Tag: architecture

Meet Me There

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

One of the things I love about European cities is their public squares.

At any hour of the day, you can find people sitting on the benches, relaxing, talking and watching their children play. They are also the perfect meeting points for those coming together from various points in the city.

Many of these squares have beautiful fountains and artwork and are attractive to tourists for their outdoor cafes, perfect for people watching.

My favorite square in Madrid, is the Plaza Mayor. One of the first places I ever visited years ago, I still love it’s warm medieval ambiance, the many restaurants that spill into the plaza, the performers and the multitude of traditional artists that come each day and night to sell their wares. As proof, many of their paintings grace the walls of my home.

Plaza Mayor
Street Performers

In the heart of Madrid, the Plaza Mayor was first built during the Hapsburg period of Philip III’s reign in the 15th century, just down the road from another famous plaza, Puerta del Sol. It was originally named, Plaza del Arrabal and used as the main market. After the plaza’s transferral to the city of Madrid in 1561, renovations resulted and after three major fires in its history, what you see today can be credited to architect Juan de Villanueva who lowered the surrounding buildings, closed the corners and created large entrances to the square.

Measuring 423 feet by 308 feet, the square contains 237 balconies, nine gates and a statue of Philip III on a horse in the center. In the past, executions and bullfights were once held here, but today, its major (and much milder) events include the annual Christmas market and on Sunday mornings, a stamp collecting and coin collecting market.

Plaza Mayor Gate
Statue of Philip III

Next to the Plaza Mayor, on Arco de Cuchillero Street, is something that should not be missed on a visit to Madrid. The Restaurante Botin, one of my favorites, which is the oldest restaurant in the world and offers some affordable and delectable culinary delights.

Another spot that people meet in Madrid is close by…Puerta del Sol. Not only a meeting spot now, but a popular location in the past.

Between the 17th and 19th centuries, the Puerta del Sol’s Post Office was the destination for couriers coming from other areas of Spain. Residents, eager for the latest news, would congregate in the hopes of gleaning what they could from the couriers and each other.

The square originated as one of the gates in the city wall that once surrounded Madrid in the 15th century. The name of the gate, which faced east, came from the rising sun which decorated the entry. Today, there is no trace of the ancient wall or the gate, but there are other landmarks that many descend upon the area to see.

The former House of the Post Office, by Jacques Marquet was completed in 1768, now houses the seat of the Presidency of the Madrid Community. Situated across the street from the square, you can also find Kilometer Zero embedded in the sidewalk just under the building’s clock tower. This monumental slab marks the point from which the distances of Spain’s national roads are measured and specifically the starting point for measuring the distances of the country’s six national roads. It is also the starting point for Madrid’s numbered streets. The closer to the kilometer mark 0, the lower the street number.

Old Post Office
Kilometer Zero Plaque

Within the square, you can find a mounted statue of Charles III of Spain (El Rey Alcalde, the mayor-king) who is honored here for the extensive public works he set in motion.

Statue of Charles III

Another famous statue is The Bear and the Strawberry Tree (el Osso y el Madroño) which is the symbol of Madrid. I will always remember this statue as once I was instructed to meet someone there, not knowing it had been moved (in 2009) from the north side at the entrance to Calle del Carmen. Needless to say, I couldn’t find it and my name was mud with the person the next day!

The Bear and the Strawberry Tree

Another interesting statue found in the square is the Mariblanca. This statue is a copy, possibly of the famous Venus de Milo and marks the place of a former fountain displaying that figure.

My favorite thing in the square, however, can be found high overhead. The Tío Pepe lighted sign is located above the square’s former Paris Hotel. After a three year absence for renovation of the building, the sign, was returned to its original location in 2014. Tío Pepe (Spanish for Uncle Joe) has been greeting visitors to Puerta del Sol, since 1938, while enticing them to try the famous brand of Sherry.

Tio Pepe Sign

Puerta del Sol has been the site of many demonstrations over the years, but mainly attracts visitors for its shopping, restaurants and sites. Not to be missed, if you find yourself traveling through the city on Madrid’s extensive metro and are passing through Sol, jump on out and check it out.

Just recently, I had the pleasure to stay near the Plaza de España. This beautiful square exhibits more of a park like feel and is extremely peaceful, though still located in an extremely urban area.

Located at the intersection of Grand Vía and Princesa streets, there is a large number of hotels, shopping and restaurants located nearby as well as the Royal Palace.

Despite the many attractions located in this area, however, many people come to Plaza España to see the Cervantes Monument, sculpted by Rafael Martínez Zapatero and Lorenzo Cullaut Valera. Commissioned by King Alfonso XIII on the anniversary of the publication of the second part of Don Quixote, the main part of the fountain with the figures of Don Quixote and his squire Sancho Panzo was erected in the 1920’s but not fully completed until the 1960’s when the sculptures of Aldonza and Dulcinea were added on the side.

Cervantes Monument
Cervantes Monument, rear

Two architecturally important buildings flank the square, Torre Madrid and Edificio Espana, two of the tallest buildings in Madrid, thrilling those impressed by progress. For those, however, who want to enjoy nature, Plaza España offers shaded and wooded areas, a fountain and pond and seasonal landscaping.

Torre Madrid and Edificio Espana

After a long walk, I grabbed a seat opposite the monument to rest and enjoy the view. Glancing at my watch, I noticed it to be almost five, the time I had planned to meet a friend here. After my long walk from Puerta del Sol and Plaza Mayor, my feet were enjoying the respite and my eyes were enjoying the natural and architectural gems set before me.

Maybe I should have made it five-thirty…

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Plaza Mayor

Puerta del Sol

Plaza de España



My Favourite Palace

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Fascinated by Britain’s Royal family?

Many people love to follow the Royal family. Though I am not one of them, I do enjoy seeing the way others live, including the Royal family.

