it later became the official residence of the Governor of Havana and served as Cuba’s National Archive and National Library. After the Revolution, it housed government offices and a museum of arms. Today, the Castillo de la Real Fuerza, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982, serves as a Museum of Ceramics and a Maritime Museum.
After making my way through the lower level and discovering the maritime artifacts located there, I ventured to the second level which houses the bulk of the Maritime Museum and includes the Naval Model-Making Salon and the Underwater Archeology Warehouse. The most spectacular part of the second level, however, is the watchtower which was added in 1634 and is now a symbol of the city. This watchtower is adorned with a bronze statuette, a replica of La Giraldilla of the Seville Cathedral and is used as a weather vane. Though I originally had no knowledge of this watchtower, it was the ladies keeping watch over the museum salons who wanted me to see what made the castle special, that unlocked the door and let me out on the balcony to see it up close!
Upon my departure from the castle, I headed back to the Plaza de Armas. As I entered the gates of El Templete, I was taken aback by the neoclassical architecture, not very common in Havana. The small Greco-Roman temple with Doric columns, dates back to 1827, and was erected in the place where it was believed that the Villa de San Cristobal de la Habana was founded in 1519. Though the workers were in the process of closing the premises for the day, they allowed me to take a quick peek to see the three valuable paintings by French painter Juan Bautista Vermey, which depict the first mass, the first council and the blessing of the Templete on its inauguration.
El Templete
Inside the courtyard, you can spy the Column of Cajigal which honors the Spanish governor in charge of its construction, an image of the Virgin of Pilar, patroness of Spanish sailors (atop the column), and a marble bust of Governor Don Hernando de Soto, the first governor of the town of San Cristobal de La Habana. The ceiba tree, a sacred symbol in various religions, is one of many that has stood on the site. The latest has existed since 1960 and on November 16, residents come to the tree after midnight, circle it three times and throw a coin to its roots and make a wish.
El Templete
Crossing the plaza, I stepped into the courtyard of the Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales, the former offical residence of the governors of Havana. Dating back to the late 1700’s, it is home to the Museum of the City of Havana and houses exhibitions of art and historical artifacts. Though I would have loved to see the interior and its original colonial decor, the palace was closing for the day.
Palacio de Los Capitanes Generales
Though I was disappointed in not having had the opportunity to visit the palace, I stepped back into the street, which I discovered was paved with wooden blocks. This was the first time I had ever seen this and believe me, it was pretty cool!
Walking past the plaza, I made my way past the Mezquita Addallah and Parque Guayasamin toward the beautiful Old Town Square. Though there are many squares and plazas throughout the city, this one was my favorite. Laid out in 1559, this square offers buildings in many different architectural styles, as well as a fountain and unique sculpture. It was here that I finally encountered the Town Dogs.
Addallah MosqueParque Guayasamin
I learned about the Town Dogs during my tour that morning but even though I had kept a keen eye out, I had not encountered any of them. The Town Dogs are designated as such by the mayor, protected and cared for by the city, each being vaccinated and sterilized. They wear a tag bearing their names and addresses and are free to roam on their own. Lounging on the steps of the Camera Obscura, I found Nina and P. Oblivious to the fact that I was excited to see them, neither were extremely cooperative about giving me a photogenic look…probably because they also had had a long day and were as tired as I was!
Old Town Square
Spying a restaurant balcony with seating across the square, I made a beeline in that general direction. The Don Eduardo Alegre Bar and Restaurant was the perfect way to relax and enjoy the amazing view below, the perfect place to enjoy a cold beer and the perfect way to end my day!
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Iglesia del Santo Angel Custodio
Address: Calle Compostela y Cuarteles Loma del Ángel, Havana Cuba
Hours: 0700-1900, daily
Admission: free
Catedral de San Cristobal
Address: Calle Empedrado 156 , La Habana Vieja, Havana, Cuba
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 0930-1700, Sunday 1030-1200, Sunday Mass at 0900.
Admission: free. Tower access, $1 CUC ($1 US)
Castello de la Real Fuerza
Address: Plaza de Armas e/Calle O’Reilly y Av. del Puerto Calle Desamparado/San Pedro, Havana Cuba
The port city of New Bedford, Massachusetts, has been the home of countless fisherman for thousands of years.
While I love sailing in and out of this port when traveling to Cuttyhunk Island, I haven’t had much of an opportunity to see what makes up the city itself.
Known as the “The Whaling City” due to its importance in the whaling industry during the nineteenth century, there is a wonderful museum which focuses on the history of the trade. Though I would have loved to have visited this institution, the Covid restrictions had closed it down until further notice.