Never having had the opportunity to procure tickets to Buckingham Palace, I have, however, had the opportunity to visit Kensington Palace, Windsor Castle, Hampton Court and the Palace of Holyroodhouse. It is quite interesting to view the ornate rooms and learn of the history of those who resided in these opulant manors.

In London, with time to kill, I decided that I had to venture out into the cold, but clear day. The sky was a vivid blue and although frigid, it was enjoyable to venture down High Street with no particular destination in mind. Soon finding myself in Kensington Gardens, drawn in by the sparkling lake and well manicured lawn, I stood before Kensington Palace.

Having seen the Oscar nominated movie, The Favourite, I was intrigued to learn that an exhibit on the movie’s costumes was being held within the palace.

Why not?

Paying my admission, I began my re-exploration of the royal residence that has been in the family since the 17th century and is currently the official London residence of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge (William and Kate), the Duke and Duchess of Sussex (Harry and Meghan), Princess Eugenie and her husband, Jack Brooksbank, the Duke and Duchess of Glouchester, the Duke and Duchess of Kent and Prince and Princess Michael of Kent.

Though you won’t see any of these high profile residents roaming the halls, it is interesting to venture through the State Rooms which display many paintings and other objects from the Royal Collection.

The self guided tour directed me through the King’s State Apartments, which were the public rooms where George II and Queen Caroline entertained important guests. In the early 1700s, the King and Queen moved into the palace after the death of his father George I. Grand parties were hosted here in the lavish rooms and you can take note of the elaborate murals and paintings that grace the walls and ceilings.

Moving through the King’s Gallery, I learned that it was refurbished by George II after his arrival and was intended as a gallery for the finest pictures of the Royal Collection. The Cupola Room was used for entertaining more than official business and was the site of musical performance dancing and gambling.

Arriving at the Queen’s Apartments, the oldest part of the palace, it was here that Queen Mary II, who ruled with her husband, King Willam III in the 17th century, spent much of her time. Many portraits of William III, Mary II, Charles I and Henry VIII were hung in the Privy Chamber by Caroline to reinforce the German born couple’s legitimate right to the British throne.

The red damask covered Presence Chamber, offered a look at the space where King George II received ambassadors, men of ideas and ordinary people. An audience with the King could change a person’s life and many were brought here asking for favors or seeking royal approval. In 1734, the King and Queen received an Indian chief and his attendants from the new Americas colony, Georgia.

The Queen’s Drawing Room was where Mary spent much of her time. Her beautifully adorned bed can be seen in the Queen’s Bedroom and was where Mary’s half-brother may have been born at St. James’ Palace in 1688.

The Dining Room was a bit smaller than I imagined and possibly the place where Mary took in her meals when she desired privacy. Moving through the Queen’s closet, I learned of the story of how Mary contracted smallpox, dying and leaving William to rule alone.

Finally, it was in the extended Gallery where I finally discovered the exhibition of the costumes from The Favourite. Though there were some paper mache duplications that I had encountered in the King’s State Apartments, it was here that the actual costumes were on display. It was quite thrilling to see them up close and remember the scenes that they played a vital role.

Princess Diana, though now gone for almost twenty-two years, has remained fondly in the memory of the world. The palace recognizes that there are many who are still fascinated with her lifestyle and legacy and I was glad to see the permanent exhibit, Diana, Her Fashion Story was still available for viewing. Pictures of Diana grace the walls, along with quotes and stories, however, it is the glass cases that contain the showstoppers…a large number of Diana’s outfits worn for various occasions. Each outfit contains a placard and picture that describes the occasion worn as well as the designer of the ensemble.

The last room that we were able to inspect contained some of the royal jewels, including Queen Victoria’s Emerald Necklace, Earrings and Broach, The Fife Diamond Tiara, given to Princess Louise, Queen Victoria’s granddaughter, by her husband, the Duke of Fife and Princess Louise’s Diamond Necklace Tiara, gifts from her parents which can also be transformed into a necklace.

Eventually, I made my way through the gift shop and out into the gardens. Though the pond was drained for winter maintenance and nothing was in bloom, it was interesting to stop and imagine what it might look like in a couple of months with the approaching warmer weather.

With an hour of so of daylight remaining, I decided to make the most of the afternoon and walked out to the lake. Hundreds of birds, including graceful swans swam through the cold water looking for a handout from the children who had come prepared with bags of bread crusts. Though I am a bit afraid of the aggressive, feathered creatures, it was nice to capture some close-up photographs.

Eventually, with waning light, it was time to head back to High Street to search for dinner. Though I had visited the Palace a few years prior, it was nice to see it once again and especially to enjoy The Favourite exhibition.

Makes me want to go and see the movie again!

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Kensington Palaceh

  • https://www.hrp.org.uk/kensington-palace/#gs.1yxbr4
  • Address: Kensington Gardens, London W8 4PX, UK
  • Hours: Daily, 1000-1800, last admission, 1700
  • Admission: Adults, £19.50, Children, £9.70
  • Getting There: London Underground, High Street Kensington Station, Circle and District lines and 10-15 minute walk. Queensway Station, Central line and 10-15 minute walk, Notting Hill Station, Central, Circle and District lines and 20-25 minute walk. Bus, routes 70, 94, 148, 390 (to Bayswater Road) and
    routes 9, 10, 49, 52, 70, 452 (to Kensington High Street).

Another Arch

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

When I first visited Paris, one of the first things I remember (besides the Eiffel Tower), was the Arc de Triomphe. Located near my hotel, I was fascinated by the grand structure which seemed to have a constant stream of cars driving around it at all hours.

On another trip, I discovered an arch in Milan in the Piazza Sempione, and yet another, in Rome, the Arch of Constantine.

Hey wait, just how many arches are there? I thought this was a Parisian thing!

How wrong I was!

Triumphal arches are the most distinctive type of architecture that is associated with ancient Rome. These arches were mainly used for various reasons, mainly to commemorate the founding of new colonies, generals’ victories, construction of roadways and bridges, deaths of members of the imperial family or the accession of a new emperor.

These arches often span roadways, have one or more arched passageways and are decorated with carvings, sculpted reliefs and dedications.

Arches in the Roman style have been constructed in many cities around the world. Yes, the Arc de Triomphe, Milan’s Arco della Pace and Arch of Constantine, but there are so many more, including the Narva Triumphal Arch in Saint Petersburg, the Wellington Arch in London, the Arcul de Triumf in Bucharest, the India Gate in Delhi, the Arch of Caracalla in Tebessa, Algeria, Arch of Titus in Rome, the Siegestor in Munich and the Soldiers’ and Sailors’ Arch in New York, just to name a few.

A few years later, while walking around in Barcelona, I was surprised to see another arch, very similar to the one in Paris, without the cars. Instead, there were many people walking around and through the arch onto the promenade of the Passeig de Lluis Companys.

Barcelona’s Arc de Triomf was built as the main access gate for the 1888 World Fair, by Josep Vilaseca, and still stands today, a true icon of the city. As it once welcomed visitors, it does so today, guiding them to the Parc de la Ciutadella.

On the day that I decided to revisit this monument, the afternoon was one of those that are hard to duplicate on a winter’s day. The sun was radiant, the sky brilliantly clear and the temperature extremely mild. Hundreds of people walked along the Passeig de Lluis Companys, enjoying the climate’s perfection!

As I approached the arch from Avenida de Vilanova, I marveled at the reddish brickwork standing vividly against the blue sky. The front frieze contains the stone sculpture Barcelona rep les nacions (“Barcelona welcomes the nations”) by Josep Reynes. Walking along the sides of the arch, I studied the friezes which include the stories of agriculture and industry by Antoni Vilanova and of trade and art by Torquat Tassó. The two pillars of the arch feature carved bats, something unexpected, but what I learned, were the emblem of King Jaume I, who ruled Barcelona during a period of prosperity. As I walked through the arch to the other side, I marveled at the number of people out and about as well as vendors hawking everything from jewelry to balloons.

Making my way to the concrete gates that line the Passeig de Lluis Companys, I stopped to study amazing urns that top the concrete gate, while occasionally dodging a biker or two. I especially enjoyed studying the unique lighting structures that also provide seating for visitors as well as a couple of interesting statues, including one of Pau Claris, an important political figure who proclaimed the Catalan Republic under the protection of France.

The best way to appreciate the arch, however, is to stop, turn and take a look at it every so often as you walk toward the Parc de la Ciutadella. Its amazing to see even from afar with the palm trees that line the walkway, framing its beauty.

So…how many have triumphal arches have I seen so far? About five…but with many trips planned for the future, I will be sure to seek them all out.

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Arc de Triomf

The Water Tower

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Looking outside my window of my hotel room in Barcelona, I spy a strange-looking cylinder decorating the skyline.

Torre Glòries…formerly known as the Torre Agbar.

The contemporary bullet-shaped landmark ascends from Plaça de les Glòries and fills the skyline with the reflected colors of the Mediterranean by day and a multi-hued schemes by night. Though seemingly out of place among the more commonly shaped buildings, I rather enjoy its presence as it always lets me know where I am in the city.

Inaugurated in 2003, the iconic landmark was designed by Atelier Jean Nouvel to act as the headquarters for the water company, Grup Agbar. Often described as a water tower by the uninformed, because of its owners, it is not that in the true sense of the description, but rather only an office building. Standing just over 473 feet tall, it utilizes solar power and is covered with different colored glass louvers which can be tilted at different angles. These window blinds are regulated by temperature sensors (regulating the consumption of energy for air conditioning) and are illuminated by 4,500 LED devices. During holidays and other events, the tower’s lighting scheme can easily be changed by computer.

Though it is the third tallest building in the city and one for which the city has become known, it has not come about without it critics. Opened in June 2005, to a cost of 130 million euros, its design concept was described by the architect as one of a geyser spouting upward, the perfect home for a water company, though further leading people to believe it to be a water tower. It has also been said to have been inspired by the nearby mountain, Montserrat. Many others have also described the tower as having a phallic character. This unusual shape has garnered it several nicknames, el supositori (“the suppository”), l’obús (“the shell”) and it has been said that its round shape does not foster a productive environment for those who work within its walls.

The tower, though touted as a tourist attraction, is one that can only viewed from afar. Many tour groups and the Hop On, Hop Off buses offer it as a stopping point on their circuits, however, it is not open to the general public…such a waste as I had once read that it had intended to offer an observation deck. Views of the city from this location would have been unparalleled. However, even viewing it from the outside, it is still a landmark that cannot be missed. Go on a clear, blue-sky day and you won’t be disappointed with how beautiful it stands out against the heavens.

And, at night, check its location against the skyline to get your bearings…but seeing the luminous beauty of this water tower is even more wonderful!

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Torre Glòries (Torre Agbar)

  • http://www.torreagbar.com/
  • Address: Avinguda Diagonal, 211, 08018 Barcelona, Spain
  • Hours: Not open to the public
  • Admission: Not open to the public
  • Getting There: Metro stop, Glòries.

The Cathedral On the Square

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

As I stood before the regal, St. Louis Cathedral in the French Quarter, I watched a line of small schoolchildren, hand in hand, make their way to the entrance.

This brought me back to the day, when as a schoolchild on a field trip, I stood on this exact spot, mesmerized the city’s most notable landmark…one, known worldwide by its central position towering over iconic Jackson Square and its neighbors, the Cabildo and the Presbytere.