I wasn’t in town for long…only as long as it took to get groceries and board our boat which was to take us to Cuttyhunk. As I stood guard over our belongings at the New Bedord State Pier, my friends brought over load after load destined for our stay on the island. My attention wandered from the multitude of fishing boats lining the harbor to the occasional passerby. As I finally took a turn carrying one of the many bags from the car, I noticed a statue on the edge of the pier. Taking a quick walk over, I noted the plaque set into the concrete.
The statue, which honors the fishermen of the Port of New Bedford, was installed in this spot on June 30, 2016 and designed by sculptor Erik Durant. The installation depicts the scene of a fishing family consisting of a mother standing near her fisherman husband, who is down on one knee. He holds his daughter in his lap, accepting her hugs, and has his hand on the shoulder of his son, who holds a crew cap.
The monument is quite moving and it is evident that it is one that most families of the area can relate to. With a little research, I learned that the passing of the cap to the son signifies the continuation of the fishing tradition and the clinging daughter represents the regret of the separation that the family has when the father is away. The woman stands behind the father and the children, representing those who stay behind while the fisherman are at sea.
So, I didn’t get to take a quick tour of the whaling museum, however, I stumbled upon something more significant.
One that represents the fishermen of both the past and present.
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The Fisherman’s Monument
Address: 49 State Pier, New Bedford, Massachusetts, 02740
When in Milan, everyone ensures a visit to the Duomo, the city’s wondrous cathedral.
There are, however, a great many other churches throughout the confines of the city limits, each with their own special notoriety.
Having made many trips to the Duomo, I have made it my mission to mark off each of the others on my map during my visits to Milan. One by one, I researched and chose carefully for the particularities of each. As I set out from my hotel, I made my way toward the the one that I had my eye on and it was actually just around the corner from the Duomo…Santa Maria presso San Satiro.
This Italian Renaissance structure was built from 1476 to 1482 and houses the early medieval shrine to Satyrus, brother of Saint Ambrose. Constructed on the site of a primitive place of worship, dating back to 879, the church was commissioned by the Duke Galeazzo Maria Sforza and designed by Donato Bramante. It was once an important pilgrimage site during the 13th and 14th centuries when word reached the masses that it contained an image of the Madonna that shed real blood when stabbed.
Though there are many interesting features, the one that everyone comes to see is the false apse, one of the early examples of trompe l’oeil. Working with a small plot of land within the city, there was not enough space to build the choir, the space behind the altar. The church’s dimensions had to be abridged, making the space awkwardly short. Bramante’s solution was to formulate an area by creating an optical illusion. As I walked into the space, indeed, there appears to be a real apse behind the altar, but as I made my way throughout the church and to the side of the altar, it was evident that it is only a relief applied to the back of the wall.
I must admit, I was so intrigued, I made three or four trips back and fourth from the entrance of the church to the side of the altar to compare what I was seeing.
After resolving my visions, I spent a great deal of time discovering the other treasures within the multi-naved church, including an image of Virgin with Child and Two Donors, the 15th century baptistry, several terracotta busts in the sacristy, an altarpiece of the Extasis of St. Phillip Neri by Guiseppe Peroni and outside, the Romanesque bell tower that dates back before the 1480s construction. Besides the main attraction, however, is one other major piece of artistic importance, the Cappella della Pietà, the chapel built in the 9th century to honor Saint Satiro, brother of Saint Ambrose. This chapel houses the 15th century terra-cotta Pietà and lovely Byzantine frescoes and Romanesque columns. As is throughout the rest of the church, the lighting is dim, but you can drop in 1 euro into the box so that the space will be illuminated.
The rich decorations throughout the church intrigued me as I wondered throughout investigating every niche. The ceiling of the main nave was golden and lent to the warm glow throughout and the beautiful tri-chrome floor under the magnificent dome was spectacular.
Exiting the church, I turned to re-examine the facade which remained largely unfinished, until the 19th century, due to disagreements between the architect and the executor Giovanni Antonio Amadeo. Tucked away behind the gates, on Via Torino, its quite easy to realize how many people would walk on by, mesmerized by lure of the great Duomo which lies a short distance away.
Don’t walk on by. Don’t go to the Duomo.
Step through the gates and discover this work of artistic and archaeological importance!
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And how many years have I tried to get tickets to the Last Supper?
Too many!
Never spending more than twenty four hours each time in Milan, it was a difficult decision to spend money on something that might not happen. Weather might move in. Sickness might strike. A car accident could render me stranded on the roadside. And, I would not make it to Milan.
You get the picture.
So, each time I looked for tickets to see the Last Supper the day before or even the day of, there were none. Even testing my luck, I had gone to the office and inquired, thinking they might feel a bit of pity and suddenly find “one” ticket. Detecting a bit of laughter behind their comments, directing me to come back first thing the next morning, I always walked away defeated.