Though this beautiful cathedral is one for which the city is known, and is the oldest Catholic cathedral in continual use in the United States, few realize that The Cathedral-Basilica of St. Louis is actually the third Roman Catholic church to have stood on the site. When the city was founded, the first church erected here, in 1718, was a basic wooden structure for the early colonists’ worship. In 1725, the construction of a larger brick and timber church was begun and completed in 1727. When the Great New Orleans Fire ravaged the city in 1788, the church was destroyed. Rebuilding ensued and the new church was completed in 1794 with the church being elevated to cathedral rank. After a massive renovation to enlarge the structure was begun in 1849, resulting in the collapse of the central tower, it was finally decided to demolish most of the church resulting in very little of the Spanish Colonial structure remaining.

Today, what we can observe in Jackson Square dates back to 1850, however, the bell from the 1819 tower was reused and still there today.

The cathedral was designated a minor basilica by Pope Paul VI in 1965, but in front of the cathedral, you can spy a beautiful statue of Pope John Paul II, a gift of the Archdiocese of New Orleans and the American Italian Cultural Center. It was blessed by Pope Francis in Saint Peter’s Square and commemorates Pope John Paul II’s visit to the cathedral in 1987.

Entering the cathedral, I found the interior to be a well lit space though not as ornate one would expect. My eyes were immediately drawn upward to the beautifully detailed ceiling centered with a painting of St. Peter receiving his shepherd’s staff from the Savior and surrounded by apostles. Walking through the center aisle, I made my way to the great high Rococo style gilded altar flanked and topped by intricate statues. The three statues on the top represent faith, hope and charity and St. Paul, on the left of the tabernacle holds a book and St. Peter on the right, holds a book. Other statues with the cathedral depict St. Joan of Arc, Our Lady of Prompt Succor, St. Joseph, St. Anthony of Padua and the Sacred Heart of Jesus. In the foyer are statues of Mary, Queen of Poor Souls and St. Therese of Lisieux.

The cathedral is divided into nave and side aisles by two rows of wooden columns with an upper gallery lined with the flags of six countries and several local Catholic Dioceses. Passing through these columns, I made my way to the outer walls of the cathedral to inspect the beautifully rendered depictions of St. Louis IX, which tell stories of the saint’s life.

Glancing up at the organ, I admired its simplistic beauty. I later learned, however, that when Hurricane Katrina roared through the city in 2005, not much was spared including the cathedral. The powerful winds ripped a hole in the roof, which allowed water to enter, damaging the Holtkamppipe organ. The organ was sent back to Holtkamp to be rebuilt and finally reinstalled three years later.

Speaking with a volunteer docent, I also learned a couple of interesting tidbits about the cathedral. The cathedral contains the remains of eight New Orleans bishops. Another body buried in the church is Fr. Antonio de Sedella, commonly known as Père Antoine, who was a priest in the church. What is most intriguing about Père Antoine is that he loved his position at this particular location so deeply that he is alleged to haunt the premises. Accounts of parishioners and tourists claim that he walks the alley (named after him) next to the cathedral in the early mornings and appears during Christmas Midnight Mass near the left side of the altar, holding a a candle.

Another apparition often seen at the cathedral is that of Père Dagobert, a monk who resided in the church. If you visit on a rainy day, you might hear his voice chanting the Kyrie.

Although a Catholic house of worship, the cathedral has a rich history and appeals to visitors of all faiths and nationalities as evidenced by the large number of visitors meandering through the building while I was there. While wandering the French Quarter, have a look inside, attend Mass or better yet, try to get a glimpse of Père Antoine or Père Dagobert. All experiences you will never forget!

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St. Louis Cathedral

  • http://www.stlouiscathedral.org/
  • Address: 615 Pere Antoine Alley, New Orleans, LA 70116
  • Hours: Daily, 0830-1600. Daily Mass, 12:05
  • Tours: Self-guided brochures are available in the entrance for a $1.00 donation. Visitors can get an impromptu tour from our volunteer docents when available. Guided tours for groups are only available with prior reservations.
  • Admission: free
  • Tours: Self-guided brochures are available in the entrance for $1.00 donation and impromptu tours are available from volunteer docents when present.
  • Getting There: By bus, lines #5 and #55. By streetcar, line #49, found at St. Anne Street, 5 blocks northwest of the cathedral.

City of the Dead

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Is it strange to love visiting cemeteries?

Not really.

I have been to some of the most famous cemeteries in the world;
Pere Lachaise in France, La Recoleta in Bueno Aires, Monumentale in Milan, just to name a few. The history, architecture and craftsmanship that can be viewed in each of these places is unparalleled.

Having grown up in Louisiana, seeing graves that are raised above the ground is nothing new to me. Because the water table is so high, graves would fill with water and the buoyant casket would seek to float, eventually popping out of the ground. Because of this dilemma, it was decided, hundreds of years ago, that tombs would be built above the ground to house the departed. Some tombs were (and still are) built to accommodate one casket and others, built on a grander scale could accommodate an entire family…some so large that they resemble small homes or chapels. Visitors to the south, however, are intrigued with our burial system and some of the most beautiful and immense tombs can be found in many of the New Orleans cemeteries…a sort of city of the dead.

St. Louis Cemeteries 1 and 2, located near the French Quarter, are both on the National Register of Historic Places and feature the tombs of several historic individuals and families including Voodoo Queen Marie Laveau, Henriette Delille, Foundress of the Sisters of the Holy Family (presently awaiting canonization), Daniel Clark, financial supporter of the American Revolution and Jacques N.B. de Pouilly, architect of the St. Louis Cathedral.

Since I have seen some of the most famous cemeteries in the world, it was a given that I had to visit the most notable one in New Orleans, St. Louis Cemetery #1. Located a short walk from the city’s French Quarter, it was quite easy to locate, however, once I arrived, I was informed that I would be required to join a tour. With over 100,000 visitor’s each year, the cemetery has been subject to extreme vandalism. Hoping to preserve the sanctity of the cemetery, guests are now required to enter the premises with a licensed guide.

Paying my admittance fee, I waited patiently for the tour to start and was soon joined by Australians, Ethiopians and Italians, proving that curiosity about the oldest cemetery (built in 1789) and its inhabitants has a worldwide reach.

Eagerly following our tour guide, Steve, as he wove his way around the monumental tombs, we first learned how economical vaults were built into the cemetery walls. It was quite interesting to see the wall vaults stacked one above the other, with some now only partially visible near the ground, evidence that the below sea level city is sinking. These vaults contain the remains of many family members within the tomb. After the family member passes, the remains go untouched for a year and a day and then are pushed to the rear of the vault, making room for the next unfortunate soul.

In the center of the property. we witnessed white walls and roofs blocking our view of the entire cemetery. Here, the larger crypts also hold many family members within their massive walls.

With the cemetery being one of the oldest in the city, it is a given that many of the graves are in various states of repair…some taken care of by family, some by volunteers, some by process of having purchased Perpetual Care and many long forgotten. Crumbling and overgrown with moss and fern, the former graves’ appearance lends itself to the creepy image that many envision when thinking of old cemeteries and though you would think that many a horror movie would be shot here, filming is not allowed.

We waited patiently for our turn to stand in front of one of the most famous gravesites in St. Louis #1…the location where it is believed that Marie Laveau is entombed…next door to the former mayor, Dutch Morial, the first African American to hold the office. Laveau’s grave is marked with faded Xs, once a common practice in petitioning the deceased soul. It was believed that the Voodoo priestess would grant your wish if you marked the tomb, placed your hand over it, rubbed your foot three times against the bottom, placed some silver coins in the cup. Since this is actually desecration of a gravesite, it is evidently one of the reasons why visitors are only allowed in the cemetery with an escort.

We passed the tomb of Paul Morphy, who passed away in 1884 at the age of 47, and is considered to have been the greatest chess master of his era. Considered a chess prodigy, he was described by Bobby Fischer as “perhaps the most accurate player who ever lived”. His grave is aptly marked with chess pieces.

As we turned to head further into the cemetery, we could all see the tip of what appeared to be a pyramid. In much newer condition that most of the other tombs, we were informed that it belongs to the actor Nicolas Cage. Though he now resides in Las Vegas, the performer once lived in New Orleans, at 1140 Royal Street (believe it or not!) in the LaLaurie Mansion! His pyramid presently stands dignified but empty, awaiting his demise.

How is it that someone like Nicholas Cage gets to be buried in St. Louis #1? Well, if you have $40,000, you can too. The steep price will buy you a plot next to some of New Orleans’ most notorious residents.

Following our guide, we continued on to the towering Italian Mutual Benevolent Society’s marble tomb, which was designed by architect Pietro Gualdi in 1857. Designed in the Baroque style, it includes three elegantly carved marble statues of female figures; one holding a cross crowning the top, one in a niche above the engraving “Italia” and another out of view in a niche on the left representing “Charity”. It contains 24 vaults which were for the temporary use of the society’s members whose bones would remain in the tomb for about a year and then removed and placed in a receptacle in the tomb’s basement. Nearby, are the Portuguese Burial Society and the New Orleans Musicians Tombs which operate on the same premise at the Italian Benevolent Society, giving those of the association a place to be buried.

At the rear of the cemetery, we were directed to the Protestant section, which was assigned to the Christ Church (Episcopal) for the burial of non-Catholics. All that remains of this area, however, is the area between the wall vaults and some brick walls. Between 1822-1838, the burials from the Protestant section, which extended beyond the back wall, were transferred to the Girod Street Cemetery to make way for neighborhood development. What I found interesting, however, was that non-Catholic burials have always been allowed in any part of the cemetery and some Catholics were actually buried in the Protestant section.

Nearby, we found the grave of Étienne de Boré, a local plantation owner and an important person to the sugar cane industry famous for producing the first granulated sugar in Louisiana. Making the sugar cane crop profitable for local farmers, the industry still continues strong today with more than 400,000 acres of land in 22 Louisiana parishes producing approximately 13 million tons yearly and employing about 17,000 employees.

It was quite interesting and yet peaceful to walk among the decrepit graves in the cold, winter morning and I thought it a pity that others’ desecration of the cemetery had made it hard for those of us who might like to take their time wandering among the lesser know grave sites instead of being ushered along by our guide in his attempt to keep the tour at the allotted forty-five minute limit.

The cemetery has been preserved as best as it can be and with the new fees imposed by the Archdiocese, it is the hope that the cemetery will be available for all to enjoy for hundreds of years to come. Security has been added and through the hard work of the caretakers, St. Louis Cemetery #1 will remain open to the public. One caretaker devoted most of his life to the care and preservation of this historic place, Alexander “Buddy” Anspecker. Working in the location for 41 years, he could always be counted on for his dedication and descriptive tours of the historic tombs.

Finally, however, I learned something very interesting…something that brought my adventures full circle.

The day before I had sought out the LaLaurie Mansion on Royal Street. Earlier in the tour, I learned that actor Nicolas Cage had resided in the LaLaurie Mansion. On this day, however, I learned that though it was thought that Madame Marie Delphine LaLaurie had died in France, in a boar-hunting accident, a caretaker of the cemetery, Eugene Backes (many years before “Buddy”), discovered an old cracked, copper plate in Alley 4 of the cemetery. The inscription read, “Madame Lalaurie, née Marie Delphine Maccarthy, décédée à Paris, le 7 Décembre, 1842, à l’âge de 6–.” declaring that perhaps, Madame LaLaurie had returned from France to rest among the distinguished departed residents of St. Louis #1.