After a long night in flight, I was riding to my hotel and browsing the internet. Divine intervention must have inspired me and I suddenly felt the need to check for Last Supper Tickets. Imagine my astonishment to find a site that had one ticket left!
Quickly entering my information, I made the purchase and was so excited that I could hardly take my much needed nap!
My admission time was for later in the day, so I did get that much needed nap, even allowing enough time to visit the church next door, Santa Maria delle Grazie, afterward.
Sitting in the piazza, I watched the various tour groups meet their guides, anxiously awaiting the arrival of mine. Of course, I let my imagination get the best of me, thinking that I had stumbled upon a fake web site and no one would be here to greet me. Finally, walking around, I inquired with a couple of the other guides about my tour and started to meet the members of our group…yet still no guide.
Eventually, we were told by the gentleman, who was there to give our guide the audio-earpieces for us to wear, that our guide was running a bit late, but would be here with us for our admission time. Finally, we spotted him quickly walking down the street and we were soon verifying our tickets and receiving our earpieces. We entered the building, passing through security and took our place in the long hall, readying for our time to enter the airlocks which protect the Last Supper from the elements.
First door, last door…we were in.
And nothing prepared me.
Many years ago, I went to the Louvre and was excited to see the Mona Lisa. It was only when I arrived at its location, deep inside the museum, that I found that it is so much smaller than I anticipated.
This was the opposite!
I expected The Last Supper to be quite small, much like the Mona Lisa, and instead found that it took up the entire wall of the right side of the building. And not only that, The Crucifixion by Giovanni Donato da Montorfano takes up the opposite wall! Certainly, I never expected to see two masterpieces in the same room!
Our guide was very informative and explained each of the paintings to us, pointing out every small detail that we may have not noticed on our own.
The Last Supper was commissioned by Ludovico Sforza, the Duke of Milan, to be painted in the monastery of Santa Maria delle Grazie and was completed in 1498. A representation of the meal that Jesus shared with his apostles, it shows the different reactions that each portrayed when Jesus shared the news that one of them would betray him. It is topped by the Sforza coats of arms painted in the lunettes that are formed by the triple arched ceiling of the refectory. What I found most interesting was that Leonardo da Vinci wandered the streets looking for likenesses to base the figures of the painting on. When the monastery’s prior complained about da Vinci’s laziness about finding someone upon which to base Judas, da Vince responded that the prior would make a great model!
On the opposite end of the building is the Crucifixion, which depicts the crucifixion of Jesus Christ outside of Jerusalem. At the foot of the cross bearing Jesus, is Mary Magdalene, Saint Dominic, founder of the Dominicans, Saint Thomas of Aquinas as well as other saints and leaders from the Dominican order. Figures of the Sforza family are incorporated into the painting.
During World War II, bombings threatened the existence of the church, monastery and the paintings. As Allied Leaders bombed many major European cities, the walls of the refectory were reinforced with sandbags and scaffolding to help protect the two paintings within.
When a high-explosive bomb landed eighty feet away on August 15, 1943, it was thought that all was lost. The building’s roof had caved in, the cloister had collapsed and one whole wall was blown out.
Miraculously, the paintings had survived.
The Last Supper and the Crucifixion have endured for many years since, yet both now are in an extremely fragile state and acute measures have been extended to their care. Both paintings now reside in a climate controlled atmosphere and much work has taken place to restore some of the former glory to the paintings. Only limited viewings are available (twenty-five people every fifteen minutes) each day and a state of the art infiltration system was recently installed. Despite all of these efforts, however, they may not be around for younger generations to appreciate in the coming years.
Some things last a long time, however, nothing lasts forever, so if you can get to Milan sooner than later and get tickets for Leonardo’s masterpiece…run don’t walk! It is one of the most enlightening experiences in all of Italy!
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Most churches can be construed as museums. Filled with religious works of art and exhibiting stunning architectural features, you can enter, in most cases, without paying an exorbitant fee and spend as much time as you wish, not only viewing the treasures, but spending a bit of time in solitude and contemplation.
The Church of St. Fedele is not only much like I described, but it is the only church in Milan that really does have a real art museum within its walls.
After visiting La Scala Theater, I noticed that St. Fedele Church was just around the corner. It was starting to sprinkle and if I was lucky, it would take up a bit of the time I needed to kill before dinner. Pointing myself in that direction, I covered the short distance quickly and stepped into the large square, admiring the statue of Alessandro Manzoni, the Italian poet and novelist.
The Jesuit church, which dates back to 1579 and is dedicated to St. Fidelis of Como, took the title of Santa Maria alla Scala in San Fedele when Santa Maria alla Scala was demolished in 1776 to make way for the Teatro alla Scala. Much of the destroyed church’s ornamentation from that church was brought to San Fedele.