Though we were not made privy to the location of this copper plate, it gives rise to the notion that New Orleans’ history is quite complex and interwoven.

The walk to St. Louis Cemetery #1 is a short one and although the price a bit steep for the tours offered, keep in mind that the money is helping to preserve this treasure. Though you would never catch me in a cemetery at night, especially within a city rich in the Voodoo culture and alive with many superstitions, I was pleasantly surprised at the vast array of prominence laid to rest here. Definitely worth the visit in light of its history!

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St. Louis Cemetery #1

  • https://nolacatholiccemeteries.org/our-history
  • Address: 425 Basin St, New Orleans, LA 70112
  • Hours: 0900-1600, Monday through Saturday and 0900-1100, Sunday (last admittance 1 hour before closing)
  • Admission: $20 for guided tour. Tours last approximately 45 minutes.

House of Horrors

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop

May Baily’s Place

Hotel Provincial

The Monteleone Hotel

The LaLaurie Mansion

It is no big secret that many of the city of New Orleans’ most famous landmarks are shrouded in stories of murder, ghostly appearances and unexplained happenings.

In the 1700s, pirates, outcasts and renegades roamed the streets of the French Quarter and lawlessness prevailed. But, even among the city’s elite, morbid stories can be found in the history books.

Fans of the show, American Horror Story, will recognize the tale of Marie Delphine LaLaurie, the wealthy homeowner who was rumored to have tortured and killed her slaves.

Having seen the third season of the popular television series, I was interested in finding Madame LaLaurie’s former home. Deciding not to book one of the many ghost tours that frequent the location, I set out on my own to find the site which is considered to be one of the most haunted in the city.

Located a few blocks from the Voodoo Museum, the dark grey, stately home looks much like the rest of the architectural gems that grace the streets of the city. But, how many others garner the interest that this one does? Just walk past the two story home at any time of the day and you will understand. Many people congregate in front of the home at all hours, snapping pictures of the mansion on the corner of Royal and Governor Nicholls Streets.

But why?

They could be fans of American Horror Story (although most of the scenes were shot at the Hermann-Grima House on St. Louis Street). It could be that they are hoping to experience some sort of paranormal connection to the spirits that supposedly roam the premises. Or…it could be that as they snap away on the cell phones, they are hoping to capture one of the entities that haunt its halls peeking out its windows at the curiosity seekers.

The mansion’s owner, Marie Delphine LaLaurie, belonged to a wealthy Irish family that managed an extensive real estate portfolio in the Crescent City. To aid in their endeavors, they owned a great many slaves.

Marie Delphine’s first marriage was to Don Ramon de Lopez y Angullo, a high ranking Spanish officer until his death, under mysterious circumstances, in 1884. Marrying Jean Blanque, four years later, they purchased a home at 409 Royal Street and filled it with four daughters (in addition to Marie’s first born child with Angullo). Unfortunately Blanque passed away eight years later, leading to Marie Delphine’s third and final marriage, in 1825, to Leonard Louis Nicolas LaLaurie. It was this marriage that was the beginning of a chain of events that have led to the mansion’s prevailing reputation.

In 1831, Marie Delphine and LaLaurie purchased a new home just down the street where they would reside with two of her children. The marriage was not a happy one and in 1834, LaLaurie moved out of the home.

Marie Delphine was extremely distraught at the departure of her husband and rumors spread that she became a cruel mistress who harmed her slaves and gave no thought to their well-being.

After a young female slave named Leia, fell to her death in the courtyard, Marie Delphine’s remaining slaves were set free following an investigation of the incident. Marie Delphine set about purchasing her slaves back and nothing more was heard for quite some time, from 1140 Royal Street, as she settled into her life as a single woman.

A few years later, when fire destroyed part of the house, it was discovered that Marie Delphine had kept seven slaves chained in the attic…starved and tortured.

As news of the event reached the citizens of the city, they attacked the residence, enraged, calling Marie Delphine a “monster” and a “demon”. Stories began to surface about the condition that some of the slaves were found in…bones broken numerous times and set in unnatural positions, one slave said to have had a hole drilled in their head with a wooden spoon sticking out, another found with their skin peeled back so that muscle and tissue were exposed and yet another said to have had their intestines removed from their body and wrapped around their waist. Others were covered with honey and black ants and many others found dead.

When the home was sold years later, workmen claimed to have found numerous human skeletons beneath the house placed in abnormal positions, barely buried in the soil and many with holes in their skulls. The authorities conducted an investigation and concluded that these skeletons were indeed bodies of some of the former slaves that were thought to be killed in the LaLaurie Mansion.

Many people have debunked the stories that have followed Madame LaLaurie saying that they were the work of unscrupulous news agencies and former neighbors who may have had grievances with her. It is not to say that she may have not been the nicest mistress, as she was once visited by a lawyer, sent by the city, to warn her about the mistreatment of her slaves.

After her departure, however former residence has produced many reports of paranormal activity…moaning coming from a room where the slaves were kept, footsteps and negative energy felt by those in or near the house. There were also reports that a demon terrorized many who lived in the building in the following years, once resulting in the death of one of the residents. When the mansion operated as a girls’ school in the mid-to late nineteenth century, many of the young girls related to their teachers that they had been assaulted, their forearms scratched and bruised. They always described their attacker as “that woman”.

Could the cruel attacker, be the spirit of Madame LaLaurie, the demon or some other vicious entity? Or maybe the slaves that were tortured here returned to repay the malice they received.

Today, nearly two centuries after the horrific fire, the mansion is still viewed as a place of horror. Though many owners have bought and sold the home, no one has remained in the mansion for longer than five years, as it has been viewed as a place that has been cursed, bringing bad luck and devastation to those who reside here.

As I stood in front of this well-kept, historic mansion, I didn’t feel anything strange or see anything that appeared to be supernatural…much to my disappointment, as I believe there is another realm that reaches its creepy fingers out to us in locations that are more susceptible. If you believe in the paranormal, however, seek out this historic residence in the city’s French Quarter. A ghost tour may be more to your liking with their intimate knowledge of this location and many others, however if you venture here on your own, you may be a bit disappointed as there is not much more to see than a grand residence. If you are one of the (lucky?) ones, however, you may get to experience some of the strange occurrences that others have felt outside of the building…pulling on bags and arms, lights illuminating and extinguishing or visions in the windows.

Visit if you dare…

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LaLaurie Mansion

  • Address: 1140 Royal Street
  • Hours: Can be viewed from the street, 24 hours, daily
  • Admission: Private residence, no admittance allowed.


Nine Towers

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

What do you do when you are in Switzerland and have eaten too many Swiss chocolates?

Get some exercise.

You can climb a mountain; Mount Rigis and Mount Pilatus are nearby. If it’s winter, you can ski; downhill or cross country are popular. If you are not keen on going too far, however, you can take a walk uphill from the city center, to the imposing medieval ramparts, the Museggmauer.

The Museggmauer has guarded Lucerne since the 14th century, has withstood the elements and the test of time and now attracts thousands of visitors each year. Well preserved, the wall measures over 2,854 feet in length and almost five feet wide. The height varies depending on the terrain, but averages approximately 27 feet. The wall has nine gates that are still intact, with four open to the public and a large part of the wall is navigable.

I must confess, I had made a note, while doing research on Lucerne, that this was something important to see, however, I wasn’t quite sure what it is that we were going to see…besides a wall which has been described as the defining line between city and country. We headed uphill until we reached the Museggmauer, admiring its impressive length and stature.

Spying a stairway up into one of the towers, the Schirmerturm, we decided to make the climb to see what it contained. The first towers, Dachliturm, Allenwindenturm, Pulverturm, to the east of Schirmerturm, are still standing, although at the time, I had understood that no access to the wall or towers is allowed past Schirmerturm. There wasn’t much to see inside the tower, but we peered out from the windows and admired views of the city. Realizing that we could walk outside the tower, we discovered a walkway on top of the wall leading to the other towers to the west. What I later learned was that although we weren’t able to walk along the top of the tower wall to the eastern towers, the towers are accessible, each offering information on the Wey-Guild, the Vereinigung Luzerner Maskenfreunde (VLM), Club of Luzern Mask, the Tambouren Club and the Luzern Carpenters Union.

Schirmerturm

The Zytturm was next along the wall and contains the oldest clock in Lucerne. Constructed by Hans Luter in 1535, the clock chimes one minute before any other clock in the city. Despite the main clock’s maturity, the stone weights and pendulum still keep time precisely. We were able to move throughout the tower and see the inner workings of the timepiece as well as examine the exhibition of historic clocks dating from between the late Middle Ages and the 20th century.

Zytturm

The third tower open to the public is the Wachturm or the Watch Tower. The tower that stood here originally, the Heuturm, was destroyed in 1701 when lightening struck the tower, igniting the gunpowder stored within. The explosion damaged the adjacent wall, houses in town and five people were killed. The Watchtower was built immediately after the disaster, but only given its name in 1768, when the guard room was moved from the Luegislandegg to this one. Today, you can glean information from the ornithologic society about the live birds around the Museggmauer and the protection of bats in the district of Lucerne.

Wachturm

Passing the Lugislandturm, we continued on our way to the final tower open to the public, the Mannliturm. Of the four accessible towers, this was my favorite. Making our way up the 138 steps to the top, we discovered the statue of a little soldier (Mannli) which sits atop one of the two spires and is quite famous throughout Switzerland. It was here, from this ancient tower built in 1327, that we had the best views of the city, the surrounding mountains and the sparkling lake.

Lugislandturm
Mannliturm

Exiting the Mannliturm, we were able to observe the last tower on the wall, the Nolliturm from the outside while on our way back into town.

Nolliturm

The Museggmauer is truly one of the gems of Lucerne. With its free admission and rich history, it is something not to be missed, especially for its birds’ eye views of the beautiful Swiss city.

Make the climb.

Take the walk.

Enjoy the nine towers.

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Museggmauer

  • https://www.museggmauer.ch/
  • Address: Christine Zemp Gsponer, Schwanenplatz 4, 6004 Luzern
  • Hours: 0800-1900, April 2 until November 1
  • Admission: free

A Cross Across The River

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Walking along the River Reuss, between the ancient bridges that traverse the waterway, I looked over…

and spied a cross across the river…topping a church.

The Jesuit church, with its recognizable onion domed bell-towers, governs the left bank of the river. The first Baroque church built in Switzerland, it is also considered to be one of the most beautiful. Designed by Italian and Austrian architects, under the guidance of Jesuit Father Christoph Vogler, construction began in 1666 and the church was consecrated a short eleven years later. Though the interior was still lacking, the shell and main facade were completed. Upon the time of consecration, several side altars were still missing as well as the high altar and the towers were finally completed in 1893.

A major tourist attraction, I anticipated seeing throngs of people entering and exiting the building, however, all was quiet in front of the church, leading me to expect to find the doors locked. Surprisingly, I found them open and made my way into the beautiful interior.

When in Lucerne, it is best to cross the river and view the church from the other side of the river to admire the simplistic nature of its facade. As you enter, however, make sure to reexamine the facade from a closer perspective. It is over the entrance door where you can find the beautifully carved statue of the Jesuit missionary Saint Francis Xavier, the patron saint of the church.