The elegant facade which stands out in the St. Fedele Square today, was completed in 1835, however, many years later, during World War II, the church was severely damaged during a bombing raid. Though since repaired, the exterior should be examined thoroughly as it features a group of statues representing the Assumption, designed by Italian sculptor, Gaetano Matteo Monti.
The interior is a single nave church with tall columns, but adorned less ornately than others I have seen throughout Italy. There are, however, some notable pieces, including a Pietà by Simone Peterzano, a St. Ignatius by Giovanni Battista Crespi (il Cerano) a Transfiguration by Bernardino Campi, and a “Sacred Heart” by Lucio Fontana.
As I made my way around the church, I decided that it might be a short visit after all. Admiring the altar and the sanctuary, I was approached by a gentleman who asked if I would like to see the other parts of the church. He explained that St. Fedele is unlike any other in the city as it incorporates an art museum within its walls. Intrigued, I paid him the three euro entrance fee and was admitted to the sacristy.
As I made my way through the rooms of contemplation…the sacristy, the crypt, the sacellum, and the chapel of the dancers…I noticed the ancient reliquaries, liturgical objects and paintings that are usually found in religious spaces. There were also, however, works of art by Christo, Warhol, Arman, Rotella, Schifano and Radice, all collected by artist, designer and architect Nanda Vigo throughout his life. Overall, an experience that showed how important art and culture were to the Jesuits.
SacristyArt pieces mixed with religious icons at entrance to sacristy
Chapel of the Dancers
Art installation
What I enjoyed most, however, was what lies beneath the church. In the crypt, there are the remains of St. Fidelis, however, in a small airtight room on the right, there are the Relics of the 365-day Calendar. The little shrines are organized in daily order from Jauary 1 until December 31 and contain the relics of all the saints of the Catholic calendar that have been canonized until the beginning of the 19th century.
Making my way up to the church’s main level, glancing at my watch, I realized how much time had passed since I had made my way here. There was a great deal to see and experience, unlike my first impression.
Ancient artists have demonstrated over the centuries that there is a direct link between art and faith…just look at the treasures that adorn most churches. St. Fedele brings it to a new level and a new century with modern art.
Just remember, when Michaelangelo’s Pieta was placed in St. Peter’s Basilica, and he was alive, it was modern art!
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The Church of San Fedele
Address: San Fedele Street, 4, 20121, Milan
Hours: Monday and Tuesday, 0730-1630. Wednesay through Friday, 0730-1800. Saturday, 1000-1930. Sunday, 1000-2000.
Admission: Free to visit the church. San Fidele art exhibition in the sacristy and rooms of contemplation, €3
Getting There: Metro, Lines M1 and M3, Duomo stop or Tram, Line 1, The closest station: Duomo (Metro Lines M1 and M3), Teatro alla Scala stop.
Sometimes, I just love to walk around the city photographing the buildings, never having a plan and enjoying stumbling upon anything and everything.
Just recently, I was in search of a particular landmark and was a bit stumped. As I stood on the corner of Via degli Omenoni and Via Adalberto Catena, pondering which way to go, I glanced down the street and a remarkable building caught my eye. There were giant men holding up the facade! Well, not real men…stone men!
A nearby sign gave me the information that I needed…this was Casa degli Omenoni.
Casa degli Omenoni was designed by sculptor Leone Leoni as his place of residence during the 16th century. The sculptor, known for his bronze statues of Felipe II and Carlos V (which now can be found in the Prado Museum) conceived the idea for his home and place of work, however, the “omenoni” or “big men” were sculpted by Antonio Abondio, a renowned artist of the time.
Though the interior once contained a large inventory of paintings and other works of art, including the Codex Atlanticus, a book of drawings by Leonardo da Vinci, these treasures are now preserved in museums throughout the world.
Eventually sold by Leoni’s son, the home was owned by several notable Milanese families, used as the seat of a music-publishing company, the seat of a Fascist party and as a theater. Although the interior was renovated in both the 19th and 20th centuries, the facade remains largely unchanged except for the addition of the wrought iron balconies.
The exterior of the building was quite fascinating with the eight giants gracing the spaces between the windows and flanking the door frames. The men look quite ominous with scowls upon their faces and arms crossed. Honestly, I don’t think an intruder would dare to approach this residence with these wardens protecting the entrance!
You should, however, approach! Much like the “Monster House” in Rome, Casa degli Omenoni is an exquisite piece of architecture and a quick stop on your tour of Milan!
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Casa degli Omenoni
Address: Via degli Omenoni, 3, 20121,
Hours: 24 hours
Admission: Exterior free. Interior not open to public.
Getting There: A quick walk from La Scala, located behind the church of St. Fidele. Closest metro stops, Duomo, Cordusio and Montenapoleone.