Inside the church it is light and airy with gray and rose colored relief decorations embellishing the white interior. The nave, leading to the altar, displays a decorated vaulted ceiling depicting the glory of Saint Francis Xavier. At the front of the church is a grand altar-piece made of pink marble…or so you think. Upon closer inspection, you realize that it is actually made of plaster and stucco, a process perfected in the southern Alps where marble is difficult to transport.

As I turned to gaze back at the way that I came, I was able to see the main Metzler organ, built from 1980-1982, with parts from an organ dating back to the 18th century. This organ is frequently used for recitals held in the church.

Enjoying the side chapels, the most interesting I discovered is dedicated to Brother Klaus, a famous Swiss patron, whose life-sized statue stands clothed in a brown monk’s habit.

While the church no longer provides an important religious life, with the adjacent monastery college being abandoned, it does provide tourists with a destination within the Alstadt and both locals and visitors with a magnificent concert venue which comes alive with the sensational acoustics.

If you are in the mood to pray, reflect or admire…check out the Jesuit Church in Lucerne, one of its architectural gems.

Jesuitenkirche St. Franz-Xavier

Cross That Bridge When You Come To It!

© 2019 Snapping the Globe, L.L.C. All rights reserved.

Train travel in Switzerland is easy.

Efficient and far-reaching, it’s easy to go out and explore all that the country has to offer.

Having recently gotten a taste of venturing out to another city in Switzerland, I was ready for more! So…it was off to the train station to see what else I could discover.

The winner on this particular day?

Lucerne. Located only an hour from Zurich, it is an easy trip, albeit expensive, for the short time I had to spend there. The small city is known for its preserved medieval architecture, imposing mountains and beautiful Lake Lucerne.

History, architecture and nature! I couldn’t wait!

As we arrived at the modern train station, we anxiously peeked out in hopes that the blues skies that had been promised in the forecast were visible above.

No such luck.

A cool afternoon, it was quite overcast, the dim gray skies exaggerated by the dwindling light of the approaching winter season, yet, we anxiously ventured out, eager to see what the city would present.

When I had researched the Swiss city, the picture that I came across most often was of the beautiful bridges that span the River Reuss in the colorful Alstadt (Old Town).

This is what I most wanted to see and as luck would have it, they were extremely close to the station.

A quick two minute walk, past the archway (welcoming us to Lucerne) and a festive carousel brought us to the river. Just like in the pictures, here it was…the Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge)! I was aware that the bridge was beautiful from its exterior, yet when we set foot inside, I found out that so much more was to be discovered.

The 17th century, covered, diagonal footbridge links the Aldstadt to the Reuss River’s right bank. Destroyed by fire in 1993, it has been restored to it original beauty and is the oldest wooden, covered, truss bridge in Europe.

Named after St. Peter’s Chapel, located nearby, the bridge gives off the feeling of an ancient church, with its dark wood structure and ancient wood paneled paintings. These paintings, dating back to the 17th century, were created by local Catholic painter, Hans Heinrich Wägmann, during the Counter-Reformation. Though most of the originals, depicting events from Lucerne’s history, were destroyed in the devastating fire, about 30 were fully restored and command your full attention, sometimes requiring you to step to the side to allow those traversing the walkway to pass, while you spend a few moments studying each panel. These panels display the life and death of Lucerne’s patron saints, St. Leger and St. Maurice.

Also part of the bridge complex is the Wasserturm, or water tower, which stands proudly in the waters of the Reuss. Built about 30 years before the bridge’s construction, the tower has served as a prison, torture chamber and a municipal archive. Today, the tower houses a local artillery association and a tourist gift shop, however, it does not host visitors, except those seeking Swiss mementos.

Truly the symbol of Lucerne, I was awe-struck by the Kapellbrücke’s grand beauty, enhanced by the bright pink flowers that line its periphery. Once we crossed the bridge, assisted some beautiful young Japanese travelers with memorable photos and grabbed a quick beer in the nearby pub, it was time to head up the river to the other venerable structure which crossses Lake Lucerne’s tributary.

Linking the left and right banks of the River Reuss is the Spreuerbrücke. The Spreuerbrücke, or Spreuer Bridge, earning its name from the chaffs of wheat which were thrown in the river here, dates back to 1408 and was part of the city’s fortification. The bridge was constructed to connect the Mühlenplatz (Mill Place) on the right bank with the mills in the middle of the river.

From 1626 and for the next nine years, Kaspar Meglinger decorated the triangular panels in the bridge with 67 paintings that represent the Danse Macabre, leading everyone to understand that death is everywhere. Forty-five of the originals are still in existence today and contain the coat of arms of the donor in the lower left corner and coat of arms of the donor’s wife in the right. These paintings also contain portraits of the donors and explanations and the names of the donors.

Not the original bridge, the Spreüerbrucke was destroyed in 1566 by floodwaters but rebuilt with an added grain storehouse as the bridge head called the Herrenkeller. A small chapel can also be found in the middle of the bridge, a spot also marked with a crucifix mounted on the outside of the structure.

After crossing the Spreüerbrucke, though we wandered alongside the river, the third bridge was not to be found…the Hofbrücke, which once existed, was demolished in the 19th century.

Life in Lucerne revolves around its proximity to water as is evident by the Old Town’s location on the river’s banks. It’s easy to spend time perusing the historic homes, embellished with frescoes, that line the waterfront, browsing the watch and souvenir shops or dining at one of the many restaurants while watching joggers run by and swans glide gracefully in the clear, glacial water.

Though there was much more to explore in lovely Lucerne, I was glad that we had started with the bridges, the symbols of the city. Yet, our day wasn’t over. We had so much more to discover!

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Kapellbrücke

  • Address: Kapellbrücke, 6002 Luzern, Switzerland
  • Hours: 24 hours a day, 7 days a week
  • Admission: free

Spreuer Bridge

  • Address: 6004 Lucerne, Switzerland
  • Hours: 24 hours a day, 7 days a week
  • Admission: free